Did not rev a few times to only 3500rpm max and then did not let it sit and heat soak for 1 hour, THEN take the car and drive at highway speeds for 10 mins. No wonder the valves and any other parts were not clean. Product not used as specified by the manufacturer.
Yeah I always heard you're supposed to let it heat soak for about an hour and then go drive it at highway speeds for about 15 to 20 minutes. I think it even tells you that on the can.
I would recommend taking of the intake manifold and manually cleaning the valves, make sure the valves you're working on are closed. A little bit of spray in the intake won't have enough time to eat away heavy carbon buildup you need to put some elbow grease into it
@@butWhyDad ...so you've never cleaned the intake valves? 160k w/o cleaning a lot of carbon build-up I'm sure. It happens to all DI engines yours isn't exempt.
Maybe if you had read the instructions correctly... I use this all the time, and it works for me. You're supposed to let it sit and soak for a while before going to drive it to clear it out. Also, it's not meant for O2 sensors or cats.. it LITERALLY says VALVE AND INTAKE CLEANER... so.. Nice try.
Did you use a camera like he did to see if it worked or if it's just your imagination? By the way I have some beach front property in Montana I'd like to sell you.
@AveGuy1 oh look, my comment's first snarky simpleton. FYI, yes, I've used my borescope several times since I purchased my vehicle to determine cylinder health, etc. My first degree is in automotive engineering, so data collection and analysis is second-nature at this point. I'd like to imagine that this would be important to people when making decisions, but judging by your need to troll, it's obvious you don't have much of an imagination. That's why you didn't offer any supporting evidence to the video to prove or disprove him. But hey... you keep doing you, princess.
@ixyzyxi true, but how am I supposed to? I'm not a TH-cam content creator. I don't want to be. I DID, however, originally state that the video's creator didn't read the instructions and sited what they say and why. Anyone can look those up and verify my point. I at least provided 'something' tangible.
@@koreylettenmaier3103 well true, here (in the Netherlands) a reputable company offers cleaning that basically works the same way so there must be some truth to the story. That machine goes for a lot longer (an hour ish) though so maybe you need to use more bottles if there’s more contamination. I think these bottles are ment to be preventive instead of actually fixing a problem though.
Just a suggestion ! I have used this on my car Lexus Gs 400 has 355, 000 miles . I tried this product at 320,000 miles . It needed 4 applications 1500 miles apart repeating using C R C Intake cleaner . One application or one can will only be a slight difference . You must repeat 4 times , At a 1500 mile interval . Don't forget to change the oil after 2,000 miles will be dirty . And again after 4,000 miles . Car now runs smooth no mis idle and plenty power and acceleration . For maintenance now once every 15,000 miles only . Please follow directions on can exactly nothing else !. Auto Zone has this $ 14 .99 a can .
You are not doing it properly as per instructions on can if you had to do it 4 times .. also there is really no way that this would make your engine oil dirty .. this is combustion part of the engine .. Any carbon builds up dislodged will burn out through the exhaust
does throttle body cleaner do the same & clean valves? & about effectiveness i can see that your engine is missed up & you need to do it more often, like every oil change until you get rid of most of that carbon build ups
Chevron has the patent on PEA, i.e. Techron. The CRC product has a concentrated amount of PEA. This is a very strong detergent. It works over time, over the next few weeks, or about 1000 miles. I am sure CRC or Chevron will confirm this if you call support. This product does work, but if you have high mileage, do 3 treatments like 1000 miles apart. And very important, change the oil. A lot of carbon will be held in suspension in the oil. Happy motoring 😊
Engine oil is not in anyway in the same cycle as air nor fuel in the engine, if you have an issue where it IS then you need to get your car to a shop asap because one of your gaskets is fucked, three things that never mix, engine oil - air and fuel - coolant
Of course, but I don't understand your point on what I said. Poly Ether amine will cause some oil dilution due to blow-by. Gasoline also enters the oil in the same way. This is normal engine operation. My point was to make certain to change the engine oil after any concentrated fuel treatment, or in this case PEA detergent treatment into the air intake system. The detergent WILL alter the additive package in the oil. In addition, the detergent cleans the ring lands as you let the engine heat soak. So, some carbon will enter the oil, and most definitely the exhaust. Thus, it is important to change the oil after such treatments. Moreover, to much detergents in any oil will cause accelerated wear. (Sodium calcium and so forth. ) So, the oil chemists know what they are doing, a balance of anti wear, detergent, friction modifiers, anti foaming agents and so on in formulations.
