Awesome that you did a video about this, it'll really help people! Whenever I needed to adjust the stepper driver voltage on laser controllers, I would use two wires with alligator clips on both ends. One clips to the screwdriver and the other on the probe for ground. I later made wires with clips that plugs directly into the meter, which made it convenient for many tasks. Keep up the great work!
@@3DPrintSOS Hi I have just watched your video on stepper motor temps and wondered if you had done a similar exercise on the heated bed. On my Voxelab Aquilla I am consistently printing with bed setting at 60c but a quick inaccurate test with my BBQ probe laid on the bed gives a reading of around 45c. I do not have a Temp Gun as yet but it did cause me to wonder how accurate the temperature readout on the display is, also the time remaining does seem a rough guide only. Very pleased with the Voxelab Aquilla, only on my second roll of filament so far, so still a lot to learn, I am using a British made filament retailing here at £17.00 from a company 3DQF with no problems. Keep up with the videos they are very informative for and I would have been struggling without them.
Thanks for covering this! Just bought the Aquila and was wondering why the Y motor was hotter than the others, might as well turn it down a bit now I got the instructions on how to do it! Thanks again! You’re making great video’s keep it going
Thank you had issues with my extruder getting so hot it was causing jams (melting at gear) after 1 hour or so of printing went from 60c to 37c. Keep up the good work!
Thank you!! My extruder is too hot, that the filament turn soft, and are smashed by the extruder, to the point that it starts to clog... this is so helpful!!
So funny you made this video. 5 days ago I had problems with heat mainly on the extrusion stepper, which was heating up my metal extruder, and thus I had a ton of filament problems. I modeled a bracket to hold a 60mm fan on using the 2x3mm screws on the left of the extruder. No temp problems now. Let me know if you want the .stl sent to you.
@ 3DPrintSOS the Y-Axis is doing more work so to have the power to move the heavy bed (that is why the voltage was set higher and it gets hotter). sometimes lowering the current which you do when you lower the voltage that drives the current. you can get movement that is not accurate. I know you may know this but it may be worth mentioning it to people. thanks for your videos
I just wanted to take a second to say thankyou for such a detailed explanation on this subject. You have been a huge help. I have a creality Cr5pro h printer with a creality 42-34 stepper on the x axis that is wildly hot. Im rather concerned about it.
Great video! I am trying to make my 3D printers (Ender, Aquila) 24/7 capable. Sometimes they work for days or even weeks but then they fail. The most common cause is clogging because the heat works its way up to or even through the heatbreak. Titanium should delay this process but I figured out that titanium heatbreaks only contain some degree of titanium. A trusted brand, a longer hotend and perhaps water cooling may be the way to go ...
Sounds like you need to print yourself a new cooler. The stock one isn’t very good at focusing the air from the fan. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3419531 this is a good one and runs the fan in reverse. Good idea.
@@3DPrintSOS Did it this morning set all my steppers to 1v hasn't given any trouble today "So Far" had to watch your video to print ABS with it. My first ABS print is almost complete, Printing my parts for the Voron 2.4. I intend to buy. Thanks for the videos.
In my previous job I used to use 2 taig cnc table top milling machines. They used nema 23 280 oz inch motors on 3 axis. The shop in the summer would average 115°. The motors would get so hot that water would hiss away. They would run virtually nonstop for 8 hours a day. For 6 years not one instance did I ever have a problem with skipping or burn outs. Steppers have no problems working hot.
Yep. This is true. Like I mentioned a few times on the vid, I don’t think it’s a problem. However you can them down with no I’ll effect. So it a win win if you’re concerned about the heat. Otherwise, no problem. :)
@@3DPrintSOS I learned then that both volts and amps are used in a certain way through a stepper driver. To move slower and stronger holding power the motor needs more amps less volts but to go faster/rapids the motor needs less amps and more voltage. I'm curious to see if faster print speeds and rapid moves will be affected by lowering those voltages.
Awesome tutorial, thanks! I'm using an Anycubic Kobra 2 printer, and its Y axis motor is extremely loud. Will turning down the power of the Y axis help relieve the noise issue? I'll give it a shot if it's potentially going to help solve the problem.
Thanks for the video i just noticed mine were extremely hot yesterday after accidentally touching on, the extruder was at 2.2 volts might be why my filament has been getting chewed up lol, others were at 1.7-1.9. I have made them all lower now and they dont feel hot at all
Yep, that’s a great temp. I don’t think this is actually an issue. 100c is still safe, so these are running WELL within those limits. But hey, running cooler with no consequences is a win win.
