Excellent video. I did this. I downloaded the last 13 mos electrical power usage for our home from DTE Energy here in Southeast Michigan. It gave maximum demand by the hour in an MS Excel compatible spreadsheet form. I used the "max" function and found the maximum kWh level of usage covering over 9600 hourly readings. I then divided by 240 and multiplied by 1000. The answer was 44.1 amps. So, speeding ahead, the inequality is met for the amperage levels under my consideration. Thank you!
Super helpful, thank you! My local utility wouldn’t let me download a years worth of data all at once, I had to do it one month at a time. I have a 200Amp panel and found that my typical monthly usage peaked around the mid 30s to low 40s in amps, but then found one day, where for about 4 hours, our usage peaked at 66Amps, which when I looked it up turned out to be a large social gathering we hosted at our house. Now I know, which is awesome! Before this I was thinking I would need to get a 14-50 outlet, but now I know my panel can support the 60Amp wall charger. Very cool!
Stick with the 14-50. My wife's 2016 model X can only charge at 40 amps anyhow, and my new model 3 only 32 amps. The 14-50 plug and cable can handle that and is cheaper than the permanent EVSE, which won't let you charge any faster anyhow. I could only fit a 30 amp breaker in my panel anyhow so I charge at 27 amps and it still charges in only a few hours. As long as it's ready by morning, who cares about charging faster, even if it is possible.
@@JethroXP Ahh, apparently all but the M3RWD are now capable of taking 48 amps, but with no option for the dual charger to get the higher capacity like there used to be.
FANTASTIC and helpful video. I've searched a long time for someone to explain how selecting a breaker works, specifically for EV. You make it very clear. I have experience adding an electrical sub-meter and am not afraid of electricity, however understanding the calculations is something I didn't want to screw around with. Thank you!
Super helpful. When putting in the new circuit, I wanted it to be capable of the highest possible draw to be as future proof as I could make it. But when selecting an EVSE you don't necessarily need one that can draw the absolute maximum the circuit can handle. I figured out that a 32 amp EVSE was going to easily handle everything I need, 99.9% of the time. So I got a slightly smaller EVSE, which does three things, all good for me: (1) it was a bit cheaper to buy initially, (2) the car charges at a marginally slower rate which is good for the batteries; and (3) the wires in the wall, the plug, etc. are all running a solid notch below what they are theoretically capable of handling, which just creates some additional margin of safety. Code is the minimum requirement you need to meet, but there is nothing wrong with pulling 32 amps through a circuit that is theoretically capable of handling 40 or 48. It is basically the same idea as plugging a 60watt lamp into a standard household outlet that can handle up to 1,800 watts. Most people who haven't lived with an EV don't understand that you plug it in when you get home in the evening and then you really don't much care how long it takes to charge as long as it is ready to go by early the next AM. Fast charging is rarely important at home, you really only care about that when you are on a longer trip and you have to top off the battery to continue the journey.
Yes, indeed. I'm trying to install an EV charging outlet in my garage. What I'm trying to figure out is: is it even worth the extra cost to buy a 240V/60A outlet and breaker as well as more copper if I will most likely charge at 24 or 32A? I might be paying an additional $100 or so for something that I will never use.
@@ledzeppelin1212 I think that depends on how long you plan to be in your current house more than anything. Batteries and charging rates are only going to get better. I decided to future proof because I may be in the house for another decade. If I knew I was moving in three years I might have done things differently. I would say you have to be confident there is a 0% chance you will need higher charging rate because plug and wire are cheap compared to the cost of the electrician. You definitely do not want to pay to have it all ripped out and replaced in five years.
Thank you for a great explanation. At 1:22 your drawing shows the Ground Rod connected to the Neutral bus, and the two connected together. Is this the correct way to connect them or should the ground be isolated from the neutral. Thanks
Thank you sir for this Master Class of this topic. Long contemplating my first EV acquisition, I now consider myself very-well informed. I do have one question remaining, regarding house electrical wiring. Working with an architect and builder, I designed and built my home 12 years ago. I requested a dedicated circuit with high-capacity wiring from the service panel to the garage wall. I told them to terminate the garage end of the wires in a standard junction box since my plan was to hard wire the wall-mounted charger. And for inside the service panel, I told them to hold off installing a circuit breaker, just leave the three wires (L1, L2, ground, NO NEUTRAL) unconnected to anything. The breaker would be selected and installed in the future.
Long after moving in, I discovered that the electrical subcontractor used #8 AWG (19-stranded copper THHN/THWN-2 wires inside dedicated raceways) for the wires between the service panel and the junction box in the garage wall. It's about 35 foot run. From what I have read, based on wire gauge and the distance of the run, the highest amperage circuit breaker I can install would be a 30 amp. Agree? Or could I install a 40 amp breaker?
Best of the best tutorial to figure out whether Tesla home charger can handle up to 44 mi of range added per hour at 11.5 kW / 48 amp output or not!!!! 👍👍👍👍
My breaker box was able to supply the 2 60 amp breakers I used a pair tandem slim breakers as all the slots were occupied. One tandem has the original circuits, the other handles the charger. Amperage used during charging can be controlled through the Tesla app. It is more efficient to charge at a lower current. A lot of heat is dissipated into the air at high current. When I do need to charge at a faster rate I have the option to do so.
Very informatic video. Would you please confirm that if I am in US, the only change I need to do is on 8:03 mins I should divide by 110V and not to 240V and all others remain the same?
If you are pulling data from your utility provider, you divide by 240v. Data provided by utility is derived from the Meter. There are current transformers that measure the current, it then multiplies by the voltage between phase A and phase B ( which is 240v in 99% of the states)
NEC 220.82(B) and (C) has the detail how to calculate dwelling unit service load. Use 240V * rating of the panel and subtract the existing VA, that is the Max volt-ampere in remaining, take this number divide 240V or 120V depending either 2 pole or single pole breaker, now you have the Max current you can have from existing panel.
This was great, My utility happens to use the same data collection as yours, so It was easy to download, mine reads in 1 hour blocks not 15 minutes, so the Kwh/Kw conversion was pretty simple,
I am currently running into this. I have a NEMA 50 plug and since the plug is only rated for 50amps I will pair it with a 50amp breaker. If I got with a mounted charger I will no doubt go with wire that supports a much larger amount. I also have the main panel on the rear of my house next to my pedestal but it is simply an on off type situation. It goes inside to a 200amp breaker panel which then feeds a 60amp panel in my garage. I will be changing out the panel on the rear of the house with a panel with two 200amp breakers as my meter is rated for 320/400. I just need to make sure the wire in my meter base going to the box can handle that. Not a big deal. I can technically pull the meter if I need to cut off the power to that. I have been told by the power company tech that corporate will frown upon it but as long as I am not tampering with anything it isnt a problem for me to call them and have someone put a new lock on it. IE this happens here frequently when people break into places they pull the meter. I need to look at the disconnect box again because I might be able to just use that and then wire a panel into that. I just need to look at it again.
Please excuse my electrical ignorance but I do have one further question. Assuming you are using a home wall connector to charge your EV and an electrical storm passes by, would your EV be in danger of damage because of its connection to the wall connector?
Electrical guy here....yes, there is a danger. My understanding is that the wall pack contains information and relays to the car when plugged in. The actual charger is inside the car, meaning that the ac power in your house runs directly into the car before it works to charge your car. Lightning can effect your home system and travel down the wires into your car, just like the TV on your wall and cause damage. There are products out there to lessen or stop these effects. Please contact your local electrical guys with questions. Or call your local building office.