ABC version...gas and any additive that is put in the fuel tank or the intake beyond the MAF will enter the engine oil in some amounts due to combustion and blow by.
I use to do this on the VW every oil change. It does help to an extent but it won't complete stop cabon build up on valves. You will still need to go in there and do a physical cleaning also.
You didn't do it right. Rpm stays under 3500 rpm on first drive. That's after you let it sit for an hour. And your suppose to stay at 2000 rpm with 1sec bursts till the cans empty. You failed on your review. This product is awesome. Googie the reviews
Correct you must follow the directions exactly on the can . For even better results repeat 4 times every 1500 miles . Don't forget to change oil after 2nd and 4 th application . Will be dirty .
Thanks for sharing. Not only your video show that cleaner did not work but also showed how to remove oxygen sensor without twisting wire and inspect catalytic converter. Keep it up brother.
This is the only video where the product did nothing. I find that very odd. He didn't let it heat soak for at least an hour and talking to the techs at CRC, they said it continues to clean for up to 1,000 miles. On other videos testing this product the valves were still wet on top after the drive. That's how it's supposed to be according to CRC. Something wasn't done right here.
This product is a preventative maintenence spray, not a repair spray. Your supposed to do this everytime you change your oil in order to extend the time it takes before your valves have to be physically cleaned.
Its a valve cleaner… definitely cleaned your valves off !! It works great … idk about it cleaning pistons and catalytic converters or your dirty dishes …but valves …ayyyye 💪🏽😎👍🏽
The best and only way to clean carbon build up (on Direct injection) for the intake vavles thoroughly is manual cleaning and/or a walnut blaster. And the only way to do it is removing the intake manifold. None of these cleaners in a can cleans the valves more than a tiny bit if anything at all.
they're good mainly for maintenance. If you do them regularly before an oil change, it'll help prevent build up. Even after build up, its a lot easier and cheaper to do this a few times (as someone else mentioned, 4 times 1500 miles apart) than do a manual walnut blasting. Sure, that is the best method. But most can't do that or don't want to pay so much money to get it done. Usually not worth it.
Any new news on cleaning the intake valves on 2.3 liter Ford ecoboost Mustang engines? There's a lot of information now (in DEC 2024) that using spray cleaners into the intake can damage or destroy the turbo.
Many other comments have pointed out many errors you made. Here’s a little more info. The CRC will remove “ up to 26%” after you let it sit for 1 hour and then drive the cat at highway speeds for 15-30 minutes. Then over the next 1000 miles or so, even more carbon will be removed. Your engine ( valves etc. ) weren’t that dirty. I have a 2017 Toyota Highlander. Toyota equipped it with both types of fuel injection, so I’m pretty sure your car has the same system. This type of a setup will stay cleaner and for longer but a good cleaning wouldn’t hurt every 30,000 miles or so.
Thank you for the video. I have a direct injection V6 was considering using the product and your real world results convinced me that the product doesn't work as well as it is advertised.
Yes, GDI engines I think they need to stop making those instead they added more injector to new GDI engine to solve this carbon biuldup issue this means more expensive parts and more issues, intake valve they need to be removed to clean and to check the seats since this carbon buildup causes overheating valves and uneven seat seal.
Hey mate, try to get and test Xado Anticarbon - the reviews I see are almost always very good, people write that this agent works wonders with pistons and rings. I haven't seen anything that would apply in this way on the channel yet. Your content is great
I use Xado products but not sure if this product would clean off the intake valves on a direct injection engine. Port injected engines intake valves are normally very clean due to the injection of fuel behind the valve which has a cleaning effect. With direct injection engines the fuel is injected directly into combustion chamber bypassing the intake valve. Intake valves build up carbon from the blow-by being recycled through the engine via PCV systems etc. which is normally cleaned on port injected engines but not direct injection engines.
