Ok, so here's my take on this debate. I had a 04 Ford F150 with the 5.4 V8, it had a noisy valve train from day one. I was using Mobil1 and changed to Amsoil just see if there was a difference and there was, no more noise, just the clicking of the injectors and nothing else after about a month of driving. I also have a '12 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 5.7 Hemi that is notorious for the "Hemi tick" problem, at 120k miles on Amsoil, mine is as quiet as a church mouse. Finally I have a '01 Toyota Camry V6 that I inherited from my Dad when he passed in '13. He always had it serviced at Toyota using Toyota brand oil. When I first got the car the valve covers were leaking so I did the gaskets and the top of the heads and valve covers were caramel colored with a small amount of sludge in the corners by the oil return passages. I switched it to Amsoil at that time and after about a year and a half (3 oil changes later) I got to do the job again due to crappy aftermarket gaskets. When I took the valve covers off again the engine was spotless with no varnish at all. I believe in Amsoil's claims, no doubt whatsoever. I change my oil at 6k miles or 6 months whichever comes first, I know that this is overkill to a lot of people but I keep my cars (except the Ford) for at least 10 years and believe in using high quality oil and filters to keep them running for the long haul.
Looking at the test results, the Amsoil had a TBN of 4.9 and the Mobil 1 had a TBN of 3.7. That is an indication of the quality and quantity of the additive package used in each oil. When I look at the test results of the oil I used after 5K, 7.5K and 10K changes, I've always found the Amsoil numbers were still good enough to continue using the oil even longer. That also being stated by the testing lab. Good video. Thanks.
@whatyaknowjoe67 no need for amsoil gore me either I change oil often on my coyote short trips is terrible 10k on amsoil would be just stupid in a ford unless all hwy miles
@@justingill5256 10K on a naturally aspirated engine with Amsoil isn’t crazy. I’ve been changing my wife’s oil one a year at roughly 11K miles for over 15 years. The oil always test good for base number. I wouldn’t do that with a turbo engine though.
@highball7347 this such a dumb statement or argument, If you live in a colder climate, ethanol also causes Oil dilution. You drive short trips no matter what oil lol you will get build up sludge also Direct injection definitely some oil dilution in ring lands. Lots of cold starts etc. Do not compare to regular highway driving.Yes, totally fine to run longer intervals.This is so stupid people just say know matter driving conditions it's good for 10k even towing max weight 🤣
Any good Synthetic oil changed every 5k miles with the filter will exceed your engine's requirements. Along with no sludge, and minimal wear. No MLM Amsoil needed! 3rd generation mechanic and engine builder.
I agree. If your Canadian, in Montana, North Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, going to Maine the Amsoil Signature is great for the brutal cold. If you're in the middle of some Lake far from help the truck has to start. that's why I use the Signature Series in my truck. I'm lucky I got a cousin That's a dealer so I get it at the best price.
Wrong you drive short trips cold temps with synthetic oil you will get build-up in 5k. Vct system runs off oil pressure some engines will get oil dilution from direct injection
They did pretty similar. I like the moly and boron levels in the Amsoil. If you're a Amsoil Preferred Customer, Signature Series 5W-30 is $11.89 per quart or $44.29 a gallon ($11.07 per qtr.).
Yeah, but they also want 20 bucks (annually) for the "privilege". That instantly erases any savings since they claim that their oil is good for 25K miles which is substantially more than the average motorist drives annually. This scenario fits the category of "marketing for dummies 101" (not including people who drive 50K miles or more every year).
Why run a premium oil but a junk filter? That defeats the purpose. Using g avoid quality premium synthetic oil filter or a extreme high end Wix filter is the only true way of knowing the oil samples. The more junk you remove with the filter? The longer any oil will survive. Now you gotta add on weather in your area. HEAT, RAIN. MOISTURE, COLD, AND SO FORTH. He is a good example, my 2009 Chevy Suburban with a 5.3L 6 speed automatic transmission. I used 5w30 Mobil1 for the first two years and the oil would be thick at 8000 miles when I changed it. Used A premium synthetic oil filter. I switched to Amsoil because I talked to Lake Speed Jr for several hours on what oil blend is the best to use before even mentioning the oil name. He told me the 5w30 is recommended so I asked him if Amsoil Is good to use? Most definitely he said. I change our oil out at 12,000 miles with the same exact premium synthetic oil filter as the Mobil1 used. My oil samples have been saying I can go additional 2000 plus miles on my current driving habits. The Mobil1 would burned my engine up long before I hit 12000 miles on it. No, I'm not a dealer or spokesperson for Amsoil, matter of fact I only recommend Boutique premium synthetic oil and Extreme high quality oil filters that's recommended by a well known Tribologist, not a garage man doing these types of test. Lake told me there is other better Boutique premium synthetic oils out there but you are fine using Amsoil.
@@garykarenmcgruther6386 may i know what is the brand of the Extreme high quality oil filters that's recommended by a well known Tribologist. And what is the name of that well known tribologist. And lastly may i know what is the brand of the other better Boutique premium synthetic oils out there that Lake told you about.
My 07 Honda pilot is currently at 160k + miles, runs smooth. I use Amsoil signature series & High mileage every 8000 miles. Also using Amsoil signature for the transmission and transfer case. 8:47 Years ago I stopped using Mobile 1 because my Honda pilot was burning about 1 quart of oil every 4000 miles. No more oil burning issues with amsoil every 8000 miles. I also had good experience with Castrol edge and Pennzoil ultra platinum. But in my case Amsoil has been the best for my 2007 3.5 V6 Honda pilot.
I just came across your review, well done.I too have a 3.5 Ecoboost and use Mobil1 full synthetic and MotorCraft filter at my dealer here in Nova Scotia Canada 🇨🇦. My interval is 8000kms, with some travel trailer towing,relatively short distances on weekends. Many on TH-cam have tried to convince me to ditch the Mobil 1,saying its complete trash.But you just proved that my interval should be just fine! My 3.5 runs A1 @123,000,never a cold start rattle,smooth as butter.Never consumes a drop either.Would Amsoil be the winner is a much longer interval? Idk,but I think Mobil 1 isn't as bad as its made out to be.Thanks for your video....time now to schedule my next service 😊
@whatyaknowjoe67 I'm sure there are better oils than Mobil 1 without a doubt.But whenever I pressed those who were against Mobil 1 for proof of engine failure related to Mobil 1 use,no one could give me proof.I have also seen strong evidence that 0w40 is a good grade for Ecoboost engines.
So what oil are you running or trust the most? I’m trying to decide between running valvoline extended/high mileage, Pennzoil ultra platinum or Amsoil.
At these lower intervals most of the times there isn't much difference the oil test will tell you. Once you go closer to a year and closer to 10k miles you will really see the difference. Also the difference in detergents and how clean the engine is something else that is different.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 Glad you did oil test instead of just speaking about it. I can't speak for everyone but I uploaded a video sample I took of a 17k mile oil sample in about 9 months in a Hyundai 2L gdi engine with positive results.
Appreciate the effort man but the way you laid this out was very confusing. I have no clue if those are supposed to be side by side numbers or what. Then you say this is also numbers from other brands but you don’t have brands listed above any of them.
Let me explain it this way…it doesn’t matter what brand of oil that you use…just change it between 5-6k miles and your engine will last a long time. Lot of marketing hype out there.
It seems to me that all major brand synthetic oils (Mobil, Pennzoil, Valvoline, Amsoil, Castrol...) perform almost identically up to 5-6K mile drain intervals. Therefore, spending almost double on Amsoil makes no sense unless the range is increased to at least 12 -15K miles before another oil change is done.
Good possibility…I thought about that but don’t want to Risk testing in my personal vehicles. I feel that the oil would get pretty dirty in that amount of miles as well.
Mobil 1 has the weakest film strength on the market when the oil warms up as far as additives and other benefits Amsoil has it weighed over mobile one and number one cannot come nowhere close to Amsoil on numbers
I have been using Mobile one synthetic motor oil since 1994. Currently at Walmart you can buy a 5 gallon jug of mobile one synthetic oil for less than $30. All our cars, 2016 Chevy volt 2020 Toyota Highlander hybrid and our 2022 RAV4 prime plug-in hybrid Have Mobil one
Yes but remember there are several Mobil ones. The Extended Performance I believe being the best one. The Annual Performance was their top of the line, and the cost was quite a bit higher, but I don't believe they make it any longer.
