I neglected to upgrade my alternator after I installed an electric fan and Sniper EFI on my 66', and I got stranded on my way home from work😂. I bought a 140amp single wire and now the car charges at 13.8v at idle and 14.2 while cruising. Thanks for the great videos and helping others like us out.
You should reclock the alternator so the hot terminal is not near the block. Loosen the 4 small bolts and twist/turn the back of the alternator until the hot terminal is away from the engine. Don’t pull the two halves of the alternator apart while doing this
Yeah, this is what I should have done. But instead I got impatient and ended up with what I have. Oh well, I needed a new Alt belt anyways so when I bought it I got the next size up, which pivots the Alt a little more and now that terminal is not as close to the block. But you're right, I should have clocked the back of the housing. :)
Love this upgrade. The comments have all the pointers covered. Reclock the alternator to move the terminal away from the header, add a fuse (I did a resetable one), ground the alternator - I used a 5/16-18 x 1/2" button head screw - there is a threaded ground hole on the back of the alternator.
Starting by your voice tone and clearness... This video is absolutely great!!! Thank you so much, upgrading to a one wire altenator on my Plymouth Duster 1973 based in Costa Rica now. Gracias!
The internet and its algorithms are so good sometimes. I started looking for a high amp alternator for my 67 Pontiac Firebird today. I was like you and had been putting it off as I wasn't real sure about what to get and how to do it. A few hours later I go to TH-cam for some me time and the 1st recommended video was yours. You made it look easy so I've just ordered a new one. Thanks Andy
I bought a 65 ford f100 and the previous owner handed me a 1 wire alternator. I was unsure, being honest, scared to death of messing things up. After your calming, informative video I did mine. It’s so easy! Thank You!
Great video. I actually used your previous how-to on doing the Powermaster 75 amp last year. I needed more juice to run my Sniper EFI and went with a Tuff Stuff 100 amp 1 wire. Those also have the same issue with the positive terminal near and/or touching the block that you showed in this video. Instead of using a rubber boot, I "clocked" the alternator by removing the pulley and turning the case, thus moving the terminal to the opposite side. There are quite a few videos on this for anyone that wants to do it. Lastly, thanks for all your videos--they've been a great help to me!
Yeah, I completely spaced that these Alts could be clocked, and thinking back, it would have been easier to do that. I ended up needing to replace my Alt belt, so I went with the next size up and it pivoted the Alt out a pinch more and now I wouldn't need the boot on the terminal. :)
I highly recommend adding a circuit breaker on the hot wire going to the solenoid. I did this conversion about 6 months ago and had the same concerns as you. It seems too easy to be true but it is. I also added a grounding wire directly off of the back of the alternator to the block as well. I was forced to upgrade when I installed a fuel injection system and the voltage was too low to charge the battery. Good video!
I agree that a dedicated ground wire from alternator to block is best; it doesn't need to be anything special and you probably wouldn't even see it. Counting on the bracket fasteners to complete the ground is not ideal and could raise grounding resistance/cause issues etc. It usually says that in the instructions manual too as I recall. But a fresh alternator is nice peace of mind. Cool video!
@@Donny.C.wlWilliams as I understand it, the ground is through the body of the alternator and then to the block, then the body and then back to the battery. I spoke with Powermaster directly about this and they said it wasn’t needed but is a good idea. The Powermaster alternator I installed was a one wire 140amp. It has a post on the back for grounding as an option. I wanted to be certain that all of the amperage was returning back to the battery and not getting bottlenecked by weak connections. Also since I added a fuel injection system, I wanted to make all grounds were upgraded. So my block to firewall grounding strap was upgraded as well. Better to have more grounding than is needed as opposed to less.
What absolutely beautiful car you have there. Stunning !!! My fox buddy got but if I went for one but there he absolutely perfect! What a beautiful example and so tastefully executed.
Nice simple upgrade! Really nice car too! It's not that simple though for those that have a factory alternator fault indicator light and, or factory electric choke. The factory alternator fault light will remain on all the time with the ignition on, or never work since you unplugged the voltage regulator without adding a jumper wire. Lots of these old Fords with factory electric choke use a connection from the alternator stator connection. Just a heads up for those that may no be aware.
Yeah, the instructions cover how to wire in the fault light, I figured people would read the instructions anyway and possibly use the video to see things not outlined in the instructions. :)
Hey heard you on first gen podcast and I will say thank you, a few of your videos have popped up while I’m trying to find the answers I got my mustang when I was 21 and now I’m 26 3rd owner and it’s been all in the family a 66 coupe my grandma ordered it and years down the road my uncle bought it and 2018 I bought it I love driving it and working on it
It’s funny, more often than not when I search for a video, you have just uploaded a video on the exact subject. Thank you. I’m about to put a one wire alternator on my 347…
I have a 460 in a jet boat that I’ve been troubleshooting hot starts with for a while. I have been trying to learn whether I could upgrade to a high output, one wire alternator to keep the batteries at peak load. After watching your video, I am going to give it a shot. Wish me luck….. Will update in a few weeks.!
A higher amperage Alternator will help charge the batteries faster, ultimately keeping them at peak charge most of the time. But I'm not sure if that is going to change any hot start issues you may be having. A one-wire Alt will simplify your electrical setup, so it may help with troubleshooting electrical issues. :)
I’ll second the AAW harness choice for a retire. I’m in the process of installing one right now. Really complete kit and their tech support is great. Let me know if you decided to do one and you can borrow my two crimping tools. They are stupid expensive. Thanks for the video. I just ordered a powermaster one wire alternator last night!
It's great to hear more success stories with the AAW, I just wish it was something that didn't require so much time. Oh well, I cause good things come to those who wait. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I think a person could probably get it done in 2-3 days if you had the time to just focus on wiring for the whole day. The problem I’m running into is having three young kids so I have to start and stop a lot and having to order parts along the way. The kit is really nicely organized into specific areas, front, rear, engine, and main dash and gauge so you can do it in sections. I’m doing Dakota Digital gauges at the same time. I sound like a AAW salesman - lol! Good luck!
Been thinking about this on my 66 f100 for a few years. Alternator is making some noise so I thought I better check out the single wire option. Turns out it was exactly what I thought it’d be so thanks for sharing your video!
Final price of the Alternator? I put the part number in the description below for people to look it up because 5 years from now the price won't be what I said it was and I don't want to mislead people. :)
Great video just wondering I am about to do the same when removing the alternator regulator everything works fine in the car without doing any modifications
Correct. You can leave all the stock wiring where it is if you'd like, it won't affect the performance or function of the one-wire. I had the same concerns when I was researching this upgrade. Everyone kept saying you just swap it in and run the lead off the back of the Alt to the battery terminal on the starter solenoid. I kept thinking it was more complicated than that, but it's not. I have since rewired my car with an AAW harness, but before that I did end up removing all the associated wiring for the old Alt setup. That includes the voltage regulator that's mounted to the core support on the driver's side, near the top of the radiator. You've got this! It's an easy upgrade and it will clean up the engine bay when you're done. :)
Save everything, drove my 67 cougar from California to new York, lost the one wire setup in Reno you can only buy stock parts from auto parts stores on the road, had the old alternator in the trunk all was good
Thanks 👍 I wish I could take credit for the plug wires, but after seeing how the boys over at Prestige Motorsports Inc do their plug wires, I had to copy them. :)
I installed the One Wire alt to my new BP 306. The positive terminal of the alt almost touching the block was my main concern, same as your video. My solution was to increase the belt size from 39 5/8 to 40 inches Goodyear 3VX400 (+ almost 1/2 inch), also added washers to the top bolt to move the alt away from the block. The alt positive terminal now clears the block but not by much. Thanks for the video. Note 1: The alternator is not really One Wire it's a Two Wire system. One is the positive terminal and the second is the ground terminal. The ground terminal is not really needed since the alternator is grounded. That said I connected the alt to the block. Note 2: A longer belt such as a 41 inch belt will not work, the limiting factor becomes the adjusting bar below the alternator which does not have the needed range. I hope this makes sense.
