Thank You! After 2 hours of watching tutorials, yours is the ONLY one which explains the issue correctly and easily. Other videos simply show a mass of wires with the presumption that the viewer understands where all that spaghetti goes and what it does. Again, thanks!
That's the technique I use as well, except I like using a voltmeter instead of an ammeter. With a voltmeter when you turn on the key, you instantly see the static voltage of the battery and also instantly see the initiation of the alternator output with the increase of voltage simultaneously with the LED shutting off. The ammeter is also a great way to see the output, but if your battery is fully charged and requires very little alternator output to recharge, the ammeter movement could only be a blip and a bit hard to discern. Of course that's in reference to a tractor with little or no external electrical load beyond the starting or ignition load. Good concise and informative video. Don't listen to the naysayers, we know this works.
Thank you! I just happened to get a new Delco Remi alternator for my 1982 Allis Chalmers forklift and was trying to figure out how to wire it and there you were on TH-cam with the perfect video! I love it when a plan comes together! Thanks again!
Excellent advice regarding the alternator "chassis-to-engine-block" negative cable. This eliminates the negative current from trying to use the alternator mounting for continuity. Wtih the distance to/from the ammeter and then to the battery, I would use at least an 8 gauge circuit. If using a volt meter in lieu of an Ammeter, the charge circuit will be shorter, possibly allowing for a smaller gauge. Although in the Marine world, yellow is now used for Negative, for years black has been synomonous with Negative. I would suggest using a colored (other than yellow) wire for any Positive conductors. If I may elaborate some re; 3.54 into the video. With the use of an Ammeter, that circuit runs first to the ammeter..... then to the battery. If I may elaborate again re; 4:05 into the video, the Self Exciting 10si (what some call the "one wire" 10si) does indeed require a bump in RPM in order to become excited. However, once excited, it will remain excited until engine shut-down. FYI..... technically speaking, there is no "ground" in a 12 vdc system. Positive and Negative only.
You are the BEST!!! I have been waiting for 5 YEARS for this information and you made it clear and concise. I have a Fordson Power Major. One of the BEST DIY videos on TH-cam! Cant wait to get to my machine.
Great job on this video! I have a Duce and half made into a log prehauler with a 350 engine, been having an issue with it not charging for quite some time, did all sorts of rewiring and asking know it alls and watching ‘way to long ‘ videos, nothing worked. Watched your video, did exactly as you said - it all works perfectly- thank you !
Great to hear! I was having trouble with my tractor, every time I went to start it the battery was dead. Turns out the alt wasn’t charging! Thank you so much for watching. :)
@@iamdjnam I'm trying rewire a Howard Price 727 mower. The panel was taken apart, the wiring doesn't match the color code to the original manufacturer and I am fit to be tied to properly install wiring between fuel gauge, engine temperature gauge and hour meter. The wiring shows an exciter wire to the valve for fuel that must be in the open position to allow fuel flow. What a pain in the neck! Thanks for posting your video...it might help to get this unit back up and running. I need it for making compressed earth block for an off grid home. Blessings!
I put a VW Vanagon Alternator (1986-1991) 90amp on my Ford 7500 Backhoe and thanks to you I figured out to excite it I put Ignition voltage to the B+ terminal Happy Day! Thanks
Great straight forward explanation of how/why to run the wiring on a diesel machine. thanks! I'm converting my 1965 International Harvester tractor from generator to alternator. I've got the 10SI alternator ordered and on the way. Now to buy some 10 AWG wire, a light and an ampmeter.
After watching some other vids about installing an alternator on a low rpm engine (garden tractor), I finally figured out why my "one wire" alternator wasn't putting out anything. Thanks.
Absolutely GREAT!! I love that old Allis! You are spot on about connecting the terminal one wire to the ACC post on the ignition sw. Not many people know that! Nice work my man...
@@iamdjnam Yep - I have a 1957 Farmall 350 that the generator died on several years ago. Got tired of charging the battery every whip-stitch so I put on a 1 wire. An older gentleman down the road said use the ignition ACC post to connect an exciter wire. That way when you turn off the key all the juice is dead and it won't keep running on ya'. The man knew his stuff!! LOL! . Not many guys left that know these old machines in and out! Lots of info out there but your advice is right on target - Nice Job!!