I have a suspicion that Amsoil’s success is largely attributed to its marketing strategy. It selects thought leaders among men who are into cars and trucks and markets the products through them. I am sure it is of a decent quality but many (not all) die-hard fans are financially incentivized to spread the word through social media etc. Very similar to Avon when female fashion leaders were distributing cosmetics. Not saying both are bad products but one has to know why someone is raving about it. I like this video, especially because the author stated he is not affiliated with either. Happy driving!
Thank you…just wanted to learn for my own knowledge…and thought my followers would like to know as well. Only one test…but I’m sure more would be similar
My first experience with Amsoil was in 2000 when I bought a snowmobile from a buddy and it came with a jug of Amsoil. I stuck with it and never gave it another thought. Machine sat for a couple years and so I took it in to have the carbs cleaned and tuned up. Tech said I needed to follow the schedule for cleaning the exhaust valves (every several hundred kilometers). Sled at 3400kilometers on it at that time and I told him I had never cleaned them. He asked what oil I used and told him. He said he figur d as it was the best two stroke oil on the market bar none. I started using in my vehicles and small engines and still am. My 2014 F150 has 320000kilometers on the 3.5L ecoboost and it is still all original internally and never had any cold start rattles or never added an oz to top off to this day.
hmmmm, really? Don't you think that is what the name brand company's do still today? Die hard fans for Mobile oil OR Penzoil, OR Casteroil, OR any other Name brand out there?
Standard filter for all Ford 2.7l and many other engines for quite a while. Much easier, cleaner to change. Cap seals one end, other side sealed inside.
JOE you shoulda used an old rig like my 92 Escape 4x4 with 210,000 on it...I`ve done changes every 3-5,000 W/either Penzoil 5w-40 or Castrol GTX since I did the head & oil pan gaskets @ 75 & 150 ...It`s a very underrated 6 banger that had issues with the front end suspension, but once a fella BUMPS that up a notch she handles like a dream
My Cajun Queen is jealous, our Lil girls were so temperamental about those presents we offered, she wished ours would`ve been as welcoming of a Ford, but maybe going to school in her Saab could`ve been the reason
To each their own. Used both and prefer Amsoil. I am not sure what changed in Mobil 1 formulation but preferred what i got in the 80's90'sver current but again .....
This is just my experience I’m not saying which oil to pick I have a 2018 Mustang with the 5.0 and it has been running Amsoil after a 1000 miles was put on the car the car now has 50,000 miles it runs smooth but the biggest difference i noticed was I have friends that have 5.0 mustang from 2013 all the way to 2023 and some run mobile 1 some Motorcraft oil or penzoil my mustang is the only one that doesn’t have what’s known as the coyote tick I don’t know if I just got lucky with the car or maybe Amsoil is just better but This is just my experience
Probably just your experience! I have a boosted 2019 5.0 Mustang with 88,000 miles and has had Mobil 1 since 5,000 miles no tick! I’ve also run it in every boosted and NA Bracket race cars over the years and Mobil 1 has always performed as expected! But I do believe any good Synthetic oil is the way to go!
@@whatyaknowjoe67 maybe, but I doubt it. AMSOIL is some pretty amazing stuff. Put some strain on it, you'll see. It's not magical, it's engineering and science, it's just darn good. Now if I didn't use it myself, I'd probably use HPL- High Performance Lubricants, but That's darn expensive! So I probably would use the top Mobil One in that case.
Mobile One ESP X2 in our 3.0 Duramax. Great oil, inexpensive and has Dexos D certification from GM. Amsoil markets an oil that meets DexosD spec but is actually NOT licensed by GM as a DexosD oil so they could give you warranty hassles if they wanted to. Makes mobile one EXP X2 the clear winner for the 3.0 duramax due to wide availability at Walmart, low cost $28 for a 5qt jug, and it is actually certified by GM so no warranty concerns.
Great video! Truly objective! Showed all brands reduced wear well for approx. 6,000 miles. No point in extending changes further because modern engines need to stay clean inside to avoid serious problems like deposit frozen piston oil control rings and deposit clogged VVti oil flow control valve filter screens.
That won't happen with premium oils. Their base oils are polar neutral so they don't have the propensity to attract oxygen like lesser oils do. Oxygen mixed with the byproducts of combustion along with heat, condensation and possibly some fuel dilution combine to oxidize and form varnish and sludge. Premium oils don't have that tendency so they can run longer with no detrimental effects. Making them cost efficient as well.
@@oneninerniner3427 Amsoil Signature is 3 times more expensive than Mobil 1. Imagine what an oil analysis of Amsoil that was used for 18,000 miles would look like vs an analysis of Mobil 1 that was used for 6,000.
Mobile one been my go to since 1995. I was a amsoil dealer one time in my life I couldn’t make no money on it. Back to mobile one not paying twice the money for nothing. Use to run Amsoil in my 2 stroke bikes and snowmobiles great oil very clean protects very well. But now its so much money im going to try mystic oil for almost half the cost per gallon. My father been running mystic in is snowmobiles and they run great. I have a old 2001 honda CR 125 dirt bike the amsoil has been amazing still on original crank piston lasts forever with Amsoil cylinder still has factory cross hatch so definitely great oil. Be fun to see how Mystic will be im hoping aa good but idk.
Doesn't AMSOIL Signature Series go for 20k miles or 1 year? And according to Mobile 1 their product protects for 10k miles. So a better analysis would be at 10k and 20k miles respectively. Essentially a test of AMSOIL at 6k miles is only 1/4 life. Where a test of Mobile 1 at 6k miles is just over 1/2 life. Subsequently, we also need to question the oil filter used. An AMSOIL oil filter will match the change interval of 20k miles for Signature Series. After those considerations, we should then examine cost. Assuming your truck is a v8 you more than likely need 8.8 quarts, so we will round up to 9 quarts. AMSOIL Signature Series 5W-20 is $15.49 per quart at retail price. Retail for Mobile 1 5w-20 is $8.78 per quart. An AMOSIL filter costs $19.05. And a Wix filter costs $9.99. So AMSOIL would be $158.46 + tax. Mobile 1 would be $88.99 + tax. According to FHWA and NHTS the national average miles driven per year is between 12k-15k miles. This means that if you are using Mobile 1 you need to change your oil at least 2x per year (@ 10k miles, per Mobile 1). This means that your annual cost of maintenance to run Mobile 1 is at least $177.98 per year. As opposed to AMSOIL at $158.46 per year. There are lots of other factors that need to be taken into account starting with the overal comparison of Mobile 1 Full Synthetic versus AMSOIL Signature as this is not a direct comparison. As both Mobile and AMSOIL have a complete lineup of synthetic oils based on customer need. Furthermore, an oil analysis of both oils at 10k miles, which is the limitation of the Mobile 1 product used in your video. Additionally you did not mention if you replaced the filter during your oil change and if so what filter did you use? Then there are factors regarding time. How much do you value your time. Do you like changing your oil. If you are going to change your oil more frequently do you need to use an oil rated to 20k or 10k miles?
Mobil one also has a 20k mile oil. I would NEVER run my oil that long…just my opinion. Both have fine print to cover themselves. Both are good at marketing.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 but thats not what you compared! You compared a 10k oil to a 20k oil and eluded that they were the same. My point is if you want an OE oil, which provides oil change intervals that follow the manufacturer guidelines typically 5-k-7k miles than that would make more sense.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 which Mobil One though? There are several different ones you know? As well as there are several different tiers of AMSOIL, with Signature Series being top of the line, then Extended-Life, then the High Milage, and the OE being the lowest price gasoline engine 100% Synthetic. Also the $15 for SS is for a single quart online, full cases are less, as well as gallons. Preferred Customer prices are even better.
I use Kirkland synthetic from Costco. I’m no genius for sure but any actual mechanic I talk to that does engine tear downs all day the same thing. Clean oil is the best oil, regardless of brand. It’s worked for me all of these in vehicles well over 250k.
