I heat with wood and everything I know about chainsaws I’ve learned on TH-cam. I think I’ve watched nearly every TH-cam on carb adjustments. This is hands down the best video by far! You are an excellent teacher! Thank you!
I guess Im randomly asking but does any of you know a tool to get back into an instagram account?? I stupidly lost my account password. I would love any tips you can offer me.
@Augustine Huxley i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
I HAVE BEEN TINMANIZED!!! PLEASE TURN OFF YOUR TV's AND TURN ON TINMAN'S INSPIRATIONAL TUTORIAL VIDEOS. JUST AN AMAZING AMOUNT OF VALUABLE detailed INFORMATION IN EVERY VIDEO. WHAT A FREE EDUCATION WE ARE RESEAVING!!!
Recently got into power saws as we heat our home with wood. I knew nothing until I watched Tinnman. Now, i have confidence to adjust, work on, & mod my saw. Thank you for your sharing ypur knowledge and producing quality content.
This is the exact way to tune a carb. I was taught the same way back in 1979. Been working for me since then and for my Dad decades before that. You can feel when it’s right when you’re in the cut, also the sound tells you. Great job Tinman!
This is the best practical demonstation and explanation of how and why to make carburettor adjustments. So many others have failed at describing it, but you nailed it. Well done!
I love watching Tinman's videos over and over again. So much detailed information, just amazing. What a humble man. Great educator and very articulate in his explanations!!!
I been tuning saws for 45 years but I have never seen such a good explanation of what you are trying to do what a help for people just getting in to saws this is the gold standard for saw tuning this is going help alot of people Thank you next can you take the next step and show what the plug looks like if you get your jets right and your favorite oil mix
THE BEST video on tuning a chainsaw. I have watched multiple videos, and this by far has been the most helpful, especially at EXPLAINING 4-stroking!!! Thank you Sir!!!
This is the very BEST tuning tutorial I've ever seen Tinman. You're very experienced but humble, and have a great gift for clearly explaining things. I really enjoyed this video. It deserves 30 times the views.
What a great video. I grew up with wood heat and have heated with wood primarily my entire life (70 years) and still do, so obviously I have had thousands of hours with a chainsaw in my hands. I currently have 6 or 7 saws, from 6.5 HP Neo Tec NS 8105 with 36" bar all the way down to 14" trim saws, various brands. I still learned some things here. I was having a little trouble adjusting the carb on my ECHO CS 310 yesterday and I got it running much better, but I didn't know you should adjust for when it is under load and a little blubber is good when not under load. Makes prefect sense and you demonstrated it perfectly. Liked and subscribed. Great job sir. Thank you.
Thank GOD for you making this video. I thought I had my Husky 268XP tuned too rich but I’m gonna leave it where it is and just adjust my idle. LOVE THE CONTENT!!!!!!!!
Timing I have started working on 2 strokes bout 4 years ago after I had a stroke and couldn't keep up the pace in a large autobody shop . I have listened to all the big saw guys out there bout carb tuning, Iron horse,Bellhopper,Buckin Billy Ray, Steve's Saloon, Fleet Command. It has never been simplified and step by step as you have explained it so thoroughly as you have. I've just started to get into the porting stages of my career and I'm so glad I ran across your channel. I will be enjoying your videos and your library for a long time. This is Byron and I thank you.
Well, I cut about 20 cords a year...i do my own maintenance and tuning...I follow the specs for every chainsaw...And i use a tachometer...But you can watch all the vids you want on tuning and its never seems to work....even with a tachometer i do a log test...And every time my high is off...So on my log test i adjust the high while the chainsaw is in action and has a load on it....And this guy is doing it all right....one of the best vids iv seen so far...though i do my adjustment while cutting to get the best performance..this guy pretty much does the same thing..its the best way...great vid
I have needed this for a while now with some big boy saws. They keep running funny from time with different bars, woods, temps, etc. excellent video. I am going to watch it again and again. thx brother.
