How NOT to Haul on El Capitan - Big Wall Tips
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 พ.ค. 2021
- Big Wall Bible bigwalls.com/
Step 1: stay attached to the cliff
Step 2: set up a pulley system
Step 3: grunt when you pull down on the rope
Ok, more helpful tips: Dock the bag on the side of the anchor in the direction of the next pitch. Dock the bag to the tail of the rope using a munter with half hitches to lock it off so you can release the bag even if it wants to swing over. Pull up on the bag strand and down on the loose side to get bags up easier. Add a quickdraw to backup the pulley, especially if you are 100% on the jug line.
The bags were 1.33kn or 299lbf. Ryan put the same max force when pulling.
The anchor saw 3.10kn or 696lbf and not just 598lbf which would be the two sides added up. Why???
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Intro
00:27 Beginning
01:42 Connecting the bags
03:40 1st Haul - Dyno on bag
09:34 2nd Haul - Dyno on anchor
16:97 3rd Haul - Dyno on Ryan
18:30 5th Haul
19:52 Party Time
20:46 Ending
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This one´s for the algorithm and to wish Bobby a speedy recovery
Munter-clove is to climbing as pizza-fries is to skiing. If you do one when you should've done the other, you're going to have a bad time.
Hahahaha. This comment got me
😂 Stan Darsh!
Good analogy
Four weeks before i saw your channel id never want to hang from some of the ancors but now after all your stress tests id have no problem
This channel makes me want to start aid climbing. I've never done any climbing in my life but I somehow found this channel and it looks so amazing to do.
Do it. A0 level aiding is easy to pick up and a ton of fun.
@@johnmcho Yeah Aiding looks the most fun to me lol
Aiding is how technical climbers relax
I'm a hiker, afraid of heights. I love watching this stuff. It's incredible to watch and learn what it takes to do what you do. Keep it up
I 100% agree with you! I love to watch climbing and marvel at all of their equipment, even though I always get a sick feeling when you are looking down.
Nice to see this in a practical situation. There are a lot of TH-cam vids explaining the basic technique’s but not often you see the real thing. Tnx
Strong work gentlemen. Keep up the superb content. The community appreciates & greatly benefits from your sharing of knowledge.
It may be just me, but climbing at night has alway meant an epic in the making involving various amounts of cold and wet with a dash of neath death moments thrown in for good measure. This vid gives me hope.
love this kind of videos. 👍
so much content, tips and tricks to pick up. definitely gonna rewatch it a few more times.
Great vids ! Munter hitch known here in NZ (& other places ??) as Italian hitch. (because it changes sides so easily). Mamma mia ! No offenso intendo.
@ 13:22 that‘s almost the same technique we use in rope access to lift an injured or unconscious person out of their system, really cool to see it in this application
I've always been super curious about this. Thank you for the video!
Nothing but respect for you guys. What you do is complicated. Only its complicated on the side of a rockface, with thousands of feet to drop.
The 0.5 kN is the shock load, pull force equal to the gravitational force means you only hold the bags without the assistance of the blocking system of the trax pulley.
So you have to pull more to cause the upwards acceleration of the bags.
This explanation of course ommits the friction in the pulley, which also increases the force you need to pull the bags.
Oooof, that's a lot of variables. It's fun to do real life tests to see what happens.
@@HowNOT2 especially with so many stretchy ropes you can never be sure what the output will be, that's why we love your tests :)
Ryan 2 really has some good tips for hauling
You two make an awesome team like you were born on a big-wall 🙌❤️
Never a day in my life climb a mountain. But your videos are so informative, while being entertaining! Please keep it up ! Maybe one day I will attempt it.
So If anybody is dying it's me down here - yes, we Love redundantsie, but one Ryan is super good enough ;-) this was the answer I hoped for
Amazing content as always
That is great content right there
The best climbing channel I know
I'm not even a climber but I watch just for the sheer comedy brilliance. Keep going 💪
Best video in a while
Great video guys 🙌🏻
I'm gonna practice by hauling my backpack with sandwiches and beer on the 3-4 pitches I do 😂
Best video yet!
"It's a Ryan to one" I would like to see an engineering schematic of this
I concur
Really great episode. More big wall pls! :D
Great video!
I found this video very interesting even though I didn't understand half of it. Really enjoyable to watch. You all are crazy 🤪
The extra 0.5kN of force at 14:31 comes from the increased acceleration (F = m*a, so while the mass accounts for the 2.66kN, the acceleration on the anchor is higher since he is "jumping" on the ladder). That, or the increased force input because it got stuck under the roof.
Goodto see the guy from bag poop video
Great video ! …technical ! Fascinating …
I hope you make a video of the “stuff going on” up with those high line anchors
What a lovey clip, such a nice friend, keep him close!! :)
damn, thanks for sharing that video. it seems SOOO much fun
great video tutorial thingy thank you Ryan^2
Looking forward to seeing that lil 2mm cord properly breaking when you test that out on the drop tower!
Those anchors all look super good enough
You need a light weight cone that wont scrape on the granite to protect the bags and keep them from fetching up. Love the content!
