Tesla Wall Connector Gen 3 - DIY Install Tips Tricks Secrets 2020
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 มิ.ย. 2024
- Tesla Wall Charger Gen 3 - Level 2 EV Charger DIY Tips Tricks and Secrets Revealed.
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Save money and easy install a new Tesla Wall Charger yourself. This is an instructional video How-To tutorial on installing the new 2020 Wifi Tesla Wall Charger Gen 3 Level 2 charging at home. It can be used to charge your Model S, Model X, Model 3, or Model Y in your garage.
We go over the electrical differences in choosing between the Tesla Gen 3 Wall Charger, the CMC (Corded Mobile Connector), and the Tesla UMC (Gen 2 Mobile Connector), the differences in charging rates of installing a Tesla Wall Charger vs NEMA 14-50 receptacle, and how fast you can expect to charge your vehicle by the Tesla Wall Charger vs Tesla Mobile Charger.
This video is intended to discuss a technical overview of core concepts, and with the new knowledge, instilling confidence for someone with little experience doing electrical work, to install your own Tesla Wall Connector or NEMA 14-50 adapter to provide you with Level 2 EV fast charging at home with just some basic supplies and tools available at Amazon or most big box home improvement stores, like Home Depot or Lowes. Whether you need a Model 3 charger or a Model Y charger, this video has got you covered.
Link to Tesla Wall Connector Gen 3 Manual:
www.tesla.com/sites/default/f...
Help to support the channel, at no cost to you, by using our Amazon Affiliate links to the products used in this video:
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This was an amazing explanation. You’re like Bob Villa and Bill Nye the science guy put together
Thank you very much for your kind assertion! Never thought about it that way before, but I can see where the juxtaposition of functional tradesman meets scientific theory in practice is very applicable. Glad you enjoyed it!
Yeah was like hypnotizing wth did I just watch
We’ll done review, deep knowledge, quality electrical information, really really good explanation and review
Exactly right! Thorough and efficient.
WRONG...IT WAS A Terrible USELESS VIDEO
I rarely if every comment on videos, but this was the absolute best explanation on wiring the Tesla connector as well as explaining the generals between ground bars, neutral and the legs of power. Thank you.
Glad you liked it! Let us know if you have any questions on it or any other topics you would like to see covered in new videos.
Wow, this is far and away the BEST video I've seen on this topic. I've seen much longer videos that ramble on and on without saying much. This one is spot on: concise and well-organized, with all the info we need. Thanks!
Thank you for the compliment, Ron. That was precisely why I made it that way: give the most usable information in the shortest possible time. I’m glad you found it valuable!
I had a short run, only 12 foot, I ran the individual 4 AWG wires, Red, Black, Green in 1" non-metallic conduit, did not have to wrestle with the wire, more relaxed. Since the Gen 3 already comes with a 24' lead the length was sufficient for both our cars. Great video.
I wish more people see this! This was well explained.
Game changer! Thank you for taking the time break this down, so we can make an informed decision.
If elected, I will pass a law that ALL instruction videos be like this one.
Great job! Thanks for posting.
Thanks for the kind words! Glad it was helpful.
For those watching today - you cannot use 6 gauge 6/3 NMB Romex with a 60A breaker - THIS IS NOT TO CODE. However, 6/3 NMB Romex with a 50A breaker = to code (just set the Tesla V3 wall charger to 40A charging when commissioning and that is a safe setup that meets code).
Unfortunately for me, 7 months ago I watched this video, ran out and bought a long (75ft) run of 6/3 NMB Romex and a 60A breaker thinking I could use the Tesla V3 Wall Charger's full 48A capability and learned AFTER my install that this combination was NOT to code. All was not lost - after learning this, I swapped the 60A breaker for a 50A breaker and set the V3 Tesla wall charger to 40A charge rate which is safe, to code and works really well. If you want to get the V3 Wall Charger's max charge rate (48A), you will need a 60A breaker - paired with conduit and THHN 6 gauge or MC 6 gauge or 4 gauge Romex.
This is a GREAT video and it helped me a LOT but the suggested use of 6/3 Romex and a 60A breaker is not to code unfortunately. I found this out after I purchased the materials and ran the cable.
This is so correct. I almost bought 6/3 nm wire and swapped for THHN 6 gauge for conductors and a 10 gauge for ground. It’s cheaper + I don’t have to run that neutral wire. This is good because it saves room in the 3/4 in conduit. I believe code is no more that 53% of space can be filed by wire. I also believe the THHN wire can handle 75 amps @ 90 degrees
Yes. Also, 6/2 MC is rated for 75A at 90deg. Metal clad sheds heat better and thus rates a higher ampacity than NM.
PERFECT PERFECT PERFECT consolidation of all necessary knowledge for this in one place. Thanks so much !!!
This is the best wall charger installation video I’ve seen. Thank you for this! -Trav (2021 Model S ordered) :)
You are quite welcome! Glad you found it helpful.
I just found your video to install my Tesla charger.. very good explanation of ground wire & neutral wire on seperate sub panel. Thank you!!
Great video !! Clear concise explanation and reasonings behind each choices
Great job I learn a lot from your video thank you
You are welcome! If you want to see any specific topics covered in a future video let us know.
Best video, straight to the point .
Excellent video with references to best practices and code standards as well as electrical theory. Thank you. 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Great video with clear explanations!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video! Thanks a lot.
You are welcome! Glad you liked it.
After hours and dozens of vids looking for info that I need, this was the most informative. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment! Glad you found it useful.
Since this video was uploaded, 3 key takeaways to heed have emerged: 1) #6 Wire in conduit is allowed for 60A installs, but NM-B is down-rated to 60C category (despite mine was rated for 75C at the time), which puts it at 55A rating, so either choose a different #6 wire + conduit or use #4 wire.; 2) There was never a reason for my having used 6/3 at the time other than availability (lack of 6/2 the day I decided to do the install, I didn’t need the white common for anything in the circuit) ; 6/2 (or 4/2, depending on your situation) is the way to go); 3:). Using the White wire as a ground and then tagging it with Green electrical tape to signify its use as Ground has proven to be unnecessary and debate for far too much confusion than it has been worth. Just use the bare copper that the 6/2 (or 4/2) comes with, or in a conduit run with separate conductor pulls, use the green cladding, as is standard, to avoid any confusion. The two most often issues people have run into have been not being mindful of the length of wire required from their load center/breaker panel to the HPWC and that the longer the run, the more resistance, and therefore more robust wiring required, and spend the money on a proper torque wrench for securing the wires down to the terminal block on the HPWC end and the other end to the breaker lugs on the other end, to the proper spec in-lbs. Enjoy many years of great service. Mine is still working flawlessly 2.5 years later. Cheers.
@@TeslaTechChannel Thanks for this again. I'm planning on wiring the charger from my electrical panel, which is outside my garage, through to the direct opposite side of the wall. So i'll just be using Romex 6/2. Not sure if i'll be needing conduit as the wiring will be in between the wall and I believe conduit is not needed (locally at least). Would you suggest running conduit anyways? Since it will be a 60A install but ofc not using 60A as the Tesla will only be drawing a maximum of 48A.
I HAVE NO DAMN IDEA WHAT HE WAS TALKING ABOUT MOST OF THE VIDEO
BUT THE FACT THAT I AM GOING TO PURCHASE A TESLA AND GET A TESLA CHARGER AS WELL MADE ME LEARN ALOT
CAN WE GIVE THIS MAN A HELL YEAHHH!!!!
Thanks for watching. Hope you got something useful from it!
Best Installation video. Precise and to the point.
Glad it helped
Thank you. Followed all your steps and I was able to install my wall connector successfully first attempt.
Glad it helped
Excellent video. Thank you
Thank you for the kind comment!
Thank you!!!
Thank you for sharing your experience- it helped with my install!
Glad it helped!! Congrats.
This answered all of my questions. Thank you. Every other video shows it already installed leaving you with why or how, and still no answers
Best video for electric knowledge
Easily the best video describing in detail what needs to be done. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment. You are quite welcome, Brian!
