Yea, and also he used (2) red phase instead of black & red, but there is always gonna be critics, especially if this is your field of work (profession) but his work was correct and clean! He gets an 8.5/ 9 out of 10! Good job guy!
#6 copper THWN is sufficient for 60 amps and a #10 AWG copper equipment grounding conductor is an industry standard ground for a 60-amp load. That open KO seal should also be closed up.
at 9:20 or so, you should not use an impact driver for screws (that are probably going into plastic), really easy to strip. use a drill with the torque set down to like '10' out of 20 (20=drill) if you need power driver, hand screwdriver works well too, and much easier to not over torque. Code here in Minnesota is now requiring GFI breakers even for 240 v circuits like my welder and soon to be installed Tesla wall charger.
Why do people including this electrician lands their line side wires first , a great rule of thumb for safety is always land your load side wires first then the line side last , just in case someone accidentally turns on the breaker while you’re landing the wires to the actual wall charger. It’s just like in firearms “Always assume your gun is always loaded “ in electricity “Always assume your wires are always live.” ✌🏽
The electrician i hired did mine for $800 that included the 50 amp rated wire and the 40 amp breaker. He put a range outlet so i can plug the mobil charger. My tesla is in a garage.. so i dont need the wall charger. he also told me that he did about 400 charger installs in his life so far… not bad.. the demand is rising…. Because i only have a model 3 rwd which can only be charged at 32 amp. i don't think i would ever need a 60 amp breaker with 60 amp rated wire,,, for me 32 amp is more than enough to charge a model 3 rwd.. (actually any tesla). Maybe someday if i have extra money i would try a gen3 wall charger, if i can find one used.. but for now the mobile charger does the trick on my m3 rwd…
60/50AMP rated wire is a 6 gauge copper wire and you would use a 50AMP breaker or 60 amp breaker depending on the setup. You should ask your electrician what gauge copper wire he used on your setup.
Quick clean install, but going to echo another comment about torquing the terminal screws in the wire box and breaker. They need to be torqued to 50 lbf . in (pound-force inch) as per manual. Loose wires at terminals will create arc, arcs create electrical fire. Stay safe out there!
Nice, simple installation, similar to mine. However, I'm surprised he used steel pipe straps. Hopefully they're galvanized. Check them, because they may rust. You may consider replacing them with non-metallic (grey) straps, should you run into a rust problem. Thanks for sharing.
Yep, I’m an electrician and I never land the line side first, ever. I never feel comfortable. Plus on union jobs, you can get fired for that, not practicing lock out tag out
Need to use a torque screwdriver on both the breaker and the charger base terminals. No matter how experienced a sparky you think you are, 80% of electricians don't torque their terminals right, which is a problem down the line.
@@filibertosalinas6816 Incorrectly torqued terminals can cause the connection to arc and spark, starting a fire; or it can make the components work harder than they should, which leads to overall component degradation.
If you have under torqued terminals, that leads to increased resistance and increased heat stress, which is what causes fires. So yeah, it’s important. Also it’s a code requirement; 110.14(D)
Is a problem but probably won’t affect the consumer… similar to putting tires on your car with a torque wrench… tight enough is usually good… “MOST” of the time
You don’t need a ground wire the same size as the circuit conductors. That’s big time overkill. NEC table 250.122 allows #10 wire for the ground on a 60a circuit. He went 2 sizes bigger and there is 0 benefit to that. Just more expensive.
@@nolanandert4258 I know, right. They’re out in force on TH-cam like they are the authority on this work. IMO, you want to DIY your own electric vehicle charger, fine. But don’t post videos acting like you actually know what you’re doing.
@@iv29176. It’s in the manual. Minimum 6 awg. The directions are for a 60 amp hook up. I believe 6 awg 90c is rated for 75. Everything is going to need to function at 80% of rated. I’m not an electrician and this comment is purely for entertainment.
Best Tutorial! I used this guide to install my Gen 3 DIY outdoor. The mini 15s/20s breakers was the best idea since I didn’t have space for 60A. Great job
You should include the setup, which is a bit confusing because you join the device to your WiFi network, but still configure it by power cycling and connecting to it as a WiFi hotspot.
@@R0B0T2k I'm getting conflicting information from everywhere. I was getting 6/2 sleeved to run mine but some people are saying you need a neutral. I don't see anywhere, including in the Tesla manual that you need a neutral. All manuals show 2 hot, 1 ground. I'm connecting directly to my main panel with a 60A breaker.
I would recommend TTHN #4 and you can use a #6 or #8 ground in 3/4" conduit. This will allow you around 76A of capacity if you want to add another wall connector and share the load, that's 38a each. The cost difference for me was about $.50 per foot on the #4 wire TTHN vs. staying w/ TTHN #6.