You can also “clock” the housing by removing the four screws holding the two halves together and spinning the back around to the desired position. This will move the terminal away from the block, it’s how I have it now. 🙂
@@eddievantailn2882 Unfortunately TH-cam removed the ability to edit videos once they're posted, so I can't update it. I did discuss the ability to clock the housing in another video (and the mistake I made at that time), as well as show it on another vehicle. :)
I changed the 3wire alternator from my 70 Impala &, Our 68 Mustang GT to a 1wire. But, I did ground the alternator to the engine block for safety.!. Even though I didn’t have to I did it anyways. Runs like a Champ.😁🎉🙏🏽😇👍
You could rotate the case, also One Wire says you should be able to turn the motor by turning the alternator, that means an uber tight belt, plus you might want to consider a double belt.
Nice video, i did this on my 74 f250, but when i tried firing up, it wouldn't start, then I found the cable from the switch connected to the solenoid, but now it won't turn off I have to disconnect the same cable to turn it off, don't know if the previous owner did something whit the wiring, but im stuck on this problem now. Thanks for the video I which my truck was that simple.
It's tough to offer advice on what to do with weird wiring issues and not being there. Maybe put the stock Alt back on and then see if it will work like normal. If so, then try disconnecting one wire at a time that was connected to the old Alt harness (once you get the truck working correctly) and see if you're able to trace down where the problem might be. :)
Nice upgrade, Andy! I just did the same on my '65. The housing on this alternator is clockable so you can actually one-eighty the + terminal to get it clear of the engine. I also decided to go with a double V-belt system because that 100a alternator will probably offer a bit more mechanical resistance than the OEM unit. A double belt might be overkill but it should prevent any squealing at start-up even when the belts are a little worn. Where can I find that battery-mountrd breaker? Gotta get one!
Yeah, I didn't know until after I was done that it can be clocked, I may go back and fix that. I have that belt squeak you're talking about. I am looking into a better tensioner system for the Alternator since I can't quite seem to get it perfect. I may also swap over to a serpentine, 6 groove, style belt, but we'll see. That circuit breaker is a generic 200A unit off ebay. I paid about $10 for it.
@@AndyKruseChannel It's potato/potAHto with clocking the housing. The way you did it works fine and hides the wire completely. If you clock it you'll see the + wire, so it's really okay either way. Inspect that insulator boot periodically. Personally I would add a dedicated ground to the alternator, in case you ever add any electronics like an upgraded stereo, aftermarket EFI, etc. Again, it's all about personal preference. You MAY get rid of the squeal with a different tensioner but I think you will find that there is simply too much load on a single V-belt. You could switch to a serpentine or 6 groove, or a double V-belt. I went with the double-V because it still has that old-school look, while dividing the load between two belts (and in the event of one belt failing, I can probably still get home). My car doesn't have AC, PS, or a mechanical fan, so my belt system is as basic as it gets: Crank/alt/water pump!
Very informative and what guided me in my conversion. I am interested about the wire you refer to in the voltage regulator connection being hot when the car is on. I am wondering if you know if I can use that connection to power a fan relay.
Not likely. The reason is not the voltage source, but the amperage your fan will consume may be too much for that wire and the circuit it's on. I'd recommend a dedicated circuit for a fan. :)
Andy great video. Have a quick question if you do the 1 wire conversion and are also running a mini starter can you make the tie in at the starter power lug since there wouldn't be a starter solenoid?
Nice job, why didn’t you ground the alternator? I have the 140 amp and it runs my efi, electric fans, led head and taillight’s without issue. Love the wire tuck job.
How did you wire that circuit breaker to function as a quick disconnect for the battery ? Looks like a jumper cable from the positive battery post to the LINE terminal of the circuit breaker. Correct me if I’m wrong. What did you do with the ground ?
Correct, power wire from the positive terminal to the breaker, and then on the back side of the breaker there's the large battery wire that runs all the way up to the positive terminal on the start solenoid. Ground goes to one of the bumper bolts.
Thanks! Sort of, I did a video last December where I did a few things to clean up the engine bay before I got my new engine back from my builder. I talk about what I did with the starter solenoid and I show where everything is wired, but I didn't set up the camera and do a time lapse because it took a few hours. But the meat of it is in that "Cleaning up the Engine Bay" video. :)
Watching your video makes me wish I did this instead too lol. I have the same 75A altinator if it doesn't hold up to my new duel fan setup at lest I know what I'm doing next. Thanks for another great video 🙏
That 75A would be fine for my current setup. However, as I continue to upgrade, replace, mod, and change the car, I want to have the amperage for anything electrical I add down the road. Some people have more and less electrical requirements than me, so if someone already had a 75A Alt, it might be fine. Otherwise, here's a video on swapping to a one-wire, regardless of amperage. :)
I definitely need to upgrade my alternator. I have a sound system with amps and electric fans. Since I have a 66 Plymouth Fury, I feel it's best that I do an ammeter by-pass. I fear running the risk of a fire if I do not do so. Knowing nothing of Ford electrical systems, did you have to do the same?
I have replaced the gauges in my dash and I put in a (more useable) Voltmeter instead of the ammeter that was in the stock cluster. So I don't have any issues there. As far as how a one-wire alternator install would go in your car, I don't know enough about it to know if it's as easy as my car, but I suspect your car had an external voltage regulator like mine did. For me it really was as simple as install and go. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Yes the block is grounded, It's a heavy duty 9mm cable that runs directly to the negative side of the battery. The one wire alt is possible because the block is grounded. All that is needed is a connection to plus side of the battery.
I've been kicking around the idea of building either a 331 or 347 for my next engine. Is the extra low end torque from the 347 worth the cost over building the 302? You build cars like I would. Take a nice classic, restore it, then upgrade the drivetrain with an overdrive manual transmission! Do you have any idea what your car weighs as it sits now? I don't know if I want to do a fox body Mustang or a Maverick 🤔
My reasoning for a 347 over the 331 (aside from the additional TQ and HP) was that when it's all said and done, the dollar difference is almost negligible. It would have been somewhere around $500-$1000 cheaper for me to do the 331, which is still a nice chunk of money, but I'd do it the same every time. That extra grunt from this build is what you feel and that smile it generates is easily worth double! :)
Awesome video. I need to replace my alternator on 65 c10 truck. I've seen videos that say to check alternator fuse before changing alternator but I can't find it on my vehicle. It's 12v fuse box. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
I am not familiar with an alternator fuse, but I am also not familiar with older Chevy trucks either. I am sorry that I'm not much help on this one, but maybe you've got another issue I could help with? :)
Man, it looks great! I just put the black version on my 65. Next up is some 3.55 gears from quick performance. I hope you don't mind that I'm copying a lot of your build 😂
I almost got the black Alt, and half the time when I look in the engine bay I wish I would have. Cool, I think it's awesome that you're building your project with a lot of the same parts. Hopefully my videos provide you with enough info to get'r done! :)
So this part number, everywhere I check says it doesn't fit Mustangs. I wonder why that is? All of the "compatible" ones are 75 or 150amp. Seems to work fine on yours.
