One Wire Pros And Cons
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 มี.ค. 2021
- 1 Wire Pros And Cons
Episode 498
Autorestomod
We look at 1 wire alternators vs. traditional alternators. We cover the pros and cons of three wire externally regulated alternator. We cover the pros and cons of the 3 wire internally regulated alternator. And tell you which is best between the three.
jford@autorestomod.com
www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I used to watch my dad working on cars at his service station. He told me to leave as l made him nervous. I learned to change brake shoes by sneaking around to watch him. Dad was WWII veteran. The only thing I can think is that being watched contributed to his nervousness. He went ashore on 6 June 1944 storming Omaha Beach.
His service is greatly appreciated. After hitting that beach, anything could make a man nervous. I have a special place in my heart for those that landed on European soil that day.
Weird. If anything being in the war sounds like a excuse to me. Any father should feel lucky to have their kids want to watch them work and learn from them.
Love putting the oem style on things. You are teaching Logan how to fall in love with the hobby and throw tools all at the same time.
Oh yeah.
I used a 92 Aerostar 95amp alternator for my 67 Mustang ( direct bolt in) and converted it to a one wire setup, so simple to do even I did it. Get the harness for the alternator, "A" goes to power out on the alternator, "S" is for stator and it plugs into itself, "I" is for 12v power "key on wire". Then run a 6ga wire to the solenoid and connect it to the battery side post. Done. Ive had it for about 3 years now with no external regulator.
Keep up the videos, enjoy them and learn from them as well.
Awesome!
I'm a fan of old school, thanks for the post...
You are welcome
The first repair I ever had to do on my stang was to replace the alternator while my dad and I were driving it back from New York after we bought it back from the family my dad had sold it to 10 years prior. We did this in the hotel parking lot. That was where I learned to carry a toolbox and spare parts in the trunk. Since I rewired my stang with an American Autowire Kit, I had to upgrade to a one wire alternator. It was a pretty easy conversion. Actually used one of your old videos to help guide my through it.
Very cool.
I remember those days of carrying my little red craftsman toolbox in the trunk! :)
I like you guys because you make normal mistakes and admit them.
Sooooo. many. mistakes.
I put a Delco-Tron alternator on my 1966 Mustang. Only had to drill one of the mounting holes out to 1 or 2 sizes bigger to use the original bolt. Used one of the small wires on the alternator for a indicator light on the dash jumped the other small one to the big wire on alternator. Keep up the good videos.
Awesome!
Hi from Australia. Guy on the left knows a lot and very polite.
What about the guy on the right? Lol
I'm a Ford man! I truly believe your post as I've followed you from day one and you haven't let me down yet.
#FORDMAN
I appreciate that!
You guys are wicked smart. The accent will fool ya, but these guys know their stuff and that makes these videos fun to watch.
Thanks Paul!
My one wire mounting stud hit the cylinder heads when I installed on my 66 mustang. I took it off, took out the 4 screws holding the front and back together and rotated the back 90 degrees and replaced all the screws. Re-installed and worked perfect. Just be careful to not pull apart the two pieces, only rotate or else the springs inside will displace the magnets.
Good idea.
I'm so old I can remember my instructor showing us how to calibrate an external regulator...
"Properly Aged and Refined"...
There is something to be said about easy part look ups at your local parts store. My front brakes are off a car from the 70s, my rear drums are off a van from the 80s, and my engine was never an option for my car - it's fun times. 🍻🇺🇸
That blank look from the counter help at the parts store....
I gotta pretend.PRETEND it's a carb spacer from a Pinto,PRETEND it's t5 from a 90 Mustang,PRETEND the disc pads are on a Granada.Even if it looks like a 62 Ranchero.
I'm running a gm 3 wire on all my old cars an trucks an even tractors cause u can find them an any auto parts store on the shelf an so simple to wire an I'm using the indicator lights on the dash too or I wire in a indicator light I love all brands but I do prefer Fords but I love when someone sees a gm 10 or 12si on my ford or even my B model mack or my international tractor thanks for the video great job love the channel
You are welcome!