@@gymrat3203 first of all that's what tests are for - to be sure :D And secondly you put Xado Anticarbon directly on the pistons through spark plug holes. I use it also through PCV hose on running engine - this way it can reach intake valves. That's serious chemical angent, can rip paint off metal. Not a toy like Seafoam :P
@@las3k91 I didn't think about putting it directly through PCV system which would clean back of the intake valves. I don't think my engine has a traditional PCV system. It is the GM 3.6 24 variable valve direct injection version. I'll have to do some research. Thanks!
Did you let it sit for 10 minutes after you used the whole can? You are supposed to idle, rev to 2500 spray some in, let idle again, rev to 2500 spray a little more, repeat till the can is gone, then let sit for 10 minutes off. Then restart and warm up, rev, then drive hard to get it all out.
Have A 2020 Malibu 1.5L Turbo Just Got About A Month Ago W/ 65k miles, Just wondering if there would be an issue with the carbon going thru the turbo ?? Would there be any damage ?? The Dealer I Got It From Lied About The Last Oil Change And I Started Experiencing Stalling, Rough Idle, Rough Startup, Terrible Acceleration, Etc
Well letting the car sit for 1hr is part of the process.. obviously that was not done. Revving your engine 6 times at 3500-4500 is not advised.. Those are the reasons you had no results. If your going to be a “technical expert” follow the guidelines.
I've taken off the intake manifold and let this stuff soak on the valves overnight. Doesn't do anything. If you think spraying a little bit in can possibly do anything you're crazy.
Excellent video. You hadn't followed the instructions correctly but even if you had it wouldn't have made that much of difference. Certainly not what it shows on the aerosol can. Other you tube videos show that crc doesn't work.
Best way to clean the valves and keep them clean is to fabricate an intake manifold and bolt a carburetor on the engine. Then fabricate timing-belt drive for a distributor and throw the computer away. Oh - you will also have to fabricate a switch-box to run the automatic transmission, too.
You didn’t follow their instructions, they said to not exceed 3,500 during thr throttle snap mid way through the can and to let it hot soak for 1 hour before restarting and then warming it up at low revs before driving at highway speeds for at least 10 minutes. What they don’t tell you is to use a catalytic converter cleaner in a tank of premium to protect your cat from dislodged carbon burning holes through it
@@AliMECH Thanks man. It's a GDI and the LTFT is also high, going above 10% while the STFT also goes positive while accelerating which is weird. I intially thought it would be a vacuum leak but if I choke the intake at idle, the engine dies rapidly and the intake rubber hoses remain squeezed from suction, which proves that there are no intake leaks that give those high fuel trims. I have taken out the injectors and cleaned them. Same results. Changed the inejctors with new one. Same results. Changed the high pressure fuel pump. Same thing. Changed both O2 sensors for 3 times. Same results. It turns my thinking upside down on why the ECU sends positive trim which makes everything very black in the exhaust. I don't know how to find the cause of the high fuel dosages given by the ECU. I've also changed the air intake sensors, IAT1 and MAP sensors thinking that these can foul the air data recieved by the ECU. Also changed the throttle body thinking that it sends more air than the valve angle reads for the ECU. Same result after all of these money spend on all of these parts. After each reset of all adaptations, the trims go to zero for a while, then wammm..., the STFT starts rising to some 16% positive and drags the LTFT with it there. Strange thing is that if I reset all adaptations and run the engine cold, like a miracle STFT trims remain close to zero and the LTFT is perfectly zero only up to when the engine coolant reaches some 70+ C. Above that coolant temp, the STFT rapidly rises to above 10..16% and stays there. It's weird why only when the coolant goes over 70C, the trim starts to go crazy up. The ECU pours more fuel for that and the resultant, black spark plugs, O2 sensors, cat converter intake mesh occurs. I don't get it what fouls the ECU after the engine coolant goes over 70C.
I had good results with it before when I pure it in gas tank here th-cam.com/video/cFkqPHSzEbg/w-d-xo.html It cleaned piston carbon, bit I should try for Catalytic cleaning too
I had something similar to this engine hesitation almost like it would stall. I poured some seafoam into the spark plug holes above the valve, let it soak for 24 hours and then started the engine. Yes it smoked and yes it hesitated for about 10 seconds but man, i no longer have that issue. I wish i could have use a boresvope to see before and after
Yeah sounds like carbon buildup on the piston head then. That won’t fix valve buildup because the spark plug well goes into the cylinder passing the valves.