Paying extra for??? Exactly nothing. There has Never been a conclusive test proving less wear on engine components using Amsoil!! When you understand the purpose of oil on internal engine components then you will understand why Amsoil has no added benefits.
Amsoil marketing is a little strange, but I don’t care the product speaks for itself!! Been a mechanic for over 40 years and I think it’s the best oil on the planet!!
@@whatyaknowjoe67 it holds up to the heat better than any other oil. In my opinion I especially use it on turbo cars that produce a lot of heat doesn’t have the coking problems that other oils have. The base oil is a higher quality also. I have a twin turbo BMW the motor just run smoother with Amsoil. Especially at the higher heat levels.
The reason Amsoil is more expensive and in my opinion better….at least in my 6.7 high output Powerstroke diesel is because Amsoil is the ONLY oil that is 100 percent synthetic. Mobil one is NOT, by law if a an oil has only 25 percent synthetic oil in it then it can be called “full synthetic “ but if you note only Amsoil is the one that says “100 percent synthetic “. The conventional oil in your Mobil one leads to more deposits and has a much lower vapor point than Amsoil and remember this……your turbo gets hot and cooks that oil and it sticks to the turbo bearings and journals. It’s not just about the engine anymore but also the turbo.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 They were already done in a way with a hot plate and Pyrex container with all types of oil. My attention was focused on the Amsoil diesel 10w30 diesel signature series vs other diesel oils because I own a diesel. I don’t know if diesel oil is different from gas engine oil but Amsoil won. It really comes down to engine deposits, burn off and fuel dilution for a diesel, but also turbo gassers do not need oil deposits on those bearings and they get HOT because they are spinning hundreds of thousands times a minute ! Yea it was a shocker for me when I found that out. YIKES !
I'm sure Amsoil will perform slightly better without watching the video... my argument for Mobil 1 advanced is that I can regularly buy a box of 6qts at Costco for $34. Mobil1 isn't the best but its a great value when purchased at Costco on sale.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 Haha I did. Thanks for the video, I was surprised at how close they were. It blows my mind when people swear by these high dollar synthetics and go spend nearly $100 on the oil alone. I've done 5k oil change intervals on my 2021 3.5 ecoboost f150 and it runs great. I'm about to hit 75k miles and i'll be changing the oil myself this weekend with Mobil1 Advanced.
Only the Amsoil Signature Series is 100% synthetic. The rest of the Amsoil motor oils are Class 3 oil. Nothing wrong with the class 3 oils. Mobil 1, Quaker State, and Castrol are Class 3 and they say they'll go 20,000 miles. The PAO in Amsoil Signature is best especially in the very northern states and up into Canada because it flows faster. If your in the mid states to the south class 3 oils will be more than good enough to start up easily in the cold. If you're in Missouri to Virginia on South cold flow isn't as important because it's not that cold no matter what people may think living there. Mobil 1 is the best of the class 3 oils for cold weather start ups going down to -30F in my area. I use Mobil 1 in all the Toyotas and my wife's Lexus. In my 2014 5.3 Silverado I've been using Amsoil Signature 0W-20. Deactivate the V4 thing with the plug in deal so it's V8 all the time .
@@whatyaknowjoe67it's under the dash area in my truck. I plug it in and it's stays in V8 all the time. No V-4 to V-8 stuff for me. Had it's plugin for many years.
Dyno and seat of the pants test show AMSOIL is majorly superior. Gale Banks said Mobil 1 left cracks all over his parts where amsoil had none. But w/ Mobile or Valvoline racing they are not as smooth in my Ford 390.
@@whatyaknowjoe67if you compare mobile one to signature series you should compare it to mobile extended performance or there higher end mobile not the lowest one..
I change mine 3K miles with Mobil 1. I don't have any issues. I just wait for walmart to put them on sale, Grab one box and life is good. It not the quality, it's how frequent you do it.
The quality allegedly affects the interval that is safe. But so does your driving style and probably environment. That interval affects the cost per mile as much as the cost per quart does. If the "guaranteed" safe interval could be a known legit number, Amsoil would probably be the least cost per mile. Not counting the time spent changing it. I just don't know how to validate it or who has if it has been.
Nope. It is the quality. Certainly driving style effects any lubricant. But, put some strain on em! AMSOIL will come out on top. I know it will, I've tested it, hard! Many times.
@@uncrunch398 I normally drove my truck like 80 miles a day. Mostly 90% highway and 10% secondary road. I found more smooth with the 3K oil and filter change. I use 0w20 Mobil 1 Advance. I found this baxter performance upgrade to switch from canister oil filter to an oil spin type for easy and fast change oil. Works well for my Taco.
Got a cab ride from a guy at Vancouver BC airport last month and he'd just turned over 1 million km on the original motor in a 6 year old Toyota Prius. Guy sliced through traffic like Earnhardt at Talladega he had two throttle positions 100% or zero. He claimed it was just using cheapest stuff Canadian Tire had on sale but keeping up the maintenance. Some folks can get too anal about stuff like motor oil.
@@geshtal2056 Because they won’t pay for a certification they are bad ? They also won’t pay Ford or GM “like Mobil does” to be on their list. Amsoil doesn’t need to do that. They are the best and they know it and people that really know engines know it. When you are at the top you don’t need to look down. They are the ONLY oil that is 100 percent synthetic. You get what you pay for.
@@geshtal2056 Ummm check their diesel oils and you won’t find that at any levels different then the “certified “. Do you have my idea how much it costs to get “certified “ by an auto manufacturer and listed as an “approved oil” by them ? Also the oil IS approved to be used in automotive applications and covered by the Magnuson-Moss act in which a auto manufacturer cannot deny any liability or claim due to the customer performing their own service using any accepted and approved engine oil or other fluids ie generic brake fluid of the correct dot rating in their vehicle. So it is approved to be used in vehicles. It cost Mobil millions of dollars a year to remain on GM’s preferred list. Amsoil is just not going to pay that because they don’t have to, so why not ? Because they know what they have and they won’t release all the proprietary ingredients and amounts thereof or the manufacturing process that it takes to produce it. Would you pay all that money and just give all your information to a giant company just to get their stamp of approval ? I wouldn’t. If you look at the list of “approved” oils you won’t find any truly high performance oil companies on it, and the Mobile 1 you buy at the store is not the same Mobile 1 sold to customers in high performance applications. Look, I know it’s expensive but it is worth it if you keep your vehicle over 10 years like I do. I did tons of research before I chose an oil, I looked at Amsoil, Schaffers, Hotshot, Mobil, Rotella and more. I called the companies asked questions that pertained to my driving style and needs…that is why I am not running a PAO type oil in my diesel. I know diesel oil wars can be volatile among people that are brand loyal but brand loyalty won’t help your engine. But again I am talking about me and my 6.7 high output diesel. I ran Penzoil platinum ultra in my wife’s jeep (🤮 I hate jeeps) for 9 years and it preformed well. I only change a brand of oil once at the first 5k miles and stick with it thru the life of my ownership because I feel that the different additives and detergent packages in them may not be really compatible with each other and wear on seals and gaskets over time given their combination. Yes I am very OCD about my vehicles but it has worked out for me.
@@armedprophet3321Plus when you are a preferred customer, which as of now, is ONLY $20/year, you get price discounts on everything. At some point people will only make excuses to not spend $2-3 more/quart, but are willing to take a chance on having to shell out $1000s of dollars in repairs in the future for their cars because they didn't want to do the best they could on maintenance. Amsoil now even offers synthetic blend oils for those who want to spend less money on oil and want the best quality out there. No excuses anymore.
Great comparison. My research I found out Amsoil was not the first company to sell Synthetic oil. Fact is all the oil company's sold it. You will find pictures of them online. Fact is the collusion between Car company's and Oil company's in the 1970's was to make a cheaper oil so the engines wore out faster. That is why if you tore down an engine from that time like I had, they were plugged up with all the crude from the cheap oils they sold. They blocked up oil pumps, oil chambers, build up under the valve covers of this thick mess. WHY? no detergents were used in these oils, unlike today's oils do. I had to put my heads and block into a hot engine cleaning machine, it took 24hrs for the wash cycle to clean these items. The oil company's complied with the scam and tried to sway Amsoil to follow along. Amsoil REFUSED to follow there collusion and kept on selling their Synthetic oils and improving them as the years went by. Air craft industry uses Synthetic oils in their engines still today. The other fact is Racing cars ALWAYS use Synthetic oils in their engines even way back in the 60's to present day. These name brands hide that fact and still sold Synthetic oils to them. As you may know, these are not cheap engines to race with.
