I was WRONG! The Tesla Gen 3 Charger is the WORST!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ค. 2024
- I was WRONG! The Tesla Gen 3 Charger is the WORST!
A few years ago I raved about how good the Tesla Gen 3 Wall Charger was. However, as time has gone on and many other options are now on the market. I feel pretty confident in saying that this is now one of the worst. Despite looking the part, with its futuristic looks this charger actually lives pretty far in the past. With no active pen fault built in, and the most annoying useless WIFI! Telsa is still leading the game with electric vehicles but what on earth is going on with their chargers...
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⏱️Timestamps
00:00 I Was Wrong?
04:05 Fatal Mistake
06:54 The First Time
11:16 Angle Drilling Confidence
15:40 A Little Coffee
16:33 Winning Again
18:06 Missing Tools
20:42 Losing My Mind
23:14 This Is The Problem
26:35 Getting Violent
28:51 Love Hate Relationship
32:49 Out To Get Me
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Had a TWC Gen3 installed a few months ago. Paired the unit myself in 10 minutes and haven’t had a problem since. Quality bit of kit.
Tip - many IoT devices are 2.4Ghz, including the Tesla Gen 3. To have a happy experience turn off the 5Ghz network, do your pairing, and then turn the 5Ghz back on - if they are separate don't try using the 5Ghz network.
2.4ghz is perfect for most and I wouldn't want that to change. Typically they don't need a lot of throughput and benefit better from the extra distance the signal travels on 2.4ghz
I had to do this a few weeks ago when connecting a WiFi smart plug, total pain heading to silence the 5Ghz to complete the pairing, then remembering to put it back.
@@welshdave5263 just split your 5ghz and 2.4ghz channels and then only connect things to the one that is better for that device
And also the Tesla Gen3 (like many other IoT devices) also won't work with WPA3.
Need to have a network, or sub-network on WPA3
This. 2.4 GHz, 802.11b/g/n
Fun fact. You guys installed my gen 3 charger and it works wonderfully with my wifi network. No issues whatsoever. It was the blue tesla unit and you guys have a video of it :-)
I have install many of the Tesla Gen3 Wall Connector and have had zero issues with connectivity of the Gen3 Wall Connectors.
That is a very good looking charger!
@@artisanelectrics and finally got the matching car!!!
@@michaelholliday100 yeah but things working well makes for shit youtube views
Why not use ethernet cable . It's not difficult to put a socket on the thing
If you want to coil cables so that they don’t twist the cores internally you need to ‘figure of 8’ the cable. This means that you reverse the direction of each alternate turn as you coil the cable. Then when you pull the cable away from where it is coiled it will always come away straight and not twist the internal cores. When people coil up a cable around their hand and elbow it guarantees a damaging twist to the internal cores because each turn reinforces the twist of the previous turn.
I coil in an 8 around my hand and elbow
When doing record engineering cables have a memory, any forcing will damage the core so we always use loose coils basically the way they were originally packaged so forcing a figure of 8 I'd say also isn't ideal. Studios have cables that are used and stowed numerous time and last decades.
Great video. "IT specialist" here. I think the problem you probably have with connecting the unit to WiFi is just poor signal strength. This is probably why the problem you're experiencing is "intermittent" and why you couldn't replicate the problem whilst recording. It will largely be situational depending on the location of the wireless access point you're trying to connect the charging point to. The Tesla wall charger also only supports 2.4GHz frequencies so wireless networks which broadcast the same network name (SSID) on both 2.4 and 5GHz frequencies "may" have issues connecting if the access point tries to prioritise the 5GHz bands. If that's the case, you can disable 5GHz temporarily on the access point / router to pair the wall charger and then turn the 5GHz radio back on after, however this requires a little IT know how. I think the mistake Tesla made was to only provide an option for WiFi connectivity to connect the unit to the internet as supposed to providing an RJ45 ethernet connection. Yes it's an extra cable, however you're running a cable for power anyway so why not provide the option. The decision to not include this in their unit was probably one of cost I suspect... however on a £450 unit, an extra £10-£20 is insignificant. Hopefully Tesla include this in their next revision. Great video guys, big fan.
It is simple
they fit loads of brands... I'm guessing others connect easier and if you are by the charger its easy to see wifi by just looking at your phone and if that connects and the charger unit doesn't then its not signal strength.
