Installing Tesla Wall Connector DIY | Step by Step Detailed Installation
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 เม.ย. 2023
- In this video I install a Tesla wall connector in my garage. This will be the second wall connector that I have in my garage as I have 2 Teslas to charger. This is a pretty straightforward process, the challenge with my install was running the wire through the walls.
Get your chargers here:
Wall connector: amzn.to/4c3h40N
Mobile Connector: amzn.to/4c7BN3y
Get your tesla accessories here: www.evbase.com?sca_ref=4439918.Bfe7sB7X2e
Product Links:
Breaker: amzn.to/3KYpSsz
6-2 NMB Wire: amzn.to/3H5vGzh
Tesla Wall Connector: amzn.to/41OblXj
S2 Electrical Bits: amzn.to/3Lo43nW
Drill Bit set: amzn.to/41MU2FT
Impact Driver: amzn.to/3mMzoHq
Wall Stud Finder Tool: amzn.to/40yhUMq
Link to all my Model Y video playlist: • Tesla Model Y
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Links:
Breaker: amzn.to/3KYpSsz
6-2 NMB Wire: amzn.to/3H5vGzh
Get your tesla accessories here: www.evbase.com?sca_ref=4439918.Bfe7sB7X2e
for some reason your links take to a search filter. Can you pls post the actual product links? I think lot of people would find it useful.
Great job on the wall fish, that’s not always easy to do for most folks, especially a fatter gauged wire with insulation. Great insight and video. My only Major suggestion, and I don’t usually comment on videos is SAFETY. I’ve been an electricians helper in residential construction. Became a power plant operator & now operate a major power grid and work with linemen on high voltage lines. I’ve seen first hand what electricity does, it’s unforgiving. I can tell you did the research to be safe enough (sorta). But anyone else just following you step-by-step may easily get severely shocked or electrocuted (killed). I would highly recommend killing the main circuit breaker to any panel before attempting any of these steps. With the panel cover removed the bus is exposed along with hot lugs, etc. Any accidental touch to any of that, and you or the hand tool that comes in contact with it instantly turns your body into a path to ground. You don’t want that much amperage flowing through you. This isn’t a knock against you but I’d hate for someone to get killed doing this and not truly knowing the hot points in a panel or how to respect electricity. You also didn’t put any kind of disclaimer so I could see someone trying to come back and potentially sue you. Just my two cents. Great instructions but totally skipped safety steps to do this safely.
Thanks for the comment!
Thanks Myk, very helpful! I just ordered my Model Y today and will pick up my breaker and cable to wire my own outlet, as soon as the connector arrives next week. I've already wired my wife's EV outlet and connector just fine, and appreciate your tips to do the Tesla connector.
Cool! Good luck, it's not that hard!
Very good detailed video, I feel confident to do it myself now 👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿
Awesome! Good luck on your installation!!
I am an electrician it’s more complicated than what people think for safety reasons. There are codes for securing the wire. 125% amperage ratings and breaker ratings. Codes on voltage drop. Wire sizing. Phasing tape I would not encourage people to try this without extensive knowledge
Okay thanks
Yeah , but in every class there are those students who just got by and sat in the back of the class. Or the guy who treats your home like something to cut up. I always seem to get one of them. For example, I went to dealer for oil change and the plug wasn’t threaded right. 🤨🙄🤷🏽
You sound like you just want to be scary with some complicated situation.
Oh no, how ever will we do math and smol science
After getting 3 quotes ranging from $8-900 purely in labor to install an EV charger, which was being run to an exterior wall near the panel, I decided to just do it myself. Almost no electrical experience, it took me under 2 hours to do the job for about $70 in materials. I value a good electrician, but their knowledge is not worth $400/hr in labor rates. Felt like electricians were just jacking up their labor rates specifically because it was an EV charger.
Just today, I was quoted $1,800 for an 8’ run to an exterior wall. I will be doing this myself.
Thanks man, you help me save money.
Very nice!
very useful thanks
Thanks for watching
nicely done!
Thanks!
Hi my friend ,you did it a great job!!
Thank you
not only could you have done it. it probably would have been better. But u paid 600 for the lesson , now u got the knowledge...and will.keep for life.