Yea, you did it wrong. After emptying the can of CRI, and idling back down, you're supposed to let it "heatsoak", meaning let it sit for an hour THEN drive it...
*QUESTION: What about adding paper glitter to the intake?* Wouldn't the paper SCRUB the carbon, and get destroyed in the heat of the engine without damaging it? It seams that most "carbon cleaners" are designed to be DELAYED BURN products which act as abrasives before being destroyed by the combustion process. Thus...finding an abrasive which still gets destroyed is a matter of fine tuning the time vs abrasiveness. Paper seams to be a good choice given it's slow burn tendencies Vs it's abrasive characteristics.
I haven't use that, anything I use should be sensor safe and not damage throttle body, o2 sensor, there are so many harsh chemicals to remove carbon, but it will damage something else
This will never work on high mileage hard carbon deposits. This can only be used as a Maintenace duty every oil change . Then it might show significance at 100 k miles.
The instructions are on the can man...how can you claim it don't work if you didn't follow simple directions...no heat soak no 3500 rpms dude you didn't use the product correctly!!!!
Did not rev a few times to only 3500rpm max and then did not let it sit and heat soak for 1 hour, THEN take the car and drive at highway speeds for 10 mins. No wonder the valves and any other parts were not clean. Product not used as specified by the manufacturer.
Yeah I always heard you're supposed to let it heat soak for about an hour and then go drive it at highway speeds for about 15 to 20 minutes. I think it even tells you that on the can.
You don’t rev it to 3500 rpm you don’t exceed 3500rpm
It might take more than one can of the stuff too, it's something you have to keep using at every service, particularly if you have a GDI engine.
I would recommend taking of the intake manifold and manually cleaning the valves, make sure the valves you're working on are closed.
A little bit of spray in the intake won't have enough time to eat away heavy carbon buildup you need to put some elbow grease into it
I did that here
th-cam.com/video/qr-MNqGcLCA/w-d-xo.html
But not everyone can remove all that and for some cars it will take so much time and tools
@@AliMECH...Yeah ain't direct injection great...sure if you only keep your vehicle for 50kmi then trade it in, rinse repeat.
@@harryberry474What are u talking about man. I have a gdi with 160k miles with no issues lol
@@butWhyDad ...so you've never cleaned the intake valves? 160k w/o cleaning a lot of carbon build-up I'm sure. It happens to all DI engines yours isn't exempt.
@@harryberry474 I didn't and I have no misfires. Carbon buildup isn't gonna cause issues unless it is extreme
Maybe if you had read the instructions correctly... I use this all the time, and it works for me. You're supposed to let it sit and soak for a while before going to drive it to clear it out. Also, it's not meant for O2 sensors or cats.. it LITERALLY says VALVE AND INTAKE CLEANER... so.. Nice try.
Did you use a camera like he did to see if it worked or if it's just your imagination? By the way I have some beach front property in Montana I'd like to sell you.
@AveGuy1 oh look, my comment's first snarky simpleton. FYI, yes, I've used my borescope several times since I purchased my vehicle to determine cylinder health, etc. My first degree is in automotive engineering, so data collection and analysis is second-nature at this point. I'd like to imagine that this would be important to people when making decisions, but judging by your need to troll, it's obvious you don't have much of an imagination. That's why you didn't offer any supporting evidence to the video to prove or disprove him. But hey... you keep doing you, princess.
@@koreylettenmaier3103you didn’t add any evidence either though?
@ixyzyxi true, but how am I supposed to? I'm not a TH-cam content creator. I don't want to be. I DID, however, originally state that the video's creator didn't read the instructions and sited what they say and why. Anyone can look those up and verify my point. I at least provided 'something' tangible.
@@koreylettenmaier3103 well true, here (in the Netherlands) a reputable company offers cleaning that basically works the same way so there must be some truth to the story. That machine goes for a lot longer (an hour ish) though so maybe you need to use more bottles if there’s more contamination.
