I use the ultra in my newer cars. I daily to work a 93 Ford ranger with the 2.3l and I use Valvoline high mileage synthetic blend and it currently has 508,000+ miles and still rocking the original engine transmission and rear end! No leaks, tics taps or raps! 3000- 3500 mile oil changes regularly!
Joe, You do realize that in order to get an accurate representation when comparing oil changes that the oil being used needs to be run through twice. The first batch to clean out the previous oil and the second to be analyzed without being cross-contaminated from the first. I learned this from watching the Motor Oil Geek. He is a Tribologist and has extensive experience with motor oils. Just offered for your information. Thanks for sharing this.
I thought of that afterwards as well…I did let it drain for a good 30 min between oil changes. Next time I will flush. With that said…I did alternate which oil brand I tested first…so for example I maybe did Pennzoil first in the F150, and Valvoline in the Trax.
This will not affect the results in any significant way. Motor oil geek is a talking head for the oil companies. All he does is regurgitate marketing material while claiming he is all about the science. The guy is a fraud TBH as nothing he has ever said or done was revolutionary in any way. All that information a has been available for decades. He has never once ran this oil through a test and yet he advertises it, he is getting paid to sell oil. Thats his job.
Came looking for this comment, it's an unfortunately expensive "requirement" to get a real test result :( The good news is that you only have to run the 'flush' fill for a very short time, it's just the cost of the 'extra' oil change makes it annoying.
That’s a good combo. I got a couple used cars this last year and will probably use Restore & Protect for a few oil changes to clean anything out then switch to PUP.
I used to change my 2.0 GDI EcoBoost every 5,000 to 6,000 miles with full synthetic. In the last couple years learning more about how much fuel dilution a GDI turbo can have especially doing as much stop and go driving I do, I now change it every 3,000 to 3,600 miles (3,000 being the goal but life and all gets in the way). I’ve been using Valvoline High Mileage full synthetic Garage Box from Walmart. Pretty good value for 12 quarts. My Escape takes almost 6 quarts with filter anyway.
Smart! Love my 3.5 eco boost but you have to be real careful with maintenance especially if you do around town driving and or towing etc. oil is cheap compared to a new engine or even major engine repairs
I’ve seen that oil…curious as to how well it performs and how much it costs. With that said…in my opinion there are a lot of marketing ploys out there…I feel any brand will perform well…buy what’s on sale and change frequently
On my second oil change with the restore and protect. It's kinda expensive around here. Especially when you pair it with a wix xp filter. I typically run 3500 miles oci on my 19 civic coupe ex-t. So I tend to just use what's on sale, typically Kirkland. The 1.5t gdi engine is known for oil dilution issues. So I've been changing the oil sooner than later. This time though I'm going 5,000 miles.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 $6 per quart if you buy it in jugs thru Valvoline direct, and a few other vendors like Amazon. This is a proven high detergent oil to keep your rings free per a tribologist, and better than what any Penn can do. I am switching to R&P from PUP for ALL of my vehicles new and old.
Hey I’m just a random viewer. I saw your address and I’d like to share my concern that having your address exposed like that on TH-cam can be risky. Also I like how passionate you are about your car maintenance. As a mechanic and a car enthusiast, I always say that strong preventative maintenance is the key to longevity of a vehicle.
Excellent video. Based on this I can totally see that the brand doesn't really matter that much. The proper oil and the prompt OCI is all you need to protect your engine for many years. 1 PPM vs 3PPM is in the realm of data aqisition error.
In theory, the lower calcium detergent will have less competition against zddp and anti-friction additives; therefore provide better wear protection and also reduce friction coefficient. I will go for the lowest calcium detergent oil for better wear protection and lower friction.
Calcium additives are the best in preventing rust from water condensation. This is why you see only calcium and no magnesium in ACEA rated long drain oils. Calcium is the best protection for your motor unless you have a turbo engine prone to LSPI.
Lesser quality base oils with lesser quality viscosity index improvers need more anti-wear additives. So, op is correct in that regard. The calcium can get in the way of anti-wear like ZDDP. But calcium does an excellent job of inhibiting acids. That's why some prefer different types of European synthetics. Higher calcium (longer oil change intervals) and better, more robust base oils and VII's that more resist shearing and burn. They typically have a much better NOACK volatility rating. There are always tradeoffs. Always compromises. Such as the calcium potentially causing LSPI. It's all a careful balance of chemistry for one's application and affordability. The companies want profit, so that's why we all can't run the ultimate engine oil. I find it interesting, even if I'll never understand the chemistry fully. How they know atomic structures and ion transfer whatever will always escape my simple mind 😅.
I would think the Valvoline advanced should go against Pennzoil platinum & the Valvoline extended protection should battle it out with the Ultra platinum.
Valvoline loses the viscosity big time. After seeing quite a few reports I did not see a single good report where the Valvoline oil did not shear down. I am using a Valvoline oil right now but in a 5W-30 grade which normally goes to 8.5 cSt in no time. Very similar to your Pennzoil 0W-20 with 8.2 cSt which is great for a 0W-20 oil. First and last purchase of Valvoline.
Yea I just used valvoline extended protection and did two autox and 1 track day. Burned damn near 1 quart in my honda. Probably going to try something else. I didn’t like PUP cause it made my engine noisy.
For all those with the shearing thin problem, my solution is to, say...if a vehicle were to take a 5W-20, adding one quart of 10W-30 with your oil change may help; of the same brand and type to more closely match the chemistry. A 5W-20 and 10W-30 oil typically have more robust base oil. Less VII's. 'Viscosity index improvers' are basically polymers that shear thin more easily. The closer the lower winter number is to the summer (higher number), the less VII's there TYPICALLY should be. That's why HPL has capitalized by creating a 10W-20. For super tech synthetic users, it's a shame they won't make a straight 20 and 30 grade SYNTHETIC with their 10-20,000 mile detergent/anti-wear additive package for those who want a robustness booster in warm climate or season. Sell em' in individual quarts like their conventional straight 30 grade.
