honestly not trying to be a dick here but engine masters and Richard holdner have done intense dyno testing and found the carb makes the same power as EFI and in some case a lot more. throttle response is exactly the same. the only 1 up EFI has is being able to start it up instantly in winter. asides from that there is literally no downsides of going carbed.
Its funny because I read you comment in the morning when I was groggy and I just read it again to respond to you but now it reads different. You are right, and thats usually who I site when I'm talking about carb LSs. From an NA performance stand point, carb is def the way to go.
No one says they don't work, but for an LS sometimes the extra hassle of learning a new fueling method isnt worth the extra cost to some people. Just throwing it out there for the people who arnt sure.
@@darrinwatts9229 100% wrong. Its a lean stumble. The fix was a 38 squirter and a high flow screw. I also threw in a 50cc accel pump just for a little extra fuel. LSs like to go lean because they breath a ton at low RPM in stock form
@Tyler Spindler You'll need it to run your 8 coils. Compared to a stock 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0 with a tune, the carb will always have more power potential, but less MPG every time.
I respectfully disagree. I've found that the LS, due to its excellent head designs, responds well to carburetion. Even with single plane intakes and "radical" camshaft profiles the LS engine responds with good drivability and economy in carbed setups. EFI is nice, but not necessary to get a LS swap off the ground. Thanks for the Video.
Yes exactly. You have all valid points. The issue is that there is a much higher expense to go from a stock ls to go carbed. The next big thing is that the stock intakes for the EFI perform just as good if not better than both single plane and dual plane intakes. I love my carb set up. There is a peculiar exhaust tone when running a carb and I really like that!
I’ve had 3 different carbed LS engines and they all worked great, other than hood clearance I’ve never experienced any of the problems you described. Check out my carbed 5.3 cold start video. 👍🏻
I bracket race my junk yard 6.0 in a 67 Chevelle. I would have went with fuel injection but carbs are much more consistent. I put thousands of miles on and hundreds of passes for the last three years. I drive it 56 miles one way, race all day and drive back home it is very reliable, we race about 25 weekends a year, never ever stranded us It has a Edelbrock AVS2 that gets 20+ mpg with a 350 turbo and 3:50 gears and runs High 12's.@3800lbs. My car is a poster child for why carbs are great for LS swaps.
Exactly, i put my 4.8 together and tuned it last week. I made several passes back to back without having to touch anything 👍 its slow off the line but thats not the engines fault, its the driver
I know you're speaking in general, but I've been able to buy tons of "junk" carbs for cheap and have either used them for parts or managed to do a good rebuild on them and so far every carb I've worked on has run great minus an alcohol carb I tried to convert back to gas but the booster entry is too big so it was running way too rich
Crazy part is carburetors have been around since the first gas engine and were I production all the way into the late 80s and all of the world ran them even in negative degree weather and still got to work on time. Yet electronic fuel injection has been around all this time and it still has issues as well. I daily drove carbed cars everyday and never had a problem with the carb. Like everyone else is saying on here...if you know carburetors, they are awesome, easy, cheap, AND reliable.
The sketchiest part of a carbureted LS swap has been the ignition boxes. I've had 2 boxes go out in the last 2 years after almost 20k miles. Recently switched to the Smart Spark LS so we will see how long that one lasts
Yeah I get it, me too. If I had known about the QC issues with the MSD boxes I would have picked up the SSLS box instead. Its almost $100 more expensive but so far it runs really well. I'm going to make a how to carb your LS video for 2021 soon. Ive got one for 2019 and 2020 but this year there's gonna be a lot of changes.
I like your vids and that Daytona Sensors ignition system. One drawback to ditching the whole efi is transmission control. It's another $500-800 for a dedicated controller. But a drawback to keeping the whole efi is tuning it - either sending it somewhere or buying a tuning setup and spending the rest of your life trying to learn it.
Well don’t forget everything else you need if you don’t have it already for fuel injection. Fuel pump, fuel lines,intake,wiring harness,computer, etc. so for some it may be more expensive. Tuning fuel injection is 400 plus.
I’ve been reading a lot of comments on how people don’t have issues with carbs. But I also noticed in your video that you’re very thorough about what you may POTENTIALLY experience and give those who have little to no knowledge on how to do it properly a little insight. I found this very educational.
I had Dale Cubic at CFM Carburetion build me a custom 750 4150 carb spot on as received minor tuning was all it needed great drivability and neck snapping throttle response! not cheap but worth every dollar I paid for it! carb properly set up works great on LS engines
Exactly right. Carb manufacturers make universal carbs but in order to make them run perfect, you're gonna have to pay someone to get it dialed in for your specific engine or learn how to do it yourself
I mean no disrespect by this, but you need to learn how to adjust and really understand a carburetor... I don't want people being scared off from carbs. You can actually save money on your swap with the carburetor because you don't have to buy a complete engine, you have to buy a complete engine running fuel injection otherwise the miscellaneous fuel system pieces will nickel and dime you to death. You can save money because all you need really is a long block. Get yourself an Edelbrock carb... For an all-out race application Holly is hands-down the best choice but for a street rod or cruiser you can't beat an Edelbrock, get a good carb and a vacuum gauge and fine-tune that thing, do some research and try to really understand how to perfectly tune it, especially your secondaries I can't stress that enough. People change their minds all the time and go with fuel injection even after they've converted their LS to carb and you can pick that stuff up on eBay for cheap, you can get dual-plane intake and the MSD ignition controller for half of the retail in perfect condition. On another note be sure to get the MSD ignition controller not the Edelbrock, the MSD ignition controller is actually usable for tuning. In my opinion a 5.3 with an Edelbrock dual-plane intake and an Edelbrock 750 performer is a magical combination. Again I mean no disrespect and I wish you the best of luck with your project.
None taken. Im pretty aware of what it takes to make a carb run well. Ive messed with my holley so much and Ive finally got it dialed in. My engine doesnt like the AFR too much above 13:1. I don't use vacuum to tune, its all done on a wideband. I understand where you are coming from, I bought my engine complete, harness, ecu, fuse box, everything for $300 at the junkyard and I still went and spent $1000 more on a carb setup on top of that. The point of my video was if you want a good reliable stocker, stay stock, its cheaper and easier. If you wanna modify, thats a whole other story.
I understand where you're coming from, sadly where I live a complete 5.3 with less than 80k miles is no less than $800. I bought used and a long block with less than 50k and I'm at about $700 running like a champ. However my carb did take some time to fine tune, and I'm running stock with springs and 220/224 cam. My post was directed at people getting into carbing an LS, to carb one of these engines you really need to understand a carburetor and how they work. That's why I made sure to let you know I meant no disrespect to you and that I wasn't meaning that YOU didn't know how to tune a carb but that someone just getting into carburetors need to really do their homework. I've watched your progress in your build and in my opinion you're doing just fine 👍
I grew up tuning carbs and don't know much about injection and all the tech tuning and such but I decided to try it out and got suckered into buying some $1400.00 custom harness and pcm from a guy in texas who is no longer doing it (so what happens when something goes wrong with that setup) and have yet to use it because I just spent a little over half of that ($800.00) to use a carb on my ls engine, people talk trash about guys putting a carb on an ls until they get gapped by one😂
You are right about 1 thing and that is fuel mileage, The rest you are inexperienced on. A carb is MUCH simpler MUCH and also more dependable, A carb setup is also les money when starting from scratch.
Carbs are best. I can’t stand this computer b.s. But I grew up around K10’s, Camaro, Firebirds etc.... I installed a Carb on my LS and love it. The only thing most people don’t understand is you have to adjust the choke between seasons. Summer & Winter. Carbs are better because you done have to take it to the shop to have it tuned. You can do everything right from your garage
I hate electronic chokes lol. All my cars run a manual choke and I never have issue starting them up hot or cold. I just love playing with carbs and tweaking them as much as I can.
Once its tuned all you need to do is to ensure its clean and use the choke when its cold. Aside from that its going to be just as reliable. As far as the fuel economy, the fuel injection will be a little better if you are pinching pennies. Additionally once anything electronic fails, its a done deal. You will need new parts. A carb is a purely mechanical device. Unless you beat on it with a hammer, most issues can be fixed without replacing the carb.
