This is by far the best 7th generation Honda accord throttle body cleaning video online. Not only are the instructions great but the specifics surrounding the throttle cable adjustment nut is priceless.
@@DIYAutoworksNGmy cruise control linkage broke, the plastic eye piece, so now im going to use the Dorman 977-100 kit to replace it. You are the only person I've seen that did a step by step process dealing with the 03 Honda throttle body. Much appreciated, thank you.
Super helpful! Especially the last part about removing air from coolant system. According to my mechanic, that sometimes is the root cause for idle issues. Also, rather than removing the negative battery terminal, one could also briefly remove the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) fuse in order to reset the ECU -- then do the 3000rpm idle re-learn procedure.
Watched this just to see how to take off my throttle body on my '03 Element. Need to replace my TPS and NO room while throttle body is attached. This was a very clear explanation, thanks!
Thanks a lot for sharing this, though mine is slightly different 2006 model but it really helped me out sometimes after watching these educative vids it gives us an edge over those technicians who'll want to do it anyhow
Awesome video. Definitely well explained, very good illustration and teaching. Great trick using the two bolts on the radiator hoses. I feel like I can do this job and that is what I like, to feel confident and willing to do a maintenance job on my car. I like to learn a thing or two and have a true visualization to understand what i'm doing. Great job.
Great work, I'll be doing the same operation when change the big hose from throttle body to air filter housing because has cracked in the flexing area. Thank you
I cleaned an IACU, but still had a slight surging idle issue. I then removed it and completely disassembled it, getting at the actuator (for lack of a better term) inside which wasn't spinning freely. I did a better cleaning and that stopped the slight sticking it would usually get during full rotation. The result was no more surging idle. Can't remember exactly, but I think I had to use a think cutting disc on a dremel to make slots for a flat screwdriver to get the two bolts off so I could get at the actuator.
When you say surging idle, do you mean like the rpms would increase ever so slightly then back down or do you mean like it was just a feeling you had when sitting in the drivers seat? I'm having an issue where my rpms don't move at all but literally I feel an intermittent roughness for a sec then feels normal but it's repetitive in that way. I was thinking of doing the whole cleaning of my throttle assembly. Note my 2.4l has 153k and I just did the pcv valve as well and spark plugs are healthy
@joshaguiar5487 surging would be more bouncy than the slight movements. You basically get that if when a car is misfiring. I agree cleaning your TB and IACV (if equipped) are good next steps.
Thank you for a very thorough video! I would definitely take some photos of before I detach anything. You make it look so simple. I need to get this done! Can I do it?
Thanks for the compliments! You doing it, depends on how comfortable you are with tools and working on cars. If you're just starting out with DIY, it may be better to have someone do it. An easier alternative would be cleaning it on the car... In the end, it's definitely not hard, it's just that you're the one who knows your level of competence for such a job.
Very awesome tutorial, very basic tools and precise descriptions. Thanks man👏🏽. My Honda Accord 2006, stalls while accelerating from idle before it surges forward after about 3-4seconds, Do u think this procedure could fix that for me? Any other possible suggestions too?
Great video and I can compliment you enough. However, I'll like to confirm if Carb cleaner can replace Throtle body dedicated cleaner as used in this video. Especially on an electronically controlled throttle box (I have a 2005 V6 accord). Thanks
Thanks mate! Throttle body cleaner is best for use on throttle bodies. Carb cleaner is a hasher chemical and can remove the protective coating that some throttle bodies have. I used carb cleaner because I just couldn't get throttle body cleaner at the time.
Hi, This is an awesome video. My Honda accord 2006 experiences unsteady idle while running and stalls when AC is put on or car comes to a stop. Fuel filters, Fuel pumps, plugs and coils have been checked and car pops no error code. Any ideas of where to look?
How was the fast idle after you did this? On my 96 Honda Civic EX A/T there seems to be a weird combination of mechanical/ECU control where the fast idle is entirely at the mercy of the bimetallic spring and its current state of calibration (or lack thereof) and that is apparently set at the factory but I believe as the IACV gets old it can get out of whack and require adjustment of the range plate by loosening those two screws that are in slotted holes on the range plate. Also, I noticed you didn't remove the electrical coils so that you could rotate the valve shaft over its full range back and forth while cleaning to make sure that it is fully freed up. There is also a test to do where you make sure that +12V across the close terminal and open terminal works properly to fully close and open the valve. Thanks for the video. These service manuals are not really explaining this stuff fully any more probably because they just want to sell us expensive replacement parts.