Excellent video - very helpful! May I ask, did you have power running to the printer or running a filament empty print while you were doing this for proper adjustment? I just got my ceramic screwdrivers in today and am eager to get my Sunlu back up and running. It works the way it should - except the motors get so hot I can't touch them for more than a couple of seconds. Anyway, I look forward to your reply! Have a great day.
Thanks for sharing this info. I just had an issue on my Voxelab Aquila during a 4-hour print using crystal PLA from SUNLU. I came out to check the print and found that it was seriously underextruding. When I checked the extruder, it was extremely hot to the touch, so much so that it would have burned me if I left my finger on it for any length of time and the filament had softened up / melted inside the dual gear extruder I have on my Aquila. How much voltage would be considered too much voltage for the extruder motor? I figure 0.95 like you showed is a little too low, and that's why you didn't turn it down any further.
¡Muchas gracias! mis tensiones son similares, no exactas. El servicio tecnico de Voxelab me recomendó bajar aún mas los voltajes. De ese modo están muy frios, pero no sé si influyen mucho en la calidad de impresión...
so I order a cnc Arduino shield I get 2 external driver the first one I mange to burn it out and the second one my stepper was so close to cause on fire until I watch your video so thanks it was very helpful :)
I love your videos they are very informative and you are very knowledgeable thank you on that note I have a question I have an aquila x2 and the e stepper motor is not working properly when I try to print something it just turns back an forth can't figure out why it's doing this. I installed a new motor and it does the same thing thank you if you have time to give any insight.
Hmm. If you installed a new motor, its gotta be the driver? Does it do the move back and forth when you move that axis manually via the menus? Does it do it when you print a pre-sliced file from the SD?
Because I love experimenting, I'm thinking about putting the largest Nema 17 stepper motor on the Y (I have one) and adjusting accordingly. I'll have to check the ratings on the drivers, but the motor is rated for 2.1 amps. Not sure if you saw my capacitive sensor setup for the Aquila? I am getting so much better prints since doing that! Thinking about making an instructional on how to do that with a cheap opto-isolator and capacitive sensor since it would be fairly low cost.
You can use a gator clip on the postive onto the screw driver to save useing a extra hand. you can make a single wire with two gator clips if you don't have a terminal to gator clip for your meter.
im new to 3d printing and thought my y motor was broken coz of how hot it got or maybe its getting hot because of the heat bed. now I have peace of mind. might drop the voltage at some point
Please dont be fooled by those readings, those infra or laser scanner dont work well on polish surfaces like the metal on the motors. If you measure the temps with a multimeter temp probe or a termometer, you will be much more correct. Example, my laser sensor reads 45ºC on y motor, real temp with a temp probe is 65ºC. Just fyi.
my issue is the extrude is getting so hot that the filament is getting soft an it jams pushing it into the ptfe tube or right b4 it goes into the plastic that then feeds to the ptfe tube. i thought it was just the crappy plastic extruder that it came with an the cheap filament so i swapped it over to an aluminum extruder an it hadnt given me any issues until recently an its been jamming, at first i thought it was hotend jams an rebuilt the hotend countless times an finaly put a h2 hotend on it but couldn't adjust the esteps high enough for its little steppermotor so im back with the original hotend with the ptfe fix an i finally noticed it was jamming at the extruder an not the hotend after it a few times an it being obvious i started checking the temp of the extruder an its hot. i pulled it out of the enclosure an let it run an it seemed to be fine but i think its cause im printing with regular pla right now an i normally only print in pla+ so its a 20c difference in temps an i dont know if thats just been enough to cause it or what but i added a exhaust fan to the enclosure an it seems to have helped some or at least its able to finish a couple hour long print but anything longer the 4 or 5 hours it does it again so i started to make some heat sinks to put on the stepper motors but i think this might be the issue so here i am. weird my e motor is whats giving me the issue an urs was the coolest, i haven't checked the other motors to see if they are hot but its never given me a issue, a couple hotend clogs. any suggestions for firmware that will allow me to run the biqu h2 hotend, needs 932 esteps but the latest voxelab firmware only lets it go up to 930 so 2 steps less so u can imagine the frustration after going through all the trouble of printing a resin bracket to mount the h2 to the aquila just to find out the esteps dont go high enough, was still on the firmware it came with an it would only go to 260 i think so i got the newest firmware from voxelabs site an thought i had it an it stopped at 930 an i felt like adding it to the spar parts bin but i managed to pull it together an put the old hotend back on with new ptfe liner an nozzle and it prints find as long as the printer is out side of the enclosure but as soon as it goes back in its back. what is the lowest u would want to adjust the voltage for the extruder, i know u said its always the highest so u set the rest to .9 and left it at 1.4 so whats the minimum u suggest.