@@AndyKruseChannel Aye I saw that, maybe it's because it's missing the spacer (that you already had)? Only thing I can think of. That specific alt is a lot cheaper than the others so I want to run it too haha.
Did the same one wire upgrade keeping the stock generator wiring! Quick question I’ve got my 347 stroker ready to go everything is plugged and tight. How do i know which firing order my engine has? Is it based on the cam?
Correct, your cam is the key. I was fortunate that my engine builder reminded me, otherwise I would have organized the spark wires incorrectly. You should be able to look up the cam and see if it specifies which firing order. For mine, it references the Windsor firing order, as in 351W, not the 289/302 order. Good luck! :)
Hey what was the reason that you relocated the starter solenoid on your Mustang? I am doing the wiring right now on my 1968 Mustang fastback and was just asking if there was some advantage to mounting it there instead of the stock location.
There is no measurable performance advantage, or any advantage that I can think of other than going for the "less is more" look under the hood. I don't want to go full wire-tuck mode on this car, but I do want to simplify and clean up what's under the hood. Now that the battery is in the trunk, that solenoid looks kind of weird sitting by itself on the fender apron, so I moved it back a bit, to get it out of the way. :)
I do, it runs from the back of the Alt down below the engine and over to the starter solenoid. It’s a one-wire Alternator so everything is internal to the Alt. 🙂
I have a problem i added everything new from ignition to alternator now car wont start just cranks over only big electric thing i did was bypass the resistor wire . New alternator harness new engine firewall harness to selanoid and won't start what can it be checked every mechanical from spark to getting gas but nothing.
The purpose of the resistor wire is to provide limited voltage to the ignition coil so you don't burn out the Points in the ignition. This would happen over time, not instantly. If you have new (or old) Points, double check the gap is PERFECT, as I had this problem once and decided to just skip all that and get electronic ignition (like the Pertronix 1281). So bypassing the resistor wire is not likely the issue, so we can check that off the list. I'm guessing you didn't add a one-wire Alt because you said new alternator harness. I have not dug into this harness to know enough about the connections, but I do know that harness connects to the dash and other electrical components. For example, the Black wire with Yellow stripe is critical (comes off the Alt) and the Green wire with Red stripe is critical (comes of the Alternator Regulator mounted on the Radiator Core Support). Those two wires (really all the wires from the Alt and the Alt Reg) need to be routed correctly and connected to their correct locations. Maybe find a wiring diagram online for your year and start tracing wires? You can do continuity tests to make sure there isn't a break in the line somewhere. You say you're getting gas, so check that off. You say you're getting spark, but something isn't right here. It turns over, but doesn't fire, so we can eliminate the starter. Is there a wire from the ignition switch to the Coil? Is the "I" terminal on the starter solenoid connected to the Coil? It's tough to help without being there and knowing what got replaced and where the wires are. :)
Everything has been great. The alternator is doing exactly what I need and I am not having any voltage issues. The two biggest reasons I wanted to go one-wire was because it reduces the amount of wires I have under the hood (a theme I've been working on since I purchased the car) and when I rewire the car with the AAW kit, it will be required. :)
Hey Andy, do you have any tipps for a bad starting motor? Ive all ready changed (battery, sparkplug, Alternator, Distributor, sparkplug wires, starter) i think that was everything. I just dont know what to do now
That's difficult advice to give without knowing what is happening when trying to start the motor. You need air, fuel, and spark, but air is an easy one to check off the list because I doubt that air is not getting into your engine. Lack of fuel could be bad fuel, dirty filter, fuel pump is damaged or broken, and the jets could be clogged. Assuming all that stuff is fine, then spark is the last one. You mentioned you changed the distributor, but did you install it correctly and is the timing set correctly? That's a whole conversation, and there's a ton of videos to walk you through it. If your distro has Points, are they set correctly? Are the plugs wires routed in the correct firing order and to the correct plugs? Are the plugs gapped correctly? Is your coil working (you can test this by removing a plug and hold it to the block to see if there's spark when you try to start the motor). If the motor was running fine before but it's not after something was changed, I'd start there and see if that change is working correctly. If you've gone through the whole list and you're able to determine it's none of that stuff, it might be something internally that's not right, and from there it's a bigger process. Again, it's difficult to know what's wrong without knowing more about what's not happening when you try to fire up the engine. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks for the fast reply, if i try to start it it does take atleast 4-5 try´s each 5-6sec + pumping fuel with the gas pedal to start it. When the motor is warmed up it starts without a problem. All the changes i did where done with the 1966 shop-repair manual so i double checked every step. After all those changes it did not change a thing works like before, all those wires and timing are correct. Anyways thanks again
@@Dekoan01 Cool, sounds like we can rule out air and spark. If your carb doesn't have a choke or if it's not working correctly, this could play a role. You may want to review the idle adjustment and see if you can get to the best lean-idle condition. Also, if you're over fueling the motor by pumping too much during start, it can get flooded and not be happy. One thing that can work is to just hold the throttle down while turning the key and then let go once it fires up. Be careful though, if you wait too long on the throttle during this part, you can really rev the engine up quickly and cause damage. :)
looking to change my factory alt on my 85 caprice.. can I still hook the alt up the normal way how it came off the original alt or do I have to do the 1 wire way.. ?
Not sure of how your Alt is wired in your Caprice, but a one-wire would install the same on all vehicles, with the positive lead off the back of the Alt going to the positive battery terminal. :)
I just put a 7078 power master in my Maverick, it has an external regulator. When the engine is running the alternator hums, I disconnect the cable that is connected to Field and it stops humming but obviously it also stops loading, what could it be? I regret not having bought that single wire alternator, I had not seen it
I have very limited knowledge, but it sounds like you have a bad unit. However, there may be a wiring issue down stream causing the problem, so unfortunately I'm not going to be much help on this one. :)
Off the research I've been doing, it sounds like the exciter wire is back feeding and causes the alternator to run on full. Literally just came from a car meet and everyone around when describing my problem said to just get a 1 wire so that's why I'm watching this vid. 🍻
You can spin the back part of the alternator so the connection bolt is on the other side and completely out of the way. Very easy. Loosen little bolts connecting back of alt seperates a quarter of an inch and spin it. Problem solved
@@jeeplifted1 One thing to point out, while my pan holds more oil than normal, it's still the same depth. My pan has those "wings" on it to make more room for oil, so the dipstick still sits at the correct depth to read correctly. If your pan is deeper than a normal pan, the dipstick may not ready correctly. :)
Hey there, will this work for a 67 6 cylinder mustang too? same alternator? Also, are there competitors making 1 wire alternators for these cars? How'd you settle on this one?