I did the idle relearn procedure immediately, so idle was same as before. Yea, I generally don't do the aggressive service. I just clean and put it back. I hear you! These companies hide as much as they can. You can't even get service manuals for the recent Honda🙄 Thanks for the compliment! Thanks for the compliment!
Both Drive-by-cable and by-wire are computer controlled. The main difference is that DBW which are electronically controlled are able to manage very fine adjustments of the throttle body butterfly plate, thus there isn't a need for an IACV.
I have a 2007 Honda accord with throttle cable. Please reconfirm your information about Honda switching to drive by wire for the Honda accords and at what year.
Do you think that cruise control linkage piece could be changed without taking the throttle body off? The black plastic eye that holds the end of the cable snaps over time due to heat. Dorman makes a replacement kit, im just curious if I need to remove the throttle body to do the repair? Thanks for the video
@@DIYAutoworksNG thanks anyway, yeah theres room to take the nut holding the linkage off but the springs and linkage itself would come off the throttle body blind. Oh well, I need to clean the throttle body anyways. Thanks for all the vids
You took care not to get carb cleaner on the electrical components for the iacv, but you didn't take the same care not to get carb cleaner into the opening for your map sensor. I learned that mistake the hard way
There is. Its the green thing you see on the rear face of the throttle body. Since I didn't have a replacement, I opted to leave it in place and not bother separating it from the throttle body.
Nope. Car may run rough for something till the ECU relearns the idle. I've observed on some Toyota, depending on how you drive, you may have a higher idle speed than normal. I've noticed it's less of an issue with Honda for example.
No IACV on the 2008 CRV as I believe Honda switched to DBW throttle body's in 2006. You cracked me up with the next video. But seriously, I should have done better. I now place a sheet of carton to catch the dirt. I used it in this other throttle body cleaning video th-cam.com/video/AsHA_lpCt64/w-d-xo.html
It's worth a shot. Could also be caused by excessive EGR buildup, dirty throttle body, a restricted MAF or intake leak. Good to also rule out poor contacts etc in the IACV wiring/connector. Generally, because of the close relationship with the EGR, if you go the cleaning route, it makes sense to clean the 3 if buildup is suspected.
Where is the mass airflow sensor on this car? Mine is exactly the same and most videos on TH-cam have it located right on top of the air filter box. Not sure where mine is so this would be very helpful info for me. Ty for your time.
"Great job, but it seems you didn’t completely remove the IAC from the body itself. The stepper motor is connected to a butterfly valve inside the housing, which is likely full of carbon buildup. This buildup can prevent the valve from opening and closing smoothly. There is a shaft on the IAC unit that has a metal plate that is probably fully of excess gum in which it needs to be cleaned. You didnt do that. I encountered the same issue on my car and found that cleaning it thoroughly made a big difference."
Currently i am having issues with my 2008 honda accord 2.0 engine, it's hard to start and the acceleration does not get past 3500, scanning it brings a P0365 code, i have changed the camshaft sensor, but still have same issue. I need your help 12:33
Other causes of a P0365 apart from the CPS include, a faulty starter, weak battery and shorts or poor contacts either in the CPS or starting system circuit. Can you describe the hardstarting you're having?
My MAF sensor is placed differently. But my biggest question is how difficult was it to remove the screws that was holding the IAC to the throttle body
Unfortunately they were crazy rusted on. I did the dremel slice so it'd accept a big flat head, after that didn't work I used the dremel to slice the head off the screw, and then had to work it back and forth finally getting it past the rust and off. Picked up some new stainless Allen heads bolts so never again! Btw, they're M5 coarse
Is it the same Honda you are working on? Are you referring to the black gasket I peeled off in the video or something else? Knowing the exact model and year you are working on will help. That said, usually there's a gasket/o-ring between the IACV & throttle body.
@@DIYAutoworksNG it’s a 2003 Honda Element. I’m referring to a round O- ring not the gasket you peeled off. I didn’t see that you had one in yours. The prong is broken. I’m not sure if there a replacement. That being said, I couldn’t get the iAC valve off since the screws are sealed. Now I put it back together without the o ring but my car won’t start now
Thanks for coming back. Still trying to ascertain the location of the o-ring in question. Did this fall off when you separated the throttle body from the engine? Since you said you were not able to loosen the IACV, I'm a bit confused on the black part you took off. Is it the black electrical part where the IACV connector bolts into? The one that's held by torx screws? The part I refer to above was not removed in my procedure. Either way, the o-ring will have to be replaced. I would imagine that it's absence is causing a significant vacuum leak that has resulted in the no-start condition.
