I think people are stumped as to why you would want to run a carb. Let me help them out. Simplicity. No computer and new wireing harness or sensors. No new gas pedal, no new transmission, drive shaft and shift leakage to fab. No new fuel tank. Much better engine in a old school vehicle.
Do you have one? 😂you don't know Jack shit😂😂😂I have one.and yes it's better fuel injected.you know how much trash is in that old fuel tank?and you still have to put an electric fuel pump on an ls anyway.so ya better change that tank.i found out the hard way.😂I could go on and on.😂😂😂
This video is a game changer . No more friends standing around scratching their heads on to the 50 reasons the F/I no longer runs . BTW a electric carb fuel pump should work and I heard a vega electric will work.
I've had several people run a few different types of pumps and the cool thing about a carb is that they all work well. On a return style regulated system, your fuel pressure is set dead nuts and youll never have to worry about over fueling your carb.
@@infamousnova once time frees up and I can get back to working on it. I would like to start documenting my progress and upload some videos of it. There’s quite a few videos of 4runners crawling. But none of the 1st gen built into a prerunner/dune type. Which is my goal since I go to Glamis often.
Maybe I missed it, but when you switch an LS to a carb, where do you set the wide-open ignition timing curve? Is it similar to a conventional carburetor/distributor engine? Roughly 20 degrees at 2,000, 30 degrees at 3,000, topping out at 32-34?
..the reason I am even interested in this is because I don't want anything to do with injection and it's electronic controls/excessive wiring, sensors, high pressure fuel pumps, etc...but option makes me interested in an LS....
@@dyer2cycle fuel injection is not that complicated. With an LS carb swap, you're going to need all of that anyway other than injectors. If you had a pulled LS engine, you could get an Fi Tech standalone ECU and wiring harness. Connect harness to the original fuel injectors. Plug it into the coil packs. Plug into other basic sensors like cam sensor, crank sensor and temp sensor (already in engine). Literally all of that is just plug and play, it's not hard Only real thing you'd need to do is have one O2 sensor in the exhaust pipe (so the computer can trim fuel automatically) and run a fuel injection rated fuel pump (you'll have an electric pump for the carburetor, regardless) I've been wanting to carburetor swap an LS for a while, but every time it comes to it, fuel injection always comes out on top.
@@blakeholder7645 ..how much would all that stuff cost approximately?..what you are describing sounds fairly simple in the context of electronic fuel injection, but it sounds expensive,and still has the words "electronic", "sensors", "ECU", "computer" included in it...I think I'll stick to SBC and what I really like, 292 and 250 inline six...what got me interested at all in the LS is the fact there are a lot of them available now, whereas the sbc's and especially the inline sixes are getting harder to find(inexpensively)...
Technically yes but to use the stock computer you need to know how to tune it so that itll work without all of the other sensors. If you just install the carb manifold as is and just try to run it, the computer will go into limp mode
Manual says 7.5 amp fuse. I ran a 5 amp fuse on it, cuz that's all I had, and the fuse popped at wide open throttle in the upper RPMs. Sorry for the late reply!(TH-cam hid your comment, idk why.) Good luck!
You can remove the stock oil pressure sensor from the back of the block on the LS and install an adapter. The LS size is like an m16 or something like that but you can get a fitting that goes from the LS metric size to the sbc npt size. Idk what size your sbc is but heres a link to a kit if your stock sensors are 1/8npt
You could always run a 2bbl adapter on the single plane and it would work exactly the same. Same could be said for any TBI unit but I dont think I would replace factory EFI for diy tbi imo.
@@NightWrencher My understanding is that single planes are really lacking in the low rpm range and vacuum because of the large plenum volume, with the TBI it doesn't care on vacuum like the venturi's on the carb does. In theory its shouldn't effect low end very much and still have good vacuum, mid and high range performance. User "Fast355" used that Victor Jr. 2bbl with a TBI had good results but then again it a vortec headed SBC.
I don't think you would pick up the power on the bottom. Richard Holdener did an intake test with both carb and EFI and found that even with a TBI unit like the fast, sniper, xfi, etc, power numbers and curve were exactly the same. So it was concluded that the intake design dictated the power curve, not the fuel supply system.
Question I’m running doing a 5.3 ls swap with a msd and intake ,on a 98 gmc sierra do I need to still run a standalone harness to use for the transmission ?
Can you run the ls with an electric fuel pump good at 4-7 psi for the carburetor? That's what I have on my stock carburetor chevy 350 but I'd like to know if I can run the same pump when going carburetor on an LS.
1100 is on par with the Holley terminator X for keeping the fuel injection. I am old school, carbs just work for me. I am in no way against efi, my 460 stroker runs with FiTech efi.
The only output the MSD box has is an RPM signal that works with universal tachs or tachs that accept a GM square wave RPM signal. I'm afraid you'll need to change the senders and gauges if your stock ones work off of the PCM.
I turned my 2007 6.0 l LS based vortec into a 950 CFM alcohol drinking monster in my 1930s style coup hotrod build using a metric frame that came in all your g body cars like cutlass supreme and so on in the 80s everything I built was free to me cuse I just used what I had laying around from asphalt circle track racing the body is a fiberglass vintage dirt modified body that is made for a metric frame based oval racecar I have longtube open headers that are painted white with high temp powder coat it looks like a bad to the bone 1940s-60s style asphalt super modified all street legal fully caged with Ford nine inch floater 4 link suspension with rear track bar and fully adjustable 1 3/4 in sway bar and of course Jack bolts for all four racing springs racing shocks from Penske, 3 speed Muncie with 7in triple disc clutch.
@@NightWrencher I figured it would take some tuning with at least exhaust gas machine. I just installed a engine in a 79 Scout, California emissions with an 1400 Edelbrock on it. Local machine shop built it for the owner and he couldn’t get anyone to install it. Shop that removed sold and the new owner wouldn’t reinstall it. So being a nice guy I said I’d install it. What a mistake. Apparently the rings never seated and it went through 3 quarts of oil in 900 miles and destroyed the cat. Don’t know if it’s my fault or not, shop is blaming me for not rebuilding the carb and claiming the carb over fueled it and washed the cylinder walls. I’m pulling it back out and having the shop go back through it and then someone else can put it back in. Don’t need these headaches.