I've found that no matter how much valvoline is talked up or hyped up I've never been happy with it, motor always sounded worse at every oil change for the first couple weeks then back quiet again, but when switching to Castrol and Pennzoil motors always sounds quite before and after oil change, Valvoline in my opinion is on the thinner side and no tests from any u tuber can change my opinion nor experience, I've used several oils and Valvoline is never to be used in my motors, it's even more difficult to read on the dipstick, nice video
I’d love to see you go on bibistheoilguy and report your findings. Engine oils aren’t judged by noise there slick. And if you don’t like TH-camrs reporting what works then stop your bitching and don’t watch it. Nobody cares! I can tell you don’t know a thing about tribology but we get your unsolicited “opinion” and an uneducated one at that.
I've been a Castrol person since back in the 80s when I got my first car... a '78 Honda Accord hatchback, 5 spd. Back then I despised Pennzoil but I have fairly recently become a big fan of Pennzoil based on current researching (reading and watching YT videos) and use that in my "new to me" 2016 Ram 1500 5.7 hemi...
Those are all within a margin of error, basically the same. Can’t go wrong with either oil choice. I can never find the Penzoil Ultra anywhere so I always get Valvoline.
You could go wrong. Run that valvoline in a sludged up engine and you will have new problems real fast. Most of the sludge is not harming anything but loosen it and it will.
Honestly even though its proper to run the same oil through the engine twice to flush the remaining additives from the previous oils, those wear metals are basically identical and below 5ppm per 1000 miles so both oils are doing a great job and suit your application perfectly. No need to use any other oil really for these cars and just get which ever is cheaper at the time like you said in the comments.
Love your 2A banner…and Church of Christ T-shirt! Found your video through Engine Oil and Lubrication Facebook page. Nice shop also. I think they’re all very good oils. I maintain 2 vehicles currently - a 2007 Tacoma V6 with 295,000 miles, and my wife just got a new 2024 Odyssey. The Taco’s always had some flavor of Mobil 1 since I bought it new. I’ve done every oil change, and I’ve sent a few samples to Blackstone. Currently it’s using 0W-40. The Odyssey is using M1 ESP 0W-30. I like the 3.5 HTHS in the hot summer months, and the lower amount of additive will help prevent intake tract deposits since it’s GDI. And I do 5000 mile OCIs on it anyway, so it doesn’t need a long TBN. Just a note - I don’t use Blackstone anymore because they don’t have the capability to measure fuel content accurately. They just guess based on flashpoint. Suggest OAI (oil analyzers international) or Speed Diagnostix.
I have used Amsoil for 15 years and just switched to Valvoline R&P offers better fuel economy sound acceleration the color of the oil is like new and half the cost of Amsoil and my truck runs better
Good tests. All the best oils are very close. Personally, I buy the Havoline ProDS in the box from Walmart about $25 for 6 quarts, and change every 3,500. Lots of short trips.
I have a 2017 Nissan Rogue, after trying Mobil1, Valvoline, Supertech engine got loud and with Castrol & PENNZOIL & Qaker State engine got quieter...but performed best with PENNZOIL in winter and Castrol in Summer months but overall PENNZOIL it the best oil, period!
@@illiniwood Same here, bought a new CR-V and want to run the ultra in it. Advanced Auto was the only one that had it. (Houston, Tx. area) I bought an extra jug to give me some breathing room.
Great video. The Oil Geek Guy on TH-cam states to get a more accurate comparison is to double flush. Meaning change to the oil of choice, run for a short time and drain. Expensive and time consuming but thought I would mention. Very excited to see Amsoil vs P. Ultra. Also, maybe gas mileage can be part of the review? Not necessary significant but interesting.
They just released Valvoline Restore and Protect which could be up there with Amsoil Signature Series, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, K&N Premium and Liquid Moly Molygen.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 Absolutely agree! I might have tried the MO “Extended” as it’s both a Group 3 and 4 base oil. Thus why it has double the guaranteed protection of “ Advanced” which is pure Group 3. By the way, I too have the 2.7 in my Fusion Sport and so far all good.
My go to brands i only use. I switched out between intervals, Pennzoil UP and Valvoline HM Max Life. My 2014 F150 EB runs so much smoother and quieter than the Motorcraft did. Also gets better fuel economy.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 I had that "famous" Ford knocking in my engine(which i really didn't know about until it was mentioned on different channels) with Motorcraft oil, but after putting in the Ultra Platinum...that went away relatively soon after. Quite a few different things happened after switching over to Pennzoil and Valvoline.
My civic is barely reaching 50k Only used oil from the dealer Ultra platinum twice and Castrol edge on my last oil change. Not sure if restore and protect is necessary on it just yet. Thought about trying valvoline or if I should just go back to ultra platinum. Edge seems good so far close to 1,000 miles on it
@@whatyaknowjoe67 what would you say about Napa oil? It says developed by valvoline. Is it just made by valvoline but Napa has their own additive? Hard to imagine valvoline having the exact same oil sold by a different name for a similar if not more expensive price compared to valvoline prices at a Walmart
Nice to see a real world thing, all very nice and all with the lab results (like that oil guy channel), but WHAT IS THE BOTTOM LINE?!??!?! I use Ultra Platinum ( 0W-40) for my Challenger Scat Pack.
lol….trying not to be partial in my videos…but based off margin of error, all are good oils and as long as you change every 5k miles probably any oil on the market will suffice
Should have used Valvoline Extended Protection or Valvoline High Mileage Extended Protection as they are the flagship and Pennzoil Uktra Platinum is Shells flagship. The Valvoline Advanced(even though really really good oil with a big add pack by ilsac standards) should pitted against regular Pennzoil Platinum.