You make several good points, here a huge issue that I've experienced specifically with a carbureted LS. The MSD box is the weak point of the system. In the last 10k miles Ive had to replace the MSD box twice. Standard OEM stuff is good for 100k+ miles. I'll be switching to the Smart Spark LS system soon so hopefully my main concern will be taken care of 👍
The 6014 is easily tuned, ive for a carbed 6.0 running high 11s in the quarter with a stock bottom end, with custom cam and 706 heads. Throttle responds is very quick, and I get decent gas mileage. Only thing I agree with is the expense.
I think you gotta be dedicated to be able to run a carb now a days. So few people are running carbs in LSs that if you need personal help, youll pretty much only get it online which isnt always as helpful. A lot of people get the carb set ups only to sell them again on offerup because they couldnt get it to run right. If youre dedicated and open to learn, Its an awesome setup, if not, youre gonna have a real bad time.
Your testing different carbs from the 1960, the new holly quickfuels are on a different level,adjustable secondaries, glass sight fuel bowls,better castings. Plus tuning with out having to pay a tuner, you just need to know what your doing lol
@@NightWrencher I have a 580hr quickfuel in my 5.3 97 ext cab sierra I tuned it perfectly, no bogs, starts on the first try, but it took me a long time to understand the 4150 holley. I bought two books on how to tune them. Its my daily driver, I've driven it for 25,000 miles , soon I will post another update video, im getting 340 miles to a 25 gallon tank.
The 1968 Dodge 383 in my Dakota fires up faster than the modern vehicles I interact with daily, including in the cold. NE Ohio plenty of 10F(-12C) days starting under my belt. Starts fine, warming up takes forever. But that's a symptom of a big block in cold weather. EFI is just more efficient starting up and leveling off since it richens and leans god knows how many times a second. You also NEED a spacer between the intake and carb or you'll fight vapor lock all the time. Modern gas boils at a lower temp these days. Ask me how I know lol.
Well its a misconception that EFI makes more power than a carb. Short answer is yes, because too many people mismatch or don't tune the carbs to their specific engine. Longer answer is they make the same or more power because of whats called charge cooling due to the fuel cooling the air mixture as its flowing down the runner. Watch Richard Holdener, he runs a lot of dyno engines and most of his NA builds use a carb. Cheers.
NightWrencher I might have spoken out of ignorance. Efi is crazy expensive, but it’s what all the record holders are running. I stayed up till 4 am last night and it looks like for 1/3 of the price you can make 80% of the power. And just as much power if you’re building a 400-500 whp street car for half the price. I’ve been researching the cheapest way to 5.3-5.7.... maybe 4.8 a fox body. Goal of 450 whp, streetable, under 5 grand. Shoe string budget. Efi breaks the budget. Carb makes it affordable
Carbs and efi make the same power when properly tuned. Believe me when I say that even top fuel dragsters didn't run fuel injection until recently, and even then, its not traditional fuel injection like you and I know. Check this out and get back to me th-cam.com/video/JLRaY3oAKmg/w-d-xo.html
NightWrencher pretty spot on video. I still feel efi is probably the best way to go (assuming you have the budget) but for the diy in the garage guy, yea, maybe carb is a better route
It kinda just sounds like your opinion is that you aren’t a big fan of dealing with carbureted vehicles. Which is fine. It just doesn’t mean the idea or practice of doing the carb swap is a bad idea
It is if you dont like tinkering with carbs. 😂 in all seriousness. I deal with people like that all the time. They buy the whole thing, set the idle and then get mad because it doesnt run right out of the box 🤷♂️ all my cars run carbs but its a bigger deal than one might think
I would agree going carbed is more money and going fuel injection is more reliable. Performance both tuned properly there's really no difference. A carb will go dry sitting it's just the nature of the best but an electric fuel pump will help with that and you do need to change your oil more often with a carb. When I started there was no fuel injection except for some rare vehicles you learned how to tune and an o2 sensor is a huge help tuning your primary and secondary side and when done it's very reliable for drivability. But in the end I'd go injection it's just way easier it self tunes.
Going for performance, fuel economy doesn’t matter and aftermarket intakes/TB/injector for EFI can easily cost tons more then a carb setup and the carb setup will always make more power, from a performance stand point carb all the way for a daily its not worth it unless you really like the noise cause it sounds great. As well as tuning can be just as frustrating when you start making power even EFI has to go speed density which just like a carb it changes with various conditions probably even more then carb because it includes load changes as well.
They both have their purpose. Carbs are much more difficult to tune on a wide range of conditions but if you can dial it in, you'll have bulletproof setup.
@@NightWrencher yes sir, but my favorite part about carbs NO INTERCOOLER, but i do hear the EFI sequential tuning is very very nice but once again more costly.
When you said that they can flood out and not start, did you mean like any older carb ran engine? Or the LS is more finicky? Is this where I should feel old because as a kid I had trucks and blazers that needed a specific amount of pumps before I turned the key in order to get them to start without flooding when they had manual fuel pumps?
Well yes, while Im out and about in my truck, Ive gotta keep in mind how long Ive had the engine off for. Early morning takes 2 pumps. If i do 3 itll flood. After Ive driven it to operating temp I have about 10-15mins to turn it off and turn it back on with no pumps or problems. After 15 mins I have to hold the throttle at half and crank because the fuel in the bowls evaporated and now the carb is full of fuel vapor. The LS will always start, you just need to learn how it likes to be started.
Maybe I missed it in the video but with carburetors size very much matters. I had a customer recently who has an early 3rd Gen Firebird with a 350 swap and aftermarket carb. It ran like poo so he brought it to me and within about 30 seconds I saw the problem, an 800+ cfm carb on a mildly warmed over 350. He insisted that was not the issue blah blah blah and finally I said well let's try one of mine and see what's what. And with a 600cfm deal and after cleaning up his plugs the engine was running far better with AFR'S having stated at 9.8:1 and going to 12.1:1 while st idle. A few jet swaps and a little timing and it's a whole new car. Point is there's way more to carbs than just turning the mix screws. So go back , see what you've got vs what that engine needs, and don't use those timing pills for anything other than fire up
Ok I'd like to know what you think, here are my answers to your reasons. Which way would you go? 1. Already got a manifold for $500 with msd 6014 new 2. I dont care about gas mileage, I just want to go fast 3. Tune thru msd lol 4. I hate when it doesnt start lol, I'm in Southern California. I'll go thru CSU this time 5. Not worried about space as I have a cowl hood
If you already got everything then just do it lol. I found a good solution to vaporlock is installing a 1 inch plastic/phenolic spacer in between the carb and intake really helps keeps fuel temp down after it shuts down.
@@infamousnova If you already have everything else, its cheaper to go carb first. Carbs are super cheap second hand. Holleys are super easy to rebuid but if youre gonna buy brand new, a edelbrock 600 is a good choice for a stock engine
It depends on your intended application. If you plan to stay stock, stick with fuel injection. If you plan to make a lot of mods at different times, go carburated. If you plan to go turbo, stick with fuel injection. If you plan to go all motor go carb stock LS computers put you at 250whp and a tune can get you closer to 300 with an exhaust, and thats cheaper than a carb swap.
@@mayuravirus6134 turbo carb is cool and fairly easy, but you need a blow through style carb and also AFRs are less consistant on a carb application so for turbos specifically I would stick with EFI because 1 lean cylinder could wreck your engine.
Its called the conversion kit, plus the electric fuel pump, plus the fuel pressure regulator, plus the wideband. Versus having a stock pcm tuned for a few hundred bucks
You can actually put a distributor and a carb on an Ls engine. No sensors to worry about and simplicity, price and know how is the key for something like that. I am planning in doing an Ls swap on my 90 c1500 and I will leave it fuel injection, but if parts like chip shortage and other components are not readily available that will put a stop to the project. But I agree fuel injection is way more reliable.
Anyone that knows carbs knows for sure that the LS will make more power when it's tuned right. Tuning carbs isn't rocket science but some people just can't do it.
So how did those “shims” work on that unibody XJ? Yep, unibody, which means there is not a frame. The only way to change the placement of an LS in an XJ is to change your mounts for the engine.
It is more expensive then stock efi, but I got an intake and the msd for 350 bucks slightly used and gonna reuse the good carb i already have. For me it makes sense to use a carb, throttle response tends to be better with a carb
I live in the country where they don't check emissions,just headlights,turn signals and brake lights..I was planning on getting a 98'-02' Camaro with the LS engine,then building another engine,installing it and running a carburetor..is that a problem with the stock wiring harness,sensors etc ? I know about carburetors and how to tune them.
