Big Wall Anchor Tricks That Can Save You Hours
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 พ.ย. 2022
- Big Wall #9 of 14 - www.bigwalls.com
Anchors can be the leak in your time boat. You can lose so much time if you don't have anchor skills dialed. If you can't build the anchor quickly, if heavy stuff smashes down what you want to unclip later, if the bag is on the left and you have to haul towards the right, or are just completely unorganized. You can shave your aid leads down to a quick half hour a pitch but lose it all at a 2 hour anchor cluster... OR you can take a casual hour to lead something but make up for that by doing your anchor, hauling and change over in 10 minutes.
This specific chapter is at www.hownot2.com/post/bigwalls...
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Intro
02:33 2 bolt anchors by Jeremiah
07:34 2 bolt anchors by Ryan
14:14 3 bolt anchor by Jeremiah
18:12 3 bolt anchors by Ryan
23:01Trad anchor by Ryan
26:04 Trad anchor by Jeremiah
32:45 Staying organized
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This channel is so ridiculous. The amount of knowledge I've gained from it is seriously awesome. Respect as always guys.
Thanks for helping us all learn from your experience.
on the three point anchor by jeremiah, the center biner isn’t actually getting pulled two directions, the cordelette is.
if you had 2 separate loops of sling or cordelette going different directions through that carabiner then yes, you’d have 3-axis loading.
but here since the knot is the only thing getting pulled two directions, you’re loading the center carabiner only one way, so yeah, totally safe
Thanks for all the content, especially the Bolting Bible.
Thank you. So helpful!
Do you have an adhd and gifted diagnosis?The depth, the self awareness, the trauma, anger, crazy but not crazy thought processing, the passion and talent, the way your mind intertwines links, externalising your internal dialogue of your several voices without it being Dissociative Identity Disorder, just the layers upon layers upon layers, the spiritual awareness, I can't even truly explain but I'm pretty sure you and Ren are the only people I've seen who have been able to accurately provide a visual and audio representation of what also goes on inside my head. You are pure genius and don't get enough recognition for that. Thankyou for sharing your brain and music with the world.
Thank you for your time and great content!
CLOVE HITCHES FOR THE MASTER POINTS!!! and all anchor points!!!
Hey man. Love what you do. Thank you
Thank u, u saving us so much money which we can invest in our trips and adventures! Love from Slovakia!!!❤
KISS, You certainly don't need locking biners on every bolt. Makes sense when you are using one as a 'poor mans' rigging plate as you say but not necessary on every bolt....
Mulțumim!
Thanks!
I don't know if you're planning to attend this year's ITRS in Albuquerque or not, (we were supposed to talk about it some time back and never connected) but I hope to see you there this weekend! Keep doing what you do! Cheers!
Keep up the good work :)
Thank you
Teaching with CMC we always taught 3 point anchors two down and one up. If the leader falls the pull on the belayer is UP.
Not often in a climbing setting. Would depend on the anchor and fall potential. Especially not necessary with a bolted anchor.
When using an opposing piece in your anchor, you should be thinking what is most important, holding the anchor down or holding the belayer down? Sometimes its both sometimes one or the other , you have to learn to observe the larger picture
I'm a big fan of trad anchors using cascading sliding-x's.
Awesome thank you guys for making these vids. Feeding my stoke to big wall!
But why use the daisy when climbing up to the haul bag - you’re tightening the grigri anyway. Why not just weight it on top and do your thing in the bag, then lower down.
Worried the grigri might push against something and disengage the cam?
Thanks again 🙏🏻
I've always wanted to like the quad anchor, but find once you've jugged on it (or worse, fallen and rescued off it) the knots are too much of a pain to remove. I think the arguments about extension if one side blows are academic since that just never happens if you build your anchor properly, but I tend to favour the BFK type set up just for ease of getting everything packed up ready to use again. I guess if you're going to dedicate a couple of slings as quad anchors permanently and not use them for anything else then that would work pretty well.