He hired a pro that knew NEC section 625.40 states,. "Each outlet installed for the purpose of charging electric vehicles shall be supplied by an individual branch circuit eat circuit shall have no other outlets."
I missed this one: 2020 NEC table 310.16 does rate thhn in the 90 degree column..... #6 @ 75 amps. However, section 110.14 TERMINAL CONNECTIONS rates 100 amp or less breaker terminals at 60 degrees c unless other wise marked on the breaker. This puts whatever wire that is connected to the breaker in the 60 degree column. This changes your wire rating to #6 @ 55 amps. So, in your example, you could connect #3 copper (#3 @ 85 amps) to the breaker then use 90 degree c "terminal lugs" (wire nuts if you will) to connect to the thhn to use the 90 degree c rating just to get your 75 amps on the circuit. Can a Diy'er do all this, yes! Do I recommend they do all that, no! Just use the 60 degree c column and size their wire. The panel above will get unrulely really fast if they jump through those hoops.
Yeah man, great video. I was worried about installing this at first, but I'm glad it's a lot more simple than I thought. But what I really don't understand, is why you can put a 48 amp load on a 60 amp breaker, but you can only put a 32 amp load on a 50 amp breaker. Shouldn't you be able to charge at 38 amps with a 50 amp breaker? I know if you get too close to the overload threshold current of a breaker, it overheats the element of the disconnect mechanism, and can damage it, making it impossible to turn back on once it turns off, and worst case scenario it can make enough heat to cause some polymer in the fuse box to catch fire. What I don't understand is why you can get within 12 amps of the 60 amp threshold, but you can get within only 18 amps of the threshold of a 50 amp breaker. I'm thinking the element for the diffusing mechanism in the 60 amp is a little more resistant to heat then the element in a 50 amp breaker, which actually allows you to safely get closer to the maximum load of the 60 amp breaker.
Standard installation today for heavy electric equipment at home: Stove, Washing machine, electric drier, and charging for EV comes with: 1 ground, and 2 hots for USA standard. I believe the hots are always 120v x2. For Sweden where I lived before, its automatically a 220/240 outlet and its 1 hot red which is 240v.
You don't have to use Wi-Fi with the Tesla Wall Connector for it to work. The Wi-Fi connection is primarily used for software updates, monitoring charging sessions, and adjusting settings via the Tesla app. If you're not concerned about those features, you can skip the Wi-Fi setup, and the Wall Connector will still function normally to charge your Tesla.
Either stranded or solid wire can be used, but there are some considerations: - Stranded Wire is more flexible, which can make it easier to work with, especially when routing wires through tight spaces. Tesla’s installation manual specifies that if stranded wire is used, the installer should ensure that all strands are securely contained within the terminal connection to prevent issues like overheating. - Solid Wire is generally more rigid and may be more difficult to work with in terms of bending and fitting into terminals. It provides a more stable connection when properly secured. Tesla’s Wall Connector manual doesn't mandate the use of either stranded or solid wire but emphasizes proper installation, ensuring that the wire gauge meets electrical code requirements and is appropriate for the amperage of the Wall Connector. If in doubt, it's always good to follow local electrical codes and consult an electrician!
As per state of charge it’s considered a level 3 not 4 which means it’s weather resistant not proof Asper him if you experience an extreme event hurricane etc it will be compromised . I fitted mine with a spare tire cover . The cable actually helps make it round
What about protection from rain? Is that wall charger completely waterproof on the top side? We plan to install ours outdoors too, so I am wondering if I should put some kind of shelter over the top of the unit?
Your electrician should have installed PVC expansion coupling or couplings. Also it looks like his ground wire was unnecessarily oversized. It looks like he used a full size gram of number six, but the code only requires a number 10 which would have saved money on the additionally by the 2020 code is now required to have a GFCI protection to pole breaker at the end of this VO, he mentions putting quad breakers or twin breakers in to make space in the panel. He should’ve mentioned that those twin breakers are many times not permitted to be installed in certain panels. Always follow the UL list at manufactures instructions further note if you didn’t have the breaker panel outside as close as he did, you would also need an outdoor service disconnect within sight of the charger or not more than 50 feet
I swear not even an actual electrician can do electrical work without getting criticized. There’s still people in the world that wants to pay you’ll to do this work. It’s fine😂
Yes, it is generally okay to install a 60-amp charger on a 200-amp house panel, but there are some important factors to consider: Load Calculation: You need to ensure that the combined load of all devices and appliances in your house, including the 60-amp charger, doesn't exceed 80% of the capacity of the 200-amp panel. This is in line with the National Electrical Code (NEC) recommendations. An electrician can perform a load calculation to confirm whether your panel can handle the additional load. Dedicated Circuit: The 60-amp charger should be installed on a dedicated circuit to avoid overloading other circuits. Wiring: Ensure the wiring used for the charger is properly rated for a 60-amp load. Consulting with a licensed electrician is the best approach to make sure your panel can safely support the new charger.