Subscribed! I do arborist line work and really enjoy watching you guys, I have to give you for a lot of the safety check tips I swear by.
Thank you 🙏
I wonder if just a triangle of a thin plastic would work when hauling two big bags. (Only one side should be against the rocks and it shouldn't flip over if the bags are wide enough?)
I just imagined someone hauling bags topped with a traffic cone up the mountain 😆
Loved this film. I am maxed out for my donations this month with other orgs and plan to contribute $10 in June. If every person that watched this film donated $10 you could fund the channel for 6 months on a budget! Keep creating!
From the thumbnail it looked like Weird Al goes jugging.
Awesome video, have you done a video about which capture devices rip the rope first? Micro-T, Pro-T, ascenders, rope man, Kong duck etc. lots of folks use em for solo, would be interesting to see if the curved teeth are worse than the flat serated
I heard the algorithm is looking to hire
Velly velly nice 😬
I think they should to make light weight roll wheels to haul stuff up wall, it make less friction apply against wall.
More Sheridan please!
Sweet jesus and I thought trad climbing was faffy O.O
Not mutually exclusive.
Hey algorithm - we like this channel
I wish we had mountains like that here in the Appalachians of Nova Scotia.
Yeah I still have no clue about how to haul. In fact, I have less of a clue. Which is good, I've become more aware of what I don't know.
What beautiful rock, love that light granite with darker crystals. It looks too beautiful to climb on. Could you mail me a few cubic miles of it, happy to swap for some low grade rhyolite and a bit of shale
Commenting for the algorithm! Want more of this sweet sweet content on my feed
I’m gunna be that guy… munter mule half hitch 😂
that looks like some sketch clutter for sure that dude is wide open he is a beast that is very comfortable on that wall really like the edelrid gear I am a lime green guy and the gear looks nice and new
At least two of your videos I wish I would have seen a year ago.
We want you to climb the freeblast slab 🤟
I bent the hell out of an old Wall Hauler years ago up on a wall route hauling ~250 pounds. I have another one, undamaged, I should send to you to see what a light weight bends the catch sleeve to the point of having to cut the rope out of it. Yeah, that sounds as bad as it is.
I love your videos dude. Also has anyone ever told you you look like tony hinchcliffe and Dennis from IASIP had a baby?
Super Rad!
You mentioned at 16:46 that the bolts are stainless while the hangers are not. So I would be concerned about galvanic corrosion, what's your thoughts on that?
Hey, how do you like those Edelrid hauling bags ?
amazing video. not a mule knot though.
For a guy with a lot of gear to choose from I'm surprised you used a crappy old minitraxion as your haul device. Nice work though. El Cap is the happiest place in the world. I miss it.
How does the pound weight relate to the pound force? 300 ft-lb force hauling, i would assume the bags weigh at least 300lbs… but how to get to force?
Does anyone have an opinion on good|better|best first haul bag? There have been a few routes I would have really liked to have one and I've destroyed a couple daypacks hauling them over the years. For reference, I would like to eventually head out to Yosemite, but haven't big-wall'ed yet, so it would be nice to have a workable smaller size like the Eldrids (new to me) here most likely.
It dawns on me that some old haul bag might donate its last bit of life to the dyno and breaktester... if you had to, could/would you whip on it?? lol, thanks!
There pricey but fish haulbags are amazing. Run out customs i think still does haul bags. And there's always the standard Metolius and black diamond bags...I use the Metolius freerider for small single day stuff.
A 70L metolius has been my go to for 1-2 nights for two people. A 120L is better for more nights.
how far up do the fixed ropes go?
so many ropes and knots I had no clue what's going on but I'm pretty sure I would forget something and die
We'll make a more simple video, but this was the big picture
I feel like I would stick all my focus on my connection to the rock and then accidentally drop a bag on someone's head instead.
@@HowNOT2 I'm sure this was great for climbers I love the channel but I have never climbed before
@@markchristiansen4827 I feel like I would get the ropes confused and untie the wrong thing and fall on someone's head. with how many times I pay for my groceries and walk away with them still on the counter or open the fridge and forget what I was getting climbing just probably isn't for me. just one wrong knot or dumb mistake and you're dead
@@matthewdavies3623 the interesting thing is that when your life depends on it, you tend to have much better memory $& focus 😉
With a figure eight knot, do i still use a termination knot?
Still learning/ any comments welcome. Thanks!
Nope, fig 8 is bomber and an extra knot can get in the way
Quick question for all you climbing OG's out there...Is there a wrong way, or wrong direction to have that Petzel personal anchor system setup that ryan has in this video? Say one direction it locks up in a fall, and a different direction it just slips though to the sewn loops?
Nope… always locks up. I use it in a variety of different ways, its a super good device.
@@robertodeoliveira5735 Appreciate it! I just picked one. It's the version with sewn eyelet on one end and a sewn termination on the other end..Feels solid, just didn't know if there may be something to watch out for not mentioned in the manual
There is a right and wrong way to put the carabiner in through the rope and orange adjuster. However, because the rope end is doubled over it cannot fit through the device and cannot slip out. Worst scenario is that it doesn’t lock and simply extends out fully. It should be somewhat obvious if the device is locking or if you’ve slipped the carabiner in wrong.