Yes, this will work on your 6 cyl, but you may need to chase down a specific part number as the mounting location, mounting depth, pulley size, pulley depth, etc all play a role in which specific unit you purchase. You don't necessarily need to know all those specs, you just search by finding which specific model is made for your engine and model year. The specifics about the wiring will more or less be the same. The simplest part is you can just unplug all the stuff attached to the back of your current alternator and leave it, if you want. The new Alternator will just have a single wire that will go to the battery post on your starter solenoid. Other than getting the model that fits your engine, the other factor is the amperage it generates. You may find a lower amperage one-wire is a better fit, like a 75A instead of the 100A I have here. I have had good luck with PowerMaster, that's what I have here, so I continue to use them. I believe Tuff Stuff is a competitor, and I think if if I was to get a 75A unit, I'd get one of theirs because PowerMaster doesn't seem to have one for my car.
@@ceelo3324 You can leave it bolted to the core support, and even leave the harness plugged in if you like, it's not hurting anything. There were some wires that attached to the back of the previous Alternator that went to the voltage regulator, but now that those wires are not hooked up, that voltage regulator is just sitting there. A lot of people will go as far as to remove that wiring now that it's useless, but I wasn't in the mood for the extra work. I'd like to do a full re-wire of the car, so this will get addressed at that point anyway. :)
The one cable system needs a fusible link, if the alternator shorts out then you can have a car fire. I appreciate your work on the Mustang, I have a Tiger. Remember safety.
The wire off the back of the Alternator goes to the same terminal on the Starter Solenoid where the Battery Wire attaches. I point at that terminal at the 10:13 mark. :)
@@reyzapata9375 I think the confusion I am having is the red and brown wires that attach to the starter solenoid are not part of the upgrade when installing a one-wire alternator (which is what I am doing in this video). If you're asking a separate question about what wires need to attach to the solenoid and you're not doing this alternator upgrade, then I would say leave those wires attached. The red wire goes to the factory Ammeter gauge (which probably doesn't work anyway, they always fail), from the solenoid through the wiring harness that attaches to the firewall. The brown wire goes from the solenoid to the positive side of the Coil, and it also goes through the firewall and connects to your key ignition switch. 🙂
That's fine, mine is essentially the same thing since the wire from the battery and the wire from the Alt are connected at the same terminal on the Starter Solenoid. :)
For anyone considering a "1-wire" alternator, do your research first. It's not really an "upgrade". It's a compromise. Sorry, but they are limited because of the elimination of the other two wires that they really do need in order to work reliably and efficiently.
The one-wire alternator is internally regulated, so it does not need the external voltage regulator that was installed from the factory. Also, I think you and I might be defining an 'upgrade' differently.
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I neglected to upgrade my alternator after I installed an electric fan and Sniper EFI on my 66', and I got stranded on my way home from work😂. I bought a 140amp single wire and now the car charges at 13.8v at idle and 14.2 while cruising.
Thanks for the great videos and helping others like us out.
Yeah, that's one of the main reasons I'm upgrading, I want to make sure I'm creating the amperage that future upgrades may need. :)
Excellent description of each step with clear voice and video. And special thanks for not subjecting us to annoying background music.
You're welcome.
Dittos
You should reclock the alternator so the hot terminal is not near the block. Loosen the 4 small bolts and twist/turn the back of the alternator until the hot terminal is away from the engine. Don’t pull the two halves of the alternator apart while doing this
Yeah, this is what I should have done. But instead I got impatient and ended up with what I have. Oh well, I needed a new Alt belt anyways so when I bought it I got the next size up, which pivots the Alt a little more and now that terminal is not as close to the block. But you're right, I should have clocked the back of the housing. :)
Keep posting those videos
What side of the starter solenoid did you attach to? Same side as the hot battery cable?
Love this upgrade. The comments have all the pointers covered. Reclock the alternator to move the terminal away from the header, add a fuse (I did a resetable one), ground the alternator - I used a 5/16-18 x 1/2" button head screw - there is a threaded ground hole on the back of the alternator.
Yeah, there is usually some great additional info in the comments. :)
Looks like a clean install to be Andy. Love watching the car progress. Here's hoping for clear and warm weather to get out and drive!
Thanks!! Weather is getting better every day. :)
Starting by your voice tone and clearness... This video is absolutely great!!! Thank you so much, upgrading to a one wire altenator on my Plymouth Duster 1973 based in Costa Rica now. Gracias!
Awesome, I'm glad it helped. :)
The internet and its algorithms are so good sometimes. I started looking for a high amp alternator for my 67 Pontiac Firebird today. I was like you and had been putting it off as I wasn't real sure about what to get and how to do it. A few hours later I go to TH-cam for some me time and the 1st recommended video was yours. You made it look easy so I've just ordered a new one. Thanks Andy
Awesome! I'm glad you're able to pull some value from my videos. :)
I bought a 65 ford f100 and the previous owner handed me a 1 wire alternator. I was unsure, being honest, scared to death of messing things up. After your calming, informative video I did mine. It’s so easy! Thank You!
Awesome, thanks for the support! :)
Great video. I actually used your previous how-to on doing the Powermaster 75 amp last year. I needed more juice to run my Sniper EFI and went with a Tuff Stuff 100 amp 1 wire. Those also have the same issue with the positive terminal near and/or touching the block that you showed in this video. Instead of using a rubber boot, I "clocked" the alternator by removing the pulley and turning the case, thus moving the terminal to the opposite side. There are quite a few videos on this for anyone that wants to do it. Lastly, thanks for all your videos--they've been a great help to me!
Yeah, I completely spaced that these Alts could be clocked, and thinking back, it would have been easier to do that. I ended up needing to replace my Alt belt, so I went with the next size up and it pivoted the Alt out a pinch more and now I wouldn't need the boot on the terminal. :)
I highly recommend adding a circuit breaker on the hot wire going to the solenoid. I did this conversion about 6 months ago and had the same concerns as you. It seems too easy to be true but it is. I also added a grounding wire directly off of the back of the alternator to the block as well. I was forced to upgrade when I installed a fuel injection system and the voltage was too low to charge the battery. Good video!
I agree that a dedicated ground wire from alternator to block is best; it doesn't need to be anything special and you probably wouldn't even see it. Counting on the bracket fasteners to complete the ground is not ideal and could raise grounding resistance/cause issues etc. It usually says that in the instructions manual too as I recall. But a fresh alternator is nice peace of mind. Cool video!
Why if the alternator internally grounded, assuming the block itself is grounded properly?@Matt Cornett
Thanks!
@@Donny.C.wlWilliams as I understand it, the ground is through the body of the alternator and then to the block, then the body and then back to the battery. I spoke with Powermaster directly about this and they said it wasn’t needed but is a good idea. The Powermaster alternator I installed was a one wire 140amp. It has a post on the back for grounding as an option. I wanted to be certain that all of the amperage was returning back to the battery and not getting bottlenecked by weak connections. Also since I added a fuel injection system, I wanted to make all grounds were upgraded. So my block to firewall grounding strap was upgraded as well. Better to have more grounding than is needed as opposed to less.
@Matt Cornett so we agree u just went above and beyond no problem there! Thanks
clean, detailed, no mumbling, great video & precise instructions.