Youll need to get the PCM tuned so that it only runs the coils and not the injectors or looks at the TPS. The harness will stay about same. Youll just need to push some wires out of the way.
I actually don't regret my decision to go carb either. I'm more of a hands on guy that likes to learn a little bit of everything. I noticed that a lot of people that I would talk to about my swap, didn't quite understand what would be involved to get it done, so I made this video to help people make an informed decision before they jump into anything.
i have a 6.0 carbed that’ll outrun efi cars all day, it’s just in the tune i guess. there’s some finicking needed and such for a nice solid setup. personally, efi for eco, and carb for hotrodding and pissing competitions🤣. cheers
Lower gas milage? Thats BS. 10 to 12 mpg is still 10 to 12 mpg. Now your foot in it is another story. But its going to go down either way. Fuel injection is not going to improve your mpg. Nor is carburetor going to lessen it. Go with a stock carb if you want better mpg. A quadajunk will get better mpg then a holley 850 double pumper. No question. But the holley will give you a lot better proforance then the stock fuel injection or carb. Compare apples to apples and oranges to oranges. The advantage of carb is getting rid if all that computer bs.
I pulled my old small block dropped the carbed 5.3. Same day. All out the box stuff. Junk yard motor. 3.73 gears th350. Got over 15k on it gettiing 14mph and a solid 300hp😃
Edelbrock carbs run better on the street... there I said it, I’ve had a 600 cfm carb on my 5.3 LS swapped IROC now I bought the 6ls controller and intake used but it runs great and with the 700r4 I get about 22mpg on the highway. Yes efi makes things more convenient so far as cold starts etc... but if you know what your doing a carbed LS (or any engine) will run just fine.
Do you think a 500cfm could run the ls fine? I love the Edelbrock asv2 I have and I'm thinking about an ls swap for the car and I want to keep the carb.
DiscardedZombie / A 500 cfm will work on a stock 4.8/5.3 but if you want to get into say a bigger cam or heads then I’d suggest a 750, because you have to remember what makes the ls so powerful, aka their heads and how much air they can flow. A stock ls head is the equivalent of a nice set of aftermarket sbc heads, and the more air an engine can ingest the more fuel it needs
Rule of thumb is put the smallest carb you can run before is starts to lose power. Even with a mild cam, a 650 should be enough. I haven't gone as small as a 500, but I have run a 600 with no issues.
I have done methanol carby on burnout car I find it cheaper with tunes If your mates car has being tuned take there tune Quick fuel 850 methanol carb Valley plate and msd was expensive But wouldn’t go back efi Efi whole lot more expensive for tunes
Do you think there's people out there who put carb intake on LS3 but then installed an EFI conversion like Terminator Stealth EFI so that you have the traditional, carburettor looks but EFI benefits?
Yeah, lol. Probably the worst thing you can do. The stock intakes produce power evenly everywhere and its cheap. Maybe for a show car itll work but for the average guy it doesnt make sense to go from free efi to $1500 efi
I see plenty of those on the forums,if you dont go port EFI,IMO your just using a high tech TBI system,GM used 35 years ago If you want EFI or port,go with GM factory and learn to tune,just like we do with a carb
I'd say all the above statements are not all the way true. I run EFI. but before EFI you had to learn to tune a carb. And I can say if you don't know what your doing with a carb. You will have the above issues. I have a 5.60 fox sbc that can start and run on any KY winter with only 3 pumps to get it started and walk away. EFI will 100% work easier to get you tuned and alot move fine fine tuning yet a perfectly tuned carb. Is only perfectly tuned on that day unless you ha e another day like it.
Well i have an ls1 and don't have an i take. So priced both ways its cheaper going with a carb. 1000 bucks gets carb, intake, and 6014 msd. Just the efi is a grand and it goes up for fuel injection and computer and harness. Your facts are opinionated at best.
Yes and no. The truck intake makes more power than the LS1 intake and you can get those complete for cheap. If you wanna go fancy, you can go LS6 intake, ID1000 injectors, walbor 255, etc. But I was talking bear bones.
Why do you think that racers aren't dropping the gen 1 platform? Because it's not made to last 300,000 miles. Distributors & carbs aren't pieces of s***! We'd like to enjoy the benefits, without BS.
So its a double pumper carb on a small block. Is it a stock 5.3? I would think running something a little less aggressive would help with the tuning, and the fuel mileage. I've never carb swapped an LS, just basing my thoughts on past experience with old carbureted pickups.
I agree, I've gotten the best results out of vacuum secondary carbs. Double pumpers are nice because you don't need to wait for the secondaries to ooen, but sometimes you dont need all of the throttle either.
@@NightWrencher I dont have a ton of experience, but ive owned a bunch of old pickups. I replaced a couple stock double pumpers with an edelbrock 600, though, and the trucks came right to life. And I only did that back then because someone recommended it, telling me that a big carb like that was just too much, where the motor was basically stock. Would a big two barrel work?
A 500 2 barrel and a 500 4 barrel at two very differnt thing. A 4 barrel version of the 2 barrel would be 1000cfm and a 2 barrel version of the 4 barrel would be 250cfm. A small 4 barrel will always run way better than any 2 barrel because of fuel distribution. Vac sec. Carbs run better because you dont choke the engine with too much air all at once and produces more torque than the same size double pumper
@@NightWrencher okay. I actually started looking into this because of a project I have. Its a 97 chevy 2500 with a 454, and I was hoping I'd be able to convert that to carbureted, but I've read that the first couple years of the vortec had their own set of issues, too.
Matt. The 750 double pumper will run fine on a 5.3. It’s all in the tune. You just gotta know what your doing. What you don’t want to do is run a smaller cfm carb on a motor. And if your going 454 I would go for a 1000 cfm and you’ll have lil wiggle room to do upgrades on a 454
Well what do you expect, you're running and ancient carburetor and a small one at that. Get with the times and see all the new performances carbs available. Lol
My AFRs are spot on, so fuel delivery is not an issue. Going too big will cause me to lose torque in the lower RPMs which is no good for my truck if I want to tow with it. I would go with a slightly larger carb but change over to annular boosters and see where we are at after that. But next on my list is a cam!
@@NightWrencher all I'm saying is an LS engine loves a carburetor application. At least mine does anyway. Street or track it performs as well as any efi I've ever ran. Like stated before, if you know how to tune a carb, they are great. As with anything , newer carbs have more functionality and tuning advancements that a 1980 carb would have. Try a new one and and then do another video on that carb.
@@chadbbcmustang3319 I agree with you 100%. I have a 625 demon that flows more air than my 650. I might throw it on, tune it to my LS and make a few more runs to see the changes.
My ls runs harder with the 830hp Holley smf the trick flow manifold than it ever did with the injection. Like the comment before me says you just have to know what you’re doing
Dude you actually need to read and research. 1 thing is more electrical draw equals less horsepower it's more strain on your engine your alternator has to work harder cos it's a bigger circuit. Like injectors ect ect . You want a RELIABLE carb you need to get a quadrajet factory gm carb people rag them alot but when they're brand new and it takes years for them to need a rebuild. I ran one on my Camaro and never once had to tune it . When it comes out of adjustment it's time for a rebuild. People drove carbed cars for years as daily's. Theres a reason carb was the way of like all the way to 87. You gott weigh your options reliability/ hp. Do your research get a quadrajet and give it another try
Electrical draw is minimal on an efi engine. Especially one that has enough torque to power through. Almost no one runs quadrajets or even edlebrocks on the LS because you can't tune them like you can a holley. Once you start modifying, all bets are off and you need to start working on your AFR to keep it in check. Check out the Carb LS Swap facebook page and see what everyone else is running. Cheers.
I bet a q jet would run one just fine w no issues idc what everyone else is doing its because most people are not familiar w them and think they are well quadra junk this they are not and will outperform and be more streetable than any holley plus will work on any engine from a lil old 283 to a big block 454 yep same carb try that w a holley I never liked any squarebore carbs ever never had any luck w them tried everything jet changing till I was blue in the face and put my good old q jet back on and well never looked back used that very same carb on many motors w out a hickup big and small
Q-Jets are one of the most popular carbs on almost all GM engines right next to the Carter AVS/ edelbrock. Damn near bullet proof carbs on most stock engines. Even a stock LS only needs about 500CFM to max out its power output.
im using a quadrajet on my stock 5.3 for fuel economy. Performer RPM , comp cam, 180* fabbed headers, 1981 camaro TH350 3.00:1 posi 10 bolt. 4500 tight nitrous convertor. Still a work in progress wish iknew about wires and junk. going to swap in a big crank does anyone know if a stock 5.3 can fit a 4.250" with some minor grinding of block?