I installed a high amp Ford 3g alternator on my 74 Cougar. It's a stock alternator from a 99 Taurus so it's available everywhere. Swap the pulley, delete the mechanical regulator and wiring and off you go. Bolts right in and and the connector is clocked properly for the 2v Cleveland engine.
That sounds like a great idea. Might be doing that with my '72.
You hit on a point that’s important to me; the factory brackets for alternators, power steering and AC are rugged, bulletproof and I like the look better than aftermarket stuff.
Me too.
I had a '60s Ford as my first car and I probably went through about half a dozen of those voltage regulators. I only had that thing for 3 years too, so it was a constant problem for me. I would've killed for one of these aftermarket 1-wire setups.
The issue with the one wire alternators is they take a higher RPM for the exciter to kick in and their low RPM amp output is lower than an alternator with an external exciter wire.
I'm not a fan of the externally regulated alternators but I did like the mechanical ones as many of them you could adjust the charging voltage on. For race use bumping that voltage up will improve the spark energy from the ignition coil. More volts in more volts out as it's basically a form of transformer.
For the GM SI alternators it's an easy change with a regulator swap. You can also rewire the field coil on some alternators for higher output as well but new ones are cheap and better now. But the better choice is to go with the later CS series as they bolt in and are a huge upgrade over the old SI models.
Not really true anymore on the one wire. We have one on the F100 and it works a treat!
Quick question does the Ranchero have an ALT gauge like the 66 Mustang? If so what are you doing with it when you do the one wire conversion? I am converting my 66 Mustang over to one wire when I put it back together and I'm looking for options.
Rocketman Cougar Parts sells a gauge to convert the usually nonproductive amp gauge to a volt gauge. It bolts right in to the dash panel and look s like a factory gauge.
I binged watched Iron Resurrection because of that blonde. I'm a simple man.
I liked the two first season antics, it was a show where the guys act like we do when we play with cars. She is cute, too!
If I could afford to have a professional build, it would be them
I'm a Ford guy so I went with the Ford 3g .One wire keyed power. One wire voltage sensing . And still has the stator wire for choke. And it bolted in place of the 1g alternator.
Cool!
Working on a 62 Galaxie base model, 292 Y block, 3 spd manual. Installed the one wire alternator and when I first completed didn't seem to have a problem except it's not charging the battery. I did pull out the original voltage regulator, in my simple way of thinking the one wire from the alternator I spliced in where the two wires went into the A lug on external regulator, figuring the power from alternator comes in there and then works its way over to the Bat terminal which goes back to charge the battery. Since I no longer have that I ran a second wire from the alternator to the battery, well the battery now charges, but my GEN light is on all the time, even when the keys are not in the ignition. Need some help or clarification on where the alternator wire goes and how I keep my battery charged and my GEN light functional. Appreciate any help you might have.
Contact me at my email address: jford@autorestomod.com
I’m putting a v8 in my 63 falcon and wonder if I can turn the battery like a mustang to make it fit or do I need to move to the trunk.
How can you not like a Big window Cuda LOL
It just doesn't have that same flair that the '67 and '68 models have. If Plymouth had introduced the 67 styled Barracuda before the Mustang came out...we might be calling them "fish cars". rather than "pony cars".
When we rewired our 68 Mustang front end, we put a one wire 125 amp. Only disadvantage for me the original amp gauge will not work with one wire, put volt gauge under dash. This car is the red Mustang you saw at the last Ocala Ford roundup, still runs great no problems, put about 7 thousand miles a year on the clock.
Mine never worked. I installed a voltage gauge in the amp gauge opening. Search M6768V - Volt Meter for 1967-1968 Ford Mustangs. I used a 3G from a Taurus 160 amp. Make sure you upgraded the ground from engine to frame.
Rocketman Cougar Parts has a replacement in dash volt gauge that will get rind of that under dash gauge.
Also, if you are converting from points to a duraspark system, CHANGE YOUR MECHANICAL REG TO A SOLID STATE! Otherwise it will blow your modules... I found out the hard way a COUPLE times.
Incredible elbows!
Yes. Bursitis is not fun. One out of five stars, would not recommend.