Hi Mark, yes there's a small risk damage can occur. I would make sure the charger is not plugged in to your car during a storm. I indirectly cover this topic in this video here: th-cam.com/video/oOQTf4Lz1zY/w-d-xo.html I also show a device that helps prevent damage.
Great Video. I have a quick question. @DG TV, Pardon my ignorance, at 8:05 minutes, why are you diving by 240 V ? In the US, the service is 110 V, shouldn't you be diving by 110 ?
Very good video. if anyone is handy enough and follow the code and watching so many videos here, it can be done very easily. This is NOT for all to install. Having said that, if you already installing one, go for the max AMPS you can considering your current panel max in. Moreover, I would avoid using plugs/outlet, if possible. These 2 things are a weak link and can cause many issues. After all, heavy AMPS are running for hours via these lines and they generate heat. HARDWIRED is the way to go.
@@Da-King-of-Swing I am referring to the NEMA outlets/plugs. Look, they will hold fine, but, why creating a weak link, if can be avoided. Even when doing hardwire, you need to makes sure all terminal screws are tight on these #6 or 8 (AMPS and length of wire using). Many video here on how to......!
Great Video, Now i am ready to be my own Electrician :-) (Kidding) the content of this video is so clear, that now i can make sure the electrician i will hire knows his stuff
Thanks. I’ve been looking something like this. Of course a new ChargePoint Flex will go up to 50 amps. Which means it should be using 62.5 amp breaker. So I wonder if it’s better to go with a slightly undersized 60 amp or slightly oversized 65 amp breaker.
Oversized. But also check, many chargers will list breaker size, so the 50A listing will actually be a 40A draw. Basically they already derate the power draw from the breaker needed to support their nameplate power rating.
Going from a 50A circuit to a 60A circuit will also require you to upsize the wiring from 6AWG to 4AWG (copper) to the EVSE, which can add significant cost to the installation.
How does a solar panel grid tie system factor in? Also you mention setting your charge current. Does the EV allow you to set maximum charge current? Thanks. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a model Y Tesla.
@@dvader3263Thanks for the reply. Since getting my Model Y I've learned that you can also schedule when the car charges, so I set it for 12am start time when demand from the house is low. Also I learned that the cheaper Tesla portable charge cable only charges at 32 amps max. I was hoping for better than that since I installed a 50 amp circuit. Still, that's good for about 30 miles per hour, which is enough for my needs.
@@travelbydragonfly My wife's 2016 model X charges at 40 amps. I remember them having an option to buy dual on board chargers to take 80 amps, but don't see that option any more. I recently got a model 3 and it only charges at 32 amps, using the same cable and 14-50 outlet. And yea, as long as it is charged by morning, that's fast enough.
Randy good question. Solar and battery storage lowers your home electrical demand. Assuming you have your solar/batt and electrical panel on the same utility meter, this lowers demand and this should already be reflected in your utility data. This being said you can follow the same steps outlined in this video. Congrats on your new Tesla!
Great video! Looking for the sub panel video you mentioned you would make. I have a detached garage with a 100 AMP service off of my main 200 AMP service. Also not sure if my power company in upstate N.Y. has the detail needed to see max usage. Thanks!
Excellent review of how to assess your home demand for installing an EV charger. There is, however, one more piece which is not covered in this overview, which is what size wire you need to install to the charger. I purchased and installed some 8 guage romex wire thinking that it could handle 50 amps, but apparently only thhn 8 guage wire can handle 50 amps, but 8 guage romex wire is only capable of 40 amps. Thus, I presume that I can use that 8 guage romex wire with a 50 amp circuit breaker and limit the charger to 40 amps. If I knew this in advance, I would have installed 6 guage romex wire instead, but running new wire is challenging so I will start with this wire I ran and consider changing it out if I find I would want more capacity later on.
I agree. I should have covered wire size; I didn't in this video but I cover it in 2 other videos. Regarding your wire install Here's my minimum wire size design guide: (COPPER American Wire Gauge AWG) 30A circuit breaker = #10 with #10 ground 40A circuit breaker = #8 with #10 ground 50A circuit breaker = #6 with #10 ground 60A circuit breaker = #4 with #10 ground For larger feeder runs (100ft+) wires need to be upsized to compensate for voltage drop.
Thank you for the detailed video. So I noticed you determined that the wire size was 4/0 and aluminum which allows a maximum power of 200 A yet your master breaker in that panel was 225 A which would require MCM 250 wire. The main breaker should be protecting the wire so I would say your panel is not correctly configured.
Thanks Ron. Regarding my panel, the main breaker size is 200A not 225A. The service wire #4/0 AL is rated for 200A (for residential applications) which matches the main breaker size 200A.
The buses are rated 225, if needed you can put a 150, 125, 0r 225a breaker to match service conductor sizes. Depending on the utility and service point definition, the utility can cheap out on the conductors upstream of the meter. That is why they are always outside, if they overheat, then they will upgrade.
I see in the description you explain that you need data points every 15 minutes. My electric company can't provide that or monthly maximum demand. What I do have is a years worth of usage from every hour in KWH. Can I take that max number divided by 240 times 1000 to get max AMPs?
Good advice to use data of actual energy use. The traditional "Load Calculations" are just an informed guess and will always vary from reality to some degree or other. Our Landis+Gyr meter shows max energy in kW averaged over 15 mins. With this info I see our max amperage was 78 amps, so we are well within our 200 amp service. I did a load calculation and it estimated we are at 102% of the service when in reality it's half of that.
Great video. If I install the Tesla’s wall connector to a 30 amp breaker, will the wall connector adjust automatically to 30 amps? Wall connector shows 12 to 48 amps.
for the Tesla wall charger, you set your installed breaker size in the phone application. For a different charger manufacturer there may be a dial somewhere that has to be set/programmed to the correct installed breaker size. Breaker size (in amps) and charge rate (in amps) are two separate values. Divide the the breaker size by 1.25 to get the charge rate. For example, 60A breaker size (60/1.25 = 48amps) has a 48amp charge rate which is the maximum for the Tesla charger. 30A breaker = 24A. Circuit breaker size does not equate to the charge setting.
In addition to using the Tesla phone app, you can also easily adjust the charging amperage to 24A for a 30 amp breaker on the charging screen in your Tesla vehicle.
The car lets you turn down the current below what the wall can supply. The wall charger has settings as shown in the video. The universal cable that used to come with the car, but they now charge $100 for, determines the max based on the plug adapter. The normal 120v 5-15 plug only allows 9 amps, and the 240v 14-50 or 6-50 allows 32 amps ( my wife's older one still allows 40 ).
Question : Why do you devide by 240V for "Max Demand" from historic data? The US use usually 120V for normal device (which used in historic data) even though we need to add 240V device.
This video was great and very informative. I was wondering if you could walk through your design process for dc fast charging, how you size breakers, transformers, etc. My company is starting an eMobility division, and I’m trying to understand how the electrical side of dcfc works
What about the transformer up stream of the meter? It seems to me that can be another limiting factor. I have a home that has two 200A panels, one for the house and another for some out-buildings. Service wires to both panels are 4/0. But the pad mounted transformer feeding it all is only rated for 25 kVA, which is only 104A at 240V.