Access Points or wireless routers only prioritise 5Ghz over 2.4GHz if the client supports both. It’s prioritised on a per client basis, not a global basis. I’m sorry to say that it is not relevant here as the Tesla unit only supports 2.4GHz which means it wont even see the 5GHz band so it certainly wont try and connect to it.
"IT Specialist" here. Just to fly in and say that the charger sucks. I've places the router right next to the charger (within 0.4m) and it still disconnects from the wifi and takes at least 20 minutes to connect via the Tesla App. Resetting the charger is impossible because I can't remove the charger from my app myself and reconnecting it whenever it disconnects is a huge pain.
Also, it doesn't charge. Will be requesting a refund from Tesla.
@@mhvdm Have you tried a mesh network instead ?
Really enjoyed this one 😂
Jordan’s noise/laugh when the drill hits bullseye. The noise when the rake hits Reuben’s head. The slating of the customers new pride and joy. What’s not to like?!
Classic
Normally devices for IoT have cheaper wifi chips since they don't have lot of traffic which normally don't support high density networks so that could be the issue. Another issue would be mixing 5Ghz with 2.4Ghz since most cheaper wifi chips only support 2.4Ghz and when you do a internet connection if you don't ask the router for the correct connection it might get messy fast and delay the connection. For my network since I do a lot of IoT I have a different wifi network called IoT which is a low density 2.4Ghz network with legacy support. I have a ubiquiti network setup so I have everything supported in my home but for most common households having different wifis or network setups might not be possible so it might cause some problems for some connections.
I got the gen 3 mostly based on your original video and have had 0 issues with it. I do have it on a 2.5g only wifi network which fixes the issue of connecting it.
Tech stuff, we have the same issue in the cctv/intruder alarm security industry, the old school guys are great at running cables but really struggle with the modern connectivity, apps etc.
It's not about the wrapped cable's untidy look only, the cable sheathing itself will begin to look shabby within quite a short time due to scraping against the rough bricks every time winding and unwinding it.
Hi, has it got a CT clamp to monitor the house consumption and ramp down the car charging if it exeeds the maximum rating? Can it be installed on a 60A main fuse? Thanks.
Love this video, very informative and I like the way you coach your apprentice by testing him with knowledge questions during the installation! Where my switchbox is located is on the opposite side of house to my garage where tesla wall connector is to be installed. Just like you mentioned in the video, I thought the installation should be quite easy until my electrician told me it is gonna take a solid 4 -5 hours to do the wire routing properly.
I have two of these and both connected. What I learned with both of them is you connect to the WiFi and wait for it to connect. Both connected and updated on their own after about 30 minutes.
is it possible to run a cat5 cable, possibly using data over power adaptors? Do any other of the chargers have wired data connection? expecting a customer to have a wifi extender is a bit much. if chargers are wifi only, how many have 5GHz, so less likely to get interference than 2.4GHz
As you like the button to open the charge flap could the Tesla tethered cable be wired into other brands of chargers and still work/Open sesame
I used the Garo PEN fault detection system last year on a hot tub installation. When the hot tub company delivered and commissioned the hot tub, they had never come across this before.
Great content as always.
Thanks for sharing
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You need to go onto their home router and separate the 2.4 and 5ghz network then connect the 2.4 and it will work. All this smart stuff is a bit tricky because most sparkies don’t have the knowledge to set it up but most IT people don’t have the knowledge to install and those that do can’t do it meeting regs unless they get the council to inspect
Is hardwired ethernet not an option?
@@ZachGrady not on TWC Gen3, but that would be my preferred connection type indeed
Agreed; if they're going to put that much effort in to a snazzy design, having a mess of cable detracts... It's sort of like the fact that Dyson doesn't understand that auto-retracting cords are one of the biggest/best developments in vacuums in the last 20 years! You've got a super snazzy vacuum, but you're stuck manually winding cable around two hooks. I guess the designers @ Dyson don't actually do that much "hoovering". ;-)
Mayybe you put the retracting cable into the car!!!
I had a similar experience with an emporia unit not connecting to my nest WiFi. I had to connect the unit to my phone via hot spot WiFi, update the emporia firmware once it got internet access. After that it was able to connect to the Nest WiFi as normal
I think the older round podpoints are the best for making the cable not look awful
Which cable did you use for the wall connector? The five-core 2.5 mm armoured cable? Thanks for the answer.
is it beater to mount the unit on the wall , then take it off the wall before you drill the hole for the cable then your not expediently going to damage the case.