@@DIYAutoworksNG thank you for getting back to me. Yes it’s the black part with the magnetic rotating thing, I used a torn screw to take it off. I think the o ring fell out when I took that off but not sure. I figured out why it didn’t start. For some reason the battery was drained. I still get high idle while only in park which is why I was trying to clean it
It should be around $350-$450 USD, for a brand new OEM replacement. However it depends on where you get the part from. By the way there shouldn't be a need for a replacement, you can just clean and follow the procedures and it'll work just as new. Definitely beats replacing the whole part.
Should I do this to the same car if it the idle Is rough first thing in the morning and at times car switches off wen I put into drive or even rev it and let go.thanks
Could be a number of things, is the check engine light on? If its not, depending on when last you did so, try to do a general tune up cleaning the throttle body inclusive. Others include MAP, MAF sensors etc.
@@DIYAutoworksNG i can’t find the right part the one that’s in there now looks like the one for a auto but mine is manual can the throttle body from a auto be put on a manual?
Just checked and the AT and Mt have different part numbers. See www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~throttle~body~assy~16400-raa-a13.html?vin=&make=Honda&model=Accord&year=2004&submodel=&extra1=4%20Door%20LX&extra2=KA%205AT&filter=()
It did, although the IACV still didn't pass the bidirectional test. I think that big piece of debris I pulled from it, wore out the actuator, though it hasn't yet reached the threshold for tripping a code.
Does anyone know where the hell anyone can find accurate info on the CRV 2014 2.4L petrol engines I am having real difficulty finding support. I an experiencing a low labouring feeling shaky idle. The IAC is NOT serviceable. It is a sealed unit. I am. Good plug. Good coil packs. New air filter. 80k km I got injectors serviced thinking could be them... Cleaned MAF cleaned MAP. With MAF cleaner. Throttle body clean. This is THE MOST frustrating car experience i have had to date. Regarding idle. I find it highly disappointing. The information is just not at all discussed. It is like no one knows how to diagnose this problem with the sealed IAC units. Sorry. But its BS. i have run by several mechanics. Lucky i havnt so far paid them for any opinions. It shouldn't be so difficult to find a video on the K24Zs IAC if it can be cleaned somehow. I have a late model 2014 CRV so i was told by dealer going off VIN # that its considered a 2015 model. It doesn't help a thing to know this. THE MOST FRUSTRATING car experience to date. I've had v6 Holden's. An Ls1 v8 Holden Calais Vx. A Toyota diesel rav4. This CRV is a piece of JUNK. The fact they hide the PCV assembly line UNDER the intake manifold. Like real helpful everything is hammed into the tightest stupidest places. It is a joke to work on. So unpleasant. Like no bonnet struts. A piece of junk weak feeling bonnet support. While you struggle to look at ans identify anything you work on under the ridiculously tight packed engine bay... A low idle that shakes the door and window if it's partially down. Sitting at about 550-600 RPM AND. no one online covers it. No service information is available genuine information. Mechanics have told me. No fault code will show up for the IAC. It's like. Come onnnnnn... You can't check a pcv hose right to its source. Without removing the whole intake manifold!? And a non serviceable IAC assembly. Gee. That's handy guys. Bravo... Just throw away shit. And no proper objective way to test this joke of an idle system. Just guess with parts. That's all these dealerships will be doing. If you're dumb enough to take to them. I've NEVER EVER had a car so disappointing. It's drive ability. The standard shocks were way too stiff. Poor sway system really. Poor performance on highways long trips suck. No cruising power. Gearing sucks. It can't handle variable loads even at highway speeds like 110/100 km. Any slight inclines even if drawn out. It can't make pick-up from 5th. You will have to manually use sports mode and kick down to at least 3rd. It just don't match any of it. Engine size to weight and gearing. It all just totally totally blows. It's annoying as to put up with and the IAC for me. Being sealed and no info. That does it for me. For sale guys. Back to Toyota for me. Forget Honda CRVs They're underpowered for the size and shape. They have annoying featurea like CMBS braking. Can turn off but still just stupid. What. A brake system and seat belt tensioner system. That scares you by braking when u don't even need it to. Lane keep assist. Who needs it. Just drive. Properly. Oh. It also makes a hard uncomfortable feeling of a shift. That I've been told by 3 auto trans guys. IS NOT a trans problems. But. Hill stop assist OR a problem with the ABS related to hill stop assist. Slightest incline. Not needed. What does it do or feel like shit that's what. Not a smooth take off. A hard bump that makes u think of feel u got yourself an auto trans problem like a TORQUE convertor issue. Not unlocking... Or a shift solenoid issue. Like valve body blocked. Pressure problems or something. It's just got LEMON! written all over it.