I think these bottles are ment to be preventive instead of actually fixing a problem though.
Just a suggestion ! I have used this on my car Lexus Gs 400 has 355, 000 miles . I tried this product at 320,000 miles . It needed 4 applications 1500 miles apart repeating using C R C Intake cleaner . One application or one can will only be a slight difference . You must repeat 4 times , At a 1500 mile interval . Don't forget to change the oil after 2,000 miles will be dirty . And again after 4,000 miles . Car now runs smooth no mis idle and plenty power and acceleration . For maintenance now once every 15,000 miles only . Please follow directions on can exactly nothing else !. Auto Zone has this $ 14 .99 a can .
Thank you will give this a try .
Your lexus is a GDI fuel system?
Same as my 2021 Honda CRV, 1.5 turbo GDI, after I got it clean eventually, it runs great again, now every oil change I use a can
You are not doing it properly as per instructions on can if you had to do it 4 times .. also there is really no way that this would make your engine oil dirty .. this is combustion part of the engine .. Any carbon builds up dislodged will burn out through the exhaust
@@iamasmurf1122
does throttle body cleaner do the same & clean valves?
& about effectiveness i can see that your engine is missed up & you need to do it more often, like every oil change until you get rid of most of that carbon build ups
Chevron has the patent on PEA, i.e. Techron. The CRC product has a concentrated amount of PEA. This is a very strong detergent. It works over time, over the next few weeks, or about 1000 miles. I am sure CRC or Chevron will confirm this if you call support. This product does work, but if you have high mileage, do 3 treatments like 1000 miles apart. And very important, change the oil. A lot of carbon will be held in suspension in the oil. Happy motoring 😊
Engine oil is not in anyway in the same cycle as air nor fuel in the engine, if you have an issue where it IS then you need to get your car to a shop asap because one of your gaskets is fucked, three things that never mix, engine oil - air and fuel - coolant
Of course, but I don't understand your point on what I said. Poly Ether amine will cause some oil dilution due to blow-by. Gasoline also enters the oil in the same way. This is normal engine operation. My point was to make certain to change the engine oil after any concentrated fuel treatment, or in this case PEA detergent treatment into the air intake system. The detergent WILL alter the additive package in the oil. In addition, the detergent cleans the ring lands as you let the engine heat soak. So, some carbon will enter the oil, and most definitely the exhaust. Thus, it is important to change the oil after such treatments. Moreover, to much detergents in any oil will cause accelerated wear. (Sodium calcium and so forth. ) So, the oil chemists know what they are doing, a balance of anti wear, detergent, friction modifiers, anti foaming agents and so on in formulations.
ABC version...gas and any additive that is put in the fuel tank or the intake beyond the MAF will enter the engine oil in some amounts due to combustion and blow by.
@Koltary False. Fuel and oil mix from the PCV system. And every combustion cycle, At the piston rings. More so the older your engine gets.
They claim it take effect in next 8 times use of car be patient
I use to do this on the VW every oil change. It does help to an extent but it won't complete stop cabon build up on valves. You will still need to go in there and do a physical cleaning also.
You didn't do it right. Rpm stays under 3500 rpm on first drive. That's after you let it sit for an hour. And your suppose to stay at 2000 rpm with 1sec bursts till the cans empty. You failed on your review. This product is awesome. Googie the reviews
Correct you must follow the directions exactly on the can . For even better results repeat 4 times every 1500 miles . Don't forget to change oil after 2nd and 4 th application . Will be dirty .
Thanks for sharing. Not only your video show that cleaner did not work but also showed how to remove oxygen sensor without twisting wire and inspect catalytic converter. Keep it up brother.
You're most welcome! Brother,
This is the only video where the product did nothing. I find that very odd. He didn't let it heat soak for at least an hour and talking to the techs at CRC, they said it continues to clean for up to 1,000 miles. On other videos testing this product the valves were still wet on top after the drive. That's how it's supposed to be according to CRC. Something wasn't done right here.
@RobinIntell I'm with you! & you're supposed to have the engine running @ 2k rpm while intermittently spraying... several incorrect procedures here
He did the procedure wrong though, so his results are wrong. This product DOES work and it he'd done it RIGHT we would've seen better results!!