I believe that everything that's fixed, should just have a wired connection. Very happy with my wired SMA charger over here :)
SMA makes very solid hardware, we install their solar inverters.
Wired is always best. Full duplex communications for a start.
@@JoshuaBurgess I have their inverter as well, and it communicates with the charger to maximize the use of solar for the car. Very pleased with the system so far 👍
Very much so! It isn't just 'old-school' to think that, but in terms of performance (with only a few exceptions, bandwidth can suffer if 'line impedance' isn't carefully matched) wired is the most trouble free, secure and highest performing way to do things.
Really like this series/vids - so useful - thanks for posting. Qs . . . do you need an RCD at both ends of a run of SWA, if at all? High integrity circuit and Tesla wall charger having in-built RCD? No built-in PEN protection though. . . like the Easee One which presumably could be wired off any (non-RCD protected) 40A MCB?
I've had loads of issues at home connecting smart devices to things at home as they run on a 2.4ghz frequency. Where the WiFi router broadcasts both 2.4 and 5ghz, if my phone is required to setup the device then it will default to 5ghz frequency. To get around this you need to access the router and disable 5ghz while setting up your devices.
Hi are electricians allowed to pull main fuse for the meter.
Thanks
I wrote on your first ver3 vs ver2 charger video. An electrician myself. I have installed versions 3s. There has never been a problem getting the wifi set up. The customer does it anyway. I just had a customer link up 2 of them sharing on one 60a circuit and he did it with not much trouble. Munro live did a overview and found the design to be very well executed.
Your WIFI commissioning problem, if you are mounting the Charge Point outside, may actually be the windows on the house. If the house has newer windows and they have Low-E coating on them you will likely have an issue. The Low-E coating can inhibit WIFI signals. I experienced this on my house. I was having trouble with my WIFI in the backyard, finally I actually added an additional access point and mounted it on a little shelf in the window of my workshop, on the inside! Still had shitty WIFI, as soon as I opened the window and moved the access point outside the window, boom, fabulous WIFI. Ended up getting an outdoor access point and installing it on the side of the garage.
Before I had my Tesla wall charger V2 installed, I installed a mesh network node in the garage, right next to the wall charger and another node in my bedroom above the garage (the garage node is too far away, and has too many walls to go through to get to the router so... The router node talks to the bedroom node, then the signal goes through the floor to the garage node. I have 6 nodes in total spread around the house level. Never had a problem EVER. Maybe Mr Artisan you might like to install a mesh network as well as the wall charger at very site - they work brilliantly. The Gateway, Powerwall and Inverter can all use it as well as your phone.
Pairing devices wether through WiFi or Bluetooth always seems to have bad moments now and then, sometimes when I start my car up, the stereo pairs up straight away with my portable MP3 player, other times Pressing play and pause a few times will get the stereo to see it. Other times have to go through settings and select ‘connect via Bluetooth’. But was wondering if the customer had a decent router and also if it has positioned in an ideal place. A lot of home owners like to put them on a low tv cabinet to the side or on the floor almost hidden out the way, and just taking off the floor and putting it on tv cabinet next to tv can mean you can now receive WiFi in upstairs rooms. How often do you get customers that either buy their own chargers, or even consumer units for you to install? Because I’d imagine most ev customers just ask for a ‘general quote’ to have a suitable charger installed. Or at least ask you, “what do you think about having this brand fitted?” A friend of mine who fits car audio, will refuse customers who want the cheap Android Auto headunits fitted, even if they’ve supplied it themselves, as he knows they’ll be back in a few months with problems or just unsatisfied with it.
Did you check the polarity of ruebens plug top connections before you plugged in the charger?.
Was looking for what voltage and amperage a Tesla charged at. I was an electrician in the USA and looking for how the chargers are wired. Hopefully we won't need all the equipment you show to hook up chargers. Have seen many home chargers that hook up to a 240V 30 amp or 50 amp receptacle with a plug.
Yes figure of “8” the cable to avoid damage over time. This will also avoid EMF in other instances where flex is not fully unwound.
Probably better to have some kind of separate bracket next to the charger to allow figure of “8” and make the charger look uncluttered. Agree about mastic to stop water running into the charger board but would have installed a bush and coupler.
Good job though lads.