I actually love working on my car! Also, throttle bodies will always get dirty. I don't think it's feasible replacing a throttle body each time it gets dirty.
Yeah, I definitely agree. Theres no point in replacing the entire mechanism especially since it does need frequent servicing regardless if its new or 15 years old. Also they said $60 brand new?😂 where in the world. These parts go for a couple hundred bucks minimum.@@DIYAutoworksNG
@@DIYAutoworksNG I definitely did! Thank you How does that foul the system? How can I correct it? I did not take care to set the throttle cables the exact tension they were I thought that the cables and adjustment nuts were … adjustable
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
This is by far the best 7th generation Honda accord throttle body cleaning video online. Not only are the instructions great but the specifics surrounding the throttle cable adjustment nut is priceless.
Thanks, and you're welcome!
agreed!
Can you help service mine @ Edo State @@DIYAutoworksNG
I like the fact that you name the " Parts " when disembling 👍👍
Thanks!
I’ve seen multiple videos related to poor idle and this is the best one, great job!!
Thanks a lot for the feedback!
Awesome video. Very thorough and clear. I really appreciate you taking the time to make this.
Thanks a lot!
@@DIYAutoworksNGmy cruise control linkage broke, the plastic eye piece, so now im going to use the Dorman 977-100 kit to replace it. You are the only person I've seen that did a step by step process dealing with the 03 Honda throttle body. Much appreciated, thank you.
Super helpful! Especially the last part about removing air from coolant system. According to my mechanic, that sometimes is the root cause for idle issues. Also, rather than removing the negative battery terminal, one could also briefly remove the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) fuse in order to reset the ECU -- then do the 3000rpm idle re-learn procedure.
Thanks!
Yep. You got it on removing the ECU fuse!
Or perhaps use a scan tool to reset?
Watched this just to see how to take off my throttle body on my '03 Element. Need to replace my TPS and NO room while throttle body is attached. This was a very clear explanation, thanks!
Thanks!
I need to do this on my 2003 Element!
Thanks a lot for sharing this, though mine is slightly different 2006 model but it really helped me out sometimes after watching these educative vids it gives us an edge over those technicians who'll want to do it anyhow
Thanks mate! Especially quacks who destroy cars.
Excellent video, clear instructions. And you didn't forget to relearn throttle! 👍
Thanks! 👍🏼
This was EXCELLENT!! Thank you for such a thorough and good overview and FIX.
You're welcome!
Awesome video. Definitely well explained, very good illustration and teaching. Great trick using the two bolts on the radiator hoses. I feel like I can do this job and that is what I like, to feel confident and willing to do a maintenance job on my car. I like to learn a thing or two and have a true visualization to understand what i'm doing. Great job.
Thanks mate. Very glad you found it useful. Super!
Best video, professionally edited thank you so much 🤙
Many thanks! 👊🏼
Great work, I'll be doing the same operation when change the big hose from throttle body to air filter housing because has cracked in the flexing area. Thank you
Thanks!!! Good plan you have. My throttle is now so much more responsive.
Great video, clear and to the point no nonsense 👍🏾
Thanks!
I cleaned an IACU, but still had a slight surging idle issue. I then removed it and completely disassembled it, getting at the actuator (for lack of a better term) inside which wasn't spinning freely. I did a better cleaning and that stopped the slight sticking it would usually get during full rotation. The result was no more surging idle.
Can't remember exactly, but I think I had to use a think cutting disc on a dremel to make slots for a flat screwdriver to get the two bolts off so I could get at the actuator.
Bravo! 👌🏼
When you say surging idle, do you mean like the rpms would increase ever so slightly then back down or do you mean like it was just a feeling you had when sitting in the drivers seat? I'm having an issue where my rpms don't move at all but literally I feel an intermittent roughness for a sec then feels normal but it's repetitive in that way. I was thinking of doing the whole cleaning of my throttle assembly. Note my 2.4l has 153k and I just did the pcv valve as well and spark plugs are healthy
Surging as in the engine speed varies.
@joshaguiar5487 surging would be more bouncy than the slight movements. You basically get that if when a car is misfiring. I agree cleaning your TB and IACV (if equipped) are good next steps.
@DIYAutoworksNG alright thank you. Guess that'll be this weekends plans lol
had my plastic cruise control connector on the throttle body dry rot and break.... ty will make replacing throttle body much easier
Hello sorry, are you asking if it will be easier to replace the TB given that the cruise control connector is broken?