A high mileage oil should not be used, unless one is testing the high mileage formulation from other brands also. But in general, high mileage oils should not be used at all unless there is some oil usage in-between oil changes. High mileage oil contains additives that swell the seals to stop or reduce oil leaks, and if you use it, and then later stop using it, your seals may shrink causing oil leaks. If it is not broken, don't fix it.
I think I'm gonna stick with Mobil 1. It's "low" additive pack is deceiving, as not only does it utilize a tri-nuclear molybdenum, but the stuff I'm using has a 'high tech' alkalated naphthalene that holds contaminants in suspension along with not getting in the way of ingredients in the add pack like esters can. I have their 0W-20 EP in my Mazda based N/A GDI 2.0 duratec Ford EcoSport engine. In the spring, I'm considering their 5W-20 Truck and SUV formula. It has the best shear stability and NOACK strength out of any of the mainstream oils out there for the application. About as good as their 0W-30 ESP I use in a 2019 Volkswagen Golf R Wolfsburg edition. No one beats its cold flow either. Excellent for MI winter, here.
You have those wear metals in your samples probably from using regular gas in your GDI’s without enough cleaner, especially with a turbo you should use premium
This is very informative, I appreciate the video! However you're comparing pennzoil Ultra Platinum which is their best offering vs valvoline advanced synthetic which is their "mid level" offering. A more fair comparison I feel would have been to use valvolines highest offering which is their best "extended protection" or even "restore and protect" both of those are more in line with PUP as far as what they market and would likely yield even Closer results. This particular valvoline oil is inline with the regular Pennzoil Platinum. Just my two cents!
You need to start changing the oil at the 3k mile mark if you want the engine to last past the 100k mark. Those extended miles are for people that drive less than 10k mi per year, don't drive in congested traffic or stop and go traffic, don't have a lot of shorter trips throughout their commute and don't live/drive in dusty or dirty conditions.
Try running a complete fuel system treatment containing polyester amine (PEA) to address your fuel dilution. Carbon buildup on your injectors is a leading cause of fuel dilution. Your wear metals do not indicate a worn out engine.
You got another subscriber and liker 👋 I am running Ultra on my 2024 Wrangler 3.6. I wonder why you are not using 0W-20. Is your Pentastar older than 2016?
It does require 0W-20…for some reason I have mistakenly picked up the 5W a few times…So I’ve been running the 5W in summer and 0W in winter. Not sure I’m a fan of the 0W-20. I believe this is strictly a fuel mileage improvement reason. Multiple oil samples on this vehicle and it is performing very well. Thank you for subscribing!!
I tried PUP on my 13 Accord 2.4l 6MT thats tuned. Engine seemed to be noisier. I tried Castrol Edge in the past but car didn’t start as smooth. I’ve been using Valvoline Extended Protrction recently and cold starts have been smooth and quick. However, I just did 2 autox events and 1 track day. 4,100 miles later, I changed the oil and burned a full quart or maybe quart and half of oi. I pour the full 5 quarts in and car calls for 4.4qt. Only around 3.5qts came out. I’m looking at different oils that have lower NOACK so it doesnt burn as much. Possibly may try LiquiMoly Molygen.
Hard to locate it here in my area as well. Be careful with the Valvoline clean and restore…I heard Iir can do too good of a job and plug up your oil filter. I would recommend changing early a couple times.
I've tore down a few engines over the years and it wasn't the oil analysis that was the issue it was sludge build up inside the engine. Pennzoil left so much sludge you could scoop in out with a tablespoon. I didn't see that with engines run on Valvoline which I've used for years in everything except my airplanes.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 It was from 1975 to the 80s that I was doing automotive engines and then in 87 I switched to aircraft after getting my Airframe & Powerplant license which I still do. But about 4 years ago I started doing cars again, mostly diagnostics. I've heard that Pennsoil cleaned up their sludge problem but I haven't tore down enough car engines to confirm or deny that yet. Ha! Yeah I'm old but I never learned to play golf and I still enjoy diagnosing and fixing stuff after 49 years of doing it.
Sometimes things that were true once are no longer true, and with engine oil with all of the changes and R&D this couldn't be more true. Pennzoil was bought out by Shell, Shell had / has a reputation for it's cleaning abilities and no known sludge issues (either at all, or that is reported recently), How old is your experience with sludging? Is it recent like a maximum of 5 years ago? or was it 10 years ago? or was it from the late 70's early 80's?
Strange….where I’m from it was rumored to be just the opposite. Locals swore they wouldn’t put valvoline in a lawnmower! I think it’s all hogwash. Most of the sludge comes from driving short distances without a proper warm up….no matter what oil you use. But, you can’t reason with unreasonable people. I wouldn’t be surprised that there’s people who’d change it once a week.
As far as i cant tell ive watched countless videos on valvoline protect and restore and im going to try it next oil change as besides the videos the reviews are 5 star's
Im on my second oil change with valvoline restore and protect. Always been a fan on valvoline. Id like to try the pennzoil ultra platnium but nobody carries it in stock. I like to use what is available off the shelf. Im not even sure if the Valvoline restore and protect will do much on my car. Its a 2019 civic coupe ex-t, and ive done 3500 oil changes since new. Im currently about 200 miles away from hitting 70,000 miles. Ive noticed that the restore and protect smells awful out of the bottle 😂. Must be all the detergent? Ive tried castrol and for whatever reason my engine doesnt seem to like it. I spend a lot of time in my car, and can feel when the engine just seems off. It also likes the Kirkland full synthetic, which is great since its $30 for 10 grts. This time around im going to do 5,000 miles to really let the valvoline work.
One or two parts per million is within the margin of error of the test itself and the sample size. So it cannot be said that there is ANY difference between those results, because of the error inherent in the test equipment, and the small sample size (only sending in one sample), and also the difference in driving conditions and mileage on the car.