Yeah it’s dedicated. What do you think he didn’t try to untie his lol
Hello guys , very good video… dump question the 7 mil cordelette is a dynamic cordelette ?
Thank you
heyy. This content is truly amazing! Thank you foe that. I wanted to ask how thick the cortelete is. I know 6mm is 'minimum' amd most people use 7mm. What do you all use? 7mm feels so thin 😂. But i think 8 will be too much.
Sorry to be a wet blanket, and I don't know if all of Mark Hudon's material (static web pages and videos) is still available, but it's WAY more correct and efficient (simpler). Notably he likes just using rabbit-ear figure 8s and alpine butterfly knots instead of some type of anchor point rope or sling. PTPP's stuff is great too; maybe not so simple but very correct in details. The points in the intro text are spot on perfect, but my 2c is, anyone who isn't already conversant, in his or her sleep, with most of the basic anchor details that are talked here should do a few years of long trad climbs first and then think about walls. Speaking of which, definitely the best way to learn quick anchor setup is to do just that: a bunch of grade IV and V trad climbs with a hefty dose of non-bolt anchors. Long climbs are the ticket because time is at a premium and you get tired, so simplicity and consistency are super valuable to maintaining safe anchor construction. Specifically with anchors, cordelettes get really welded when used as wall anchors and are difficult to untie, even if you use a spacer biner in the knot. Webolettes are better but still problematic. Alpine butterfly is a great wall anchor knot and probably the easiest one to untie after being heavily weighted. Those horizontally clipped rope segments won't work well, if there's much clipped to them it just mashes all together and is not accessible. Either you need a bunch of clipped point to keep crap separated, or use a daisy chain with the various things clipped to the separate loops (as shown at about 33:10). And so on.
Ryan! What you've shown with equalizing cams by clipping them together (alpine equalization) is a good technique, but you show a critical error. I dont believe loading the thumb loop in the configuration you've shown should the bottom cam fail would hold (maybe it should you should test it). To my knowledge it is best to clip the sling or carabiner of the cam.
Why wouldn’t you be able to clip into the thumb loop that the sling is connected to anyways?
@@DJ-kg6zq
The wire loop of the cam is, beneeth the plastic, swaged togethe like it would be on nuts or visible on older cams.
This connection is not designed to take forces that pull apart the wire strands exiting the swaged sleeve. The wires will be loaded over the edge of the sleeve and at the very least get kinked. The swaged sleeve will not be loaded equally over its length, like it is designed to, but pried at one end.
So probably bodyweight but would definetely not whip. 😅
With the big locker point all the way.
11:15 was that the sound of someone decking ?
I think it would be interesting to see someone who’s never climbed before to try and rig what they think is best before you show us what you’re taught.
Just something different!
Fun acronym point: If you spell EARNEST the way the word is spelled, you can jam angles in there, which makes it slightly smoother than serene-na or ernest-sa
Hello 🙂 any way to buy rockytalkies from europe pleaaaaase? 😁
Ryan, don't you think that at 40:19 the biner of the red Totem should be clipped to the yellow sling instead of the thumb loop?
yea, don' put opposing forces on that point of the cam...
But now you''re going to have to break a cam loaded like that ;)
Same oponion here. I'm happy somebody allready pointed that out. I don't know about every cam on the market, but with most the two wire strands would be separated by the upper carabiner. The whole plastic sheath would rip apart until the biner reaches the head of the cam, where the two ends of the wire loop are pressed fast. After that it would hold some Force, but probably not reach MBS, beacause of the wires beeing kinked in different directions at the edge of the cam head attachment.
A Jeremiah question, What length cordalette works best for your anchors?
A "rule of thumb" and what I use is 20'. 20 to 25 works for me. 👍
Have you or could you test a quad that’s always tied vs a quad that is tied and untied. Basically is there any loss of strength from a tight knot that’s been tied for a while
That’s a cool idea. If I had to guess it wouldn’t change the strength to much. It might stop the knot from sliding and make less friction heat.