Fig 8 will make ZERO difference to "EMF". If you have conductors next to each other carrying equal and opposite currents (such as Live and Neutral for example) their magnetic fields will cancel out so no inductance. The fig 8 myth came from coiled cables becoming hot and people believing that to be due to inductance, IT ISN'T it's simply down to resistive heating and inability of heat to escape, Fig 8 creates more air gaps and a larger surface area for heat to escape.
@@mfx1 When you think about it, that makes sense about the inductance Martin, so I have to agree with you annoyingly. In my defence, hanging by my finger tips, maybe the figure of 8 would help with resistive load heat build up, because it’s 2 coils effectively, and also reversing the could will lessen the internal damage to twisted cores. Humble pie has been eaten. (Going to test it though)
hi great informative video as usual , one observation it might be because of parallax or could it be not straight on the wall - i'm sure its the former ;-)
The problem with wifi is almost universally related to the router configuration... Signal not strong enough, signal strong but too noisy to be useful (both related to the distance between the router and the device), router configured in a non standard way, repeaters in the way, etc...
It’s probably the dual band 5GHz sharing 2.4GHz and 5GHz. Happens a lot with Smart Home and IoT, they come with a cheap wifi chip that can’t determine or filter out which BSSID is the 2.4GHz to use.
If they request the connection and get the 5GHz, it just times out instead of connecting. And it doesn’t know why it failed, because it is cheap, ie it doesn’t attempt the next MAC radio Device or understand how to. Usually it’s something like an ESP8266 chip, $1 or less.
So it just tries to reconnect to 5GHz again as it’s in the top of the list of connecting MAC radios, ie the strongest signal or best to connect with when you have a shared broadcast name with 2-10+ repeaters that all announce themselves with the same channel name.
Because the names are identical, they have to know the MAC and connect to the MAC, not the Name. The problem is repeaters won’t work if you hard-connect to a single MAC, and if the router changes then you have to re-register the WiFi.
It’s why people recommend a legacy 2.4GHz channel name on the router for connecting old/cheap devices that can’t differentiate and only work on 2.4GHz or 802.11b/g
Agree. If it has to be signed up with a phone, always go 2.4Ghz. Most home routers have out of the box one signal that is supposed to support 2.4 and 5 but that is not the case as most IoT devices dont seem to work . So the only way its to create two different wifi connections for 2.4 and 5.
@@B_T_B Rather not recommend that for regular use 2 separate SSID's for 2.4/5Ghz, but instead create an extra 2.4 Ghz network on a separate SSID for IOT devices that don't support 2.4/5Ghz mixed in one SSID.
Actually in this case, the Tesla 3rd Gen charger only supports 2.4GHz WiFi
Could be the density of the network too. I do a lot of IoT and esp8266 and some eps32 don't like high density networks so I just keep my it wifi at VT20s
This!!! so very true!!
I've had similar experiences with embedded/smart devices and WiFi networks. If your WiFi is dual band (5 & 2.4 GHz), try disabling the 5GHz when doing the pairing. I have no idea why but sometimes that helps.
5GHz doesn't penetrate walls as well as 2.4GHz so the range is often less, this is probably why
@@henryeadie7972 Most of these embedded devices don't have 5GHz radios, so they wouldn't try to to connect to that signal, but somehow it seems they effect each other.
@@henryeadie7972 Here is an example, a car pulls beside you with the Subwoofers cranked, thump, thump thump, but you hear no vocals. It is difficult to isolate or stop Bass from going through structure, trees, buildings etc. So, in an open field 5.0 GHz will travel much further than 900 MHz or even 2.4 GHz. The higher the frequency the larger the bandwidth, the more data that can be carried in a given period of time. That is why a 900 MHz Router may be able to service and entire home and with a 5.0 GHz Router you may need a Mesh Router with 2 Remotes to cover the same area adequately.
@@Dries007BE Usually what happens is the device you are using to pair IoT device is on the 5 Ghz network and passes that to the the Iot device, which of course it can't use so doesn't pair. Lifx Globes are classic example of this.
You can buy a little bluetooth button for the tesla charing port to open with other chargers. Always a nicht feature with my wall connector...
We often have issues connecting chargers via wifi, much prefer hardwired but many have gotten rid of the hardwired possibility such as the Anderson. It is definitely a shame as many customers have called about their cars not charging in the last few days as the lightning storms have played havoc with peoples wifi.
Sounds as if the need battery backups for their routers and whole house surge protectors...