I use the Platinum not ultra platinum in 1989 Dodge D150 with the 318 engine. I bought this second hand, the previous owner always used regular not synthetic Pennzoil oil. Now it has 318659 km and so far so good, uses very little oil. I use the Valvoline synthetic in my 2009 Ford Focus, again, so far so good. Quite happy with the results of both oils. I enjoy watching your videos, thanks for the information.
Dont use platinum in cold winter climates. It has the cold flow properties of honey. Check the project farm cold flow test if you don't believe me. Run ultra platinum in the winter.
Using regular Platinum versus Ultra Platinum makes no sense with the minute cost difference. The PUP is way superior. You guys whining about a four-dollar difference cost and using the best filters makes me laugh. Engines are expensive and the have the best oils being in Valvoline or Pennzoil, it makes no sense to step over dollars to pick up dimes.
Off topic but on my g35 when I did my oil change I did Mobil 1 extended protection high mileage, and man I don’t think it liked it as it the engine was loud but so I switched to Valvoline next and it was quieter and they are amazing also. But switching to Penzoil rn it’s more quiet then both oils or maybe it’s just me. I simply now like it a lot more because it’s cheaper then both and essentially on the same level if not better. But amazing video! But I don’t think it matters as long as you keep the oil fresh it don’t matter
@@RFJersey Untrue - AMSOIL synthetic motor oils meet or exceed the latest industry standards, including GM dexos1 Gen 2 and Gen 3, API SP, and ILSAC GF-6. AMSOIL offers a Limited Warranty that covers the cost to repair or replace damaged components for as long as the product is used. The warranty also doesn't restrict coverage based on vehicle miles. For example, AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil is guaranteed for 25,000 miles, 700 hours of operation, or one year, whichever comes first, in normal service. In severe service, it's guaranteed for 15,000 miles.
@@Bowhunters6go8xz6x For double the price of my regular oil (when my regular oil is at full retail) or triple the price when my regular oil is on special.... With my regular oil being a top tier oil from a reputable brand, NOT some cheap nasty oil from a questionable brand, For that additional cost, on a depreciating asset, that even if it stops ALL engine wear won't stop everything else from breaking (which will eventually lead me to replace the vehicle)...... no thanks :-)
Both of these oils look VERY good. I have used both and just buy whatever is on sale at the time. But these two oils are my favorites.
The Valvoline tends to be a little more economical
You have a lift in your garage?! You're my hero.
Yep…not really that expensive…after least pre covid days.
Any Valvoline product or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum are my go too oils .... best on the shelf
I think they all are good
I use the ultra in my newer cars. I daily to work a 93 Ford ranger with the 2.3l and I use Valvoline high mileage synthetic blend and it currently has 508,000+ miles and still rocking the original engine transmission and rear end! No leaks, tics taps or raps! 3000- 3500 mile oil changes regularly!
Nice! Changing the oil sooner can’t hurt
In Southern West Virginia I see 5 Rangers for every old Tacoma, that’s incredible on your mileage.
Damn Rangers lol
who cares what you use?
@@jaywinters2483 there's always that one douchebag in the comments and today you're it!
Joe, You do realize that in order to get an accurate representation when comparing oil changes that the oil being used needs to be run through twice. The first batch to clean out the previous oil and the second to be analyzed without being cross-contaminated from the first. I learned this from watching the Motor Oil Geek. He is a Tribologist and has extensive experience with motor oils. Just offered for your information. Thanks for sharing this.
I thought of that afterwards as well…I did let it drain for a good 30 min between oil changes. Next time I will flush. With that said…I did alternate which oil brand I tested first…so for example I maybe did Pennzoil first in the F150, and Valvoline in the Trax.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 I would be interested in seeing the results after you've flushed the other used oil brand and then see the values of the analysis.
I came here to say this but still a very thorough real world job.
This will not affect the results in any significant way. Motor oil geek is a talking head for the oil companies. All he does is regurgitate marketing material while claiming he is all about the science. The guy is a fraud TBH as nothing he has ever said or done was revolutionary in any way. All that information a has been available for decades.
He has never once ran this oil through a test and yet he advertises it, he is getting paid to sell oil. Thats his job.
Came looking for this comment, it's an unfortunately expensive "requirement" to get a real test result :(
The good news is that you only have to run the 'flush' fill for a very short time, it's just the cost of the 'extra' oil change makes it annoying.
Great video with REAL results. Im a big fan of both oils, these are my personal top 2 oils. Pup and Valvoline restore and protect
Thank you!
That’s a good combo. I got a couple used cars this last year and will probably use Restore & Protect for a few oil changes to clean anything out then switch to PUP.
I used to change my 2.0 GDI EcoBoost every 5,000 to 6,000 miles with full synthetic. In the last couple years learning more about how much fuel dilution a GDI turbo can have especially doing as much stop and go driving I do, I now change it every 3,000 to 3,600 miles (3,000 being the goal but life and all gets in the way). I’ve been using Valvoline High Mileage full synthetic Garage Box from Walmart. Pretty good value for 12 quarts. My Escape takes almost 6 quarts with filter anyway.
Yeah…we drive too many miles…would be changing oil every other week on one of the vehicles
What year Escape? In my 2017 Edge 2.0 Ecoboost, I change oil at 50% on Oil Life Monitor. Usually works out to 2,500 miles between changes.
Smart! Love my 3.5 eco boost but you have to be real careful with maintenance especially if you do around town driving and or towing etc. oil is cheap compared to a new engine or even major engine repairs
I'm looking forward to trying the new Valvoline Restore & Protect oil.
I’ve seen that oil…curious as to how well it performs and how much it costs. With that said…in my opinion there are a lot of marketing ploys out there…I feel any brand will perform well…buy what’s on sale and change frequently
@@whatyaknowjoe67Restore & Protect is the only oil on the consumer level that cleans. It’s been studied and Valvoline has the proof.
My 2UZfe loves the restore and protect...