@@TeslaTechChannel I am currently setting up to wire and using #6/2 w/ground because I have. Do you think this is ok with leaving the ground bare on on the bus bar?
@@briansteege5303 Absolutely! The Wall Connector only requires 2 hots and a ground. The only reason I did 6/3 was because I couldn't readily find 4/2, 4/3 or 6/2. Because I had the extra 6AWG white wire left over unused, and because white normally = neutral AND neutrals and grounds are tied together in the main load center, there was no risk in using the tihicker 6AWG white wire for the ground instead of the bare 10 AWG. Ideally, you would want to use 4/2 (+ bare ground) for the install. I have looked for 4/2 from both Cerrowire and Southwire. Neither of them manufacture it. I would to either have to buy 4/3 online or buy a 100 foot spool of it locally, which was cost prohibitive. Because of the short run and ambient temps where I live + the fact that the NEC allows for 100% of sustained load when using current-regulated devices (both the Wall COnnector and the Tesla's Charging module regulate 48A charging) so therefore the 55 amp rating of 6AWG NM-B meets that requirement. That said, if your run is long (mine was only 10 cable feet) and/or you live in a hot climate, use the 4 AWG instead. But otherwise, YES you will be fine with 6/2 wire. Just remember that the bare ground on 6/2 is only 10 AWG and therefore will fit differently in the Wall Connector's terminal blocks. Best of luck!
Do you think a 50 AMP Breaker could work temporarily?
@@briansteege5303 I assume you are saying that, based on still using the 6/2 wire. That said, only if you also provision the Wall Connector as being connected to a 50A breaker, which will provide max 40A charging. That would be ok. Frankly, there is nothing wrong with choosing to install it that way permanently either. It will just take a little longer to charge. Some people need to do that because of not having sufficient power to their load center to handle the combined load in the rest of the circuits in the house PLUS the additional 48A constant load , and have to throttle it back to stay within the capabilities of the service feeder to their house..
What I would NOT do is to provision the WC as 60A in an attempt to hack charging at 48A and connect it to a 50A breaker. It would be unsafe, and could possibly ruin your WC, and would most likely trip the breaker upon trying to charge at 48A anyways.
Very clear video - concise and most understandable, especially for the person trying to understand the charging options, and benefits of each. I'm in research mode for possible Model 3 purchase, and this is very helpful. I agree with your choice to go with the Gen 3 wall connector - for $165 more, get the better solution.
Thanks. I’m glad it was of value to you.
before you buy do research how much will battery change cost you.
Absolutely first rate! Thanks for the detailed explanation and rationale behind the decisions you made in this installation.
Thanks for the compliment! Glad you enjoyed it and were able to benefit from it.
Great job, thank you! I especially liked the color-coded wiring diagram at 6:22 that shows how to properly ground and / or bond a main and / or secondary panel. I did a screen grab of that and saved it - very helpful!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you...Very good informative video
Glad it was helpful!
Man this video was great. Well done
Appreciate it!
Great video. Very helpful
Thanks Paul
Thanks
thanks
Thank you
Welcome
Nice video!
very nice instruction!
Glad it was helpful!
Amazing Explanation 👏
Thank you 🙂
Awesome video!
Thanks!
You gave me "Home Improvement" vibes. Specifically, The neighbor Mr. Wilson lol. Great video btw
Hahaha. Thanks!
So well done! There are too many “instructional videos” out there that don’t explain adequately the project one is attempting but this was excellent. This is my first time ever commenting on a TH-cam video. Make more videos, please.
The Internet desperately needs more quality content like yours to be promoted over all the garbage people post.
Thank you for your kind words. I’m glad you found it useful.
One of the best explanations of any topic ever covered on TH-cam. Thank you!
Wow, thanks! Glad you found it helpful.
Just did a WC install today. Used 25' of TTHN #4 and TTHN #8 ground (90c rated). Cost difference between #6 and #4 was .25 per foot. Not worth the $25 to have an upgrade path and lower fire risk; plus the #4 can be retrofitted w/ a sub-panel at some point and two wall connectors can be used at 30-38a each. The #4 90c rated wire can handle up to 95a; or 76a on a continuous load like EV charging.
I too RARELY comment on videos but dude! VERY well done!!! Wife and I are going to test drive a model Y this weekend. Never had electric car before.
Hey Steve, thanks for the very kind comment!! Neither had I until my Model Y. Word of warning in advance: the instant acceleration/torque, it should almost be called "thrust", is VERY addicting and feels like a tubular roller coaster or a smaller engined private jet taking off; because of the low center of gravity it handles very well, not quite Porsche well, but well nonetheless; the electricity cost in most parts of the US are much cheaper than gas (costs me roughly $8 to "fill-up" compared to low $30s for my other cars. You rarely need to use (and therefore replace) brakes if you select to use full regen capabilities to take advantage of one-pedal driving (which only takes about a week to get used to, and then you will wonder why all cars don't have this). The Tesla-branded Brembo brakes on the Performance stop on a dime and give you back a nickel should you need to use them during more spirited driving. It has also been an unanticipated relief to have a nearly "full tank" every morning. I say nearly because you shouldn't charge Li-Ion batteries over 90% for battery-pack longevity/health unless you are going to immediately drive the vehicle or going on a long trip in a few hours/next morning and need the added range to get to the next charger. Superchargers are $0.25 a kW but charge your car at 7x-10x faster than even the 48A home charger. Takes only 30 mins to "fill-up" and the car has some decent games to play or you can watch Netflix, Hulu, or TH-cam while waiting. I thought it would suck to wait for supercharging, but it doesn't seem as long as it sounds. For my other gas-powered vehicles sometimes I am waiting in a line at Costco or Sams for 10 minutes to get to the pump and another 5 to fill, so it really isn't as bad as I expected. Of course just plugging it in at home is the most convenient of all. Also, sometimes I use the J1772 adapter the car came with and get free "gas" while at a shopping center or restaurant on those Volta chargers that have TV ads running on them, abeit it charges at a slower 7kW (32Amp/208v) vs the 11.5kW you get from the Tesla HPWC v3 at home (48A/240v), but its free and you are there anyways.
I have been following Tesla since they had the original roadster (Lotus Elise conversion) and announced Model S. I test drove the first year Model S (P75D, I think) and was amazed, but couldn't reconcile the $120k price tag back then. Now that Teslas have stood the test of time and I know they are not going under, and now that one can be purchased in the 50s and 60s (and even less for a Model 3) . When the Model 3 came out I was interested, but at a husky 6'5" it was still too tight for me to get in and out of daily. Once the Model Y launch happened and I finally sat in one of the first ones off the assembly line, to me it was a no brainer at that point and finally came time to make it happen. I sold my Stage 1 Cobb-tuned Subi WRX and my Stage 1 Porsche Macan GTS earlier this summer and bought this in their place. After my initially having to reject 2 early Y's with defects, 3rd time was a charm and now after just over a month of ownership, I don't regret it one bit. Yeah, it's all that and a bag of chips...and in full disclosure, I don't think of myself as a save-the-planet eco-activist Tesla fanboi type. Sure if I can reduce pollution along the way, great. I just appreciate innovative engineering, quality craftsmanship (the paintjobs all suck BTW. Blue and Black seem to be the least problematic. Hence why I rejected the first 2 orders that were white, and ended up going with blue). No more oil changes, transmission issues, ignition tune-ups, valve jobs. I digress,
I friggin' love it so far!! I know you will too. Enjoy the flight ....err, drive. Comment back and lemmie know what you think. Also, if there are other video topics you would like to see, leave a suggestion for a new video and I'll see what I can do to accommodate. Thanks again!