Thank you for a very thorough video! I would definitely take some photos of before I detach anything. You make it look so simple. I need to get this done! Can I do it?
Thanks for the compliments!
You doing it, depends on how comfortable you are with tools and working on cars. If you're just starting out with DIY, it may be better to have someone do it. An easier alternative would be cleaning it on the car...
In the end, it's definitely not hard, it's just that you're the one who knows your level of competence for such a job.
Supper help,i have 2006 model i was looking for this all along
Great to know. Thanks!
This video just made my day... thanks so much bro
You're welcome
Very awesome tutorial, very basic tools and precise descriptions. Thanks man👏🏽. My Honda Accord 2006, stalls while accelerating from idle before it surges forward after about 3-4seconds, Do u think this procedure could fix that for me? Any other possible suggestions too?
Thanks for the compliment. I suggest scanning the car to get a sense of any underlying codes.
@@DIYAutoworksNG okay, will do. Thanks
Thank you so much. Great instructional video.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video and I can compliment you enough.
However, I'll like to confirm if Carb cleaner can replace Throtle body dedicated cleaner as used in this video. Especially on an electronically controlled throttle box (I have a 2005 V6 accord).
Thanks
Thanks mate!
Throttle body cleaner is best for use on throttle bodies. Carb cleaner is a hasher chemical and can remove the protective coating that some throttle bodies have. I used carb cleaner because I just couldn't get throttle body cleaner at the time.
Very impressive. I would not dare to take apart the throttle body and can't put it back together. I just clean with the throttle body attached
Thanks. One step at a time. Cleaning on vehicle is also good!
Wow gets straight to the point. Great video
Many thanks!
Never disappoint, thank you sir🙏
Thanks!
Hi,
This is an awesome video.
My Honda accord 2006 experiences unsteady idle while running and stalls when AC is put on or car comes to a stop.
Fuel filters, Fuel pumps, plugs and coils have been checked and car pops no error code.
Any ideas of where to look?
Thanks man for the nice comment. A dirty obstructed throttle body sounds like a good place to look and clean. Have you checked the MAP sensor?
You find Evidence to be clean Awesome
How was the fast idle after you did this? On my 96 Honda Civic EX A/T there seems to be a weird combination of mechanical/ECU control where the fast idle is entirely at the mercy of the bimetallic spring and its current state of calibration (or lack thereof) and that is apparently set at the factory but I believe as the IACV gets old it can get out of whack and require adjustment of the range plate by loosening those two screws that are in slotted holes on the range plate. Also, I noticed you didn't remove the electrical coils so that you could rotate the valve shaft over its full range back and forth while cleaning to make sure that it is fully freed up. There is also a test to do where you make sure that +12V across the close terminal and open terminal works properly to fully close and open the valve. Thanks for the video. These service manuals are not really explaining this stuff fully any more probably because they just want to sell us expensive replacement parts.
I did the idle relearn procedure immediately, so idle was same as before. Yea, I generally don't do the aggressive service. I just clean and put it back. I hear you! These companies hide as much as they can. You can't even get service manuals for the recent Honda🙄
Thanks for the compliment!
Thanks for the compliment!
Very informative thank you , the only thing is I have a 2007 and it doesn’t have a iac valve does it ? Thanks
No. The 2007 is drive-by-wire and they do not have IACV's.
Thanks for the compliment!!!
@@DIYAutoworksNG I believe the idle is computer control..
Both Drive-by-cable and by-wire are computer controlled. The main difference is that DBW which are electronically controlled are able to manage very fine adjustments of the throttle body butterfly plate, thus there isn't a need for an IACV.
Please is drive by wire also electronic throttle body?
Yep. Same thing.
This is an excellent video. Educative, well presented and detailed.
Do you do this professionally? If yes I would love to have your contact please.
Hey. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
No commercial service at all. Purely DIY
@@DIYAutoworksNG are you in Lagos?
@Ericofam unfortunately not.
You are a great teacher keep it up where is your office located
Thanks, man. No shop or office. All DIY.
I have a 2007 Honda accord with throttle cable. Please reconfirm your information about Honda switching to drive by wire for the Honda accords and at what year.
What region is your Accord manufactured for?
Do you think that cruise control linkage piece could be changed without taking the throttle body off? The black plastic eye that holds the end of the cable snaps over time due to heat. Dorman makes a replacement kit, im just curious if I need to remove the throttle body to do the repair? Thanks for the video
Can't say for sure. Would have checked for you but I've sold the vehicle. My gut is that the throttle would have to be removed.