I highly doubt its your fault. The amount of fuel it would take to completely wash out the cylinders would be sp much, the engine would be smoking like a crazy. Considering you were using an edlebrock, that leads me to believe that the rings had too much gap or the walls were machined too far out. Check the plugs if you still have them, they would have to be so black and the engine would be running like garbage. AFR gauges are like $180 but they make tunning a breeze. You can get the full tune done in an afternoon if you have all the parts available. If you do tune the next engine, keep the cat off until its ready.
@@NightWrencher AFR gauges, I’ll have to look those up. I’m trying to do the right thing for the guy because he’s been screwed by so many shops over this scout. I don’t think the carb is the problem either but most engine builders warranties aren’t worth the paper there written on and they’ll put blame on everyone but them. The owner told me after the the scout had arrived the first time that he had just gotten it smog tested and it passed. I was surprised they passed it in this state with that carburetor. That’s one reason I didn’t suspect any problem with the carburetor, plus it started right up and ran great. When it stopped running on him he had it towed and the mechanic said it was almost three quarts low on oil. He filled it up but when it shows up at my place it’s almost a quart and a half over filled. Can of worms and no one is honest with the guy.
You dont have to have any harness except for the little coil pack harnesses. The unit comes with a harness so you just need power and ground for the box
Or the daytona sensors box. If you know how to reprogram and tune the stock PCM with HP tuners you could use that too. You cant just install the carburetor on the stock engine, it wont work.
Well it depends. How long is too long? 15 secs isnt even enough to warm up the head so if heat is not the issue. Then what is? Ive ran tons of engines like this, without issue.
What’s the measurement from the top of the carb to the top of the valley cover? I’m try to figure what will fit on my 70 Monte Carlo. I have 11 1/2 inches from under hood to top of motor valley cover without any intake. Thanks in advance!
Theres no loss of response. With a properly tuned carb youll have even more response when compared to standard EFI. Fuel efficency is another matter because in order to gain that response, youll need to add more fuel to compensate
You have a few options but the most popular ones are the MSD 6014 and the Daytona Sensors Smart Spark LS ignition boxes. It just runs timing on the coils and the carb runs the rest.
The MSD 6014 needs to see a cam signal in order to light off your coils correctly. The cam sensor takes the place of your distributor and sets your timing
Popping on accel is usually lean condition. Single planes don't offer too good of a signal at low RPMs when compared to a dual plane. Try to see if you can narrow down the popping to the individual circuit and go 2 sizes up
Thank you so much I just found this video. I don’t know jack about building or working on motors, I just bought a 92’ s-10 and a 5.3 with 4L60 pair. I don’t even know where to start so I guess I will be a TH-cam junkie to learn how to get it running. Cross my fingers any suggestions will help
Yeah I am, just finished hooking it up last week. Works really good after I regeared both axles and welded the front diff. I post updates on instagram @thenightwrencher
As far as I know, you'll need a transmission controller to control the 4L60 and you would need to install a TPS on the carb shaft and calibrate the systen. I would stick to the TH350 or even build a 700R4 since its basically a 4L60 without the computer
You dont have to plug in the laptop to run it as long as you make sure to hook up the map sensor hose. It has 6 preset timing maps so you can start it in the regular truck setting and move it up as you like.
I'm sure you can but it would be more money than an aftermarket ignition box. You would need a TPS for a carb, map sensor, a special tune to delete the MAF and turn off the fuel injectors. Then set up a custom ignition table. Not worth it in my opinion.
@@NightWrencher no need for lots of sensors only cam and crank sensor and vats delete i think it will run the coil packs and using pc hammer or ls droid u can flash a bin that can adabet with your spark timing
You need the a tps for a carb to run the transmission. Youll need to delete the maf and run a speed density tune with a map sensor for ignition. Its not worth the hassle to me but Im sure it could work
@@NightWrencher i will swap a mercedes engine into my old mercedes but this one uses ecu wich i ll delete and modify the intake for a carburetor i was wondering how to power the coils
You'll have to use something like a megasquirt or terminator X for something like that. It takes a lot of effort and you'll need to learn how to do a bit of tuning but it can be done
@@NightWrencher yeah i will delete the complete fuel injector system and modify the intake for a carb and i may get an aftermaket ignition to power the coils thanks
So when doing this will I have to change headers I am taking my 307 out and running with a 5.3 LS swap I keep hearing ppl say I need to change headers ?
Bout a sniper efi for my irocz, don’t think the tpi is gonna be reliable after all these years of sitting. Then I thought how could spark be used on a carbed ls setup. Now we know
@@NightWrencher thanks very much I thought I was going to have to pull the whole computer system out of an LS equipped vehicle and install it in my K-10 now I can continue with my projects thank you
Its always recommended to add a return line on a carb set up because you will have more consistant fuel pressure and colder fuel enter the carb. If you have a deadhead compatible fuel pump that runs 6.5 psi or less, then you can get away with not having a return line but it is not recommended
For the stock 5.3 PCV valve on the driverside, you can cut off the stock hard line and install a 3/8 rubber line and plug that into the base of the carb. For the fitting on the passenger side just hook up a line and let it dangle off the side or hook up a little air filter on it.
Any port below the throttle blades should work just fine. You can run it on an intake port or into the base of the carb. Youll plug in 1 for the PCV and another one for your vacuum brakes. Position doesnt matter but make sure its a direct connection for it to work right unless you have a really loopy cam that doesnt make vacuum.