@@TeslaTechChannel Well buddy...The wife and I LOVED the model Y and ordered one when we got home last Saturday!! I have a 2016 Challenger 392 scat pack shaker that I have had for about a year and a half. It was the fastest car off the line I ever drove......until Saturday! hahaha WOW That model Y was absolutely AMAZING. What was even more amazing is the trade in that Tesla gave me for that car! I have always heard that they are crazy cheap on trades so I wasn't even going to get rid of the Dodge. With what they offered me PLUS adding the savings in sales tax it was a no brainer. It was only 1500K less than what I paid for the car 1 year and a half ago. BTW I am 6-1 350lbs so I wasn't expecting a comfortable ride and ease of getting in and out....I was WRONG. Its no different than getting in my F150! The wife and I are making a youtube journey series from "Well we are going to drive a Tesla but we are not sure if we will even like it" to the first drive on the way home however long that may be. I cant think of ever being this pumped about getting a new car EVER! We got the Long range with FSD since I got the deal on the dodge. I will send you an informal link from another youtube account ( unedited just to send to friends on our test drive) My wife was PETRIFIED on the FSD! HAHAHA
@@TeslaTechChannel th-cam.com/video/UQyiCKDFpGU/w-d-xo.html
@@TeslaTechChannel th-cam.com/video/2cRC9O7NNGg/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the follow-up, Steve! I enjoyed watching your and Angie's first drive. I am in the same boat as you being a big guy at 6'5" 320 and I too was amazed at how well I fit. Extra truck: Tundra instead of an F150, but same idea.
You can't really blame Angie for being reluctant about autopilot. I too, despite being prepared for using it, still having to learn to trust it happens in increments.
I did the Performance, but without the FSD. I thought about getting it, but at $8000 when I ordered it, now $10,000, I didn't see the value for the way I normally like to drive.
I hope you used someones Tesla referral code (mine (ts.la/jon30517) or a friend or family member) when you ordered so you, and whomever's code you used, both get 1000 miles of supercharging credited to your Tesla account. If not, call Tesla and they should be able to add it to your order. Congrats on the great deal! I'm looking forward to seeing your future vids.
This is the most ridiculously helpful video on the Tesla wall charger on TH-cam. Unreal, how good this video is.
How far can the main panel be from the wall charger?
Thanks for the compliment. Glad you found it helpful! I tried to add the most usable value in the shortest video possible.
As for your question: there is not really a limit to length for the distance you can do, per se. It is more of a question of, what gauge wiring do you need to use to accomodate 60 amps of current at X number of cable feet. That said, you would just have to up the thickness of the wiring gauge (thicker = lower number) to account for additional resistance per foot of wire, which translates to heat. There is a wiring thickness chart at 10:17 in the video that shows you what gauge it should be based on how many feet in the run. To run the 60Amp breaker service, just follow the rightmost column. HTH.
@@TeslaTechChannel
sorry: It's not so easy, your electrical code may require additional protection on longer cables.
This unit has a PEN-fault device unlike the GEN2-charger?
Talk with your
electrician! Zappy or another charger might be a better or cheaper soulution in your case
(PEN-fault, power sharing in you subpanal, .... ,no need to upgrade your house connection) but the tesla charger may be fine in special cases.
th-cam.com/video/ztc7-q2n53w/w-d-xo.html
The longer the cable the more diffential you may get in ground potential and this might be lethal. Sorry!
This is a 48A unit and you need 1/2 of you 100A panel reserved for this at all times. Other chargers may use only what is left from your 100A panal. The care stops charging if you want to example shower (the tesla charger stops charging too as you whole main breaker flips) and restart afterwards.
Thank you so much for this video, Sir! This is probably THE BEST explanation video i've ever seen for the Tesla Wall Connector.
Glad you got some value from it.
I did my install like this but I installed the wire and breaker in the panel last instead of first like you did. I didn't bother shutting off the main breaker either, really no need to just make sure the 60 amp breaker is off, push it on the buss bars and turn on the breaker as the very last step of the install. Not saying your way is wrong but just seems like its better to do the other end before installing the breaker or messing with the panel in anyway since its not needed until everything else is installed properly anyway.
I bought my Tesla wall charger off of a guy on CL for $375 brand new in the box. I stumbled onto the add looking for something else, just got lucky.
Also got a Tesla M3 indoor car cover for an extra $125 from him I didn't even know existed until I got there to look at the wall charger, walked out with both for $450.
Yep, this video covered a lot of material that other videos failed to mention. My Tesla Sales Advisor stated the WC could support 80 amps. I now know that he was referring to the Ver 2 WC. And I liked your explanation of using the white wire on ground bus bar.
I'm probably going to get some 6/3 romex. I was thinking of getting 3/2 but the wires are white and black, which would have made the install confusing to an electrician in the future and potentially unsafe. 6/3 also allows me the freedom of removing my WC and adding a 14-50 plug in the future if I move and take my WC with me. And there is plenty of space inside the WC to coil up the extra unused white wire.
You can do the 6/3 if it is a short run. If it is long I would suggest 4/3. Thanks for the compliment!
@@TeslaTechChannel I reread my comment and I meant to say I was thinking of using 6/2 wire and just using the white wire as a powered second leg. But I'll use the 6/3 and just tuck in the white wire in the box. The potential safety risk isn't worth the minor savings on the wire. My total run is 25 feet of wire.
Romex 6/3? What’s the max amp?
@@familyyyle7643 48 amps at 240 volts
I know this is late (2 years), but 6 AWG romex is only rated at 55 amps @60C, and therefore should not be used on a 60 amp breaker. Tesla specifies 90C rated wire. Save your self the risk and use MC cable, 6/2 MC is rated for 75 amps @90C because the individual conductors are THHN.
I agree that a GFCI is not needed for permanent installations- the code as I read it is only for RECEPTACLES:
625.54 Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Personnel. All single-phase
receptacles installed for the connection of electric vehicle charging that are rated 150 volts to ground or less, and 50 amperes or less shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel.
Informative video. Does the corded mobile connector charge at the same amps as the mobile connector with the 1450 plug? I saw somewhere else that it charges faster.
Thanks, and great question! The CMC can charge at up to the full 80% of the 240VAC 50Amp Circuit, which is 40 Amps. The UMC v2 (Mobile Connector) is limited to 32A by a regulator in the circuitry of the UMC's box. So technically speaking, the CMC does charge faster by 8 Amps. There is a charging chart at the end of the video you might want to check out which gives all the charging times based on charging rate. Let us know if you have any more questions about this, or feel free to suggest topics for future videos by replying to this comment. Hope that helps!
I love this very informative video. Would you be able to explain how to route six gauge cable from basement to garage we have a basement panel right below the entrance from garage to laundry room very short distance.
If it is a long run, like from a basement to a garage I would recommend going with 4 AWG. As was pointed out in the video, I only used 6 AWG because the run from the breaker box to the HPWC was a foot away. Logic is that the longer distance cable the more resistance there is and in order to properly run a contant load at higher amperage you need to up-size to the next larger.
The NM sheathed cable conductors are only rated for 55 amps. NEC article 625 requires 125% of the rated load of the charger which is 48 amps so 48 x 125% is 60 amps. So right out of the gate you're looking at conductors that will be overloaded and certainly don't meed the NEC requirements. The EVC is a continuous load, thus the reason for the 125% increase.
Seems you have this down pat but I will have to watch more than once to get it down like you. Looking forward to my first Tesla soon.
Feel free to leave and questions you might have. Also, I suggest looking through the comments as some people have posed some good questions, for things that I either didn't think to mention in the video or simply could not cover every variable for every possible scenario.
Thanks for the feedback. I am hoping to have our Model Y Performance soon too. I had to reject the first one and the second one is now here a month later with issues that need to be sorted. Hopefully, I won't have to reject that too.
I appreciate your detailed answer on the wire size and ambient temp. I have a Gen 3 wall charger that will be 150 ft from my main load panel and the wire will be in the attic in Texas temperatures. I was planning on running 4/3 but with the ambient adjustment not sure that is even enough. Suggestions?
That is quite a long run. You will want to research the wire gauge and the conductor standard to use for your application. NM doesn't sound fit for your particular case.
I have a question about Daisy chaining. I am planning to add an additional GEN three wall connector. Is it necessary to hardwire the communication or can they communicate wirelessly?
Caution on the standard 14-50R, do not cheap on the HD one and make sure to get an “Industrial” 14-50 such as the one from Hubbell as Tesla recommends.