just checked mine an mine are way higher. i picked this machine up through voxelab ebay as a parts only machine but when it arrived it was a brand new machine an the only issue was a single bolt hole having the threads stripped out so i just cut deep threads an used a longer bolt but its been a great printer an this has just popped up recently. had others had this issue with having them really high, mine was 1.9 for the e an 1.7 for the rest. i also had trouble getting the reading off a screw driver an had to take the prob to a leg going to the pot instead of in the center of the pot so im not sure whats up with that, thought it was the screwdriver having bad conductivity so i used the prob straight off the meter to the center of the pot an nothing so not sure what the deal is on that. is this something others has had issues with an what does ppl see when they check theres. i feel like mine is really high an explains why the enclosure was always so much warmer than all my other printers enclosures.
Do stepper motors run cooler with driver is set to less steps per revolution? Do stepper motors run cooler with driver is set to less Amps? I am using Nema 23 57x57x56mm, 23HS2430B, 57BYGH056 Using DM556 Driver ZK-SMC01 stepper motor controller AC 110v to 24v Power Supply 20A Max Using on a machine that runs for hours at a time. Motors run feed screw at constant speed one direction then the other direction for 10 minutes before reversing then repeats. Driver is now set to 2.7A -1600
Hello 3DPrintSOS! I want to replace the Y-Axis 42-34 stepper motor on my Ender 3 Pro with a 42-40 stepper. The stock motor gets pretty hot and all of a sudden, it stops working, it just jerks and not rotate. So do you advise I replace with a 42-40 stepper and set the Vref to the same voltage as the Extruder motor ?? I’m not really good with all the Voltage Calculations.
Is it possible that the lower voltages would hut performance at higher print speeds or accelerations? Is this recommended to extend the stepper motor life? Is this universal to all stepper motors? Will it work on a Neptune 3 Plus?
My first Aquila I was able to follow this procedure but my new Aquila has special screws I tried many different screw drivers from my kit but can't get any of them to turn the little screws seems to be some kind of special screw driver. Do you have a source for these screw drivers.
@@3DPrintSOS All set to 0.95v. First my Y very hot, and 2nd is Z and last E. And now Y become warm much much better also Y and Z. Maybe can drop less than 0.95v? Maybe more cold :D, thank you for nice video.
You might be able to get away with less but if this solves the issue i would keep it here. Once you go too low, you could get layer skipping or quality loss. :)
What is a safe voltage window for these stepper motors? What’s too low and what’s too high? My Y axis motor is definitely very hot, in fact Ive touched my arm on it accidentally while reaching for something and I initially thought my arm touched the bed, but in fact, it was the stepper motor.
@@3DPrintSOS Also there is one thing, is it possible to place power suply from corner to ender 3 design(on free z-axis plank)??? bough silicon thing to replace bed-leveling springs
hello I have the Aquila printer for 1 week and I have problems with the printing: when it prints the plaque it extrudes it but at times and then the print is irregular, I noticed that the problem is the stepper motor that pushes the wire inside the extruder because if I bypass it and push it in, it works fine. do you have any advice on how to solve?
What temperate is your hotend at? Make sure you aren’t so close to the bed that the extruder can’t push filament. Make sure the tension on the lever arm is high enough to grab the filament but not too tight enough to squish the filament.
Never tried one of those but I think it can be formatted in the same way. I have a video on how to update the firmware on the Aquila. In that video I show how to format the sd cars. Check that vid out.
my ender 3 max likes to start ghost printing about half way through sometimes. I look and the filament only close to the extruder motor looks shinny and mushed and often completely cut. I think the motor is getting so hot it is heating the PLA to it's glassification temp and making it start to melt and deform. I dropped my current on the motor from 650 to 425 in Marlins configuration.adv.h to see if it helps any. Plus I was hearing this strange sound coming from the motors. I adjusted the current to the x and y motors too down to 410, x was getting insane hot. But my motors started sounding funny since upgrading to custom marlin 2.x
I run a cr10s from creality. I changed the board and the stepper motor are getting extremely hot. Like more than 100c and sometimes the print shots down for no apparent reason. Could that be it? Its there a way that the board could know that the motor is overheating?