Tip when adding this on heavy eqipment the Excited wire should go to a 2 terminal oil presser switch you install. So it not so hard on starting am battery in cold weather. This way the alternator not trying to charge putting load on starter an battery until oil presser is up. Machines from factory are wire like this. Can't tell you how many guys think the alternator bad when it's a failed oil presser switch.. make so much easier starting. With out the load of the alternator.
That is actually a three wire alternator. A one wire alternator only has one wire from Batt on alternator to positive on the battery. A one wire alternator does not require the light because they are self exciting and do not require the light to create a load excitement. It is actually better that you are using a three wire alternator because the typical true one wire alternator contains junk diodes that go bad. When the diodes in a one wire alternator fail, the battery will bleed down through the alternator and kill your battery. The three wire alternators are much more durable due to tried and true diodes and they are 30% cheaper. So actually what you have done is shown a method for wiring a 3-wire alternator which is better than a true one wire alternator.
International trucks from the 70s had an alternator like this and they had no light for the alternator. They just had 1 wire coming from the accessory of the key switch to terminal #1 and a jumper going from terminal #1 to terminal #2. This is how I wire all my tractors. They only time there is a problem is if the tractor doesnt have an accessory terminal on the key switch so you have to wire the exciter wire to the ignition terminal on the key switch and sometimes they want to back feed and the engine wont shut off when you turn off the key. This is easily fixed by wiring in a diode between the key switch and the terminal #1. This diode only allows the power to flow in one direction and prevents back feeding.
Thank very much for your information on how to wire a one wire alternater up I have a ih b275 which iv had problem's makeing it charger you have helped me alot thanks once again
Great video. Yes there aren't many video's on wiring tractors. I'm replacing a wiring harness on a 5040 Allis Chalmers that has an old harness that has chopped up, spliced wires and missing wires. I got a new harness with no labels on the wires so I'm trying to figure out where they all go. My new harness has two wires with the alternator main wire. The Tractor has a Delco Remy alternator just like the one in this video. The dash has a volt meter gauge with a scale from 10 to 17 and says battery voltage.
@@iamdjnam yes I have both service and operator manuals. The operator manual has the wiring dirgram to help trace the wires. Your video was very helpful. Thanks
i have a tractor with the same 10si on it. and the battery was getting low. now i know why. there were no wires onto the leads. have to rewire and thank you very much.
I put 1 wire alternatorsGM110 amps straight from-the one post to the positive post on the battery, I have never ever had any problems,with battery or alternator, no need for anything in the wire ,just run a wire to the post +, on p.s. you will need a bigger pulley on tractor’s,they will self excite on it own,
Two questions. 1. What is the downside to simply going from the battery to the alternator stud? 2. I've read Ammeters can be fire hazards. Why might this be? How do we prevent?
I have a gas Massey 165 I’m wanting to hook a one wire alternator up to. Is the process the same? When I took off the old alternator, there’s a wire running from 2 to the dash and no jumper to the positive alternator output from the terminals which is opposite of how you did it. Not sure which way is correct.
The starter has a main power from battery terminal. It also has an s and r terminal. S wire goes to the neutral switch and then to the ignition switch. Where does the wire from the r terminal on the starter solenoid go to
Did as you but start the tractor & alternated does not kick in still have to rave for it to kick in number 1 to the light in dash turn switch on light comes on number 2 to starter positive.I have a volt meter.
why would run the wire coming off the ampmeter to the starter post? do you mean the solenoid? what about to the battery, I guess it would go to the positive terminal?
By far the best video out there. I have a Massey 50 industrial loader with a push button start and mechanical stop, the existing generator failed years ago and I plan to convert using your design but with a toggle on off switch in place of a key start seeing that this system is working. Do you see any problems?
Great video, but I would have liked to seen a wiring diagram either on a piece of paper or on white board and then leave camera on diagram for like 10 sec or so or link wiring diagram in the description or both. Thanks
Im going to rewire my 1466 international harvestors alternator been having trouble with the battery staying charged long enough to run the knife on the net wrap part of the baler. Has to have 13.1 v or it throws an error code and wont cut just wastes a bunch of twine. Thought the alternator was hooked up properly but when my dad was alive i recall him saying if u didnt rev it over 1500 rpm the alternator wouldnt charge at an idle. So that was simply cause he didnt run another wire to the ignition so it would excite as the key turned on instead of just when it was above idle? Also wanted to ask if it would be better to take the wire from the numer 2 post that u connected right back to the alternator would it be better to connect it to the battery or absolutely connect it to the positve alternator cable? I just want to be sure is all before i screw something up and burn my grandfathers tractor up. Is the positive starter post where i should connect at to run a block to attach lights to and such? I dont have radio in there just some lights i normally hooked to the battery to turn on.