Me feeling like, "this is easy, if he can do it so can I" Later on the new "house blew up with random guy tried to build a charging station in his house and fucked up" lol
Funny my Wi-Fi won’t stay connected to my phone my iPhone sees the network but says no internet . I was able to update it and adjust the settings but after a few minutes it disappears really strange .
@@tesbros hi thanks for the reply so to change the setting it has a temp access time frame and then times out ?? Also you said you can check stats is there an app or any ways to see what it doing ? Locking it etc . I don’t have my Tesla y yet I have delivery scheduled between 4/11-25 so I’ve got everything installed mats and everything only thing I’m missing is the car lol
@@3767OF4K There isn't an app but once you connect to the wifi access point, you can put the ip address on your manual and you'll be able to access the dashboard. Maybe in the future it'll be more integrated perhaps.
The cost to hire an electrician to install a Tesla Wall Connector varies based on several factors, including the complexity of the installation, local labor rates, and any additional electrical work required (e.g., upgrading your electrical panel or running a long conduit). Here’s a general breakdown: - Basic Installation: If the wiring and panel are already prepared, installation might range from $300 to $700. - More Complex Installation: If additional wiring, conduit, or panel upgrades are required, the cost can rise to $1,000 to $1,500 or more. Factors like wall material (drywall vs. concrete), distance from the breaker box, and regional electrician rates will impact the final price. Some areas may also require permits, which add to the cost. It’s always a good idea to get multiple quotes from licensed electricians for the most accurate estimate.
No external disconnect required, just turn off power at the circuit breaker before installing. Check out pages 2-6 - www.tesla.com/sites/default/files/support/charging/Gen3_WallConnector_Installation_Manual.pdf
Is it good idea to install Tesla charger outside of garage or a house ? How was your experience? Was it damaged or stolen because of the outside the house?
Darren most EVSE are this way. Two hots one ground, neutral isn’t needed because the unit isn’t sending any electricity back to the grid. Now if installing a 1450 receptacle, it’s best to have the neutral installed for future proofing. It wouldn’t be used but, there if needed later on.
@@mostafa685 neutral wire has nothing to do with sending electricity to the grid. It’s simply a conductor tapped off the center of the transformer secondary coil. 240v potential line 1 to line 2. 120v potential line 1 to neutral and line 2 to neutral. No neutral needed is because the charger does not need 120v power.
It's like an electric water heater - there's not 110V loads in the device, so you don't need a neutral. That said, it would have been good to torque the terminals as specified in the installation instructions.
What is available to charge Tesla drivers to pay for electricity? I have solar panels and I can sell it to Tesla drivers or other ev cars. Looking for the app of there is one to charge money to users. Is this possible?
They’re called THHN wires. 6 awg THHN in a conduit is rated for 65 amps so it can go to a 60 amp breaker and charge at 48 amps. If you go with 6 awg NM-B (romex cable), it’s only rated to 55 amps and needs to be powered by 50 amp breaker for a max charging speed of 40 amps.
@@tesbros He charged you $250 for some PVC, wires, and a breaker? You got taken to the cleaners. PVC is dirt cheap and you can get 2 pole 50A breakers for under $30. 75ft (2x25ft) of 6 guage copper wire is $90. All in, you're at maybe $150?
@@someguy5035 $250-$300 is not a lot for materials for car charger install. Wire is more expensive than you're quoting. Breaker $30 ish. Possibly wall box to pull the wire through $10-$15. All the PVC and / or Romex 4/2 or 6/2 -- it's expensive and adds up. $75 per hour labor is super cheap for quality electrical work. $500 labor is about average (even a bit low) for car charger install.
No! Nec 625.54 EVSE (car chargers) attaches a GFCI requirement to the receptacle. Earlier in that section it also requires the charger to have GFCI built in 625.22.
Attached to [shingle] siding. Any excessive tension on the power cord is going to pull the siding right off the wall. Not a secure attachment or installation. JMHO
In this country, house power supplies use one transformer and tap or tie into the middle. This allows a 240 vac transformer to supply both 240 and two 120 lines. Some smart guy thought the lower voltage would be safer and the higher voltage would be okay for large loads. So, two hots. The neutral is tied to ground to give it zero potential or zero volts but return the 120 back to it's half of the transformer. Other countries may find this a dumb way to do things. I think it really depends on what you are used to.
