How To Tune A Chainsaw | Adjusting The Carburetor
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ส.ค. 2019
- Tuning a chainsaw properly will help prolong the life of the saw, and help it work best for whatever jobs you have. We'll show you how to quickly run through a few test with the saw and show you what adjustments to make to the carburetor to ensure your saw is running in tip-top shape!
- บันเทิง
This is the best tuning video for a Husky that I've seen. Most are too technical. This method mimics the methods I've seen pros use when in the woods and need the saw to work right, NOW.
Glad you found it helpful!!
to the guy that actually knew what he was talking about and explained it so greatly
Thank You!!!!!!
Thank you! This is the first of its kind that I have seen. And I had never seem the Dump Test at all. I had imagined ways to do this once the first full carburetor adjustments had been completed. I have a new, unused chainsaw and I know it needs to be adjusted for my location's altitude, temp, humidity, fuel grade, etc. I bought a $20 induction Tach/Hour Meter with a sensor cord that wraps around the spark plug cord to get these setting as perfect as possible. It can be set for 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, & 8 cylinder engines, both 2-stroke and 4-stroke, but your procedure should make changing weather conditions' adjustments much easier. Glad I keep looking at videos to find you. Isn't it great that a video done 3 years ago is still helping people? Thanks again! Great job! I took notes at every step. Excellent descriptive explanations, too!
This was so easy to understand the whats and why’s of what your doing compared to other videos - in 4 minutes! Good job!
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful!
Agreed! This is the best tuning video ever! Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Great explanation, would have liked to have seen him tune a saw that wasn't already tuned.
Very informative and to the point with great tests to help you figure out what’s wrong👍🏼
Very cool and a lot less intimidating than I thought, but like others said, it would be nice to have an off tuned one adjusted since this is explained so well.
We appreciate the feedback and will do one with an un tuned saw in the future.
@@Whitetail_Properties How To Tune A Chainsaw
Wow. Awesome video. This is critical knowledge that is easy to understand. That's the old school type of information I've been seeking thank you sir! 🙌
Love all these videos of how to adjust a carb on a saw that fires up and ideals instead of one that won’t
We've got that a lot. We will do one with a saw thats out of tune here in the near future
Simple no nonsense explanation. Thank you!
Thank you sir!
I've been struggling for the past couple of days retuning the carb. Will give the "dump test" a try. My trouble is I tend to second guess myself and my ears thinking that I can get it to sound and perform a better.
You bet, glad you found it helpful! And yes, your ears can trick you in this situation for sure!
Finally, ive been using an MS390 for years now, in the last two years its started running really bad (revving way to high, bogging and idling way to high causing chain to spin at idle) This video helped me tune it perfectly, Thanks!
Awesome! Glad we could help!
Before you adjust any chainsaw carb you should let it idle for one minute. Screwing in the idle screw raises the idle. If your chain is turning you should screw it ou until it stops. It alsomay be because you have you chain adjusted to loose or because you have a broken clutch spring. I tighten my chains a little tighter than most folks, so my chains do not rotate at idle. If they creep, as they sometimes do, I just throw the chain break on. I generally set my idle with my digital tach - small saws at 2,800-3,000. Bigger saws at 2,500-2,700. I set my low jet for good acceleration and my high for a good four stroke. I generally set my high jet first, and then the low jet. I use a tach but I generally set them by ear.
Interesting but it sounds like you need some tuition.
Thank you! Easy and straightforward instructions!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks, my echo cs 590 is having the chain keeps spinning. Sometimes it sounds like it is at half throttle. I'll try to adjust that screw. It made me really good at putting the chain brake on. Cheers.
Legend. Thank you very much and God bless for sharing the knowledge
Excellent explanation sir thank you
This is all good info but I think it could have been demonstrated much better by showing the saw running rich or lean and improving on it. My saws run great but I'm planning on doing the exhaust mod so I wanna be a little more informed on tuning my saws.
I thought I hit fast forward my mistake. 😂
How could you not get a thorough explanation from this. He explained everything as it is with the characteristics for adjustment, plain and simple with out a bunch of wasted time talking about nothings Smh
Nice presentation, perfect, for the not so, mechanically inclined.
Glad you found it helpful!
Thank you professor!