@@DIYAutoworksNG thanks anyway, yeah theres room to take the nut holding the linkage off but the springs and linkage itself would come off the throttle body blind. Oh well, I need to clean the throttle body anyways. Thanks for all the vids
You took care not to get carb cleaner on the electrical components for the iacv, but you didn't take the same care not to get carb cleaner into the opening for your map sensor. I learned that mistake the hard way
You mean the MAP sensor? But I only cleaned the opening of the intake manifold with a rag sprayed with carb cleaner...
Very very helpful..... Apt explanation and I'm definitely following every bit of procedure as his.
How does one contact you personally?
My Instagram handle is on my About page.
Is there no gasket on the back of the throttle body?
There is. Its the green thing you see on the rear face of the throttle body. Since I didn't have a replacement, I opted to leave it in place and not bother separating it from the throttle body.
How did you just tug the throttle body? What if it remains stuck?
Keep tugging 🤣. Seriously, if it remains stuck you can tap on it with something padded to break the seal.
the idle re-learn procedure is the same with an 8th gen accord?
Yep
How different is the process for an 8th gen?
Not that different. Main difference is that you won't have the cables since the car is drive by wire ie has an electronic throttle body.
What if you dont do the learn procedure? Do you get codes???
Nope. Car may run rough for something till the ECU relearns the idle. I've observed on some Toyota, depending on how you drive, you may have a higher idle speed than normal. I've noticed it's less of an issue with Honda for example.
Great video. Is there a IAC for the 2008 crv? Next video... How to clean IAC and Throottle body junk from light color pavers...
No IACV on the 2008 CRV as I believe Honda switched to DBW throttle body's in 2006.
You cracked me up with the next video. But seriously, I should have done better. I now place a sheet of carton to catch the dirt. I used it in this other throttle body cleaning video th-cam.com/video/AsHA_lpCt64/w-d-xo.html
Do you think this is worth a shot trying if my accord is throwing code p0511? Or just replace ?
It's worth a shot. Could also be caused by excessive EGR buildup, dirty throttle body, a restricted MAF or intake leak. Good to also rule out poor contacts etc in the IACV wiring/connector. Generally, because of the close relationship with the EGR, if you go the cleaning route, it makes sense to clean the 3 if buildup is suspected.
Where is the mass airflow sensor on this car? Mine is exactly the same and most videos on TH-cam have it located right on top of the air filter box. Not sure where mine is so this would be very helpful info for me. Ty for your time.
This car only has a MAP sensor. No MAF!
Mine is a 2007 but it done not have a MAF
"Great job, but it seems you didn’t completely remove the IAC from the body itself. The stepper motor is connected to a butterfly valve inside the housing, which is likely full of carbon buildup. This buildup can prevent the valve from opening and closing smoothly. There is a shaft on the IAC unit that has a metal plate that is probably fully of excess gum in which it needs to be cleaned. You didnt do that. I encountered the same issue on my car and found that cleaning it thoroughly made a big difference."
Great video. How many pounds do we torque the nuts to? And if I use the original gasket will it leak
16ft lbs or 22Nm. For the mounting bolts/nuts. I reused the original gasket, now there's some dust collecting around it but no wetness or seepage.
@@DIYAutoworksNG thank you for the reply
👍🏼
Thank u video help me a lot
Glad to hear that
You should make sure the coolant system is under pressure when doing the idle relearn since will be bring the engine to full heat.
Yea. The radiator cap ensures this.
thank you for making this video
You're welcome!
What on earth was that piece of foam in the IAC? Is that supposed to be there???
Not at all! Was most likely sucked in through the air intake!
Currently i am having issues with my 2008 honda accord 2.0 engine, it's hard to start and the acceleration does not get past 3500, scanning it brings a P0365 code, i have changed the camshaft sensor, but still have same issue. I need your help 12:33
Other causes of a P0365 apart from the CPS include, a faulty starter, weak battery and shorts or poor contacts either in the CPS or starting system circuit.
Can you describe the hardstarting you're having?
My MAF sensor is placed differently. But my biggest question is how difficult was it to remove the screws that was holding the IAC to the throttle body
Not difficult after I tapped them. Old technique for removing screws/bolts that won't budge.
Found this video while trying to find a solution for my stuck bolts. I'll try tapping some more
Fingers crossed it works. Do let us know. Just ensure you use the appropriate size of screwdriver too. Should fit snug with no play or wiggle room.
