I’d like to add roll your carriage manually all the way to the stops to check for smoothness; a couple of times I’ve found gunk of the v-groove that I had no idea how it got there.
Love his hair! Bryans a straight up rock star. I wanna see him head bang heavy with those awesome locks while beltin out an insane solo on a 3d printed electric guitar.
The explanation on how the hole in the eccentric nut is off center and is the reason why turning it makes a difference, was just great! Now it makes sense as I had previously thought it was tightening or loosening. Thanks!
This is a must watch. So many videos going through step by step maintenance and never mention this rather important step. My prints are solid, but ended tightening a few things!
Bro THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! This is the third video I’ve watched today. Literally anytime I need help you have a video on it. I couldn’t do it without man keep it up
There were so many dad jokes and puns and i enjoyed every single one of them. I personally have had issues with the wheels on the z axis. ill tighten the nut on either side and i find, it affect the tightness on the opposite side. i haven't really found a good system for fixing the z axis tension, just alot of back and forth on both sides until its good.
I can't tell you how you made my day!!! I have messed around with trying to stop the wobble for days. I'm new to this and it was really frustrating. After watching your video, was up and running in a snap. THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I like that when you showed the wobble you intentionally went really slow and shook it, but when you tightened it you were extremely fast and didn’t even attempt to shake it to show how tight it became.
If your turning the eccentric nut with ease, you should tighten the bolt/nylon lock nut assembly until there's a decent amount of pressure to prevent it from loosening and getting wobbly again.
As a beginner almost none of the setup video's mention the v slot wheels or they don't show and explain properly how and why you are doing this, thanks for the great explanation!
Just the video I needed. I could find plenty of places online that would tell me to adjust my wheels and tell me how, but no one would tell me what an adjusted wheel was supposed to be like. I get the same with belts. Dozens of people telling me to make them "tight" but you'd think with all the engineers out there someone would quantify what "tight" means.
I got to thank you for how the V Slot Wheels works. I was trying to figure out why one side of my bed was slightly higher than the other. It turned out that when I changed the wheels, I turned the adjustment nuts (right side print bed) the wrong way, not in the holes. I spent two days trying to figure this out until I watched this video. Thank you!
Thanks Bryan! I have been printing since February 2022. I started with an Artillery SW X2 new from Amazon. I have since increased it to 4 different machines. The latest being a used SW X2. I have been watching your channel for the last 3 months or so and really enjoy your knowledge and presentations. I was having issues with the print quality of the used SW X2, I thought I had done all the checks but missed the eccentric nut on my X axis which is way loose. Thank you for taking me back to the basics and you sound like Casey Kasem to me.
I've been printing on my CR10 for the last month looking like there's an earthquake going on. I just tightened everything, so my extruder doesn't shake off the x axis. Can't wait to see the improvement. lol Thanks for putting out this information.
Thank you! It was the middle nut that I needed to adjust. On mily Ender 5 s1, I had to put an Allen wrench on the front and lossen the lock nut at the back, 7mm I think, but just a bit so you can move the middle nut you see in the thumbnail above. Then tighten down the lock nut on the back of the carriage while holding the bolt at the front with an Allen wrench. It's a pain when it's the bottom right wheel, yes two bottom wheels on the Ender 5. This video helped solve my prob.
They are called V slots because if you continue the angle of each side it will show a V, the wheels are not the exact profile of the extrusion which is why you get some wear on the POM wheels (this has been physically tested) once this has worn to the profile of the V slot it wont wear any further
Thanks! People often say to adjust them but rarely show the process... that's why mine are now "adjusted" with an Allen key so basically too loose in a different sense.
Crazy coincidence I was just having this issue a week ago couldn't figure out what was wrong or a video to help and eventually figure out on my own that this was the problem
Hi! They're usually not going to rotate on their own. The bolt that goes through the eccentric nut (and through the wheel) has a Nyloc nut on the other side, so it stays reasonably tight. You can tighten the bolt & Nyloc nut if it seems super easy to turn the eccentric nut, though. (That part of it all is typically pretty tight from the factory).