Very much appreciated finding this video. You are the first(I have found) that actually not only explained 4-Stroking, but took the time to Present the Chainsaw under the condition. I've become comfortable with Tweaking the Carburetors on my saws to find good response and decent top RPM - and I always back off a little to avoid Lean running, but I never knew the saw would tell me where it is happiest. My tweaking experience comes from mostly picking up used Saws Cheap, that almost always have fuel line/Carburetor issues. I have found, as I purchase new (Less Expensive) Chainsaws that they almost always need Adjustment after a break-in period to get better overall performance. The knowledge you share makes things much easier to understand and correct! Thank you!
this video is without a doubt the best carb tuning vid out there easy to understand special note to anyone reading this comment the instructions on adj high jet till it 4 strokes when pulled out of cut is key here thats what i could never get right until now so now im not afraid of making it to lean thank you very much great vid
Good video. There are a couple things I'd add. The last thing you should tune is the H needle. WOT is a combination of the fuel from both the L and the H needles. What you do to the L has an affect on WOT tuning. Also, tuning is most likely to change when you re-install the filter cover. It'll probably be richer with the cover installed. The struggle is real in getting on those needles though, lol :)
Agree that he needed to recheck the high jet after adjusting the low, and I agree about the change after reinstalling the cover, if the cover restricts enough air flow. He probably could hear that the H was still good though. You also have a very good grasp of 2 stroke carb. adj..
Rewatching this one again for the 5th or 6th time, the explanation and demonstration is excellent, particularly when you realize this was an opportunistic, off-the-cuff video Tinman shot while out sawing rather than a planned video with all the equipment and done in the shop. Why am I watching this again? I was trying to sort out my neighbor's early Husqvarna 55 yesterday evening for him. Someone had truly buggered up just about everything you could do to the saw, then "gifted" it to him when it was so out of tune, it wouldn't even start. So after stripping it down, cleaning it all out, testing for spark, fixing the spectacularly buggered chain brake, greasing the needle bearings, bar, etc. we finally put it back together, dropped some fuel in it, and got it to run. I went though all the steps I had written down (so I don't go cowboy on it myself), and the saw just ran beautifully. I was a bit suspicious on the idle setting since it took a total of 4 turns to get it to slow down to where the chain wasn't trying to engage, and it idled smoothly for 4 minutes, but woke right up at the touch of the throttle. I even got it to do the 4-stroke out of the wood (tach was reading the free speed at about 10800rpm), but clean when in the wood setting, and we sawed a few smaller white ash logs to confirm it ran consistently. BUT...we shut it off, and put it down for 3 minutes. When we went to restart it, my tack was clocking the idle speed at 4300-4400rpm, and the saw would NOT settle back down! WAY too fast. So I went back to square 1 and turned everything back in, and back out to re-establish a base starting point again. Nope, Idle on start instantly jumps to 4300-4400, and the saw will actually cut. Nothing I did made any difference except on the top end, so at 1am, we rang the bell and ended the round, calling it a night. Same thing on round 2 when I worked on it today. The plug is not looking lean at all and throttling up from the sdoopit-high idle is snappy and torquey in the wood. That sort of points me away from air leaks in my mind, but I did a check anyhow, to the best of my amateur tinkerer ability. I'm not sure what it might be or what the next step to take is (other than loaning him one of my saws until I can get this figured out). Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcome!
If it were me at this point I would check for air leaks in the filter system, a bad carburetor gasket, or cracked fuel line. Any of those can cause problems with the air fuel mixture and it can be intermittent making it tough to troubleshoot.
This is Definetly the BEST VIDEO I HAVE SEEN ON TUNING A CARB ! Only thing you might have to do is remove the limiter caps on the carb if they have them and your limited on the adjustments.
Excellent instructions!!! In a nutshell your saw is better off on the rich side. Too lean equals burned up saw. Thanks for sharing your experience Tinman!
I moved into a home with a wood stove and I just found a new fascination with saws. Repairing them, just for fun. I own a homelite 240, old school saw that absolutely rips! So cool to have found your channel. Thanks for sharing and definitely learning from you.
When I started using saws, I was used to tuning motorcycle carbs so tuned it until it had no four stroke on top because I thought it made the saw run smoother. Only recently I learnt that you need to rich it a little bit and have that four stroke so you won't burn your saws. I'm tuning it better nowadays because of videos like yours and thankfully I haven't burnt any saws all those times I did it wrongly because I never used them heavily
You are what we want to see. Honesty, Humble and very educational keep them coming Tinman looking forward to the next video...Stay Safe Stay Healthy!❤️
I saved this because I knew it was going to be needed! Then boom an old bad running 029 finds its way into my life. Holy crap your spot on with this. Totally worked out and I got a saw that runs pretty good! Do in a not so short way of saying………thanks you made my day. I appreciate your info. Hope your day was as good as mine today!!!!!!!!