I appreciate that!
No mumbling…. lol.
What absolutely beautiful car you have there. Stunning !!! My fox buddy got but if I went for one but there he absolutely perfect! What a beautiful example and so tastefully executed.
Thanks 👍
Nice simple upgrade! Really nice car too!
It's not that simple though for those that have a factory alternator fault indicator light and, or factory electric choke. The factory alternator fault light will remain on all the time with the ignition on, or never work since you unplugged the voltage regulator without adding a jumper wire. Lots of these old Fords with factory electric choke use a connection from the alternator stator connection. Just a heads up for those that may no be aware.
Yeah, the instructions cover how to wire in the fault light, I figured people would read the instructions anyway and possibly use the video to see things not outlined in the instructions. :)
@AndyKruseChannel yes, but it's not on the video, which could mislead a person at a glance.
Awesome Andy. Very clean install. I did the same. When I upgraded to American auto wire. I heard horror stories form Painless. So opted for AAW. 👏🏼
Yeah, I've put AAW down on the list for when I get around to rewiring the car. :)
Painless20120 22 circuit kit was going to order it, what part number for AAW? TIA
Hey heard you on first gen podcast and I will say thank you, a few of your videos have popped up while I’m trying to find the answers I got my mustang when I was 21 and now I’m 26 3rd owner and it’s been all in the family a 66 coupe my grandma ordered it and years down the road my uncle bought it and 2018 I bought it I love driving it and working on it
Welcome!
That's one thing that is cool about this hobby, there's usually a great story to go with the build. :)
Really like the unique location of the starter solenoid - I am going to copy this idea.
Awesome, you've got this! :)
It’s funny, more often than not when I search for a video, you have just uploaded a video on the exact subject. Thank you. I’m about to put a one wire alternator on my 347…
Nice. What's next on your list so I can do that video too? :)
I have a 460 in a jet boat that I’ve been troubleshooting hot starts with for a while.
I have been trying to learn whether I could upgrade to a high output, one wire alternator to keep the batteries at peak load.
After watching your video, I am going to give it a shot.
Wish me luck….. Will update in a few weeks.!
A higher amperage Alternator will help charge the batteries faster, ultimately keeping them at peak charge most of the time. But I'm not sure if that is going to change any hot start issues you may be having. A one-wire Alt will simplify your electrical setup, so it may help with troubleshooting electrical issues. :)
I’ll second the AAW harness choice for a retire. I’m in the process of installing one right now. Really complete kit and their tech support is great. Let me know if you decided to do one and you can borrow my two crimping tools. They are stupid expensive. Thanks for the video. I just ordered a powermaster one wire alternator last night!
It's great to hear more success stories with the AAW, I just wish it was something that didn't require so much time. Oh well, I cause good things come to those who wait. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I think a person could probably get it done in 2-3 days if you had the time to just focus on wiring for the whole day. The problem I’m running into is having three young kids so I have to start and stop a lot and having to order parts along the way. The kit is really nicely organized into specific areas, front, rear, engine, and main dash and gauge so you can do it in sections. I’m doing Dakota Digital gauges at the same time. I sound like a AAW salesman - lol! Good luck!
Been thinking about this on my 66 f100 for a few years. Alternator is making some noise so I thought I better check out the single wire option. Turns out it was exactly what I thought it’d be so thanks for sharing your video!
Awesome! This is a super simple upgrade that truly is plug-n-play. Sometimes I wish other upgrades were as effective and simple. :)
Love the clean wire install. I’d have the same concern about how close the wire is to the boss.
Thanks! I'm setting all these pins for you to knock down with your build. :)
love to see a final price break down video. i have a 67 and thinking of doing similar upgrades.
Final price of the Alternator? I put the part number in the description below for people to look it up because 5 years from now the price won't be what I said it was and I don't want to mislead people. :)
Great video just wondering I am about to do the same when removing the alternator regulator everything works fine in the car without doing any modifications
Correct. You can leave all the stock wiring where it is if you'd like, it won't affect the performance or function of the one-wire.
I had the same concerns when I was researching this upgrade. Everyone kept saying you just swap it in and run the lead off the back of the Alt to the battery terminal on the starter solenoid. I kept thinking it was more complicated than that, but it's not. I have since rewired my car with an AAW harness, but before that I did end up removing all the associated wiring for the old Alt setup. That includes the voltage regulator that's mounted to the core support on the driver's side, near the top of the radiator.
You've got this! It's an easy upgrade and it will clean up the engine bay when you're done. :)
This helped. Getting ready to install a one wire on my 73 Continental. Been watching videos too before the big day. Lol
Good luck, you’ve got this! 🙂
Save everything, drove my 67 cougar from California to new York, lost the one wire setup in Reno you can only buy stock parts from auto parts stores on the road, had the old alternator in the trunk all was good
Yeah, you never know what might happen down the road. :)
Not so Advance auto parts sells one wire Alt. Have done it !!
Nice neat work. I could not have done better myself. Also notice how neat your spark plug wires are routed. Looks great, Sounds better.
Thanks 👍
I wish I could take credit for the plug wires, but after seeing how the boys over at Prestige Motorsports Inc do their plug wires, I had to copy them. :)
Thank you so much for basically all your videos, tremendous help.
No problem, happy to help. It's always great to hear people are finding value form my videos. :)
Do you have a part number for the breaker on batteray? Thanks
No, it was a generic unit I purchased off eBay. It’s a 200A breaker, so that should help when you’re looking for it. 🙂
Found on video moving batteray to trunk Thanks@@AndyKruseChannel
I installed the One Wire alt to my new BP 306. The positive terminal of the alt almost touching the block was my main concern, same as your video. My solution was to increase the belt size from 39 5/8 to 40 inches Goodyear 3VX400 (+ almost 1/2 inch), also added washers to the top bolt to move the alt away from the block. The alt positive terminal now clears the block but not by much. Thanks for the video.
Note 1: The alternator is not really One Wire it's a Two Wire system. One is the positive terminal and the second is the ground terminal. The ground terminal is not really needed since the alternator is grounded. That said I connected the alt to the block.
Note 2: A longer belt such as a 41 inch belt will not work, the limiting factor becomes the adjusting bar below the alternator which does not have the needed range. I hope this makes sense.
You can also “clock” the housing by removing the four screws holding the two halves together and spinning the back around to the desired position. This will move the terminal away from the block, it’s how I have it now. 🙂
@@AndyKruseChannel That's what the forum suggested as well. Do you think updating the video will help?
@@eddievantailn2882 Unfortunately TH-cam removed the ability to edit videos once they're posted, so I can't update it. I did discuss the ability to clock the housing in another video (and the mistake I made at that time), as well as show it on another vehicle. :)
I changed the 3wire alternator from my 70 Impala &, Our 68 Mustang GT to a 1wire. But, I did ground the alternator to the engine block for safety.!.
Even though I didn’t have to I did it anyways. Runs like a Champ.😁🎉🙏🏽😇👍
Yeah, everyone has their way they like doing things, and there’s nothing wrong with adding a ground wire. 🙂
You could rotate the case, also One Wire says you should be able to turn the motor by turning the alternator, that means an uber tight belt, plus you might want to consider a double belt.
Yeah, I didn't pay attention to that part.