Yeah so to make it charge immediately you need that second line coming from ACC. As far as the lights and stuff I would wire it directly to the battery so the starter terminal doesn’t get warm.
@@iamdjnam cool i really appriciate that. I need to place some switches in it so i can flip a switch when it gets dark instead of stopping what im doing to get out and connect them to the bolt on the battery post. I bought a couple bar lights and some square led sets cause that tractor is very lacking in the light department. Really appricate u answering back even though the video was a couple years old. Sure appriciate it ive watched it like 6 times just to lock it into my brain prob watch it a couple more times before i start removing shit. If u are from Sw Pa or close by and want some wiring work let me know got all kinds of old tractors. Mostly olivers but a couple internationals and massey Ferguson tractors we havent used for awhile.
Use the gauge of wire shown in the video. A lower gauge will handle current and amperage better. My alternator is a 30amp and works perfectly with said gauge.
Im kinda lost do you put a wire from the positive on battery to the alternator? To send the charge to the battery. And with the ignition switch how does it go to the starter? I gotta run all new on a chipper i just bought. Please help lol
Lmao you’re good. You put a wire from the battery to the terminal on the back of the alternator. Then u put a wire from the ACC on your ignition to that little terminal that says 1 (or 2 idk I mention it in the video)
I honestly have no idea. I don’t want to lead you in the wrong direction. Best thing to do is find a schematic for that alternator that tells you what each terminal is for. I know on some alternators they allow you to hook up a tachometer
I guess you have a point. I think the “one wire” saying comes from the fact that you can run a wire straight to the battery. But remember, engines that rev low don’t trigger the alternator to start charging. That’s why on my diesel I had to run it this way.
@@iamdjnam I'm not sure about the internals in them, but I found a one wire alt for my Ford 621 gas, that starts charging at 500 rpm. I was hoping to see how to hook it up properly. Any input on that? Thanks
@@vernboulet1015 As far as that goes, hook your wire from the back up to the battery, and terminal 2 to the post on the back of the alt. Take a multimeter make sure you're getting 14v with it running.
@@iamdjnam My problem is, there is no terminal 2. There is a black plastic cap/thing where I believe the 2 would be. All I have access to is the alt. output lug. Should I run the wire from the alt. through a volt meter or amp gauge and then to the battery? So I can see if the alt. stops charging before I'm dead somewhere? Or straight to the bat.? (thanks for your input)
With reman alternators no one knows what voltage regulator is installed unless you ask for a 1 wire. This is a marine regulator because in a boat, they don’t want the alternator on until the engine is at a higher RPM to avoid fumes causing a fire. On a car, truck the run B+ from key on to dash, the peanut bulb limits current but turns on the regulator after cranking. You don’t want the alternator pulling on the starter when cranking. The bulb is a current limiter for the regulator. This circuit has 12Vdc to turn lamp on and the field produces 12Vdc when working. With 12Vdc on both sides of the bulb there is no potential for current to flow so the bulb goes off. If the diode trio or main diodes start to leak voltage backward due to heat, age or defect, the light will glow from dim to bright telling the owner something is wrong with the charging. The most common one wire regulator copy you Delco Marine, that is why you have to rev up to make work. Any other regulator starts working as soon as started because the diode trio supplies the regulator with voltage to supply ground to the rotor at 400HZ as it is below AM band radio dials to eliminate radio noise. The stator used is “Y” connect and that center is hot when working, that is field. The marine regulator other wire is system voltage sense to adjust charge rate in volts. Inside there is a ceramic resistor that changes with air temp. Higher voltage when cold and lower voltage when hotter. That is the difference for time in turn-on can range from 1.5 sec. to 4 seconds. This spec is used when picking a voltage regulator. ASE Master since 1978, retired.