On my second oil change with the restore and protect. It's kinda expensive around here. Especially when you pair it with a wix xp filter. I typically run 3500 miles oci on my 19 civic coupe ex-t. So I tend to just use what's on sale, typically Kirkland. The 1.5t gdi engine is known for oil dilution issues. So I've been changing the oil sooner than later. This time though I'm going 5,000 miles.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 $6 per quart if you buy it in jugs thru Valvoline direct, and a few other vendors like Amazon. This is a proven high detergent oil to keep your rings free per a tribologist, and better than what any Penn can do. I am switching to R&P from PUP for ALL of my vehicles new and old.
Hey I’m just a random viewer. I saw your address and I’d like to share my concern that having your address exposed like that on TH-cam can be risky. Also I like how passionate you are about your car maintenance. As a mechanic and a car enthusiast, I always say that strong preventative maintenance is the key to longevity of a vehicle.
Thank you
Excellent video. Based on this I can totally see that the brand doesn't really matter that much. The proper oil and the prompt OCI is all you need to protect your engine for many years. 1 PPM vs 3PPM is in the realm of data aqisition error.
Agree…thanks for the comment.
I like your real-world approach to testing these oils. I've subscribed for more videos.
Awesome! Thank you !
Fantastic video. Appreciate it, love the garage.
Thank you!! Amsoil test coming very soon
In theory, the lower calcium detergent will have less competition against zddp and anti-friction additives; therefore provide better wear protection and also reduce friction coefficient. I will go for the lowest calcium detergent oil for better wear protection and lower friction.
Good info…thanks
Calcium additives are the best in preventing rust from water condensation. This is why you see only calcium and no magnesium in ACEA rated long drain oils. Calcium is the best protection for your motor unless you have a turbo engine prone to LSPI.
Lesser quality base oils with lesser quality viscosity index improvers need more anti-wear additives. So, op is correct in that regard. The calcium can get in the way of anti-wear like ZDDP. But calcium does an excellent job of inhibiting acids. That's why some prefer different types of European synthetics. Higher calcium (longer oil change intervals) and better, more robust base oils and VII's that more resist shearing and burn. They typically have a much better NOACK volatility rating. There are always tradeoffs. Always compromises. Such as the calcium potentially causing LSPI. It's all a careful balance of chemistry for one's application and affordability. The companies want profit, so that's why we all can't run the ultimate engine oil. I find it interesting, even if I'll never understand the chemistry fully. How they know atomic structures and ion transfer whatever will always escape my simple mind 😅.
I would think the Valvoline advanced should go against Pennzoil platinum & the Valvoline extended protection should battle it out with the Ultra platinum.
True
Jesus you have your own lift in your garage 🤯 touché
Yep… my dream. Not really that expensive
its a smart investment when owning a Chrysler vehicle
@@EverydayJ1786😂
Valvoline loses the viscosity big time. After seeing quite a few reports I did not see a single good report where the Valvoline oil did not shear down. I am using a Valvoline oil right now but in a 5W-30 grade which normally goes to 8.5 cSt in no time. Very similar to your Pennzoil 0W-20 with 8.2 cSt which is great for a 0W-20 oil. First and last purchase of Valvoline.
Change them at 5k miles and they are all good oils
My use of valvoline agrees with you. Shears down
Yea I just used valvoline extended protection and did two autox and 1 track day. Burned damn near 1 quart in my honda. Probably going to try something else. I didn’t like PUP cause it made my engine noisy.
For all those with the shearing thin problem, my solution is to, say...if a vehicle were to take a 5W-20, adding one quart of 10W-30 with your oil change may help; of the same brand and type to more closely match the chemistry. A 5W-20 and 10W-30 oil typically have more robust base oil. Less VII's. 'Viscosity index improvers' are basically polymers that shear thin more easily. The closer the lower winter number is to the summer (higher number), the less VII's there TYPICALLY should be. That's why HPL has capitalized by creating a 10W-20. For super tech synthetic users, it's a shame they won't make a straight 20 and 30 grade SYNTHETIC with their 10-20,000 mile detergent/anti-wear additive package for those who want a robustness booster in warm climate or season. Sell em' in individual quarts like their conventional straight 30 grade.
@@Shadows-RC Yea I've thought about doing that
I've found that no matter how much valvoline is talked up or hyped up I've never been happy with it, motor always sounded worse at every oil change for the first couple weeks then back quiet again, but when switching to Castrol and Pennzoil motors always sounds quite before and after oil change, Valvoline in my opinion is on the thinner side and no tests from any u tuber can change my opinion nor experience, I've used several oils and Valvoline is never to be used in my motors, it's even more difficult to read on the dipstick, nice video
Thanks for the information
I’d love to see you go on bibistheoilguy and report your findings. Engine oils aren’t judged by noise there slick. And if you don’t like TH-camrs reporting what works then stop your bitching and don’t watch it. Nobody cares! I can tell you don’t know a thing about tribology but we get your unsolicited “opinion” and an uneducated one at that.
I totally agree. I have Chevy 2.7 and on this truck I've tried the Supertech, Valvoline, and Pennzoil. Noticeably quieter with the Pennzoil.
I agree with you , Penzoil and Amsoil eliminated ticking noise on my GM cars especially with the DoD & AFM
I've been a Castrol person since back in the 80s when I got my first car... a '78 Honda Accord hatchback, 5 spd. Back then I despised Pennzoil but I have fairly recently become a big fan of Pennzoil based on current researching (reading and watching YT videos) and use that in my "new to me" 2016 Ram 1500 5.7 hemi...
Those are all within a margin of error, basically the same. Can’t go wrong with either oil choice. I can never find the Penzoil Ultra anywhere so I always get Valvoline.
Same here…hard to find the Ultra in my area as well.
I get it online. Amazon, Walmart, and Advance Auto sell it. Sometimes, it goes on sale, and I'll stock up. PUP is a good oil.
You could go wrong. Run that valvoline in a sludged up engine and you will have new problems real fast. Most of the sludge is not harming anything but loosen it and it will.