Great video Andy!
Thanks!!
Great video once again. I also installed one. Question: should I install a fuse between the alternator and solenoid?
Nope, it's good as is. :)
Great job, been thinking about this upgrade too
Thanks! Yeah, I should have just done this to begin with, it would have saved me a few bucks. :)
Nice video, i did this on my 74 f250, but when i tried firing up, it wouldn't start, then I found the cable from the switch connected to the solenoid, but now it won't turn off I have to disconnect the same cable to turn it off, don't know if the previous owner did something whit the wiring, but im stuck on this problem now.
Thanks for the video I which my truck was that simple.
It's tough to offer advice on what to do with weird wiring issues and not being there. Maybe put the stock Alt back on and then see if it will work like normal. If so, then try disconnecting one wire at a time that was connected to the old Alt harness (once you get the truck working correctly) and see if you're able to trace down where the problem might be. :)
@AndyKruseChannel that's great advice. Thanks!
Did this to my 1968 Ford Ranchero and HEI Distributor too all easy
Yeah, I like these easy upgrades too. :)
Ooh I’m going to do my fastback thanks bro
Nice!
Nice upgrade, Andy! I just did the same on my '65. The housing on this alternator is clockable so you can actually one-eighty the + terminal to get it clear of the engine.
I also decided to go with a double V-belt system because that 100a alternator will probably offer a bit more mechanical resistance than the OEM unit. A double belt might be overkill but it should prevent any squealing at start-up even when the belts are a little worn.
Where can I find that battery-mountrd breaker? Gotta get one!
Yeah, I didn't know until after I was done that it can be clocked, I may go back and fix that.
I have that belt squeak you're talking about. I am looking into a better tensioner system for the Alternator since I can't quite seem to get it perfect. I may also swap over to a serpentine, 6 groove, style belt, but we'll see.
That circuit breaker is a generic 200A unit off ebay. I paid about $10 for it.
@@AndyKruseChannel It's potato/potAHto with clocking the housing. The way you did it works fine and hides the wire completely. If you clock it you'll see the + wire, so it's really okay either way. Inspect that insulator boot periodically. Personally I would add a dedicated ground to the alternator, in case you ever add any electronics like an upgraded stereo, aftermarket EFI, etc. Again, it's all about personal preference.
You MAY get rid of the squeal with a different tensioner but I think you will find that there is simply too much load on a single V-belt. You could switch to a serpentine or 6 groove, or a double V-belt. I went with the double-V because it still has that old-school look, while dividing the load between two belts (and in the event of one belt failing, I can probably still get home). My car doesn't have AC, PS, or a mechanical fan, so my belt system is as basic as it gets: Crank/alt/water pump!
Very informative and what guided me in my conversion. I am interested about the wire you refer to in the voltage regulator connection being hot when the car is on. I am wondering if you know if I can use that connection to power a fan relay.
Not likely. The reason is not the voltage source, but the amperage your fan will consume may be too much for that wire and the circuit it's on. I'd recommend a dedicated circuit for a fan. :)
Andy great video. Have a quick question if you do the 1 wire conversion and are also running a mini starter can you make the tie in at the starter power lug since there wouldn't be a starter solenoid?
Not sure why you would still have a starter solenoid, I have a mini starter and still use the starter solenoid.
Nice job, why didn’t you ground the alternator? I have the 140 amp and it runs my efi, electric fans, led head and taillight’s without issue. Love the wire tuck job.
Because the way it's mounted provides a ground. Otherwise, Powermaster would make it so it wouldn't run without a dedicated ground. :)
Aw man for your setup a chrome finish would have been perfect!
Nah, I don’t care for chrome.
Never mind I see you put it in another vid , thanks
No problem. 🙂
I'd change that eye (smaller) on the cable end to the alternator, that can give you issues.
Yeah, I thought about it, but it's been fine for a few weeks now. :)
How did you wire that circuit breaker to function as a quick disconnect for the battery ? Looks like a jumper cable from the positive battery post to the LINE terminal of the circuit breaker. Correct me if I’m wrong. What did you do with the ground ?
Correct, power wire from the positive terminal to the breaker, and then on the back side of the breaker there's the large battery wire that runs all the way up to the positive terminal on the start solenoid.
Ground goes to one of the bumper bolts.
Thank you for the information I needed this lol!!
No problem!!
Great video and beautiful car you have. Do you think one of those one wire alternators would work on my 1972 F100?
Thanks!
Yes, and it will be as easy to hook it up as it was in this video. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel cool, thank you and keep up the good work
looks good... do you have a video showing you moving starter solenoid to the backside of the shock tower?
Thanks!
Sort of, I did a video last December where I did a few things to clean up the engine bay before I got my new engine back from my builder. I talk about what I did with the starter solenoid and I show where everything is wired, but I didn't set up the camera and do a time lapse because it took a few hours. But the meat of it is in that "Cleaning up the Engine Bay" video. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel i like it! thanks!
Watching your video makes me wish I did this instead too lol. I have the same 75A altinator if it doesn't hold up to my new duel fan setup at lest I know what I'm doing next. Thanks for another great video 🙏
That 75A would be fine for my current setup. However, as I continue to upgrade, replace, mod, and change the car, I want to have the amperage for anything electrical I add down the road. Some people have more and less electrical requirements than me, so if someone already had a 75A Alt, it might be fine. Otherwise, here's a video on swapping to a one-wire, regardless of amperage. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel yeah I'll also be running an efi pump and holley terminator x max kit so we will see lol
I definitely need to upgrade my alternator. I have a sound system with amps and electric fans. Since I have a 66 Plymouth Fury, I feel it's best that I do an ammeter by-pass. I fear running the risk of a fire if I do not do so. Knowing nothing of Ford electrical systems, did you have to do the same?
I have replaced the gauges in my dash and I put in a (more useable) Voltmeter instead of the ammeter that was in the stock cluster. So I don't have any issues there.
As far as how a one-wire alternator install would go in your car, I don't know enough about it to know if it's as easy as my car, but I suspect your car had an external voltage regulator like mine did. For me it really was as simple as install and go. :)
Are all the alternator screws ground or does it have to be the one shown?
The main pivot bolt that goes into the passenger head is grounded because my block is grounded. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Yes the block is grounded, It's a heavy duty 9mm cable that runs directly to the negative side of the battery. The one wire alt is possible because the block is grounded. All that is needed is a connection to plus side of the battery.
I've been kicking around the idea of building either a 331 or 347 for my next engine. Is the extra low end torque from the 347 worth the cost over building the 302? You build cars like I would. Take a nice classic, restore it, then upgrade the drivetrain with an overdrive manual transmission! Do you have any idea what your car weighs as it sits now? I don't know if I want to do a fox body Mustang or a Maverick 🤔
My reasoning for a 347 over the 331 (aside from the additional TQ and HP) was that when it's all said and done, the dollar difference is almost negligible. It would have been somewhere around $500-$1000 cheaper for me to do the 331, which is still a nice chunk of money, but I'd do it the same every time. That extra grunt from this build is what you feel and that smile it generates is easily worth double! :)
Well done
Thanks!
You going to raffle off the old unit? "Asking for a friend". As always well done!!!!!
I don't know what I'm going to do with it yet. :)
How does the battery charge without a connection to the new alternator.