Quadrajet for mpg, but everything else is high performance lol. Is there a reason you arn't upgrading to a 6.0 block instead if youre going to build it up anyway?
For an NA build I think the 6.0 is the way to go. Richard Holdener did a comparison with a 5.3 and 6.0 and found that hp and tq were directly affected by displacement and the 6.0 always made more power with the same mods. I know the 6.0s are more expensive, b7t if you're going to rework your 5.3 anyway it might be worth it, idk.
@@NightWrencher Yes thank you for the advice , and for everyone out there it is the best way to go. I just like the smaller bore size with a long stroke, however ijust found out ishould stick with only 4" stroke. to make a 383. its going to 3.905" bore and 4" stroke. thanks for the respond i'm learning alot from everyone, and ihaven't started the build yet, so icould end up with a 6.0L GEN IV. also anyone out there doing a 5.3, understand you need to rebuild that thing with GEN IV rods or your gen III rods are going to blow with any amount of cam and or compression. i'm looking at cams and want to use the summit high lift cam specs are 209/217 @ .050" and .550"/ .550" lift respectively. its a real stout tiny cam with alot of lift versus duration.
@@NightWrencher The quadrajet can deliver both performance and mpg, it uses metering rods and vacuum for the secondaries so it flows what it needs but cruises only on the primaries so delivers best of both worlds. Setup properly they are great.
I've seen the back to back runs on richard holdeners channel and a carb does have a marginal advantage up top but in an LS specifically, the stock intake designs are so good that none of the carb intakes can beat out the stock truck or TBSS intake numbers. But power production is only part of the puzzle. Driveability and mpg take a small hit as well so it all depends on what you want to use it for.
@@NightWrencher oh without a doubt. I meant just in general with a lot of applications wasn't pointing LS specific. I have a 4.8 myself I plan to keep the stock truck intake because of that too so I know what you mean there haha. It's just interesting to see an old school set up out perform a lot of new stuff too. Some guys still make big power carb swapping an LS but I still agree the factory intakes are what's best on them. GM did a good job on them for sure.
@@kenparsons4132 it's all about what camshaft is in it lol if ur intake is set up to make all of its power from 2500-6000 then ur cam should have a power band range from2500-6000 so u can get the most power out of your ls and there's a better intake that makes more power then the stock one with a stock cam it's make by Holly they look similar one just says lsx and is gray and black
Done 3 recently . 2 using 6014 with timing tweak Holley dual plane and Holley 600cfm street carb. Both run Awesome. Did one with single plane victor and edelbrock 750 and 6010 box #3 pill has off idle flat spot but RIPS!!!
Carburetor more Hp also it cost more to swap a fuel injected LS than a carb …. More wiring , ECM , fuel pump ETC .. put a intake and carb on it slow it in just like a 70 model 350 … and tuning ? On a carb ? = screwdriver and a hood hearing 😂😂😂😂
my carb set up; used 750 holley, used edlebrock 7118, and microsquirt (Running spark only) was less than hp-tuners. (600$) carbs can achieve nearly the same mpg and power as fuel injection with tuning. (it is a lot harder than tuning a fuel map tho) i have daily driven tons of carbed trucks/cars in negative Michigan weather. never had a problem. when i was debating going fuel injection vs carbed, i saved money going to a carb set up. i even built a spread sheet lol
I played around with the idea of going microsquirt but going with an ignition box was only a little more and it could do more things so that what I ended up doing.
![The Wall Song ร้องข้ามกำแพง | EP.213 | กรีน อัษฎาพร | 3 ต.ค. 67 [1/5]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3KrlLbCsadI/mqdefault.jpg)
honestly not trying to be a dick here but engine masters and Richard holdner have done intense dyno testing and found the carb makes the same power as EFI and in some case a lot more. throttle response is exactly the same. the only 1 up EFI has is being able to start it up instantly in winter. asides from that there is literally no downsides of going carbed.
Its funny because I read you comment in the morning when I was groggy and I just read it again to respond to you but now it reads different. You are right, and thats usually who I site when I'm talking about carb LSs. From an NA performance stand point, carb is def the way to go.
fuel consumption,tuning for every weather condition,carbs only win above 4500 rpm everywere else they are worse tbh
@@trillrifaxegrindor4411 stfu you don't know what your doing.
Rev limiter is cool
@@wraithmedaberry5795 Rev limiters are there for people who don't know their engine. 2ndly literally no power band @ valve float no reason for it.
Carbs work you just need to know what your doing
No one says they don't work, but for an LS sometimes the extra hassle of learning a new fueling method isnt worth the extra cost to some people. Just throwing it out there for the people who arnt sure.
I agree if anything its the best combination, no distributor to mess with.
Accelerator pump arm is giving it to much fuel. Easy fix in the world. But if you know what you are doing it's easy. Guess you need to learn more
@@darrinwatts9229 100% wrong. Its a lean stumble. The fix was a 38 squirter and a high flow screw. I also threw in a 50cc accel pump just for a little extra fuel. LSs like to go lean because they breath a ton at low RPM in stock form
@Tyler Spindler You'll need it to run your 8 coils. Compared to a stock 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0 with a tune, the carb will always have more power potential, but less MPG every time.
I have a whole lot more reasons why I wouldn’t run fuel injection
Thats for another video :)
I'd like to hear that
Don’t worry, I can’t afford fuel injection either
I’m running a carb swap 5.3 and have no issues
@Morning star Garage a carb on an ls doesnt look old school,it looks like an abomination
Sounds like your just inexperienced when it comes to carburetors
That could be it too!
I respectfully disagree. I've found that the LS, due to its excellent head designs, responds well to carburetion. Even with single plane intakes and "radical" camshaft profiles the LS engine responds with good drivability and economy in carbed setups. EFI is nice, but not necessary to get a LS swap off the ground. Thanks for the Video.
Yes exactly. You have all valid points. The issue is that there is a much higher expense to go from a stock ls to go carbed. The next big thing is that the stock intakes for the EFI perform just as good if not better than both single plane and dual plane intakes. I love my carb set up. There is a peculiar exhaust tone when running a carb and I really like that!
To be fair, I feel like the guys putting carbs on LS’s are the type of guys that know their way around carburetors.
You would think that but its usually not 😂 I get so many questions in my other carb LS videos, its crazy
I’ve had 3 different carbed LS engines and they all worked great, other than hood clearance I’ve never experienced any of the problems you described. Check out my carbed 5.3 cold start video. 👍🏻
Will do!
I give my Edelbrock 1406 two pumps on the gas peddle and it cold starts every time. Carbs are reliable as long as you know what you are doing.
I bracket race my junk yard 6.0 in a 67 Chevelle. I would have went with fuel injection but carbs are much more consistent. I put thousands of miles on and hundreds of passes for the last three years. I drive it 56 miles one way, race all day and drive back home it is very reliable, we race about 25 weekends a year, never ever stranded us It has a Edelbrock AVS2 that gets 20+ mpg with a 350 turbo and 3:50 gears and runs High 12's.@3800lbs. My car is a poster child for why carbs are great for LS swaps.
Exactly, i put my 4.8 together and tuned it last week. I made several passes back to back without having to touch anything 👍 its slow off the line but thats not the engines fault, its the driver
When you have a junk carburetor. And start swaping out parts from other old junk carbs. You can expect junk results.
I know you're speaking in general, but I've been able to buy tons of "junk" carbs for cheap and have either used them for parts or managed to do a good rebuild on them and so far every carb I've worked on has run great minus an alcohol carb I tried to convert back to gas but the booster entry is too big so it was running way too rich
Ive been running a carbed ls1 in my patrol for years! Daily driven and she fires up fine and runs perfectly! Never had a day's trouble with it!
Crazy part is carburetors have been around since the first gas engine and were I production all the way into the late 80s and all of the world ran them even in negative degree weather and still got to work on time. Yet electronic fuel injection has been around all this time and it still has issues as well. I daily drove carbed cars everyday and never had a problem with the carb. Like everyone else is saying on here...if you know carburetors, they are awesome, easy, cheap, AND reliable.
The sketchiest part of a carbureted LS swap has been the ignition boxes. I've had 2 boxes go out in the last 2 years after almost 20k miles. Recently switched to the Smart Spark LS so we will see how long that one lasts
@@NightWrencher I've heard the boxes go out. I really want to try a carbed ls but worried about the box taking a crap...