I use a skr mini e3 v2, this board its meant to be used with the ender 3 which runs in a 24v sytem and the cr10s run with 12v system. So I am guessing that why the stepper motors are getting extremely hot.
The bed on my aries drops randomly then comes back up to resume print. The extruder stops as if its being paused though. What could it be? I unplugged the filament sensor thinking that was it.
My ender 3v2 was running great but suddenly when I print it stop printing and ask me if I want to resume, so I let it cool down and start again and until now it is working, could it be stepper motor overheating?
@@3DPrintSOS it didn't even finish the 1st layer, it just pause, like the power went off and on, but now it printing I just put a fan to cool down the y-axis motor , idk if that was the proplem
Why? Print quality is going to suffer. Maybe not at 50mm/sec but upgrade to Marlin or Klipper or try going over 100mm/sec and print quality is sure to take a hit. I think you're doing a diservice promugulating this idea to newbies.
Zero newbies will be on kipper and 100mm/s. That’s some advanced stuff. I appreciate your point of view though. When making any kind of diy video I’m always worried about how the info will be taken. Especially because I try to keep things as simple as possible without using big words or complexities. People should always do their own research before jumping into things like this.
@@3DPrintSOS I hear you too, but I'm noob and already looking for faster better prints! I just feel if this was the thing to do it would have been done on millions of Enders already. Love all your content though!
My stok ender 3v2 runing klipper fw vref E1.35-1.40 X 1.10 Y 1.00-1.10 Z 1.15-1.20 printing abs on enclosure ambient temp 45-50 degree just fine no layer skiping.saya just modified mainboard cover with 80×10mm fan
I know what I'm about to ask is not the subject matter. Could you do a video on how to connect a laptop directly to the Aquila, and how to print from thingiverse.com through Cura to the Aquila?
Awesome that you did a video about this, it'll really help people! Whenever I needed to adjust the stepper driver voltage on laser controllers, I would use two wires with alligator clips on both ends. One clips to the screwdriver and the other on the probe for ground. I later made wires with clips that plugs directly into the meter, which made it convenient for many tasks. Keep up the great work!
Thank you. Appreciate the pro tip. :)
@@3DPrintSOS Hi I have just watched your video on stepper motor temps and wondered if you had done a similar exercise on the heated bed. On my Voxelab Aquilla I am consistently printing with bed setting at 60c but a quick inaccurate test with my BBQ probe laid on the bed gives a reading of around 45c. I do not have a Temp Gun as yet but it did cause me to wonder how accurate the temperature readout on the display is, also the time remaining does seem a rough guide only. Very pleased with the Voxelab Aquilla, only on my second roll of filament so far, so still a lot to learn, I am using a British made filament retailing here at £17.00 from a company 3DQF with no problems.
Keep up with the videos they are very informative for and I would have been struggling without them.
That’s likely because the temperature probe is on the bottom, in the middle. So the glass surface is always going to be quite a bit lower. ;)
Thanks for covering this! Just bought the Aquila and was wondering why the Y motor was hotter than the others, might as well turn it down a bit now I got the instructions on how to do it! Thanks again! You’re making great video’s keep it going
Thank you! Glad I could help.
I’m glad you covered this. My Y axis motor gets super hot while the others are fairly reasonable. And there’s not much room for a fan back there.
Thank you had issues with my extruder getting so hot it was causing jams (melting at gear) after 1 hour or so of printing went from 60c to 37c. Keep up the good work!
Glad to hear it! Thanks
Finally!! You are my hero , Fedor. Tons of friends asked me about this....now I have a vid to point to.
💪🏻
Thank you!! My extruder is too hot, that the filament turn soft, and are smashed by the extruder, to the point that it starts to clog... this is so helpful!!
Glad I could help!
So funny you made this video. 5 days ago I had problems with heat mainly on the extrusion stepper, which was heating up my metal extruder, and thus I had a ton of filament problems. I modeled a bracket to hold a 60mm fan on using the 2x3mm screws on the left of the extruder. No temp problems now. Let me know if you want the .stl sent to you.
Just post it to thingiverse/thangs/myminifactory someone might find it useful
I'd appreciate getting my hands on that STL! Heat in UK ATM, trashing my extruder temp 😢
@ 3DPrintSOS the Y-Axis is doing more work so to have the power to move the heavy bed (that is why the voltage was set higher and it gets hotter). sometimes lowering the current which you do when you lower the voltage that drives the current. you can get movement that is not accurate. I know you may know this but it may be worth mentioning it to people. thanks for your videos
I’ll surely be watching it. So far three prints in. Zero issues. I’ll keep checking.
