Slings vs Lanyards vs Personal Anchors - Differences, Usages & Safety Musts | Ep.3
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 มิ.ย. 2024
- Detailed Class on Slings, Lanyards & Personal Anchors (PAS). Learn how to properly Choose & Use them & Avoid Dangers that arise from misusing soft Climbing equipment.
00:00 Intro
00:51 Slings - What can you do with Slings?
02:07 Slings - Dyneema & Static equipment Risks
05:42 Slings - Polyester & Nylon
06:45 Slings - Length 60cm, 120cm
07:23 Slings - Thickness
07:53 Slings - How easy it is to CUT a Sling?
09:41 Slings - Can a Rope CUT a Sling?
12:23 Slings - Can you tie a Knot in a Sling?
14:21 Slings - Old Slings can Loose A LOT of Strength!
15:53 Tethers - Using Sling as a Tether
16:50 Tethers - Daisy Chains - demo how they FAIL
18:40 Tethers - Personal Anchor Systems (PAS)
19:35 Tethers - Clove Hitch
20:44 Tethers - Adjustable Dynamic Lanyards
21:56 Tethers - KONG Slyde
22:42 Tethers - What tether to choose?
23:39 Tethers - Lanyards for Via Ferratas
24:06 Tethers - How to correctly attach your Tether?
� Products you have seen:
Mammut Contact Sling 8.0
Mammut Magic Sling
Black Diamond Link Personal Anchor
Singing Rock Daisy Chain
Petzl Connect Adjust
* Above links might be affiliate and give me small benefit.
❤ If you are getting value out of my videos and wanna feel good - consider supporting me
hardiseasy.com
Because that makes a big difference and allows me to do this project!
Deep Thanks!
Ben
❤ Special Thanks For Mammut for helping me to create this episode!
� Additional resources:
Alpinesavvy.com How to best connect a tether to your harness?
www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-...
Mammut magic sling
• Mammut Magic Sling (EN)
DMM breaking slings:
dmmwales.com/knowledge/june-2...
Black Diamond about daisy chains
www.blackdiamondequipment.com...
Fall comparison with rigid/human mass:
www.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/Fa... - กีฬา
I started climbing in 1994. I’ve done alpine climbing, big wall, rock, ice and mixed climbing. I’m a Rock Climbing Instructor and also an IRATA Level III, Instructor and Assessor.
This guy is a fantastic Instructor and I am happy for him to take me back to school.
B.
ㅈ
B who?
I've been climbing for nearly a decade and know most of this, but it's such a valuable resource I'm just gonna donate to you for taking the time to make it. Cheers!
I have tried. Some. Spanset. And they are a bit bigger. But. Awesome and ver hard to kill. Well its made for structural stuff. Thats why
Same here i just like to learn, I am an Arborist so the rock climbing stuff is a bit different and like he said its always good to know things even if you may never need to
I love that he says "If you don't understand what just happened then home for you is to figure it out." Every climbing video on youtube should say something like that.
Interesting video! Stay safe and keep them coming! :) As a side note: those falls with the big knife on your hand seemed rather dangerous :/
Narr ,he knows what he's doing !
I could barely watch the danger lol! Perhaps next time, one person cut while the other falls. Great video!
So dangerous.
I was scared watching it... I only can focus on the blade...
Stressed me out lol
I absolutely love your content. As a new climber your channel gives me all the information that I need - how the gear works, how to be safe, how to push limits, etc. The format is perfect for me and it's readily digestible. Keep it coming. I greatly appreciate what you do.
Far from everything, get someone more experienced go help you to start climbing ;)
But thanks!
You mean videos
I have watched this now in full for the third time over the course of 9 months. Each time I absorbed more and understood certain details better. This video is a nice refresher and I will keep coming back to it, because your way of explaining thoroughly with this relatively low pace just makes me more confident. This is especially true when having to make decisions in unexpected situations. No matter how much you practice dry... on the rock, pumped, windy, under load things are just always different. I love how you not just say "this is how its done", but explain why you do it that way. Watching your videos gives me the tools to explore myself and make decisions based on pros and cons. The many positive comments of experienced veterans and instructors builds even more trust in your content. Thank you very much for that!
Every climber should see this video.
Thanks for the clearest presentation on this matter ever.
Wow just last night I was multi pitch climbing. Was anchored in with a sling that was a step behind me while belaying. I had no idea this was not recommended sheeeeesh! Thanks for the video
I'm sharing this with all my Decathlon coworkers, lets see how far can we go!