Excellent video & very helpful - 1 question. I have 2 200 amp main panels , if I download data from electric company it would be the max load between both the panels right ? Is there a way of calculating for individual panel ?
Great video. So if I have a 200A service, does this mean I can pull 200A continuous? Or only 160A continuous? Building a new house with 5 EVs to charge on 200A service. So there will be some dynamic sharing going on. Tesla HPWC (Gen3) should allow me to program this to keep all my NACS and CCS vehicles happy.
Good idea on checking the service wires and their max loading. But Table 310.12 may not be exactly accurate if there are high temperatures involved or different conductors are used. Ambient temperature would be considered to derate the amperage. Of course, one would assume that was done correctly in the first place with the amperage of the main breaker, but maybe it was not. If the house is old, one could see how the service feed wires were calculated to an old code standard..
Great video! What would be the cost to install the wall connector by professional. My main electrical panel and garage are on the opposite end of the house :(
Does you house also have a subpanel inside the house (like in a bedroom or closet)? Mine does in addition to a subpanel outside next to the main. I'm in the process of upgrading to a 200 amp main and I'm considering eliminating the subpanels. The electrician would turn the old subpanels into junction boxes.
I have a main panel on the side of the house and a sub panel in the garage. If you have a smaller sub panel right next to your main panel, consolidating to one larger 200A panel could be a good idea. If you have additional sub panels throughout the house, no need to eliminate sub panels if they are still in good condition. If they are very old and need replacement, doesn't hurt to ask for a quote to replace it (panel + feeder). You never know when you need a new circuit! Without my garage sub panel, I would have needed about 150+ linear feet of #4 copper to install the EV charger in the garage. Not only would the EV charger install be a pain in the ass (routing around the house), the install costs goes exponential.
@@dgtv3320 Thanks so much for your detailed reply! Makes logical sense. I will indeed request a second quote to replace the closet subpanel instead of elimination. Yes it's a rather ancient 60's era Square D panel, but then again, the ones outside are equally ancient GE panels.
Having been Nan avid TH-cam DIY video watcher since the inception of YT, I must say that this video has been the MOST comprehensive video I have seen - a sincere and big THNAK YOU for that and keep up the great work. I have a question. As far as I gather, Tesla plug does not use the neutral wire (as your wall charger wiring indicated) - so, what is the purpose of having a aneutral wire in 14-50 plug wiring? Thnaks again!
We just moved in and only have a few months worth of data but they are for whole months. The largest usage per month is 2358 KWH for 29 days . We have a 200 Amp breaker box that is pretty full. I need to install a double tap to free up one space for the double pole breaker. The dryers are Gas only, one dishwasher we don't use often, we do have a pool heat pump. We do have a generator interlock which took up 2 spots in the panel. I know this isn't enough info but any guidance. Thank you for your content
Steve I would consider reaching out to your utility 1) ask if they can provide max demand for each month, if they cant 2) ask to provide data in smaller time intervals, ideally no more than 1 hour; you'll need at least 2 empty slots for a 2-pole breaker. If your panel is completely full, might consider installing a small sub panel. Let me know what your utility says.
@@dgtv3320 No go on the data, My thoughts is to only charge after 9pm.This way I know nothing else is running. I ordered a 60 amp breaker but I'm seriously thinking of just going 40 Amp to be safe, Running 6 AWG THHN wire. The run from the box to the charger is about 10'
My main circuit braker is 100A. When I do the calculations you mentioned, it exceeds 100A (Comes up to 110A). Can I just replace the main braker with 200A, and would it be safe after that?
Semih, you cannot do that. Up sizing the breaker would involve up-sizing your electrical panel and service wires. And it would require a utility shut off. This type of work is only allowed to by done by a licensed electrician. For a 100A main circuit breaker & panel, the biggest limiting factor is the size of your existing service wires. The older your home, the smaller your service wires will be. As I mentioned at the end of the video, you cannot exceed the rating of your existing service wires. Please reach out to a local electrician to help you determine your best path forward.
SPD/Breaker I have is made by Eaton model CH250SUR. Eaton makes two models 30A (CH230SUR) & 50A (CH250SUR). FYI: These units will only fit inside an Eaton electrical panel that accept 'CH' type breakers.
Note that the car may not be able to take that much current. My wife's 2016 model X can only take 40 amps. They had an option to upgrade it to 80 amps, but I don't even see that option on Tesla's web site any more. My new model 3 can only take 32 amps.
That is some really good presentation really appreciate the work that you are doing here you've earned a new subscriber can't wait for any new piece of content that you produce
Why are we dividing the kwh in our peak usage by 240? If everything in the house ran on 120, we would divide by 120, then the amperage would be higher. My house is mixed but only the stove and dryer run on 240.
Excellent video. I looked at my last two years data. I found that I had "one" hour where the usage reach 10.7 kWh. All other entries are showing Max around 7.5 KWH. My panel is a 100 AMP. it means that I cannot use a 60AMP breaker (because of this one entry) and I have to go down to 50 AMP. Correct?
Many thanks. Very helpful. This will provide peace of mind for a DIY'er. After searching NGRID online account informationI I called and they have assigned a "ticket" for the requested information. We'll see how that goes... I have a 100 amp service which includes 40 amps going out to a detached garage. I'm hoping I have the capacity to use 20 amps for an EV charger as this would be the least "obtrusive" solution to the existingn service while still meeting my low mileage requirements. Question: My plan is to install an industrial grade 20a/240v Hubbell outlet with a 20a double pole GFCI breaker on an existing 12 AWG dedicated line. Should I consider replacing the 12 AWG wire with #12 THHN set of wires instead?
Good choice on Hubbell. They make good stuff. Regarding existing wires, perform a visual inspection and confirm there is no damage/cracking on the insulation. If everything checks out, #12 copper is sufficient for a 20A dedicated circuit and you may avoid replacing the circuit. If this is for your charger, remember the breaker shall NOT be GFCI. Most, if not all EV chargers have GFCI function built in to the charger itself. Thanks for subscribing.
I have TXU energy and i am only able to export a year report by the day or month. Any way I can use that to make the calculations? i have a 150A breaker in my box
One question, if I use the 50amp nema 6-50 extension 75ft from the third floor to the first floor there is a 25ft drop from top to bottom will there be any problems? I set the charger to 32amp, it will only use 70%, the extension is a 6 cable that can withstand 50amp.
Here's my minimum wire size design guide: (COPPER American Wire Gauge AWG) 30A circuit breaker = #10 with #10 ground 40A circuit breaker = #8 with #10 ground 50A circuit breaker = #6 with #10 ground 60A circuit breaker = #4 with #10 ground For larger feeder runs (100ft+) wires need to be upsized to compensate for voltage drop.
No neutral required. I share a bunch of install details in these two videos: th-cam.com/video/OPc9_7wjcVM/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/TenDt45gH_4/w-d-xo.html
@@dgtv3320 Thank you! I will watch.Mine will be Mopar because it's from the dealer, but I imagine its the same, though I will wait until I get it to buy cables! Thank you for the info!
If an electrician, in installing your wall connector, says it will handle a charge setting of 48, does it make any sense to lower the charge setting? If so, what issues are presented in lowering the charge setting? Additionally, in using a wall connector to connect to an EV, does one need to unroll the wall connector cord when it is in use?