@@caesarflickerman7047😂
I'm wondering about cross contamination of the oil samples.
Honestly even though its proper to run the same oil through the engine twice to flush the remaining additives from the previous oils, those wear metals are basically identical and below 5ppm per 1000 miles so both oils are doing a great job and suit your application perfectly. No need to use any other oil really for these cars and just get which ever is cheaper at the time like you said in the comments.
Yep…agree
Love your 2A banner…and Church of Christ T-shirt!
Found your video through Engine Oil and Lubrication Facebook page.
Nice shop also.
I think they’re all very good oils.
I maintain 2 vehicles currently - a 2007 Tacoma V6 with 295,000 miles, and my wife just got a new 2024 Odyssey.
The Taco’s always had some flavor of Mobil 1 since I bought it new. I’ve done every oil change, and I’ve sent a few samples to Blackstone. Currently it’s using 0W-40.
The Odyssey is using M1 ESP 0W-30. I like the 3.5 HTHS in the hot summer months, and the lower amount of additive will help prevent intake tract deposits since it’s GDI. And I do 5000 mile OCIs on it anyway, so it doesn’t need a long TBN.
Just a note - I don’t use Blackstone anymore because they don’t have the capability to measure fuel content accurately. They just guess based on flashpoint.
Suggest OAI (oil analyzers international) or Speed Diagnostix.
Thank you for the comment…I’m actually doing some report comparisons between Blackstone and speediagnotix. Appreciate the feedback!
I have used Amsoil for 15 years and just switched to Valvoline R&P offers better fuel economy sound acceleration the color of the oil is like new and half the cost of Amsoil and my truck runs better
Test results of Amsoil coming soon
Good tests. All the best oils are very close. Personally, I buy the Havoline ProDS in the box from Walmart about $25 for 6 quarts, and change every 3,500. Lots of short trips.
Good price!
I have a 2017 Nissan Rogue, after trying Mobil1, Valvoline, Supertech engine got loud and with Castrol & PENNZOIL & Qaker State engine got quieter...but performed best with PENNZOIL in winter and Castrol in Summer months but overall PENNZOIL it the best oil, period!
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Thank you. I just purchased full synthetic oil
Joe, thank you.
No problem…I enjoy doing these type of videos…thanks for watching
Good info, have used both. I find Pennzoil interesting as apparently made using natural gas.
Yes…interesting
For some reason I have a hard time finding the utra platinum so I only run platinum or the valvoline advance
Same here…I had to order off of Amazon for this test.
Advance Auto parts is the only place I've been able to find it where I'm at.
Do not run platinum in cold weather climates. It has the worst cold flow test I have seen in a modern oil.
Watch project farm cold flow test.
@@illiniwood Same here, bought a new CR-V and want to run the ultra in it. Advanced Auto was the only one that had it. (Houston, Tx. area) I bought an extra jug to give me some breathing room.
Great video. The Oil Geek Guy on TH-cam states to get a more accurate comparison is to double flush. Meaning change to the oil of choice, run for a short time and drain. Expensive and time consuming but thought I would mention. Very excited to see Amsoil vs P. Ultra. Also, maybe gas mileage can be part of the review? Not necessary significant but interesting.
Wasn’t paying real close attention to fuel mileage but didn’t notice any real difference. Thanks for the compliment!
They just released Valvoline Restore and Protect which could be up there with Amsoil Signature Series, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, K&N Premium and Liquid Moly Molygen.
Saw that…sounds like good stuff
Excellent results, thanks a lot.
Thanks for watching
Valvoline used to be my go to but in my new truck gm 2.7. I swear it runs quieter on rhe Pennzoil Platinum.
I didn’t notice a difference
Fact's Pennzoil platinum runs smoother and quieter in my 2005 Ford expedition way better than Valvoline.
You have two-oil contamination right there, old buddy!
Agreed. But very minimal. I let it drain for 30 min
It seems on your 2.7 F150 the Mobil 1 did best considering the use of the vehicle. But in reality all are just fine to use without hesitation.
I have to agree…all are good oiils. I’m curious to see how the high priced amsoil compares. Results coming soon.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 Absolutely agree! I might have tried the MO “Extended” as it’s both a Group 3 and 4 base oil. Thus why it has double the guaranteed protection of “ Advanced” which is pure Group 3. By the way, I too have the 2.7 in my Fusion Sport and so far all good.
My go to brands i only use. I switched out between intervals, Pennzoil UP and Valvoline HM Max Life. My 2014 F150 EB runs so much smoother and quieter than the Motorcraft did. Also gets better fuel economy.
The motor craft oil is decent…but it is just a semi-synthetic
@@whatyaknowjoe67 I had that "famous" Ford knocking in my engine(which i really didn't know about until it was mentioned on different channels) with Motorcraft oil, but after putting in the Ultra Platinum...that went away relatively soon after. Quite a few different things happened after switching over to Pennzoil and Valvoline.
My civic is barely reaching 50k
Only used oil from the dealer
Ultra platinum twice and Castrol edge on my last oil change.
Not sure if restore and protect is necessary on it just yet.
Thought about trying valvoline or if I should just go back to ultra platinum. Edge seems good so far close to 1,000 miles on it
I haven’t tested the restore yet…so hard to say at this point
@@whatyaknowjoe67 what would you say about Napa oil? It says developed by valvoline. Is it just made by valvoline but Napa has their own additive? Hard to imagine valvoline having the exact same oil sold by a different name for a similar if not more expensive price compared to valvoline prices at a Walmart
old boy has a bend-pak in his garage, talk about goals. 😮
It’s nice
Nice to see a real world thing, all very nice and all with the lab results (like that oil guy channel), but WHAT IS THE BOTTOM LINE?!??!?! I use Ultra Platinum ( 0W-40) for my Challenger Scat Pack.
lol….trying not to be partial in my videos…but based off margin of error, all are good oils and as long as you change every 5k miles probably any oil on the market will suffice
Should have used Valvoline Extended Protection or Valvoline High Mileage Extended Protection as they are the flagship and Pennzoil Uktra Platinum is Shells flagship. The Valvoline Advanced(even though really really good oil with a big add pack by ilsac standards) should pitted against regular Pennzoil Platinum.