@@BV3D That's right but you still need to adjust the excentric nut by rotating the way that you are tightening the bolt. This way you make sure you are not losening the connection!
i had this issue with my ender 3 but i didnt know how to fix it and what is this issue even named. i tried to fix it for a couple of days but this short tutorial helped me. my v wheels vere too tight and i trought that when the nut was tight then the wheel was tight but i was wrong
Great advice! What about that rubber boot on the hot end. Is it needed? Mine was damaged and I’ve left it off for the time being. Seems to still print ok. Just wondering. Thanks.
That thing is a silicone sock that fits on the heater block. It's two main uses are providing a little bit of thermal insulation to help the hot end maintain its temperature, and also to help keep filament from getting too gooped up on the heater block. They're pretty cheap, you can get like a 5-pack (or larger) on Amazon for under ten bucks. Searching for "silicone sock ender 3" or whatever printer you've got will probably turn up several. 👍
No, as it pulls the entire bed closer or futher away using tension. A to loose nut can cause your bed to swivel, as demonstrated in this video. So a correctly tensioned nut will give a straight and smooth movement.
Hey Brian, after watching your review I decided on a Sidewinder X2. Is there any way to fix the flat spots on some of the wheels, or do I just have to replace them? My printer's wheels came locked down tight and nearly all the wheels on the Y-Carriage and X-Carriage feel like they have flat spots even when loose. Any solution?
I think the flat spots eventually work their way out; in other words, once the wheel isn't being pressed super hard against the aluminum extrusion, the part that was flat will go back to its regular shape. But it can take a long time. I haven't tested to see HOW long, but that's an interesting question. I would maybe give it a week after having been adjusted to a more normal tension and see if they've gotten better.
Could you please make a video of the replacement of these wheels for the ender 3v2 and proper recalibration? I have had mine super tight not knowing any better and have ran the wheels for a long time like this…
Hi, it looks like the Ender-3 V3 KE uses smooth rods and linear bearings, instead of wheels and V-slot aluminum extrusions. So, no adjustment needed on that printer. 👍🏻
Great video man. I am using Ender 3 S1 pro and I have an issue with the Z-axis V wheels. They are unbalanced. 2 can spin free and the other is too tight. can you please make a video on correctly adjusting the V wheels on the Z axis? Thanks
Could you do I video of on the sovol sv05 cubic . Wheels on inside have nut but one on out side are to loose and have to tighten to tight to get them right I can't find a good middle 😊l
Wish I could find a quick way to adjust the bed on the ender neo max. seems like if the 3 fixed wheels are not lined up already, playing with the eccentrics will never end up with all 6 wheels adjusted. Know of a procedure to follow?
Weird Question. In my Ender 3 style printer. My X axis has 4 wheels. But one of the wheels has the nut and bolt attached reversed to the other 3? Is there a reason for that, or a mistake in the factory?
4:18 You forgot to say that there must not be any binding when you move bed forward/backward. If you feel even slightest binding, then fix it. Very often the wheels have flat spots. And need replacing to brand new. Even brand new wheels are bad sometimes. So better to buy 20-30 of them in sets, take good ones and throw away old ones or use them for other projects
SO @BV3D: Bryan Vines, I just wanted to drop you a note saying I've really enjoyed your videos over the last few years. But I need to ask. How many times to you get compared to KC Kasem because of your voice?
I've noticed that my X rail profile has some uneven surface where the third wheel touches it , is there any chance to fix that without changing the rail? Tried to fix it with this wheel adjustments but no luck
When adjusting the extruder wheel shouldn’t you make sure the extruder is straight up and down before making those adjustments? If one roller is pitched higher or lower than the other it will cause the nozzle to not be plumb correct?