Unfortunately they were crazy rusted on. I did the dremel slice so it'd accept a big flat head, after that didn't work I used the dremel to slice the head off the screw, and then had to work it back and forth finally getting it past the rust and off. Picked up some new stainless Allen heads bolts so never again! Btw, they're M5 coarse
Thanks for sharing. Happy you got it out finally. Stuck screws can be pain!
Thanks for your video
So nice of you
Very informative
Thanks!
When I took off the black electrical unit a black o ring fell out. Is it suppose to go back in to the IAC valve? I do t know where it fell off from
Is it the same Honda you are working on? Are you referring to the black gasket I peeled off in the video or something else? Knowing the exact model and year you are working on will help. That said, usually there's a gasket/o-ring between the IACV & throttle body.
@@DIYAutoworksNG it’s a 2003 Honda Element. I’m referring to a round O- ring not the gasket you peeled off. I didn’t see that you had one in yours. The prong is broken. I’m not sure if there a replacement. That being said, I couldn’t get the iAC valve off since the screws are sealed. Now I put it back together without the o ring but my car won’t start now
Thanks for coming back. Still trying to ascertain the location of the o-ring in question. Did this fall off when you separated the throttle body from the engine? Since you said you were not able to loosen the IACV, I'm a bit confused on the black part you took off. Is it the black electrical part where the IACV connector bolts into? The one that's held by torx screws? The part I refer to above was not removed in my procedure.
Either way, the o-ring will have to be replaced. I would imagine that it's absence is causing a significant vacuum leak that has resulted in the no-start condition.
@@DIYAutoworksNG thank you for getting back to me. Yes it’s the black part with the magnetic rotating thing, I used a torn screw to take it off. I think the o ring fell out when I took that off but not sure. I figured out why it didn’t start. For some reason the battery was drained. I still get high idle while only in park which is why I was trying to clean it
Good progress. Did you do an idle relearn procedure after cleaning?
How much would a throttle body replacement cost?
Don't have the figure off the top of my head, but would imagine it would be a couple hundred dollars.
It should be around $350-$450 USD, for a brand new OEM replacement. However it depends on where you get the part from. By the way there shouldn't be a need for a replacement, you can just clean and follow the procedures and it'll work just as new. Definitely beats replacing the whole part.
Should I do this to the same car if it the idle Is rough first thing in the morning and at times car switches off wen I put into drive or even rev it and let go.thanks
Could be a number of things, is the check engine light on? If its not, depending on when last you did so, try to do a general tune up cleaning the throttle body inclusive. Others include MAP, MAF sensors etc.
Engine light doesn't come on
No iv jus had throtle body cleaned but rev are jumping up now
@DIYAutoworksNG iv git the throttle body cleaned but revs jump up a little now when I let go off gas weather in drive,park or neutral
You need to find the idle relearn procedure for the car online and do it. Is it a Toyota?
Your floor looks very clean now lol.
I stopped that horrible practice long ago 😅
I now place some cardboard underneath.
Great video mate. Thank you.@@DIYAutoworksNG
Is that throttle body for a manual transmission also? Cause I have one an it looks the same but when I go to buy the part it says for auto trans only?
I haven't checked if the part numbers are different.
@@DIYAutoworksNG i can’t find the right part the one that’s in there now looks like the one for a auto but mine is manual can the throttle body from a auto be put on a manual?
Share your year, model and trim, let me take a look
@@DIYAutoworksNG 2004 Honda Accord LX.
Just checked and the AT and Mt have different part numbers. See www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~throttle~body~assy~16400-raa-a13.html?vin=&make=Honda&model=Accord&year=2004&submodel=&extra1=4%20Door%20LX&extra2=KA%205AT&filter=()
Nice video thanks!
You're welcome
Did it help tho?
It did, although the IACV still didn't pass the bidirectional test. I think that big piece of debris I pulled from it, wore out the actuator, though it hasn't yet reached the threshold for tripping a code.
Awesome video man, thanks!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
Whaoooo. This is detailed
Its the iac valve suppose to spin mime just flaps open
Mine wasn't.
Foam!?
So weird! Maybe prior owner ran without an air cleaner element at some point or something
Does anyone know where the hell anyone can find accurate info on the CRV 2014 2.4L petrol engines
I am having real difficulty finding support. I an experiencing a low labouring feeling shaky idle.
The IAC is NOT serviceable. It is a sealed unit. I am. Good plug. Good coil packs. New air filter. 80k km
I got injectors serviced thinking could be them... Cleaned MAF cleaned MAP. With MAF cleaner.
Throttle body clean. This is THE MOST frustrating car experience i have had to date. Regarding idle.