Been waiting for you to make this. So many people have been wanting and waiting for this video. 😁❤️
Yeah they have. Had this asked at least once a day.
I just wanted to take a second to say thankyou for such a detailed explanation on this subject. You have been a huge help. I have a creality Cr5pro h printer with a creality 42-34 stepper on the x axis that is wildly hot. Im rather concerned about it.
Me too 😂
Great video!
I am trying to make my 3D printers (Ender, Aquila) 24/7 capable. Sometimes they work for days or even weeks but then they fail. The most common cause is clogging because the heat works its way up to or even through the heatbreak. Titanium should delay this process but I figured out that titanium heatbreaks only contain some degree of titanium. A trusted brand, a longer hotend and perhaps water cooling may be the way to go ...
Sounds like you need to print yourself a new cooler. The stock one isn’t very good at focusing the air from the fan. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3419531 this is a good one and runs the fan in reverse. Good idea.
@@3DPrintSOS Thank you - I will test it out.
Why this video popped up 6 months later (glad it did) I will just get my temp gun and check it out. Thanks Fedor!
Sometimes it be like that. Haha :)
Great stuff! Haven't encountered this problem yet, but now I have a video to help if I do.
I have an aquilla but had failed prints I've noticed the extruder not turning so this was the video I needed..... Thanks
Did you get it resolved?
@@3DPrintSOS Did it this morning set all my steppers to 1v hasn't given any trouble today "So Far" had to watch your video to print ABS with it. My first ABS print is almost complete, Printing my parts for the Voron 2.4.
I intend to buy. Thanks for the videos.
Awesome. 👏🏻
This might even help reduce the power consumption of the printer by a bit. Nice and helpful, by the way.
In my previous job I used to use 2 taig cnc table top milling machines. They used nema 23 280 oz inch motors on 3 axis. The shop in the summer would average 115°. The motors would get so hot that water would hiss away. They would run virtually nonstop for 8 hours a day. For 6 years not one instance did I ever have a problem with skipping or burn outs. Steppers have no problems working hot.
Yep. This is true. Like I mentioned a few times on the vid, I don’t think it’s a problem. However you can them down with no I’ll effect. So it a win win if you’re concerned about the heat. Otherwise, no problem. :)
@@3DPrintSOS I learned then that both volts and amps are used in a certain way through a stepper driver. To move slower and stronger holding power the motor needs more amps less volts but to go faster/rapids the motor needs less amps and more voltage. I'm curious to see if faster print speeds and rapid moves will be affected by lowering those voltages.
Awesome tutorial, thanks! I'm using an Anycubic Kobra 2 printer, and its Y axis motor is extremely loud. Will turning down the power of the Y axis help relieve the noise issue? I'll give it a shot if it's potentially going to help solve the problem.
Thanks for the video i just noticed mine were extremely hot yesterday after accidentally touching on, the extruder was at 2.2 volts might be why my filament has been getting chewed up lol, others were at 1.7-1.9. I have made them all lower now and they dont feel hot at all
I was seeing about 43C on the stepper motors on Voxelab Aquila right from the box and I'm fine with that
Yep, that’s a great temp. I don’t think this is actually an issue. 100c is still safe, so these are running WELL within those limits. But hey, running cooler with no consequences is a win win.
Mine are around 85C
Excellent video - very helpful! May I ask, did you have power running to the printer or running a filament empty print while you were doing this for proper adjustment? I just got my ceramic screwdrivers in today and am eager to get my Sunlu back up and running. It works the way it should - except the motors get so hot I can't touch them for more than a couple of seconds. Anyway, I look forward to your reply! Have a great day.
You could measure temperatures at point-blank, so that IR meter "sees" only stepper motor and not any surroundings ;)
Thanks for sharing this info. I just had an issue on my Voxelab Aquila during a 4-hour print using crystal PLA from SUNLU. I came out to check the print and found that it was seriously underextruding. When I checked the extruder, it was extremely hot to the touch, so much so that it would have burned me if I left my finger on it for any length of time and the filament had softened up / melted inside the dual gear extruder I have on my Aquila. How much voltage would be considered too much voltage for the extruder motor? I figure 0.95 like you showed is a little too low, and that's why you didn't turn it down any further.