Have you guys had better luck with a particular brand of one wire alternator over others? I have a tough stuff one wire alternator on my 53 F100 that seems to work well, but it’s making some mechanical noise. It still charges though. And I read somewhere that they charge better at idle than the power master unit to do.
I have a Tuff Stuff on the F100 and it seems to do fine. I honestly don't have enough differential experience to speak to that.
I'm a true believer in that statement " If you can't work on your car, you shouldn't own it"
Yes. I can respect those that just own them and pay the guy too though. They usually out weigh me in money...
I installed a GM 10 si on my 65 Mustang about 25 years ago still driving the car today
Awesome!
A friends VW Sirocco at a certain position on his radio you could hear the alternator noise. We called it audio tach and would play it loudly some times.
Still think a tone at red line would have been a nice feature...
here is my question. I have a 289 1965 Mustang, analog MSD 6AL with Duraspark, and put a Spal 40 amp electric fan with relay. What amp alternator would your recommend and can one use the stco external voltage regulator, or would one have to go to a diffrent one to handle the electric fan? And also on this ifone goes to a one wire, can one after disconnecting the external voltage regulator still wire the Ford system for the Alternator warning light to work?
You need to add up the amp load to see what you need and oversize by 20%. Yes you can get the light to work. Check with the manufacturer on how
So I am still not real clear that once I mount my 1-wire Alt and run my 4 gauge charging wire from the Alt + post to the +Pos terminal can I just cut out the voltage reg and all the wiring to it or from it?
On most applications yes. BUT consult your wiring diagram for wires that go from the voltage regulator to the interior.
Hey, have yall checked to see if there is a decked truck bed that might fit your ranchero so that you could still store stuff in the bed and it can double as a tonneau cover as well but still be able to strap stuff down... food for thought
That is coming there is a company that makes a bed cover for the Ranchero. We also plan to make the rear plate hinged and sealed so he can store tools in the smugglers well.
Funny, talking about availability of a 1-wire, I walked into my local NAPA and they were like sure, we've got 17 in the back lol
One wire changed everything for me.
Everything?
@@AutoRestoMod undrivable otherwise so I'd say.
I still have original charging systems on both my Fairlanes. One has orig reg & also have it's orig alt(PO replaced it just because). While I still have a few brain cells functional, it's my '72 Comet I should I should make a list for. Has '68/'69 Torino disc brakes, '77 Maverick steering link(uses Granada idler), & '80s 2G alt. Still has functional alt light. Also Painless aux harness that supplies headlights, elec fan, choke heater etc. Oh yeah, has a '80s E-coil & TFI ign module triggered by original points dist.
At the parts store: What year, make and model? You: Uhhhh.
Question
My 70 f100 4.9
And 73 f350 360
Both run regulators
Installing a 1 wire do I just unplug from regulator and run power from battery to alternator
We did a video for you: th-cam.com/video/OoQeoKnPYcY/w-d-xo.html
I ripped out all the wiring in my '71 Camaro as, like most old harnesses, it had been hacked up over the years. I used the American Autowire kit and it was just easier and cleaner to do the one wire setup. I get why you did it differently for your car, though. Since I did the wiring I know what the story is with my car and what parts are in it. With your Ranchero now he doesn't have to try to explain aftermarket wiring to the kid behind the counter who only knows what the computer is telling him.
We did the one wire on the F100 too. It is, as you say, easier with the American Autowire.
i need to install an alternator on my 1979 yamaha sx650 twin motorcycle.....no lights, just wired to run the points style engine..... i have looked everywhere on the net cannot find a diagram...... i would like to use a 35 amp 12v alternator, with 2 automotive coils.......... any idea what other electric parts i will need..... plus doesen`t the alternator have a regulator built in ?
First, check this: www.bikermetric.com/techtips-2-the-xs650-charging-system/
Here are some wiring diagrams: www.xs650.com/threads/some-wiring-diagrams.61/
You might consider checking deeper into that 650SX forum for other stuff.
Fun Fact, my NAPA store actually stocks single wire Chevy alternators. Part number is something like 213-4010S
Some do, but without that part number...you are sunk.
One wire mechman has been the best alternator I ve had in over 40 years.
I'll look into them.