We’re glad you’re here! We get some pretty bad storms in Chattanooga and I haven’t had any issues with either of the units I have that are exposed like this
You can tell the electrician is a master of his craft. His cable management and use of tools is like a work of art.
Indeed, I was an electrician in the Army, that brought back memories
Except he landed the breaker first which is wrong and specially bad that it’s in a video.
Exactly
He didn't torque the termination screws in the breaker
Yea, and also he used (2) red phase instead of black & red, but there is always gonna be critics, especially if this is your field of work (profession) but his work was correct and clean! He gets an 8.5/ 9 out of 10! Good job guy!
So grateful for someone doing a video with a licensed electrician so we don't have to look in the comments for what the installer did wrong. Thanks
Glad it helped
#6 copper THWN is sufficient for 60 amps and a #10 AWG copper equipment grounding conductor is an industry standard ground for a 60-amp load. That open KO seal should also be closed up.
at 9:20 or so, you should not use an impact driver for screws (that are probably going into plastic), really easy to strip. use a drill with the torque set down to like '10' out of 20 (20=drill) if you need power driver, hand screwdriver works well too, and much easier to not over torque. Code here in Minnesota is now requiring GFI breakers even for 240 v circuits like my welder and soon to be installed Tesla wall charger.
Why do people including this electrician lands their line side wires first , a great rule of thumb for safety is always land your load side wires first then the line side last , just in case someone accidentally turns on the breaker while you’re landing the wires to the actual wall charger. It’s just like in firearms “Always assume your gun is always loaded “ in electricity “Always assume your wires are always live.” ✌🏽
I'm not an electrician so not sure but that makes sense!
I'm fresh AF and my last land is always line side
Lock out tag out kids
I install power walls and chargers all the time you’re 100 percent right it’s bad practice
Your wires shouldn’t be landed on the breaker while doing this kiddos lol so it won’t matter
You made it look easy pulling that #6 wires in 3/4
Long runs are easier with staggered wire ends taped and tied. Lube helps. His short run was simple.
Short run, 180 degrees of bend, and super slicks. Easy of a pull as you’re likely to find.
That looked like 1/2 conduit
@@euphoricmonk You'd need 1" minimum to meet code.
The electrician i hired did mine for $800 that included the 50 amp rated wire and the 40 amp breaker. He put a range outlet so i can plug the mobil charger. My tesla is in a garage.. so i dont need the wall charger. he also told me that he did about 400 charger installs in his life so far… not bad.. the demand is rising…. Because i only have a model 3 rwd which can only be charged at 32 amp. i don't think i would ever need a 60 amp breaker with 60 amp rated wire,,, for me 32 amp is more than enough to charge a model 3 rwd.. (actually any tesla). Maybe someday if i have extra money i would try a gen3 wall charger, if i can find one used.. but for now the mobile charger does the trick on my m3 rwd…
60/50AMP rated wire is a 6 gauge copper wire and you would use a 50AMP breaker or 60 amp breaker depending on the setup. You should ask your electrician what gauge copper wire he used on your setup.
Quick clean install, but going to echo another comment about torquing the terminal screws in the wire box and breaker. They need to be torqued to 50 lbf . in (pound-force inch) as per manual. Loose wires at terminals will create arc, arcs create electrical fire. Stay safe out there!
This vid was immensely helpful for insight on how to remove one as well. Moving and locals are charging a grip just to take it off the wall.
So glad it helped, Jack!
Nice, simple installation, similar to mine. However, I'm surprised he used steel pipe straps. Hopefully they're galvanized. Check them, because they may rust. You may consider replacing them with non-metallic (grey) straps, should you run into a rust problem. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the tips!
lol
They’re called straps, not clips.
@@RB-xv4si thanks, I've updated my comment.
Yep, I’m an electrician and I never land the line side first, ever. I never feel comfortable. Plus on union jobs, you can get fired for that, not practicing lock out tag out
Need to use a torque screwdriver on both the breaker and the charger base terminals. No matter how experienced a sparky you think you are, 80% of electricians don't torque their terminals right, which is a problem down the line.
Why is it an issue?
@@filibertosalinas6816 1. The code says so. 2 improperly torqued connections are a big problem.
@@filibertosalinas6816 Incorrectly torqued terminals can cause the connection to arc and spark, starting a fire; or it can make the components work harder than they should, which leads to overall component degradation.
If you have under torqued terminals, that leads to increased resistance and increased heat stress, which is what causes fires. So yeah, it’s important. Also it’s a code requirement; 110.14(D)
Is a problem but probably won’t affect the consumer… similar to putting tires on your car with a torque wrench… tight enough is usually good… “MOST” of the time
what gage wire you use?