Racing engines used lots of paraffinic base oils because they are very good oils. Castor oils also. Most of todays synthetics are not even real synthetics, just a little bit better refined mineral oils.
The group III synthetic oils are highly refined hydrocracked petroleum based lower class synthetic oils. Which is what you will find most common off the self synthetic oils are and they are cheaper to formulate. Sure they are better than conventional oils, but not as good as Group IV & V premium synthetics which are chemically synthesized man made synthetics. Jet engines have always used group V Ester base synthetics because it is the only lubricant that can stand up to the extremes a jet engine endures. But they aren't necessarily the right oils for piston engine ground vehicles either. So usually it's a group IV PAO base for premium synthetic oils & lubricants for piston engines. Racers usually always use high end synthetics for the same reason, they can stand up to the task. Depending somewhat on what fuels they use. But racing oils aren't necessarily the proper formulations for daily drivers either.
Not complaining…just like to get the best value for my dollar…what’s wrong with that?? Sometimes the hyped up over-priced items don’t perform any better than the low cost.
There's a channel called repairvehicle. The guy opened up a filter used together with Amsoil. You could see the carbon from the engine getting dissolved and trapped in the filter. So that higher cost does pay off. Still, most any oil changed on time will work fine.
Your interval is as much a factor as price per quantity for cost per mile. See if you can figure the optimal interval for each and see which costs less then. I used to drive a Ford Focus and went way beyond extended interval, but feathered it as much as I could. The lubed parts still looked new nearing 300k miles on IDK what oil the previous owner used, but Pennzoil Platinum when I added some. So, maybe most people are changing it far more often than needed. I think I had put > 50k miles on it before my first visit to a lube shop with it. Driving was a mix of country and city.
Yes but changing oil that often? You could save time, hassle and money by extending that interval by two or maybe even three times that by using a premium oil and still have no detrimental effects. Possibly even less wear and deposits. It's been tried and proven many many times.
Absolutely not a Mobil 1 fan. Pennzoil, Valvoline & Havoline synthetics are worlds better according to my oil reports. As far as Amsoil, sure it’s a great oil but I’d never pay that kind of money for it.
Run the cheapest "banana oil" on special .Change it frequently and you'll never need to watch a "best of oils" video on TH-cam ever again. Just take it easy on a cold engine.
After watching soooo many videos on Amsoil, MB 1, Pennzoil, I have to say I'm more confused. I'm old school, every 3K, maybe stuck in the past but I agree with you, just change it regularly 😊.
Ok, So Amsoil doesn't drill for oil and they aren't a refinery per say. It's not a big secret. They buy their base products from the big companies just as many other companies do. But they are very selective about the components and additives they use. They have chemical engineering labs and dyno test cells they use to continually torture test engines and machinery to improve their formulas, many times meeting or exceeding new specs before they even come out. They don't have a board of directors or stockholders to answer to make maximum profits from the cheapest components to just barely meet a minimum spec. AMSOIL usually far exceeds any minimum specs by using the best available components to formulate the best lubricants possible. That's what I like!
The aluminum was going up slowly every oil change by the chart, It was more then likely reaching the next level (5) when the Amsoil was used, Since it was last. This and you are a joke to act like this video shows anything but Ignorance. If you would of ran the Mobile 1 after the Amsoil the Mobile 1 would of had 5 for aluminum and the Amsoil 4 The chart shows the Aluminum gong up every oil change, Anything for a TH-cam attention right!
We are talking PPM (that's parts per million) ...the (new) Diagnostix reports shows 3 for aluminum for both oil samples and actually higher iron 7 vs 6 for the Amsoil. All within margin of error. Fact is both oils are performing great at 6K miles. I'm not interested in pushing out the interval. And I'm not ignorant enough to pay almost double the price for the same performance in MY situation. This works for me...no need to get personal.
I knew Amsoil wasn't any better than the others....only difference is more TBN so you can go longer on changes only advantage......If your doing 5000-7000 miles oil changes like any normal person there is practically zero difference.....wear metals proved that
Ok, so here's my take on this debate. I had a 04 Ford F150 with the 5.4 V8, it had a noisy valve train from day one. I was using Mobil1 and changed to Amsoil just see if there was a difference and there was, no more noise, just the clicking of the injectors and nothing else after about a month of driving. I also have a '12 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 5.7 Hemi that is notorious for the "Hemi tick" problem, at 120k miles on Amsoil, mine is as quiet as a church mouse. Finally I have a '01 Toyota Camry V6 that I inherited from my Dad when he passed in '13. He always had it serviced at Toyota using Toyota brand oil. When I first got the car the valve covers were leaking so I did the gaskets and the top of the heads and valve covers were caramel colored with a small amount of sludge in the corners by the oil return passages. I switched it to Amsoil at that time and after about a year and a half (3 oil changes later) I got to do the job again due to crappy aftermarket gaskets. When I took the valve covers off again the engine was spotless with no varnish at all.
I believe in Amsoil's claims, no doubt whatsoever. I change my oil at 6k miles or 6 months whichever comes first, I know that this is overkill to a lot of people but I keep my cars (except the Ford) for at least 10 years and believe in using high quality oil and filters to keep them running for the long haul.
I never noticed any sound difference but interesting
@@whatyaknowjoe67had you switched to high mileage Mobil 1 it would have stopped also....
Looking at the test results, the Amsoil had a TBN of 4.9 and the Mobil 1 had a TBN of 3.7. That is an indication of the quality and quantity of the additive package used in each oil. When I look at the test results of the oil I used after 5K, 7.5K and 10K changes, I've always found the Amsoil numbers were still good enough to continue using the oil even longer. That also being stated by the testing lab. Good video. Thanks.
Thanks
@whatyaknowjoe67 no need for amsoil gore me either I change oil often on my coyote short trips is terrible 10k on amsoil would be just stupid in a ford unless all hwy miles
Not stupid. Change your thinking, not your oil.
@@justingill5256 10K on a naturally aspirated engine with Amsoil isn’t crazy.
I’ve been changing my wife’s oil one a year at roughly 11K miles for over 15 years.
The oil always test good for base number.
I wouldn’t do that with a turbo engine though.
@highball7347 this such a dumb statement or argument, If you live in a colder climate, ethanol also causes Oil dilution. You drive short trips no matter what oil lol you will get build up sludge also Direct injection definitely some oil dilution in ring lands. Lots of cold starts etc. Do not compare to regular highway driving.Yes, totally fine to run longer intervals.This is so stupid people just say know matter driving conditions it's good for 10k even towing max weight 🤣
Any good Synthetic oil changed every 5k miles with the filter will exceed your engine's requirements. Along with no sludge, and minimal wear. No MLM Amsoil needed! 3rd generation mechanic and engine builder.
Yes, Even Walmart's! I have seen 400k miles on engines with it zero problems!
Agreed
I agree. If your Canadian, in Montana, North Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, going to Maine the Amsoil Signature is great for the brutal cold. If you're in the middle of some Lake far from help the truck has to start. that's why I use the Signature Series in my truck. I'm lucky I got a cousin That's a dealer so I get it at the best price.
@@NorthlanderMN What is your oil change interval with the signature series?
Wrong you drive short trips cold temps with synthetic oil you will get build-up in 5k. Vct system runs off oil pressure some engines will get oil dilution from direct injection
They did pretty similar. I like the moly and boron levels in the Amsoil. If you're a Amsoil Preferred Customer, Signature Series 5W-30 is $11.89 per quart or $44.29 a gallon ($11.07 per qtr.).
That’s a better price for sure.
$25 a gallon for Mobil 1 at Walmart.
@@4af, actually, it's 5 quarts, not a gallon, even better deal! 🙂
😂😂 keep over paying for this garbage
Yeah, but they also want 20 bucks (annually) for the "privilege". That instantly erases any savings since they claim that their oil is good for 25K miles which is substantially more than the average motorist drives annually. This scenario fits the category of "marketing for dummies 101" (not including people who drive 50K miles or more every year).