Great video as always. Could I ask you a question regarding the eccentric wheels on the bed. I'm new to the 3d printing world and I've just bought my first 3D printer. It has 6 wheels. It's an anacubinc kobra plus, but guess it's the same for most printers. I'm having an issue, should all 6 wheels be slightly gripping the runners as no matter how hard I try the centre wheel on the left keeps gripping really tight although it's as loose as I can get it. Adjusting the outer wheels the centre left still gets really tight. Any help or suggestions you can give me would be greatly appreciated.
If your Z axis ones are too tight it will affect your layers. Some will over extrude because of flat spots preventing the carriage moving up. Too loose and you will get the same effect. The Z axis ones are the most crucial to get right because the layer height needs far more precision for good quality. You have to be able to turn every wheel by hand, with a little force and see it slide against the V slot without making the carriage go up or down, but not move too freely.
well my z axis came crazy right already and wont slide against . it's hard for me to bring the carriage up manually but the printer seems to be fine with it
Hello again Mr. Vines, I'm really in need of an answer to my question I've posted every everywhere I can lol. Can I put the Jyers firmware that we used for the 3v2 on the ender 3? I'll buy you a cup of coffee !!!
Hi! No need for coffee, but the answer to the question is: You can, as long as the Ender-3 you're wanting to install JyersUI meets two conditions: 1. It has a Creality v4.2.2 or 4.2.7 32-bit main board, and 2. It has the screen from an Ender-3 V2. You can get those screens on Amazon for about $40 (make sure it's the kind with the knob, and not the touch screen!): amzn.to/3rGwiUA I did this to an Ender-3 Max a while back, so I could put JyersUI on it.The Max had the required type of main board already, so all I added was the screen.
@@BV3D thank you so so much. It does have 4.2.7. Board. I'll have to purchase a screen. I have 2, one with knob that I replace on 3v2 return, it comes on but about half the screen is blk as if broken underneath. The other is new but without knob....
Oh one more thing, sorry , I'm assuming I need to install the right screen first then follow up with the switch to jyers. Do i need to flash screen when first installed?
@@alliefoster It's one of those things you kind of have to do all at once. Let's say your Ender-3 has a 4.2.2 board or a 4.2.7 board, and the regular Ender-3 screen. In that instance, the firmware on the board only knows how to talk to the regular screen. Connecting the Ender-3 V2 screen to it will result in a screen that doesn't (yet) work, and it may make an annoyingly long beep sound the entire time it's powered on. So the upgrade would go something like this: - Turn off the printer - Unplug and remove the original screen - Attach and plug in the new screen - Insert the MicroSD card containing the new firmware file into the printer - Turn on the printer (and the screen may or may not yell about it) - Wait about 20 seconds or so while the firmware updates - The printer should then finish booting normally, and will be able to talk to the screen You *_DO NOT_* need to upgrade the firmware on the screen, as far as I know. JyersUI is supposed to work just fine with the stock V2 screen. In fact there's apparently a newer model of the screen that has a different circuit board on it, and requires a different set of files to perform an update. But this does 100% require either the 4.2.2 or 4.2.7 board in the printer. Make sure your printer has that before you invest in the screen.
I think I need some more explaining please . Adjusting the "z-axis moving kit" (Ender 3v2), one has 6 wheels to check. Now keeping in mind what you've said, "adjust the wheel until slight slip" (+/-), (only the two inside wheels can adjust), leaves one of the outside wheels somewhat loose (both sides). Adjusting the inside wheel until the outside wheel/s becomes tighter until "just slips", causes the inside wheels to push much harder against the vertical extrusions, as if the z-axis extrusions are to close for the assembled kit wheel spacing. . . . or am I missing something here? . . or wheel alignment of the two sections? How?🤔
You're definitely on a roll with this video.
This comment definitely has a bearing on the subject. 😉
I’d like to add roll your carriage manually all the way to the stops to check for smoothness; a couple of times I’ve found gunk of the v-groove that I had no idea how it got there.
The best video I have seen explaining the v-wheels. Thanks!
When you first said eccentric nuts, I thought hey just like Brian 😁 Nicely explained.
As a new Ender3 owner, you have just got another subscriber. Great videos thank you!!