So I’m swapping my gen to a alternator on a 62 mercury meteor do I need to run a voltage regulator?
If you are running a One Wire, no, if you are running a stock ford alternator for 1965-the early 80s, yes.
1 wire ftw!
my question is....what would be better for just an upgrade
all i want to add brighter headlights and a custom autosound radio!
on my Starliner ...of course!
or a FFGS 500
Go with the one we used. It is a 70 amp.
I like to drive and K.I.S.S. is my go to.
Yup!
should just use the 3g, such a simple swap, and available at every parts store
Good plan!
Our 65’ Mustang rides on 1 wire.
So does our F100.
Are you guys in SC? We live in Greenville. I am going to get my '65 Falcon going and drive it to Myrtle Beach. My other goal is to move to Horry County. Thank you for your videos.
We are in Aiken, SC. If you are ever in the area, call and we'll get together.
@@AutoRestoMod Thank you. I will call and drive my '65 Futura convertible there. I enjoy your videos. Cameron is correct. If one can't work on their car, they shouldn't have it.
My '65 Falcon should have an alternator. Am l correct?
Depends. Early '65s might still be a generator. If it looks like the ones on the show, you have an alternator.
@@AutoRestoMod Thank you. I am not sure of the time the car was manufactured.
ford 1G alternator wiring. why..
big stud on the back marked BAT goes to the starter relay battery stud as positive alternator output. usually there is a splice in the harness that also sends this off thru the firewall and into the car to the ignition switch and a few fuses..
Field marked FLD on the alternator.. F on the regulator.. this is the voltage regulator output to one alternator brush. the other brush is grounded in 1G alternators when the regulator connects this circuit to positive in the regulator. there is a magnetic field created in the spinning rotor winding.. this induces voltage in the secondary windings , more on that below. if the regulator hooked only positive voltage to that FLD stud it would create a max charge issue and can if the battery would allow it create output voltage over 100 volts DC.. so the voltage regulator pulses Positive and Negative to the FLD .. the positive pulse increases the magnetic field. the negative decreases the magnetic field so the regulator can control the charging output voltage really well..
Stator.. Marks STA on the alternator.. S on the regulator.. the 1G alternator (7078 part number usually) has 3 sets of overlapping field windings. one end of each of these 3 field windings is attached to the STA stud (Stator) it when you measure it actually has AC voltage on it.. but only when the alternator is actually charging. there is no voltage there when the alternator is not spinning. no spinning magnetic field from the rotor creating electrons in the field windings.. the voltage regulator uses this signal to control the speed of the field winding pulses of positive and negative.. so changes in alternator speed keep the alternator putting out controlled current.. no surging like what happened with some generators.. this ac voltage from the stator when measured with a multimeter set to AC volts should be exactly half of the alternator output voltage in DC. so if you have 14.1 volts DC at the battery.. you should have a 7 volts at the Stator terminal on the back of the alternator or at the S terminal on the regulator. if you don't then you probably have blown diodes.. Hint. ford used the Stator voltage to hook to the electric choke coil.. worked perfect to drive the electric choke. without effecting the charging output in any way..
Armature Marked A on the Voltage regulator.. this is either constant battery power usually from the starter relay.. on cars with an AMP meter. this is Switched ignition power.. cars with an AMP meter will NOT have a wire on the I terminal of the voltage regulator..
Indicator Marked I on the regulator.. this goes to the alternator/battery bulb in the dashboard. the other side of the bulb is powered by the ignition switch.. so when you turn on the key.. one side of the bulb gets powered. the I terminal of the voltage regulator is lower in voltage that the ignition switch so electrons flow thru the bulb filament heating it up..
when the alternator starts charging. the voltage on the I terminal comes up to be the same as the charging voltage.. so the alternator /battery lamp now has 13 or 14 volts on Each side of it.. no electrons rushing thru it to heat the filament and it goes dark..
most early alternators. have an additional wire to one of the thru case studs. that is a ground wire that goes to the case of the voltage regulator so it gets the proper Negative /ground side connection so it can control the voltage output even better..