Not sure, it's probably black magic. :)
Do you still have the video where you installed the dual fan setup? I’m thinking of doing that to my ‘70.
Yep. th-cam.com/video/MLRlz8non10/w-d-xo.html
Awesome video. I need to replace my alternator on 65 c10 truck. I've seen videos that say to check alternator fuse before changing alternator but I can't find it on my vehicle. It's 12v fuse box. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
I am not familiar with an alternator fuse, but I am also not familiar with older Chevy trucks either. I am sorry that I'm not much help on this one, but maybe you've got another issue I could help with? :)
Man, it looks great! I just put the black version on my 65. Next up is some 3.55 gears from quick performance. I hope you don't mind that I'm copying a lot of your build 😂
I almost got the black Alt, and half the time when I look in the engine bay I wish I would have.
Cool, I think it's awesome that you're building your project with a lot of the same parts. Hopefully my videos provide you with enough info to get'r done! :)
Love your channel…..Thank you.
Thank you!!
Noticed you’ve moved the starter solenoid and have relocated the battery to the trunk , was this an easy job, or a PITA ?
Not really, just time consuming. I've got a few videos on what all was done to make it work, you should check them out. :)
Nice job. What fan are u running on radiator.. and are you happy with the way it works
It’s from a ‘99 Ford Contour, and it is fantastic. I made a video about it a while back.
So this part number, everywhere I check says it doesn't fit Mustangs. I wonder why that is? All of the "compatible" ones are 75 or 150amp. Seems to work fine on yours.
Zero issues. 🙂
@@AndyKruseChannel Aye I saw that, maybe it's because it's missing the spacer (that you already had)? Only thing I can think of. That specific alt is a lot cheaper than the others so I want to run it too haha.
Did you use the same size belt or did you have to go with a different size? Smaller or larger? Thanks
The same belt will work, but it's a great time to refresh it with a new unit. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks man
Show de bola seus videos brother!!!! meu sonho um mustang desses... se Deus quiser irei realizar!!!! Parabéns
Obrigado! Um dia você vai conseguir seu carro, basta continuar trabalhando pelo seu sonho. :)
Did the cigarette lighter say "fire missiles"???
Yes, but I removed the actual light portion, it's just a plug. :)
Did the same one wire upgrade keeping the stock generator wiring! Quick question I’ve got my 347 stroker ready to go everything is plugged and tight. How do i know which firing order my engine has? Is it based on the cam?
Correct, your cam is the key. I was fortunate that my engine builder reminded me, otherwise I would have organized the spark wires incorrectly. You should be able to look up the cam and see if it specifies which firing order. For mine, it references the Windsor firing order, as in 351W, not the 289/302 order. Good luck! :)
Hey what was the reason that you relocated the starter solenoid on your Mustang? I am doing the wiring right now on my 1968 Mustang fastback and was just asking if there was some advantage to mounting it there instead of the stock location.
There is no measurable performance advantage, or any advantage that I can think of other than going for the "less is more" look under the hood. I don't want to go full wire-tuck mode on this car, but I do want to simplify and clean up what's under the hood. Now that the battery is in the trunk, that solenoid looks kind of weird sitting by itself on the fender apron, so I moved it back a bit, to get it out of the way. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Ok that makes sense. Have you had any problems with the one wire alternator and do you think it was a good modification or upgrade?
Why do you have no connection between the alternator and the battery? What is charging your battery?
I do, it runs from the back of the Alt down below the engine and over to the starter solenoid. It’s a one-wire Alternator so everything is internal to the Alt. 🙂
I have a problem i added everything new from ignition to alternator now car wont start just cranks over only big electric thing i did was bypass the resistor wire . New alternator harness new engine firewall harness to selanoid and won't start what can it be checked every mechanical from spark to getting gas but nothing.
The purpose of the resistor wire is to provide limited voltage to the ignition coil so you don't burn out the Points in the ignition. This would happen over time, not instantly. If you have new (or old) Points, double check the gap is PERFECT, as I had this problem once and decided to just skip all that and get electronic ignition (like the Pertronix 1281).
So bypassing the resistor wire is not likely the issue, so we can check that off the list.
I'm guessing you didn't add a one-wire Alt because you said new alternator harness. I have not dug into this harness to know enough about the connections, but I do know that harness connects to the dash and other electrical components. For example, the Black wire with Yellow stripe is critical (comes off the Alt) and the Green wire with Red stripe is critical (comes of the Alternator Regulator mounted on the Radiator Core Support). Those two wires (really all the wires from the Alt and the Alt Reg) need to be routed correctly and connected to their correct locations. Maybe find a wiring diagram online for your year and start tracing wires? You can do continuity tests to make sure there isn't a break in the line somewhere.
You say you're getting gas, so check that off.
You say you're getting spark, but something isn't right here. It turns over, but doesn't fire, so we can eliminate the starter. Is there a wire from the ignition switch to the Coil? Is the "I" terminal on the starter solenoid connected to the Coil?
It's tough to help without being there and knowing what got replaced and where the wires are. :)
Have you had any problems with the one wire alternator and do you think it was a good modification or upgrade?
Everything has been great. The alternator is doing exactly what I need and I am not having any voltage issues. The two biggest reasons I wanted to go one-wire was because it reduces the amount of wires I have under the hood (a theme I've been working on since I purchased the car) and when I rewire the car with the AAW kit, it will be required. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I am currently installing the AAW kit in my 1968 Mustang Shelby GT500KR tribute.
Hey Andy, do you have any tipps for a bad starting motor? Ive all ready changed (battery, sparkplug, Alternator, Distributor, sparkplug wires, starter) i think that was everything.
I just dont know what to do now
That's difficult advice to give without knowing what is happening when trying to start the motor. You need air, fuel, and spark, but air is an easy one to check off the list because I doubt that air is not getting into your engine. Lack of fuel could be bad fuel, dirty filter, fuel pump is damaged or broken, and the jets could be clogged. Assuming all that stuff is fine, then spark is the last one. You mentioned you changed the distributor, but did you install it correctly and is the timing set correctly? That's a whole conversation, and there's a ton of videos to walk you through it. If your distro has Points, are they set correctly? Are the plugs wires routed in the correct firing order and to the correct plugs? Are the plugs gapped correctly? Is your coil working (you can test this by removing a plug and hold it to the block to see if there's spark when you try to start the motor). If the motor was running fine before but it's not after something was changed, I'd start there and see if that change is working correctly. If you've gone through the whole list and you're able to determine it's none of that stuff, it might be something internally that's not right, and from there it's a bigger process. Again, it's difficult to know what's wrong without knowing more about what's not happening when you try to fire up the engine. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks for the fast reply, if i try to start it it does take atleast 4-5 try´s each 5-6sec + pumping fuel with the gas pedal to start it. When the motor is warmed up it starts without a problem. All the changes i did where done with the 1966 shop-repair manual so i double checked every step. After all those changes it did not change a thing works like before, all those wires and timing are correct. Anyways thanks again
@@Dekoan01 Cool, sounds like we can rule out air and spark. If your carb doesn't have a choke or if it's not working correctly, this could play a role. You may want to review the idle adjustment and see if you can get to the best lean-idle condition. Also, if you're over fueling the motor by pumping too much during start, it can get flooded and not be happy. One thing that can work is to just hold the throttle down while turning the key and then let go once it fires up. Be careful though, if you wait too long on the throttle during this part, you can really rev the engine up quickly and cause damage. :)
looking to change my factory alt on my 85 caprice.. can I still hook the alt up the normal way how it came off the original alt or do I have to do the 1 wire way.. ?