Love his hair! Bryans a straight up rock star. I wanna see him head bang heavy with those awesome locks while beltin out an insane solo on a 3d printed electric guitar.
The explanation on how the hole in the eccentric nut is off center and is the reason why turning it makes a difference, was just great! Now it makes sense as I had previously thought it was tightening or loosening. Thanks!
This video explains the eccentric nut and how these V-slot wheels operate better then others I have seen! thanks for this awesome video!
This is a must watch. So many videos going through step by step maintenance and never mention this rather important step. My prints are solid, but ended tightening a few things!
Thanks for the basic explanation with obvious visual confirmation. 👍 And the 'wheel good time' joke got you my sub.
Thats a detail often gets forgotten! 👍
Bro THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! This is the third video I’ve watched today. Literally anytime I need help you have a video on it. I couldn’t do it without man keep it up
Thanx Bryan! I never knew that adjustment existed. Fixed my problem in about 5 minutes.
There were so many dad jokes and puns and i enjoyed every single one of them.
I personally have had issues with the wheels on the z axis. ill tighten the nut on either side and i find, it affect the tightness on the opposite side. i haven't really found a good system for fixing the z axis tension, just alot of back and forth on both sides until its good.
I can't tell you how you made my day!!! I have messed around with trying to stop the wobble for days. I'm new to this and it was really frustrating. After watching your video, was up and running in a snap. THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I like that when you showed the wobble you intentionally went really slow and shook it, but when you tightened it you were extremely fast and didn’t even attempt to shake it to show how tight it became.
If your turning the eccentric nut with ease, you should tighten the bolt/nylon lock nut assembly until there's a decent amount of pressure to prevent it from loosening and getting wobbly again.
As a beginner almost none of the setup video's mention the v slot wheels or they don't show and explain properly how and why you are doing this, thanks for the great explanation!
Glad it helped! 😊
Just the video I needed. I could find plenty of places online that would tell me to adjust my wheels and tell me how, but no one would tell me what an adjusted wheel was supposed to be like. I get the same with belts. Dozens of people telling me to make them "tight" but you'd think with all the engineers out there someone would quantify what "tight" means.
I got to thank you for how the V Slot Wheels works. I was trying to figure out why one side of my bed was slightly higher than the other. It turned out that when I changed the wheels, I turned the adjustment nuts (right side print bed) the wrong way, not in the holes. I spent two days trying to figure this out until I watched this video. Thank you!
Thanks Bryan! I have been printing since February 2022. I started with an Artillery SW X2 new from Amazon. I have since increased it to 4 different machines. The latest being a used SW X2. I have been watching your channel for the last 3 months or so and really enjoy your knowledge and presentations. I was having issues with the print quality of the used SW X2, I thought I had done all the checks but missed the eccentric nut on my X axis which is way loose. Thank you for taking me back to the basics and you sound like Casey Kasem to me.
and suddenly, one year later, a bearded man changes my printing life
This is a good reminder, I haven't checked my wheel adjustment for about 6 months.
Can you do a video on installing and setting up Klipper on a 3V2
very cool, taking the mystery out of all these confusing parts, thank you
Very informative and entertaining! I for one thoroughly enjoy your jokes!Seriously keep them coming! Third wheel....just great!! 😂
Thx this helped alot, i was worried that i had to buy new wheels but i just adjust it and it was fixed.
Thanks Bryan for all the tips. Love your channel. Keep up with the amazing clips and all of the best, Regards from South Africa, Cape Town.
Awesome info, need to go and buy size 10 wrench first thing tomorrow
I've been printing on my CR10 for the last month looking like there's an earthquake going on. I just tightened everything, so my extruder doesn't shake off the x axis. Can't wait to see the improvement. lol Thanks for putting out this information.
Just what I needed and in a simple to understand quick video! Thanks as always!