Stator windings.. these are the external windings that don't move in an alternator. each of the 3 wires is hooked to a pair of diodes.. one is a positive diode , that is connected to the output stud of the alternator.. the other is connected to the alternator case.. when the AC voltage created in the stator windings goes above Zero. the that voltage goes thru the positive diode to the output stud and the battery positive eventually. when the ac voltage in the stator is below zero. the voltage goes thru the negative diode and to the alternator case.. where it takes the long way to the negative battery.. thru the case.. the alternator bracket. the head or block. the negative battery cable. to finally get to the negative battery post..
now that you know this.. invest in any kind of cheap multimeter to test your charging system..
NEVER EVER pull a battery cable off with the engine running.. if the alternator is charging. the loss of connection to the battery will cause the electrons to built up for that fraction of a second before the regulator can dampen the spinning magnetic field of the rotor coil.. the voltage can go for an instant above 100 volts and blow the diodes out.. diodes are usually rated in 7078 alternators at 25 amps at 100volts PIV. ( peak inverse volts.. ) if you exceed the 100 volts.. which is easy to do if you disconnect the battery or the alternator output wire with the engine running. you will either cause the diodes to open up or dead short..
if you hook up a jump starter backwards. sending positive voltage to the wrong diodes. they will try to push their voltage thru and exceed the amp rating of the diodes .. usually shorting them out and blowing the fusible link up near the starter relay.. if your starter relay fusible link is burned.. chances are the alternator is toast..
i could go on but i will probably put you to sleep.. feel free to copy this text and email it to your self to read several times. this is not a how to test the alternator.. this is a HOW the alternator works.. the internally regulated with the voltage regulators on the back work the same way.. heck you can take a 3G or 4G and wire it up to the A wire to the starter relay .. and the I wire to the dash battery indicator. and with the output wire hooked up. and the stator jumper wire hooked up.. jumps on the new 3g or 4G from the S terminal on the regulator plug to a small plug on the side of the alternator and it will work perfectly when you start the engine..
only difference between alternators brands/designs.. is what is the Field control doing. fords have a grounded second brush .. chryslers have 12 volt power to the second brush and make and brake ground to the other brush. makes or breaks ground but also pulses positive to control the field size..
i hope this helps with everybody learning more about automotive electrical. you might get a charge out of it..
i used to moderate forums the same magazine company fred worked at..
Always good information my friend!
Holy good God, you just wrote WAR & Peace..
@@Paulie1232 war and peace was actually trying to unsnarl the wiring on this after who knows how many wack a mole wiring attempts.. i.imgur.com/7DhICTA.jpg i was do deep into reverse engineering the what, when, why and how it should work even with a 9 foot long wiring diagram.. i was having nightmares about working on the wiring. actually had a nightmare about the wiring and in that nightmare i figured out the issue.. when i stared the engine ran and the left front park light and side marker worked.. when it left.. everything worked like it should.. i even redesigned the power distribution and reduced voltage drops significantly so the Evaporator and heater fans ran significantly better keeping the driver cool at stop signs. or warm.. and i don't even specialize in electrical repairs. but i have to understand how it all works to be a better mechanic..
I put a 1wire Alton in my 84pick up an I can't get it to charge what did I do wrong
Make sure your grounds are hooked up. Check the connection to the battery with a volt meter.
One wire alts I always think of those Gm (pardon my cussin) alternators that look like R2D2 laying on his side. I'll stick with my FORD stuff its been there since 65 so I will wait for it to give me grief.
I hear ya!
I put a 1wire alternator on my 67f100. After spending two months trying to figure out why my alternator wouldn't charge the battery only maintain enough to keep the truck running, I got sick of it. Tried a new alternator, battery, rebuilt all the grounds, voltage regulator, rebuilt the wiring and nothing fixed it for more than a day. It was weird and frustrating.
That is odd.
I can't help but wonder how many of those 'people' asking about the one wire alternator are vendors/manufacturers just trying to get one of their products featured on the channel.
Zero.
That’s hilarious I drive my 1968 mustang every Monday to the airport and every Friday back home it’s 80 miles each way and I have a spare alternator in the car and spare belts and I’ve had to change them on the side of the road
LOL, I can picture a trailer with a tiny guy and all the parts being towed behind my Falcon. ME: I need a distributor. GUY: air conditioned? ME: 🙄
Ford 3G beats most . 94-95 Mustang 302 for a parts store app .