Yeah I get it, me too. If I had known about the QC issues with the MSD boxes I would have picked up the SSLS box instead. Its almost $100 more expensive but so far it runs really well. I'm going to make a how to carb your LS video for 2021 soon. Ive got one for 2019 and 2020 but this year there's gonna be a lot of changes.
I like your vids and that Daytona Sensors ignition system. One drawback to ditching the whole efi is transmission control. It's another $500-800 for a dedicated controller. But a drawback to keeping the whole efi is tuning it - either sending it somewhere or buying a tuning setup and spending the rest of your life trying to learn it.
It depends on where you want to spend your money for sure but you still have solid transmission options with a carb
Well don’t forget everything else you need if you don’t have it already for fuel injection. Fuel pump, fuel lines,intake,wiring harness,computer, etc. so for some it may be more expensive. Tuning fuel injection is 400 plus.
I’ve been reading a lot of comments on how people don’t have issues with carbs. But I also noticed in your video that you’re very thorough about what you may POTENTIALLY experience and give those who have little to no knowledge on how to do it properly a little insight. I found this very educational.
Thank you! That was exactly the point of the video 👍
Carb is the way to go my man
It is for me :)
Thank you brother
Thank you brother
Thank you brother
And with my Electric choke it starts no problem in the cold weather I am in Canada
Yeah; it's not like back in the 60s you couldn't drive a car in Alberta.
I had Dale Cubic at CFM Carburetion build me a custom 750 4150 carb spot on as received minor tuning was all it needed great drivability and neck snapping throttle response! not cheap but worth every dollar I paid for it! carb properly set up works great on LS engines
Exactly right. Carb manufacturers make universal carbs but in order to make them run perfect, you're gonna have to pay someone to get it dialed in for your specific engine or learn how to do it yourself
I mean no disrespect by this, but you need to learn how to adjust and really understand a carburetor... I don't want people being scared off from carbs. You can actually save money on your swap with the carburetor because you don't have to buy a complete engine, you have to buy a complete engine running fuel injection otherwise the miscellaneous fuel system pieces will nickel and dime you to death. You can save money because all you need really is a long block. Get yourself an Edelbrock carb... For an all-out race application Holly is hands-down the best choice but for a street rod or cruiser you can't beat an Edelbrock, get a good carb and a vacuum gauge and fine-tune that thing, do some research and try to really understand how to perfectly tune it, especially your secondaries I can't stress that enough. People change their minds all the time and go with fuel injection even after they've converted their LS to carb and you can pick that stuff up on eBay for cheap, you can get dual-plane intake and the MSD ignition controller for half of the retail in perfect condition. On another note be sure to get the MSD ignition controller not the Edelbrock, the MSD ignition controller is actually usable for tuning. In my opinion a 5.3 with an Edelbrock dual-plane intake and an Edelbrock 750 performer is a magical combination. Again I mean no disrespect and I wish you the best of luck with your project.
None taken. Im pretty aware of what it takes to make a carb run well. Ive messed with my holley so much and Ive finally got it dialed in. My engine doesnt like the AFR too much above 13:1. I don't use vacuum to tune, its all done on a wideband. I understand where you are coming from, I bought my engine complete, harness, ecu, fuse box, everything for $300 at the junkyard and I still went and spent $1000 more on a carb setup on top of that. The point of my video was if you want a good reliable stocker, stay stock, its cheaper and easier. If you wanna modify, thats a whole other story.
I understand where you're coming from, sadly where I live a complete 5.3 with less than 80k miles is no less than $800. I bought used and a long block with less than 50k and I'm at about $700 running like a champ. However my carb did take some time to fine tune, and I'm running stock with springs and 220/224 cam. My post was directed at people getting into carbing an LS, to carb one of these engines you really need to understand a carburetor and how they work. That's why I made sure to let you know I meant no disrespect to you and that I wasn't meaning that YOU didn't know how to tune a carb but that someone just getting into carburetors need to really do their homework. I've watched your progress in your build and in my opinion you're doing just fine 👍
I totally get it, thank you!
Best damn reply
I grew up tuning carbs and don't know much about injection and all the tech tuning and such but I decided to try it out and got suckered into buying some $1400.00 custom harness and pcm from a guy in texas who is no longer doing it (so what happens when something goes wrong with that setup) and have yet to use it because I just spent a little over half of that ($800.00) to use a carb on my ls engine, people talk trash about guys putting a carb on an ls until they get gapped by one😂
I used twoto have efi on my car it got 20 mpg with a carburetor get 28 to 30 mpg
i dont think so
@@trillrifaxegrindor4411 What's he running a one barrel carb?😁
AC Delco injectors for an LQ4 as of today on rock auto… $188/ea… $1504 for a set of six. Lol carb set up is looking sweeter every day. 😂
Just pocket them at the junkyard, what do you mean? 🤣 jk, I have a video you might like coming out tomorrow at 9am PST. 👍
You are right about 1 thing and that is fuel mileage, The rest you are inexperienced on. A carb is MUCH simpler MUCH and also more dependable, A carb setup is also les money when starting from scratch.
Me who always tinker and play with any type of carb: I would do that in a heart beat
I had never really worked on carburetors until I carb swapped my LS lol
Carbs are best. I can’t stand this computer b.s. But I grew up around K10’s, Camaro, Firebirds etc.... I installed a Carb on my LS and love it. The only thing most people don’t understand is you have to adjust the choke between seasons. Summer & Winter.
Carbs are better because you done have to take it to the shop to have it tuned. You can do everything right from your garage
I hate electronic chokes lol. All my cars run a manual choke and I never have issue starting them up hot or cold. I just love playing with carbs and tweaking them as much as I can.
I feel the exact same way.
Once its tuned all you need to do is to ensure its clean and use the choke when its cold. Aside from that its going to be just as reliable. As far as the fuel economy, the fuel injection will be a little better if you are pinching pennies. Additionally once anything electronic fails, its a done deal. You will need new parts. A carb is a purely mechanical device. Unless you beat on it with a hammer, most issues can be fixed without replacing the carb.
You make several good points, here a huge issue that I've experienced specifically with a carbureted LS. The MSD box is the weak point of the system. In the last 10k miles Ive had to replace the MSD box twice. Standard OEM stuff is good for 100k+ miles. I'll be switching to the Smart Spark LS system soon so hopefully my main concern will be taken care of 👍
@@NightWrencher get it as far away from heat as humanly possible
The 6014 is easily tuned, ive for a carbed 6.0 running high 11s in the quarter with a stock bottom end, with custom cam and 706 heads. Throttle responds is very quick, and I get decent gas mileage. Only thing I agree with is the expense.
I think you gotta be dedicated to be able to run a carb now a days. So few people are running carbs in LSs that if you need personal help, youll pretty much only get it online which isnt always as helpful. A lot of people get the carb set ups only to sell them again on offerup because they couldnt get it to run right. If youre dedicated and open to learn, Its an awesome setup, if not, youre gonna have a real bad time.
What expense?
Typically carb swaps cost over twice as much as regular EFI swaps because the EFI stuff is free when you buy the engine usually
Looking at that bench I think you should stay with the carburetor
Aint that the truth 😂
Your testing different carbs from the 1960, the new holly quickfuels are on a different level,adjustable secondaries, glass sight fuel bowls,better castings. Plus tuning with out having to pay a tuner, you just need to know what your doing lol
Totally agree! Ill be posting a new video debating this video!
I have a new aluminum 750 vac sec chilling in a box, maybe Ill pull it out to do some testing!
@@NightWrencher I have a 580hr quickfuel in my 5.3 97 ext cab sierra I tuned it perfectly, no bogs, starts on the first try, but it took me a long time to understand the 4150 holley. I bought two books on how to tune them. Its my daily driver, I've driven it for 25,000 miles , soon I will post another update video, im getting 340 miles to a 25 gallon tank.
Use a mechanical secondary, not a vacuum.
You're right I screwed up on my LS don't know why but my engine does not want to turn off or accelerate with the wires disconnected
I had a carb lsx 5.3 I drove to Orlando from Miami an back the same day an never had an issue
Ive got 15k miles on mine and aside from dead MSD boxes I havnt had any issues
Hey I wanna do the same with a 5.3. I'm weighting options. What went into the carb swap?