Agreed 100% - I didn't go over that, as this video was specifically for the HPWC v3 and not a 14-50 plug. But I completely concur on the selection of a commercial higher duty-cycle 14-50R, not the cheapie at HD.
If you're using ROMEX you HAVE to get a size larger to account for the thermal increase from the extra insulation of the wire jacketing. You should change out your wiring to ROMEX 4g or THHN 6ga for a 60amp circuit. Overloading the ampacity could cause a fire.
Truth is, 1.5 years later my install still works perfectly....and I have tested it in the peak heat of the summer under sustained 48A load and checked all parts from end to end with my FLIR camera and it isn't even coming close to 60C. NOW, putting on my 1-size-fits-all hat for safety since I cannot account for all factors involved, much like the NEC has to account for, then absolutely -- 4/2 all the way! That, correcting the UMC firmware limit of 32A load, and the not showing phase taping green of the repurposed neutral as ground (or just using the conventional bare copper instead) have been the two biggest corrections I would make if I had to redo this video again. I have been fortunate to get some great feedback from the video, yours included, over the last 1.5 years on the video. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
Not really because tesla regulates it so it doesn't go passed 48 Amps
@@orestracki6617 and number 6 romex is only rated for 55 amps not 60 hence the reason he needs to upsize his wire to be code compliant. You have to rate the wire and breaker at 125% of the 48 amps which is why you have to use a bigger wire or run it in pipe and use thhn .
@@orestracki6617 You never wire a house based on a specific load device. 100 years from now, someone could install something else on that circuit and cause a fire since the wire could melt before it trips the breaker.
@@orestracki6617 What Tesla says and does, does not supersede NEC's requirements. When the wire is only rated at 55 amps and the breaker is 60 amps, the wire becomes the fuse. An inspector will fail it.
Going with the 4-3 wire for mine with a 60 amp breaker. Going to try and run the wire in an insulated wall. I’m going to come out of the side of the panel, through a stud and over one stud bay and mount the charger. Wish me luck!
Pardon the delayed response. If you have yet to do the install, I recommend going with 4/2. HTH
I was going to use the white as a ground also but my neighbor who is an AC installer said not to and to just use the bare ground wire as that is how the wires are designed and like you said someone may get confused to the white wire so I did it his way even through I would have done it like you did had he not talked me out of it.
7:55 According to the Tesla Gen3 Connector manual, you should not put it on a GFCI circuit because it already has one that checks for ground and retries 4 times on fault after 10 seconds.
Correct. I said as much. My comment at 7:55 was for if you have an SR+, which can’t handle more than 32A charging, to forego the HPWC and just install a 14-50 on a GFCI and buy the adapter for the UMC instead. The GFCI was not suggested for theHPWC. In fact, if you go back and watch 1:22 thru 1:47, I articulate about the exact matter you mention. Thanks for watching!
Question, my electric box is in my basement. Do I need conduit lines to cover my wire in the basement or can I just run the 6gauge line straight to the box? In my garage I do plan to run conduit.
This is a great video!
there is some miss information at 4:57 in regards to Allowable Ampacities of Insulated Conductors. In the NEC 310.16 for 6 AWG Wire there are three columns. 55 amps for the 60° column 65 A for the 75° and 75 A for the 90° column. So the actual wire itself is capable of handling 75 Amps. The problem lies within what degree rating the equipment That is feeding the wire is rated at. The breaker in this instance which is rated at 75° determines what column to use. So in this scenario # 6 AWG is good for 65 A. If all the equipment including the wire was rated at 90° that would change the game. Not all parts are created equal..;-)
6 gauge Romex is rated at 55 amps. It is not the same rating as 6 gauge thhn which is rated at 65 amps.
Great Video! How would you wire/connect a second Gen 3 Wall Charger and utilize the Power Sharing capability enabled through WiFi??? This approach utilizes your first Gen 3 as the "Leader" unit and the second Gen 3 as the "Follower" unit.
Great question. I frankly, don’t know the answer. When I installed this last year the sharing wasn’t functional at that time. Since I only have one charger, I haven’t had the need to research it.
I love how you showed absolutely everything from load charts to how to wire the panel up... But not actually how you connected the charger itself.
I suppose you are right. I assumed people attempting this would know at least basic things such as screwing down terminals to wires. I can see how it would have been more thorough, but the video is already quite long as it is. That is why I focused on the less obvious things. Thanks for the comment!
. NEC 240.4 (B)(2) conductors dose not correspond with STANDARD AMPERE RATING of a fuse or breaker can go to next breaker size (not over 800 amp). 55 amp is not standard breaker size , so 60 amp breaker is totally legit for 55amp rated wire for Tesla.
Going to have someone install this hopefully next week. If anyone out there knows, I have also a 2013 Toyota RAV4 EV. The one where Tesla and Toyota did a partnership. I'm hoping to use the wall connector to charge my RAV4 EV with Lectron adaptor and my Model S. Would there be any way to make sure it works well and can switch to legacy mode or something? No-ICE.
This video is very is very helpful for installing the Tesla Gen 3 wall connector. I do have a question for you though... my electrician used a 60 amp breaker and installed the connector just like your video instruction. However, I’m receiving the 3 flashing red lights which indicate it’s running hot. Have you seen this issue or no how to problem solve this? Based on this being installed correctly I’m thinking it might just be a defected connector. Thoughts? Thanks so much!!
Uh oh! Not good. There is an ampacity vs cable foot chart at the last few seconds of the video. Check it out.
On your wall connector, does it go to 3 reds only after a few hours of charging or right away?
If after a couple/few hours of 48Amp charging, then it is most certain too small of wire for your particular run length (cable-feet) and is creating too much resistance and thus heat.
You can test this theory/troublesoot in one of 2 ways:
-- reprovisioning your Wall Connector in the SETUP stage from "60 AMP Breaker" down to "50 AMP Breaker", thus ensuring it only allows the vehicle to draw 40 amps at 240v instead of 48 amps (remember: charge rate = @80% of breaker amp rating). If your cable run is REALLY long, you may want to reduce it down even further to "40 AMP Breaker", which will draw 32 amps.
- The other, and easier, way you can temporarily test this theory is to just lower your charging rate on the Tesla charging screen down from 48 to either 40 or 32 and see if it corrects the issue. If it does, it is a cable gauge problem and you need thicker wiring for your particular run.
If it goes into 3 reds immediately, It could either of the following 3 things, or a combination of them:
1) If you have a long cable run, rather than the short one I did, you likely need thicker wire than 6 AWG, such as 4 AWG or 2 AWG (lower number=thicker conductor) to carry the load. Remember that copper cable has resistance and the longer the cable-feet from your electrical breaker panel (aka load center) to the Wall Connector, the thicker wire you need to carry the same load.;
2) Check the terminal posts for proper connection and torque. Improper connection surface (wire touching the terminals) or improper torque can cause some anomalous things like that to occur, such as being too loose or too tight creating a less-than-optimal connection from wire to terminal block.;
3) Perhaps the Wall Connector is indeed defective.
Great DYI thanks! at 7:51 you say something about "if you have the 50 watt hour pack..." how can I tell ? I have a model Y arriving next month and need to make decisions ASAP... thanks again!
Thanks for the comment and pardon the delay. 50 kWh packs were only part of the Std Range lineup for a very, very short time back in mid-2020 and were quickly taken out of production. If you are getting a new Model Y, chances are it is either being assembled in Fremont or Austin. The Fremont cars (to the best of my knowledge) have all been installed with the same tried-and-true 2170 cells (named 2170 for the 21mm X 70mm outer dimensions of each cell in the pack). Only recently have a handful of Model Y’s built in GigaTexas (a.k.a. Austin) been fitted with the new 4680 cells. In either case, the packs each approximate 80 kWh capacity.
Thanks for the video. Does your chart at the end imply that if I want to install this 45’ away from the panel, I need 1 gauge wire?
Thanks for the question, Justin. Being 5 months ago, I don't recall where I grabbed that portion from. According to the NEC, there are correction factors to account for ambient max temps and cable feet. In looking into it more in depth and going through it, you will be good to run 4AWG from 45 feet away. With that distance you will only have a voltage drop of 1.3 VAC. Hope that helps.