Well said!!
@@Myksgarage I disagree.....theres more to in then just running the wire. theres the safety in knowing the main box wont overload causing overheating and a potential fire......someone in our neighborhood installed his watching a yourtube video not knowing his box was already overloaded and burned his house.....while the job looks fairly easy, theres more to the safety part that youre paying the expert to do. he probably saw the main box and knew you could run a line for your first charger and didnt tell you that part so you just thought the manual labor or running and mounting it is all it takes to be a certified electrician.....when its not
After watching this I feel very confident to install mine when it comes in. It’s pretty straight forward. People shouldn’t be charging more than $100 plus materials for these installs. Was quoted $1800. People just try and take advantage because you have a “Tesla”.
That's exactly right, electricians hear Tesla and the price then jumps up! It is very straightforward, best of luck installing yours!
@@Myksgarage -- How many hours did this take you? Add travel time and multiply by $75 to $150 per hour! "$100 plus material" isn't going to cut it if you hire a real electrician!
@@rpsmithit doesn’t take a “real” electrician to do it.
@@mageds2684 -- I never said it did. But no real electrician is going to do that job for "$100 plus material" unless he is a good friend or a relative!
Great job, a very detailed video. Fishing wire is difficult. Using fiberglass fish rods has been the easiest for me to use. You don't need to spray foam insulation at your cut drywall edges. The drywall mud and tape prevent any air infiltration. Insulating a small crack will not help your R-factor, especially if you are taping over it.
Thanks for sharing your experience
Great tip on patching holes in drywall using a piece of wood.
Thanks!
Hi mike thank you nice video, will be very helpful if you make a video how to do sharing load, also be careful by not exceed your amps from your panel breakers, that’s why is very important to do the setup as power sharing when you do the wifi Setup to your charger that way will split your amps, in your case 50amps Thank you again
Good tip!
Good job
Thanks for watching
Nice install. You need to go back and retighten the leg nuts in the TWC wire box for sure. Maybe at the breaker too. 50 torque pounds a lot more than you think. Then wiggle, torque, wiggle torque. The # issue is not torquing to spec which leads to melting and fires with these high continuous load chargers. Buy a $10 torque screw driver and prevent the issue - don't over or under torque. All the best.
Good tip, thanks!
Nice size garage
Yeah it's good size, thanks for watching!
Great informative video. I’m just an average person and learned a lot today. I’ll get my install in two days and due to warranty’s issues I have to hire a certified Tesla installer electrician to do the work, but I like to know what I’m paying for. Thank you!
I'm glad you learned from this! Best of luck!
I agree with the comment about putting red tape on the white wires (on both ends). I was wondering how you strain relieved or stapled the cable near the charger. Also, it is recommended when you tighten large stranded copper like this that you "work" the conductor by torqueing and backing off 1/4 turn and retorqueing the screws. You should use either a torque wrench or a torque screwdriver to set those torques. Finally, did you go back and re-provision your 1st Tesla charger for the 50 Amp breaker? You can limit the current in your car but if someone else plugs in their car (say you are charging a visiting friend's car), their car will pull the full 48A unless you've reprogrammed the Tesla charger for the 50 Amp breaker.
Yes, both of my chargers at set for a 50amp breaker, so the most they will put out is 40amps
You have no idea what you're doing! 😮😮😮
Honestly great work putting out this video. Not to discourage but for best practice in your next project like this. Never strip the wires more than what is recommended such that when you connect the wire to the breaker the copper part of the wire after you strip the jacket should not be exposed outside the breaker. That’s a shocking hazard and also could fail the inspection and could potentially end up not having approved insurance claims if the house catches fire.
You either make sure read the electric code and follow best practice or safe or get this through licensed electrician. I’m not an electrician but just a home owner.. again very good work sharing this video and this is inspiring
Good tips, thanks for sharing
Some recommendations. 1) You need a breaker with 25% extra power rating per national electric code. So Tesla did that for you only allowing 40A at charger. Now your original charger should be slower (40A also). I'd recommend you upgrade the breaker to 60A since you went to all that trouble and should do it right. 2) Much easier to open that entire wall cavity so you can tack down wire properly to stud and avoid a screw or nail hitting that wire randomly routed in wall cavity.