I am an electrical guy, not an engineer. An engineer would be better equipped to describe how different charge rates impact your car's battery. This might mean a 30 amp charge gives your battery more useful life. From an electrical standpoint, YES! As low as you can. Wires have some small resistance to them making them like a plug in electrical heater. The wire insulation is designed to handle specific levels, however, bad connections or improper plug ins can be a source of specific heat generation spots. Over time, any flaw or added heat will damage the insulation and cause failure. This may take years and years. However, the lower you can keep the current, the less likely any problems. Think of it like driving a Ferrari on down town streets....stay in first gear and no speeding tickets....shift into high and problems. On a 40 amp setting your car might charge in 7 hours, but, if you charge for 30 amps at 10 hours... It is safer for your house/wiring. Plug in at 6 pm and unplug at 6 am and an even lower rate can get your car where you need.
Our EV set at 40 amp charging on a 50 amp breaker, charges back at 41 to 43 miles each hour. Mostly the screen says 42 miles each hour. The vehicle dashboard reading is usually 240 to 244 volts.
@@keithharrington8715 I have noticed that when charging my Teslas at lower current, it is less efficient. As in more kWh goes into charging than kWh spent driving when you charge at lower rates. Apparently this is because having the car powered up while charging burns a few hundred watts, so it's better to finish charging sooner so it can power back down.
@@keithharrington8715 Well there isn't supposed to be but the computer seems to be able to burn a surprising amount of power. It also does so when sentry mode is enabled.
Hi Carl, I'm making the assumption your main circuit breaker trips now after installing an EV circuit. I suggest using the tesla app to set the charge setting to 12amps and upping it slowly as needed. ( also assuming you have at least 30A circuit breaker and using #10 copper).
You almost certainly can't with a 100 amp panel. Also you don't need to. My wife's 2016 model X can only take 40 amps. They used to have an option to upgrade to 80, but I didn't buy it. I don't even see that option any more. My new model 3 only takes 32 amps. And that's more than enough to fully charge by morning, so there's no need for more.
If you are going to install a project like this, great information is contained in this video. I would say to call your building department first. They may require calculations of load based on the national electrical code ( NEC) section 220 instead of 12 months of usage data. Also, they can add, subtract, or completely ignore any or all of the building code (NEC), so the NEC may not apply to you. The NEC had a separate section with special requirements for car charging or EVSE equipment, section 625 and that section refers you back to chapters 1,2,&3 for added requirements. Can you install a charger without paying for an electrician, yes. There are a lot of requirements and rules to follow that they "mess" with every day. I encourage everyone to make sure that get the best information, the inspectors, a pro, or your own research. Just remember that a pro does this work every day and may be able to help you avoid problems you did not know you had, you might work out a deal where they give you the knowledge and you do the install. Finally,. KNOWLEDGE IS THE TREASURE YOU CAN GIVE ALL OF YOURS AWAY AND STILL HAVE WHAT YOU STARTED WITH. So, is it stealing if you get it for free by asking? And thanks for yours.
You also need to ask what your car can handle. I got my wife a Tesla Model X in 2016 and it can only take 40 amps. I remember they had an option to get dual chargers to take 80 amps, but I don't see that option any more. I recently got a model 3 and it can only charge at 32 amps.
Thanks for sharing your experience Phil. I'm a little confused on why your model X wouldn't handle more than 40 amps at home when at a supercharging station it can do, 150KVA, 250KVA and even 350KVA. Max charge setting for residential Tesla wall connector is 48A which is 11.520KVA. It must be a software bug/glitch.
@@dgtv3320 The superchargers convert the AC to DC using large equipment at the site and charge the battery directly with 400-600 volts. When plugged into level 1/2 chargers, the 120 or 240v AC is converted to DC using an on board charger, and that's limited to 40 amps on my wife's X and 32 on my 3. Like I said, when I bought my wife's model X, I had the option to pay extra for a second on board charger to allow it to accept 80 amps of AC power, but I didn't get it since I didn't see any need for it.
@Phillip Susi sounds like hardware (and maybe some software involved as well, as you have to pay to get it unlocked). Tesla charging you extra is ridiculous! Totally agree with you it is not needed at all. Not sure if the new vehicles have this limitation, (new limit might be 48A) but i cannot confirm.
@@dgtv3320 Yea, it was actually adding additional hardware. I just looked it up and apparently now all but the model 3 RWD support 48 amps with no option for higher, with the RWD limited to 32.
There are a lot of crappy ev charger install videos…. Thank you for giving me some real information! This is extremely helpful
These are details no one else is sharing. And in a very clear way. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Best video I've seen on this subject. As an avid DIYer I know the basics but the detail you go into in this video is exceptional, thanks my friend!
This is the best math and highly educational video I have seen when it comes to EV charging.
Excellent video. I did this. I downloaded the last 13 mos electrical power usage for our home from DTE Energy here in Southeast Michigan. It gave maximum demand by the hour in an MS Excel compatible spreadsheet form. I used the "max" function and found the maximum kWh level of usage covering over 9600 hourly readings. I then divided by 240 and multiplied by 1000. The answer was 44.1 amps. So, speeding ahead, the inequality is met for the amperage levels under my consideration. Thank you!
Super helpful, thank you! My local utility wouldn’t let me download a years worth of data all at once, I had to do it one month at a time. I have a 200Amp panel and found that my typical monthly usage peaked around the mid 30s to low 40s in amps, but then found one day, where for about 4 hours, our usage peaked at 66Amps, which when I looked it up turned out to be a large social gathering we hosted at our house. Now I know, which is awesome! Before this I was thinking I would need to get a 14-50 outlet, but now I know my panel can support the 60Amp wall charger. Very cool!
Stick with the 14-50. My wife's 2016 model X can only charge at 40 amps anyhow, and my new model 3 only 32 amps. The 14-50 plug and cable can handle that and is cheaper than the permanent EVSE, which won't let you charge any faster anyhow. I could only fit a 30 amp breaker in my panel anyhow so I charge at 27 amps and it still charges in only a few hours. As long as it's ready by morning, who cares about charging faster, even if it is possible.
@@phillipsusi1791 I ended up going with the 60 amp circuit and the Tesla wall charger, I can charge at 48 amps, or roughly 44 miles of range per hour.
@@JethroXP Ahh, apparently all but the M3RWD are now capable of taking 48 amps, but with no option for the dual charger to get the higher capacity like there used to be.
This is the best and most scientific video regarding pre installation of any home EV charger in the entire TH-cam. Tnankk.
Thank you for building the best ev charging network in the entire world !
FANTASTIC and helpful video. I've searched a long time for someone to explain how selecting a breaker works, specifically for EV. You make it very clear. I have experience adding an electrical sub-meter and am not afraid of electricity, however understanding the calculations is something I didn't want to screw around with. Thank you!
Agreed. This is a wonderfully helpful vid!
You guys need to read the rest of the comments. He’s not correct on a lot of things, and he’s not a electrican…
Super helpful. When putting in the new circuit, I wanted it to be capable of the highest possible draw to be as future proof as I could make it. But when selecting an EVSE you don't necessarily need one that can draw the absolute maximum the circuit can handle. I figured out that a 32 amp EVSE was going to easily handle everything I need, 99.9% of the time. So I got a slightly smaller EVSE, which does three things, all good for me: (1) it was a bit cheaper to buy initially, (2) the car charges at a marginally slower rate which is good for the batteries; and (3) the wires in the wall, the plug, etc. are all running a solid notch below what they are theoretically capable of handling, which just creates some additional margin of safety. Code is the minimum requirement you need to meet, but there is nothing wrong with pulling 32 amps through a circuit that is theoretically capable of handling 40 or 48. It is basically the same idea as plugging a 60watt lamp into a standard household outlet that can handle up to 1,800 watts. Most people who haven't lived with an EV don't understand that you plug it in when you get home in the evening and then you really don't much care how long it takes to charge as long as it is ready to go by early the next AM. Fast charging is rarely important at home, you really only care about that when you are on a longer trip and you have to top off the battery to continue the journey.