@@TheNightrunner666 th-cam.com/video/a688pn_seUo/w-d-xo.html
All we run is a carburetor on our LS derby car engines, works great
Thats great to hear!
Another carbed LS owner, works great.
The 1968 Dodge 383 in my Dakota fires up faster than the modern vehicles I interact with daily, including in the cold. NE Ohio plenty of 10F(-12C) days starting under my belt. Starts fine, warming up takes forever. But that's a symptom of a big block in cold weather. EFI is just more efficient starting up and leveling off since it richens and leans god knows how many times a second. You also NEED a spacer between the intake and carb or you'll fight vapor lock all the time. Modern gas boils at a lower temp these days. Ask me how I know lol.
Lol I have a 2 inch spacer on my LS and a 1 inch spacer on our 318 duster, 383 charger and 360 w200
Why would anyone downgrade their engine?
Efi is the way to go. More power, easier to tune, more power, better mpg, more power
Well its a misconception that EFI makes more power than a carb. Short answer is yes, because too many people mismatch or don't tune the carbs to their specific engine. Longer answer is they make the same or more power because of whats called charge cooling due to the fuel cooling the air mixture as its flowing down the runner. Watch Richard Holdener, he runs a lot of dyno engines and most of his NA builds use a carb. Cheers.
NightWrencher I might have spoken out of ignorance. Efi is crazy expensive, but it’s what all the record holders are running. I stayed up till 4 am last night and it looks like for 1/3 of the price you can make 80% of the power. And just as much power if you’re building a 400-500 whp street car for half the price.
I’ve been researching the cheapest way to 5.3-5.7.... maybe 4.8 a fox body. Goal of 450 whp, streetable, under 5 grand. Shoe string budget. Efi breaks the budget. Carb makes it affordable
Carbs and efi make the same power when properly tuned. Believe me when I say that even top fuel dragsters didn't run fuel injection until recently, and even then, its not traditional fuel injection like you and I know. Check this out and get back to me
th-cam.com/video/JLRaY3oAKmg/w-d-xo.html
NightWrencher pretty spot on video. I still feel efi is probably the best way to go (assuming you have the budget) but for the diy in the garage guy, yea, maybe carb is a better route
personal build examples? tell/show me what you have personally done and the result,not what you looked at on youtube
It kinda just sounds like your opinion is that you aren’t a big fan of dealing with carbureted vehicles. Which is fine. It just doesn’t mean the idea or practice of doing the carb swap is a bad idea
It is if you dont like tinkering with carbs. 😂 in all seriousness. I deal with people like that all the time. They buy the whole thing, set the idle and then get mad because it doesnt run right out of the box 🤷♂️ all my cars run carbs but its a bigger deal than one might think
Sweet love your stuff appreciate it young man ......I subbed keep em coming eating up this info 👍
Theres a lot more to come no worries! Thank you!
I would agree going carbed is more money and going fuel injection is more reliable. Performance both tuned properly there's really no difference. A carb will go dry sitting it's just the nature of the best but an electric fuel pump will help with that and you do need to change your oil more often with a carb. When I started there was no fuel injection except for some rare vehicles you learned how to tune and an o2 sensor is a huge help tuning your primary and secondary side and when done it's very reliable for drivability. But in the end I'd go injection it's just way easier it self tunes.
@@SOLDOZER I'm having a hard time believing it's the dumbest thing you've ever heard. Do you actually listen to the words that come out of your mouth?
Going for performance, fuel economy doesn’t matter and aftermarket intakes/TB/injector for EFI can easily cost tons more then a carb setup and the carb setup will always make more power, from a performance stand point carb all the way for a daily its not worth it unless you really like the noise cause it sounds great. As well as tuning can be just as frustrating when you start making power even EFI has to go speed density which just like a carb it changes with various conditions probably even more then carb because it includes load changes as well.
They both have their purpose. Carbs are much more difficult to tune on a wide range of conditions but if you can dial it in, you'll have bulletproof setup.
@@NightWrencher yes sir, but my favorite part about carbs NO INTERCOOLER, but i do hear the EFI sequential tuning is very very nice but once again more costly.
It wouldnt hurt to add one on a street car though 👍
The 5.3 is legal in dirt racing now and they say they are badass little motors
Thats pretty crazy! Yeah I can imagine they would tear it up
Summit racing has an LS carb swap kit that comes with the MSD ignition controller and the intake for $800 would just need to get the carb
So $1000 total right?
When you said that they can flood out and not start, did you mean like any older carb ran engine? Or the LS is more finicky? Is this where I should feel old because as a kid I had trucks and blazers that needed a specific amount of pumps before I turned the key in order to get them to start without flooding when they had manual fuel pumps?
Well yes, while Im out and about in my truck, Ive gotta keep in mind how long Ive had the engine off for. Early morning takes 2 pumps. If i do 3 itll flood. After Ive driven it to operating temp I have about 10-15mins to turn it off and turn it back on with no pumps or problems. After 15 mins I have to hold the throttle at half and crank because the fuel in the bowls evaporated and now the carb is full of fuel vapor. The LS will always start, you just need to learn how it likes to be started.
Maybe I missed it in the video but with carburetors size very much matters. I had a customer recently who has an early 3rd Gen Firebird with a 350 swap and aftermarket carb. It ran like poo so he brought it to me and within about 30 seconds I saw the problem, an 800+ cfm carb on a mildly warmed over 350. He insisted that was not the issue blah blah blah and finally I said well let's try one of mine and see what's what. And with a 600cfm deal and after cleaning up his plugs the engine was running far better with AFR'S having stated at 9.8:1 and going to 12.1:1 while st idle. A few jet swaps and a little timing and it's a whole new car. Point is there's way more to carbs than just turning the mix screws. So go back , see what you've got vs what that engine needs, and don't use those timing pills for anything other than fire up
Ok I'd like to know what you think, here are my answers to your reasons. Which way would you go?
1. Already got a manifold for $500 with msd 6014 new
2. I dont care about gas mileage, I just want to go fast
3. Tune thru msd lol
4. I hate when it doesnt start lol, I'm in Southern California. I'll go thru CSU this time
5. Not worried about space as I have a cowl hood
If you already got everything then just do it lol. I found a good solution to vaporlock is installing a 1 inch plastic/phenolic spacer in between the carb and intake really helps keeps fuel temp down after it shuts down.
@@NightWrencher ok I'll apply that. I dont have the carb yet tho. So I was considering the sniper unit but I'll go carb instead
@@infamousnova If you already have everything else, its cheaper to go carb first. Carbs are super cheap second hand. Holleys are super easy to rebuid but if youre gonna buy brand new, a edelbrock 600 is a good choice for a stock engine
@@NightWrencher im gonna go fuel injected. My super victor intake and Msd box is for sale. Both brand new
@@infamousnova i think thats a good move too! Its really hard to beat stock EFI.
Your opinion on what’s working for you..
Carb ls unlock all power no computer govs
It depends on your intended application. If you plan to stay stock, stick with fuel injection. If you plan to make a lot of mods at different times, go carburated. If you plan to go turbo, stick with fuel injection. If you plan to go all motor go carb stock LS computers put you at 250whp and a tune can get you closer to 300 with an exhaust, and thats cheaper than a carb swap.
@@NightWrencher I'll say carbureted turbo would be cool
@@mayuravirus6134 turbo carb is cool and fairly easy, but you need a blow through style carb and also AFRs are less consistant on a carb application so for turbos specifically I would stick with EFI because 1 lean cylinder could wreck your engine.
@@mayuravirus6134 tricky,hard to tune,random issues
It’s called get the conversion kit, it’s only around 700
Its called the conversion kit, plus the electric fuel pump, plus the fuel pressure regulator, plus the wideband. Versus having a stock pcm tuned for a few hundred bucks
You can actually put a distributor and a carb on an Ls engine. No sensors to worry about and simplicity, price and know how is the key for something like that. I am planning in doing an Ls swap on my 90 c1500 and I will leave it fuel injection, but if parts like chip shortage and other components are not readily available that will put a stop to the project. But I agree fuel injection is way more reliable.
No distributor
You can PUT a distributor on an ls. It's not hard. Not cheap either but it's doable
I was totally against efi but after swapping my gbody efi I will never go back to ancient carbs!
It does tend to happen sometimes. unless they go sniper and 1 injector dies so you have to replace the whole unit. then its no fun after that.
Paying some to tune so it doesn't blow cost almost $1,000 by itself plus everything else to make it run.