@@iamdjnam thank you but the key doesn't stay in the start position. Its a diesel and to shut it off, I pull the shut off knob. I planned on wiring a light in as you did so hopefully it will do the same. Thanks for the response
Will this work? (this is how my Massey wiring diagram shows it): The wire from the LED goes to a post on the oil pressure switch (instead of an accessory terminal of the switch). And also, the F (#2) terminal on the alternator is wired to the negative side of the amp guage, which is then wired to the Bat terminal of the solenoid. So it has 12V all the time to the F, but only has power to R when there's oil pressure? The ignition switch only has one wire in and one wire out (to the S solenoid terminal)-its just "off" or "start".
From my understanding, if you incorrectly wire the #1 terminal, the engine will stay running despite the key being turned off. On my AC, the previous owner cut all sorts of wires and capped a bunch of things. Being a yard machine, it doesn’t run everyday so there needs to be a way to excite the alt. My ign switch has an ACC terminal, which is what I use to excite. Then the charge feed from the alt goes to the positive of the ammeter. You can just wire your #2 to the back terminal like I have.
Thank all mighty jeebles for making this short and not a f'ing hour long... bless you, sir
You are very welcome my friend
Thank You! After 2 hours of watching tutorials, yours is the ONLY one which explains the issue correctly and easily. Other videos simply show a mass of wires with the presumption that the viewer understands where all that spaghetti goes and what it does. Again, thanks!
That's the technique I use as well, except I like using a voltmeter instead of an ammeter. With a voltmeter when you turn on the key, you instantly see the static voltage of the battery and also instantly see the initiation of the alternator output with the increase of voltage simultaneously with the LED shutting off. The ammeter is also a great way to see the output, but if your battery is fully charged and requires very little alternator output to recharge, the ammeter movement could only be a blip and a bit hard to discern. Of course that's in reference to a tractor with little or no external electrical load beyond the starting or ignition load. Good concise and informative video. Don't listen to the naysayers, we know this works.
Thank you! I just happened to get a new Delco Remi alternator for my 1982 Allis Chalmers forklift and was trying to figure out how to wire it and there you were on TH-cam with the perfect video! I love it when a plan comes together! Thanks again!
Thank you so much! Your tip of running a jumper wire from the BATT to terminal 2 got my mf135 charging. Much appreciated.
Best video on this topic that I have found!!! Well done
Excellent advice regarding the alternator "chassis-to-engine-block" negative cable. This eliminates the negative current from trying to use the alternator mounting for continuity.
Wtih the distance to/from the ammeter and then to the battery, I would use at least an 8 gauge circuit.
If using a volt meter in lieu of an Ammeter, the charge circuit will be shorter, possibly allowing for a smaller gauge.
Although in the Marine world, yellow is now used for Negative, for years black has been synomonous with Negative.
I would suggest using a colored (other than yellow) wire for any Positive conductors.
If I may elaborate some re; 3.54 into the video. With the use of an Ammeter, that circuit runs first to the ammeter..... then to the battery.
If I may elaborate again re; 4:05 into the video, the Self Exciting 10si (what some call the "one wire" 10si) does indeed require a bump in RPM in order to become excited.
However, once excited, it will remain excited until engine shut-down.
FYI..... technically speaking, there is no "ground" in a 12 vdc system. Positive and Negative only.
This is the best video on this subject. I actually feel I can go and install my new alternator on my butchered old tractor
Absolutely! Follow close you’ll do great. Only a few wires and you’ll get it up and charging in no time.
You are the BEST!!! I have been waiting for 5 YEARS for this information and you made it clear and concise. I have a Fordson Power Major. One of the BEST DIY videos on TH-cam! Cant wait to get to my machine.
Thats awesome. I have 2 Fordson Major diesels, a Power major and the Super Major. Love those tractors.
Thanks for the additional explanation regarding the idiot light function.
Great job on this video! I have a Duce and half made into a log prehauler with a 350 engine, been having an issue with it not charging for quite some time, did all sorts of rewiring and asking know it alls and watching ‘way to long ‘ videos, nothing worked. Watched your video, did exactly as you said - it all works perfectly- thank you !