Yes, indeed. I'm trying to install an EV charging outlet in my garage. What I'm trying to figure out is: is it even worth the extra cost to buy a 240V/60A outlet and breaker as well as more copper if I will most likely charge at 24 or 32A? I might be paying an additional $100 or so for something that I will never use.
@@ledzeppelin1212 I think that depends on how long you plan to be in your current house more than anything. Batteries and charging rates are only going to get better. I decided to future proof because I may be in the house for another decade. If I knew I was moving in three years I might have done things differently. I would say you have to be confident there is a 0% chance you will need higher charging rate because plug and wire are cheap compared to the cost of the electrician. You definitely do not want to pay to have it all ripped out and replaced in five years.
Great video and clear. I’m not an electrician but I admire the craft. Lots of physics involved.
Great explanation. Easy to figure out for someone with little knowledge like myself
Awesome video! For those who don’t heed the safety warnings, good luck!
Thank you for taking your time to provide extremely useful information in a way that is very easy to understand.
Thank you for a great explanation. At 1:22 your drawing shows the Ground Rod connected to the Neutral bus, and the two connected together. Is this the correct way to connect them or should the ground be isolated from the neutral. Thanks
I'm a 7 year guy. Thank you. I'm putting this all together. Hell yeah. I take the classes but still like videos like this to connect the picture.
Thank you for the detailed educational video. Very helpful as I navigate project proposals from multiple EV charger installers.
Thank you sir for this Master Class of this topic. Long contemplating my first EV acquisition, I now consider myself very-well informed. I do have one question remaining, regarding house electrical wiring. Working with an architect and builder, I designed and built my home 12 years ago. I requested a dedicated circuit with high-capacity wiring from the service panel to the garage wall. I told them to terminate the garage end of the wires in a standard junction box since my plan was to hard wire the wall-mounted charger. And for inside the service panel, I told them to hold off installing a circuit breaker, just leave the three wires (L1, L2, ground, NO NEUTRAL) unconnected to anything. The breaker would be selected and installed in the future.
Long after moving in, I discovered that the electrical subcontractor used #8 AWG (19-stranded copper THHN/THWN-2 wires inside dedicated raceways) for the wires between the service panel and the junction box in the garage wall. It's about 35 foot run. From what I have read, based on wire gauge and the distance of the run, the highest amperage circuit breaker I can install would be a 30 amp. Agree? Or could I install a 40 amp breaker?
I use that Emeryville Supercharger! Good job!
Best of the best tutorial to figure out whether Tesla home charger can handle up to 44 mi of range added per hour at 11.5 kW / 48 amp output or not!!!! 👍👍👍👍
My breaker box was able to supply the 2 60 amp breakers I used a pair tandem slim breakers as all the slots were occupied. One tandem has the original circuits, the other handles the charger. Amperage used during charging can be controlled through the Tesla app. It is more efficient to charge at a lower current. A lot of heat is dissipated into the air at high current. When I do need to charge at a faster rate I have the option to do so.
I needed this because of my OCD about safety first 👷♂️
strangely my usage was nearly identical as yours over the 1 year readout. so this was fairly easy for me thanks.
Thanks a lot for the info. I follow your way to calculate the new load and the inspection of my EV charge installation was just passed today.
This is the most informational and helpful video that I watched in preparation for the EV charge install. Thank you very much!
Glad it was helpful!
Very informatic video. Would you please confirm that if I am in US, the only change I need to do is on 8:03 mins I should divide by 110V and not to 240V and all others remain the same?
It would still be 240V - the charger would be 240, much like an electric dryer or oven. The rest of your outlets would be 110V typically.
@@NHRunDad But here I calculate EXISTING usage, which is based on 110V except dryer and oven.
If you are pulling data from your utility provider, you divide by 240v.
Data provided by utility is derived from the Meter. There are current transformers that measure the current, it then multiplies by the voltage between phase A and phase B ( which is 240v in 99% of the states)
Best description I have ever encounter. Thank you!
thanks DG. you helped a lot of people, made the knowledge simple, and most importantly hire a professional.!
NEC 220.82(B) and (C) has the detail how to calculate dwelling unit service load. Use 240V * rating of the panel and subtract the existing VA, that is the Max volt-ampere in remaining, take this number divide 240V or 120V depending either 2 pole or single pole breaker, now you have the Max current you can have from existing panel.
This was great, My utility happens to use the same data collection as yours, so It was easy to download, mine reads in 1 hour blocks not 15 minutes, so the Kwh/Kw conversion was pretty simple,
I am currently running into this. I have a NEMA 50 plug and since the plug is only rated for 50amps I will pair it with a 50amp breaker. If I got with a mounted charger I will no doubt go with wire that supports a much larger amount. I also have the main panel on the rear of my house next to my pedestal but it is simply an on off type situation. It goes inside to a 200amp breaker panel which then feeds a 60amp panel in my garage. I will be changing out the panel on the rear of the house with a panel with two 200amp breakers as my meter is rated for 320/400. I just need to make sure the wire in my meter base going to the box can handle that. Not a big deal. I can technically pull the meter if I need to cut off the power to that. I have been told by the power company tech that corporate will frown upon it but as long as I am not tampering with anything it isnt a problem for me to call them and have someone put a new lock on it. IE this happens here frequently when people break into places they pull the meter. I need to look at the disconnect box again because I might be able to just use that and then wire a panel into that. I just need to look at it again.
perfect timing. i am going to be having my installed in the next month or so. Now I can tell if the person I hire knows how to do it safely
Please excuse my electrical ignorance but I do have one further question. Assuming you are using a home wall connector to charge your EV and an electrical storm passes by, would your EV be in danger of damage because of its connection to the wall connector?
Electrical guy here....yes, there is a danger. My understanding is that the wall pack contains information and relays to the car when plugged in. The actual charger is inside the car, meaning that the ac power in your house runs directly into the car before it works to charge your car. Lightning can effect your home system and travel down the wires into your car, just like the TV on your wall and cause damage. There are products out there to lessen or stop these effects.
Please contact your local electrical guys with questions. Or call your local building office.
Hi Mark, yes there's a small risk damage can occur. I would make sure the charger is not plugged in to your car during a storm. I indirectly cover this topic in this video here: th-cam.com/video/oOQTf4Lz1zY/w-d-xo.html I also show a device that helps prevent damage.
If 480v had a voice
😂
Great Video. I have a quick question.
@DG TV, Pardon my ignorance, at 8:05 minutes, why are you diving by 240 V ? In the US, the service is 110 V, shouldn't you be diving by 110 ?
Very professional video, this is foundation video for install EV charger !
Keep posting content. This video was incredibly informative and easily digestible. Keep it up
Very good video. if anyone is handy enough and follow the code and watching so many videos here, it can be done very easily. This is NOT for all to install. Having said that, if you already installing one, go for the max AMPS you can considering your current panel max in. Moreover, I would avoid using plugs/outlet, if possible. These 2 things are a weak link and can cause many issues. After all, heavy AMPS are running for hours via these lines and they generate heat. HARDWIRED is the way to go.