Anyone that knows carbs knows for sure that the LS will make more power when it's tuned right. Tuning carbs isn't rocket science but some people just can't do it.
So how did those “shims” work on that unibody XJ? Yep, unibody, which means there is not a frame. The only way to change the placement of an LS in an XJ is to change your mounts for the engine.
This video was good for a laugh not sure if the guy was trying to make a joke video or if he just doesn't know the truth of carburetor
It is more expensive then stock efi, but I got an intake and the msd for 350 bucks slightly used and gonna reuse the good carb i already have. For me it makes sense to use a carb, throttle response tends to be better with a carb
By time you buy a stand alone harness, bigger injectors, a way to tune it like hp tuners. Your not saving anything over a carb setup.
I live in the country where they don't check emissions,just headlights,turn signals and brake lights..I was planning on getting a 98'-02' Camaro with the LS engine,then building another engine,installing it and running a carburetor..is that a problem with the stock wiring harness,sensors etc ? I know about carburetors and how to tune them.
Youll need to get the PCM tuned so that it only runs the coils and not the injectors or looks at the TPS. The harness will stay about same. Youll just need to push some wires out of the way.
I plan on running a dual seat and needle 4150 carb on a l33
Nice, like a 650?
I'm getting my 350 ready for holly sniper EFI
Have a buddy with a carb ls he has no problems I’m doing a gen 3 hemi carb myself
I actually don't regret my decision to go carb either. I'm more of a hands on guy that likes to learn a little bit of everything. I noticed that a lot of people that I would talk to about my swap, didn't quite understand what would be involved to get it done, so I made this video to help people make an informed decision before they jump into anything.
Nice and yeah with carb it’s less bs and wires to makes it look cleaner as well
Definatly agree with that
i have a 6.0 carbed that’ll outrun efi cars all day, it’s just in the tune i guess. there’s some finicking needed and such for a nice solid setup. personally, efi for eco, and carb for hotrodding and pissing competitions🤣. cheers
Should have run an edelbrock way easier to tune
and shittier,and makes less power
Lower gas milage?
Thats BS.
10 to 12 mpg is still 10 to 12 mpg.
Now your foot in it is another story. But its going to go down either way.
Fuel injection is not going to improve your mpg. Nor is carburetor going to lessen it.
Go with a stock carb if you want better mpg.
A quadajunk will get better mpg then a holley 850 double pumper. No question.
But the holley will give you a lot better proforance then the stock fuel injection or carb.
Compare apples to apples and oranges to oranges.
The advantage of carb is getting rid if all that computer bs.
Carbs to ls is like chocolate to peanut butter. They work!!
They take a little bit to get going, but they do indeed work!
I pulled my old small block dropped the carbed 5.3. Same day. All out the box stuff. Junk yard motor. 3.73 gears th350. Got over 15k on it gettiing 14mph and a solid 300hp😃
@@scottesguerra5301 not bad! Ill be dynoing mine pretty soon to get some good numbers. What carb are you using?
Edelbrock carbs run better on the street... there I said it, I’ve had a 600 cfm carb on my 5.3 LS swapped IROC now I bought the 6ls controller and intake used but it runs great and with the 700r4 I get about 22mpg on the highway. Yes efi makes things more convenient so far as cold starts etc... but if you know what your doing a carbed LS (or any engine) will run just fine.
Do you think a 500cfm could run the ls fine? I love the Edelbrock asv2 I have and I'm thinking about an ls swap for the car and I want to keep the carb.
DiscardedZombie /
A 500 cfm will work on a stock 4.8/5.3 but if you want to get into say a bigger cam or heads then I’d suggest a 750, because you have to remember what makes the ls so powerful, aka their heads and how much air they can flow. A stock ls head is the equivalent of a nice set of aftermarket sbc heads, and the more air an engine can ingest the more fuel it needs
Rule of thumb is put the smallest carb you can run before is starts to lose power. Even with a mild cam, a 650 should be enough. I haven't gone as small as a 500, but I have run a 600 with no issues.
I have done methanol carby on burnout car
I find it cheaper with tunes
If your mates car has being tuned take there tune
Quick fuel 850 methanol carb
Valley plate and msd was expensive
But wouldn’t go back efi
Efi whole lot more expensive for tunes
Where are the videos of the Cherokee swap????? That’s what I’m working on would and could use some info on the swap
Im waiting for my brother in law to send me the funds to start buying parts! He wants to keep is aw4 4wd trans so we will be using an adapter plate.
Why didn't you just go with the sniper EFI
It's called old school the only way to learn
Far from the only way 😂 But yeah I know what you mean.
Do you think there's people out there who put carb intake on LS3 but then installed an EFI conversion like Terminator Stealth EFI so that you have the traditional, carburettor looks but EFI benefits?
Yeah, lol. Probably the worst thing you can do. The stock intakes produce power evenly everywhere and its cheap. Maybe for a show car itll work but for the average guy it doesnt make sense to go from free efi to $1500 efi
I see plenty of those on the forums,if you dont go port EFI,IMO your just using a high tech TBI system,GM used 35 years ago If you want EFI or port,go with GM factory and learn to tune,just like we do with a carb
@@John-ze4qy What is a TBI system you're talking about? The only TBI I could find is Traumatic Brain Injury.
lol.. i think he needs more seat time with a carb.. they worked just fine with a choke in the winter for many decades
Lol Mine runs just fine in the winter with no choke. Idk what is it about most people but they cant seem to get their chokes set up to run correctly.
I'd say all the above statements are not all the way true. I run EFI. but before EFI you had to learn to tune a carb. And I can say if you don't know what your doing with a carb. You will have the above issues. I have a 5.60 fox sbc that can start and run on any KY winter with only 3 pumps to get it started and walk away. EFI will 100% work easier to get you tuned and alot move fine fine tuning yet a perfectly tuned carb. Is only perfectly tuned on that day unless you ha e another day like it.
And carbs have been around how long???
Hey man big fan I'm doing that swap on a cl5 1975 so not a good idea
Its a good idea if you really know what youre getting yourself into
Well i have an ls1 and don't have an i take. So priced both ways its cheaper going with a carb. 1000 bucks gets carb, intake, and 6014 msd. Just the efi is a grand and it goes up for fuel injection and computer and harness. Your facts are opinionated at best.
Yes and no. The truck intake makes more power than the LS1 intake and you can get those complete for cheap. If you wanna go fancy, you can go LS6 intake, ID1000 injectors, walbor 255, etc. But I was talking bear bones.
Why do you think that racers aren't dropping the gen 1 platform? Because it's not made to last 300,000 miles. Distributors & carbs aren't pieces of s***! We'd like to enjoy the benefits, without BS.
Carbs getting 2-4 better mpg you got that backwards
I dont think I understand. Are you saying carbs get better mpg than EFI?
title should read 5 reasons why i shouldn't have carbed my ls
4777 650 holley works great for this!
What are you using to control spark? I don’t have oem ecm, and want to build an LS for a project
Currently using the Smart Spark LS by daytona sensors 👍
Thanks Fil, I'm glad its working out for you. Thanks for being a long time sub 👍
Same here 👍
Up next week how to play VHS, or beta tapes in Blu-ray player
I just might ;)
that's one gangster fly lol
Sound like you don’t know what your doing carb better don’t really have to worry about car catching fire
I rather plug my laptop, click up/down hit save and done :)
So its a double pumper carb on a small block. Is it a stock 5.3? I would think running something a little less aggressive would help with the tuning, and the fuel mileage. I've never carb swapped an LS, just basing my thoughts on past experience with old carbureted pickups.
I agree, I've gotten the best results out of vacuum secondary carbs. Double pumpers are nice because you don't need to wait for the secondaries to ooen, but sometimes you dont need all of the throttle either.
@@NightWrencher I dont have a ton of experience, but ive owned a bunch of old pickups. I replaced a couple stock double pumpers with an edelbrock 600, though, and the trucks came right to life. And I only did that back then because someone recommended it, telling me that a big carb like that was just too much, where the motor was basically stock. Would a big two barrel work?
A 500 2 barrel and a 500 4 barrel at two very differnt thing. A 4 barrel version of the 2 barrel would be 1000cfm and a 2 barrel version of the 4 barrel would be 250cfm. A small 4 barrel will always run way better than any 2 barrel because of fuel distribution. Vac sec. Carbs run better because you dont choke the engine with too much air all at once and produces more torque than the same size double pumper
@@NightWrencher okay. I actually started looking into this because of a project I have. Its a 97 chevy 2500 with a 454, and I was hoping I'd be able to convert that to carbureted, but I've read that the first couple years of the vortec had their own set of issues, too.