Great to hear! I was having trouble with my tractor, every time I went to start it the battery was dead. Turns out the alt wasn’t charging! Thank you so much for watching. :)
@@iamdjnam I'm trying rewire a Howard Price 727 mower. The panel was taken apart, the wiring doesn't match the color code to the original manufacturer and I am fit to be tied to properly install wiring between fuel gauge, engine temperature gauge and hour meter. The wiring shows an exciter wire to the valve for fuel that must be in the open position to allow fuel flow. What a pain in the neck! Thanks for posting your video...it might help to get this unit back up and running. I need it for making compressed earth block for an off grid home. Blessings!
I put a VW Vanagon Alternator (1986-1991) 90amp on my Ford 7500 Backhoe and thanks to you I figured out to excite it I put Ignition voltage to the B+ terminal Happy Day! Thanks
No problem glad I could help!
I followed the steps in the video very closely and it worked perfectly
Excellent! Happy to hear it!
Great straight forward explanation of how/why to run the wiring on a diesel machine. thanks! I'm converting my 1965 International Harvester tractor from generator to alternator. I've got the 10SI alternator ordered and on the way. Now to buy some 10 AWG wire, a light and an ampmeter.
Thank you. I was so sick of watching 40 minute videos and learning nothing.
I wish others made helpful and clearly explained videos. My respects bud. No hollywood intro or other bs 👍
This was a great video! Easy to watch and concise. Got my old international R120 converted and runs better than ever
Excellent. Thanks for watching!
After watching some other vids about installing an alternator on a low rpm engine (garden tractor), I finally figured out why my "one wire" alternator wasn't putting out anything. Thanks.
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching.
What a great video! Clear cut and to the point! Thanks!
Absolutely GREAT!! I love that old Allis!
You are spot on about connecting the terminal one wire to the ACC post on the ignition sw.
Not many people know that! Nice work my man...
Thank you! I love this machine. Its been so good to me and I return the favor with proper maintenance :)
@@iamdjnam Yep - I have a 1957 Farmall 350 that the generator died on several years ago. Got tired of charging the battery every whip-stitch so I put on a 1 wire. An older gentleman down the road said use the ignition ACC post to connect an exciter wire. That way when you turn off the key all the juice is dead and it won't keep running on ya'. The man knew his stuff!! LOL! .
Not many guys left that know these old machines in and out!
Lots of info out there but your advice is right on target - Nice Job!!
Tip when adding this on heavy eqipment the Excited wire should go to a 2 terminal oil presser switch you install. So it not so hard on starting am battery in cold weather. This way the alternator not trying to charge putting load on starter an battery until oil presser is up. Machines from factory are wire like this. Can't tell you how many guys think the alternator bad when it's a failed oil presser switch.. make so much easier starting. With out the load of the alternator.
If it's a true 1 wire self exciting, which this one is not, it won't have any load until the rpms are raised anyway.
Worked great. I'm running an alternator off of the rear axle of a homemade trike. It starts charging at 25-30 mph and keeps battery up good 👍
Awesome!
Awesome explanation. Its kinda counterintuitive how a 1 wire alternator needs like 5 wires
That is actually a three wire alternator. A one wire alternator only has one wire from Batt on alternator to positive on the battery. A one wire alternator does not require the light because they are self exciting and do not require the light to create a load excitement. It is actually better that you are using a three wire alternator because the typical true one wire alternator contains junk diodes that go bad. When the diodes in a one wire alternator fail, the battery will bleed down through the alternator and kill your battery. The three wire alternators are much more durable due to tried and true diodes and they are 30% cheaper. So actually what you have done is shown a method for wiring a 3-wire alternator which is better than a true one wire alternator.
Yeah you’re actually the 2nd person today to say that
International trucks from the 70s had an alternator like this and they had no light for the alternator. They just had 1 wire coming from the accessory of the key switch to terminal #1 and a jumper going from terminal #1 to terminal #2. This is how I wire all my tractors. They only time there is a problem is if the tractor doesnt have an accessory terminal on the key switch so you have to wire the exciter wire to the ignition terminal on the key switch and sometimes they want to back feed and the engine wont shut off when you turn off the key. This is easily fixed by wiring in a diode between the key switch and the terminal #1. This diode only allows the power to flow in one direction and prevents back feeding.
Yeah I ended up just wiring to ACC after replacing the ignition switch.
Really helpful! Thanks for being so clear and concise.
Best video I have seen regarding this type of project. Thank you!!
