How to Setup a Multi-pitch Anchor | Climbing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this video I'm going to demonstrate how to build an anchor, secure yourself, and setup to belay your follower on a multi-pitch route.
Disclaimer: I am NOT a certified climbing guide, and this is NOT hands on instruction. Climbing can be safe, but is is super dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. This video can be used to refresh your memory, or to give you an idea of what to expect when going on a multi-pitch climb, but you should have hands on instruction from an experienced climber before attempting to do anything in this video for yourself.
Resources:
Types of two bolt anchors: • How to Set Up a Top Ro...
Types of three bolt anchors: • Advanced Climbing Anch...
Ways to connect (tether) yourself to anchor: • Tethering
Ways to belay a follower: • How To Belay from Above
Lowering a climber in guide mode (article): www.vdiffclimbing.com/guide-m...
Lowering from above with Grigri: • Quick Tip: Lowering fr... - กีฬา
I like Editor Jesse. He is very helpful.
Thank you, that's a very informative video, lots of great tips
Also no back up is needed on a lower from above on a gri gri. What you do need is a redirected brake strand. On plaquette device a back up is needed as well as a redirected brake or load strand
Excellent video
While not wrong, this setup, especially at modern (presumed bombproof) sport/bolted anchors, becomes more complex and potentially confusing than needed. If swinging leads, the belayer is never loading the system heavily, and two clove hitches, or butterflies, can be directly clipped closer to the bolts, with lockers, then an independent master point can be built off those, and a short sling with a bowline on a bight directly to either bolt, then belay biner into that loop, is commonly used to directly belay both a follower, and then the leader taking off above.
I would always start with a direct tie-in to any fixed anchor, and never rely solely on any PAS whether a Purcell, Petzl adjustable tether, etc. Especially when building trad anchors, backup tie-ins with the main rope have saved lives, after the primary system has been ripped apart in a catastrophic fall, rockfall, or other event beyond any plan. It takes practice to develop a clean, tidy system that is both solid, uncluttered, and versatile to move around, re-order the climbing positions, with minimal unclipping, reclipping, resetting belay devices, etc.
Great video! Would it be best practice once you habe your climber on belay from above to place the climber's rope on a directional above the belay device so that yhe gri gri stays facing up (in the right direction)? + if you ever need to switch to an ATC having that habit would prevent a bad situation.
this is a great video, thanks.
question: do you have a tutorial or instructions on how you set up that at-home wooden anchor thing? i would love to build myself something like that, your version seems pretty simple but i'm still not smart enough to figure it out myself heh heh
Just made a quick video about a few different options: th-cam.com/video/37AYMTms5NQ/w-d-xo.html
You could buy some magnetic anchors from Practi-bolt: www.denverclimbingcompany.com/product/practi-bolts/
Or you could buy actual climbing anchor material, and attach it to a board: www.backcountrygear.com/climbing/protection-hardware/bolts-hangers/
@@JesseUnderscoreMartin you are a saint. thank you.
Bringing up the rope prior to loading the Grigri will make it faster and easier to stack.
100%, I generally pull up all the rope. Then when I get to the climber, I drop about 5' of rope so they know they aren't on belay yet, then load Grigri and pull up the last 5'.
Great vid thanks. Can I ask whayt size sling you use for the quad? Thanks
A 240 sling at least
the two lockers on quad - not critical links, can be non-lockers. the tether... how's bout we just use the rope?
Fully agree.
One of my goals when making this video was to minimize the scope. I wanted it to be a brief, on-topic overview of what someone should expect when taken on their first multipitch route by an experienced climber.
As you mentioned, the two lockers connecting the slings to bolts are not single points of failure so they could be replaced with non-lockers to be more efficient. If I were climbing on a route that has two bolt anchors, I would typically go more efficient with just a 120cm sling, girth it to one ring, then clip the other end of the sling to the other bolt with either a locker or non-lockers, then tie a overhand to make a master point. The quad seems to be one of the first anchors that climbers learn about, and I wanted to avoid going into the topic of anchor building, and pros/cons of each in this video. I have included links to videos/articles about two and three bolt anchors in the video description.
Regarding using the rope, that is a great way to tether, and how I usually tether when going up a route. I generally just use a sling to tether when rappelling. I felt that tying the clove hitch would fit into a different video. Many single pitch climbers are already familiar with using a tether for cleaning anchors, so I decided to focus on that for this video. I included a link to a video about teethers in the video description for those who would like to learn more.
After rigging the system, should you use the bolt quickdraw as a first clipping point for the leading climber to prevent F2 fall? (Belaying with reverso)
Yes, absolutely. The fall is still going to be very close to fall factor 2. But one big advantage of clipping a draw when leading the next pitch is that if the climber falls with the anchor clipped, the belayer will be pulled up toward the clipping point. Whereas if the anchor is not clipped, the belayer will be pulled downward which would be very uncomfortable and could also affect the direction in which they need to hold the brake stand.
@@JesseUnderscoreMartinthanks for the answer, Jesse! Also I was thinking.. Wouldn’t the clipped draw’s upper carabiner be jammed/ledged against anchors carabiner below it in the case of a climber fall and thus be on the risk of breaking? Wouldn’t it be better to have one premade top locking carabiner which would hold both the left anchor sling leg and the rope together? I feel like it is a question - what is worse, ledged quickdraw or climbers rope dragging against anchor sling?
but if you fall backwards cant the momentum break your back since the waist is being held while the held and legs will go back?
Which part of the video are you referring to? Are you talking about the climber falling or the belayer?
How do I lower?
You can view this article, or search for a TH-cam video on how to lower in guide mode: www.vdiffclimbing.com/guide-mode/
screw down so you dont screw up
This is a good point
Hire a guide man!! Never lap coil if you don’t need to. Also, anyone who’s using a pas on a multipitch does not have very much experience. While these techniques and terms may work, they are not the most efficient or the best ways to do it. There are so many things that are not very good in this video.
Really?