Thank you! It was the middle nut that I needed to adjust. On mily Ender 5 s1, I had to put an Allen wrench on the front and lossen the lock nut at the back, 7mm I think, but just a bit so you can move the middle nut you see in the thumbnail above. Then tighten down the lock nut on the back of the carriage while holding the bolt at the front with an Allen wrench. It's a pain when it's the bottom right wheel, yes two bottom wheels on the Ender 5. This video helped solve my prob.
They are called V slots because if you continue the angle of each side it will show a V, the wheels are not the exact profile of the extrusion which is why you get some wear on the POM wheels (this has been physically tested) once this has worn to the profile of the V slot it wont wear any further
They also wear out because of radius difference in contact area
POM wheels? is the wear a breaking in period, how does it affect the quality?
great vid bryan, this helped me with my jerk issues 🤙
Wheelie good info. Thanks for sharing. 👍🏻
Haha! You bet! 😀
You beautiful bearded man! I did not realise the screw hole was not centred in the nut, so I can adjust it!
amazing video, well narrated, truly professional
Thanks! People often say to adjust them but rarely show the process... that's why mine are now "adjusted" with an Allen key so basically too loose in a different sense.
Crazy coincidence I was just having this issue a week ago couldn't figure out what was wrong or a video to help and eventually figure out on my own that this was the problem
i was just talking to my coworker about how my bed is wobbly.
found this video and viola! no more wobbly bed!
who you calling an eccentric nut, buddy? great explanations Bryan!
One of the most important steps next to bed leveling
Excellent video, dude!
Thanks I never new about the offset nut thing on the wheel mount spent frustating day untill i saw your video
Another excellent and clearly articulated video from the BV3D channel.
Question: once adjusted can it, and should it be locked in place? Thanks for the tutorial
Hi! They're usually not going to rotate on their own. The bolt that goes through the eccentric nut (and through the wheel) has a Nyloc nut on the other side, so it stays reasonably tight. You can tighten the bolt & Nyloc nut if it seems super easy to turn the eccentric nut, though. (That part of it all is typically pretty tight from the factory).
I’ve always seen locknut used on these, but just wear and tear makes for the occasional need for adjusting
@@BV3D That's right but you still need to adjust the excentric nut by rotating the way that you are tightening the bolt. This way you make sure you are not losening the connection!
I was wondering if I did it right. Of course I didn't yoo tight. Thanks for sharing
😁 you made me smile and learn keep it up.
AHAHAHA I liked the third wheel joke! Thank you for a fun, informative video!
This explains why I kept trying to tighten the wheels and they kept being loose again haha. Didn't realize how the tightening process works.
i had this issue with my ender 3 but i didnt know how to fix it and what is this issue even named. i tried to fix it for a couple of days but this short tutorial helped me. my v wheels vere too tight and i trought that when the nut was tight then the wheel was tight but i was wrong
I really need to try and print that Mando Helmet.
Great advice! What about that rubber boot on the hot end. Is it needed? Mine was damaged and I’ve left it off for the time being. Seems to still print ok. Just wondering. Thanks.
That thing is a silicone sock that fits on the heater block. It's two main uses are providing a little bit of thermal insulation to help the hot end maintain its temperature, and also to help keep filament from getting too gooped up on the heater block. They're pretty cheap, you can get like a 5-pack (or larger) on Amazon for under ten bucks. Searching for "silicone sock ender 3" or whatever printer you've got will probably turn up several. 👍
Thanks! Your video was such a help assembling my Voxelab Aquila X2! Keep up the great work!
concise and informative, great job! Worth a subscribe.
You’re freaking awesome, thanks man!
Great presentation style.
Great tip, thanks for sharing.
wonderful video thanks, really appreciate the tips !
Ha need to send you a pic , sure you'll enjoy this print.
HI John, send it to bv3dchannel@gmail.com 👍
Thanks! I assume you need to lock it down with the other nut and screw after you're done?
Thanks for this great tip. Will the different angles cause the track to be not exactly perpendicular to the “dolly”?
No, as it pulls the entire bed closer or futher away using tension. A to loose nut can cause your bed to swivel, as demonstrated in this video. So a correctly tensioned nut will give a straight and smooth movement.
so how often do you think that you have to replace the wheels as suppose to just making the tightening adjustments .?