I don’t climb anymore, but I love watching your content, entertaining, informative and interesting. You are a superb instructor.
These are excellent videos and very easy to follow. Having been climbing for 55 years (44 of those as a IFMGA guide) all over the world I would strongly recommend them to those seeking knowledge about ropework and use of climbing equipment. Keep it up.
I have no intentions of ever climbing anything, but I find these videos fascinating and you’re a great TH-camr.
Excellent tutorial. I can actually remember when from one season to the next all the Yosemite Valley regulars started using the clove hitch.
WRT equipment inspection: Rated gear also has a serial number. I keep a spreadsheet with all the serial numbers for every piece of gear (categorized), date of manufacture, date of last use, date of last inspection (not counting field inspection before use), purchase info, and notes about anything that could make the gear marginal (eg got left in a hot car or held a fall factor >1). Makes it easy to ensure I fully inspect everything annually. Probably overkill, but I'd rather have a bit of excessive caution when it comes to gear, particularly as I climb trad.
I think many companies would like go hire you 🙂
That's an awesome idea. I'm going to adopt this.
Can u share this spreadsheet??
@@kuhnn1291 Why? It's my personal gear. It's useless to anyone else.
@@PeregrineBF I was just going to apply it to my gear. Kinda like a template
Awesome videos. Thank you so much.
21:48 - I also like the Adjustable dynamic lanyard the most. What I do about "the extra tail dangling around your harness" - I extend it to be around its max length, clip it to my harness and then tuck the hanging rope under the harness strap on my leg. Somewhere on the side works the best, as the rope is not in the way. And a try to raise my knee as high as my flexibility allows, to make sure that the tucked rope is not limiting this move.
Fantastic video, good job, it's looking to be a fantastic library of climbing safety knowledge!
Regarding connecting slings with a larks foot, I was taught that connecting two, different diameter slings with a larks foot is extra risky, as the skinny one can easily cut the thicker one. Especially when the skinny one is Dyneema and the thick one is Nylon
Nothing dangerous about falling with a knife in your hand 😂
Edit: just saw this in his insta post lol
Yeah I was worried he'd injured himself in the face with the knife, while doing a video explaining how to climb safely that would have been quite ironic xD
I nearly cried 😂
Really cool explanation of slings and such. But when you were cutting the slings yourself, holding such a big knife, ooof got some goosebumps.
Sehr informativ. Und sehr sauber gesprochen. Mein Englisch ist nicht gut, aber ich hab fast alles verstanden 👍
Ich bin der Dyneemaschlingen Typ. Leicht und vielseitig einsetzbar.
As someone who's been sportclimbing in a gym for 3 years now, and who's wanting to make the transition to outdoor climbing, this course is invalluable! Thanks so much for taking the time to put this together, it's gold!
Excelente explicação sobre o assunto, me ajudou muito. Estou ansioso esperando pelas próximas aulas. Obrigado por colocar as legendas traduzidas para o português (Brasil).
Word of advice: break or cut the point off of that knife when doing those tests so you don’t accidentally bounce and stab yourself.
Finally, I’ve been waiting for a video like this for so long.
Unbelievably educational. Keep up the good work! I've subscribed. As a beginner in the outdoor climbing scene this is just what I need
This series is seriously excellent. Can’t wait for more
This is probably one of the best
climbing channels I've come across. Everything is explained so well. Really awesome.
Your videos are top notch! It’s nice to know all the options and pros and cons especially for being new to buying equipment it’s hard to know what you should get , but this clears it up very well!
Started climbing 18 months ago. As a 58 year old novice your videos are so helpful in quickly and reliably getting to grips progressively with terminology, equipment selection and climbing skills and technique. Thanks.
Fantastic, informative video! Thanks for providing accessible, in-depth analyses on climbing gear.
Just wanted to say thank you for the great amount of knowledge your content provides! I am new to climbing outdoors and all your videos really teach me a lot! You're the man!!
You mean his videos
Simplemente espectacular que buena explicación del tema, como siempre es grato ver qué colocas la traducción, un fuerte abrazo desde Colombia parcero, y felices escaladas👍👍👍👍💪😊😊😊😊😊
You deserve all the praise. Thank you for being such a great teacher!
Absolutely excellent video with no BS. Thank you for your time and effort bravo
The structure and clarity of the videos is surprising, also the
support of experimentation. I have never seen this level of professionalism on other climbing or youtube channels! and translated subtitles! cheers from Argentina!!