Excellent how to video. Altitude plays a big role too, for example I live at 2400 ft but I do most of my cutting at 6200ft so my saw runs very rich at my house but its spot on when I'm on the mountain. Thanks for making this video.
Thanks Tinman! I was messing around with my ported 372 today and something just wasn’t right with it. Now I can at least sorta know what I’m doing and what to look for so I don’t hurt the saw! You’re awesome buddy!
I'm new to chainsaws and what i like about your video is that the process is straightforward and understandable, adjusting and allowing us to hear the sounds understand what the adjustment is actually doing. I have a carb adjustment toolkit coming in and i'll give it a try and try and get things dialed in well enough. I only do a few tree's a year and low jet is likely a bit rich as it is idling a bit low with stalling at times, and some stumbling/hesitation on pulling the trigger. I'll try leaning it out (1/8 to 1/4 turn clockwise) till i find that sweet spot. Update: Tool set came in and adjusted it in just a few minutes, was the low jet (L) as i thought from watching your video. I turned the L screw all the way clockwise, then set it 1.5 turns counterclockwise open. From there toggle the screw 1/8 to 1/4 turn each direction and found 1/8 clockwise (lean) from the initial setup was perfect. Chainsaw no longer stalls or bogs down on initial trigger pull, and an added bonus it starts on second pull of the starter rope whereas prior it took 10-12 pulls and then would idle poorly and stall. Appreciate Tinman for giving me the knowledge and confidence to take on this task, saves me time and money as i don't have to take it in for adjustment and with the toolset (specialty screwdriver bits, Amazon, $24) i can adjust my chainsaw from time to time as the temperature and barometric pressure changes. My chainsaw took a PACMAN bit as like many small equipment carburetors today they do not use a standard bit to ensure people do not adjust their own equipment due to pollution mandates. So if you have a newer chainsaw you might have to purchase a 2 cycle carb adjustment tool set, Amazon is awesome for that and a 10 bit set is $24.
Very good instructions and explanations. I have always set my 2 strokes by the sound, but never checking for the sound of "4 stroking" when the load is removed and added.
I'm sure someone else actually explained four stroking but your explanation is the first that I remember. That's what I know...that's how I do it...works for me. Excellent.
The absolute best video on tuning a chainsaw thank you so much for sharing your wisdom also just wanted to mention a reason that the Saw may run fast is because of the throttle lever getting stuck mine was pinned open stuck and it was really scary trying to tune my chainsaw got it figured out but man what a wrench thrown into that process
Bro you have made the best tuning video I’ve ever seen, you gave great instruction and explanations of what you were doing were perfect! Furthermore I’ve never heard anyone else explained 4stroking and I absolutely loved your trick to hear it when lifting from the wood…made it very obvious and easy to hear! I’m amazed how much better your video is then rest, DAMN GOOD VIDEO BRO!!!!
Excellent tutorial. Used to fall trees for a living many moons ago with a Husky 480 and Husky 385 on the east foothills of the Rockies. Looks like you have a good handle on carb tuning. Couple of tidbits which I know you're aware of is a clean air filter is imperative and a broken spring in your clutch will cause the chain to run on.
I've learned a lot by watching your videos, this subject was really helpful. I love running chainsaw and I love the history behind them. I always like to learn more, thank you for taking the time to post this and share your knowledge. You're a great teacher, thanks Tinman
Awesome video Tinman!! Im getting my first ported saw and I've never really messed with turning the carb on my stock saw, just kinda ran it where it was set from the factory. This is exactly what I needed to help me understand how it all works, great explanations. Thanks for sharing, take care-TC
I’m just putting a new top end on my much loved 1995 Sthil 026. I’m guessing that I ran the saw too lean and the piston looked as though it had partially seized at some point. Anyway it was becoming a pig to re-start hot anyway so I’m guessing it may also be ready for it’s first set of crank seals. Fantastic video, many thanks, I’m definitely going to run slightly rich from now on!