@@alexfletcher5863 Yeah that's one thing I noticed..It has an arrow on the orange thingy for which side of the rope the carabiner goes through..I also just leave a dedicated carabiner in it now with that rubber ring to keep the biner from flipping or moving.
Looks like well earned Awesome fun?
it would be good to see how do you tie all those knots on the bags, don't quite understood how the bags tether it's made.
I've seen the video were you go through this, but I don't think this is quite the same.
The knot used was a bunny ears, you can google that
nice one!
Do I understand this right, that if the bag side of the pulley loses weight @04:47 (bag ripps etc) and is now lighter than ryan on the other side of the pulley, he would slip down uncontrolled?
100% correct. Important to always be aware of failure mechanisms, inspect haul straps and make sure carabiners are locked.
continuing the thought experiment ) if the bags suddenly got lighter Ryan would fall the distance between the bags and the pulley. Then then knot would jam and arrest the fall (or break?) ....
Scenario 2 ) Bags are much heavier than Ryan and the progress capture cam fails: Ryan would get dragged up until either he hits the pulley, or his partner who is leg pumping gets sucked up. Having a partner with a jug on the line almost adds a layer of redundancy.
Thoughts: As a Hail Mary last chance before death , Ryan could grab the other side of the rope and stop the weight differential from accelerating in either direction. I wear gloves and am almost always within arms reach of the other strand. Same idea behind catching yourself on a ledge after a fall while free soloing. Sure you might be able to pull it off but if you ever find yourself in that situation you already messed up many times prior.
@@ryansheridan5015 thats right. I'm feeling confident that if the pulley progress capture fails, the "leg pumper" progress capture would catch.
Is it not reasonable that Ryan below would attach himself to the fixed line with a traxion or similar in order to have a backup if the bags suddently detach? A problem that I see is that the "leg pumper" can only haul as fast as Ryan below climbs the rope. Ryan needs to climb as fast or faster than the "leg pumper" is pumping --> no breaks for Ryan.
@@daemkru Good insight. since the Ryan thing can get confusing, wall climbers call the counterweight (the guy going down as bags go up) the "Monkey in space" . You can totally jug at the same pace as the leg pumper and it will work. It does add alot more wear on the toes of your shoes though. If you want longevity from your footwear you just jug a certain distance then get lowered.
The progress capture idea you had is a good one, and the simplest way to make this safer would be to take a tail of rope and give the monkey a leash between 10ft and 30ft long. The monkey could just tie in and incase of disaster they wouldnt fall all the way. The monkey must be aware of where his weight is, because when the leash or capture device comes tight the monkey will no longer be helping with the haul
How many people Ryan? Also, how much water do you bring with you? I'm usually >2L/day/person on a wilderness trip, but that's an impossible on a climb like this.
A gallon per person per day on elcap is the standard
How is the rope above you at each pitch?
👍
Lol i don’t understand anything that’s going on. I did multi pitch but not multiple day one. Not sure why it’s that’s complicated
Ground control to Major Tom........How much does all this bouncing on the haul rope reduce its safety for leading ?
What type of rock is El Capitan formed from? Is it granite? Thanks
Yes, it is granite.
Is GGBY 2021 going down this year!!!????
Yes. Keep your eye out for it on their website. www.ggbygathering.org
Lucky
Maybe getting a gopro and sticking it to your helmet might be helpful
Engagement
That Snyder guy posted a video of himself cutting someone’s rope... 😩
I dunno if I’d say scam but definitely this platform has seen better days!!!!
Yeeeeer
There might be a visible phone number on one of the shots of the haul bag.
as a non climber..this video might as well have been in chinese
You show your phone number around 11:50. Just letting you know in case you want to remove.
You talk just like blippi
First
Dude, at 7:40 it’s 2 half hitches, not a mule.
Why are the comments disabled on the vids about Shawn Snyder's shenanigans?
How can you comment about a guy that is trying to sabotage and turn the comments off
Why all comments turned off for the last video is it bullshit if it is then your credibility is completely gone if it’s true then you need to let everyone know who he is and where he lives
really the only actual wrong thing in the video is the helmets you guys are wearing. 100% unnecessary and useless.
Man dont know y but ive ben glade to watch every video even though not climber never even thought of climbing i think all rigers and climbers of all types should watch this channel like tree guys iron workers and tower workers. Its so nice to see the strenghth of the gear of corse when your hanging you have the cast flaw in mind the swivil clips i never like to use even though rated for x amount of weight i hate the feel of hanging from one high strenghth bolt when on the crane
I just watched your video about setting new eye bolts but could not comment. I'm not a climber but I've drilled untold thousands of anchors over forty years in construction.
You need to set the new bolts a few inches away from the damaged ones, not next to them.
If you epoxy them, blow out the holes with air then flush with water and let dry. This will assure a clean hole. It's sad there's a psycho on the loose.