@@michaelholliday100 A Tesla powerwall will solve all those problems, and keep all your lights & TV running. (I have one)
Btw Jordan, I checked with my DNO and they said they are OK for me to have a mini CU in the meter box. It's gonna save the sparky a whole lot of work trying to get to the CU 😄
I was all set for a Tesla charger but when researched learned there was a loads of extra stuff that was required. My installer has recommended the Wallbox Pulsar Max - any thoughts on this charger from you guys at Artisan?
We have never tried the wall box so can’t connect I’m afraid
The WiFi connectivity for the Gen3 is only available also after it is turned on (from off state). After a few minutes, around 5-10 mins, it switches off its hotspot network
Tesla manual said no rcd protection required on the 3rd gen
Built in aprently, is this true
Please correct me when i am wrong,but isnt it cheap to do it like this,because there is no KwH meter in that box??Or am i wrong because i am a dutch electrician.Have i mist it about the meter?
31:00 Why are those boxed not connected and the cable on the bottom not clipped to the wall?
We have a Burndy cable gauge tool here in the US it’s a cable measuring tool really useful. Get Reuben a set of calipers and just get him measuring. Just to get him familiar with cable sizes stranded and solid
Hello I was just wondering why don't you use a small Bit of plastic pipe over the drill bit when you are drilling walls.
Tip: For armoured cable I use a Monument pipe-cutter (with a Stainless steel cutting-wheel). That works GREAT for scoring SWA (once you've got the knack). Even on 20mm (dia) 3-core armoured cables, it does a great job and is so much better than struggling around with a junior hacksaw. (I'm a JIB Gold card electrician by the way).
Of course they have the rotary cutters. They have been around for decades. What electrician would even consider using a hacksaw let alone many do it yourselfers?
Jordan in the spec sheet the Telsta Wall Connector is only 2.4ghz 802.11b/g/n. Some wifi combine the 2.4 and 5 ghz networks on the one SSID. This can confuse devices with only 2.4, Next time you have issues login to the router, not the rooter (I'm an Aussie). And select the setting to isolate the 2.4 and 5ghz, or uncombine them. Every router is different. Keep up the good work.
As an "IT Specialist" lol. You might have had issues with your WiFi in your office due to 2.4GHz vs 5GHz compatibility with the charger. Some prefer 5GHz over 2.4GHz however, the charger may not fully support 5GHz.
Regarding the earth protection: With an external mounted charger like this, could one not just install an earth rod near the charger dedicated to the charger and not use the CPC from the main supply? Other than the car, what other extraneous metal could the customer touch when unplugging the car? Does that meet the regs?
You should get the freq right 2,4 vs. 5 is the key to your problem... Just a heads up. I have installed about 50isch of those and never a prob with the wifi...
I've noticed two earth/cpc conductors being wired in the top of the contactor. This must be the armored earth and the fly lead going to the armoring. They looked liked two different sizes? 4mm for the armored and 2.5 for the fly lead. Are you allowed to use different sizes on the same screw terminal for that specific contactor ?
The tesla unit has inbuilt dc leakage. The megger mft 1742+ which is the tester they are using does an auto dc leakage test, worryingly its the bit when Jordan says he didn't know the mft did it
The issue with connecting at first is that you might not have the signal strength to maintain the connection once it's in location, I used a very old Wi-Fi repeater that I had kicking around and it connected to that no problem, I get what you mean though, a lot of installation points are outside homes or in garages through layers of drywall and cement
Nice installation l really liked the way you had the cable first it looked so tidy lovely job guys 👏😎🇮🇪
If they have an issue with pairing up possibly from distance to the router then connect to the customers router and then create a mobile hotspot with the same details and place that in the middle of the router and the charge point.
Why do you need the extra box installation??? The 3 gen. version has RCD
I bought a 24" x 24" lockbox into which my electrician installed the Tesla Wall EVSE at the driveway. So, the EVSE is never seen by anyone and the box looks great. I don't have wifi at my house, so I didn't try to connect to the EVSE, and my electrician told me that these units "self commission" so no need to fuss with wifi at all. ( USA ). Also, I have been told that the GEN3 units have never been sent OTAs. My takeaway is: no need to let wifi ruin your day, mate.
That stuffing gland beneath the Permali box is begging to be the source of trouble. When the first heavy rain comes in that direction it will run down that wall and into the PEN loss detector box and probably cause a fire. You should have used a 25mm adaptor and a piece of 25mm conduit glued in to create a watertight seal.