I agree.
A high mileage oil should not be used, unless one is testing the high mileage formulation from other brands also. But in general, high mileage oils should not be used at all unless there is some oil usage in-between oil changes. High mileage oil contains additives that swell the seals to stop or reduce oil leaks, and if you use it, and then later stop using it, your seals may shrink causing oil leaks. If it is not broken, don't fix it.
I think I'm gonna stick with Mobil 1. It's "low" additive pack is deceiving, as not only does it utilize a tri-nuclear molybdenum, but the stuff I'm using has a 'high tech' alkalated naphthalene that holds contaminants in suspension along with not getting in the way of ingredients in the add pack like esters can. I have their 0W-20 EP in my Mazda based N/A GDI 2.0 duratec Ford EcoSport engine. In the spring, I'm considering their 5W-20 Truck and SUV formula. It has the best shear stability and NOACK strength out of any of the mainstream oils out there for the application. About as good as their 0W-30 ESP I use in a 2019 Volkswagen Golf R Wolfsburg edition. No one beats its cold flow either. Excellent for MI winter, here.
Further testing that I did proves Mobil one is pretty good. Checkout my video on how it compared to amsoil
1 or 2 ppm could be sampling error no difference.
Yep
You have those wear metals in your samples probably from using regular gas in your GDI’s without enough cleaner, especially with a turbo you should use premium
You will always have wear material regardless. Object of test was to compare oil brands. The Jeep is non-turbo
This is very informative, I appreciate the video! However you're comparing pennzoil Ultra Platinum which is their best offering vs valvoline advanced synthetic which is their "mid level" offering. A more fair comparison I feel would have been to use valvolines highest offering which is their best "extended protection" or even "restore and protect" both of those are more in line with PUP as far as what they market and would likely yield even Closer results. This particular valvoline oil is inline with the regular Pennzoil Platinum. Just my two cents!
You’re correct.
You need to start changing the oil at the 3k mile mark if you want the engine to last past the 100k mark. Those extended miles are for people that drive less than 10k mi per year, don't drive in congested traffic or stop and go traffic, don't have a lot of shorter trips throughout their commute and don't live/drive in dusty or dirty conditions.
Engine oils today are much better, I have two vehicles over 100k no engine issues. I drive my truck for work…I’d be changing every month at 3k
I've seen the 1.4 turbo Ecotec with some fuel dilution on a few websites. Most likely due to short trips.
That’s what I was thinking as well
Try running a complete fuel system treatment containing polyester amine (PEA) to address your fuel dilution. Carbon buildup on your injectors is a leading cause of fuel dilution. Your wear metals do not indicate a worn out engine.
I will try that…thanks!
You got another subscriber and liker 👋 I am running Ultra on my 2024 Wrangler 3.6.
I wonder why you are not using 0W-20. Is your Pentastar older than 2016?
It does require 0W-20…for some reason I have mistakenly picked up the 5W a few times…So I’ve been running the 5W in summer and 0W in winter. Not sure I’m a fan of the 0W-20. I believe this is strictly a fuel mileage improvement reason. Multiple oil samples on this vehicle and it is performing very well. Thank you for subscribing!!
So important to consider cost per quart. Otherwise, absolutely fantastic video!
That’s true…Pennzoil is most expensive and hard to find in my area…thanks for the compliment!
I tried PUP on my 13 Accord 2.4l 6MT thats tuned. Engine seemed to be noisier. I tried Castrol Edge in the past but car didn’t start as smooth. I’ve been using Valvoline Extended Protrction recently and cold starts have been smooth and quick. However, I just did 2 autox events and 1 track day. 4,100 miles later, I changed the oil and burned a full quart or maybe quart and half of oi. I pour the full 5 quarts in and car calls for 4.4qt. Only around 3.5qts came out. I’m looking at different oils that have lower NOACK so it doesnt burn as much. Possibly may try LiquiMoly Molygen.
Let us know the results of the liqimoly
@ if I remember I will. Read some reviews people sayin it doesn’t burn as much.
For me its hard to get Pennzoil platinum in the area or very expensive. Using Valvaline restore and protect.
Hard to locate it here in my area as well. Be careful with the Valvoline clean and restore…I heard Iir can do too good of a job and plug up your oil filter. I would recommend changing early a couple times.
Wait for the Walmart rollback sale, if you want the Pennzoil platinum; about the same price as super tech
Very nice video, thanks
Thank you!!
I'm thinking of adding Zmax,is that a good idea?
I don’t think there is a need…could create more problems? Engines today are highly sofisicated
@@whatyaknowjoe67 thanks,I wasn't sure.
Try Havoline full synethic life long pro DS 5 w 30 love this oil
I’ve heard some good things about Havoline
Do a 0w20 vs 0w30
I might do OW-20 vs 5W-20
With those results, I'd say get whichever is easier to find or less expense if they're both on the shelf at the store.
Agreed. Pennzoil ultra is hard to find in my area…. Had to order thru Amazon
That is how I see it also. Pennzoil ultra is also hard to find around here. Plus PU price is getting up in price around here.
I've tore down a few engines over the years and it wasn't the oil analysis that was the issue it was sludge build up inside the engine. Pennzoil left so much sludge you could scoop in out with a tablespoon. I didn't see that with engines run on Valvoline which I've used for years in everything except my airplanes.
I remember back in the 80’s Pennzoil was garbage
@@whatyaknowjoe67 It was from 1975 to the 80s that I was doing automotive engines and then in 87 I switched to aircraft after getting my Airframe & Powerplant license which I still do. But about 4 years ago I started doing cars again, mostly diagnostics. I've heard that Pennsoil cleaned up their sludge problem but I haven't tore down enough car engines to confirm or deny that yet. Ha! Yeah I'm old but I never learned to play golf and I still enjoy diagnosing and fixing stuff after 49 years of doing it.