Informative and outstanding. Thank you very much.
Thank you! Glad you found it helpful!
Wow! Thank you!!
Been using a saw pretty hardcore the past few weeks and has no idea this existed!
you are the best thank you very much!!!
Great Video Kept it nice and simple 👍🏾 👌🏾
Thanks for watching!
Thanks Cocko 🇦🇺
Ideal test
Good info
Thanks sir. Rookie, but not for long.
Very nice.
Fabulous! Never seen t the dump test.
What do the anticlockwise arrowed circles
Whether or not the chain spins due to being idled too high/loose chain it is good safety practice to always engage the chain brake before removing either hand from the handles. If for some reason the trigger safety switch (on the top of the rear handle) were to fail you could seriously injure yourself or a bystander by accidentally engaging the throttle. A working chain brake is the #1 safety feature you can have on a chainsaw. I'm highly experienced so I use full chisel chains with low drags but inexperienced operators should used anti kick back chains and bars. For the non professional folks who have no reason nor idea how to plunge cut a nose guard is another great safety feature. Also aside from low kick back chains and bars, working chain brake and using common sense another major safety tip is to always operate your saw with a properly sharpened chain. Meaning it is not only sharp but also filed in correspondence with the Lazer cut file guides on each cutting tooth.
Great insight, thank you for sharing!
Using common sense definitely the #1 safety feature! It’s like driving a car or bike - one moment of inattention, distraction, complacency or risk taking and your life ends right there.
Running a chainsaw aint brain surgery o wise one.
@@joshlower1 said every guy I know that eventually cut himself with a chainsaw
Good point about the chain brake, it should be used when the chain is stopped, but it's still important to set the idle low enough for the chain not to spin without the brake. If the chain wants to spin and the brake is the only thing preventing it from spinning, you run the risk of burning the centrifugal clutch and surrounding material.
Best video
Should have it not set so we can see what it is like when it needs adjustment
Hello / Dear sir thanks for your Information Recording Chainsaw How to Run /Good explain I wish all the best...
I have an old homelite saw that i am trying to raise the idle on. Since its very old its not clearly marked where these adjustments are.
The dump test is a new one for me. I will be trying it out. I recently changed a carburetor on a Echo chain saw. Starts right up, idles and accelerates as it should. I was told it is 4 stroking. My hearing is not the best & I cannot really tell. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Stay well, Joe Z
Give it a try! Most saws are two-stroke. If it is an older saw we suppose that it could be a 4-stroke..
@@Whitetail_Properties Thank you for replying. It is a 2 cycle but I was told the carb is set too rich causing it to 4 cycle. I am having difficulty hearing the 4 stroking & not sure if I should adjust to a leaner mix. I do not want to run it too lean.
@@JOEZEP54 No problem! Yes you certainly don't want to run it too lean. That will tear your motor up quickly. Let us know how the dump test goes, hopefully that will get you dialed in.
All how but no do. This is a skill that really needs to be shown. 😕
Hi really helpful video thanks. Is this the same process for an ms660?
Yes it should be!
Commercial saws are made to be adjusted otherwise there would be a revolt. The home type saws are absolutely horrid as they require expensive adjustment tools.
Thanks for video. Very easy to follow. Now may I ask how to store saws as I have around 60 McCulloch, Homelite, Pioneers etc.
Store dry carb or with fuel?... Cheers Carl
As far as storing we would say temp, length of time being stored and things like humidity would determine whether or not to store the saw "dry" or with fuel. Extreme conditions and lengthy duration we would say store it dry.
Very helpful. Thank you.
You Bet!
If your chain is moving it doesn't necessarily mean it is the idle. It can be you're clutch springs as well.
I guess I am quite off topic but does anybody know a good website to stream newly released series online?
@Milan Jamari Flixportal =)
@Daxton Elliot thanks, I went there and it seems like a nice service :D I really appreciate it!!
@Milan Jamari glad I could help :D
…or bad needle bearing.
Hi do you know where or how I can fix a echo cs 355 it won’t idle
i didnt think he notched the tree at the end haha
how does a dump test change anything?