The filters are what make the difference, Both are good oils
I’ve always used OEM filters
Why run a premium oil but a junk filter? That defeats the purpose. Using g avoid quality premium synthetic oil filter or a extreme high end Wix filter is the only true way of knowing the oil samples. The more junk you remove with the filter? The longer any oil will survive. Now you gotta add on weather in your area. HEAT, RAIN. MOISTURE, COLD, AND SO FORTH. He is a good example, my 2009 Chevy Suburban with a 5.3L 6 speed automatic transmission. I used 5w30 Mobil1 for the first two years and the oil would be thick at 8000 miles when I changed it. Used A premium synthetic oil filter. I switched to Amsoil because I talked to Lake Speed Jr for several hours on what oil blend is the best to use before even mentioning the oil name. He told me the 5w30 is recommended so I asked him if Amsoil Is good to use? Most definitely he said. I change our oil out at 12,000 miles with the same exact premium synthetic oil filter as the Mobil1 used. My oil samples have been saying I can go additional 2000 plus miles on my current driving habits. The Mobil1 would burned my engine up long before I hit 12000 miles on it. No, I'm not a dealer or spokesperson for Amsoil, matter of fact I only recommend Boutique premium synthetic oil and Extreme high quality oil filters that's recommended by a well known Tribologist, not a garage man doing these types of test. Lake told me there is other better Boutique premium synthetic oils out there but you are fine using Amsoil.
@@garykarenmcgruther6386 may i know what is the brand of the Extreme high quality oil filters that's recommended by a well known Tribologist. And what is the name of that well known tribologist. And lastly may i know what is the brand of the other better Boutique premium synthetic oils out there that Lake told you about.
Test will be more precise if you send a before and after sample of the oils.
Good idea…hopefully the wear components are low or non-existent in the virgin oil
My 07 Honda pilot is currently at 160k + miles, runs smooth. I use Amsoil signature series & High mileage every 8000 miles. Also using Amsoil signature for the transmission and transfer case. 8:47
Years ago I stopped using Mobile 1 because my Honda pilot was burning about 1 quart of oil every 4000 miles. No more oil burning issues with amsoil every 8000 miles.
I also had good experience with Castrol edge and Pennzoil ultra platinum. But in my case Amsoil has been the best for my 2007 3.5 V6 Honda pilot.
Interesting
I just came across your review, well done.I too have a 3.5 Ecoboost and use Mobil1 full synthetic and MotorCraft filter at my dealer here in Nova Scotia Canada 🇨🇦. My interval is 8000kms, with some travel trailer towing,relatively short distances on weekends. Many on TH-cam have tried to convince me to ditch the Mobil 1,saying its complete trash.But you just proved that my interval should be just fine! My 3.5 runs A1 @123,000,never a cold start rattle,smooth as butter.Never consumes a drop either.Would Amsoil be the winner is a much longer interval? Idk,but I think Mobil 1 isn't as bad as its made out to be.Thanks for your video....time now to schedule my next service 😊
Thanks for the comment…I’ve actually been using Mobil one for 16 years in all my engines. Not one problem
@whatyaknowjoe67 I'm sure there are better oils than Mobil 1 without a doubt.But whenever I pressed those who were against Mobil 1 for proof of engine failure related to Mobil 1 use,no one could give me proof.I have also seen strong evidence that 0w40 is a good grade for Ecoboost engines.
I also use Mobil 1 in my Ecoboost truck. Almost 130k miles zero engine issues and I pull a 24 foot camper!
@@owenhill-vf7ko perfect! So there is more proof it is not as bad as some say@
So what oil are you running or trust the most?
I’m trying to decide between running valvoline extended/high mileage, Pennzoil ultra platinum or Amsoil.
I’m going to stick with what I have been using for the past 15 years…Mobil one. Zero engine issues. All are good oils though
At these lower intervals most of the times there isn't much difference the oil test will tell you. Once you go closer to a year and closer to 10k miles you will really see the difference. Also the difference in detergents and how clean the engine is something else that is different.
Possibly
@@whatyaknowjoe67 Glad you did oil test instead of just speaking about it. I can't speak for everyone but I uploaded a video sample I took of a 17k mile oil sample in about 9 months in a Hyundai 2L gdi engine with positive results.
How can viscosities be exactly the same ?
I was wondering the same thing. I plan on reaching out to them
Appreciate the effort man but the way you laid this out was very confusing.
I have no clue if those are supposed to be side by side numbers or what.
Then you say this is also numbers from other brands but you don’t have brands listed above any of them.
Let me explain it this way…it doesn’t matter what brand of oil that you use…just change it between 5-6k miles and your engine will last a long time. Lot of marketing hype out there.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 I agree but Amsoil is the top oil for extended drains.
If you change it often it doesn’t matter.
It seems to me that all major brand synthetic oils (Mobil, Pennzoil, Valvoline, Amsoil, Castrol...) perform almost identically up to 5-6K mile drain intervals. Therefore, spending almost double on Amsoil makes no sense unless the range is increased to at least 12 -15K miles before another oil change is done.
Good possibility…I thought about that but don’t want to Risk testing in my personal vehicles. I feel that the oil would get pretty dirty in that amount of miles as well.
Mobil 1 has the weakest film strength on the market when the oil warms up as far as additives and other benefits Amsoil has it weighed over mobile one and number one cannot come nowhere close to Amsoil on numbers
My testing proves that wrong at least for my situation
I have been using Mobile one synthetic motor oil since 1994. Currently at Walmart you can buy a 5 gallon jug of mobile one synthetic oil for less than $30. All our cars, 2016 Chevy volt 2020 Toyota Highlander hybrid and our 2022 RAV4 prime plug-in hybrid
Have Mobil one
Yep…and Mobil one is available anywhere
Yes but remember there are several Mobil ones. The Extended Performance I believe being the best one. The Annual Performance was their top of the line, and the cost was quite a bit higher, but I don't believe they make it any longer.
All u need is standard M1@@oneninerniner3427
Does that truck have a cardboard skid plate?
Not cardboard but not metal neither. Off road pkg comes with the steel skid plates
I have a suspicion that Amsoil’s success is largely attributed to its marketing strategy. It selects thought leaders among men who are into cars and trucks and markets the products through them. I am sure it is of a decent quality but many (not all) die-hard fans are financially incentivized to spread the word through social media etc. Very similar to Avon when female fashion leaders were distributing cosmetics. Not saying both are bad products but one has to know why someone is raving about it.
I like this video, especially because the author stated he is not affiliated with either.
Happy driving!
Thank you…just wanted to learn for my own knowledge…and thought my followers would like to know as well. Only one test…but I’m sure more would be similar
My first experience with Amsoil was in 2000 when I bought a snowmobile from a buddy and it came with a jug of Amsoil. I stuck with it and never gave it another thought. Machine sat for a couple years and so I took it in to have the carbs cleaned and tuned up. Tech said I needed to follow the schedule for cleaning the exhaust valves (every several hundred kilometers). Sled at 3400kilometers on it at that time and I told him I had never cleaned them. He asked what oil I used and told him. He said he figur d as it was the best two stroke oil on the market bar none. I started using in my vehicles and small engines and still am. My 2014 F150 has 320000kilometers on the 3.5L ecoboost and it is still all original internally and never had any cold start rattles or never added an oz to top off to this day.
hmmmm, really? Don't you think that is what the name brand company's do still today? Die hard fans for Mobile oil OR Penzoil, OR Casteroil, OR any other Name brand out there?
exactly!
Mobil 1 been using it for years never had a problem
Me neither
I have a question... What good does that oil filter do with a hole in both ends ?
Standard filter for all Ford 2.7l and many other engines for quite a while. Much easier, cleaner to change. Cap seals one end, other side sealed inside.
Mobil 1 is excellent oil....id like to see Castrol Edge black bottle also....Great video.
I might add that to the testing…my guess is it isn’t any different
JOE you shoulda used an old rig like my 92 Escape 4x4 with 210,000 on it...I`ve done changes every 3-5,000 W/either Penzoil 5w-40 or Castrol GTX since I did the head & oil pan gaskets @ 75 & 150 ...It`s a very underrated 6 banger that had issues with the front end suspension, but once a fella BUMPS that up a notch she handles like a dream
Nice! Frequency I believe is most important. Had an older focus I bought for my daughter that just ran and ran.