When you say you would avoid using plugs/outlets are you referring to a mobile connector and Nema 1450 outlet? 🤔
@@Da-King-of-Swing I am referring to the NEMA outlets/plugs. Look, they will hold fine, but, why creating a weak link, if can be avoided. Even when doing hardwire, you need to makes sure all terminal screws are tight on these #6 or 8 (AMPS and length of wire using). Many video here on how to......!
Great video love that you broke down the formulas so clearly. Thanks
Great Video, Now i am ready to be my own Electrician :-) (Kidding) the content of this video is so clear, that now i can make sure the electrician i will hire knows his stuff
Glad it helped!
Thanks. I’ve been looking something like this. Of course a new ChargePoint Flex will go up to 50 amps. Which means it should be using 62.5 amp breaker. So I wonder if it’s better to go with a slightly undersized 60 amp or slightly oversized 65 amp breaker.
Oversized. But also check, many chargers will list breaker size, so the 50A listing will actually be a 40A draw. Basically they already derate the power draw from the breaker needed to support their nameplate power rating.
This is exactly knowledge that I am looking for, keep up good work!
Glad it was helpful!
I truely appriciate your presentation. Thank You!
Glad it was helpful!
If you have a subpanel, get an amperage meter and run everything. Place it around each hot leg to see the amperage.
Going from a 50A circuit to a 60A circuit will also require you to upsize the wiring from 6AWG to 4AWG (copper) to the EVSE, which can add significant cost to the installation.
If you are using romex. If using thhn in conduit, #6 is ok for the 60amp breaker. Assuming hardwired and not outlet.
If you still have the generator and have used it, could you do a review on it?
How does a solar panel grid tie system factor in? Also you mention setting your charge current. Does the EV allow you to set maximum charge current? Thanks. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a model Y Tesla.
Yes, the Tesla allows you to set the maximum and proper charge current, on both the control screen and the Tesla phone app.
@@dvader3263Thanks for the reply. Since getting my Model Y I've learned that you can also schedule when the car charges, so I set it for 12am start time when demand from the house is low. Also I learned that the cheaper Tesla portable charge cable only charges at 32 amps max. I was hoping for better than that since I installed a 50 amp circuit. Still, that's good for about 30 miles per hour, which is enough for my needs.
@@travelbydragonfly My wife's 2016 model X charges at 40 amps. I remember them having an option to buy dual on board chargers to take 80 amps, but don't see that option any more. I recently got a model 3 and it only charges at 32 amps, using the same cable and 14-50 outlet. And yea, as long as it is charged by morning, that's fast enough.
Randy good question. Solar and battery storage lowers your home electrical demand. Assuming you have your solar/batt and electrical panel on the same utility meter, this lowers demand and this should already be reflected in your utility data. This being said you can follow the same steps outlined in this video. Congrats on your new Tesla!
Excellent, concise, and extremely valuable - thank you!
Great information and presentation thank you for sharing this important information
I'm a new sub, impressed with your Tesla experience. Do you know if they are going back with solar on all of the superchargers?
Great video! Looking for the sub panel video you mentioned you would make. I have a detached garage with a 100 AMP service off of my main 200 AMP service. Also not sure if my power company in upstate N.Y. has the detail needed to see max usage. Thanks!
Excellent review of how to assess your home demand for installing an EV charger. There is, however, one more piece which is not covered in this overview, which is what size wire you need to install to the charger. I purchased and installed some 8 guage romex wire thinking that it could handle 50 amps, but apparently only thhn 8 guage wire can handle 50 amps, but 8 guage romex wire is only capable of 40 amps. Thus, I presume that I can use that 8 guage romex wire with a 50 amp circuit breaker and limit the charger to 40 amps. If I knew this in advance, I would have installed 6 guage romex wire instead, but running new wire is challenging so I will start with this wire I ran and consider changing it out if I find I would want more capacity later on.
I agree. I should have covered wire size; I didn't in this video but I cover it in 2 other videos. Regarding your wire install
Here's my minimum wire size design guide:
(COPPER American Wire Gauge AWG)
30A circuit breaker = #10 with #10 ground
40A circuit breaker = #8 with #10 ground
50A circuit breaker = #6 with #10 ground
60A circuit breaker = #4 with #10 ground
For larger feeder runs (100ft+) wires need to be upsized to compensate for voltage drop.
Thank you for the detailed video. So I noticed you determined that the wire size was 4/0 and aluminum which allows a maximum power of 200 A yet your master breaker in that panel was 225 A which would require MCM 250 wire. The main breaker should be protecting the wire so I would say your panel is not correctly configured.
Thanks Ron. Regarding my panel, the main breaker size is 200A not 225A. The service wire #4/0 AL is rated for 200A (for residential applications) which matches the main breaker size 200A.
The buses are rated 225, if needed you can put a 150, 125, 0r 225a breaker to match service conductor sizes. Depending on the utility and service point definition, the utility can cheap out on the conductors upstream of the meter. That is why they are always outside, if they overheat, then they will upgrade.
This is some detailed information is there any way I can share some charging plans with to
Get your opinion??
I like the step by step calculations
I see in the description you explain that you need data points every 15 minutes. My electric company can't provide that or monthly maximum demand. What I do have is a years worth of usage from every hour in KWH. Can I take that max number divided by 240 times 1000 to get max AMPs?
Unfortunately using 1hr data invalidates the equation. I plan to release another video for an alternate calculation when 15min data is not available.
Good advice to use data of actual energy use. The traditional "Load Calculations" are just an informed guess and will always vary from reality to some degree or other.
Our Landis+Gyr meter shows max energy in kW averaged over 15 mins. With this info I see our max amperage was 78 amps, so we are well within our 200 amp service. I did a load calculation and it estimated we are at 102% of the service when in reality it's half of that.
15 min metering data is the most accurate--couldn't agree more.
Great video. If I install the Tesla’s wall connector to a 30 amp breaker, will the wall connector adjust automatically to 30 amps? Wall connector shows 12 to 48 amps.
for the Tesla wall charger, you set your installed breaker size in the phone application. For a different charger manufacturer there may be a dial somewhere that has to be set/programmed to the correct installed breaker size. Breaker size (in amps) and charge rate (in amps) are two separate values. Divide the the breaker size by 1.25 to get the charge rate. For example, 60A breaker size (60/1.25 = 48amps) has a 48amp charge rate which is the maximum for the Tesla charger. 30A breaker = 24A. Circuit breaker size does not equate to the charge setting.
In addition to using the Tesla phone app, you can also easily adjust the charging amperage to 24A for a 30 amp breaker on the charging screen in your Tesla vehicle.
The car lets you turn down the current below what the wall can supply. The wall charger has settings as shown in the video. The universal cable that used to come with the car, but they now charge $100 for, determines the max based on the plug adapter. The normal 120v 5-15 plug only allows 9 amps, and the 240v 14-50 or 6-50 allows 32 amps ( my wife's older one still allows 40 ).
Question : Why do you devide by 240V for "Max Demand" from historic data? The US use usually 120V for normal device (which used in historic data) even though we need to add 240V device.
