Great upgrade! I put one of these (150amp) on my old Chevy and it made a huge improvement in charging system. Note: Tuff Stuff recommends running a dedicated ground (from battery or the exact spot on the engine that is grounded to the battery) to the ground tab designed into the alternator housing because block iron doesn't conduct as well as copper. Also, you ran the super large positive copper wire which is great but is also now limited by the ground through housing method. You might consider adding the dedicated ground. Cool video! That truck is getting stronger every day.
When I did this on my 69 mustang, I ran an inline fuse between the red wire and the solenoid. I recommend adding that in. I also added a ground from the alternator to the block… as you said… not required but good to have.
The truth is it as a little more than super simple to install. clocking the distribute and what was not shown is when the correct length belt is installed the bearing housing on the rear of the alternator contacts the engine block causing misalignment of the belt. This may only be a problem for the FE 360 390 and 428 cid engines.
The correct length of belt that makes this work is just that, the correct length. Clocking the housing is a common step as this specific Alt was not made only for a 1968 360FE engine. This is still a super simple install, but I guess that matters if you're trying to compare this to refilling the washer fluid reservoir. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Im no stranger to the FE . I know clocking does nothing for the bearing housing hitting the block on any alternator . A longer belt will work but not unless you extend the top slide bracket .
I’m just about to do this to my f100 fe390 engine. Does the alternator you brought run on the heads at all? If clearances ok? Would love that confirmation before I buy from the states (I’m from Australia 🇦🇺)
I had to "clock" the back of the Alt to clear a spot on the head. It's easy, loosen the four screws on the back, spin it, tighten the screws, and you're done. Do not pull the two halves of the Alt apart, just back out the screws and rotate, trust me. :)
Does this same thing work for a 390 LTD that has A/C ? Do I have to worry about anything with the regulator wiring in my car? Its a 1967 Ford LTD with 390
Yes it will work the same. Make sure you get an Alternator that will give you enough amperage (at least 100A, possibly 150A). The voltage regulator is internal to the Alt, so the external voltage regulator that is used in combination with the stock Alt unit will no longer be needed or used. The A/C system won't be affected with your new Alt. :)
SUBBED, I've got a 78 F150 I want to do this to, when you clocked it did you have to pull the case up ANY, or did you just remove the bolts and just rotated? Makes me REAL NERVOUS having to remove all the bolts to clock it.
Remove the bolts and spin, do not pull the two case halves apart. If you pull them too far apart, the brushes will pop out and you'll have to compress the springs and hold them in place while you try to put the two halves back together. You don't want that hassle. :)
Yes, and I have a video of doing the same thing on my '66 Mustang, check it out! Correct, the voltage regulator is on the driver side core support, next to the radiator. :)
No, it comes that way. The truck came with the voltage regulator as a separate component back in the 60s, and alternators today are internally regulated. It's simpler and cleaner. Plus, most rewire kits require a one-wire alternator, so this just simplifies the recharging system of the truck for now and future plans. :)
There are kits to alter a alternator yourself. You should always rebuild your alternator yourself, because most rebuilt units come from junk yards where the pulley shaft sat under tension and became warped -it's mostly why rebuilt alternators have a super high failure rate. I learned this the hard way, and that Powermaster lathes the shaft to true to reduce failure.
I’m m missing a lot of likes. You should mention it sooner because I forget. Then I loose my order of videos. I’m new to TH-cam so it’s possible I’m screwing up. But other people seems to have a little more time after reminding me to like the video. Just saying it might be limiting your likes. But I enjoy watching anyway. I’m not really sure how it works but I’m sure it affects your sponsorships . Just a fyi
I don't have any sponsorships, so the likes don't help or hurt me there. I actually don't like saying it, but it's been my closing statement for over 4 years, so....... :)
No offense I’m just making a suggestion. I guess some of these guys kinda count on likes. But know iv seen and enjoyed many (a dozen) or more of your videos. And get many ideas from you. Thanks. I’m breaking ground in spring for my bigger garage. With a big lift. I’ve been an auto body and mechanic for over 40 years. And as you know the newer cars aren’t made to be worked on. I did think for decades they was assembled on a line to build faster. But now it seems they are focusing on making things much more difficult so nobody wants to work on them. But the early 70s and earlier cars are made much more serviceable and less complicated. So I’m going old school at home and into retirement. But thanks for sharing your experiences. And if you ever wanted to do a body restoration video. I would be happy to share some of my experience And shop Older cars are way more simple. And looks like your fastback could eventually use some sheet metal. And panel alignment . For me that stuff is way easier than building a 289 combustible engine. But after watching your videos I feel more confident about it. In your hood gap issue you probably just need a couple shims on the hinge or shim the fender out. A 1/8” might be too much. Maybe a 32nd on each would make a huge difference. The newer stuff isn’t adjustable without tweaking twisting or bending things. You only get 3 mill of tolerance. The older stuff a tram gage and shims and you can really make a huge difference . Remember I’m not being critical I’m only reaching out
My advise to Anyone that cant make their Ford run, and think they need to swap to an ls cheby. Just sell to someone that knows how to make a Ford run..
Nice upgrade. Those spaces on the heads are awesome, you are right lol
You can't tell me when I'm right, it goes to my head. :)
I have a 79 ford f100 and got that same alternator. Ive been having issues with overthinking it but, then you posted this video.