This product works great when you used the directions i chase it with B12 Chemic tool afterwards
This product is a preventative maintenence spray, not a repair spray. Your supposed to do this everytime you change your oil in order to extend the time it takes before your valves have to be physically cleaned.
I just paid my dealership $330- to do my 2500 promaster at 75000 miles. Hopefully the BG treatment cleaned them up?
In mining we use automatic trans oil you warm out the motor & bring rpm up start pouring slow it does a great job one LT.
Its a valve cleaner… definitely cleaned your valves off !! It works great … idk about it cleaning pistons and catalytic converters or your dirty dishes …but valves …ayyyye 💪🏽😎👍🏽
If I did this on my Honda cylinder the same way. Will it destroy the intake pressure sensor
The best and only way to clean carbon build up (on Direct injection) for the intake vavles thoroughly is manual cleaning and/or a walnut blaster. And the only way to do it is removing the intake manifold. None of these cleaners in a can cleans the valves more than a tiny bit if anything at all.
they're good mainly for maintenance. If you do them regularly before an oil change, it'll help prevent build up. Even after build up, its a lot easier and cheaper to do this a few times (as someone else mentioned, 4 times 1500 miles apart) than do a manual walnut blasting. Sure, that is the best method. But most can't do that or don't want to pay so much money to get it done. Usually not worth it.
Any new news on cleaning the intake valves on 2.3 liter Ford ecoboost Mustang engines?
There's a lot of information now (in DEC 2024) that using spray cleaners into the intake can damage or destroy the turbo.
Many other comments have pointed out many errors you made. Here’s a little more info. The CRC will remove “ up to 26%” after you let it sit for 1 hour and then drive the cat at highway speeds for 15-30 minutes. Then over the next 1000 miles or so, even more carbon will be removed. Your engine ( valves etc. ) weren’t that dirty. I have a 2017 Toyota Highlander. Toyota equipped it with both types of fuel injection, so I’m pretty sure your car has the same system. This type of a setup will stay cleaner and for longer but a good cleaning wouldn’t hurt every 30,000 miles or so.
Toyota Camry's have have injector above the intake valve along with a direct injection, no need to do this. Pour a can of Chevron Techron into the gas
Not these models, only from 2018 above have injectors to clean valves
can i use it on a diesel?
I've read that regular old carburetor cleaner works better than anything for cleaning the intake valves.
Can you use regular chlorinated brake cleaner or throttle body cleaner to clean GDI valve using the same method?
For the love of god do not use brake cleaner you will fck any maf sensors or sensors you have .. and no throttle body cleaner won’t do the same job
Great information Ali, i saw some other guys tested it and its not cleaning
Thanks 👍
why did you drive the car immediately after spraying. your supposed to let it soak for 1 hr than drive for 30 min
This juice dont build up condensation in the intercooler?
Thank you for the video. I have a direct injection V6 was considering using the product and your real world results convinced me that the product doesn't work as well as it is advertised.
Great to hear! Thanks for watching
Yes, GDI engines I think they need to stop making those instead they added more injector to new GDI engine to solve this carbon biuldup issue this means more expensive parts and more issues, intake valve they need to be removed to clean and to check the seats since this carbon buildup causes overheating valves and uneven seat seal.
Hey mate, try to get and test Xado Anticarbon - the reviews I see are almost always very good, people write that this agent works wonders with pistons and rings. I haven't seen anything that would apply in this way on the channel yet. Your content is great
I'll check it out, thanks for watching
I use Xado products but not sure if this product would clean off the intake valves on a direct injection engine. Port injected engines intake valves are normally very clean due to the injection of fuel behind the valve which has a cleaning effect. With direct injection engines the fuel is injected directly into combustion chamber bypassing the intake valve. Intake valves build up carbon from the blow-by being recycled through the engine via PCV systems etc. which is normally cleaned on port injected engines but not direct injection engines.
@@gymrat3203 first of all that's what tests are for - to be sure :D And secondly you put Xado Anticarbon directly on the pistons through spark plug holes.
I use it also through PCV hose on running engine - this way it can reach intake valves.