Tinman THANK YOU!! Litterally helped me determine that my stihl ms290 has an air leak. Never new why sometimes it didn't want to idle and the chain would keep spinning. Guess it's time to redo some seals. And probably remove the base gasket too
I'm doing crank bearings and seals on a echo cs8000 at the moment. My advice after making a mistake with a seal is to order 2 of each crank seal if your repair is time sensitive. It's so easy to mess up a seal which completely stops the build. Super easy to over drive a seal as well especially if the seal gets a little crooked at the start. Good luck!
Excellent and you covered all the theories perfectly. I run ALL MY SAWS a bit RICH just like you here to keep them from burning a hole in the piston. I like how you show how it works in wood and how to test your settings. I was taught by a Logger back in the '70's and I've never burned a piston and still have that first Homelite XL550 from those days and it still runs...NO SAFETY FEATURES what so ever so I don't use it but it still runs.
Excellent demonstrastion! I just unboxed an Echo 7310P a couple of days ago first run yesterday on a giant red oak with very sound wood. Even with the 32" bar fully buried and aggressise chain, it 4-stroked. Echo says not to re-tune until broken in. But, next job is with somewhat smaller ash with 24" bar, it will "burble" all over the place if I do not lean it out some. It has limiters, so it may not lean out "idealy"; but like you say, a bit righ is way safer than a bit too lean.
You just made it look so easy. Once again you have showed us that it’s not really hard to get the saw running properly. Thank you sir sure glad I found your channel 👍
Been looking for a video like this for some time now. I appreciate the description of 4-stroking as well as the demo on how to actually adjust the carb. My saw is bogging on the throttle and needs attention.
Great demo Tinman. Like you said not all saws are the same but 1 1/4 out is always a good baseline to tune it your way. Elevation, temperature, mix used, if the saw is warmed up or not, what saw your using etc. Lot of factors. I have seen all kinds of crazy settings from 3/4 out to up to 3 turns out to make them start/run right.
And broken in... a lot of people try to dick around with the carb settings on a brand new saw because it's down on power or running a little funny on the first couple tanks of gas.
@@Gideon_Judges6 I have a ported, timing advanced and muffler modded Echo CS355T that's only on its second full tank of gas that I might have to adjust because it's getting colder out now.
Excellent and clear demonstration. I can honestly say that I was mostly in the dark tuning my high jet, before your vids. I had a tach to go by. I don't use it anymore. I listen for the high end gurgle.
Woooooow! That was fantastic! You explained carb tuning perfectly for me to understand, thank you. I enjoyed seeing the snow on the ground probably more than you did, but that's just me. Thanks Tinman and you take 'er easy too. Oh and be safe.
I bought a cheap tach to check and my rpm was 12,800 at my ear-tuned setting. When I had to bury the bar cutting big stumps I dialed it down to just under 11,000. This did require cutting off the limiter tabs on my carb (Walbro HDA 144). Its a '98 Husky 261, 16" bar.
Awesome video. I'm just getting into chainsaws and to have you explain what each setting sounds like is huge (since I have no idea haha). Thanks so much Tinman!
Tinman, you are an awsome 'splainer! You would make an awesome industrial arts (shop) teacher. But I guess that is exactly what you are doing with your youtube videos. I thank you very much!
Tinman- I just asked this question on one of your other video’s comments- I went back and found this video and I think you answered my question… How cool is That?!! My MS251c is making a “bap-bap-bap…” thing on full throttle… I’m not 100% sure it’s the same as what you call 4-stroking, but it could be. I’m going to try leaning her out just a hair on the highs. Thanks a $Mil.
Thanks Tinman. Just what I was looking for. I'm using this info to get the best out of my new saws, an Echo CS620PW 27" and a Holzfforma G660 PRO 36". I'm very impressed with it.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm glad I started watching some of your older videos. This one is a gem for us newbies.
I heat with wood and everything I know about chainsaws I’ve learned on TH-cam. I think I’ve watched nearly every TH-cam on carb adjustments. This is hands down the best video by far! You are an excellent teacher! Thank you!
I guess Im randomly asking but does any of you know a tool to get back into an instagram account??
I stupidly lost my account password. I would love any tips you can offer me.