Best video I’ve seen,no nonsense.Wish I found you first
That’s the whole idea! Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks.
Great video I have not done one this way in like 20 years forget everything to do thanks for the help man
THAT IS WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR ON HOW TO HOOKUP THE WIRING! THANKS FOR THAT HOOKUP INFOMATION
You're welcome glad I could help
Thankyou, been struggling with my massey 65 for a while now.
Thank very much for your information on how to wire a one wire alternater up I have a ih b275 which iv had problem's makeing it charger you have helped me alot thanks once again
Great video. Yes there aren't many video's on wiring tractors. I'm replacing a wiring harness on a 5040 Allis Chalmers that has an old harness that has chopped up, spliced wires and missing wires. I got a new harness with no labels on the wires so I'm trying to figure out where they all go. My new harness has two wires with the alternator main wire. The Tractor has a Delco Remy alternator just like the one in this video. The dash has a volt meter gauge with a scale from 10 to 17 and says battery voltage.
A multimeter is your best friend when tracing wires. I also purchased the manual for my machine that provided me with some diagrams.
@@iamdjnam yes I have both service and operator manuals. The operator manual has the wiring dirgram to help trace the wires. Your video was very helpful. Thanks
Short n sweet!....thanks bud.
Good video. Clear commentary.
i have a tractor with the same 10si on it. and the battery was getting low. now i know why. there were no wires onto the leads. have to rewire and thank you very much.
Happy to help!
Good information I’m wiring a John Deere backhoe thanks
quick and to the point . ride on.
Really nice can you do another one with the blueprints please
Very good instructions simplified it really done a great job
Very well done love the simplicity. Only wish I could have a diagram 🙂
I will draw one up and leave a link to my google drive
@@iamdjnam visuals are great for simple country boy
NJ boi must think different lol
I put 1 wire alternatorsGM110 amps straight from-the one post to the positive post on the battery, I have never ever had any problems,with battery or alternator, no need for anything in the wire ,just run a wire to the post +, on p.s. you will need a bigger pulley on tractor’s,they will self excite on it own,
Thanks for the video. The AC Delco alternator uses an exciter wire with a diode. Is a diode wire necessary?
Great video man, makes perfect sense. Thanks for posting!
Very clear instructions,Thank you.
You can also add a resitor instead of a light. I use short peace resistor wire as jumper
A light is better. Visual as well as excite current.
Great video, great to the point information! Headed out to do this now. Thanks!
Thanks for the show.
concise and beautifully explained
Much appreciated. Thank you.
Simply. Simple
Awesome video and explanation!
Two questions.
1. What is the downside to simply going from the battery to the alternator stud?
2. I've read Ammeters can be fire hazards. Why might this be? How do we prevent?
Good video well done
Could you list all the supplies and links where to buy them?
I got mine charging, thanks
Is there anything I need to do differently if I have a positive ground system?
I have a gas Massey 165 I’m wanting to hook a one wire alternator up to. Is the process the same? When I took off the old alternator, there’s a wire running from 2 to the dash and no jumper to the positive alternator output from the terminals which is opposite of how you did it. Not sure which way is correct.
Great help. Thanks a lot.
This is a 3 wire, not a 1 wire.
Nice tutorial, although I think I fried my ammeter! 😳
very informative tks
The starter has a main power from battery terminal. It also has an s and r terminal. S wire goes to the neutral switch and then to the ignition switch. Where does the wire from the r terminal on the starter solenoid go to
Some say that goes to a tachometer if you have one.
So why the difference for if you are running accessories like lights and fans?
Could you hook the ground directly to the battery if you were using an auxiliary alternator?
I would still connect to chassis or block.
Question: on the ignition switch are there any other wires besides the one coming from the led light? Thanks for this very helpful vid.
Yes one to the fuel pump solenoid and one to the starter solenoid.
I’m installing an alternator on my Massey Ferguson 135 diesel and this looks like it will work for that.
Did as you but start the tractor & alternated does not kick in still have to rave for it to kick in number 1 to the light in dash turn switch on light comes on number 2 to starter positive.I have a volt meter.
Thank you for your video very helpful 😊
You’re welcome happy to help
why would run the wire coming off the ampmeter to the starter post? do you mean the solenoid? what about to the battery, I guess it would go to the positive terminal?