That's serious chemical angent, can rip paint off metal. Not a toy like Seafoam :P
@@las3k91 I didn't think about putting it directly through PCV system which would clean back of the intake valves. I don't think my engine has a traditional PCV system. It is the GM 3.6 24 variable valve direct injection version. I'll have to do some research. Thanks!
Did you let it sit for 10 minutes after you used the whole can? You are supposed to idle, rev to 2500 spray some in, let idle again, rev to 2500 spray a little more, repeat till the can is gone, then let sit for 10 minutes off. Then restart and warm up, rev, then drive hard to get it all out.
Have A 2020 Malibu 1.5L Turbo Just Got About A Month Ago W/ 65k miles, Just wondering if there would be an issue with the carbon going thru the turbo ?? Would there be any damage ?? The Dealer I Got It From Lied About The Last Oil Change And I Started Experiencing Stalling, Rough Idle, Rough Startup, Terrible Acceleration, Etc
Having owned a 2016 model, the sooner you get rid of that POS, the better.
@@anonymousinc6330 I couldnt agree more 💯
Well letting the car sit for 1hr is part of the process.. obviously that was not done.
Revving your engine 6 times at 3500-4500 is not advised..
Those are the reasons you had no results. If your going to be a “technical expert” follow the guidelines.
Ai dreptate.Insa masina ta e deja plina de carbon.Ideea e sa folosesti asta la fiecare schimb de ulei de cand e masina noua.
Isn’t the 2017 Camry with 2AR FE port injected only?
Both direct and port inyected.
I've taken off the intake manifold and let this stuff soak on the valves overnight. Doesn't do anything. If you think spraying a little bit in can possibly do anything you're crazy.
can you use this on turbo diesel engine?
Excellent video. You hadn't followed the instructions correctly but even if you had it wouldn't have made that much of difference. Certainly not what it shows on the aerosol can. Other you tube videos show that crc doesn't work.
Best way to clean the valves and keep them clean is to fabricate an intake manifold and bolt a carburetor on the engine. Then fabricate timing-belt drive for a distributor and throw the computer away.
Oh - you will also have to fabricate a switch-box to run the automatic transmission, too.
You didn’t follow their instructions, they said to not exceed 3,500 during thr throttle snap mid way through the can and to let it hot soak for 1 hour before restarting and then warming it up at low revs before driving at highway speeds for at least 10 minutes. What they don’t tell you is to use a catalytic converter cleaner in a tank of premium to protect your cat from dislodged carbon burning holes through it
My spark plugs and both oxygen sensors are as black as black can be and I don't get it why. Any idea?
You have rich burning, more fuel than air, check the fuel injectors,
@@AliMECH
Thanks man. It's a GDI and the LTFT is also high, going above 10% while the STFT also goes positive while accelerating which is weird. I intially thought it would be a vacuum leak but if I choke the intake at idle, the engine dies rapidly and the intake rubber hoses remain squeezed from suction, which proves that there are no intake leaks that give those high fuel trims. I have taken out the injectors and cleaned them. Same results. Changed the inejctors with new one. Same results. Changed the high pressure fuel pump. Same thing. Changed both O2 sensors for 3 times. Same results. It turns my thinking upside down on why the ECU sends positive trim which makes everything very black in the exhaust. I don't know how to find the cause of the high fuel dosages given by the ECU. I've also changed the air intake sensors, IAT1 and MAP sensors thinking that these can foul the air data recieved by the ECU. Also changed the throttle body thinking that it sends more air than the valve angle reads for the ECU. Same result after all of these money spend on all of these parts. After each reset of all adaptations, the trims go to zero for a while, then wammm..., the STFT starts rising to some 16% positive and drags the LTFT with it there. Strange thing is that if I reset all adaptations and run the engine cold, like a miracle STFT trims remain close to zero and the LTFT is perfectly zero only up to when the engine coolant reaches some 70+ C. Above that coolant temp, the STFT rapidly rises to above 10..16% and stays there. It's weird why only when the coolant goes over 70C, the trim starts to go crazy up. The ECU pours more fuel for that and the resultant, black spark plugs, O2 sensors, cat converter intake mesh occurs. I don't get it what fouls the ECU after the engine coolant goes over 70C.