(source: www.electrician2.com/calculators/vd_calculator_initial.html)
Geeking out alert - followed by a TL/DR version
NEC table 310.15(B)(16) lists ampacities for various gauges of wire. You will note it’s split among copper and aluminum wire and each has 3 columns for different temperatures. Romex is limited to no more than the 60 degree column as mentioned in the video (see NEC 334.80). However, if you use MC or metal clad (armored) cable, you’re working with the 90 degree column. However, NEC 110.14(C)(1) forces you to consider the rating of the terminals of both the circuit breaker and equipment when deciding which temperature column to use. Typically, terminals are rated (and marked) for 75 degrees.
TLDR- use 6/2 MC cable. The chart (310.15(B)(16) lists different ampacities for various wire. Length isn’t charted.
@@nathanmiller9711 thanks for the detailed response. I went with 6/3 copper wire
Tape that white wire with green tape if it's ground and not neutral
Great video! We did our install exactly like yours ours is also a very short run we used 6 awg wiring on a 60 amp breaker but we live in socal our wall charger is installed in the garage. Is it fine or should we change the wire to 4 awg? Thanks in advance!
You should change it or derate the circuit to 50A. This install is not code compliant. Best way to do it is #6 THHN in conduit (flexible if in wall) with a #10 THHN ground. Romex has a lower rating than THHN in conduit. He glosses right over the fact that his install does not meet code and should fail an inspection if it were permitted.
Hi, thank you for your video. I am looking into installing the Tesla Charger. I cut through a section of drywall in my garage near the main load center. The wall is filled with fiberglass insulation between the studs. I planned on using ROMEX 6/3 as you did. The insulation for the ROMEX is NM-B. Should I use another cable insulation type for Code/safety concerns?
By all means check your local code. This video was meant to be a guide to give people a basic understanding and encourage you to do your own due-diligence, not as a authoritative reference for every scenario. When in doubt, call your local electrical inspector. They are there to make sure it is done right, regardless if you pull a homeowner permit to do it yourself or hire a competent licensed electrician to do it.
I used this video as guide in installing my wall connector. Great job!!! Just got 1 question. Did you connect the bare wire anywhere in the panel (grnd wire)? Thanks
No, I just cut it off at the same spot where I peeled back and trimmed the outer romex wrap on both ends since I used the white wire as the ground.
Conventionally, 6/3 wire is normally used for installing NEMA 14-50 outlets. In a 14-50 outlet there are two “hot” wires that when combined to create a circuit provide 240 volts (Black and Red), a ground wire (bare copper or Green insulated, depending on the manufacturer and cable spec), and white which is a “neutral” which when mated to a single “hot leg” to complete a circuit is 120VAC across the two. A NEMA 14-50 plug delivers the capability of supplying both 120VAC & 240 VAC on the same plug. Since the Tesla HPWC is not a mixed-voltage device requiring 120&240, but merely a single-voltage device requiring 240, therefore it doesn’t use a neutral. I opted to use the white 6-gauge for ground instead of the 10-gauge bare copper on both the load center and the other side at the HPWC. Since in my installation this was in the main load center/breaker box, where the neutral bis bar and the ground bars are bonded together, the use of the white wire as the ground was functionally the same. I would not suggest doing so if you were wiring the HPWC off a subpanel, which have the neutrals and grounds isolated from each other.
@@TeslaTechChannel shouldn't you wrap green electrical tape around that white wire to identify it as ground?
@@stephenbeecher7545 Yes. Absolutely! Didn't have any handy at the time of filming, but that would certainly identify that conductor as ground. Good catch!
Its cool that many people have the main panel in the garage. Ours is in the basement and will need to run 90 feet to the garage. Ugghh
Hi Vivek, Many SF houses built within the last 20 years have the load center like you in the basement. I would suggest considering running a 100-watt subpanel into your garage, and then running the 60Amp circuit from that subpanel to the Wall Connector. The pros for doing that are that you will still have other breaker slots and available remaining power to run circuits later for things like a welder, air compressor, etc. If you are not into professional tools which pull a lot of watts, those additional available amps could instead be used for additional outlets on dedicated circuits for things like a refrigerator or freezer, a workbench powerstrip, or a myriad of other power-consuming devices. Considering the normal garage is now constructed with a single, or even worse shared, GFCI circuit leaving you very little available power for other things in your garage. If none of those reasons, strike your fancy, you can always just have expansion room for future circuits which may become desirable later. Another benefit is the shorter run for the Wall Connector from the subpanel, which means you can run the thinner 6 or 4 gauge wire, vs thicker for longer runs homeran to the basement main load center. Finally, having the subpanel close to the HPWC, you can be safer knowing that you could always use the 60A breaker as an emergency disconnect switch. Also, something else to think about is that, depending on the state you live in, if its has adopted NEC version 2020, you may be required to have a physical disconnect switch near the wall connector within X number of cable-feet to meet code requirements.
HTH
@@TeslaTechChannel wow, that is very insightful and thank you so much. I live in suburban Chicago. First think I am going to do is to get a guy who can speak this language. I wish you worked in IL. Lol. Thank you once again.
@@TeslaTechChannel Thank you so much once again. This in depth note is very helpful.
Tesla Tech, thank you for the detailed responses and excellent video. My electrician is planning to install a 100 amp subpanel just behind the wall of main panel. To create the 60 amp circuit that you described in your response, is a 60 amp breaker mandatory in the subpanel or can a 100 amp breaker be added instead for Tesla wall connector? Electrician said he will be adding a 100 amp subpanel and not a 100 watt subpanel that you mentioned in your response. What is the difference? (Website states Amps multiplied by Volts equals Watts.) Thank you.
So a 6/2 UF-B cable would be fine to use? It's about half the price of NM-B. I'm running about 40ft from one side of the garage to the other.
Great video, thanks. I'm not understanding the last chart at the end.
I installed GE 60amp breaker & ran 6/3 (before realizing I could've used 6/2 w/G) around 60-65 feet from basement, through attic to garage. Gen 3 Charger appears to be working fine, but is my wire UNDERsized and a fire risk?
Yes, it’s not to NEC code and insurance could blame you if there’s a fire and investigation. Install a 50amp breaker and commission your charger to work off a 50amp breaker.
m.th-cam.com/video/tDp9PhPJhUI/w-d-xo.html
I noticed you mentioned installing the NEMA outlet on a GFCI breaker? I’ve read a lot of forum posts about breakers tripping constantly since the UMC has a built in GFCI, have you heard of this?
I am assuming you are talking about wiring a 14-50 plug for use with a UMC + 14-50 plug adapter option. This video didn't dive into that option. If you are in the US, each state has their own adoption of the NEC version. Some are on 2017 while others are on 2020. any 14-50 plug would have to follow your state and local code requirements.
Tesla Tech thank you
I never considered needing a second charger. If I'm on a trip and need to stop at a supercharger, do I need my own connector?
Minor correction: the second generation wall connector can deliver up to 80A off a 100A circuit. But only Roadsters and certain older Model S and X cars can benefit from that.
Thanks
Great video, thanks! Just a quick question.. I see one of the reasons behind choosing the wall connector vs NEMA 14-50 is charge speed as you can pull a max 48A with the wall connector vs just 40A with the NEMA. However the Romex 6/3 has a max rate of 55A draw. Does that effectively mean that you can only pull 44A with the wall connector given this limitation instead of the full 48A? Thanks!! Still debating which way to go for my charging purposes.
