Hauling Giant Big Wall Bags up El Capitan
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ส.ค. 2024
- Big Wall #10 of 14
Hauling can be a nightmare, or just a chore depending how you do it and if you stay organized. Keep it simple applies here as well. Jumping straight to a 2:1 or worse a 3:1 (which needs a redirect) may not give you much advantage but add 2x or 3x the amount of work to get the bag up. Hauling is also an indicator that your partner rope is fixed and ready to ascend. It's essential to haul and dock the bags on the side of the anchor the bag is GOING, not coming from. Access to your stuff is easier if you dock the bag as high as you can instead of it hanging 15 feet below you.
This specific chapter is at www.hownot2.com/post/bigwalls...
👉 Learn and SHOP at www.hownot2.com/shop
👉 Best EMAILS on Earth: www.hownot2.com/signup
👉 SUPPORT US and get gear discounts hownot2.com/support
👉 10% off ROCKY TALKIE by clicking www.hownot2.com/rocky
00:00 Hauling Can Suck, or Not
03:32 Jeremiah's Demo
17:02 Ryan's Demo
39:56 2:1 System
44:00 3:1 System
45:47 Final Thoughts
![อยู่ได้แล้ว - LIPTA feat. Mirrr [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-9-hpntNym4/mqdefault.jpg)
Questions:
1) do you pull up the extra lead rope like on a normal multipitch or do you leave it hanging? I've heard a lot of people say it's better to pull up all the lead line first, but I'm not really sure why that is.
2) with regards to the haul line, I've been practicing using bags. When I flake the rope into a bag it's upside down, and if the leader were to blast off the haul line would be coming from the bottom of the bag and inevitably cause a clusterfuck. My solution has been to just flake the haul line onto my lap/my daisy, then open the haul device and feed the rope backwards through the haul device into the bag, after which it is now correctly oriented. Does putting the haul rope through a sling instead solve this problem?
On MP I've heard numerous experienced wall climbers say using bags is the best solution, but this seems to require flaking the haul line twice. Do you always have to flake the haul line twice, or does flaking into a sling mean you only have to do this once?
1 - Jeremiah does not, making the follower deal with it because he has enough to deal with during hauling. Depending on my partner, I may pull up the rope if it makes them faster though I love not pulling the rope up if I don't have to.
2 - I always wait to flake my rope into my bag until i've pulled it all up for this reason. I find a rope flaked while pulling it out from the bottom isn't the end of the world but it's not ideal. Now that i'm thinking about it, i wonder if those double ended canyon rope bags might be the solution for this???
*I never leave or have the leader leave the anchor without both ropes flaked into two separate bags. It makes a world of difference.
I like this link from hownot2 with this fellow who climbs in the Valley: th-cam.com/video/N7VNdONAIy4/w-d-xo.html
as a climber with zero big wall experience, and 3 multipitch route sends to my name, this is definitely vital information that I will use every day for the rest of my life.
I love this series SO much. My ultimate goal is big walling and this has been so comprehensive and much easier than pulling from a ton of different resources.
Took a friend out for her first ever climb yesterday and I was impressed with how much she already knew-she spent all night watching videos on this channel so she’d feel comfortable with the gear. Keep it up guys!
I have never big walled and probably never will but I'm fascinated by learning about all the complexities. I watch every one of these videos!
Sin cé you are asking for comments. I watch these out of interest. I am a climber who has no interest in doing a big wall but cool to see everything that goes into it.
Hey Ryan,
as much as I love your passion about walkie talkies and the way you present Rocky Talkie to us, I hate the fact that I cannot use (or even buy) them in Europe. They are forbidden due to the frequencies they use.
Can you maybe make the company come up with a solution for Europe or at least find someone who can recommend something similar for the European market.
Thank you for all your great work!
Yea, they are working on that as soon as their water proof mega power version comes out. It's the 2Watt of power that is the real deal break for euro rules.
Cool! This is really what I wanted to hear 👍 thanks
I was just thinking its really a May Pole down for the pig tether. Maypoles twist, Barber poles just swirl around one way. The climbing world got the wrong term going!
My brother got a pair of rocky-talkies for us to use and they are SUPER BAD ASS! YOU NEED THEM TOO!
Love this series! Super informative and concise. Always looking forward to the next video.
One thing that works really nice for not "pushing pushing down the 2:1 hauler" on Miah's system (41:41) is clipping a jug of water to the croll or basic or whatever is biting the rope up in the 2:1. The weight does the trick beautifuly.
Neat idea! I’ll give it a shot!
Kick A$$ series guys. Watch every one of them. Love the contrast with you and Jeremiah's methodology is great!!
These videos are great! Have you mentioned anywhere a break down of your failed big walls? I know you've mentioned in passing in other videos, things like weather, but it'd be great to have a video where one by one you just go through what went wrong so we can learn from it
I think I recall him saying that all of his failures were logistic in cause; it was in a video where he's packing haulbags? Pretty sure, could definitely be mistaken though
That is an interesting idea. We learn a lot from failures I’ll think about how this could best be done
love the a-z content. its great to see this all as we build our outdoor skillset
I'm definitely finding it interesting seeing the differences and similarities between big walling and technical rescue
Such an incredible resource. Y’all are an amazing part of the climbing community!