My Cajun Queen is jealous, our Lil girls were so temperamental about those presents we offered, she wished ours would`ve been as welcoming of a Ford, but maybe going to school in her Saab could`ve been the reason
I've always considered Amsoil a big hype (too expensive!)
And hard to get
@@whatyaknowjoe67 Hard to get? In 5 minutes you can order it on the net and it'll be on your doorstep in a couple of days. Been doing it for years.
To each their own. Used both and prefer Amsoil. I am not sure what changed in Mobil 1 formulation but preferred what i got in the 80's90'sver current but again .....
Any data to support your decision…just curious
This is just my experience I’m not saying which oil to pick I have a 2018 Mustang with the 5.0 and it has been running Amsoil after a 1000 miles was put on the car the car now has 50,000 miles it runs smooth but the biggest difference i noticed was I have friends that have 5.0 mustang from 2013 all the way to 2023 and some run mobile 1 some Motorcraft oil or penzoil my mustang is the only one that doesn’t have what’s known as the coyote tick I don’t know if I just got lucky with the car or maybe Amsoil is just better but This is just my experience
Probably luck of the draw
Probably just your experience! I have a boosted 2019 5.0 Mustang with 88,000 miles and has had Mobil 1 since 5,000 miles no tick! I’ve also run it in every boosted and NA Bracket race cars over the years and Mobil 1 has always performed as expected! But I do believe any good Synthetic oil is the way to go!
@@whatyaknowjoe67 maybe, but I doubt it. AMSOIL is some pretty amazing stuff. Put some strain on it, you'll see. It's not magical, it's engineering and science, it's just darn good. Now if I didn't use it myself, I'd probably use HPL- High Performance Lubricants, but That's darn expensive! So I probably would use the top Mobil One in that case.
Mobile One ESP X2 in our 3.0 Duramax. Great oil, inexpensive and has Dexos D certification from GM. Amsoil markets an oil that meets DexosD spec but is actually NOT licensed by GM as a DexosD oil so they could give you warranty hassles if they wanted to. Makes mobile one EXP X2 the clear winner for the 3.0 duramax due to wide availability at Walmart, low cost $28 for a 5qt jug, and it is actually certified by GM so no warranty concerns.
Good points
Great video! Truly objective! Showed all brands reduced wear well for approx. 6,000 miles. No point in extending changes further because modern engines need to stay clean inside to avoid serious problems like deposit frozen piston oil control rings and deposit clogged VVti oil flow control valve filter screens.
Agreed
That won't happen with premium oils. Their base oils are polar neutral so they don't have the propensity to attract oxygen like lesser oils do. Oxygen mixed with the byproducts of combustion along with heat, condensation and possibly some fuel dilution combine to oxidize and form varnish and sludge. Premium oils don't have that tendency so they can run longer with no detrimental effects. Making them cost efficient as well.
@@oneninerniner3427 Amsoil Signature is 3 times more expensive than Mobil 1. Imagine what an oil analysis of Amsoil that was used for 18,000 miles would look like vs an analysis of Mobil 1 that was used for 6,000.
"Let's end this debate."
"Should you base your decision on the findings of this one test? No."
🤦♂️
That’s what I said…but you if amsoil was so good…you’d think it would have done better
Another well done video
Thank you!!
Both oils are wonderful
Yep…but I’m sticking with the more economical and easier to find Mobil one
Mobil 1 is excellent motor oil. Thank you for this test...id like to see Castrol Edge black bottle also.
Mobile one been my go to since 1995. I was a amsoil dealer one time in my life I couldn’t make no money on it. Back to mobile one not paying twice the money for nothing. Use to run Amsoil in my 2 stroke bikes and snowmobiles great oil very clean protects very well. But now its so much money im going to try mystic oil for almost half the cost per gallon.
My father been running mystic in is snowmobiles and they run great. I have a old 2001 honda CR 125 dirt bike the amsoil has been amazing still on original crank piston lasts forever with Amsoil cylinder still has factory cross hatch so definitely great oil. Be fun to see how Mystic will be im hoping aa good but idk.
I’m sure mystic will be just fine. I don’t believe there is a bad oil out there
Motul 8100 eco clean test? :)
Possibly…my limited research is telling me that’s it’s just another overly priced option though
How did the viscosity hold on the 2???
55-56 @ 210F
@@whatyaknowjoe67 solid!
Doesn't AMSOIL Signature Series go for 20k miles or 1 year? And according to Mobile 1 their product protects for 10k miles. So a better analysis would be at 10k and 20k miles respectively. Essentially a test of AMSOIL at 6k miles is only 1/4 life. Where a test of Mobile 1 at 6k miles is just over 1/2 life. Subsequently, we also need to question the oil filter used. An AMSOIL oil filter will match the change interval of 20k miles for Signature Series. After those considerations, we should then examine cost. Assuming your truck is a v8 you more than likely need 8.8 quarts, so we will round up to 9 quarts. AMSOIL Signature Series 5W-20 is $15.49 per quart at retail price. Retail for Mobile 1 5w-20 is $8.78 per quart. An AMOSIL filter costs $19.05. And a Wix filter costs $9.99. So AMSOIL would be $158.46 + tax. Mobile 1 would be $88.99 + tax. According to FHWA and NHTS the national average miles driven per year is between 12k-15k miles. This means that if you are using Mobile 1 you need to change your oil at least 2x per year (@ 10k miles, per Mobile 1). This means that your annual cost of maintenance to run Mobile 1 is at least $177.98 per year. As opposed to AMSOIL at $158.46 per year.
There are lots of other factors that need to be taken into account starting with the overal comparison of Mobile 1 Full Synthetic versus AMSOIL Signature as this is not a direct comparison. As both Mobile and AMSOIL have a complete lineup of synthetic oils based on customer need. Furthermore, an oil analysis of both oils at 10k miles, which is the limitation of the Mobile 1 product used in your video. Additionally you did not mention if you replaced the filter during your oil change and if so what filter did you use? Then there are factors regarding time. How much do you value your time. Do you like changing your oil. If you are going to change your oil more frequently do you need to use an oil rated to 20k or 10k miles?
Mobil one also has a 20k mile oil. I would NEVER run my oil that long…just my opinion. Both have fine print to cover themselves. Both are good at marketing.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 but thats not what you compared! You compared a 10k oil to a 20k oil and eluded that they were the same.
My point is if you want an OE oil, which provides oil change intervals that follow the manufacturer guidelines typically 5-k-7k miles than that would make more sense.
Amsoil is the best,but price matters,both oils are top notch,I use Amsoil 0w-16 hybrid formula,8.99 qt, in my hybrids.5k service.
I can typically find Mobil one on sale for around $27 for a 5 qt jug
@@whatyaknowjoe67 Mobil 1 makes Toyotas oil,a good oil too.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 which Mobil One though? There are several different ones you know? As well as there are several different tiers of AMSOIL, with Signature Series being top of the line, then Extended-Life, then the High Milage, and the OE being the lowest price gasoline engine 100% Synthetic. Also the $15 for SS is for a single quart online, full cases are less, as well as gallons. Preferred Customer prices are even better.
@@oneninerniner3427 their own recipe it seems th-cam.com/video/IRwvfvwWbYE/w-d-xo.html
I use Kirkland synthetic from Costco. I’m no genius for sure but any actual mechanic I talk to that does engine tear downs all day the same thing. Clean oil is the best oil, regardless of brand. It’s worked for me all of these in vehicles well over 250k.
Yep…keep it clean
I’ll take Amsoil every day.
Not seeing the need in my situation
@@whatyaknowjoe67the price ain’t that much of a difference
@@oliverramclam6009it’s almost double for zero benefit for me??
Paying extra for??? Exactly nothing. There has Never been a conclusive test proving less wear on engine components using Amsoil!! When you understand the purpose of oil on internal engine components then you will understand why Amsoil has no added benefits.
Amsoil marketing is a little strange, but I don’t care the product speaks for itself!! Been a mechanic for over 40 years and I think it’s the best oil on the planet!!
Why do you feel that it is the best?