'first heavy rain', 'probably cause a fire'. Talk about overstating the risk. The chances are you could have it that way for a million years without causing a fire.
@@sailingoctopus1 I'm an electrician with 40 years in the industry, I didn't take the time to write that because it's a hypothetical chance. It WILL happen!
I might be wrong but I didn't think we are allowed to install tethered anymore? Or is that just public type2?
I agree. I spent one hr getting wifi to work after the installation. Told electrician im a network computer tech so i should be okay to figure that piece out. I wonder if their 2.4ghz receiver is crap. The doc has a weird requirement saying you should disable mac filtering on your wifi access point. Found that weird as they specified the mac address clearly on their docs.
Will there be any selectivity issues now there is a Type A RCBO installed upstream from the type B Tesla RCD?
There might be. It depends where the fault occurs. If the fault occurs downstream from the RCD in the EV charger, then either the RCD in the charger or the RCBO in the CU is going to trip, but you don't know which one.
The user will be protected against electrocution but the question is what circuit and loads in the house are going to be powered down when the RCBO in the CU trips.
I loved your original Gen3 review. It endorsed the decision that I had made. I even asked if you could install it or recommend- in London). Lizzie Y was first plugged in mid July 2022. The Gen3 has done its job perfectly until until a couple of weeks ago. Could you possibly take a moment to give me a possible diagnosis before I call in an electrician.
So, I plugged in as usual and noticed that the charge rate was only 14 Amps. I stopped it charging, upped to 24Amps on the app and restarted. It jumped back to 14 Amps for a while and stopped altogether. It has not charged since. The T on the port turns to Red when I try. I have some power to the wall point because the green light is on. Lizzie Y charges fine from the Granny via 13Amp socket and also from the Tesla SC. I have never used a non Tesla supercharger.
Again, I would really appreciate your opinion. Thank you.
Jordan, are you not able to put a side cable holder on the left hand side of the charger and then put it in place on the right side. You can have the roller on the left side of the charger with the last bit going to the side female placement to the charger. Just a thought!!!
How about a small plastic box underneath where the cable loop is stored and just the connector end and tail exits into the wall charger.
Thanks for the video - which area in the UK do you operate in?
I have a 6yr old Mennekes charger. Electrician moved it for me to a new home, but was super hesitant....talked about lack of 6mA protection for example. What's the deal here...is it safe, should a PEN fault dectector be enough to resolve v a new charger?
Thank you so much. I am actually going to finally install my wall connector tomorrow. I will temporarily power up my wal connector first before installing it. I am a electrician too
Well, I would never get one of these in the video. Being in the US, I just got a 220 volt outlet installed in my garage and the Tesla mobile cable kit. The mobile cable works well for me and the cable is just the right length to reach to my plug in port on the vehicle. Plus the mobile cable kit is allot cheaper than these special chargers. 220 volts is fast enough charging for me.
Thanks for the video on your installation of these special chargers.
I work in IT and IoT devices have always been a "hit-or-miss" when it comes to joining a wifi network.
It took about 3 attempts to get my Tesla wall connector joined to my network. Plus, it really doesn't gain much besides updating the firmware. I was expecting more from them.
At least you have more options than in the US. Here, Tesla uses a proprietary connector, so if you don't use their unit, you need to fiddle with adapters.
If you have like cisco or Ubiquiti or other enterprise level hardware you should be able to make a different network with low density and legacy support for 2.4Ghz which normally should support any chip and possibly fix the issue with the tesla thing.
@@antoniogoncalves705 I have ubiquiti hardware and I cannot for the life of me get compatible signals for some IoT devices. In case it is useful to anyone... a workaround I have is... temporarily rename my real connection SSID... get an old basic router and name it what the original network SSID was called.... connect your devices... turn off old router and rename the SSID back to original. Works a treat (only have to do this the odd time i encounter a new IoT device that I have trouble with)
@@ciaranflynn6291 I never had issues after configuring my network properly. What devices are you trying to connect? Do you have legacy support for 2.4Ghz network or IoT network if you have one. What channel width do you use for 2.4Ghz? Do you SSIDs have weird chars?
Also do you have 5Ghz separated from 2.4Ghz or the prefer 5Ghz option on in the unifi devices?
Does this charger requires an earthing rod installation, or it has a builtin PEN protection?