This video was great and very informative. I was wondering if you could walk through your design process for dc fast charging, how you size breakers, transformers, etc. My company is starting an eMobility division, and I’m trying to understand how the electrical side of dcfc works
What about the transformer up stream of the meter? It seems to me that can be another limiting factor. I have a home that has two 200A panels, one for the house and another for some out-buildings. Service wires to both panels are 4/0. But the pad mounted transformer feeding it all is only rated for 25 kVA, which is only 104A at 240V.
This is a professional explanation. the other EV charger Installation guide are all BS
Great video, very informative and I realize I don't have to replace my current electrical panel.
Excellent video & very helpful - 1 question. I have 2 200 amp main panels , if I download data from electric company it would be the max load between both the panels right ? Is there a way of calculating for individual panel ?
Great video. So if I have a 200A service, does this mean I can pull 200A continuous? Or only 160A continuous? Building a new house with 5 EVs to charge on 200A service. So there will be some dynamic sharing going on. Tesla HPWC (Gen3) should allow me to program this to keep all my NACS and CCS vehicles happy.
Good idea on checking the service wires and their max loading. But Table 310.12 may not be exactly accurate if there are high temperatures involved or different conductors are used. Ambient temperature would be considered to derate the amperage. Of course, one would assume that was done correctly in the first place with the amperage of the main breaker, but maybe it was not. If the house is old, one could see how the service feed wires were calculated to an old code standard..
This was the most informative video I have seen in a long long time, thank you
I appreciate the comment Steve--thank you
Great video! What would be the cost to install the wall connector by professional.
My main electrical panel and garage are on the opposite end of the house :(
Awesome description. Thank you very much!
Does you house also have a subpanel inside the house (like in a bedroom or closet)? Mine does in addition to a subpanel outside next to the main.
I'm in the process of upgrading to a 200 amp main and I'm considering eliminating the subpanels. The electrician would turn the old subpanels into junction boxes.
I have a main panel on the side of the house and a sub panel in the garage. If you have a smaller sub panel right next to your main panel, consolidating to one larger 200A panel could be a good idea. If you have additional sub panels throughout the house, no need to eliminate sub panels if they are still in good condition. If they are very old and need replacement, doesn't hurt to ask for a quote to replace it (panel + feeder). You never know when you need a new circuit! Without my garage sub panel, I would have needed about 150+ linear feet of #4 copper to install the EV charger in the garage. Not only would the EV charger install be a pain in the ass (routing around the house), the install costs goes exponential.
@@dgtv3320 Thanks so much for your detailed reply! Makes logical sense. I will indeed request a second quote to replace the closet subpanel instead of elimination. Yes it's a rather ancient 60's era Square D panel, but then again, the ones outside are equally ancient GE panels.
Having been Nan avid TH-cam DIY video watcher since the inception of YT, I must say that this video has been the MOST comprehensive video I have seen - a sincere and big THNAK YOU for that and keep up the great work.
I have a question. As far as I gather, Tesla plug does not use the neutral wire (as your wall charger wiring indicated) - so, what is the purpose of having a aneutral wire in 14-50 plug wiring?
Thnaks again!
Based on NEC 110.14(C)(1)(a), what is your determination of the Tesla Wall Connector terminal temperature rating?
We just moved in and only have a few months worth of data but they are for whole months. The largest usage per month is 2358 KWH for 29 days . We have a 200 Amp breaker box that is pretty full. I need to install a double tap to free up one space for the double pole breaker. The dryers are Gas only, one dishwasher we don't use often, we do have a pool heat pump. We do have a generator interlock which took up 2 spots in the panel. I know this isn't enough info but any guidance. Thank you for your content
Steve I would consider reaching out to your utility 1) ask if they can provide max demand for each month, if they cant 2) ask to provide data in smaller time intervals, ideally no more than 1 hour; you'll need at least 2 empty slots for a 2-pole breaker. If your panel is completely full, might consider installing a small sub panel. Let me know what your utility says.
@@dgtv3320 No go on the data, My thoughts is to only charge after 9pm.This way I know nothing else is running. I ordered a 60 amp breaker but I'm seriously thinking of just going 40 Amp to be safe, Running 6 AWG THHN wire. The run from the box to the charger is about 10'
wait what you said doesn't match the formula. You said "max demand times 25%" but the formula says "max demand times 125%". which one is correct? thx
Excuse the confusion. I should have said 125% which is 1.25.
My main circuit braker is 100A. When I do the calculations you mentioned, it exceeds 100A (Comes up to 110A). Can I just replace the main braker with 200A, and would it be safe after that?
Semih, you cannot do that. Up sizing the breaker would involve up-sizing your electrical panel and service wires. And it would require a utility shut off. This type of work is only allowed to by done by a licensed electrician. For a 100A main circuit breaker & panel, the biggest limiting factor is the size of your existing service wires. The older your home, the smaller your service wires will be. As I mentioned at the end of the video, you cannot exceed the rating of your existing service wires. Please reach out to a local electrician to help you determine your best path forward.
@@dgtv3320 Thank you very much.
Please make a video about doing this with a subpanel.
What's the part number for the Dryer combination breaker/SPD? I can't find anything quite like that online but is ideal for the panel my Daughter has.
SPD/Breaker I have is made by Eaton model CH250SUR. Eaton makes two models 30A (CH230SUR) & 50A (CH250SUR). FYI: These units will only fit inside an Eaton electrical panel that accept 'CH' type breakers.
My panel can handle a 60 amp breaker for EV charger. Is there a specific breaker for it to handle a constant load during a charge?
Nothing specific. Standard 60A 2-pole breaker will do it. Make sure it is NON-GFCI type.
@@dgtv3320 Thank you!
Note that the car may not be able to take that much current. My wife's 2016 model X can only take 40 amps. They had an option to upgrade it to 80 amps, but I don't even see that option on Tesla's web site any more. My new model 3 can only take 32 amps.
Thank you so much man.... so appreciate your work, now I understand.
That is some really good presentation really appreciate the work that you are doing here you've earned a new subscriber can't wait for any new piece of content that you produce
I appreciate your nice comment Erick, thank you
Braided or solid wire with the #6?
Stranded wire is easier to pull and typically less expensive
For this reason it is preferred
Why are we dividing the kwh in our peak usage by 240? If everything in the house ran on 120, we would divide by 120, then the amperage would be higher. My house is mixed but only the stove and dryer run on 240.
Excellent video. I looked at my last two years data. I found that I had "one" hour where the usage reach 10.7 kWh. All other entries are showing Max around 7.5 KWH. My panel is a 100 AMP. it means that I cannot use a 60AMP breaker (because of this one entry) and I have to go down to 50 AMP. Correct?
My utility green button data has 1-hour granularity (1 data point per hour). Can it be used to determine Max Demand?
Many thanks. Very helpful. This will provide peace of mind for a DIY'er. After searching NGRID online account informationI I called and they have assigned a "ticket" for the requested information. We'll see how that goes... I have a 100 amp service which includes 40 amps going out to a detached garage. I'm hoping I have the capacity to use 20 amps for an EV charger as this would be the least "obtrusive" solution to the existingn service while still meeting my low mileage requirements. Question: My plan is to install an industrial grade 20a/240v Hubbell outlet with a 20a double pole GFCI breaker on an existing 12 AWG dedicated line. Should I consider replacing the 12 AWG wire with #12 THHN set of wires instead?
Good choice on Hubbell. They make good stuff. Regarding existing wires, perform a visual inspection and confirm there is no damage/cracking on the insulation. If everything checks out, #12 copper is sufficient for a 20A dedicated circuit and you may avoid replacing the circuit. If this is for your charger, remember the breaker shall NOT be GFCI. Most, if not all EV chargers have GFCI function built in to the charger itself. Thanks for subscribing.