Best install video. It was a great idea to have your Professional Electrician doing the work.
Just a heads up.. if inspected, you need an expansion coupling and appropriate clips. Thanks
You don’t need a ground wire the same size as the circuit conductors. That’s big time overkill. NEC table 250.122 allows #10 wire for the ground on a 60a circuit. He went 2 sizes bigger and there is 0 benefit to that. Just more expensive.
250.122 my dude. Non sparkys touching my work I tell you
@@nolanandert4258 I know, right. They’re out in force on TH-cam like they are the authority on this work. IMO, you want to DIY your own electric vehicle charger, fine. But don’t post videos acting like you actually know what you’re doing.
@@RB-xv4si should be putting their money into the game, we know what we are doing and get get it code legal. Pay your local electrician!!
It’s actually safer to make sure ground wire is same size as ungrounded conductors. Especially if home owners are doing a DIY install.
1:53 i know you probably want something custom but tesla does sell colored glass covers.
best video ever. i was able to install mine by myself.
What gauge wire does this use, for a 60 amp breaker?
Also, what is the length of the charging cable? (To the car)
Thank you.
@@iv29176. It’s in the manual. Minimum 6 awg. The directions are for a 60 amp hook up. I believe 6 awg 90c is rated for 75. Everything is going to need to function at 80% of rated. I’m not an electrician and this comment is purely for entertainment.
Best Tutorial! I used this guide to install my Gen 3 DIY outdoor. The mini 15s/20s breakers was the best idea since I didn’t have space for 60A. Great job
They’re called tandem breakers.
You should include the setup, which is a bit confusing because you join the device to your WiFi network, but still configure it by power cycling and connecting to it as a WiFi hotspot.
I installed mine with ROMEX, nails and a rusty screwdriver and it's working fine.
I ran some 6AWG through 3/4 inch it was a pain in my ass. But I had more bends, which might have been why.
I feel like you need 1 inch for 3+1 6AWG.
Ok I see, he used already separated wiring. I used 3+1 6AWG that was sleeved together already.
@@R0B0T2k I'm getting conflicting information from everywhere. I was getting 6/2 sleeved to run mine but some people are saying you need a neutral. I don't see anywhere, including in the Tesla manual that you need a neutral. All manuals show 2 hot, 1 ground. I'm connecting directly to my main panel with a 60A breaker.
@@jeffferraro4981 you don’t need a neutral but, that 6/2 sleeved isn’t up to code for the 60 amp breaker. You need THHN like in this video
Then you should run # 4 wire. For 60 amp breaker.
I would recommend TTHN #4 and you can use a #6 or #8 ground in 3/4" conduit. This will allow you around 76A of capacity if you want to add another wall connector and share the load, that's 38a each. The cost difference for me was about $.50 per foot on the #4 wire TTHN vs. staying w/ TTHN #6.
He hired a pro that knew NEC section 625.40 states,. "Each outlet installed for the purpose of charging electric vehicles shall be supplied by an individual branch circuit eat circuit shall have no other outlets."
I missed this one:
2020 NEC table 310.16 does rate thhn in the 90 degree column..... #6 @ 75 amps.
However, section 110.14 TERMINAL CONNECTIONS rates 100 amp or less breaker terminals at 60 degrees c unless other wise marked on the breaker.
This puts whatever wire that is connected to the breaker in the 60 degree column. This changes your wire rating to #6 @ 55 amps.
So, in your example, you could connect #3 copper (#3 @ 85 amps) to the breaker then use 90 degree c "terminal lugs" (wire nuts if you will) to connect to the thhn to use the 90 degree c rating just to get your 75 amps on the circuit.
Can a Diy'er do all this, yes! Do I recommend they do all that, no! Just use the 60 degree c column and size their wire. The panel above will get unrulely really fast if they jump through those hoops.
Depends if he has a 200amp msp or a 100amp msp.
Was that a neutral or ground? I saw he terminated it on the neutral bar!
They are probably bound together in that panel, since it comes before in inside panel.
Curious, why no Neutral White wire in this install.
Thanks for the video, everything was explained perfectly
Yeah man, great video. I was worried about installing this at first, but I'm glad it's a lot more simple than I thought. But what I really don't understand, is why you can put a 48 amp load on a 60 amp breaker, but you can only put a 32 amp load on a 50 amp breaker. Shouldn't you be able to charge at 38 amps with a 50 amp breaker? I know if you get too close to the overload threshold current of a breaker, it overheats the element of the disconnect mechanism, and can damage it, making it impossible to turn back on once it turns off, and worst case scenario it can make enough heat to cause some polymer in the fuse box to catch fire. What I don't understand is why you can get within 12 amps of the 60 amp threshold, but you can get within only 18 amps of the threshold of a 50 amp breaker. I'm thinking the element for the diffusing mechanism in the 60 amp is a little more resistant to heat then the element in a 50 amp breaker, which actually allows you to safely get closer to the maximum load of the 60 amp breaker.
can you hook up with 100 amp pannel?