Hey, can anyone help me? I have an ms210 and im not sure if the gas i used last time was bad or if it just needs needs proper tunng. While cutting a quite fat log, it was really slow, the gas didnt lag much but it was noticeable, and it just seemed like it was losing power. Im planning on ordering new parts for it (blade and chain, filters, clean oils and a few other thngs), but i want to be certain that its worth it, cause if its not maybe i should just get a new 251c or a 300 series and retire the 210.. i dont know what could be wrong i dont even have it at home now, but it hasnt ever been stressed bad or anything, and has had very few working hours. *i own a good old husqvarna at abt 70cc, but the stihl is lighter and just looks badass
this video got my saw set up so cool but show it fail those tests as well as pass ! needing a combination of all three is a compounding solution
That's 4 minutes & 45 seconds I'm never getting back
I wish I could get it to start and at least idle but I can't not do that at all. It was given to me and I don't know how bad the carburetor was messed with.
You should get a ryobi 14” cost 120
I want to know the price of cannon 381.
What tool do you use to turn them, small flat head?
Yes
The first thing to do is make sure the air filter is clean.
Does this also work for a Poulan Pro?
We cannot confirm. We would imaginde that the dump test would give you a similar idea of what the issue is.
Is it to lean when rpm increase when dumping?
Yes I believe so.. Is that not what Kip said in the video?
@3:30&3:37 when you reved the saw up..... it stalled at first.... your low speed adjustment is still off.... dirty air filter will cause that also.... more than likely the low speed adjustment is too rich.
why would these manufacturers deliberately make it impossible to set the carb without having to take it back to the dealer? This just chaps me , we got tons of videos hundreds of them all with the same problem and we don't have the spline tools....Just reeks.
To force you to take it to the dealership and pay more money
Really appreciate the info but less so when all of the checks/tests you did at end required zero changes. Pre-setting the high/low/idle so it needed adjustment would have been much more valuable. Thx again.
Yr chaps are way too damn clean... 😂 Nice explanation though. :)
Thank you, a simple and informative video, found it very helpful to figure out what to do in order to fix a low idle on one of my saws.
Showing drop starting the saw with the chain brake off is very dangerous and a great way to end up in hospital. Please use the chain brake and either sit the saw on the ground or lock the back handle between your legs when starting the saw. There’s a reason the instructions that come with saws say not to drop start them.
Thanks for watching, glad you found the video helpful!
Hello, have a question on my Stihl chainsaw. When i turn on my chainsaw , and then when i go to the idle position by pressing on the trigger and going to run position, it shuts off but if i depress the trigger few times , it won't shut off. Is that ok or is there something going on?
Could need to adjust the carburetor. Without seeing the saw run it's hard to say what is the problem, if anything. We would recommend running to your local farm store or hardware store that is an authorized stihl dealer and having them take a quick look at it.
@@Whitetail_Properties thanks , it’s a new saw , air filter clean , spark arresting screen is good .it’s weird where I if I depress the trigger couple or few times going from want start choke to run , it won’t shut off but if I wonky depress the trigger once to take it to run , it will shut off . Which setting on carburetor would you think would help on that ? I took it to dealer by the way and they said depressing it few times is normal
@@keeganjacobs5913 If the dealer said it is normal I wouldn't do anything to the saw. Sometimes on new products (blowers, chainsaws etc.) they have a break in period of 15-20 hours of run time. Especially newer saw. Most are programmed to adjust automatically.
I expected to put a flat head screw driver down the "LA" hole and run into a screw head. I couldn't find a screw driver small enough to fit in the hole, so I ordered a set and still am having problems. When I can get into the hole, with zero clearance, I seem to be hitting something soft! If anyone has advice then please send it along. Thanks.
Yes, it's a plastic limiter plug that's in your way.
Thread a wood screw into it and pull it out allowing you to make the adjustment.
I'm not a professional, I just watched a different TH-cam video that explained it to me.
Cheers
There is a rubber guide with holes in it. You may have to take your cover off if the holes in the rubber hole guide does not align with the actual holes to adjust on the carburetor.
If you pull the recoil rope and it starts up, you know you have gas in it!😮
I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle th-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
I don't understand the dump test. Chainsaws work in all orientations!
Apparently informative video however it could’ve been much improved if you would’ve shown example of what happens when you ask Josh
What about it revs fine but when let off throttle it dies
Could be a clogged carburetor
It idles perfectly takes gas just fine but soon as I let off gas it wont idle just turns off
@@daniellemaster1508 have you tried adjusting that idle screw both ways to see if maybe it’s not getting enough or getting to much gas?