@@mtrcyclmhm ive heard that the SS2 cam gives pretty good vacuum but in case it doesnt, you're going to need to add a vacuum pump for your brake booster or switch to hydroboost brakes. if youre worried about the PCV system not having anout vacuum, just hook it up direct and dont worry about it. If youre racing the engine, youre gonna want to run an oil catch can inbetween the PCV valve and the vacuum port on the intake/carb or else youll suck oil fumes that can cause detonation
It just depends on your intended application. If its race only, a 750 would be good and if its a cruiser, a 600, 650 should be fine. You can go smaller but I havnt tested it out personally.
So I see these engines for like $400 at junkyard so about $1500. Do you know the best 5.3 to get? Hp wise. I have a third gen camaro z28 and trying to find the best method to get around 300-400 hp. For a decent price and also not make a headache while hooking everything up. Thanks in advance
Gen 3 LS make about 285. After you install a cam, headers and a tune, youll be around 350hp. Any 5.3 is fine if youre not trying to race it professionally. But they can also handle good boost in stock form in case you want to go turbo so there are a lot of options!
@@NightWrencher thanks it normally does pretty good but I might change it back I have a mild cam in it dual-plane intake and a 750 Holley carb and the 6014 MSD box one thing I notice is I put a bout 100 miles on it it's almost like it's flooding out my carburetor my plugs were black and my carburetor I think I'm going to change the regulator you have any idea why it's burning rich
@@ksykes902 I'm guessing you dont have an AFR gauge on your car. These engines like to run lean. Anthing below 12:1 and youll lose power. You have bigger port heads so you lose intake velocity, you lost compression so the flame is colder. Lastly you have a mild cam, but youre not going to need a lot of fuel on the top end because you wont be able to breath enough air. Hit me up on instagram @thenightwrencher and i can help you dial it in.
I had plenty of experience with Carburetors and they're a pain in the ass. That's why I understand why people want fuel injection. But there ain't nothing like a carburetor just it the pedal an zoom💨💨💨💨
I know my STOCK 5.3 did NOT like anything smaller than a 650 holley. One thing I learned while trying to tune my smaller carbs was that the CFM rating should be comparable to Throttle body size on a fuel injected car and the jets were like the injectors. Mild 5.3s and 6.0s run at least a 750 or 800. For your app I wouldnt go smaller than an 850 double pumper. If your afrs run too rich under load in the top end you might need to go bigger. I hope this helps!
this is a cool video. IMO i wouldn't go this route due to the expense and function. so your about at $1100. if you get Holleys' terminator system; assuming you have a complete motor, you basically are spending the same but get easily tunable EFI. better power, fuel mileage, throttle response and tunabilty from a laptop. still good video.
@@diduck6878 ..it's not whether it's time consuming or not...I want something simple, mechanical, and something that doesn't require a computer...I guess I am sick of everything in life relying on a computer..enough already...life has become a computer overload...
I have a question if you don’t care. I have a 1993 K1500 4x4. I’m looking to swap from a 4.3 TBI to a 4.8/5.3 Vortec. Would it be possible to run my factory computer, Throttle Body, and injectors for the swap. If what I’ve researched is correct. I can use an adapter to run the throttle body on the carb intake. Would the MSD Harness still work with this idea? I really want to keep my truck as simple as possible.
Sorry, I forgot to mention that the throttle body and the injectors are the same between the 4.3, 5.0, and 5.7 TBI engines. So they should provide enough fuel, but I’ve been told that the fuel pump is borderline inadequate. Figure I would up it to a higher pressure vortec pump.
Thats a pretty neat idea, but here are some issues that you will run against. The 4.8/5.3 dont have distributors, so you would still need to find a way to fire off the coils. You could use the stock computer to run the injectors and tbi unit, but you still have the problem of running a v6 computer on a v8 without the correct sensors as triggers for the injectors. Honestly its better to get yourself a 6014 if youre going to go carb. Engine runs super smooth and has pleanty of powet eveb with the tiny carb I have on it. If not, full EFI is just as good! Good luck!
Distributor never crossed my mind! Dang it, oh well. Thank you for the response. I’m still researching my options. Due to my trucks age everything is still mechanical with the exception of the fuel system. Everything I’m reading is pointing towards me going with a carb. I Was trying to keep the fuel injection. However, I don’t want the added expense of a stand alone ECM. Or, the expense of swapping gauge clusters, trans., etc. Just to keep the fuel injection. One last question please. Am I right that I can use a mid rise dual plane carb intake for a LS1 on a 4.8/5.3? I know the fuel injection intakes will. I haven’t found any information on the Carb intake though. Thank you again!
Cameron Holt the amount of cash to convert to your efi would be better used to put the ls efi in it the tbi stuff is a waste of time even with bigger injectors my truck is barely over maybe 210 hp and that’s with a bigger fuel pump and all the bullshit tbi mods you’d be better off putting a carb on and being done
This comment was hidden from me for some reason. The LS1 has the same intake ports as a 4.8 5.3 6.0 so any intake made for an LS1 will fit on the others. sorry for the late response, I hope it helps!
Do yourself a very big favor and take that fancy fuel filter off and Chuck it as far as you can them filters have burnt down more vehicles then you can count for one they loosen up and leak and for another one they hit anything they crack and leak I watched my buddy 67 Chevelle burnt down because of that filter and know of two others so you can do what you want but for me no way what I have that junk on my vehicle
Check out my latest carb conversion video. I was only using that filter as an adapter to go from stock 5/16 to 3/8. After I finished redoing all my lines, that filter went away.
@@701garage in most cases the loss of efi nets you less mpg but opens up the engine for more power NA. Look up some videos by Richard Hoffman(?) I dont remember his name exactly but most of dyno tests are dont using holley carbs because theyre more flexible in NA applications
I think people are stumped as to why you would want to run a carb. Let me help them out. Simplicity. No computer and new wireing harness or sensors. No new gas pedal, no new transmission, drive shaft and shift leakage to fab. No new fuel tank. Much better engine in a old school vehicle.
Spot on. I'm considering it for my swap for every one of those reasons
Do you have one? 😂you don't know Jack shit😂😂😂I have one.and yes it's better fuel injected.you know how much trash is in that old fuel tank?and you still have to put an electric fuel pump on an ls anyway.so ya better change that tank.i found out the hard way.😂I could go on and on.😂😂😂
@@thatman4853electric pump yeah... But a world different fuel pressure..