From my limited knowledge, as long as you have space and power, yes. But you should consult a certified electrician.
I guess no white neutral wire for this installation ?
Standard installation today for heavy electric equipment at home: Stove, Washing machine, electric drier, and charging for EV comes with: 1 ground, and 2 hots for USA standard. I believe the hots are always 120v x2. For Sweden where I lived before, its automatically a 220/240 outlet and its 1 hot red which is 240v.
What gauge wire did you use. Thanks for the video.
we used a 6 gauge for a 60amp breaker
Thank you.
… do I have to use Wi-Fi with this? or can I ignore the Wi-Fi and just hook it up and it will work?
You don't have to use Wi-Fi with the Tesla Wall Connector for it to work. The Wi-Fi connection is primarily used for software updates, monitoring charging sessions, and adjusting settings via the Tesla app. If you're not concerned about those features, you can skip the Wi-Fi setup, and the Wall Connector will still function normally to charge your Tesla.
Can you use stranded wire or do you have to use solid
Either stranded or solid wire can be used, but there are some considerations:
- Stranded Wire is more flexible, which can make it easier to work with, especially when routing wires through tight spaces. Tesla’s installation manual specifies that if stranded wire is used, the installer should ensure that all strands are securely contained within the terminal connection to prevent issues like overheating.
- Solid Wire is generally more rigid and may be more difficult to work with in terms of bending and fitting into terminals. It provides a more stable connection when properly secured.
Tesla’s Wall Connector manual doesn't mandate the use of either stranded or solid wire but emphasizes proper installation, ensuring that the wire gauge meets electrical code requirements and is appropriate for the amperage of the Wall Connector. If in doubt, it's always good to follow local electrical codes and consult an electrician!
How come you didn't have neutral wire?
In this application, the ground is being used as the neutral.
What type of tool do you use to loosen or tighten the set screws in the charger?
Hex bit 4MM
question: why you don't connect the panel inside the garage. I only have 1 electronic panel inside the garage...........
This is the only panel I have. If yours is in the garage, that's no problem. Use that one.
I wonder if the wall charger is waterproof?
It’s weatherproof and should withstand the elements.
As per state of charge it’s considered a level 3 not 4 which means it’s weather resistant not proof Asper him if you experience an extreme event hurricane etc it will be compromised . I fitted mine with a spare tire cover . The cable actually helps make it round
Brother doin it all on a hot panel
What about protection from rain? Is that wall charger completely waterproof on the top side? We plan to install ours outdoors too, so I am wondering if I should put some kind of shelter over the top of the unit?
The Tesla wall connector is waterproof! I don't have anything over mine and haven't had any issues.
It’s a NEMA 3R rated enclosure so it’s meant to handle rain.
Your electrician should have installed PVC expansion coupling or couplings. Also it looks like his ground wire was unnecessarily oversized. It looks like he used a full size gram of number six, but the code only requires a number 10 which would have saved money on the additionally by the 2020 code is now required to have a GFCI protection to pole breaker at the end of this VO, he mentions putting quad breakers or twin breakers in to make space in the panel. He should’ve mentioned that those twin breakers are many times not permitted to be installed in certain panels. Always follow the UL list at manufactures instructions further note if you didn’t have the breaker panel outside as close as he did, you would also need an outdoor service disconnect within sight of the charger or not more than 50 feet
I swear not even an actual electrician can do electrical work without getting criticized. There’s still people in the world that wants to pay you’ll to do this work. It’s fine😂
No neutral ?
Same thing I’m thinking?
I wonder if he used the green wire for neutral
Does the wall connector turn off when not charging? In other words, does the device constantly draw current when not actively charging the car?
Barely any, you won't even really notice
I think it might draw 1 or 2 watts to keep the wifi active.
Is it ok to install 60amps charger on a 200amps house panel?
Yes, it is generally okay to install a 60-amp charger on a 200-amp house panel, but there are some important factors to consider:
Load Calculation: You need to ensure that the combined load of all devices and appliances in your house, including the 60-amp charger, doesn't exceed 80% of the capacity of the 200-amp panel. This is in line with the National Electrical Code (NEC) recommendations. An electrician can perform a load calculation to confirm whether your panel can handle the additional load.
Dedicated Circuit: The 60-amp charger should be installed on a dedicated circuit to avoid overloading other circuits.
Wiring: Ensure the wiring used for the charger is properly rated for a 60-amp load.