On the extruder you can keep turning it down until you get skipped steps. That’s really the only way to know if you’ve gone too low.
¡Muchas gracias! mis tensiones son similares, no exactas. El servicio tecnico de Voxelab me recomendó bajar aún mas los voltajes. De ese modo están muy frios, pero no sé si influyen mucho en la calidad de impresión...
so I order a cnc Arduino shield I get 2 external driver the first one I mange to burn it out and the second one my stepper was so close to cause on fire until I watch your video so thanks it was very helpful :)
Fire is never fun! Glad I could help.
Good stuff man! Keep pumping out the education!
Tryin :)
I love your videos they are very informative and you are very knowledgeable thank you on that note I have a question I have an aquila x2 and the e stepper motor is not working properly when I try to print something it just turns back an forth can't figure out why it's doing this. I installed a new motor and it does the same thing thank you if you have time to give any insight.
Hmm. If you installed a new motor, its gotta be the driver? Does it do the move back and forth when you move that axis manually via the menus? Does it do it when you print a pre-sliced file from the SD?
Because I love experimenting, I'm thinking about putting the largest Nema 17 stepper motor on the Y (I have one) and adjusting accordingly. I'll have to check the ratings on the drivers, but the motor is rated for 2.1 amps. Not sure if you saw my capacitive sensor setup for the Aquila? I am getting so much better prints since doing that! Thinking about making an instructional on how to do that with a cheap opto-isolator and capacitive sensor since it would be fairly low cost.
That would be cool. A lot of people would be interested.
You can use a gator clip on the postive onto the screw driver to save useing a extra hand. you can make a single wire with two gator clips if you don't have a terminal to gator clip for your meter.
So many tricks I didn’t know. Thanks!
im new to 3d printing and thought my y motor was broken coz of how hot it got or maybe its getting hot because of the heat bed. now I have peace of mind. might drop the voltage at some point
Please dont be fooled by those readings, those infra or laser scanner dont work well on polish surfaces like the metal on the motors. If you measure the temps with a multimeter temp probe or a termometer, you will be much more correct. Example, my laser sensor reads 45ºC on y motor, real temp with a temp probe is 65ºC. Just fyi.
Appreciate it.
my issue is the extrude is getting so hot that the filament is getting soft an it jams pushing it into the ptfe tube or right b4 it goes into the plastic that then feeds to the ptfe tube. i thought it was just the crappy plastic extruder that it came with an the cheap filament so i swapped it over to an aluminum extruder an it hadnt given me any issues until recently an its been jamming, at first i thought it was hotend jams an rebuilt the hotend countless times an finaly put a h2 hotend on it but couldn't adjust the esteps high enough for its little steppermotor so im back with the original hotend with the ptfe fix an i finally noticed it was jamming at the extruder an not the hotend after it a few times an it being obvious i started checking the temp of the extruder an its hot. i pulled it out of the enclosure an let it run an it seemed to be fine but i think its cause im printing with regular pla right now an i normally only print in pla+ so its a 20c difference in temps an i dont know if thats just been enough to cause it or what but i added a exhaust fan to the enclosure an it seems to have helped some or at least its able to finish a couple hour long print but anything longer the 4 or 5 hours it does it again so i started to make some heat sinks to put on the stepper motors but i think this might be the issue so here i am. weird my e motor is whats giving me the issue an urs was the coolest, i haven't checked the other motors to see if they are hot but its never given me a issue, a couple hotend clogs. any suggestions for firmware that will allow me to run the biqu h2 hotend, needs 932 esteps but the latest voxelab firmware only lets it go up to 930 so 2 steps less so u can imagine the frustration after going through all the trouble of printing a resin bracket to mount the h2 to the aquila just to find out the esteps dont go high enough, was still on the firmware it came with an it would only go to 260 i think so i got the newest firmware from voxelabs site an thought i had it an it stopped at 930 an i felt like adding it to the spar parts bin but i managed to pull it together an put the old hotend back on with new ptfe liner an nozzle and it prints find as long as the printer is out side of the enclosure but as soon as it goes back in its back. what is the lowest u would want to adjust the voltage for the extruder, i know u said its always the highest so u set the rest to .9 and left it at 1.4 so whats the minimum u suggest.
just checked mine an mine are way higher. i picked this machine up through voxelab ebay as a parts only machine but when it arrived it was a brand new machine an the only issue was a single bolt hole having the threads stripped out so i just cut deep threads an used a longer bolt but its been a great printer an this has just popped up recently. had others had this issue with having them really high, mine was 1.9 for the e an 1.7 for the rest. i also had trouble getting the reading off a screw driver an had to take the prob to a leg going to the pot instead of in the center of the pot so im not sure whats up with that, thought it was the screwdriver having bad conductivity so i used the prob straight off the meter to the center of the pot an nothing so not sure what the deal is on that. is this something others has had issues with an what does ppl see when they check theres. i feel like mine is really high an explains why the enclosure was always so much warmer than all my other printers enclosures.