Hi Max. So to clarify the 6/3 issue, I only went with that due to the extremely short cable length of my run + knowing that being connected to a hardwired Wall Connector, rather than a plug that could have a mult_ itude of devices plugged into it, as is the case with a NEMA 14-5* 0_ . While in my extremely short run (10 cable-feet) I ran 6/3 wire, I would recommend going with 4/3 wire if you are doing romex. Especially if the cable run between the WC and the load center (breaker panel) is of significant length. The Wall Connector can handle 4AWG wires in the terminal blocks. The NEC states that any continuous load (constant load over 3 simultaneous hours) requires you to rate the load at 125% when calculating the wire and breaker size. So in that instance, a 48A charging Tesla vehicle would require 60A rating for both wire and breaker. 6 AWG is rated at 55, whereas 4AWG is rated at 70. This blanket rating is intended to keep a safety margin and doesn't take into account ambient temperatures or length of cable feet. The longer the run, the more resistance. The more resistance, the more heat. The load calculations cited for the NEC are there to account for keeping the heat at a safe level for the NM-B (Romex) wire to not overheat, thereby melting the insulating jacket of the conductors. They have rated NM-B wire at 60 Celcius as a broad rule. While ALL NM-B rated wire is rated at 60C, and thus 6AWG rated for 55A load, the load calculation for a Wall Connector meets the exception for the "125% of continuous load" here (bit.ly/2ZvadtL) where it states:
Exception: If the assembly, including the overcurrent devices protecting branch circuit(s), is listed for operation at 100% of its rating, the allowable ampacity of the branch-circuit conductors shall be permitted to be not less than the sum of the continuous load plus the noncontinuous load.
...so with that said, because the Wall Connector and the onboard charging module on the Tesla have built-in overcurrent protection (both the Wall Connector AND the Car itself will not allow you to charge at higher than 48A) which thereby meets the "Exception" clause 6/3 wire is technically fine because 48A < rated 55A of 6AWG NM-B wire. Where this gets more complicated is that there is also another calculation to account for: Ambient Temperature. Cited here (bit.ly/3bQHW5Q) You see, the NEC rates wires at 30C/86F. You need to use the table to find out what the safe rating for the wire is based on ambient temps as a "correction factor". For example, If you live in Arizona and it gets to 49C/120F, that would fall under the 0.58 factor. e.g Multiply 6AWG's rated 55A by 0.58, and at 49C/120F it would only be rated for 32A. Conversely if you live in a colder northern climate that doesn't even get to 30C/86F it actually increases the max rating.
As you can see it takes some planning and math involved which was difficult to explain at length in this video.
In conclusion, because in MY scenario 6/3 wire worked within the safety ratings of the NEC, I was fine. For anyone needing to make longer runs and/or having a warmer climate than mine will need to adjust accordingly. That said, if in doubt, get the 4/3 wire just to be safe.
As for the charging rates of each connector type:
Wall Connector v2 = 80A if connected to a 100A circuit (only model S and X with specific dual-charger modules can handle)
------------------------------= 48A if connected to any circuit >60A (model 3 and Y onboard charging module limited to 48A)
Wall Connector v3 = max 48A (based on 80% of 60A circuit)
Mobile Connector + NEMA 14-50 adapter plug = max is 32A (regulated by the UMC circuitry)
Corded Mobile Connector w/ hardwired 14-50 plug = max 40A (based on 80% of 50A circuit wired to a 14-50 receptacle)
DC Superchargers bypass these limitations because they do not have to rectify the incoming AC voltage to DC voltage for storage into the battery packs, which creates heat, thus making higher DC charging (bypasses onboard rectifier in charging module of car) possible without creating excessive heat in the cars charging system. This explains how v3 sperchargers can charge at 250kWh DC whereas a 48A Wall Connector only produces 11.5kWh AC.
I could keep going, but I will stop now. This reply is already super long as it is. I hope this clarified any questions you had.
Thanks for watching! If you would like to see any particular video made on other topics, leave another comment to suggest it.
@@TeslaTechChannel Amazing.. this was SUPER helpful and informative. Really appreciate this very detailed response and I'm sure this will help a LOT of people! Thanks so much!!
@@TeslaTechChannel This explanation is flawed in the more than one way. Needing to rate the wire at 125% of a 48A continuous load means it MUST be rated at AT LEAST 60A.
Your install doesn't qualify for the exception to 210.20(A) The assembly includes the OCPD, your breaker as well as the cable and EVSE. Your breaker is not listed for 100% it's rating, else you would be fine to use a 50A breaker by your logic. Your reasoning that it is ok to use cable rated at 55A for an assembly requiring a 60A rating "because it's a short run" also holds no water. I'd love to be wrong about this. Please rerefer me to the NEC article that makes a 10 foot run of #6 NM-B cable rated 60A. The only way you could justify this is by the ambient temperature correction. And this is in your garage which I doubt stays below 16 degrees C (60 F) year round.
Even IF you have a situation that somehow meets an exception to the NEC you are giving advise to weekend warriors who are going to take it for gospel across the board because your video is well produced, well researched, shows charts and references code. They may do what you did even if it puts their unique installation further out of alignment with the code than your's is.
At the end of the day you are giving bad advice to people who don't know better because you present your flawed understanding of the NEC in a convincing way.
Please prove me wrong so I can, with good conscience, start using #6 romex in my EV charger installs and start saving money and hassle. I will remove all my critical comments and apologize till I'm blue in the face.
@@cali-electro-dad Yes, he would have been much better off, instead of using Romex, using 3 separate 6 gauge braided single strand in a metal or pvc conduit.(actually the ground can be 8 or 10 gauge) That would have increased the amp rating to a true 60 amps. BTW: where I live, Romex is only allowed inside the wall, not on the outside of the wall, even in a garage.
As I'm sure you've heard by now, that cheap, plastic 14-50 you showed near the end of the video is a well-known fire starter. A real 14-50 costs nearly 10 times as much but is much less likely to burn down the house. I, personally, will limit the amperage in the app. No point in maxing out the heat load in my house wiring.
Agreed. Since wiring a NEMA 14-50 was not the subject of the video, and therefore not as important to go into depth on, it has been left in there. However, you are correct. If someone opts to wire-up a 14-50 they should get the commercial series 14-50p from Hubbell meant to handle such a duty-cycle.
Thanks for noticing and for your comment!
Great video! Is there any reason why you can't use 2 conductor wire instead of 3? I realize you preferred the thicker gauge for your ground, but could you have used 6/2 for your job instead of 6/3? Thanks!
Thanks! You certainly can use 6/2.
Ideally, if I could have found 4/2 when I did the install I would have used that. Unfortunately, I haven't found anyone to make a 4/2 Romex, and wasn't interested in making conduit unnecessarily and pulling 4AWG or 6AWG THHN. 6/2 would have been the next best option, but wasn't readily available at HD or Lowes on the weekend I decided to do this install. Since the run was in-wall and didn't require wet-rated or other cable spec or conduit creation, and couldn't do aluminium since the terminal lugs on the HPWC aren't rated for that, only copper, so I opted to go with readily available 6/3 copper Romex.
But by all means, if you can find and run 4/2, great. Otherwise 6/2 is your next best option.
@@TeslaTechChannel #6 romex is simply not rated for this install in any circumstance. It really makes my blood boil that you present this install "ok" when it is not. EV charging is a CONTINUOUS USE load which means your 48A charger MUST have circuit wiring at NO LESS than 60A. As you acknowledge in your video #6 romex is only rated 55A. So you are publicly endorsing a non-compliant install.
FFS just use flex conduit with 2x #6 THHN and a #10 ground and call it a day! Arguably cheaper at today's cable costs anyway.
@@cali-electro-dad so 4/2 would be the recommended? Thanks,
@@lfantasy5040 Personaly, I would use flexible metal conduit with 2 x #6 THHN + #10 ground in this situation. That assembly is rated @ 65A. If romex is to be used it should be #4, but you won't find 4/2 romex anywhere and 4/3 is a pain in the butt to install and expensive.
your rational for using 6-2 on a 60 is interesting. I am not judging or criticizing. I just find it interesting how we all make our decisions. I have been doing elec for 40 years. And my justification is this. 55 amp breaker is not considered standard in the NEC hence you can go to the next standard which is 60. Hope i am not wrong. Otherwise I have been wrong for a hella long time. Anyway great video.