@@willispower9493good to have hobbies and important to keep moving as we age
Sometimes things that were true once are no longer true, and with engine oil with all of the changes and R&D this couldn't be more true.
Pennzoil was bought out by Shell, Shell had / has a reputation for it's cleaning abilities and no known sludge issues (either at all, or that is reported recently),
How old is your experience with sludging?
Is it recent like a maximum of 5 years ago? or was it 10 years ago? or was it from the late 70's early 80's?
Strange….where I’m from it was rumored to be just the opposite. Locals swore they wouldn’t put valvoline in a lawnmower! I think it’s all hogwash. Most of the sludge comes from driving short distances without a proper warm up….no matter what oil you use. But, you can’t reason with unreasonable people. I wouldn’t be surprised that there’s people who’d change it once a week.
As far as i cant tell ive watched countless videos on valvoline protect and restore and im going to try it next oil change as besides the videos the reviews are 5 star's
Let us know how it performs!
Plz test Castrol Edge black bottle.
It is on the list for a future video
Ok,cool@@whatyaknowjoe67
Im on my second oil change with valvoline restore and protect. Always been a fan on valvoline. Id like to try the pennzoil ultra platnium but nobody carries it in stock. I like to use what is available off the shelf. Im not even sure if the Valvoline restore and protect will do much on my car. Its a 2019 civic coupe ex-t, and ive done 3500 oil changes since new. Im currently about 200 miles away from hitting 70,000 miles. Ive noticed that the restore and protect smells awful out of the bottle 😂. Must be all the detergent? Ive tried castrol and for whatever reason my engine doesnt seem to like it. I spend a lot of time in my car, and can feel when the engine just seems off. It also likes the Kirkland full synthetic, which is great since its $30 for 10 grts. This time around im going to do 5,000 miles to really let the valvoline work.
I had a hard time finding the Pennzoil as well…had to order off Amazon.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 I hear home depot of all places has it. The nearest one to me is 40 minutes away.
One or two parts per million is within the margin of error of the test itself and the sample size. So it cannot be said that there is ANY difference between those results, because of the error inherent in the test equipment, and the small sample size (only sending in one sample), and also the difference in driving conditions and mileage on the car.
Agreed. Both good oils and comparable
Good and very detailed analysis. Thank you.
But I’ll stick with the Mobile one.
All three are good oils
Mobil 1 is hard to beat.
I use the Platinum not ultra platinum in 1989 Dodge D150 with the 318 engine. I bought this second hand, the previous owner always used regular not synthetic Pennzoil oil. Now it has 318659 km and so far so good, uses very little oil. I use the Valvoline synthetic in my 2009 Ford Focus, again, so far so good. Quite happy with the results of both oils. I enjoy watching your videos, thanks for the information.
You’re welcome…and thanks for watching my videos…I appreciate that!
Dont use platinum in cold winter climates. It has the cold flow properties of honey. Check the project farm cold flow test if you don't believe me. Run ultra platinum in the winter.
Using regular Platinum versus Ultra Platinum makes no sense with the minute cost difference. The PUP is way superior. You guys whining about a four-dollar difference cost and using the best filters makes me laugh. Engines are expensive and the have the best oils being in Valvoline or Pennzoil, it makes no sense to step over dollars to pick up dimes.
The best oil is changed oil, simply put 🤷🏽♂️
Agreed
Penzoil for the W
A slight advantage…yes. Problem I have found in my area is that it is hard to find in the Platinum Ultra
Off topic but on my g35 when I did my oil change I did Mobil 1 extended protection high mileage, and man I don’t think it liked it as it the engine was loud but so I switched to Valvoline next and it was quieter and they are amazing also. But switching to Penzoil rn it’s more quiet then both oils or maybe it’s just me. I simply now like it a lot more because it’s cheaper then both and essentially on the same level if not better. But amazing video! But I don’t think it matters as long as you keep the oil fresh it don’t matter
I listened but really didn’t hear any difference in the sound of the motor from the two different oils.
Good stuff
Appreciate it
I use eather one 😊
I agree
Need to double flush to be honest.
Use Lake Speed Junior's company for Anaylisis.....superior to Blackstone.
Thank you…that’s diagnostix correct? I do have a comparison between them coming up in a future video
@@whatyaknowjoe67 Yes ,Speed Diagnostix.
very cool
Thanks
To me go cheaper and more frequent oil change should help with the life of the cars engine and maybe a good oil filter.
Agree…the OEM filters that I’ve used seem to be doing a good job
Two (Good) oils but neither are the best ! Try Amsoil, it beats all the others in "Real World" as there are tests on the oils used after mileage.
Testing amsoil right now
Amsoil signature series lacks the required approvals. Worrisome if under warranty.
@@RFJersey Untrue - AMSOIL synthetic motor oils meet or exceed the latest industry standards, including GM dexos1 Gen 2 and Gen 3, API SP, and ILSAC GF-6. AMSOIL offers a Limited Warranty that covers the cost to repair or replace damaged components for as long as the product is used. The warranty also doesn't restrict coverage based on vehicle miles. For example, AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil is guaranteed for 25,000 miles, 700 hours of operation, or one year, whichever comes first, in normal service. In severe service, it's guaranteed for 15,000 miles.
@@Bowhunters6go8xz6x For double the price of my regular oil (when my regular oil is at full retail) or triple the price when my regular oil is on special....
With my regular oil being a top tier oil from a reputable brand, NOT some cheap nasty oil from a questionable brand,
For that additional cost, on a depreciating asset, that even if it stops ALL engine wear won't stop everything else from breaking (which will eventually lead me to replace the vehicle)...... no thanks :-)
@@whatyaknowjoe67What viscosity are you testing?