I don't need the extra amperage to the charger so 40amps is plenty for me
it is 20%. For a 50 amp breaker, the Wall Charger dip switches should be set at 40 amps each. The 60 amp can run at the full 48amp.
@JDTaylor indeed, 20% going backwards, 125% forward.
6/2 romex is only rated at 44 amp continuous load like EV chargers. Myk did it right by reducing to the 50 amp breaker. To run a 60, he’d need either 4/3 romex, or 6 gauge THHN wire in conduit.
Question: Did you consider a power sharing option with both connectors sharing the 60amp breaker that you started with? Have you had any problems with circuit tripping? Thank you for posting this.
I considered that, it just didn't work for where I wanted to install the second one. No tripped breaker at all
Nice and tight = torqued connections
Did you use a wire clamp coming into the connector
I don't think i did
I’m currently in a rental and want to do this but run the cable around the outside of the home as not to have to damage the walls.
Yeah that could work.
18:10 - you need to mark the white wire with red tape
To indicate it's a hot lead??
@@Myksgarage yes, a white wire should be used for neutral. Live wire should be red or black (like all other wires in your box). But you can put a tape with different color to overwrite wire color
What about just replacing the plug? I drove over ours when my husband was charging 😳. It pulled it out of his car and damaged the plug/bent the prongs in the part that goes into the car (the car is fine TG). Tesla doesn't sell the part but there are a lot of chargers on marketplace for cheap. I've found people saying it's easy to do but not exactly how to do it.
I would check on eBay, you could find a used plug replacement and just replace the broken plug
It is also good to consider upgrading the receptacle. At the start, everyone used the $15 box store outlets but time is showing they do not stand up to the continuous EV loads and we are now seeing overheating and melting of plugs and outlets. Best to always use a commercial grade ($50+) and 2.5 inches diameter instead of 2 inches on the cheaper.
The red and white clips in the top corner of the unit, do you know what those are for?
On the wall connector??
@@Myksgarage yeah on 23:02 you can see two little clips, red then white on the face before you connect it to the wall. Just curious what those are for. They're green on mine and can't figure out what they're for.
An electrician just installed this wall connecter next to the new main panel. I didn't see a 60 amp breaker which I thought was required for 48 amp charging, but the car is charging fine at 48 amps.
Is it a 50amp breaker?
@@Myksgarage Yes.
@@rkgsdYou need to set the max charging at 40A on your wall charger. Your breaker is overstressed at this charging current. 40A is more than enough. Better safe than sorry.
@@rb8049 Thank you! Just as I suspected. I'm OK with 40amp, but I still might question the owner of the electrical outfit as to why a 60amp breaker wasn't installed by his crew and demand that they come back out.
You can put 60A through the wall without protection like conduit?
I'm only doing 50amp and the wire I'm using is romex with is designed to be inside walls without conduit
The answer is no, but since the poster is only using up to 50A then the NM cable is OK.
You didn't show the part where you pulled the wires from your breaker to the garage. Wondering how you did that.
It was dark and there was a lot of swearing 🤬
😂 I think that's going to be the hardest part for me. I have to fish about 5 feet for the line. I may use a bunch of wire hangers to help me get it.
How many amps do these wall chargers actually pull? Thanks!
You can adjust it from your car, 10amp up 50amp
@@Myksgarage -- you cant pull over 80% of capacity for an extended time so 40 Amps max on a 50 Amp breaker.
And 48 amps for a 60 amp breaker.
So you need 220 v in your home for these chargers?
Yeah it helps, you can plug it into a 110v but it only charges the car at 3 miles of range per hour of charging.
Good job. Electricians want every one scared. Maybe turn panel off to seem more safe when recording. I wouldn’t have tightened the breakers with that screw driver. Didn’t appear insulated.
Hell, I’m going to do my mine self Your video gave me the impression it was easy. 🤞👍
Thanks for your positive comment! Good luck with your installation!
My old main panel is 150 can i set up same wall charger with a 50amp breaker?