@Krew Crosby Instablaster :)
@Augustine Huxley i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Augustine Huxley it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my ass !
@Krew Crosby Happy to help :D
Right on- NOW I GET 4 stroking !!!! Your cutting & stop cutting plus 4 stroke was very instructional to my ear. Thx Tinman.
I HAVE BEEN TINMANIZED!!! PLEASE TURN OFF YOUR TV's AND TURN ON TINMAN'S INSPIRATIONAL TUTORIAL VIDEOS. JUST AN AMAZING AMOUNT OF VALUABLE detailed INFORMATION IN EVERY VIDEO. WHAT A FREE EDUCATION WE ARE RESEAVING!!!
Recently got into power saws as we heat our home with wood. I knew nothing until I watched Tinnman. Now, i have confidence to adjust, work on, & mod my saw. Thank you for your sharing ypur knowledge and producing quality content.
Any one that thumbs down this video should watch it over . He knows his saws.
This is the exact way to tune a carb. I was taught the same way back in 1979. Been working for me since then and for my Dad decades before that.
You can feel when it’s right when you’re in the cut, also the sound tells you. Great job Tinman!
those that show thumbs down are toodies, and can just go chew rubber.
Must be all the Steve's small engine saloon fans lol
This is the best practical demonstation and explanation of how and why to make carburettor adjustments. So many others have failed at describing it, but you nailed it. Well done!
Thank you
Yeah. What I need to know is what sounds/actions the saw is doing that I’m supposed to go “oh, I need to tune this”.
I love watching Tinman's videos over and over again. So much detailed information, just amazing. What a humble man. Great educator and very articulate in his explanations!!!
I been tuning saws for 45 years but I have never seen such a good explanation of what you are trying to do what a help for people just getting in to saws this is the gold standard for saw tuning this is going help alot of people Thank you next can you take the next step and show what the plug looks like if you get your jets right and your favorite oil mix
I've re-watched this video about 6 times now. Big help regularly. Thanks, Mr. Tin Man!
Thanks Tinman.
That's the best tutorial on carb tuning I've seen.
One of the best instructional videos I’ve ever seen on TH-cam. Thanks buddy.
You're welcome
Great video! I've hear about you from many videos from Bucking Billy Ray! I follow him a lot. Most greatful on you showing us this video SIR!
By far the best carb tuning video I have watched!
THE BEST video on tuning a chainsaw. I have watched multiple videos, and this by far has been the most helpful, especially at EXPLAINING 4-stroking!!! Thank you Sir!!!
Hello tinman from Ireland, best carb tuning video to date on TH-cam 👍👍
Greetings from wlcklow
Probably the best video on adjusting the carb on a chainsaw!
This is the very BEST tuning tutorial I've ever seen Tinman. You're very experienced but humble, and have a great gift for clearly explaining things. I really enjoyed this video. It deserves 30 times the views.
Thankyou
Fantastic commentary. Great vids. Just getting into porting and your videos have helped a lot. Many thanks , Darren from New Zealand
What a great video. I grew up with wood heat and have heated with wood primarily my entire life (70 years) and still do, so obviously I have had thousands of hours with a chainsaw in my hands. I currently have 6 or 7 saws, from 6.5 HP Neo Tec NS 8105 with 36" bar all the way down to 14" trim saws, various brands. I still learned some things here. I was having a little trouble adjusting the carb on my ECHO CS 310 yesterday and I got it running much better, but I didn't know you should adjust for when it is under load and a little blubber is good when not under load. Makes prefect sense and you demonstrated it perfectly. Liked and subscribed. Great job sir. Thank you.
Thank GOD for you making this video. I thought I had my Husky 268XP tuned too rich but I’m gonna leave it where it is and just adjust my idle. LOVE THE CONTENT!!!!!!!!
I've never seen anyone explain what a saw should be doing in and out of the cut for the high side. Clears SO much up in this video. Thanks man!
My main man! Changed my life with this number.
You made a subscriber outta me. The best carb tuning vid I've seen yet
This is one of the best carb tuning explanations I’ve seen! Thanks Tinman!