Awesome, you've got this! :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks
Great upgrade! I put one of these (150amp) on my old Chevy and it made a huge improvement in charging system. Note: Tuff Stuff recommends running a dedicated ground (from battery or the exact spot on the engine that is grounded to the battery) to the ground tab designed into the alternator housing because block iron doesn't conduct as well as copper. Also, you ran the super large positive copper wire which is great but is also now limited by the ground through housing method. You might consider adding the dedicated ground. Cool video! That truck is getting stronger every day.
Thanks for the heads up.
I got to do this with my 1972 f100, thank you
Awesome, you've got this! :)
When I did this on my 69 mustang, I ran an inline fuse between the red wire and the solenoid. I recommend adding that in. I also added a ground from the alternator to the block… as you said… not required but good to have.
Thanks for the heads up.
The truth is it as a little more than super simple to install. clocking the distribute and what was not shown is when the correct length belt is installed the bearing housing on the rear of the alternator contacts the engine block causing misalignment of the belt. This may only be a problem for the FE 360 390 and 428 cid engines.
The correct length of belt that makes this work is just that, the correct length. Clocking the housing is a common step as this specific Alt was not made only for a 1968 360FE engine. This is still a super simple install, but I guess that matters if you're trying to compare this to refilling the washer fluid reservoir. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Im no stranger to the FE . I know clocking does nothing for the bearing housing hitting the block on any alternator . A longer belt will work but not unless you extend the top slide bracket .
100 amp, are we prepping to add some additional electronics? Nice video.
You never know..... :)
I’m just about to do this to my f100 fe390 engine. Does the alternator you brought run on the heads at all? If clearances ok? Would love that confirmation before I buy from the states (I’m from Australia 🇦🇺)
I had to "clock" the back of the Alt to clear a spot on the head. It's easy, loosen the four screws on the back, spin it, tighten the screws, and you're done. Do not pull the two halves of the Alt apart, just back out the screws and rotate, trust me. :)
Does this same thing work for a 390 LTD that has A/C ? Do I have to worry about anything with the regulator wiring in my car? Its a 1967 Ford LTD with 390
Yes it will work the same. Make sure you get an Alternator that will give you enough amperage (at least 100A, possibly 150A). The voltage regulator is internal to the Alt, so the external voltage regulator that is used in combination with the stock Alt unit will no longer be needed or used. The A/C system won't be affected with your new Alt. :)
SUBBED, I've got a 78 F150 I want to do this to, when you clocked it did you have to pull the case up ANY, or did you just remove the bolts and just rotated? Makes me REAL NERVOUS having to remove all the bolts to clock it.
Remove the bolts and spin, do not pull the two case halves apart.
If you pull them too far apart, the brushes will pop out and you'll have to compress the springs and hold them in place while you try to put the two halves back together. You don't want that hassle. :)
So I assume I can do this to my 66 mustang and is the voltage regulator on the mustang in the driver side on the rad support
Yes, and I have a video of doing the same thing on my '66 Mustang, check it out!
Correct, the voltage regulator is on the driver side core support, next to the radiator. :)
So you made a three wire alternator into a one wire alternator?
No, it comes that way. The truck came with the voltage regulator as a separate component back in the 60s, and alternators today are internally regulated. It's simpler and cleaner. Plus, most rewire kits require a one-wire alternator, so this just simplifies the recharging system of the truck for now and future plans. :)
There are kits to alter a alternator yourself. You should always rebuild your alternator yourself, because most rebuilt units come from junk yards where the pulley shaft sat under tension and became warped -it's mostly why rebuilt alternators have a super high failure rate. I learned this the hard way, and that Powermaster lathes the shaft to true to reduce failure.
I’m m missing a lot of likes. You should mention it sooner because I forget. Then I loose my order of videos. I’m new to TH-cam so it’s possible I’m screwing up. But other people seems to have a little more time after reminding me to like the video. Just saying it might be limiting your likes. But I enjoy watching anyway. I’m not really sure how it works but I’m sure it affects your sponsorships . Just a fyi
I don't have any sponsorships, so the likes don't help or hurt me there. I actually don't like saying it, but it's been my closing statement for over 4 years, so....... :)
No offense I’m just making a suggestion. I guess some of these guys kinda count on likes. But know iv seen and enjoyed many (a dozen) or more of your videos. And get many ideas from you. Thanks. I’m breaking ground in spring for my bigger garage. With a big lift. I’ve been an auto body and mechanic for over 40 years. And as you know the newer cars aren’t made to be worked on. I did think for decades they was assembled on a line to build faster. But now it seems they are focusing on making things much more difficult so nobody wants to work on them. But the early 70s and earlier cars are made much more serviceable and less complicated. So I’m going old school at home and into retirement. But thanks for sharing your experiences. And if you ever wanted to do a body restoration video. I would be happy to share some of my experience And shop Older cars are way more simple. And looks like your fastback could eventually use some sheet metal. And panel alignment . For me that stuff is way easier than building a 289 combustible engine. But after watching your videos I feel more confident about it. In your hood gap issue you probably just need a couple shims on the hinge or shim the fender out. A 1/8” might be too much. Maybe a 32nd on each would make a huge difference. The newer stuff isn’t adjustable without tweaking twisting or bending things. You only get 3 mill of tolerance. The older stuff a tram gage and shims and you can really make a huge difference . Remember I’m not being critical I’m only reaching out
Amp light will not work.
Correct, I'm not wiring it up for it to work. :)
My advise to Anyone that cant make their Ford run, and think they need to swap to an ls cheby. Just sell to someone that knows how to make a Ford run..
Is that what this video is about?