So the starter post on this particular machine branches power off to the battery. You can either go to the 12v starter post or the battery.
Decent instruction. Ever heard of a paper and pen to draw a picture to make it easy?
How would you wire in a neutral safety switch on this system?
Very descriptive
What if I do not have a key switch. I have a push button to start my tractor how do I excite the alternator
By far the best video out there. I have a Massey 50 industrial loader with a push button start and mechanical stop, the existing generator failed years ago and I plan to convert using your design but with a toggle on off switch in place of a key start seeing that this system is working. Do you see any problems?
That should work fine, just make sure its not wired back to the same terminal as fuel, as any back feed will prevent your machine from turning off.
excellent will do this on my 3550 ford tlb backhoe
Great video, but I would have liked to seen a wiring diagram either on a piece of paper or on white board and then leave camera on diagram for like 10 sec or so or link wiring diagram in the description or both. Thanks
great video
Do you need the number exciter wire on a one wire alternator
Good video
Im going to rewire my 1466 international harvestors alternator been having trouble with the battery staying charged long enough to run the knife on the net wrap part of the baler. Has to have 13.1 v or it throws an error code and wont cut just wastes a bunch of twine. Thought the alternator was hooked up properly but when my dad was alive i recall him saying if u didnt rev it over 1500 rpm the alternator wouldnt charge at an idle. So that was simply cause he didnt run another wire to the ignition so it would excite as the key turned on instead of just when it was above idle? Also wanted to ask if it would be better to take the wire from the numer 2 post that u connected right back to the alternator would it be better to connect it to the battery or absolutely connect it to the positve alternator cable? I just want to be sure is all before i screw something up and burn my grandfathers tractor up. Is the positive starter post where i should connect at to run a block to attach lights to and such? I dont have radio in there just some lights i normally hooked to the battery to turn on.
Yeah so to make it charge immediately you need that second line coming from ACC. As far as the lights and stuff I would wire it directly to the battery so the starter terminal doesn’t get warm.
@@iamdjnam cool i really appriciate that. I need to place some switches in it so i can flip a switch when it gets dark instead of stopping what im doing to get out and connect them to the bolt on the battery post. I bought a couple bar lights and some square led sets cause that tractor is very lacking in the light department. Really appricate u answering back even though the video was a couple years old. Sure appriciate it ive watched it like 6 times just to lock it into my brain prob watch it a couple more times before i start removing shit. If u are from Sw Pa or close by and want some wiring work let me know got all kinds of old tractors. Mostly olivers but a couple internationals and massey Ferguson tractors we havent used for awhile.
My tractor has no key switch so what's the fix for that
Good video! Doing this next weekend. I seen on another video that it's necessary to use 10 and 12 gauge wire. ???
Use the gauge of wire shown in the video. A lower gauge will handle current and amperage better. My alternator is a 30amp and works perfectly with said gauge.
From the amp meter does the negative side go to the positive connection?
Yes
@@iamdjnam Thanks for the question and answer. This is one question that has baffled me.
does the LED light create enough load to excite the alternator, LEDs have very little draw, compared to an incandescent bulb.
I totally bypassed it an went right to ACC on the ignition switch
@@iamdjnam to me it seems to be on the ignition terminal of the switch
Thank you for your video ..
You’re welcome
Im kinda lost do you put a wire from the positive on battery to the alternator? To send the charge to the battery. And with the ignition switch how does it go to the starter? I gotta run all new on a chipper i just bought. Please help lol
Lmao you’re good. You put a wire from the battery to the terminal on the back of the alternator. Then u put a wire from the ACC on your ignition to that little terminal that says 1 (or 2 idk I mention it in the video)
Super Job man , thanks
No problem. Thanks for watching.
My Ferguson doesn't have an accessory. The key is momentary on, with a manual cutoff, where would the exciter wire go?
It needs to go to a momentary source of power that cuts when the key is off.
Thanks for this video! I have an old Delco 10SI alternator but it has 3 flange connections + the Batt Output, 1, 2 and R. How would this differ?
I honestly have no idea. I don’t want to lead you in the wrong direction. Best thing to do is find a schematic for that alternator that tells you what each terminal is for. I know on some alternators they allow you to hook up a tachometer
I'm thinking the R is for RPM gauge
? If you have a Bat and a 1 and a 2 terminal on the alt. it's not a one wire alt., is it?