Matt. The 750 double pumper will run fine on a 5.3. It’s all in the tune. You just gotta know what your doing. What you don’t want to do is run a smaller cfm carb on a motor. And if your going 454 I would go for a 1000 cfm and you’ll have lil wiggle room to do upgrades on a 454
We almost gazz our self in the 79 camaro ,lower vent need to stay closed hahahaha
Well what do you expect, you're running and ancient carburetor and a small one at that. Get with the times and see all the new performances carbs available. Lol
My AFRs are spot on, so fuel delivery is not an issue. Going too big will cause me to lose torque in the lower RPMs which is no good for my truck if I want to tow with it. I would go with a slightly larger carb but change over to annular boosters and see where we are at after that. But next on my list is a cam!
@@NightWrencher all I'm saying is an LS engine loves a carburetor application. At least mine does anyway. Street or track it performs as well as any efi I've ever ran. Like stated before, if you know how to tune a carb, they are great. As with anything , newer carbs have more functionality and tuning advancements that a 1980 carb would have. Try a new one and and then do another video on that carb.
@@chadbbcmustang3319 I agree with you 100%. I have a 625 demon that flows more air than my 650. I might throw it on, tune it to my LS and make a few more runs to see the changes.
@@chadbbcmustang3319 I posted a Dyno run video if you havnt checked it out yet.
Sniper EFI!!!
How would you the 4l60e trans to shift .
You would either have to switch to the older 4l60/700r4 or get a module that would do it for you.
My ls runs harder with the 830hp Holley smf the trick flow manifold than it ever did with the injection. Like the comment before me says you just have to know what you’re doing
Dude you actually need to read and research. 1 thing is more electrical draw equals less horsepower it's more strain on your engine your alternator has to work harder cos it's a bigger circuit. Like injectors ect ect . You want a RELIABLE carb you need to get a quadrajet factory gm carb people rag them alot but when they're brand new and it takes years for them to need a rebuild. I ran one on my Camaro and never once had to tune it . When it comes out of adjustment it's time for a rebuild. People drove carbed cars for years as daily's. Theres a reason carb was the way of like all the way to 87. You gott weigh your options reliability/ hp. Do your research get a quadrajet and give it another try
Electrical draw is minimal on an efi engine. Especially one that has enough torque to power through. Almost no one runs quadrajets or even edlebrocks on the LS because you can't tune them like you can a holley. Once you start modifying, all bets are off and you need to start working on your AFR to keep it in check. Check out the Carb LS Swap facebook page and see what everyone else is running. Cheers.
I bet a q jet would run one just fine w no issues idc what everyone else is doing its because most people are not familiar w them and think they are well quadra junk this they are not and will outperform and be more streetable than any holley plus will work on any engine from a lil old 283 to a big block 454 yep same carb try that w a holley I never liked any squarebore carbs ever never had any luck w them tried everything jet changing till I was blue in the face and put my good old q jet back on and well never looked back used that very same carb on many motors w out a hickup big and small
Q-Jets are one of the most popular carbs on almost all GM engines right next to the Carter AVS/ edelbrock. Damn near bullet proof carbs on most stock engines. Even a stock LS only needs about 500CFM to max out its power output.
@@NightWrencher get an 850 qjet you'll be surprised. Dont always listen to other people be a leader not a follower.
How much psi on ur gas
Im running 4psi on a return system.
Cleaning off your bench should be on your list of things to take care of… not watching anymore…
There is a reason carbs were discontinued in the 1980's. Unless you get lucky u will never get carb set right.
bullshit
How much hp do you think you lose with a carb?
im using a quadrajet on my stock 5.3 for fuel economy. Performer RPM , comp cam, 180* fabbed headers, 1981 camaro TH350 3.00:1 posi 10 bolt. 4500 tight nitrous convertor. Still a work in progress wish iknew about wires and junk. going to swap in a big crank does anyone know if a stock 5.3 can fit a 4.250" with some minor grinding of block?
Quadrajet for mpg, but everything else is high performance lol. Is there a reason you arn't upgrading to a 6.0 block instead if youre going to build it up anyway?
@@NightWrencher Ilike the small bore size better
For an NA build I think the 6.0 is the way to go. Richard Holdener did a comparison with a 5.3 and 6.0 and found that hp and tq were directly affected by displacement and the 6.0 always made more power with the same mods. I know the 6.0s are more expensive, b7t if you're going to rework your 5.3 anyway it might be worth it, idk.
@@NightWrencher Yes thank you for the advice , and for everyone out there it is the best way to go. I just like the smaller bore size with a long stroke, however ijust found out ishould stick with only 4" stroke. to make a 383. its going to 3.905" bore and 4" stroke. thanks for the respond i'm learning alot from everyone, and ihaven't started the build yet, so icould end up with a 6.0L GEN IV. also anyone out there doing a 5.3, understand you need to rebuild that thing with GEN IV rods or your gen III rods are going to blow with any amount of cam and or compression. i'm looking at cams and want to use the summit high lift cam specs are 209/217 @ .050" and .550"/ .550" lift respectively. its a real stout tiny cam with alot of lift versus duration.
@@NightWrencher The quadrajet can deliver both performance and mpg, it uses metering rods and vacuum for the secondaries so it flows what it needs but cruises only on the primaries so delivers best of both worlds. Setup properly they are great.
I mean I respect the opinion. But it's been proven time and time again that a carb can push more ponies to the wheels in a lot of cases lol.
I've seen the back to back runs on richard holdeners channel and a carb does have a marginal advantage up top but in an LS specifically, the stock intake designs are so good that none of the carb intakes can beat out the stock truck or TBSS intake numbers. But power production is only part of the puzzle. Driveability and mpg take a small hit as well so it all depends on what you want to use it for.
@@NightWrencher oh without a doubt. I meant just in general with a lot of applications wasn't pointing LS specific. I have a 4.8 myself I plan to keep the stock truck intake because of that too so I know what you mean there haha. It's just interesting to see an old school set up out perform a lot of new stuff too. Some guys still make big power carb swapping an LS but I still agree the factory intakes are what's best on them. GM did a good job on them for sure.
@@kenparsons4132 it's all about what camshaft is in it lol if ur intake is set up to make all of its power from 2500-6000 then ur cam should have a power band range from2500-6000 so u can get the most power out of your ls and there's a better intake that makes more power then the stock one with a stock cam it's make by Holly they look similar one just says lsx and is gray and black
#1 fuel consumption........carbs atomize fuel but they use a LOT OF IT
MSD MAKES A BOX WITH PILLS WITH DIFFERENT TUNE THERE IS MOD THAT YOU CAN ADD A HEI TO A LS LOL
Some race classes require a distributor so that does make sense. Probably not a good idea though
Done 3 recently . 2 using 6014 with timing tweak Holley dual plane and Holley 600cfm street carb. Both run Awesome. Did one with single plane victor and edelbrock 750 and 6010 box #3 pill has off idle flat spot but RIPS!!!
Nice! Heres to hoping I get mine tweaked well enough.
Really no more than 34* timing ramp it up 13* off idle to rev limit. Working good so far.
@@scottesguerra5301 i havnt messed with the timing yet, but that is something to look into!
That off idle could be the idle feed restrictors, thats what it was on mine, go 4 numbers up and see if it helps.
@@frankdatank7751 I wish you said this a month ago! Yes, this was actually what I needed!
Carburetor more Hp also it cost more to swap a fuel injected LS than a carb ….
More wiring , ECM , fuel pump ETC .. put a intake and carb on it slow it in just like a 70 model 350 … and tuning ? On a carb ? = screwdriver and a hood hearing 😂😂😂😂
my carb set up; used 750 holley, used edlebrock 7118, and microsquirt (Running spark only) was less than hp-tuners. (600$)
carbs can achieve nearly the same mpg and power as fuel injection with tuning. (it is a lot harder than tuning a fuel map tho)
i have daily driven tons of carbed trucks/cars in negative Michigan weather. never had a problem.
when i was debating going fuel injection vs carbed, i saved money going to a carb set up. i even built a spread sheet lol
I played around with the idea of going microsquirt but going with an ignition box was only a little more and it could do more things so that what I ended up doing.
Clearly you need a new carburetor 🤦🏿♂️
What do you mean?