Consulting with a licensed electrician is the best approach to make sure your panel can safely support the new charger.
Thanks for posting this video. Came in very useful! Appreciate it.
Is a white neutral wire not necessary?
Because we use two hot leads (120v x2) which eliminates the common. It is then required to run a ground separately.
how much you get model Y per hr charge on wall charger ?
up to 44 miles per hour
@@tesbros thanks
Thanks for the video
Is it safe to install the wall charger outside? Any updates?
Thank you
Yes, I’ve had no issues
Nice outdoor install Bro! Did you remove the label showing the QR code so no one can re-commission it if the decide to rip it off your wall?
What did this end up running you on the cost to install wall charger and breaker and running the wires?
with wall charger u installes how long it charge the battery to reach 80%?
At 48a, it can inject 44mi/hr into the car.
Me feeling like, "this is easy, if he can do it so can I"
Later on the new "house blew up with random guy tried to build a charging station in his house and fucked up" lol
😂
Not rocket science
Does the green light stay on all day and night when not in use?
Yes
that's the easiest location to install it. siding/exterior surface mounted breaker/ conduit/ no attic crawl wire dropping through drywall.
What happens if it rains on it? Will it turn off or will the car get electrocuted?
No worries, it's waterproof
Funny my Wi-Fi won’t stay connected to my phone my iPhone sees the network but says no internet . I was able to update it and adjust the settings but after a few minutes it disappears really strange .
That’s normal. If you want the Wi-Fi to turn on, hold the button on the charger and the Wi-Fi will turn back on.
@@tesbros hi thanks for the reply so to change the setting it has a temp access time frame and then times out ?? Also you said you can check stats is there an app or any ways to see what it doing ? Locking it etc . I don’t have my Tesla y yet I have delivery scheduled between 4/11-25 so I’ve got everything installed mats and everything only thing I’m missing is the car lol
@@3767OF4K There isn't an app but once you connect to the wifi access point, you can put the ip address on your manual and you'll be able to access the dashboard. Maybe in the future it'll be more integrated perhaps.
What cable was used in this video?
Cooper 60 Amperes
Hello, can we use the Tesla charger to charge different brands of cars?
If you have the right adapter, yes
Hey what was that tool he used to measure the voltage?
Multimeter
Thank you for the video and saving me a lot of headache
What was the cost of installation
The cost to hire an electrician to install a Tesla Wall Connector varies based on several factors, including the complexity of the installation, local labor rates, and any additional electrical work required (e.g., upgrading your electrical panel or running a long conduit).
Here’s a general breakdown:
- Basic Installation: If the wiring and panel are already prepared, installation might range from $300 to $700.
- More Complex Installation: If additional wiring, conduit, or panel upgrades are required, the cost can rise to $1,000 to $1,500 or more.
Factors like wall material (drywall vs. concrete), distance from the breaker box, and regional electrician rates will impact the final price. Some areas may also require permits, which add to the cost. It’s always a good idea to get multiple quotes from licensed electricians for the most accurate estimate.
No main disconnect required?
No external disconnect required, just turn off power at the circuit breaker before installing. Check out pages 2-6 - www.tesla.com/sites/default/files/support/charging/Gen3_WallConnector_Installation_Manual.pdf
The breaker acts as the main disconnect.
Great vid. I'm seeing 2 hot red and one ground, what happens to the neutral wire? Not needed? Thanks!
Not needed!
Where is the neutral? Or does it return via the earth?
In Europe, due to 3 phase, you can use MUCH thinner wires, as current 3x less for 11kW.
3 wire , same AWG ? # 6 ?
This installation outside condition, do you need GFCI circuit breaker ?
Great question, but I would ask your electrician about this. They'll be able to explain what you need.
Is it good idea to install Tesla charger outside of garage or a house ? How was your experience? Was it damaged or stolen because of the outside the house?
My experience has been fine - no damage or issues. but I say do what you’re comfortable with.
Why is there no common wire? If it was a 240v outlet (like for a dryer), it would be two hots, a ground, and a common. Why is this different?
I’m honestly not sure why. I would check the Tesla manual linked in the description and it might help you out
The charger only uses 240 volts it doesn't need 120
something that's using 120v for control wiring in the device itself that's common
Darren most EVSE are this way. Two hots one ground, neutral isn’t needed because the unit isn’t sending any electricity back to the grid.
Now if installing a 1450 receptacle, it’s best to have the neutral installed for future proofing. It wouldn’t be used but, there if needed later on.
@@mostafa685 neutral wire has nothing to do with sending electricity to the grid. It’s simply a conductor tapped off the center of the transformer secondary coil. 240v potential line 1 to line 2. 120v potential line 1 to neutral and line 2 to neutral. No neutral needed is because the charger does not need 120v power.