Timing I have started working on 2 strokes bout 4 years ago after I had a stroke and couldn't keep up the pace in a large autobody shop . I have listened to all the big saw guys out there bout carb tuning, Iron horse,Bellhopper,Buckin Billy Ray, Steve's Saloon, Fleet Command. It has never been simplified and step by step as you have explained it so thoroughly as you have. I've just started to get into the porting stages of my career and I'm so glad I ran across your channel. I will be enjoying your videos and your library for a long time. This is Byron and I thank you.
YOU SIR, do it the exact same way i was taught over 50 years ago! This method has NEVER failed me! Thank you for this video. It will help MANY people!
Well, I cut about 20 cords a year...i do my own maintenance and tuning...I follow the specs for every chainsaw...And i use a tachometer...But you can watch all the vids you want on tuning and its never seems to work....even with a tachometer i do a log test...And every time my high is off...So on my log test i adjust the high while the chainsaw is in action and has a load on it....And this guy is doing it all right....one of the best vids iv seen so far...though i do my adjustment while cutting to get the best performance..this guy pretty much does the same thing..its the best way...great vid
I have needed this for a while now with some big boy saws. They keep running funny from time with different bars, woods, temps, etc. excellent video. I am going to watch it again and again. thx brother.
Another great video to refer back to! Thanks for taking us along!👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
Very much appreciated finding this video. You are the first(I have found) that actually not only explained 4-Stroking, but took the time to Present the Chainsaw under the condition.
I've become comfortable with Tweaking the Carburetors on my saws to find good response and decent top RPM - and I always back off a little to avoid Lean running, but I never knew the saw would tell me where it is happiest.
My tweaking experience comes from mostly picking up used Saws Cheap, that almost always have fuel line/Carburetor issues.
I have found, as I purchase new (Less Expensive) Chainsaws that they almost always need Adjustment after a break-in period to get better overall performance.
The knowledge you share makes things much easier to understand and correct!
Thank you!
One of the best "How to set your carburetor"explanations.
Great Job Man!!
this video is without a doubt the best carb tuning vid out there easy to understand special note to anyone reading this comment the instructions on adj high jet till it 4 strokes when pulled out of cut is key here thats what i could never get right until now so now im not afraid of making it to lean thank you very much great vid
I' at 0:01 my favorite video of all time thank you
Good video. There are a couple things I'd add. The last thing you should tune is the H needle. WOT is a combination of the fuel from both the L and the H needles. What you do to the L has an affect on WOT tuning. Also, tuning is most likely to change when you re-install the filter cover. It'll probably be richer with the cover installed. The struggle is real in getting on those needles though, lol :)
Agree that he needed to recheck the high jet after adjusting the low, and I agree about the change after reinstalling the cover, if the cover restricts enough air flow. He probably could hear that the H was still good though. You also have a very good grasp of 2 stroke carb. adj..
Thanks
Thanks Tinman! This is the clearest and easiest way I've seen to tune a saw.
Rewatching this one again for the 5th or 6th time, the explanation and demonstration is excellent, particularly when you realize this was an opportunistic, off-the-cuff video Tinman shot while out sawing rather than a planned video with all the equipment and done in the shop. Why am I watching this again? I was trying to sort out my neighbor's early Husqvarna 55 yesterday evening for him. Someone had truly buggered up just about everything you could do to the saw, then "gifted" it to him when it was so out of tune, it wouldn't even start. So after stripping it down, cleaning it all out, testing for spark, fixing the spectacularly buggered chain brake, greasing the needle bearings, bar, etc. we finally put it back together, dropped some fuel in it, and got it to run. I went though all the steps I had written down (so I don't go cowboy on it myself), and the saw just ran beautifully. I was a bit suspicious on the idle setting since it took a total of 4 turns to get it to slow down to where the chain wasn't trying to engage, and it idled smoothly for 4 minutes, but woke right up at the touch of the throttle. I even got it to do the 4-stroke out of the wood (tach was reading the free speed at about 10800rpm), but clean when in the wood setting, and we sawed a few smaller white ash logs to confirm it ran consistently. BUT...we shut it off, and put it down for 3 minutes. When we went to restart it, my tack was clocking the idle speed at 4300-4400rpm, and the saw would NOT settle back down! WAY too fast. So I went back to square 1 and turned everything back in, and back out to re-establish a base starting point again. Nope, Idle on start instantly jumps to 4300-4400, and the saw will actually cut. Nothing I did made any difference except on the top end, so at 1am, we rang the bell and ended the round, calling it a night. Same thing on round 2 when I worked on it today. The plug is not looking lean at all and throttling up from the sdoopit-high idle is snappy and torquey in the wood. That sort of points me away from air leaks in my mind, but I did a check anyhow, to the best of my amateur tinkerer ability. I'm not sure what it might be or what the next step to take is (other than loaning him one of my saws until I can get this figured out). Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcome!