I’ve spent too much money on tuners to not have a good idle so this is my next route
@@adammanmiller4546must have been some shitty tuners😂
You are a very intelligent man one of the smartest people I’ve seen messing around with the LS motor thank you for your knowledge sir
Thanks so much! I really appreciate it!
This video is a game changer . No more friends standing around scratching their heads on to the 50 reasons the F/I no longer runs . BTW a electric carb fuel pump should work and I heard a vega electric will work.
I've had several people run a few different types of pumps and the cool thing about a carb is that they all work well. On a return style regulated system, your fuel pressure is set dead nuts and youll never have to worry about over fueling your carb.
I just picked up a holley 750 carb on the LS carb intake, MSD box and the coil packs for 600. Swapping a L33 LS into a 1st Gen 4runner
Thats gonna be sweet! A 750 vac secondary will flow pretty well. A 650 would probably be better suited unless you plan to add a bigger cam etc.
Hows it going
@@infamousnova it’s been going pretty slow. Motor and transmission are in. Working on the Transfercase and building a full float 9” for the rear
@@SubePelayo928 Thats ok, take your time and make sure its right.
@@infamousnova once time frees up and I can get back to working on it. I would like to start documenting my progress and upload some videos of it. There’s quite a few videos of 4runners crawling. But none of the 1st gen built into a prerunner/dune type. Which is my goal since I go to Glamis often.
Maybe I missed it, but when you switch an LS to a carb, where do you set the wide-open ignition timing curve? Is it similar to a conventional carburetor/distributor engine? Roughly 20 degrees at 2,000, 30 degrees at 3,000, topping out at 32-34?
Just subscribed and wanted thank you for the overview. Outstanding presentation and clear information - well done.
You're welcome man! Thanks so much!
Why do we need to have stock harness if the msd is taking care of the spark ?
You still need the stock coil pack harnesses to connect into the MSD harness
No headers??
The stock computer is not eliminated when going to carb setup?
The stock computer in COMPLETELY eliminated when going carb. Your carburator will run the fuel, and an MSD 6014 will run your coils.
So you don’t need the computer ?
You do not need the stock computer for a carb swap on an ls. You will need some sort of ignition controller such as the MSD 6014.
The reason I went with lS swap was to get away from a carburetored motor
Lol I can totally agree. I wasn't to upset with carbs. The LS platform is basically the perfect engine and even in carbureted form is runs perfect
@@NightWrencher yeah it seems like a simple set up, but I never have any luck with carbs
..the reason I am even interested in this is because I don't want anything to do with injection and it's electronic controls/excessive wiring, sensors, high pressure fuel pumps, etc...but option makes me interested in an LS....
@@dyer2cycle fuel injection is not that complicated. With an LS carb swap, you're going to need all of that anyway other than injectors. If you had a pulled LS engine, you could get an Fi Tech standalone ECU and wiring harness. Connect harness to the original fuel injectors. Plug it into the coil packs. Plug into other basic sensors like cam sensor, crank sensor and temp sensor (already in engine). Literally all of that is just plug and play, it's not hard
Only real thing you'd need to do is have one O2 sensor in the exhaust pipe (so the computer can trim fuel automatically) and run a fuel injection rated fuel pump (you'll have an electric pump for the carburetor, regardless)
I've been wanting to carburetor swap an LS for a while, but every time it comes to it, fuel injection always comes out on top.
@@blakeholder7645 ..how much would all that stuff cost approximately?..what you are describing sounds fairly simple in the context of electronic fuel injection, but it sounds expensive,and still has the words "electronic", "sensors", "ECU", "computer" included in it...I think I'll stick to SBC and what I really like, 292 and 250 inline six...what got me interested at all in the LS is the fact there are a lot of them available now, whereas the sbc's and especially the inline sixes are getting harder to find(inexpensively)...
I am happy that you got it started but happier your wife was so excited for you bruh
Thank you very much! Much appreciated!
Do I need to run a fuel pressure regulator if I run a tbi in tank fuel pump?
Typically yes because a TBI pump puts out about 11-15psi
Couldn't you find the wires that go to the cam and crank sensor out of the stock computer and run it
Technically yes but to use the stock computer you need to know how to tune it so that itll work without all of the other sensors. If you just install the carb manifold as is and just try to run it, the computer will go into limp mode
Do you remember what intake manifold is on this build
Holley 300-130 cathedral port ls1/lm7/lq4/lr4/ls6 style
What size fuse for the hot wire from the msd?
Manual says 7.5 amp fuse. I ran a 5 amp fuse on it, cuz that's all I had, and the fuse popped at wide open throttle in the upper RPMs. Sorry for the late reply!(TH-cam hid your comment, idk why.) Good luck!
To maintain my stock gauges on 75 k10 I want to instal the original oil pressure sending unit on to the 5.3. Please advise with parts list. Thanks.
You can remove the stock oil pressure sensor from the back of the block on the LS and install an adapter. The LS size is like an m16 or something like that but you can get a fitting that goes from the LS metric size to the sbc npt size. Idk what size your sbc is but heres a link to a kit if your stock sensors are 1/8npt
www.ebay.com/itm/LS-Oil-Pressure-Coolant-Temperature-Gauge-Adapters-For-Chevy-Silverado-1500/253983919559?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=253983919559&targetid=1068323855270&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=1013576&campaignid=11760659449&mkgroupid=112020222897&rlsatarget=aud-622524042678:pla-1068323855270&abcId=9300462&merchantid=101696136&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyoeCBhCTARIsAOfpKxiEk_tdhnrzNs3G8ZS3WSSeHXpmB0SW0kI_ekvixm6tAlwpsVygw6YaArwrEALw_wcB&pageci=da899026-008b-465d-b286-39f34c4c0b54
I think ICT billet also sells them. 16mm to 1/8npt
Ordered. Thanks bro. I appreciate you.