Do stepper motors run cooler with driver is set to less steps per revolution?
Do stepper motors run cooler with driver is set to less Amps?
I am using Nema 23 57x57x56mm, 23HS2430B, 57BYGH056
Using DM556 Driver
ZK-SMC01 stepper motor controller
AC 110v to 24v Power Supply 20A Max
Using on a machine that runs for hours at a time. Motors run feed screw at constant speed one direction then the other direction for 10 minutes before reversing then repeats. Driver is now set to 2.7A -1600
Hello 3DPrintSOS!
I want to replace the Y-Axis 42-34 stepper motor on my Ender 3 Pro with a 42-40 stepper. The stock motor gets pretty hot and all of a sudden, it stops working, it just jerks and not rotate.
So do you advise I replace with a 42-40 stepper and set the Vref to the same voltage as the Extruder motor ??
I’m not really good with all the Voltage Calculations.
Big help, Thanks!
Glad I could help!
Thank you so much for this one!
Absolutely.
My question is that by reducing the current of driver effect the print time or not?
Is it possible that the lower voltages would hut performance at higher print speeds or accelerations?
Is this recommended to extend the stepper motor life?
Is this universal to all stepper motors? Will it work on a Neptune 3 Plus?
My first Aquila I was able to follow this procedure but my new Aquila has special screws I tried many different screw drivers from my kit but can't get any of them to turn the little screws seems to be some kind of special screw driver. Do you have a source for these screw drivers.
Really? I wasn’t aware that the screws are different. I’ll have to take a look before I can recommend something.
Thanks for the good video. But I want to ask again, to make sure every each is adjusted to 0.95?
That’s what I did but I left my extruder motor the same. As it had no heat issues.
@@3DPrintSOS All set to 0.95v. First my Y very hot, and 2nd is Z and last E. And now Y become warm much much better also Y and Z. Maybe can drop less than 0.95v? Maybe more cold :D, thank you for nice video.
You might be able to get away with less but if this solves the issue i would keep it here. Once you go too low, you could get layer skipping or quality loss. :)
What is a safe voltage window for these stepper motors? What’s too low and what’s too high? My Y axis motor is definitely very hot, in fact Ive touched my arm on it accidentally while reaching for something and I initially thought my arm touched the bed, but in fact, it was the stepper motor.
I would stick with voltages in between 1.4 and .9. Like I mentioned, these motors can run at 100c and be fine. So I wouldn’t too much.
wow you have answer even for this, great!
Btw, do you know which nema 17 are on aquila? (mean body size in mm/ marking)
I’m ready! Haha. 42mm X 42mm X 34mm
@@3DPrintSOS you are awesome! Thx again =)
@@3DPrintSOS Also there is one thing, is it possible to place power suply from corner to ender 3 design(on free z-axis plank)??? bough silicon thing to replace bed-leveling springs
You might be able to with some brackets, the mounting for the power supply is different. Nice, I hear good things about the silicone pucks
@@3DPrintSOS ok I give up, You won, no way to catch you, too pro XD
thx I'll dig into this
Which Motor driver ur using ?
hello I have the Aquila printer for 1 week and I have problems with the printing: when it prints the plaque it extrudes it but at times and then the print is irregular, I noticed that the problem is the stepper motor that pushes the wire inside the extruder because if I bypass it and push it in, it works fine. do you have any advice on how to solve?
What temperate is your hotend at? Make sure you aren’t so close to the bed that the extruder can’t push filament. Make sure the tension on the lever arm is high enough to grab the filament but not too tight enough to squish the filament.
If I add a second Z stepper in parallel what should the Vref be without damaging the driver chip?
Do you think it is possible to reduce the current on the extruder motor of a BMG clone extruder (1 : 3.3)? If so, by how much?
If it uses a Nema stepper motor, it would be the same.
I just got a 64gb scan disk black series. You do I get it to work with the Aquila?