Very true, and sure you normally just go off the ampacity chart, so you certainly aren’t wrong. Even if you were, it wouldn’t be my place to judge. I was merely trying to provide some additional rationale and spark some thinking from the viewer behind the process and basic understanding of the modifying variables which can mitigate the standard ampacity chart. In hindsight, a year on, I would redo this video to using 4/2 and conventional copper ground rather than phasing the neutral as ground to have avoided people getting confused behind dogmatic conventions, rather than offer some understanding of electricity. Would have saved TONS of questions. I suppose,however, that it is also a good sign that people are asking questions, rather than going off half-cocked. Thankful I didn’t decide to demonstrate doing a THHN run.. People would be asking me how to do saddle bends :)
@@TeslaTechChannel being that I am going to be 72 and have 2 metal hips I try to avoid saddle bends now. unless its 1/2". And installing 4-2 in that charger. makes me tired just thinking about it. :)
Great video but I think the National Electric code requires the ground wire to be Green or marked green.
You are correct!....or bare copper. Adding green electrical tape to both ends of the alternate wire being used in the video will make is code compliant.
That was informative. Thank you. Questions. My previous electrician installed 100A circuit breaker instead of 80 A required for my 2015 Tesla Model S with dual motor. Now my original charger is something wrong. Light comes on but not able to charge (turned to red light). So I ordered new Wall Connector which requires 60A circuit breaker.
Question 1: Can I still use 100 A circuit breaker or do I have to replace to 60 A. If I continued to use 100A circuit breaker, will there be any harm to car?
Question 2: I tried to figure out what is wrong with charger. Checked resistances and voltage drop. There is no voltage around little unit in charger "Curtis/Albright, type SW82-353, 240 V. Made in UK". Do you know what this unit is? I think this unit went bad. It looks like transformer or sort.
Question 3: Do you know anyone can repair this broken unit instead of trashing it?
Much appreciate your guidance. Again thanks in advance.
Hi Kyong. Thanks for the compliment!
Your previous electrician installed a 100A breaker to afford you with 80A charging rate (19.2 kWh) on your Gen2 charger, as per the 80% rule, as outlined by the National Electric Code. Similarly, the Gen3 charger (in the video and currently for sale) has a charging limit of 48A based on a 60A circuit (again 80%). So it sounds like your electrician did a correct job. That said, if you were to replace your Gen2 with a Gen3, you may have issues with using your existing wiring conductors being too thick, as the Gen3 is rated to handle up to 4AWG conductors on the terminal blocks. Because I don't know what he used for wiring gauge, which standard the conductors are, the length of the cable run from the charger to the load center, etc. it is hard to guess. Many Gen2 installs have used 2 AWG THHN wire in a conduit, perhaps yours is too. I don't know. If that is the case, I haven't tried fitting 2AWG to see if it would still fit. If it did, you could simply change out the 100A breaker for a 60A and mount /wire the Gen3 and be done giving you 48A charging (11.5 kWh). The NEC is fine with using larger wire gauge than the circuit requires, just not smaller. If you do choose to replace your Gen2 charger for the Gen3, please do not leave the 100A breaker installed. Please change it out to the proper 60A for that unit.
As for the component-level replacement of your Gen2, unfortunately I cannot help you there as I don't have in depth knowledge about it. I would certainly prefer to fix your Gen2 over replacement, from both the stand point of money as well as charging rate, assuming you can find someone with such knowledge.
One thing you can try on your Gen2 to troubleshoot is to limit your charging rate down below 80A in increments
using the charge screen of the car and see if your charger still throws the red light. Heck, try tuning the charge rate down to 48A, which is the same rate you would be getting from the Gen3, and see if it still throws the red light. If you are able to charge fine at a lower rate, than it could be that the charging unit is becoming overheated at 80A, hence the red LED. Also, the wall connectors and the on-board charging modules in the car negotiate rates based on inputs from other sensors too. Perhaps the charging module is having some sort of issue and is sending back an error whilst charging at 80A. Just experiment with that rate-limiting and see what that leads to. It may help in troubleshooting whether it is the Gen2 Wall Connector or something in the charging system in your car. Also, if you have a friend with another Gen2 charger at their home, not a supercharger, try using 80A charging on theirs and see if it returns red. If so, that points towards a probable car charging system issue, rather than a Gen2 Wall Connector issue.
Wish I could help more, but there are many variables I cannot sufficiently account for in troubleshooting over a comment thread on a video. I hope that what I said provided some value and perhaps pointed you in the right direction. Best of luck!
Absolutely Great Video! I have several questions that I am hoping you can answer for me.
I need to install my Gen 3 outside under a covered porch. The run will be about 50 feet total due to the distance of my 200 amp panel box to where I need to mount the Gen 3.
I will be penetrating the outside wall to make the run from my panel box and planned on using a 50 amp breaker. I had planned to use #6 wires since as the wires will be in conduit all the way up to the Gen 3 charger .
Since as I am using single wires instead of Romex, I plan to buy Black, Red, and Green wires each of the same length. Would you advise against using #6 wire and going with #4 for that length of run.
The main reason for this is that I have very little access to the panel and using #6 wires will be hard enough to manipulate given the tight space I am working in around the panel.
I have one more question: Can you explain why the installation manual for the Gen 3 (page 20) shows G, L2/N, and L1 in the diagram?
Is it because you would wire a Neutral wire only if you were only wiring it for 120V versus 240V where there would be no Neutral ?
Correct! Visualize that L1 is one end of the 240v secondary coil in the transformer feeding your house. Visualize L2 being the opposite end of that secondary coil. Now visualize that the Neutral is nothing more than a jumper wire to the midpoint in the coil. In order to complete the circuit, L1 needs either L2 to complete the loop, which will produce 240v, or it can use the Neutral to complete the loop, just at half the voltage, since it is only traveling half way across the coil. Therefore the "L2/N" terminal lug, as you correctly guessed, can complete the L1 loop with either one, it just depends on if you want 240v (L2) or 120v (N). Given that 240V vs. 120V will produce twice as many kWh, under the same ampere rating, since 'Watts = Volts x Amps'.
Thank you for the kind words! I really appreciate it and am glad you found it informative.
Based on the info given, I would suggest the following steps:
PREQUALIFY -- Assess what your power delta is on that load center. That is to say, If you have 200A service available to that panel, if you were to take an ammeter (amp clamp multimeter) [please watch another video on using a Amp probe so you don't electrocute yourself, as you must test using live loads], what are the ampere readings on the L1, L2 and N feeder cables coming from the meter into the 200A breaker at the top of the panel? The calculation should be run with as many items in your house drawing power as possible during the test, especially things like the AC units / electric heat pumps, electric water heaters, basically anything which draws the most power. L1 and L2 will be different readings, the difference between them should roughly be the reading on Neutral. In formulaic equation: L1-L2=~N. Now, take the difference between the 200A service breaker and the highest reading of either L1 or L2. That is your power delta (how many amperes you have left available).
(and because it is a 200A service panel, I assume it is the main and/or only breaker panel in the house, as most residential service comes in either 100A, 200A, or 400A; and if it is 400A and this is a 200A subpanel, Neutral and Ground SHOULD NOT be bonded and need to be treated as separate. N and G are only bonded together at the primary panel fed from the service meter.)
ASSESS -- If you have 60A remaining, and don't have any other circuits planned to be added which would subtract from the delta, I would suggest going with that, as that will provide you the fastest charging. If you only have 50A available, well then that's what you've got, if you've only got 40A left.......you get the idea.
PLANNING & RESEARCH -- Because you will be running to exterior and potentially wet location, the HPWC is rated to handle that, but you MUST check your local NEC code requirements for which conduit pipe, mounting boxes, cabling spec, and if in the case of NEC ver 2020 (if your state has adopted it) a disconnect switch within X number of feet from the HPWC. There are too many variables unknown to assist you in your exact situation. But depending on what your requirements call for, you will need to follow those in order to do the job up to code. Once you have done the research on your particular code requirements, you need to draw up plans and go to your county and pull a "homeowner electrical permit". Your drawing plans will likely need a copy submitted to get the permit approved, and if anything is incorrect they will tell you what you need to fix in order to comply to your code requirements.