You should try the laquer thinner trick for your catalytic converter. I'm curious if it would work for those clogged ports.
I had good results with it before when I pure it in gas tank here
th-cam.com/video/cFkqPHSzEbg/w-d-xo.html
It cleaned piston carbon, bit I should try for Catalytic cleaning too
old wifes tail
did steven hawkings narrate this?
I had something similar to this engine hesitation almost like it would stall. I poured some seafoam into the spark plug holes above the valve, let it soak for 24 hours and then started the engine. Yes it smoked and yes it hesitated for about 10 seconds but man, i no longer have that issue. I wish i could have use a boresvope to see before and after
Yeah sounds like carbon buildup on the piston head then. That won’t fix valve buildup because the spark plug well goes into the cylinder passing the valves.
awesome video, the endo camera made this so informational instead of jsut guessing
Yea, you did it wrong. After emptying the can of CRI, and idling back down, you're supposed to let it "heatsoak", meaning let it sit for an hour THEN drive it...
*QUESTION: What about adding paper glitter to the intake?*
Wouldn't the paper SCRUB the carbon, and get destroyed in the heat of the engine without damaging it? It seams that most "carbon cleaners" are designed to be DELAYED BURN products which act as abrasives before being destroyed by the combustion process. Thus...finding an abrasive which still gets destroyed is a matter of fine tuning the time vs abrasiveness. Paper seams to be a good choice given it's slow burn tendencies Vs it's abrasive characteristics.
I haven't use that, anything I use should be sensor safe and not damage throttle body, o2 sensor, there are so many harsh chemicals to remove carbon, but it will damage something else
Hey! Great video, could you also try amsoil power foam? seemd like that works
Thanks, sure I will give it a test too
This will never work on high mileage hard carbon deposits. This can only be used as a Maintenace duty every oil change . Then it might show significance at 100 k miles.
This generation of Camry is port injected only so the intake valve cleaner probably didn’t make much difference.
2017 Camry's have turbo's?! I didn't think they did
2ar fe is not gdi engine though...🤔
www.mariettatoyota.com/toyota-camry-performance/#:~:text=It%20boasts%20Toyota%20Direct%20Injection,intelligence%20(VVT%2Di).
@@AliMECH There is no high pressure fuel pump on your engine, thus it does not have direct injection.
D'oh...😲
Diesel car i can use thish
yes... and all those lovely chunks of carbon going thru your turbocharger..when the blades are spinning at 100,000 rpm...lol
I would spray 10% then let it soak for 15minutes then repeat for 10 times.
Brother did not work did not clean the carbon. 😢
Could you make another video using liqui moly valve cleaner.
I have been told that it is very good. 😁
Sure, i will try
I don't think you'll see results after one treatment. you'd have to do it several times. and let it sit for longer after spraying it
My Camry with 70 k miles has that and I guess my car was stalling
In the detailed video,you will see that he didn't find any difference before and after.
Of course, for one single time you are never ever clean any things. Unless you do it periodically.
👍👌
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This is the second video I saw where this brand was a waste of money
try liqui moly jet clean tronic.. work on me 😂
I will then if it worked for you 🙏😅
@@AliMECH tq, dont forget to make review too🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
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Must do again n again
DO NOT EXCEED 3,500 RPM aka not time for hard pulls
After you spayed all the chemicals, you WERE SUPPOSED TO LET THE CAR SIT FOR AT LEAST 1/2 hr to let the chemicals work.....
How are they supposed to still be there with the engine running at 2000 rpm? Just gets sucked in, burned and blown out the exhaust.
Stanton Mountains
Borat, is that you?
Bad fuel delivery method. Go back to what they had. Too much gunk.
The instructions are on the can man...how can you claim it don't work if you didn't follow simple directions...no heat soak no 3500 rpms dude you didn't use the product correctly!!!!
Wow u only have 50 k miles
Yes, the car is still new 😅
@@AliMECH how many miles to make it old
@@petermuniz9296 Years...
All that work for such minimal results .
Yes, I agree
Robinson Larry Perez Laura Harris Anna
You didn’t follow instructions
Won't buy it now
Maybe if I used it with light carbon, it will keep the engine clean