Great jokes, puns, and information.
Hey Brian, after watching your review I decided on a Sidewinder X2. Is there any way to fix the flat spots on some of the wheels, or do I just have to replace them? My printer's wheels came locked down tight and nearly all the wheels on the Y-Carriage and X-Carriage feel like they have flat spots even when loose. Any solution?
I think the flat spots eventually work their way out; in other words, once the wheel isn't being pressed super hard against the aluminum extrusion, the part that was flat will go back to its regular shape. But it can take a long time. I haven't tested to see HOW long, but that's an interesting question. I would maybe give it a week after having been adjusted to a more normal tension and see if they've gotten better.
@@BV3D Alrighty thanks, will try!
Super practical explanation.
But in addition to those x axis and y axis rollers you should have included the rollers on the z axis as well!
same procedure
Could you please make a video of the replacement of these wheels for the ender 3v2 and proper recalibration? I have had mine super tight not knowing any better and have ran the wheels for a long time like this…
Over time my slot wheels got loose on my ender 3 and started impacting my print quality. This process is 100% how I tightened them all.
Excellent Thank you for this
so if the wheels develop flat spots, is there any recourse but to replace them?
thanks boss.
On point video, also on the advice ...
Just what I need, thanks
Hi were is the excentric nut on the ender 3 v3 ke please xx
Hi, it looks like the Ender-3 V3 KE uses smooth rods and linear bearings, instead of wheels and V-slot aluminum extrusions. So, no adjustment needed on that printer. 👍🏻
Do you tighten or loosen the non eccentric nuts??
Great video man. I am using Ender 3 S1 pro and I have an issue with the Z-axis V wheels. They are unbalanced. 2 can spin free and the other is too tight. can you please make a video on correctly adjusting the V wheels on the Z axis? Thanks
hi, thanks for your video. in my printer, the front of the bed is lower than the back, ender 3 v2, what can I do?
EXCELLENT video!!!!
Thanks that's really helpful.
Thank you Sir you have really helped me so much i greatly appreciate it
Could you do I video of on the sovol sv05 cubic . Wheels on inside have nut but one on out side are to loose and have to tighten to tight to get them right I can't find a good middle 😊l
Wish I could find a quick way to adjust the bed on the ender neo max. seems like if the 3 fixed wheels are not lined up already, playing with the eccentrics will never end up with all 6 wheels adjusted. Know of a procedure to follow?
Weird Question. In my Ender 3 style printer. My X axis has 4 wheels. But one of the wheels has the nut and bolt attached reversed to the other 3? Is there a reason for that, or a mistake in the factory?
Hi, what is the make & model of your printer? I'm kind of curious about how that's set up.
What is the sequence for beds with 6 Y axis wheels where the centre eccentric nut is on the opposite side to the others?
4:18
You forgot to say that there must not be any binding when you move bed forward/backward.
If you feel even slightest binding, then fix it. Very often the wheels have flat spots. And need replacing to brand new.
Even brand new wheels are bad sometimes. So better to buy 20-30 of them in sets, take good ones and throw away old ones or use them for other projects
Thanks very helpful
SO @BV3D: Bryan Vines, I just wanted to drop you a note saying I've really enjoyed your videos over the last few years. But I need to ask. How many times to you get compared to KC Kasem because of your voice?
Haha! It's happened a few times. 😉
I've noticed that my X rail profile has some uneven surface where the third wheel touches it , is there any chance to fix that without changing the rail?
Tried to fix it with this wheel adjustments but no luck
When adjusting the extruder wheel shouldn’t you make sure the extruder is straight up and down before making those adjustments?
If one roller is pitched higher or lower than the other it will cause the nozzle to not be plumb correct?
Great video as always.