@@whatyaknowjoe67 it holds up to the heat better than any other oil. In my opinion I especially use it on turbo cars that produce a lot of heat doesn’t have the coking problems that other oils have. The base oil is a higher quality also. I have a twin turbo BMW the motor just run smoother with Amsoil. Especially at the higher heat levels.
break an engine down that has used Amsoil for its life... spotless. You cannot say this for all oils. I will stick to my Amsoil.
Good video though
Not trying to convince anyone one way or the other. Thanks for the compliment!
The reason Amsoil is more expensive and in my opinion better….at least in my 6.7 high output Powerstroke diesel is because Amsoil is the ONLY oil that is 100 percent synthetic. Mobil one is NOT, by law if a an oil has only 25 percent synthetic oil in it then it can be called “full synthetic “ but if you note only Amsoil is the one that says “100 percent synthetic “. The conventional oil in your Mobil one leads to more deposits and has a much lower vapor point than Amsoil and remember this……your turbo gets hot and cooks that oil and it sticks to the turbo bearings and journals. It’s not just about the engine anymore but also the turbo.
Ill have to come up with some “cook off” type tests
@@whatyaknowjoe67 They were already done in a way with a hot plate and Pyrex container with all types of oil. My attention was focused on the Amsoil diesel 10w30 diesel signature series vs other diesel oils because I own a diesel. I don’t know if diesel oil is different from gas engine oil but Amsoil won. It really comes down to engine deposits, burn off and fuel dilution for a diesel, but also turbo gassers do not need oil deposits on those bearings and they get HOT because they are spinning hundreds of thousands times a minute ! Yea it was a shocker for me when I found that out. YIKES !
😂 you dont actually know , all your doing is regurgitating bull crap you heard from your uncles sisters cousin they got knocked up
@@justinlee2642 well that is a well educated comment
Is it expensive? $12 a quart? Penzoil Platnum is $13 here at Orilley. Amsoil is just over $9/QT for the diesel when you are a preferred customer.
Great video thank you
Thanks for watching! I try to be informative
When testing this should make sure your using the same fuel brand and octane. Different fuels Different additives Different results
Same fuel type used
as a chinese fans i get help from your videos,thanks we can buy amsoil 66¥ 3.95L
You’re welcome
~45 cents. How does one get it that inexpensive.
Amsoil Synthetic Series. A TRUE P.A
O. oil!
For my driving style Mobil one works just fine
I'm sure Amsoil will perform slightly better without watching the video... my argument for Mobil 1 advanced is that I can regularly buy a box of 6qts at Costco for $34. Mobil1 isn't the best but its a great value when purchased at Costco on sale.
Might want to watch the video
@@whatyaknowjoe67 Haha I did. Thanks for the video, I was surprised at how close they were. It blows my mind when people swear by these high dollar synthetics and go spend nearly $100 on the oil alone. I've done 5k oil change intervals on my 2021 3.5 ecoboost f150 and it runs great. I'm about to hit 75k miles and i'll be changing the oil myself this weekend with Mobil1 Advanced.
Only the Amsoil Signature Series is 100% synthetic. The rest of the Amsoil motor oils are Class 3 oil. Nothing wrong with the class 3 oils. Mobil 1, Quaker State, and Castrol are Class 3 and they say they'll go 20,000 miles.
The PAO in Amsoil Signature is best especially in the very northern states and up into Canada because it flows faster. If your in the mid states to the south class 3 oils will be more than good enough to start up easily in the cold. If you're in Missouri to Virginia on South cold flow isn't as important because it's not that cold no matter what people may think living there.
Mobil 1 is the best of the class 3 oils for cold weather start ups going down to -30F in my area. I use Mobil 1 in all the Toyotas and my wife's Lexus. In my 2014 5.3 Silverado I've been using Amsoil Signature 0W-20. Deactivate the V4 thing with the plug in deal so it's V8 all the time .
What’s the plug in deal
@@whatyaknowjoe67it's under the dash area in my truck. I plug it in and it's stays in V8 all the time. No V-4 to V-8 stuff for me. Had it's plugin for many years.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 AFM/DFM deactivator plugs into the diagnostic port.
Range technologies makes them they are quite popular
Dyno and seat of the pants test show AMSOIL is majorly superior. Gale Banks said Mobil 1 left cracks all over his parts where amsoil had none. But w/ Mobile or Valvoline racing they are not as smooth in my Ford 390.
What year 390...had one in my 76 F150. Super strong motor!
OE mobile 1 vs signature series u gotta be kidding me.. you should have used OE amsoil
Not sure what you are trying to say? The Signature is better correct?
@@whatyaknowjoe67if you compare mobile one to signature series you should compare it to mobile extended performance or there higher end mobile not the lowest one..
I change mine 3K miles with Mobil 1. I don't have any issues. I just wait for walmart to put them on sale, Grab one box and life is good. It not the quality, it's how frequent you do it.
I usually buy on Amazon for a good price
The quality allegedly affects the interval that is safe. But so does your driving style and probably environment. That interval affects the cost per mile as much as the cost per quart does. If the "guaranteed" safe interval could be a known legit number, Amsoil would probably be the least cost per mile. Not counting the time spent changing it. I just don't know how to validate it or who has if it has been.
Nope. It is the quality. Certainly driving style effects any lubricant.
But, put some strain on em! AMSOIL will come out on top. I know it will, I've tested it, hard! Many times.
@@uncrunch398 I normally drove my truck like 80 miles a day. Mostly 90% highway and 10% secondary road. I found more smooth with the 3K oil and filter change. I use 0w20 Mobil 1 Advance. I found this baxter performance upgrade to switch from canister oil filter to an oil spin type for easy and fast change oil. Works well for my Taco.
fir 3000 miles oci
you can use honey 🍯 nut cheerios in the engine and you'll be fine 🙂
i use Mazola in my 1979 Yugo, 1.2 mil miles!!!! all original!
Ride in a yoga once. And only once
I have a dodge ram 3500 takes 3 gallons cost difference is an issue
Yes
Got a cab ride from a guy at Vancouver BC airport last month and he'd just turned over 1 million km on the original motor in a 6 year old Toyota Prius. Guy sliced through traffic like Earnhardt at Talladega he had two throttle positions 100% or zero. He claimed it was just using cheapest stuff Canadian Tire had on sale but keeping up the maintenance. Some folks can get too anal about stuff like motor oil.
Just change it
Amsoil success is paying people who will speak highly of it. 15 dollars for a quart of oil and they're not even Dexos certified? No thanks.
@@geshtal2056 Because they won’t pay for a certification they are bad ? They also won’t pay Ford or GM “like Mobil does” to be on their list. Amsoil doesn’t need to do that. They are the best and they know it and people that really know engines know it. When you are at the top you don’t need to look down. They are the ONLY oil that is 100 percent synthetic. You get what you pay for.
Wonder why they are not dexos certified. I heard it does cost money to get the certification
@@geshtal2056 Ummm check their diesel oils and you won’t find that at any levels different then the “certified “. Do you have my idea how much it costs to get “certified “ by an auto manufacturer and listed as an “approved oil” by them ? Also the oil IS approved to be used in automotive applications and covered by the Magnuson-Moss act in which a auto manufacturer cannot deny any liability or claim due to the customer performing their own service using any accepted and approved engine oil or other fluids ie generic brake fluid of the correct dot rating in their vehicle. So it is approved to be used in vehicles. It cost Mobil millions of dollars a year to remain on GM’s preferred list. Amsoil is just not going to pay that because they don’t have to, so why not ? Because they know what they have and they won’t release all the proprietary ingredients and amounts thereof or the manufacturing process that it takes to produce it. Would you pay all that money and just give all your information to a giant company just to get their stamp of approval ? I wouldn’t. If you look at the list of “approved” oils you won’t find any truly high performance oil companies on it, and the Mobile 1 you buy at the store is not the same Mobile 1 sold to customers in high performance applications. Look, I know it’s expensive but it is worth it if you keep your vehicle over 10 years like I do. I did tons of research before I chose an oil, I looked at Amsoil, Schaffers, Hotshot, Mobil, Rotella and more. I called the companies asked questions that pertained to my driving style and needs…that is why I am not running a PAO type oil in my diesel. I know diesel oil wars can be volatile among people that are brand loyal but brand loyalty won’t help your engine. But again I am talking about me and my 6.7 high output diesel. I ran Penzoil platinum ultra in my wife’s jeep (🤮 I hate jeeps) for 9 years and it preformed well. I only change a brand of oil once at the first 5k miles and stick with it thru the life of my ownership because I feel that the different additives and detergent packages in them may not be really compatible with each other and wear on seals and gaskets over time given their combination. Yes I am very OCD about my vehicles but it has worked out for me.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 It does.