@@kenitescribes8963 no problem, anytime 👍
How would you wire a 4l80e transmission to this setup
You would have to use an aftermarket transmission controller
Thks
With all the bell and whistles not b.s is it worth it thks I bought a lq9 for a $100.00 no injection
Ive since switched to the smart spark LS ignition by daytona sensors
@NightWrencher where buy thatvone
Thks
I would love to see a Victor Jr. 2bbl intake for LS and use a 454 tbi or a bored out on it and use a MS or Speeduino.
You could always run a 2bbl adapter on the single plane and it would work exactly the same. Same could be said for any TBI unit but I dont think I would replace factory EFI for diy tbi imo.
@@NightWrencher My understanding is that single planes are really lacking in the low rpm range and vacuum because of the large plenum volume, with the TBI it doesn't care on vacuum like the venturi's on the carb does. In theory its shouldn't effect low end very much and still have good vacuum, mid and high range performance. User "Fast355" used that Victor Jr. 2bbl with a TBI had good results but then again it a vortec headed SBC.
I don't think you would pick up the power on the bottom. Richard Holdener did an intake test with both carb and EFI and found that even with a TBI unit like the fast, sniper, xfi, etc, power numbers and curve were exactly the same. So it was concluded that the intake design dictated the power curve, not the fuel supply system.
Did you run a relay from the box or to the fused red wire?
You can do either one. the Box doesnt require a relay because it doesnt pull enough amps to need one
Question I’m running doing a 5.3 ls swap with a msd and intake ,on a 98 gmc sierra do I need to still run a standalone harness to use for the transmission ?
The MSD 6014 has no transmission control so you will need a transmission controller and sub harness if you plan to run a 4L60e
Dang .. I gotcha makes since
Can you run the ls with an electric fuel pump good at 4-7 psi for the carburetor? That's what I have on my stock carburetor chevy 350 but I'd like to know if I can run the same pump when going carburetor on an LS.
I have another video showing you guys how to retrofit an electric pump inside your tank and I have it regulated at 5psi. Works perfect.
@@NightWrencher thanks for your reply, will check it out.
Yes
So it costs about as much to carb as it would to use a Holley fuel injection set up
Almost as much, yes. And more than stock efi.
1100 is on par with the Holley terminator X for keeping the fuel injection. I am old school, carbs just work for me. I am in no way against efi, my 460 stroker runs with FiTech efi.
I’m gonna get a lm7 n put a carb on it n msd 6014 ,how do I time the engine to run as a daily
Will the mad box hook to factory gauges? An thank you so much man it’s a great video
The only output the MSD box has is an RPM signal that works with universal tachs or tachs that accept a GM square wave RPM signal. I'm afraid you'll need to change the senders and gauges if your stock ones work off of the PCM.
I turned my 2007 6.0 l LS based vortec into a 950 CFM alcohol drinking monster in my 1930s style coup hotrod build using a metric frame that came in all your g body cars like cutlass supreme and so on in the 80s everything I built was free to me cuse I just used what I had laying around from asphalt circle track racing the body is a fiberglass vintage dirt modified body that is made for a metric frame based oval racecar I have longtube open headers that are painted white with high temp powder coat it looks like a bad to the bone 1940s-60s style asphalt super modified all street legal fully caged with Ford nine inch floater 4 link suspension with rear track bar and fully adjustable 1 3/4 in sway bar and of course Jack bolts for all four racing springs racing shocks from Penske, 3 speed Muncie with 7in triple disc clutch.
Thats a little too extreme for me 🤣
Can this be set up to run on a vehicle with a catalytic converter without melting down the converter?
Yeah it can, you just need to make sure you dial in your tune with a wideband
@@NightWrencher
I figured it would take some tuning with at least exhaust gas machine. I just installed a engine in a 79 Scout, California emissions with an 1400 Edelbrock on it. Local machine shop built it for the owner and he couldn’t get anyone to install it. Shop that removed sold and the new owner wouldn’t reinstall it. So being a nice guy I said I’d install it. What a mistake. Apparently the rings never seated and it went through 3 quarts of oil in 900 miles and destroyed the cat. Don’t know if it’s my fault or not, shop is blaming me for not rebuilding the carb and claiming the carb over fueled it and washed the cylinder walls. I’m pulling it back out and having the shop go back through it and then someone else can put it back in. Don’t need these headaches.
I highly doubt its your fault. The amount of fuel it would take to completely wash out the cylinders would be sp much, the engine would be smoking like a crazy. Considering you were using an edlebrock, that leads me to believe that the rings had too much gap or the walls were machined too far out. Check the plugs if you still have them, they would have to be so black and the engine would be running like garbage. AFR gauges are like $180 but they make tunning a breeze. You can get the full tune done in an afternoon if you have all the parts available. If you do tune the next engine, keep the cat off until its ready.
@@NightWrencher
AFR gauges, I’ll have to look those up. I’m trying to do the right thing for the guy because he’s been screwed by so many shops over this scout. I don’t think the carb is the problem either but most engine builders warranties aren’t worth the paper there written on and they’ll put blame on everyone but them. The owner told me after the the scout had arrived the first time that he had just gotten it smog tested and it passed. I was surprised they passed it in this state with that carburetor. That’s one reason I didn’t suspect any problem with the carburetor, plus it started right up and ran great. When it stopped running on him he had it towed and the mechanic said it was almost three quarts low on oil. He filled it up but when it shows up at my place it’s almost a quart and a half over filled. Can of worms and no one is honest with the guy.
@@NightWrencher
What brand and model AFR tester do you have?
hey do you think i could keep the same computer for the 4l60e
You'd have to get someone to tune the PCM with a speed density tune to eliminate the MAF and run a spark only table
@@NightWrencher can a regular tuner do it?
@@jankycustoms6089 I don't know what you mean, you need someone who has done it before or it wont run right
If you don’t got your original stock wiring harness will it still work with aftermarket wiring harness ?