Pleasure to read ;)
another awesome video on climbing know how. Thank you so much for your efford.
regarding the attachment of a teather to the harness, I‘ve seen also an alternative: You could also use the two tie in points with a bowlin (e.g. with dyneema slings). This option combines the best of both worlds ;)
I been reading a lot about climbing and anchors since couple of years, but seen here all together is awesome! cheers to your work! amazingly right!
I think i agree with pretty much everything in this video. For the via ferrata, you're absolutely right. Dont fall. If you're not exactly confident about what you're doing, remember that if you're at least two on a via, you can also have a form of belaying to ascend the via. This can ease a lot the experience for beginners.
I remember watching this series when I first started climbing and now I’m a few days way from my lead climbing class and find myself rewatching it thanks a lot for the video
I am not a climber,mountaineer trekker but owner of equippment shops and i love this guy contents. HIS INFORMATION HELPS EVEN NEWBIES AND AMATEURS
You mean videos
Obrigado pelo conhecimento e dicas transmitidos gratuitamente com o puro e simples objetivo reduzir danos e salvar vidas.
Damn your classes are amazing! I am so glad a friend recommended these, thanks for your outstanding content and keep up the good work :)
loving this series thanks for making my transition to outdoor climb so much smoother!
The most detailed and complete video on the net. Great job man!
Back some 17 years ago I actually tested to fall on a 60 cm dyneema sling in an indoor gym where I worked. Nothingbrokean d I was uninjured, that's not to say it didn't hurt or it was a good experience.That was the most static catch I ever had and one of the most stupid experiments I've done. Had the sling been 120cm or more I would surely broken my pelvis, this is where I felt the hardest strain. Great vid!
Been watching these types of videos for 2 years. I enjoy your mastery and video styles the best.
Excellent!, I am not a climber, but thoroughly enjoyed learning about the equipment you use. Gracias!
Great video, you go into the important details and highlight the difference between static and dynamic belay, without useless blabla, often seen in other YT channels.
Wow, just stumbled upon your channel while I was looking for videos to refresh my memory before I go outdoor climbing. I wish I had these when I was first starting out, great info and kept my attention throughout the whole video! Well done!
As a complete novice, just looking at safety gear for challenging hiking routes, these videos are a treasure trove of well presented educational climbing gear guides. Highly recommended.
The world needed this video. Thank you dearly!
1:34 never let go of the dead rope. Even with grigri.
Yes, but in this case it has already locked, so probably okay. But still not really advised.
Thanks for the effort and time you put into these videos. You certainly saved lives or a least make people learning stuffs.
This is absolutely fantastic. Great material, and brilliant delivery!
Amazing videos. This channel is such a great place to find a bunch of information in one place. Thanks!
As a new climber, your work is gold! thank you so much!
I use the kong slyde attached to the harness. No awkward reaching to adjust it from the anchor point. Impossible to lengthen without unweighting and tilting it down. Still quite easy to adjust when needed. However, the rope is important. Mine came with a 9.0mm rope and after a lot of use, the rope developed flat spots which allowed it to invert on itself in the slyde. Switched to a 9.8mm rope. No issues and still feeds nicely.
Thank you brother. I got no end of laughter watching you cut ropes while flinching. Very enjoyable.
You definitely published a high quality, educational and engaging video. So much great info. Thank you very much!
I really had no idea about lanyards or slings. Very good information in this video.
The TH-cam algorithm brought me here. I have no interest in this topic but mentioned the word yesterday. Coincidence
Thank you for this content! Its so educative and im glad im doing things safely and after your vids i will be much more happier to do it even more safely, and you made my decision of getting dynamic sling easier 😄
You mean videos
Vids=videos 💁🏻♀️
Thank you so much for these videos! You explain things so clearly and might even save my life.
I recently got some rappel and ascending gear to access new areas while hiking and feel a lot more confident using them thanks to your videos
Good to know, although I wouldn't rely on this info alone and do recommend getting some local supervised guidance to actually learn ;)
Thank you for calling them videos and not stupid content
Perhaps one thing to add to the overhand knot in a sling; for example for the extended repel setup you showed, is to clip the leftover loop into the carabiner to avoid any issues if the knot slips. This is what was taught to my for outdoor lead climbing years ago
These videos are incredibly good. Thanks for putting in all the work. It's basically my recommended go to resource for all my friends which have learned everything they know about belaying or material from me or another friend.
Merci pour cette série de tips ! Très bien expliqués
Fabulous videos. Made my mind up about an issue I was having. Thank you so much.