If the location of the charging point is so crap & flakey for the WiFi to connect & commission by doing the connection right next to the access is not going to address the connection issues that will exist with it when its installed in its permanent location.
Also WiFi is symmetrical so its useless having a high-powered Access Point when the IoT device radio cannot reach back to the AP.
What is your average charge to install a Tesla wall connector this way?
From my experience the installation was done like a piece of cake by my local electrician, but connecting to the wifi was a nightmare. It was purely due to my hyperoptic broadband in the UK was using the same name for 5ghz and 2.4ghz network and it was supporting WPA2/3 passpharase which the TWC cannot detect the password., I have to change that to WPA/WPA2 for pass phrase for home wifi and it worked like magic. This piece of information was widely missing from their guide/notes
Try a HyperVolt. So many people complaining about their wifi connectivity. It barely works.
My car is one meter away from the charger... I would actually like to have a short cable instead... would look way better! But Tesla doesnt offer that anymore :(
Would it be able to shorten it?
Do they offer a plug-in option vs wired option?
Have you got to the bottom of why the manufacturers are moving away from wired connections? and why can't the data run over the power line? My PC does
The Australian Tesla wall charger installation instructions specifically stated NO POWER LINE NETWORKS. They had to install a new transmitter near the router, and a repeater in the garage. Once they got it all up and running, and then left, I ripped it all out and used my own mesh network. I tried to explain to the chinese workers, but they had a blank look on their faces.
I’d offer clients the charger cable accessories for all ev chargers for wall mount: cable holder, charging end holder-separate from built in one if wanna use, cable holder w/ auto coil/tether and so on. Not only can you sell some accessories, but in some cases give them a better UX & looks as well, just as fyi as know companies that do this, and the accessories can be relatively inexpensive when bought en mass
Great looking work, and always fun to see you out in field w/ tools, and enjoy Rueben as he’s so funny; stepping on a rake 😂
Way to much current for Auto Coilers - Evidently you are not an electrician. With the amount of current that any brand of Wall Connectors draws you would have a very dangerous heat issues. Wires need air to cool, by wrapping multiple the wire against itself will cause so much heat build up that you will exceed the temperature rating of the wire, that will cause higher resistance which intern will cause higher heat and you could end up with a fire or damaged connection points... In the US wire can be found with one of three temperature ratings, 60 degrees Celsius (140 degrees Fahrenheit), 75 degrees Celsius (167 degrees Fahrenheit) and 90 degrees Celsius (194 degrees Fahrenheit). It is not hard to exceed 60 degrees Celsius with Cable placed in an attic of a garage or house. In a small enclosure like a wire winder it would get exceedingly hot.
29:51 yeah, not a fan of the built in holder, as makes cable look like yard hoses, a mess, and what to do w/ it, lol.
Like the cable holder clip and tether along w/ charger holder that can buy separately from diff vendors to make this look better, imo. Also find that over time, depending on use and such, the pinch point of cable for charging coming from button can get pinched a tad over time; as seen couple older chargers, but it’s like any cable that used and wound, they eventually do break down, & know some hold up better than others over time¹
¹ not saying this charger is crap or has issues, or cable will fail when used; just saying what happens over time and what seen….along w/ my opinion
I don't have an EV yet, but when I do I expect to treat the cable very similar to a garden hose. Though I want it to look reasonably neat, my guess is that what will be most important over the years will be the speed of handling the cable. I'd only want a few big loops to make usage as quick and easy as possible. Now, I do live in a colder climate and I plan to keep it plugged in every day in the winter - so I better get used to the sight of the cable. My second priority when locating the charging point was to minimize any tripping hazard and to illuminate the area at night.
Not essential, but, asking as DiYer, wouldn't you use ferrules with flexible wires?
I wonder; in North America do electricians install a PEN fault detector when fitting the Tesla charge point?
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Stick to using Zappi, V2.1 EV charger, no wifi issues, but it also has a Ethernet port if you have wifi issues ...😁
Thank you for mentioning the fact about the extra stuff for the TESLA charger install. I have a charger, which is dying, and I'm looking to get a new one. Important to know that it's more than a couple of hours of work
Regarding the extra ”kit” that you claimed is needed like the PEN faulr protection. Isn’t this due to the way you choose to connect this charger? Normally you would feed it of the main distribution from the house which already should have the PEN protection right? The Tesla WC has the inbuilt RCD, typ A + DC 6 mA protection specifically needed for this application (charging an EV). As the Tesla has built in planning for when you want to charge etc I would say it’s optimized price wise for what is needed together with a Tesla car. The Wi-Fi problem you had is due to weak Wi-Fi signal from the customer in this case…
The problem is your router. Routers especially from certain ISP are configured in a particular way OR not always implementing the standards properly. When i moved to a router that i purchased myself and connected directly to the ISP via PPoE all my devices worked flawlessly.