You dont have to have any harness except for the little coil pack harnesses. The unit comes with a harness so you just need power and ground for the box
Thank you
So you got have that msd box for it to work
Or the daytona sensors box. If you know how to reprogram and tune the stock PCM with HP tuners you could use that too. You cant just install the carburetor on the stock engine, it wont work.
Can you I use 4l80e 2007 and up if I go carburetor
I was always told to never run a engine without at least exhaust manifolds am I wrong
Well it depends. How long is too long? 15 secs isnt even enough to warm up the head so if heat is not the issue. Then what is? Ive ran tons of engines like this, without issue.
Does this also work for LQ9
Yes it will 👍
Do you need the factory computer and factory harness to use this set up?
The only factory Harnesses you need are the ones for the coils, one on each valve cover, everything else comes in the kit.
NightWrencher okay, awesome! Thank you!
So is there a pcm for this setup or does this take place of the pcm?
This takes the place of the PCM. The MSD 6014 controls your ignition, and your carb controls your fuel and you are good to go.
How do you connect the alternator?
What’s the measurement from the top of the carb to the top of the valley cover? I’m try to figure what will fit on my 70 Monte Carlo. I have 11 1/2 inches from under hood to top of motor valley cover without any intake. Thanks in advance!
Youre looking at about 8 and a quarter inches. If you find a slim air cleaner, you should have pretty good space
NightWrencher Thanks a million! 👍🏻
Youre welcome!
What is the advantage of replacing the EFI with a carburettor?
Fuel system is easier to adapt, lower charge temps under boost, tuning without a computer, cheaper to upgrade(jets vs fuel rails and injectors
@@NightWrencher worth the loss of throttle response and efficiency?
Theres no loss of response. With a properly tuned carb youll have even more response when compared to standard EFI. Fuel efficency is another matter because in order to gain that response, youll need to add more fuel to compensate
Im about to get mine running too
So no computer ? What fires the coils and times all of this ?
You have a few options but the most popular ones are the MSD 6014 and the Daytona Sensors Smart Spark LS ignition boxes. It just runs timing on the coils and the carb runs the rest.
Why do I need cam sensor ect if I'm carb swapping?
The MSD 6014 needs to see a cam signal in order to light off your coils correctly. The cam sensor takes the place of your distributor and sets your timing
@@NightWrencher awesome info thank you
Can I put any carburetor or are they different
Any carburetor that you know how to tune on a V8 will work
@@NightWrencher thanks bro so fast reply your the best I’m gonna recommend your channel
👍 no problem
Do you have to still flash the computer or it don't matter
The stock computer gets eliminated entirely and the only thing running your engine is the MSD 6014
Also im running 5.3 carburated single plane intake for sum reason it backfires loud pop on my tail pipe. and hesitates just a bit then accelerates ?
Popping on accel is usually lean condition. Single planes don't offer too good of a signal at low RPMs when compared to a dual plane. Try to see if you can narrow down the popping to the individual circuit and go 2 sizes up
What do you mean on the sizes? The size of carburator?
Main jets, IFRs, PVCRs, air bleeds, etc.
Ok gotcha i appreciate your help man
Thank you so much I just found this video. I don’t know jack about building or working on motors, I just bought a 92’ s-10 and a 5.3 with 4L60 pair. I don’t even know where to start so I guess I will be a TH-cam junkie to learn how to get it running. Cross my fingers any suggestions will help
Are you running 4x4 transmission with the 5.3 carburated?
Yeah I am, just finished hooking it up last week. Works really good after I regeared both axles and welded the front diff. I post updates on instagram @thenightwrencher
Sweet i have a 76 k10 4x4 i have th350 transmission now i want to swap it to 4l60 but im not sure how you run that with carb set up
As far as I know, you'll need a transmission controller to control the 4L60 and you would need to install a TPS on the carb shaft and calibrate the systen. I would stick to the TH350 or even build a 700R4 since its basically a 4L60 without the computer
If you can find an early 90s 4L60 without the computer, that would be a 700r4.
👍
How far will my mpg drop with a carb swap in a 05 yukon 4wd 5.3
Depends on carb size and tune but usually 2-3mpg if the tune is perfect.
did u have to program it first
If you hook up the map sensor on the 6014, you dont need to program it.
ok thanks dope video 🔥
Do you have to do anny computer work.
Well the msd ls work right off the box or do you still have to program it with a laptop
You dont have to plug in the laptop to run it as long as you make sure to hook up the map sensor hose. It has 6 preset timing maps so you can start it in the regular truck setting and move it up as you like.
u can ur stock pcm for ignition
I'm sure you can but it would be more money than an aftermarket ignition box. You would need a TPS for a carb, map sensor, a special tune to delete the MAF and turn off the fuel injectors. Then set up a custom ignition table. Not worth it in my opinion.
@@NightWrencher no need for lots of sensors only cam and crank sensor and vats delete i think it will run the coil packs and using pc hammer or ls droid u can flash a bin that can adabet with your spark timing
You need the a tps for a carb to run the transmission. Youll need to delete the maf and run a speed density tune with a map sensor for ignition. Its not worth the hassle to me but Im sure it could work
Wb injectors ?
There are no injectors. That is what the carburetor is for
Do you need a adapter to run a turbo 400 trans
The trans bolts up and youll need a spacer between the flexplate and the crank. I dont know too much more but the trans will bolt on to your LS
Pink blue gray wire?
UPDATE(3/17/21): I have an updated video with WAY MORE INFO: th-cam.com/video/a688pn_seUo/w-d-xo.html
how did you power the coils?
Currently using a Smart Spark LS by Daytona Sensors
@@NightWrencher i will swap a mercedes engine into my old mercedes but this one uses ecu wich i ll delete and modify the intake for a carburetor i was wondering how to power the coils
You'll have to use something like a megasquirt or terminator X for something like that. It takes a lot of effort and you'll need to learn how to do a bit of tuning but it can be done
@@NightWrencher yeah i will delete the complete fuel injector system and modify the intake for a carb and i may get an aftermaket ignition to power the coils thanks
What about tuning it
So when doing this will I have to change headers I am taking my 307 out and running with a 5.3 LS swap I keep hearing ppl say I need to change headers ?