Not sure of how your Alt is wired in your Caprice, but a one-wire would install the same on all vehicles, with the positive lead off the back of the Alt going to the positive battery terminal. :)
@AndyKruseChannel on the back .. the ground and power wire is bolted down together .. and on the top side there's a plug plugged in..
How did you connect a ground to the alternator?
The large bolt on top that secures the alternator to the head.
Andy , Where did you get your battery circuit breaker
It’s a generic 200A unit I bought off eBay. Still works great, no issues. 😁
I just put a 7078 power master in my Maverick, it has an external regulator. When the engine is running the alternator hums, I disconnect the cable that is connected to Field and it stops humming but obviously it also stops loading, what could it be? I regret not having bought that single wire alternator, I had not seen it
I have very limited knowledge, but it sounds like you have a bad unit. However, there may be a wiring issue down stream causing the problem, so unfortunately I'm not going to be much help on this one. :)
Off the research I've been doing, it sounds like the exciter wire is back feeding and causes the alternator to run on full. Literally just came from a car meet and everyone around when describing my problem said to just get a 1 wire so that's why I'm watching this vid. 🍻
Thank you.
You're welcome!
I would leave the regular on
for originality
ok
Awesome video! That’s a worthwhile mod. Did you get a new camera or something? Your video quality looks great!
Thanks!
Nope, same GoPro I've had for a while. Sometimes I forget to adjust the resolution during editing, maybe this time I got it right? :)
You can spin the back part of the alternator so the connection bolt is on the other side and completely out of the way. Very easy. Loosen little bolts connecting back of alt seperates a quarter of an inch and spin it. Problem solved
Yeah, I need to do that. :)
Do you have to run a ground from it ?
You can if you want.
Are you running your volt meter off your 12v key switch or running to the starter relay?
It's been a while, if I recall, it's running off the ignition in the dash. :)
Great video!! Quick question what dipstick are you using with that deep pan??
Just a normal OEM-style dipstick, part number C5ZZ-6750-K. I got it off eBay for about $30.
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks. I have a 7 quart pan. Didn’t see one of them recommended for it so wasn’t sure what to buy
@@jeeplifted1 One thing to point out, while my pan holds more oil than normal, it's still the same depth. My pan has those "wings" on it to make more room for oil, so the dipstick still sits at the correct depth to read correctly. If your pan is deeper than a normal pan, the dipstick may not ready correctly. :)
Hey there, will this work for a 67 6 cylinder mustang too? same alternator? Also, are there competitors making 1 wire alternators for these cars? How'd you settle on this one?
Yes, this will work on your 6 cyl, but you may need to chase down a specific part number as the mounting location, mounting depth, pulley size, pulley depth, etc all play a role in which specific unit you purchase. You don't necessarily need to know all those specs, you just search by finding which specific model is made for your engine and model year. The specifics about the wiring will more or less be the same. The simplest part is you can just unplug all the stuff attached to the back of your current alternator and leave it, if you want. The new Alternator will just have a single wire that will go to the battery post on your starter solenoid.
Other than getting the model that fits your engine, the other factor is the amperage it generates. You may find a lower amperage one-wire is a better fit, like a 75A instead of the 100A I have here. I have had good luck with PowerMaster, that's what I have here, so I continue to use them. I believe Tuff Stuff is a competitor, and I think if if I was to get a 75A unit, I'd get one of theirs because PowerMaster doesn't seem to have one for my car.
@@AndyKruseChannel TY for the response :) I just subbed to the channel :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Just ordered a Tuff Stuff 7068. :D
@@AndyKruseChannel Question, is it required to keep the external voltage regulator plugged in? I removed mine but maybe that was a mistake...
@@ceelo3324 You can leave it bolted to the core support, and even leave the harness plugged in if you like, it's not hurting anything. There were some wires that attached to the back of the previous Alternator that went to the voltage regulator, but now that those wires are not hooked up, that voltage regulator is just sitting there. A lot of people will go as far as to remove that wiring now that it's useless, but I wasn't in the mood for the extra work. I'd like to do a full re-wire of the car, so this will get addressed at that point anyway. :)
Where did you get the battery switch? Brand/model?
Off eBay, it’s a generic 200A unit. 🙂
The one cable system needs a fusible link, if the alternator shorts out then you can have a car fire. I appreciate your work on the Mustang, I have a Tiger. Remember safety.
Thanks for the heads up. :)
What wire should I keep on the Solenoid.?. Do I keep the red and brown wire.
The wire off the back of the Alternator goes to the same terminal on the Starter Solenoid where the Battery Wire attaches. I point at that terminal at the 10:13 mark. :)
I’m sorry forgot to mention I doing a 1 wire conversion.
@@reyzapata9375 I think the confusion I am having is the red and brown wires that attach to the starter solenoid are not part of the upgrade when installing a one-wire alternator (which is what I am doing in this video). If you're asking a separate question about what wires need to attach to the solenoid and you're not doing this alternator upgrade, then I would say leave those wires attached. The red wire goes to the factory Ammeter gauge (which probably doesn't work anyway, they always fail), from the solenoid through the wiring harness that attaches to the firewall. The brown wire goes from the solenoid to the positive side of the Coil, and it also goes through the firewall and connects to your key ignition switch. 🙂
Ok thank you for your advice it helps.!.
I had a one wire and the ignition light doesn’t go out and it doesn’t charge 😊until you rev up to 2000rpm
Hmmm, not sure if it's a problem with that one-wire, or a problem with you wiring, but I have not had any issues. :)
What fan are you using? Would you buy it again?
It's the stock fan for a 1999 Ford Contour. Yes, I'd buy it again. I have a video on my channel about the install. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel how tall is it? I only have 2.6 inches of clearance in my 65 Ranchero.
Where did you purchase the battery disconnect?
eBay, it's a 200A circuit breaker. I paid about $10 for it. :)
What size spacer is on the alternator?
1-5/8" spacer.
One ground is for the ds headlight.
Then it's not a one-wire? :)
Thanx
No, thank you!! :)
So it’s really a one wire?
Yes, there's only one wire coming out the back. :)
I ran mine right to the POS battery
That's fine, mine is essentially the same thing since the wire from the battery and the wire from the Alt are connected at the same terminal on the Starter Solenoid. :)
too tight... you're gonna break a pulley
Yep, figured that out the hard way. :)
For anyone considering a "1-wire" alternator, do your research first. It's not really an "upgrade". It's a compromise. Sorry, but they are limited because of the elimination of the other two wires that they really do need in order to work reliably and efficiently.
The one-wire alternator is internally regulated, so it does not need the external voltage regulator that was installed from the factory. Also, I think you and I might be defining an 'upgrade' differently.
whoo hooo... 5.0 likes
Haha, thanks!
What type of battery breaker was that ? Andy thanks
It was a generic, 200A unit I purchased off eBay. :)
OK thanks