This is a wonderfully articulated lesson, thank you. Keep doing these videos you are really good at it.
Thanks man! It's amazing to find all this informations in one video.
Thank you so much for your work and the knowledge you are sharing with us! It's great! 👌👏🤜🤛
Great videos and lots of useful information. In western Canada many of us are fond of using the Purcell Prussik for personal anchors. Mostly in multi-pitch and Alpine climbs, but it's also seen in sport climbs as well . Keep up the great work!😊
Thank you for the master class ! Ho expliques molt bé. És molt necessari el teu coneixement i fas que la escalada sigui més que un esport, respecte per la natura i amor per l´esport. Esperant més contingut . You do an impressive job, thank you for it. From Catalonia. Kisses.
Thank you from Brazil! Very important information in a great format
When I was learning to rappel, Daisy Chains (or accessory cord knotted into several compartments) was used for multiparty rappels. One side was tied in to the active rappeler, and clipped to the rappel device. then a separate loop (preferably on the far side of the attachment to the rappel device) was clipped to the rescue object so both the rescuer and rescuee would be independently connected to the rope system.
It seems prudent to carry a personal anchor which allows isolating two attachment points when doing anything multi pitch where evacuating the area would require lowering on the rope system.
Good job! Another way to avoid squeezing when attaching the tether is via a bowline knot. You might lose some lenght, but it is a solid method
Really great video! Thanks for much details and widespread aspects!
So good! Thank you!!! I love sharing these with people. 👍🏼
Thanks for such a high quality and important content!
Man I am so glad I found your channel. Great content man.
Excellent content throughout all of these, thank you!
A great video and a clear and thorough presentation, thanks.
A comment for the test when you are using a rope to cut a sling, the Dynema heats up and then fails. It changes behaviour at different temperatures. When it is heated up it can stretch and deform more easily and it's tensile strength is reduced at that point. However once it has cooled it will stay deformed, but substantially recover it's strength. This is less of an issue when climbing, but when a dynema rope or sling is 'working' hard (under high load and tighter radius or a friction anchor like bollard wraps, then it heats up under the high load condition and reduces it's strength when dynamically working under high load.
Keep up this good work.
Excellent video! Very comprehensive.
incredibly valuable information brought to us in such a cool way!
Excellent vid, thanks for sharing.
So hooked with this series, fantastic explanations!
A purcell prussik the best tether for alpine climbing. Quick and easy to tie. Adjustable in length, dynamic, and when not used as a tether, it functions as a sling, so it's multi-purpose.
As Always, thank you for the amazing amount of work ! Congratulation !
i knew it all the years and know you told me this story....i never stop to pull my rope into both rings of the harnest....omg
The best of two worlds is Camp's Daisy Chain Twist. It solves the problem of accidental clipping in adjacent loops (the biggest problem of a classic daisy chain) and also is mounted to your harness tie-in points without squeezing the harness parts as a normal sling does. Obviously, it isn't dynamic, so you have to be careful.
Hi! Thanks for videos!!
Regarding attaching slings on harness my preferred method is using a bowline on a bite on tie in points of harness...that way the loop of sling in tie in points is equally long as the belay loops and doesn't squeeze the harness tie in points( and sensitive parts...😁).
Some people says that a very skinny dyneema sling girth hitched to the belay loop might cut it easily under load because the hitch gets tighter and tighter under load...using the bowline on tie in points fixes also this potential issue...
Aaron, the bowline on a bite uses quite a lot of sling length. Do you then use a 120cm sling instead of 60cm for tether? Also, do you dress the knot with 2 different loop sizes to be able to clip to different distances from the anchor? I see that as an advantage of the bowline on a bite.
@@DrStephan yes...usually i use a 120 with the bowline on a bite and a simple knot in the middle, so I have the tether in the longest "loop" and repell attachment in the shortest "loop".
You can do just a short tether with a 60 cm sling..
Excellent presentation for this beginner! Thank you!😃
Very informative and well produced. Thanks!
Love these videos. Seriously high quality
This is incredible for beginners like me :) looking forward to more eps
Thank you for helpful and interesting content! And be careful falling with the knife. It looks perilous...
Ótimo vídeo e bem detalhado.. na expectativa de mais vídeos. hugs from Brazil 🤟💪
You put so much work into this! Thank you so much.
Thanks for all the work that went into this video.
Thanks for all of you’re work that’s very helpful !
Thank you for these life-saving instructions!
Love this series, thank you 👍