Yeah, the exhaust ports are in different locations.
Bout a sniper efi for my irocz, don’t think the tpi is gonna be reliable after all these years of sitting. Then I thought how could spark be used on a carbed ls setup. Now we know
RIP to all the guys who "never had luck with carbs." Takes more than luck...
It absolutely takes more than luck 👍
You said something about a computer I need a computer other than the MSD box I'm building a 1985 K10 that I want an LS engine carbureted
The only computer youll need is the MSD box or a smartspark ls box and a laptop to tune it.
@@NightWrencher thanks very much I thought I was going to have to pull the whole computer system out of an LS equipped vehicle and install it in my K-10 now I can continue with my projects thank you
Youre welcome! Just remember to keep the OEM coil harnesses on the valve covers because that doesnt come with the msd box.
@@NightWrencher got you I also just watched your five reasons why to carburate your LS and also I just subscribe so thank you very much
Thats awesome man! Much appreciated!
Do you need a return line for 5.3 carb set up?
Its always recommended to add a return line on a carb set up because you will have more consistant fuel pressure and colder fuel enter the carb. If you have a deadhead compatible fuel pump that runs 6.5 psi or less, then you can get away with not having a return line but it is not recommended
Ok thanks. Im currently running holley blue fuel pump will that be ok with out return line
A lot of people run that pump dead headed so you should be ok.
Ok thanks man 👍
Well said it's simple and in my opinion you'll get about the same performance
Can you explain the best way to hook up vacume line from intake to valve covers?
For the stock 5.3 PCV valve on the driverside, you can cut off the stock hard line and install a 3/8 rubber line and plug that into the base of the carb. For the fitting on the passenger side just hook up a line and let it dangle off the side or hook up a little air filter on it.
What about the 3/8 line out of the intake? I have a holly single plain. To the vavume canister? This is in a 87 cutlass supreme.
Any port below the throttle blades should work just fine. You can run it on an intake port or into the base of the carb. Youll plug in 1 for the PCV and another one for your vacuum brakes. Position doesnt matter but make sure its a direct connection for it to work right unless you have a really loopy cam that doesnt make vacuum.
I do have a stage 2 sloppy cam with a 285 duration. Is there a different way to run the vacuum line with this kind of set up?
@@mtrcyclmhm ive heard that the SS2 cam gives pretty good vacuum but in case it doesnt, you're going to need to add a vacuum pump for your brake booster or switch to hydroboost brakes. if youre worried about the PCV system not having anout vacuum, just hook it up direct and dont worry about it. If youre racing the engine, youre gonna want to run an oil catch can inbetween the PCV valve and the vacuum port on the intake/carb or else youll suck oil fumes that can cause detonation
Whats the stuck stuff?
How much horsepower with carb swap #subscribed
I have a dyno video but a dual plane carb intake loses you power compared to an EFI intake
Wats the psi on a ls
For fuel? 5.5-6.5psi
U using electric fuel pump from side of fram
Fuel pump is in the tank
Also what is a good cfm size for one of these?
It just depends on your intended application. If its race only, a 750 would be good and if its a cruiser, a 600, 650 should be fine. You can go smaller but I havnt tested it out personally.
@@NightWrencher I'm throwing it in a gen 3 Camaro I wanna run the dog shit out of it
Also I've heard both ways, can I use my t5 bell housing? From sbc can I use that clutch too? It's brand new
@@wesolintKID the flywheel for the ls 2500 trucks should have the ls bolt pattern but SBC clutch plate pattern
Ffs that plane noise ruined it 🤯
So I don’t need the engine computer to get the engine running all I need is a MSD box
Correct. MSD box or Smart Spark LS will control Ignition, carburetor will control fuel. Plug and play.
So I see these engines for like $400 at junkyard so about $1500. Do you know the best 5.3 to get? Hp wise. I have a third gen camaro z28 and trying to find the best method to get around 300-400 hp. For a decent price and also not make a headache while hooking everything up. Thanks in advance
Gen 3 LS make about 285. After you install a cam, headers and a tune, youll be around 350hp. Any 5.3 is fine if youre not trying to race it professionally. But they can also handle good boost in stock form in case you want to go turbo so there are a lot of options!
Cheers Mrnightwrencher 🍻
What heads are you using
Im using standard 706 heads. The ls1 and lq4 heads have a bigger bore so youll lose a lot of compression ratio. I would even run these on a daily 6.0
What about 241 heads on a 5-3
@@ksykes902 youll lose power because of the loss in compression. You might gain some hp back in the last 1 or 2 thousand rpm but not worth it.
@@NightWrencher thanks it normally does pretty good but I might change it back I have a mild cam in it dual-plane intake and a 750 Holley carb and the 6014 MSD box one thing I notice is I put a bout 100 miles on it it's almost like it's flooding out my carburetor my plugs were black and my carburetor I think I'm going to change the regulator you have any idea why it's burning rich
@@ksykes902 I'm guessing you dont have an AFR gauge on your car. These engines like to run lean. Anthing below 12:1 and youll lose power. You have bigger port heads so you lose intake velocity, you lost compression so the flame is colder. Lastly you have a mild cam, but youre not going to need a lot of fuel on the top end because you wont be able to breath enough air. Hit me up on instagram @thenightwrencher and i can help you dial it in.
Thats awesome definitely thinking about doing this
Its not hard if you get the right parts. My updated video has better info
Thanks for the video, very informative
Thank you so much man!