It's like an electric water heater - there's not 110V loads in the device, so you don't need a neutral. That said, it would have been good to torque the terminals as specified in the installation instructions.
What is available to charge Tesla drivers to pay for electricity? I have solar panels and I can sell it to Tesla drivers or other ev cars. Looking for the app of there is one to charge money to users. Is this possible?
What are these individual electrical wires you use? I did not see material on blog either
They’re called THHN wires. 6 awg THHN in a conduit is rated for 65 amps so it can go to a 60 amp breaker and charge at 48 amps. If you go with 6 awg NM-B (romex cable), it’s only rated to 55 amps and needs to be powered by 50 amp breaker for a max charging speed of 40 amps.
Expansion joint always on pvc. Shorter runs are not code, but who but it anyways. PVC straps for PVC, this is code
W. S. The price instalación??
what type of wire is he using
THHN copper 6 gauge electrical wire
@@tesbros Thanks
Only ground, no neutral?
What size cable he use?
Did he not glue any of the pvc together?
he did! he used pvc glue
Can you keep it outdoor??
Yes
Is it more expensive to have a 60 amp circuit/line installed vs the more popular 50 amp 14-50 outlet?
Probably won't be too much more. I would talk to electricians in your area and see what quotes look like.
I assume you mean nema 14-50
@@pinkiepie1656 fixed
How much did the electrician charge (labor) and how much was the parts.
75 per hour for labor and about 250-300 for parts.
@@tesbros He charged you $250 for some PVC, wires, and a breaker? You got taken to the cleaners. PVC is dirt cheap and you can get 2 pole 50A breakers for under $30. 75ft (2x25ft) of 6 guage copper wire is $90. All in, you're at maybe $150?
@@someguy5035 Most charge $500 for labor only......for installation.....
@@someguy5035 $250-$300 is not a lot for materials for car charger install. Wire is more expensive than you're quoting. Breaker $30 ish. Possibly wall box to pull the wire through $10-$15. All the PVC and / or Romex 4/2 or 6/2 -- it's expensive and adds up. $75 per hour labor is super cheap for quality electrical work. $500 labor is about average (even a bit low) for car charger install.
Great vid Man !! But is not danger to charge that if it rains ??
Nope!
Hi thax, for the video, can you install it outside? Is it protected from rain /snow /heat
Yes
Wires should be torqued on the panel.
What’s the size double pole breaker size
60 Amperes
why wasnt the neutral being used?
EVs only want two hots and a ground. The chargers can run off a straight 240v without 120v.
Great video installation. 👍🏾
#10 wire for the ground?
Looks like # 6....nec 250.122 allows for #10 copper for up to 60 amps for equipment grounding conductor.
Since it’s outside would it need a Gfci breaker?
Tesla manual clearly states not to use GFCI.
It has a GFCI built in
No! Nec 625.54 EVSE (car chargers) attaches a GFCI requirement to the receptacle. Earlier in that section it also requires the charger to have GFCI built in 625.22.
Attached to [shingle] siding. Any excessive tension on the power cord is going to pull the siding right off the wall. Not a secure attachment or installation. JMHO
Is that wire 6/3?
Probably THWN
What size PVC did you use?
3/4 inch
Was this schedule 40 or 80 PVC?
how much did it cost cuz I have one outside my house also
Thought I could do this…. Nah… some costs in life are in-avoidable.
It seems you hired a professional. It can totally be DIY.
Great info thank you.
L1 & L2 are live & neutral or 2 phase live? Because in the country I reside it's Live (hot), Neutral & Ground.... I just want to be sure
yes L1 & L2 function as both live and neutral.
@@moop_fogo yes that’s correct.
In this country, house power supplies use one transformer and tap or tie into the middle. This allows a 240 vac transformer to supply both 240 and two 120 lines. Some smart guy thought the lower voltage would be safer and the higher voltage would be okay for large loads.
So, two hots. The neutral is tied to ground to give it zero potential or zero volts but return the 120 back to it's half of the transformer.
Other countries may find this a dumb way to do things. I think it really depends on what you are used to.
Well done on the wiring. Any concerns or issues with the unit being out doors in regards to weather? No, I do not have an EV. Just trying to learn.
We’re glad you’re here! We get some pretty bad storms in Chattanooga and I haven’t had any issues with either of the units I have that are exposed like this
Thanks for this video man! Super helpful cheers 🤙
Do you need to perform insulation resistance and loop impedance tests in the US?
Not at this amperage
It’s done often in larger installation but typically not on something like this.
So the charging head is 100% weather proof??
Yes, the wall charger is waterproof and is totally fine in the elements.