Could I ask you a question regarding the eccentric wheels on the bed. I'm new to the 3d printing world and I've just bought my first 3D printer. It has 6 wheels. It's an anacubinc kobra plus, but guess it's the same for most printers. I'm having an issue, should all 6 wheels be slightly gripping the runners as no matter how hard I try the centre wheel on the left keeps gripping really tight although it's as loose as I can get it. Adjusting the outer wheels the centre left still gets really tight. Any help or suggestions you can give me would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you again sir, great info as always.
Thanks
If your Z axis ones are too tight it will affect your layers. Some will over extrude because of flat spots preventing the carriage moving up. Too loose and you will get the same effect. The Z axis ones are the most crucial to get right because the layer height needs far more precision for good quality. You have to be able to turn every wheel by hand, with a little force and see it slide against the V slot without making the carriage go up or down, but not move too freely.
well my z axis came crazy right already and wont slide against . it's hard for me to bring the carriage up manually but the printer seems to be fine with it
What happens if tightening the eccentric nut still results in a wobble? I have experienced with my cr-10s
Great vid!
thanks dude
Happy to help!
Hello again Mr. Vines, I'm really in need of an answer to my question I've posted every everywhere I can lol. Can I put the Jyers firmware that we used for the 3v2 on the ender 3? I'll buy you a cup of coffee !!!
Hi! No need for coffee, but the answer to the question is: You can, as long as the Ender-3 you're wanting to install JyersUI meets two conditions:
1. It has a Creality v4.2.2 or 4.2.7 32-bit main board, and
2. It has the screen from an Ender-3 V2.
You can get those screens on Amazon for about $40 (make sure it's the kind with the knob, and not the touch screen!): amzn.to/3rGwiUA
I did this to an Ender-3 Max a while back, so I could put JyersUI on it.The Max had the required type of main board already, so all I added was the screen.
@@BV3D thank you so so much. It does have 4.2.7. Board. I'll have to purchase a screen. I have 2, one with knob that I replace on 3v2 return, it comes on but about half the screen is blk as if broken underneath. The other is new but without knob....
Oh one more thing, sorry , I'm assuming I need to install the right screen first then follow up with the switch to jyers. Do i need to flash screen when first installed?
@@alliefoster It's one of those things you kind of have to do all at once. Let's say your Ender-3 has a 4.2.2 board or a 4.2.7 board, and the regular Ender-3 screen. In that instance, the firmware on the board only knows how to talk to the regular screen. Connecting the Ender-3 V2 screen to it will result in a screen that doesn't (yet) work, and it may make an annoyingly long beep sound the entire time it's powered on.
So the upgrade would go something like this:
- Turn off the printer
- Unplug and remove the original screen
- Attach and plug in the new screen
- Insert the MicroSD card containing the new firmware file into the printer
- Turn on the printer (and the screen may or may not yell about it)
- Wait about 20 seconds or so while the firmware updates
- The printer should then finish booting normally, and will be able to talk to the screen
You *_DO NOT_* need to upgrade the firmware on the screen, as far as I know. JyersUI is supposed to work just fine with the stock V2 screen. In fact there's apparently a newer model of the screen that has a different circuit board on it, and requires a different set of files to perform an update.
But this does 100% require either the 4.2.2 or 4.2.7 board in the printer. Make sure your printer has that before you invest in the screen.
you're silly. It works. Thanks
awesome shirt man
Hey reli need some help my x axies on the right side needs to be half a mm up to be level any ideas how I can do this
In regard to the wheels on the Z-axis, What if the top wheel is looser than the bottom wheel? How do you make them equal tightness?
I think I need some more explaining please . Adjusting the "z-axis moving kit" (Ender 3v2), one has 6 wheels to check. Now keeping in mind what you've said, "adjust the wheel until slight slip" (+/-), (only the two inside wheels can adjust), leaves one of the outside wheels somewhat loose (both sides). Adjusting the inside wheel until the outside wheel/s becomes tighter until "just slips", causes the inside wheels to push much harder against the vertical extrusions, as if the z-axis extrusions are to close for the assembled kit wheel spacing. . . . or am I missing something here? . . or wheel alignment of the two sections? How?🤔