I guess you have a point. I think the “one wire” saying comes from the fact that you can run a wire straight to the battery. But remember, engines that rev low don’t trigger the alternator to start charging. That’s why on my diesel I had to run it this way.
@@iamdjnam I'm not sure about the internals in them, but I found a one wire alt for my Ford 621 gas, that starts charging at 500 rpm. I was hoping to see how to hook it up properly. Any input on that? Thanks
@@vernboulet1015 As far as that goes, hook your wire from the back up to the battery, and terminal 2 to the post on the back of the alt. Take a multimeter make sure you're getting 14v with it running.
@@iamdjnam My problem is, there is no terminal 2. There is a black plastic cap/thing where I believe the 2 would be. All I have access to is the alt. output lug. Should I run the wire from the alt. through a volt meter or amp gauge and then to the battery? So I can see if the alt. stops charging before I'm dead somewhere? Or straight to the bat.? (thanks for your input)
@@vernboulet1015 Amp meters are cheap enough. Definitely run one. Remember + side goes to the alt and - side goes to the battery.
My replacement alternator has terminals or posts labeled E, F, &N.
With reman alternators no one knows what voltage regulator is installed unless you ask for a 1 wire. This is a marine regulator because in a boat, they don’t want the alternator on until the engine is at a higher RPM to avoid fumes causing a fire. On a car, truck the run B+ from key on to dash, the peanut bulb limits current but turns on the regulator after cranking. You don’t want the alternator pulling on the starter when cranking. The bulb is a current limiter for the regulator. This circuit has 12Vdc to turn lamp on and the field produces 12Vdc when working. With 12Vdc on both sides of the bulb there is no potential for current to flow so the bulb goes off. If the diode trio or main diodes start to leak voltage backward due to heat, age or defect, the light will glow from dim to bright telling the owner something is wrong with the charging. The most common one wire regulator copy you Delco Marine, that is why you have to rev up to make work. Any other regulator starts working as soon as started because the diode trio supplies the regulator with voltage to supply ground to the rotor at 400HZ as it is below AM band radio dials to eliminate radio noise. The stator used is “Y” connect and that center is hot when working, that is field. The marine regulator other wire is system voltage sense to adjust charge rate in volts. Inside there is a ceramic resistor that changes with air temp. Higher voltage when cold and lower voltage when hotter. That is the difference for time in turn-on can range from 1.5 sec. to 4 seconds. This spec is used when picking a voltage regulator.
ASE Master since 1978, retired.
Lot going on here. Thanks for commenting.
Was it positive ground or negative ground
Negative
So my tractor doesn't have an acc post on the ignition switch. It only has two terminals. Would I connect that wire to the output terminal?
Yes but u have to run a diode or Mini light to prevent backfeed. If you don’t the machine will stay running when you turn the key off.
@@iamdjnam thank you but the key doesn't stay in the start position. Its a diesel and to shut it off, I pull the shut off knob. I planned on wiring a light in as you did so hopefully it will do the same. Thanks for the response
Hi
What's the Amps of the alternator and part number if you don't mind..
Ty
Alternator used is in the description
If your tractor does my have that led light does the excitor wire go to the accessory position on the ignition switch?
Yes.
Thanks good 👍
Will this work? (this is how my Massey wiring diagram shows it):
The wire from the LED goes to a post on the oil pressure switch (instead of an accessory terminal of the switch).
And also, the F (#2) terminal on the alternator is wired to the negative side of the amp guage, which is then wired to the Bat terminal of the solenoid. So it has 12V all the time to the F, but only has power to R when there's oil pressure?
The ignition switch only has one wire in and one wire out (to the S solenoid terminal)-its just "off" or "start".
From my understanding, if you incorrectly wire the #1 terminal, the engine will stay running despite the key being turned off. On my AC, the previous owner cut all sorts of wires and capped a bunch of things. Being a yard machine, it doesn’t run everyday so there needs to be a way to excite the alt. My ign switch has an ACC terminal, which is what I use to excite. Then the charge feed from the alt goes to the positive of the ammeter. You can just wire your #2 to the back terminal like I have.
Why isnt every video this straight foward
Nice thanks
so does the red light go out after starting?
Do you need the indicator light??
Not if you wire to ACC