CONCLUSION -- As for your question about running #6 vs #4 wire, the ampere ratings for NM-B "Romex" are different from say THHN in conduit, so depending on which cable spec you are running, per code, the answer could be yes or no, depending. But at over 50 feet, I would run #4, as the voltage drop and resistance (heat) plus the heat from the 48A load will be pushing the 55A rating of #6 to potential problems. NOW, if you find that 50A is all you have as a power delta and/or is deemed sufficient to charge at 40A, then by all means go for the #6, as it is well within the spec. As a reference, here is the link to Southwire's calculator for conductor sizing:
www.southwire.com/calculator-vdrop
You have to fill in all fields, and where is asks "Parallels" enter 1. This is asking how many 240v circuits you are running in the same conduit space. Since L1 is your feed and L2 is your return, thus you are only running 1 240v "hot" feed.... and yes, in a conduit-run 240v single-phase circuit Black & Red are coded for L1&L2 and Green is always "ground".
As for the tight space, you can run the wires into the panel, strip the sheath, route and prebend the conductors, mount the ground (Green) to the ground bar, and then pre-terminate the breaker lugs for L1&L2 prior to clicking the breaker into the bus bars, similar to how I showed in the video. Certainly, #4 is thicker and harder to bend than #6, but I personally wouldn't let a few minutes of frustration detract you from charging your car 20% faster every day for the next however many years. You should have enough room to get them done right.
Hope that helps! If at any point you get the gut feeling that this is too much to do, consider running it by the county electrical inspector or a licensed and competent electrician, even if just to reassure you that you did your homework and have assessed the situation correctly and have a sound plan.
The wire is actually THHN or if Trenched in ground it should be THWN so #6 wire is rated at 65 for thwn and 75 for thhn 5:05 in video certified sparky here
Great video though just wanted to let you know
You sound like the not drunk, quasi-psychotic brother of the guy who did those long, hilarious Episodes I, II, and III reviews.
Not sure which review videos you are referring to. Got a link?
I understand your logic, but I don’t agree with using the 60amp breaker on that 6awg romex. If you didnt want to wait for an online order, then you should have used MC cable or THHN wire in a conduit. Both could be 6awg and 8awg for the ground and fully rated for a 60amp breaker. Or stick with romex but commision your charger for a 50amp breaker. Also, if you use white for ground then you should get a label maker or green tape and mark it as ground.
6/3 Romex is not properly rated for 60A breakers since the charger is classified as a continuous load. It has to be on #6 THHN. 6/3 Romex is only good for 55A, therefore, it maxes out at on a 50A breaker in regards to continuous load
I'm wondering why use a Romex 6/3 and not 6/2/? Seems just cheaper materials wise.
Hi great video! Electrical I hired installed the wall connector with aluminum SER cable, not copper, and I have been noticing the wire is running hot during charging. Any issues with this?
Ooof! Yeah, there is an issue. In the manual it specifically states “only use copper”.
@@TeslaTechChannel I applied form oxidation prevention paste and retighted all the connectors and it’s been running fine. Need to figure out how to replace the wires with copper later. Thanks for the response
Why use the 60 deg C column? Gen 3 Installation manual specifically notes: "If installing for maximum power, use minimum 6 AWG, 90° C-rated copper wire for conductors." 6/3 is perfect for this application as long as the individual conductors are THHN or better (and they should be!). I would even use 6/2 if only 3 wires are required.
6/2 is all that is needed. As for conductor type, while the HPWCv3 and breaker being rated higher, as well as the NM-B used in my video was rated at 90c, the NEC states despite that they say it needs to be downrated to the 60c column. 6/2 THHN in conduit would be the best way to go. 4/2 even better.
Just wondering my panel is about 80ft from my garage should I be fine with 6/3 wire or is that too long of a run any help would be appreciated!
I recommend going with 4/2 wire. Your local big box store might not have it on-hand. You may need to get it from a local Electrical Supply shop that typically sells to electricians.
The main reason I used 6/3 wire on my install is frankly they didnt have 4/2 wire at Home Depot or Lowes and the local electrical supply house was closed that day and I was impatient. 6/3 (90C temp rated) was all HD had that would fit my case and still was within spec, since I only had a 10 cable-feet run (less cable resistance due to short run) . A year later my 6/3 install still functionally works fine, but I would suggest 4/2. HTH
According to 7:19 the recommended amp for the SR+/RWD is 40 amp breaker. To be future proof can I use a 60 amp instead? And just use that setup with a SR+/RWD and if in the future I get a performance or LR I don't have to replace the breaker and possible wire. Thanks in advance.
The Wall Connector can be wired appropriately to accommodate a 60A circuit (48A continuous load) and still be used on a vehicle that has the in-car charger module limited to 32A. It will just be future-proofed should you decide to trade-up at some point. The Wall Connector and in-board charger module in the car use the low-voltage lines in the plug to negotiate the highest common denominator. The Wall Connector will say “I can give you 240VAC@48A. The car will respond, “I can only handle 240VAC@32A”. The Wall Connector acknowledges that message, downrates itself and then proceeds to send at 240VAC@32A, even though it is capable of more.
@@TeslaTechChannel thank you so much for the quick response 👍
@@TeslaTechChannel, while the communication protocol is somewhat accurate, the Wall Connector DOES NOT downrate itself to 'send only 32A'.
The Wall Connector really only tells the car 'I have 48A available for you' (or less based on what the supply circuit breaker is rated for and the Wall Connector was commissioned for upon installation). It is the charger in the car - nothing else - that 'regulates' what current it is pulling from the mains. The Wall Connector only tells how much there is available.
If you come with a Ford F-150 Lightning (Extended Range), it can charge at 80A, but it will not, as the Wall Connector will just tell the car 'sorry' I only have 48A for you' and the charger (actually chargers, as the Ford has two onboard chargers) will adjust itself to not pull more than 48A. Same if you come with an older Nissan Leaf. The car knows that it can (will) only pull 30A. But it's not regulated by the Wall Connector per se. Only communicated what's available.
The Wall Connector, as all residential AC charging solutions, are little more than fancy cable hangers, with a tiny bit of intelligence built it ;-)
I'd like to add that running 6/3 Romex instead of 6/2 romex was not only kinda silly but also costs quite a bit more per foot. Might not matter in your install because of proximity to panel but sometimes you may have a few hundred dollar difference in wire price for that extra conductor on a longer run
Agreed.
it was smart to use 6/3 for the video & for non electricians. It gets confusing when you use the white wire as an energized conductor, you have to permanently mark the white conductor as a “hot” conductor, apparently electrical inspectors don’t count black electrical tape as “permanently marked” 😂😂 great video!
What is the size of the 6/3 cable. In mm ?
How, I plan on getting the model Y next spring but plan on selling my house once my son's are in college. Probably 13 years. If I get the super charger, could i take it out and put it in my new home when i retire?
Just to be clear on terminology, this install is of a Generation 3 Tesla Wall Connector, not a Tesla SuperCharger. Two completely different things. That said, you can uninstall the Wall Connector 13 years from now. However, I personally wouldn’t: 1) At that point, 13 years from now you will have gotten your ROI from it many times over by then; 2) By then there will surely be a newer more advanced model you will likely want to get at that time; 3) Having a Tesla Wall Connector installed already will be a value-added selling point to your home for any potential buyer who has a Tesla.
Breaker size is not determined by the attached load. A fault can still apply a current greater than what the car will pull.
To my understanding, breaker current (size) limits are determined to protect the wiring from excess loading. There are also numerous chapters and sections needed to be cross-referenced in the NEC to determine the "correct" pairing. Moreover, there are changes from version to version of the NEC. Perhaps you want to elaborate more to your point and cite some references that everyone reading the comments can benefit from. I too would love to learn something new. TIA.
@@TeslaTechChannel the purpose of a breaker is first and foremost to keep the current within the ampacity of the conductor. The ampacity of a conductor can be impacted by ambient temperature, voltage drop length, conduit fill, and terminal ratings.
If you have 75C terminals on both sides of the run you can size the wire to the 75c column of 310.
@@TeslaTechChannel the load will be running for more than 3 hours so it's a continuous load. So you need 1.25*max load = 60. The breaker should be 60 and since both sides of the connection are 75C a 6-2 copper run would work. Permitting you don't have a temp, length, or conduit fill correction.