I find it highly disappointing. The information is just not at all discussed. It is like no one knows how to diagnose this problem with the sealed IAC units.
Sorry. But its BS. i have run by several mechanics. Lucky i havnt so far paid them for any opinions.
It shouldn't be so difficult to find a video on the K24Zs IAC if it can be cleaned somehow.
I have a late model 2014 CRV so i was told by dealer going off VIN # that its considered a 2015 model. It doesn't help a thing to know this.
THE MOST FRUSTRATING car experience to date. I've had v6 Holden's. An Ls1 v8 Holden Calais Vx. A Toyota diesel rav4.
This CRV is a piece of JUNK. The fact they hide the PCV assembly line UNDER the intake manifold.
Like real helpful everything is hammed into the tightest stupidest places.
It is a joke to work on. So unpleasant. Like no bonnet struts. A piece of junk weak feeling bonnet support.
While you struggle to look at ans identify anything you work on under the ridiculously tight packed engine bay...
A low idle that shakes the door and window if it's partially down. Sitting at about 550-600 RPM
AND. no one online covers it. No service information is available genuine information.
Mechanics have told me. No fault code will show up for the IAC.
It's like. Come onnnnnn...
You can't check a pcv hose right to its source. Without removing the whole intake manifold!?
And a non serviceable IAC assembly. Gee. That's handy guys. Bravo...
Just throw away shit. And no proper objective way to test this joke of an idle system.
Just guess with parts. That's all these dealerships will be doing. If you're dumb enough to take to them.
I've NEVER EVER had a car so disappointing. It's drive ability. The standard shocks were way too stiff.
Poor sway system really. Poor performance on highways long trips suck. No cruising power. Gearing sucks.
It can't handle variable loads even at highway speeds like 110/100 km. Any slight inclines even if drawn out.
It can't make pick-up from 5th. You will have to manually use sports mode and kick down to at least 3rd.
It just don't match any of it. Engine size to weight and gearing. It all just totally totally blows.
It's annoying as to put up with and the IAC for me. Being sealed and no info. That does it for me. For sale guys.
Back to Toyota for me. Forget Honda CRVs
They're underpowered for the size and shape. They have annoying featurea like CMBS braking. Can turn off but still just stupid.
What. A brake system and seat belt tensioner system. That scares you by braking when u don't even need it to. Lane keep assist. Who needs it.
Just drive. Properly.
Oh. It also makes a hard uncomfortable feeling of a shift. That I've been told by 3 auto trans guys. IS NOT a trans problems.
But. Hill stop assist OR a problem with the ABS related to hill stop assist.
Slightest incline. Not needed. What does it do or feel like shit that's what.
Not a smooth take off. A hard bump that makes u think of feel u got yourself an auto trans problem like a TORQUE convertor issue. Not unlocking...
Or a shift solenoid issue. Like valve body blocked. Pressure problems or something.
It's just got LEMON! written all over it.
I can imagine. And the car has no codes?
👍👍👍👍
🤝🏼
😊
I no s te descalibro
My throttle position sensor was unplugged 😑 haha
Lol
No le limpiaste el tps 😮
On this car, the TPS cannot be detached. Honda designed it to not be serviceable.
"That was Whacked Off camera". I bet it was big boy... 😉
Lol. Not really, just didn't want to show the same thing again.
Why spray all the oil gunk onto the floor when you can use a catch container 🤣
True talk. I no longer clean stuff this way. Thanks!
Wtf? What was that piece of plastic doing inside of the IAC? Lol
😂
Guess you don't care about the grease going on that floor?
My bad. I now place cartons on the floor before such cleaning. Thanks.
Why not just buy a throttle body from ebay new for under 60 bucks?
I actually love working on my car! Also, throttle bodies will always get dirty. I don't think it's feasible replacing a throttle body each time it gets dirty.
Yeah, I definitely agree. Theres no point in replacing the entire mechanism especially since it does need frequent servicing regardless if its new or 15 years old. Also they said $60 brand new?😂 where in the world. These parts go for a couple hundred bucks minimum.@@DIYAutoworksNG
If the surge continues when I step on gas up to high rpm … vroom vroom vroom is it another issue?
I'd say you have the car scanned as it can be many things
Has anyone gotten an error code P0507
I haven't, but it has decent coverage on obd-codes.com and similar websites.
I did this work but I made it worse
You may have adjusted the cable for the throttle body unintentionally.
@@DIYAutoworksNG I definitely did! Thank you
How does that foul the system?
How can I correct it?
I did not take care to set the throttle cables the exact tension they were I thought that the cables and adjustment nuts were … adjustable