Good point.
the test for the charging system. i.imgur.com/WMDprhm.jpg prove the wiring is moving electrons without excessive resistance. chrysler cars and trucks of the 60s and 70s.. had a crazy long distance from the alternator output to the battery..
One wire is probably your worst choice. They generally don't charge until you hit high enough rom. Reason we changed to alternators was to charge at idle. If you can't read a wiring diagram and hook up three wires you need to get a job making crabbie patties with Patrick.
Well well what you say makes sense, it's not true. Modern one wire alternators are designed to work near off idle meaning one blip of the throttle and it starts working. So I guess you'll join me in making crabby patties with Patrick.
Mike apparently hates that phrase and yea one wire is damn easy
LOL
If you do an American Autowire conversion. It only accepts a one wire alternator
They do have kits for the Ford alts too. But it is an additional charge.
With experience I found it you change the regulator you must change the alternator at the same time or you will have a short life of either one
Sometimes that is true.
Dc power and mechman are the brand i know
Cool!
i was told that one wire has problems at idle not charging.
Not so much anymore.
Can you help me out
I am so disappointed. Jeff, years ago I emailed you when you quit the magazine gig and I dropped the subscription because I missed your column. You were kind enough to email me back a few times and all this time I thought you were great but after you said that you didn’t like the first gen barracuda, I just don’t know. Is this just an early April fools day joke? In all seriousness, I am having a blast watching the videos.
LOL I hope I can regain your trust. That car is just...unfortunate looking in my eyes. I can't help not being "woke" on the whole Barracuda thing. I've said this before; the Barracuda was released before the Mustang. Had it looked like the '67...we'd be calling the pony car a fish car or some such today.
@@AutoRestoMod It’s ok for you to say that it’s an ugly car. I guess that deep down I don’t mind if you are wrong. 😁
The one wires don’t charge at low RPM
Not true. We have one in our F100 and it charges at idle...
Yes they do. Mine is putting out 14.5v at idle.
One wire for Fords is nothing but a GM/Ford hybrid unit and don't fit for shit on FE engines. The stock 1G fit tight as it is... As far as I know a true 1G NOT available as a 1 wire. Advertised 1G 1-wires are GM/Ford hybrids, Ford front case, GM rear case....makes them slightly longer. Probably not noticable on any Ford engine but an FE.
The 3G much smaller and is the only way to go on those.
I have a one wire on the 390 in the F100. Check National Parts Depot, they carry them.
@@AutoRestoMod interesting as I bought two different Ford 1-wire alternators and both were rear GM cased ford alternators. Which isn't a big deal except it makes them too long and they hit the front of the block. Will check that out. Thanks.
Go to any car show, they are loaded with Fords and GM’s. Mopars are getting as scarce as hens teeth.
Returns a bad alternator so the next buyer has problems and must return it. Shows lack of character, shameful.
In all fairness to us we told them it did not work.
jion?
Mistakes were made.
One wire alternator-- I’ve read “you must add a fuse between alt and batter” and “never add a fuse between alt and battery”!
Which is it!!!???
It depends on who you talk to. My cohost doesn't like them. And other people do. You'd need to know what your mmax load could be and set the fuseable link or the fuse up to be just over that.
1 wire alternators are for old farm tractors and guys too ignorant to wire up a 3 wire alternator.
Okie dokie
Hay get back to work on the galaxy
RIGHT?! That is coming soon. The place where it is at has been shutdown since Christmas. He is back up and running now.
When I was 15 years old I bought for my first car was a 63 ford gallaxy 500 4 door sedan. I'll never forget that car. It was $200 bucks of my own money.
@@richardhernandez4244 WOW, you must be as old as dirt, lol
@@Paulie1232 almost
@@richardhernandez4244 me too....
Bla bla bla thumb down
Well, that's just like, your opinion, man.
Can't you ever get to the point, you waist so much time on BS.
Agreed. You should watch a different show.
@@AutoRestoMod You can count on that.