What was that tree fell at the end lol. It looked like he tried a board cut but instead of cutting the trigger on the tree he just cut as close to his hing as he could untill the tree wanted to fall lol. Incorrect board cut my friend. If that’s what you were actually trying to do
Thank you for the info very useful, however, if you want to project safety don't drop start the saw.
Also, starting with the chainbreak engaged would be nice to see. Not to mention...eye pro
Im loosing power when I need it the most.
Except my saw will not idle without shutting down....
That's 4 minutes of my life I will never get back!
Why would you make a "how to tune your carb" video yet not have it set up so you have to adjust it for those learning? Your find the tests but it's working fine. You should have it so you have to do something to each setting.
LMAO, they only respond to positive feedback, not the feedback they should be actually looking at. Well put together, but really didn't need to be an in tune saw already. "Oh look, it's perfect, good luck" Would of been infinitely better showing an example of tuning it.
Agreed, would have helped those who had this particular make and model of saw.
@@Whitetail_Properties I think my issue isn't tuning, unfortunately. I cannot get it to idle at all.. I think both saws need aa new carb and fuel lines. Took the carb's apart and they are both extremely clean and freely moving. Found a knockoff kit for $15 on amazon I'll be giving a try since it's just for around the house and very light duty work.
ummm...why didn't to take it out of tune and actually show the conditions that lead to your adjustments. Good outline of the overall process, but lacks the practicality I look for in tutorials.
this video should be called "how to make sure you chainsaw is tuned properly". Doesn't explain the factory jet settings and how to actually adjust the screws.
Kip is not a small engine mechanic, he was simply trying to identify the important aspects of tuning a chainsaw and make people aware of such adjustments and how the saw "should" run/sound. Had he gone into depth about a particular saw, it wouldn't have pertained to everyone that owns a chainsaw. Most can/should look up those factory setting in the owners manual for their particular saws. Apologies if the title was misleading for you.
@@Whitetail_Properties Yes, it was misleading.
@@flywrite Our apologies
@@flywritelike any subject I want to learn about I've watched almost every chainsaw tuning video I can find. This subject cannot be summed up in 4 minutes! And, I'd recommend that anyone searching about chainsaw tuning don't adjust anything by ear! Highly recommend Steve's small engine saloon: th-cam.com/video/M6T5JoGXcHY/w-d-xo.html
Also buy a tachometer. They're cheaper than blowing up you're saw
Lowell Bradley good ol Steve has the best how to videos👍🏽👍🏽
That is not how I tune my Stihl chainsaws. I warm up my saw for a minimum of 5 minutes. I then adjust the idle to 3,300 according to my tach. I the lean out the low for max rpm at idle ( CW)- not exceed 3,700. If it exceeds 3,700 I readjust the idle to 3,300. After I get the max rpm out of the low jet, I use the low jet to drop the idle to the proscribed idle speed for my particular saw by richening the low jet (CCW). Btw, this is the proscribed procedure, right from the Stihl Service Manual. It works well, too.
Thanks for sharing. Kip was more or less trying to make the audience aware of the tunable setting on a chainsaw, some common problems people may have and how to address them - without getting super detailed on one particular saw or setting.
Use chainbreak. Don't do what he's doing 😅
How to tune a chainsaw, uses a saw that doesn't require adjustment. . .
how to verify a tuned saw should be the title...wasted my time...
You wasted my time
This video is completely useless as it only shows a perfectly running chainsaw. It didn't show me what to do if it wasn't running perfectly. Waste of time watching.
Seriously? You didn't show how to do any of the adjustments. You didn't even show what kind of screwdriver to use. Unbelievably pointless
not handy....you was afraid to start from point 0 and you couldn't set it up again?...this is informative video not a learning!...do I need the helmet on if I do that?...I'm beginner on chainsaw,I feel like didn't learn much...
If you cannot follow the instructions, you should not be running a chainsaw. Put on a helmet and get out your crayons
At the end why R U cutting down a perfectly good tree for?
Opening up that area to allow more sunlight in.
First thing to do is make sure the air filter is clean.