I’m gonna use this to camp on top my lil 150’ scramble
Love the A-Z as someone that wants to go tall! Love everything so far, please keep it up!🤙
BITD we used what was called a Wall Hauler; the first fully contained hauling ratchet. The problem with these was that they bent out of shape if more than 200 pounds were put on the device. We found out the hard way when space hauling and the unit bent and trapped our haul line. This caused us to bail, fortunately very low on the route. We went right back to using an upside down ascender and the pully from the now destroyed Wall Hauler and finished the route.
i know this is probably a hit for views n stuff but a great recourse. Thanks for what you guys do ✌️
You can clip a carabiner with a little weight (a liter water bottle or a couple of cams) to the lower hole of the basic and the weight automatically resets the basic.
I always click these video when they come out. love the content keep it up.
I think this series is great I never thought big walls were ever something I would be into or could do but these videos make me want to. Definitely helps understand how its done and take away fear.
Have you pull or drop-tested something like that tiny haul loop extension? Curious about 1. how much force would actually be yanking you off the wall; 2.whether that little loop would reliably break before your harness haul loop; 3. If there is an "ideal" cord diameter to use for that application. Thanks for another great video!
Good information thanks so much
Great series for someone interested in the mechanics. I'm decent at one-day multipitch, but one day, maybe...
Keep them coming 😉
Thank you for this series! Very excited to put the whole thing together into a big picture! You've got me ordering wall gear with almost each video (ouch)
Have you done a quick vid on counting tension in pulley systems and understanding simple vs complex systems? Might be a good segue into industrial/emergency services tech rescue material.
edit: interested to hear you guys' thoughts on short fixing, especially in a force measuring vid and maybe some contextualized demonstration.
Thanks again!!!
I’d love to demo big wall context actual forces with linescales and in a 40m haul scenario. We did do this for pulley systems before th-cam.com/video/tUDLNVdSQNw/w-d-xo.html
@@HowNOT2 Ah that's right. Thank you!!!
Personally, I think if you add in a foot ascender it makes the haul even easier since you using just your legs and not your whole body(if the weight is reasonable). This is.just my personal method but I think it works well.
Please "close" the protrax! On the older version, this is absolutely mandatory, there was an incident on El Cap this season where the device exploded open because this was not clipped, no one got hurt but it could have been dramatic. On the new version, I believe Petzl says it's not mandatory but the failure mode may exist.
What about “other Ryan”s heel bounce technique
I think it's a CMac tip: tie a sling through the top hole of your ascender and bite it. it'll come up on its own, letting you keep your hands in place, and gives you free slobber all over your gear.
At 45:20 you mentioned it was a 5:1 system but it is two 3:1 in series, one 3:1 hauling on another and that makes it a horrendous bad 9:1. Also if you are where you need to substitute pulleys with carabiners put the pulleys closest to the hauler in the system
At 40:45 Would it be an improvement letting the basic ascender lower itself by adding some weight to the lower hole?
Ryan I love ur shirt
"If I can get a good 12inces I'd be fine" that's what she said. she is not fine 😂
You don't need to add -ate to the word "orient". It's already a verb. 😂Great video series!
That Pro Traxion protracted and it can't contract anymore.
It ( Petzl Pro Traxion should always be clipped. Because someone may have the old version and that one MUST always be clipped. The Kong Block Roll is the mac daddy of all 1 to 1 hauls.
31:10 Do you really want to clip the end of the haulline on your anchor in case "the bag is going on a ride"? I'm worried, there would be a hell of a impact on the anchor if the heavy haulbag takes a whip on the entire lenght of the static rope (let's say 60m). Rather loose my stuff than ripping out the anchor which I'm hanging on
5:22 when Jeremiah clipped the backup to the centerpoint the bunny-ear bhk did not have carabiners through all the ears, is that ok?
Typically the idea is to only use two ears to leave the other two available for something else and still be independent. Two is redundant and super good enough
@@HowNOT2 thank you :)
Maybe I need more caffeine because I can't figure out whether hauling semi static versus dynamic is really a big deal. Sure you haul more rope at first to take up slack and that feels bad, but that energy is elastic in rope and it's given back to you in tiny installments when you stand up (in simplest example of a 1:1 haul with a microtraxion above you and sitting down with a jumar on your harness). Unless the dynamic rope gets hotter, where could that energy have been wasted? Is it wasted? I think semi static is safer to jumar (less bounce on edges) but is it actually that much better for hauling. We need a backyard scientist to test the energy used, anybody know one?
Would you still buy the Pro Traxion over the micro or Nano?
100% most of the time I’m always hauling off a protrax.
@@jeremiahletourneau9951 Thanks! Why that over the Micro?
The reason for me is because the micro is only helpful for loads similar to 100 or less pounds because it starts putting extra tension on the pin effecting efficiency. As a result, I find the protraction able to handle bigger loads thus staying more efficient
@@jeremiahletourneau9951 Oh right, you mentioned that later in the video! I should have rewatched it!
Mechanical advantage = low gear
Jeremiah you need to put a Jean on bottom of your protrax sir . Considering you level of safely elsewhere this seems sketch
Clickbait Title: Hauling Giant Pig up El Capitan. (show pic of said piggy with big popped-out eyes)
I'd have a lot of confused farmers watching the video 😂
Big wall pig roast😁
Ryan, you are so fine when you say KN and metres
but then not so fine when you say inches and pounds
:(