I installed a 50amp for my Tesla charger based on the installation instructions. Perhaps the installation instructions have changed since 2018.
I have TXU energy and i am only able to export a year report by the day or month. Any way I can use that to make the calculations? i have a 150A breaker in my box
One question, if I use the 50amp nema 6-50 extension 75ft from the third floor to the first floor there is a 25ft drop from top to bottom will there be any problems? I set the charger to 32amp, it will only use 70%, the extension is a 6 cable that can withstand 50amp.
But which gauge wire? One rated for 60a in your case?
Here's my minimum wire size design guide:
(COPPER American Wire Gauge AWG)
30A circuit breaker = #10 with #10 ground
40A circuit breaker = #8 with #10 ground
50A circuit breaker = #6 with #10 ground
60A circuit breaker = #4 with #10 ground
For larger feeder runs (100ft+) wires need to be upsized to compensate for voltage drop.
Thank you! Now I have to see if hard wiring needs a neutral! 8/2 or 8/3!@@dgtv3320
No neutral required. I share a bunch of install details in these two videos: th-cam.com/video/OPc9_7wjcVM/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/TenDt45gH_4/w-d-xo.html
@@dgtv3320 Thank you! I will watch.Mine will be Mopar because it's from the dealer, but I imagine its the same, though I will wait until I get it to buy cables! Thank you for the info!
Tomorrow im going to istall mine, my panel is 100 amps for one family house feeding from at meter, i need to install 60 amps brake w wire size 6 ?
Awesome video! Extremely informative -- can now talk to the electrician with a bit more knowledge.
Great to hear!
Thank you for the great detailed explanation.
If an electrician, in installing your wall connector, says it will handle a charge setting of 48, does it make any sense to lower the charge setting? If so, what issues are presented in lowering the charge setting? Additionally, in using a wall connector to connect to an EV, does one need to unroll the wall connector cord when it is in use?
I am an electrical guy, not an engineer. An engineer would be better equipped to describe how different charge rates impact your car's battery. This might mean a 30 amp charge gives your battery more useful life.
From an electrical standpoint, YES! As low as you can.
Wires have some small resistance to them making them like a plug in electrical heater. The wire insulation is designed to handle specific levels, however, bad connections or improper plug ins can be a source of specific heat generation spots. Over time, any flaw or added heat will damage the insulation and cause failure. This may take years and years. However, the lower you can keep the current, the less likely any problems. Think of it like driving a Ferrari on down town streets....stay in first gear and no speeding tickets....shift into high and problems.
On a 40 amp setting your car might charge in 7 hours, but, if you charge for 30 amps at 10 hours... It is safer for your house/wiring. Plug in at 6 pm and unplug at 6 am and an even lower rate can get your car where you need.
Our EV set at 40 amp charging on a 50 amp breaker, charges back at 41 to 43 miles each hour. Mostly the screen says 42 miles each hour.
The vehicle dashboard reading is usually 240 to 244 volts.
@@keithharrington8715 I have noticed that when charging my Teslas at lower current, it is less efficient. As in more kWh goes into charging than kWh spent driving when you charge at lower rates. Apparently this is because having the car powered up while charging burns a few hundred watts, so it's better to finish charging sooner so it can power back down.
@phillipsusi1791 thank you. Did not know that. I guess there is a heater involved with charging, if I understand it all correctly.
@@keithharrington8715 Well there isn't supposed to be but the computer seems to be able to burn a surprising amount of power. It also does so when sentry mode is enabled.
If the main breaker trips instead of the circuit breaker of a circuit, what would it mean?
Hi Carl, I'm making the assumption your main circuit breaker trips now after installing an EV circuit. I suggest using the tesla app to set the charge setting to 12amps and upping it slowly as needed. ( also assuming you have at least 30A circuit breaker and using #10 copper).
Since you worked for Tesla doing the stations. How hard would it be to build one in Rosarito, Mx
I can’t to download the usage for electric, only show day use or hr use how can I do
My panel 100amp can I to add 60amp
You almost certainly can't with a 100 amp panel. Also you don't need to. My wife's 2016 model X can only take 40 amps. They used to have an option to upgrade to 80, but I didn't buy it. I don't even see that option any more. My new model 3 only takes 32 amps. And that's more than enough to fully charge by morning, so there's no need for more.
If you are going to install a project like this, great information is contained in this video.
I would say to call your building department first. They may require calculations of load based on the national electrical code ( NEC) section 220 instead of 12 months of usage data. Also, they can add, subtract, or completely ignore any or all of the building code (NEC), so the NEC may not apply to you.
The NEC had a separate section with special requirements for car charging or EVSE equipment, section 625 and that section refers you back to chapters 1,2,&3 for added requirements.
Can you install a charger without paying for an electrician, yes. There are a lot of requirements and rules to follow that they "mess" with every day. I encourage everyone to make sure that get the best information, the inspectors, a pro, or your own research. Just remember that a pro does this work every day and may be able to help you avoid problems you did not know you had, you might work out a deal where they give you the knowledge and you do the install.
Finally,. KNOWLEDGE IS THE TREASURE YOU CAN GIVE ALL OF YOURS AWAY AND STILL HAVE WHAT YOU STARTED WITH. So, is it stealing if you get it for free by asking?
And thanks for yours.
The electrical code equation in the video is that standard across the US or specific to CA ?
It is applicable across *most jurisdictions that abide by the national electrical code, which is most of the US.
So what size wire would you use for this 60amp breaker?
Rob, check this video out: th-cam.com/video/TenDt45gH_4/w-d-xo.html skip to the recommended wire size chart.
You also need to ask what your car can handle. I got my wife a Tesla Model X in 2016 and it can only take 40 amps. I remember they had an option to get dual chargers to take 80 amps, but I don't see that option any more. I recently got a model 3 and it can only charge at 32 amps.
Thanks for sharing your experience Phil. I'm a little confused on why your model X wouldn't handle more than 40 amps at home when at a supercharging station it can do, 150KVA, 250KVA and even 350KVA. Max charge setting for residential Tesla wall connector is 48A which is 11.520KVA. It must be a software bug/glitch.
@@dgtv3320 The superchargers convert the AC to DC using large equipment at the site and charge the battery directly with 400-600 volts. When plugged into level 1/2 chargers, the 120 or 240v AC is converted to DC using an on board charger, and that's limited to 40 amps on my wife's X and 32 on my 3. Like I said, when I bought my wife's model X, I had the option to pay extra for a second on board charger to allow it to accept 80 amps of AC power, but I didn't get it since I didn't see any need for it.
@Phillip Susi sounds like hardware (and maybe some software involved as well, as you have to pay to get it unlocked). Tesla charging you extra is ridiculous! Totally agree with you it is not needed at all. Not sure if the new vehicles have this limitation, (new limit might be 48A) but i cannot confirm.
@@dgtv3320 Yea, it was actually adding additional hardware. I just looked it up and apparently now all but the model 3 RWD support 48 amps with no option for higher, with the RWD limited to 32.
Yeah makes sense. thanks for sharing.
Man ! this is one of the best and simple explanations have ever seen . awesome job and thanks !!
this is an awesome video
please considering making a higher quality and more engaging one, i am pretty sure you will get lots of views ! :)