Sure, as long as you have space for a new breaker
jesus christ. There are calculations required to find your max breaker size for charging. Get a copy of your utilities usage meter, usually you can download it as a spreadsheet from your utilities company. Find your spontaneous max kW over the course of a whole year. This will check for when AC/heaters, ovens, TVs, etc. turn on simultaneously. The blocks are usually in 15 minute chunks so you need to do basic math to convert to kW/hours. Convert that to Amps based on your voltage. Apply a 20% safety factor and then 150A - that max usage amperage. That will be the max size breaker you can use. If it's greater than 60, then you can use a 60A breaker, if not, you need to use to a smaller breaker.
If you fuck it up and install a breaker too big, you are gonna burn down your house by burning through the insulation in the wires when everything is using the power at the same time. lol. Probably not gonna be that bad, but there's a reason why electricians are needed to install it. The physical installation is easy. The knowledge of how and why they are using different sized breakers is where they get paid.
"so you need to do basic math to convert to kW/hours" I meant, convert from. You are working with kW/.25hours in 15 minute blocks. Convert that back to kWs by multiplying by 4. Use W = V x A, to find A. Assuming 240V in your main, just divide kW*1000/240, and you get A. That is your max usage A.
Please don't burn down your house lol.
@@MyksgarageNo no no... That's like saying you can't bounce a check because there are still checks left in the checkbook. @changen4125 provides some good guidance.
Can you update the breaker like? It’s not going to the one in the video.
I'm not sure I understand the question
@@Myksgarage can you update the breaker link? The one listed isn’t taking you directly to the circuit breaker.
I believe coming within only two amps of the breakers load protection threshold will cause the breaker to overheat internally and eventually start turning off, and difficult for it to remain on if you switch it back on. . Worst case scenario if it makes enough heat to ignite some of the polymer in the fuse box you could have a fire. I believe Tesla wants you to use a 60 amp breaker to charge a 48 amps. Using a 50 amp breaker will probably caused the wall charger to limit your current, because it's not safe to come within two amps of the breakers threshold because the small element that causes the breaker to diffuse when it reaches a certain temperature the heat is created by the load of current when you reach 50 amps the element will expand and cause the breaker to defuse. Running the breaker too close to threshold for prolonged amount of time can cause permanent damage to the breaker, and may even cause some of the polymer inside your fuse box to catch fire.
Did you even watch the video? Once installed, the wall connector is setup with a 50amp breaker and will only charge at a maximum of 40amps
@@Myksgarage yeah that's why I said it won't allow you to charge a 48 amps, I haven't installed this yet I just got it, that's why I watched your video to see how to install it.
The set up process of the wall connector allows you tell it the amperage of the breaker. In this case he set the breaker to 50 amps at 24:27, which means the wall charger will only pull 40 amps. @@judeghazaleh6134
It’s called a Eaton BD breaker
Good to know
My electrician wired my wall connector to a 60 Amp breaker cause it draws 44 amps continuously. What am I missing here ? Why only a 50 amp breaker
The wire I used is only rated for 50amps, so used an appropriate sized breaker
Wire size is what you are missing. Wire size determines the breaker size. With a 60 amp breaker, charging at 48 amps, your wire size should be 4 gauge Romex for in wall use.
With 6 gauge wire as was used in the video, for safety, 40 amp charging is allowed with a 50 amp breaker.
The proper wire amperage rating for the amps used by the car charger should be utilized at no more than 80% of the breaker amperage rating.
The wire always needs to be the proper size for the amperage draw, so that the wire doesn't overheat or melt.
The purpose of the breaker is for safety and to switch off when shorts occur in damaged wires and in case there is excess amperage or overload being drawn on the circuit connected to that breaker.
Question, if you already had a 14-50 NEMA on that same wall, why not just remove that plug and use the existing wires for the wall charger?
The plug is too far forward. I wanted the wall connector placed at the rear of the vehicle
I followed this video a few days ago and i tried to do this and my electrical panel started sparking. And eventually it stopped. I got lucky i didnt get killed or my house burned down. I have an appt for certified electrician to come to my house to fix the whole fuck up.
What went wrong?
As you can tell: LATEX gloves are not the best choice for electrical work :) Also: You should be TORQUING those screws to specs!
Oh yeah
My installation will be easy my gen 1 just stopped working so I am just replacing with gen 3….