Never tried one of those but I think it can be formatted in the same way. I have a video on how to update the firmware on the Aquila. In that video I show how to format the sd cars. Check that vid out.
interesting generalization about heat, the human touch feels hot at about 140 degrees F
Your 1st reading are almost exactly what mine read. I’m not to concerned though.
Right, I don’t think this is an issue.
my ender 3 max likes to start ghost printing about half way through sometimes. I look and the filament only close to the extruder motor looks shinny and mushed and often completely cut. I think the motor is getting so hot it is heating the PLA to it's glassification temp and making it start to melt and deform. I dropped my current on the motor from 650 to 425 in Marlins configuration.adv.h to see if it helps any. Plus I was hearing this strange sound coming from the motors. I adjusted the current to the x and y motors too down to 410, x was getting insane hot. But my motors started sounding funny since upgrading to custom marlin 2.x
Does this works for the Creality Ender 3 V2? I have issues with all steppers getting SUPER hot and Y axis stopping during a long print
Yes, it should work for the Ender as well
@@3DPrintSOS Thank you!
I run a cr10s from creality. I changed the board and the stepper motor are getting extremely hot. Like more than 100c and sometimes the print shots down for no apparent reason. Could that be it? Its there a way that the board could know that the motor is overheating?
I use a skr mini e3 v2, this board its meant to be used with the ender 3 which runs in a 24v sytem and the cr10s run with 12v system. So I am guessing that why the stepper motors are getting extremely hot.
I bet it just needs to be tuned. Check your voltages.
The bed on my aries drops randomly then comes back up to resume print. The extruder stops as if its being paused though. What could it be? I unplugged the filament sensor thinking that was it.
I’ve heard of that before but I don’t know if a solution sadly. Was this doing a wireless print or from the usb?
@@3DPrintSOS I switched to USB and it stopped. Wireless printing seems sketchy still.
Best video
Thanks!
Thanks my Y axis stepmotor was getting too hot
Ender 3 bed motor 53 Celsius normal?
My ender 3v2 was running great but suddenly when I print it stop printing and ask me if I want to resume, so I let it cool down and start again and until now it is working, could it be stepper motor overheating?
Hmm. If it’s asking you to resume, that means the file is possibly sliced with a pause code? Or filament swap?
@@3DPrintSOS it didn't even finish the 1st layer, it just pause, like the power went off and on, but now it printing I just put a fan to cool down the y-axis motor , idk if that was the proplem
can the aquila vref value be used on ender 3 v2 with nboard v4.2.2 and 24v psu?
Yep. Should be good to go with the same numbers
More from Tronxy xy-3 Se, please. Plus laser.
Trying. Honestly having tons of trouble with the dual extrusion add on. Haven’t had any prints. Might scrap it and switch to laser.
I wasn’t running into the issue of missed steps until 8 to 9 hrs in and could fry an egg on my y stepper motor
Yep, sounds like voltages
@@3DPrintSOS thanks for the great video
When you measured the z motor it read 35.7, not 45.7, 2:39
Oops. I’ll check again. I think there is a max that shows up on the bottom because the top number is live while you hold the trigger.
Who does mine say 0.01
It looks like it goes to 0.18 then it changes to 0.01
5*
Why? Print quality is going to suffer. Maybe not at 50mm/sec but upgrade to Marlin or Klipper or try going over 100mm/sec and print quality is sure to take a hit. I think you're doing a diservice promugulating this idea to newbies.
Zero newbies will be on kipper and 100mm/s. That’s some advanced stuff. I appreciate your point of view though. When making any kind of diy video I’m always worried about how the info will be taken. Especially because I try to keep things as simple as possible without using big words or complexities. People should always do their own research before jumping into things like this.
@@3DPrintSOS I hear you too, but I'm noob and already looking for faster better prints! I just feel if this was the thing to do it would have been done on millions of Enders already. Love all your content though!
It’s a thing on Enders for sure. Wish you luck dude. I’m sure you’ve seen the Voron printers? That might be the perfect machine for you. :)
My stok ender 3v2 runing klipper fw vref E1.35-1.40 X 1.10 Y 1.00-1.10 Z 1.15-1.20 printing abs on enclosure ambient temp 45-50 degree just fine no layer skiping.saya just modified mainboard cover with 80×10mm fan
Got a good reliable resource for getting klipper running?
I know what I'm about to ask is not the subject matter. Could you do a video on how to connect a laptop directly to the Aquila, and how to print from thingiverse.com through Cura to the Aquila?
That’s a great idea for a video!