It quite possibly wouldn't connect to your office wifi during the training because your office wifi AP is only on 5Ghz, a lot of smart devices generally only use 2.4Ghz. I may be wrong but that sounds like the probable issue you experienced.
The software that they are shipped with has major issues connecting to WiFi. When the charger updates to the latest software, it seems to work reliably.
Looking at a new EV lease car and the lease includes a home charging point. There are two options, the Ohme charger or a PodPoint charger, unsure which to go for. Any thoughts on these chargers?
Can't speak for Ohme but we have a PodPoint and find it very good. App has good functionality with cost tracking etc and scheduling. Seems to be well built too and the installer did a great job of keeping it neat.
Why not install the “chargers” inside the garage ? With a safe cable route to the car ?
In the US you just go from the breaker panel to the wall connector. Is this an EU / UK code thing?
When I had a Zappi installed, as householder, I ran an Ethernet cable to the point where the Zappi would be installed. Hard wired is ALWAYS way more reliable!
What EV charger do you recommend? Still the Hypervault?
Very good video both content and well made - volume, clarity of speech, camera positions, pace, and personalities of the individuals on film
I have a pod-point charger that isn't very pretty, but the tethered cable with its plug mount is much neater than the Tesla unit. I have a Tesla Model Y which will charge from my unit originally installed for a Porsche Taycan Cross Turismo (it went back to the dealer) although the charging socket on the Tesla is at the other side and other end of the vehicle.
In close to a year owning EVs I have never charged from my domestic unit other than a brief test. I have 50kw free-to-use chargers less than half a mile away, but I believe in having a back-up for essentials.
I always start with a shorter drillbit. Its easier getting the angles right before fighting with a long flexy drillbit.
wi-fi is the issue. it happens with any wall unit. I have the "best" one from another manufacturer and it occasionally runs into issues on wifi. It varies with the neighbors wifi units active and the channel they are using plus the strength of your own wifi. Try using a wifi repeater near the wall unit.
Just had a wall connector installed yesterday in the States and the wall connector would not pair. We do have 5Ghz steering, and the same SSID or wifi name is used for 2.4 and 5Ghz. Luckily, I do have a separate SSID for 2.4 Ghz only, for so called (IoT) internet-of-things-type devices. Thankfully that worked:)! But the electrician did say things like he has to use his phone for the initial setup at most places because the customer's phone typically doesn't work. But even though we tried first with his phone and then mine neither could get the Wall Connector to connect to my main wifi. But since the pairing with my wifi did not affect my ability to used the wall connector to charge my car I told the electrician he was good to go, that I would sort out the wifi. After he left I tried several things on my main wifi network like narrowing the channel width and turning off some of the more advanced features that improves roaming with your smartphone or laptop. I had thought it was best to have the wall connector on the same wifi as my phone as I wasn't sure how the wall connector would react if I had it on a different wifi network than my phone. But eventually I just said, well let me try my IoT wifi and that worked. I then checked if I could see my wall connector in my telsa app and I could. So I went back to my main wifi settings and put everything back the way it was. I have had similar problems with other IoT devices like smart light bulbs, so I don't think this is just a wall connector issue. I think these IoT devices need better wifi chip sets and radios. And the 2.4 Ghz wifi radio spectrum is the most congested so that doesn't help. But 2.4 does typcially have the longest reach signal-wise compared to 5Ghz.
You might find it's an issue between 2.4ghz and 5ghz connecting problems. I split my WiFi so I can choose which one I need to connect to as some amazon sticks don't work well on 5ghz WiFi so I wonder if this is the problem artisan?
Oh god I’ve gone crosseyed
Pretty sure that is it. Hey had trouble in the office, probably in range of the 5ghz. They did it outside here, brick walls block most of the 5ghz so it would have defaulted to 2.4 which made the installation painless. High chance if they tried id near the wifi accesspoint it would have given trouble too
The Tesla wall connector presently only does 2.4 GHz