@@armedprophet3321Plus when you are a preferred customer, which as of now, is ONLY $20/year, you get price discounts on everything. At some point people will only make excuses to not spend $2-3 more/quart, but are willing to take a chance on having to shell out $1000s of dollars in repairs in the future for their cars because they didn't want to do the best they could on maintenance. Amsoil now even offers synthetic blend oils for those who want to spend less money on oil and want the best quality out there. No excuses anymore.
Great comparison. My research I found out Amsoil was not the first company to sell Synthetic oil. Fact is all the oil company's sold it. You will find pictures of them online. Fact is the collusion between Car company's and Oil company's in the 1970's was to make a cheaper oil so the engines wore out faster. That is why if you tore down an engine from that time like I had, they were plugged up with all the crude from the cheap oils they sold. They blocked up oil pumps, oil chambers, build up under the valve covers of this thick mess. WHY? no detergents were used in these oils, unlike today's oils do. I had to put my heads and block into a hot engine cleaning machine, it took 24hrs for the wash cycle to clean these items.
The oil company's complied with the scam and tried to sway Amsoil to follow along. Amsoil REFUSED to follow there collusion and kept on selling their Synthetic oils and improving them as the years went by. Air craft industry uses Synthetic oils in their engines still today.
The other fact is Racing cars ALWAYS use Synthetic oils in their engines even way back in the 60's to present day. These name brands hide that fact and still sold Synthetic oils to them. As you may know, these are not cheap engines to race with.
Thanks for the info
Racing engines used lots of paraffinic base oils because they are very good oils. Castor oils also. Most of todays synthetics are not even real synthetics, just a little bit better refined mineral oils.
The group III synthetic oils are highly refined hydrocracked petroleum based lower class synthetic oils. Which is what you will find most common off the self synthetic oils are and they are cheaper to formulate. Sure they are better than conventional oils, but not as good as Group IV & V premium synthetics which are chemically synthesized man made synthetics. Jet engines have always used group V Ester base synthetics because it is the only lubricant that can stand up to the extremes a jet engine endures. But they aren't necessarily the right oils for piston engine ground vehicles either. So usually it's a group IV PAO base for premium synthetic oils & lubricants for piston engines. Racers usually always use high end synthetics for the same reason, they can stand up to the task. Depending somewhat on what fuels they use. But racing oils aren't necessarily the proper formulations for daily drivers either.
Does that make sense?
Let’s go scams oil no thanks I love my Mobil 1 easy to find everywhere cheaper and thanks for the video
Yep…thanks
Amsoil too expensive. Mobil 1 is good value. I prefer valvoline over Mobil 1
Yep
I’d roll with the Mobil 1
Yep!
Americans complaining that 15 bucks a quart is high 😂 In Europe, much worse oils than Amsoil are sold at that price. It's nothing, really.
Not complaining…just like to get the best value for my dollar…what’s wrong with that?? Sometimes the hyped up over-priced items don’t perform any better than the low cost.
Talking about the folks in the comments, didn't hear you complain in the vid.
There's a channel called repairvehicle. The guy opened up a filter used together with Amsoil. You could see the carbon from the engine getting dissolved and trapped in the filter. So that higher cost does pay off. Still, most any oil changed on time will work fine.
👌
Change your oil every 3500 miles and you don't need to pay $11.00 a quart for oil
Agreed
Your interval is as much a factor as price per quantity for cost per mile. See if you can figure the optimal interval for each and see which costs less then. I used to drive a Ford Focus and went way beyond extended interval, but feathered it as much as I could. The lubed parts still looked new nearing 300k miles on IDK what oil the previous owner used, but Pennzoil Platinum when I added some. So, maybe most people are changing it far more often than needed. I think I had put > 50k miles on it before my first visit to a lube shop with it. Driving was a mix of country and city.
Yes but changing oil that often? You could save time, hassle and money by extending that interval by two or maybe even three times that by using a premium oil and still have no detrimental effects. Possibly even less wear and deposits. It's been tried and proven many many times.
Absolutely not a Mobil 1 fan. Pennzoil, Valvoline & Havoline synthetics are worlds better according to my oil reports. As far as Amsoil, sure it’s a great oil but I’d never pay that kind of money for it.
Can you share your reports
Run the cheapest "banana oil" on special .Change it frequently and you'll never need to watch a "best of oils" video on TH-cam ever again. Just take it easy on a cold engine.
Yep…I’m not a fan of extended intervals anyway
After watching soooo many videos on Amsoil, MB 1, Pennzoil, I have to say I'm more confused. I'm old school, every 3K, maybe stuck in the past but I agree with you, just change it regularly 😊.
You guys!!!??? Stuck in the horse n buggy days are we? You gotta get into the 21st Century me thinks...
I'm a firm believer in taking it easy on a cold engine is still relevant however! 👍
Do a 10,000 mile test.
Not interested…not a fan of extended oil changes. Did go to 7500 with Mobil one early in the trucks life and analysis was fine
@@whatyaknowjoe67 you will only do it twice. In the name of science. Lol thanks for the video.
Let’s end this debate? We have to decide? Come on bad video.
I didn’t want the Amsoil fan boys getting upset at me…you draw your own conclusions
What I heard is that amsoil is rebranded mobil one with amsoil adding their own additives.
Lol
That's what I been told too
Ok, So Amsoil doesn't drill for oil and they aren't a refinery per say. It's not a big secret. They buy their base products from the big companies just as many other companies do. But they are very selective about the components and additives they use. They have chemical engineering labs and dyno test cells they use to continually torture test engines and machinery to improve their formulas, many times meeting or exceeding new specs before they even come out.
They don't have a board of directors or stockholders to answer to make maximum profits from the cheapest components to just barely meet a minimum spec. AMSOIL usually far exceeds any minimum specs by using the best available components to formulate the best lubricants possible. That's what I like!
amsoil the best made not sure mobile 1 is even in the top 5-6 of the brands out there
Based on what? Change oil and filter every 5k, no issue with any synthetic. Mobil 1 excellent oil, no wear in hundreds of thousands of miles
@@RickOravec recently seen a hemi dodge with 75k miles cam worn out had used mobile one entire time
@@RickOravec look up oil test on project farm also
Based on what? Marketing?
The aluminum was going up slowly every oil change by the chart, It was more then likely reaching the next level (5) when the Amsoil was used, Since it was last. This and you are a joke to act like this video shows anything but Ignorance. If you would of ran the Mobile 1 after the Amsoil the Mobile 1 would of had 5 for aluminum and the Amsoil 4 The chart shows the Aluminum gong up every oil change, Anything for a TH-cam attention right!
We are talking PPM (that's parts per million) ...the (new) Diagnostix reports shows 3 for aluminum for both oil samples and actually higher iron 7 vs 6 for the Amsoil. All within margin of error. Fact is both oils are performing great at 6K miles. I'm not interested in pushing out the interval. And I'm not ignorant enough to pay almost double the price for the same performance in MY situation. This works for me...no need to get personal.
penzzoil is better than Mobil one
They are all the same
Ridiculous, that’s not a real world test. Click bait
Explain to me what real world is then??
👍🇨🇦
Thanks!
I knew Amsoil wasn't any better than the others....only difference is more TBN so you can go longer on changes only advantage......If your doing 5000-7000 miles oil changes like any normal person there is practically zero difference.....wear metals proved that
Yep
Nope
wear metals are ONLY a PART of the Wholes picture !!!
@@brightsmile8369what else is there??? I don’t care about the additives or formula…which oil prevents wear the best.
Title Says: “Let’s end this debate”
And in the end he says: “you decide” who won. 🤭😆😂🤣
🤨😒🤦🏻♂️
Im trying to be nice to the Amsoil fan boys