Is there a reason to NOT use rigging plates? Seems like it is an easy way to create clean anchor points that will minimize the chance of "trapping" tie in points and biners when they are clipped in the incorrect order.
they would help slightly, but they are not worth their weight overall. If you are doing something ridiculous with 5 haulbags then I have seen people employ them, but for normal stuff they are not necessary
What happens to equalisation if one piece blows in Ryan’s cascading anchor (sliding xs into quad)? The sliding x with be fine but will the final quad have all the load on one limit knot? Also what happens if you are pas’d in to the master point? I guess from the shock loading video that even with a static pas it will probably be ok?
See his sliding x video for your answer 😎
I'd suggest you ditch the PAS and use the rope as your attachment point, keeps the system dynamic, allows you to not have to have a CF attached to your harness for only one purpose and the rope is leagues more adjustable. The PAS is a gimmick
@@dl6225 on multipitch I do like to clove in but in all clips I see of bigwalls people have a pas. maybe it is more convenient for moving around and sorting clusters? definitely not s gimmick though, cleaning anchors and raping all are much nicer with a pas even if it's just a knotted 120cm nylon sling.
@@andrewhunter6536 Sure at a wall long tail on the rope then move around with your daisies etc. When rapping sure, use a sling your climbing with a dozen anyways. I'm just referring to the PAS that Metolius has. You just simply don't need that extra piece of equipment for just that purpose.
@@dl6225 ah thanks for the clarification that makes sense
How do i see other peoples ideas and comments on the website?
Might be a dumb question as I don't big wall, but why use a sling when you can use your rope if switching leaders? Clove on one point to get yourself temporarily secure. Take up slack, clove to the other point. Knot a loop between the two points for your master point. And clove yourself to the second point using the slack. You're on both points. Your master point too. Easy to adjust to weird points as you just pick more or less slack.
Anything wrong with that solution?
You need an extra carabiner on your harness loop to clove yourself to the second point of course
This isn't the main topic of the video, but I want to point out an error with the setup at 24:29. Clipping the carabiner into the thumb loop of the lower cam is a bad idea. The thumb loop is being pulled in two different directions and opened. Instead, the proper way is to clip into the sling of the lower carabiner. Think about where the force is being applied on each thing you clip into; you want it to add components in a way that will pull in the same orientation.
In France, all of vertical activities instructors told me that Clove hitch going to slip arround 400kg (or is it a myth?)
So, why do you tie a clove hitch at the end of the cordelette ?
That's just not true, it's a myth.
Long time ago i climbed (Belgium/Alps/Jura). I always wondered why ppl are not consistent in double security.....Most climbers use double anchors etc. No1 uses a double harness, double rope, double loop or karabiner on the harness to tie in/on the rope(s).. It's weird. One time we had 1 in a group with a hip harnass and chest harness He clipped into his chest harness halfway the mountain on a ledge and voila chestharness came undone malfucntion in a knot...there he was standing on a ledge with no security at all... I am a fan of twin rope, double tie in and i sure would like to see some sort of double harness security beeing developed (quite possible these days with low weight dyneema). Imagine on your harness the hipbelt buckle is faulty or not properly done...you'r screwed...Same goes for securing someone with let's say a figure eight...so many mistakes i see, people not using proper hand technique, not wearing a glove, If the front guy/woman falls suddenly and the securing person is just making a handover,,,you'r going to fall and the one securing burning his hands trying to secure a fast gliding rope...No1 ties a prusik or knot in the end of the rope or something so the front climber can't fall in case of a sleeping securing climber...
Came for the clickbait Ryan Sheridan thumbnail, left disappointed to not see his pretty curls anywhere!
I hate that first cordelette anchor
There's more than one way to lose a friend 😅
wait, you don't sleep attached to something?
If it's not a-cute, it's ugly.
You want the angle more a-cute because no one wants to climb with an ugly partner.
Knots weaken the anchor by more than 50%.
I’m sure they’re aware of this
Or just be like Alex H. and free solo and you don’t need any of this equipment
Thanks!