I had plenty of experience with Carburetors and they're a pain in the ass. That's why I understand why people want fuel injection. But there ain't nothing like a carburetor just it the pedal an zoom💨💨💨💨
Once you got your tune dialed in, there aint any feeling like it 👍
Don't forget the cam
I don't think you really need a cam to get it up and running. I'm sure the motor would breathe a little bit better but it's not necessary
great video, I have an ls out of 2009 silverado, would u send me a dm with a bit more specifics on the how to, thanks
I make a video like this every year, each one has more information. Type in "carb ls nightwrencher" on youtube 👍
What size carb would you say for drag race lq4 btr stage 4 cam Holly single-plane intake and be spraying nitrous at it too
I know my STOCK 5.3 did NOT like anything smaller than a 650 holley. One thing I learned while trying to tune my smaller carbs was that the CFM rating should be comparable to Throttle body size on a fuel injected car and the jets were like the injectors. Mild 5.3s and 6.0s run at least a 750 or 800. For your app I wouldnt go smaller than an 850 double pumper. If your afrs run too rich under load in the top end you might need to go bigger. I hope this helps!
Funciona Pat un l83 gen V
Solamente gen 3 y 4
I bout to drop a carburated 05 L33 in my 82 c10
Very nice! I wish I could find a junkyard L33 but everyone scoops them up
Excellent video and very Gud knowledge I subscribed instantly
Thank you so much!
this is a cool video. IMO i wouldn't go this route due to the expense and function. so your about at $1100. if you get Holleys' terminator system; assuming you have a complete motor, you basically are spending the same but get easily tunable EFI. better power, fuel mileage, throttle response and tunabilty from a laptop. still good video.
You know, I dont disagree at all! Although I don't regret going carb, a part of me wonders if I would be happier going efi lol
I purchased my 5.3 complete with PCM wiring harness and everything and it's still there waiting for me in case I decide to go back lol
..I don't want tunability from a laptop...I want a mechanical setup that doesn't require a laptop for anything...
@@dyer2cycle tunning from laptop is time consuming
@@diduck6878 ..it's not whether it's time consuming or not...I want something simple, mechanical, and something that doesn't require a computer...I guess I am sick of everything in life relying on a computer..enough already...life has become a computer overload...
Great video
Very good information. Keep-a-hammerin
Seems a backwards step, till you have to pay a tuner
How would u control ur tranny ?
The ignition controllers dont control transmissions so your options are to buy a seperate transmission controller or use an older style transmission
I have a question if you don’t care. I have a 1993 K1500 4x4. I’m looking to swap from a 4.3 TBI to a 4.8/5.3 Vortec. Would it be possible to run my factory computer, Throttle Body, and injectors for the swap. If what I’ve researched is correct. I can use an adapter to run the throttle body on the carb intake. Would the MSD Harness still work with this idea? I really want to keep my truck as simple as possible.
Sorry, I forgot to mention that the throttle body and the injectors are the same between the 4.3, 5.0, and 5.7 TBI engines. So they should provide enough fuel, but I’ve been told that the fuel pump is borderline inadequate. Figure I would up it to a higher pressure vortec pump.
Thats a pretty neat idea, but here are some issues that you will run against. The 4.8/5.3 dont have distributors, so you would still need to find a way to fire off the coils. You could use the stock computer to run the injectors and tbi unit, but you still have the problem of running a v6 computer on a v8 without the correct sensors as triggers for the injectors. Honestly its better to get yourself a 6014 if youre going to go carb. Engine runs super smooth and has pleanty of powet eveb with the tiny carb I have on it. If not, full EFI is just as good! Good luck!
Distributor never crossed my mind! Dang it, oh well. Thank you for the response. I’m still researching my options. Due to my trucks age everything is still mechanical with the exception of the fuel system. Everything I’m reading is pointing towards me going with a carb. I Was trying to keep the fuel injection. However, I don’t want the added expense of a stand alone ECM. Or, the expense of swapping gauge clusters, trans., etc. Just to keep the fuel injection. One last question please. Am I right that I can use a mid rise dual plane carb intake for a LS1 on a 4.8/5.3? I know the fuel injection intakes will. I haven’t found any information on the Carb intake though. Thank you again!
Cameron Holt the amount of cash to convert to your efi would be better used to put the ls efi in it the tbi stuff is a waste of time even with bigger injectors my truck is barely over maybe 210 hp and that’s with a bigger fuel pump and all the bullshit tbi mods you’d be better off putting a carb on and being done
This comment was hidden from me for some reason. The LS1 has the same intake ports as a 4.8 5.3 6.0 so any intake made for an LS1 will fit on the others. sorry for the late response, I hope it helps!
Very informative!
Thank you very much!
Very informative
Thanks so much man!
Good info, well done
Thank you so much! I appreciate it!
THANK YOU
You're welcome buddy 👍
Haha didn’t have to apologize for the plane I thought it was going by my house😂
Big fan
Only the finest quality 👌
Not bad!
be careful running an engine off the heads if its cold outside the cooling and heating effect on the valves will burn them
I've heard that as well, luckily nothing bad happened and its been running good for over a year and a half 👍
Edelbrock? I would rather have a squirt gun
Msd box is $500+ rn 💀🎃
Inflation 🤣
👍💪
Do yourself a very big favor and take that fancy fuel filter off and Chuck it as far as you can them filters have burnt down more vehicles then you can count for one they loosen up and leak and for another one they hit anything they crack and leak I watched my buddy 67 Chevelle burnt down because of that filter and know of two others so you can do what you want but for me no way what I have that junk on my vehicle
Check out my latest carb conversion video. I was only using that filter as an adapter to go from stock 5/16 to 3/8. After I finished redoing all my lines, that filter went away.
#1 Don't!!!!
Lmao 🤣🤣
Yep makes no sense to me why you would go back in time and lose power and fuel economy.
@@701garage in most cases the loss of efi nets you less mpg but opens up the engine for more power NA. Look up some videos by Richard Hoffman(?) I dont remember his name exactly but most of dyno tests are dont using holley carbs because theyre more flexible in NA applications
@@NightWrencher this is 2020 nobody wants a toilet bowl on the intake
@@neilbrown82 this is 2020 and Ive got plenty of cars with EFI already, 1 or 2 with a carb wont hurt anyone :)
“I broke the oil pressure sensor but.. it doesn’t matter, you don’t need it..”
👍 exactly. The ignition box doesnt plug in so the stock sensor is worthless