Yeah that will be easy!
You easily saved $1500
Yeah at least! Thanks for watching'n
FYI: If you are going to be installing more than one EV charger in your garage, man up and install a sub-panel in your garage to feed your charges and any additional circuits you might want to add in the future.
That would have been a tip for when the house was being built, too hard in a finished garage
@@Myksgarageno its not too hard...You just gotta pay the electrician to do the work and it will be done properly LOL..
This looks to be a self-incriminating video on installing a Level-II EV home charger without a proper permit in Utah! LOL !!!
Really, who cares!!
Why won't it fit in conduit
My understanding is you shouldn't run a romex NM-B style wire in conduit.
I am going to need to check but I do not believe that wire you have is rated for a 50a continuous load like your model s or y will need. I know for a fact that 6-2 Romeo is not certified for that kind of continuous load. You need 6ga THHN wire.
And why use a 50 breaker!! If you have the ability in your panel it should be a 60a breaker
It doesn't have to be a 60amp breaker, 50amp breaker will only let me charge at 42amps which is fine for 6/2 romex
@@Myksgarage 6/2 Romex is not rated for 50a continuous service and yes, to use 48a you need a 60a breaker. This is assuming you are following electrical code in the US that is.
@@rcuadro 50 amp breaker only handles 40 amp continuous usage. It will trip once you hold 50 amps. There's a 25% safety factor for breakers.
@@Myksgarage I reread the code and Romex is rated for 44a. I guess I don’t understand why install a wall connector, using romex, and on a 50a breaker to limit charging rate. It can’t be due to your panel because you hate two wall connectors installed with each on 50a breakers.
Reasons he probably did it the way he did:
6/2 romex is cheaper than running 4awg THHN
It is easier than piping or using MC
He's not an electrician
Paid an electrician $1400 to install my wall charger. 100’ away from my panel. Money well spent.
Nice!
The only mistake you made was not turning off power to the panel! One wrong step and you’d be dead
Yes
Hotwiring or hot swapping breakers is totally convenient, though:)
You will not find a single EV charger install video on TH-cam without somebody saying something should or could have been done differently to be better. Lol
Yeah that’s for sure!
Using a white wire for hot. Yikes! 🤦
It's the only option with this kind of wire
I don’t think you are allowed to run all those wire through that clamp.
What clamp?
@@Myksgarage You ran the Romex along with the main feed? Always verify max number of romex allowed on a feed through. Have to check both manufacturer and NEC. Otherwise can get too hot without enough airflow around the wires.
@@Myksgarage Most NM-connectors are UL-approved for securing only one NM-cable to a panel box.
I don’t know about you but in Quebec Canada, you need to use an electrician to connect electrical installations from 120V up. It’s a question of insurance as well. I would definitely NOT do the work myself for those 2 reasons. The other reason is what if something happens while charging my 80K$ Tesla Y while connected to the connector I connected myself. Not worth it and bad advice to recommend it. 👎
🤷
Most everywhere in the U.S. you are allowed to do your own electrical work but you may be required to get it inspected when you're done and that would certainly be my recommendation even if it's not a requirement!
Doing things "right" is expensive, and we rednecks in the US love taking the risk. I just installed my 50amp Chargepoint EVSE. Saved over $1000.
Wow so many bad decisions in this video 😂
Well why don't you enlighten us
"it doesn't look good"... its a GARAGE.... who cares how it looks as long as your Tesla cars get the charging they need... what??? do you entertain your friends and house guests in your garage??? if its looks you're concerned with, you're doing this and wasting money for the WRONG reason
I do a lot of entertaining in my garage so I need it to look good
You own TWO Teslas and you're complaining about paying a LICENSED Electrical contractor a reasonable fee for services provided.... shutup. Further, it REQUIRES an electrical permit and inspection to install new electrical equipment. I started in the electrical trade in 1974. Unlike you, I am qualified to make these assessments about performing electrical installations...
The "licensed" electrician I hired to install my first wall connector didn't obtain a "permit".
@@Myksgarage All these Electricians don't want you to do things yourself. They want to charge you more than Doctors charge to do simple wiring jobs.
It’s called a paddle bit
Gotcha 👍