If it were me at this point I would check for air leaks in the filter system, a bad carburetor gasket, or cracked fuel line. Any of those can cause problems with the air fuel mixture and it can be intermittent making it tough to troubleshoot.
Now that I am further into the the video I see that he mentioned air leaks too. Lol.
This is Definetly the BEST VIDEO I HAVE SEEN ON TUNING A CARB ! Only thing you might have to do is remove the limiter caps on the carb if they have them and your limited on the adjustments.
You over explained the process! I will have to watch it from the beginning and slow it down to understand! Thank You for the info!
Just saved me a trip to the saw shop. Video was perfect for my bogging out saw. Thank You!
Great video Tinman!! I have always struggled with getting them tuned correctly!! Thanks brother!! Much love from my family to yours!!
Excellent instructions!!! In a nutshell your saw is better off on the rich side. Too lean equals burned up saw. Thanks for sharing your experience Tinman!
I moved into a home with a wood stove and I just found a new fascination with saws. Repairing them, just for fun. I own a homelite 240, old school saw that absolutely rips! So cool to have found your channel. Thanks for sharing and definitely learning from you.
Hey Freddy welcone to my channel!!
@@tinmanssaws
Thank you Tinman, Happy Thanksgiving and let's get your channel out there so more subscribers can enjoy your content.
@@tinmanssaws oil mix 1:40 ?
When I started using saws, I was used to tuning motorcycle carbs so tuned it until it had no four stroke on top because I thought it made the saw run smoother. Only recently I learnt that you need to rich it a little bit and have that four stroke so you won't burn your saws. I'm tuning it better nowadays because of videos like yours and thankfully I haven't burnt any saws all those times I did it wrongly because I never used them heavily
You are what we want to see. Honesty, Humble and very educational keep them coming Tinman looking forward to the next video...Stay Safe Stay Healthy!❤️
I saved this because I knew it was going to be needed! Then boom an old bad running 029 finds its way into my life. Holy crap your spot on with this. Totally worked out and I got a saw that runs pretty good! Do in a not so short way of saying………thanks you made my day. I appreciate your info. Hope your day was as good as mine today!!!!!!!!
Excellent how to video. Altitude plays a big role too, for example I live at 2400 ft but I do most of my cutting at 6200ft so my saw runs very rich at my house but its spot on when I'm on the mountain. Thanks for making this video.
Should be the opposite, the higher the elevation the leaner you need it because the air is thinner.
Thanks Tinman! I was messing around with my ported 372 today and something just wasn’t right with it. Now I can at least sorta know what I’m doing and what to look for so I don’t hurt the saw! You’re awesome buddy!
Great video Tinman. Learned alot. Like the example of pulling the saw up while in the wood to hear it 4 stroke. Thanks!
I'm new to chainsaws and what i like about your video is that the process is straightforward and understandable, adjusting and allowing us to hear the sounds understand what the adjustment is actually doing. I have a carb adjustment toolkit coming in and i'll give it a try and try and get things dialed in well enough. I only do a few tree's a year and low jet is likely a bit rich as it is idling a bit low with stalling at times, and some stumbling/hesitation on pulling the trigger. I'll try leaning it out (1/8 to 1/4 turn clockwise) till i find that sweet spot.
Update: Tool set came in and adjusted it in just a few minutes, was the low jet (L) as i thought from watching your video. I turned the L screw all the way clockwise, then set it 1.5 turns counterclockwise open. From there toggle the screw 1/8 to 1/4 turn each direction and found 1/8 clockwise (lean) from the initial setup was perfect. Chainsaw no longer stalls or bogs down on initial trigger pull, and an added bonus it starts on second pull of the starter rope whereas prior it took 10-12 pulls and then would idle poorly and stall.
Appreciate Tinman for giving me the knowledge and confidence to take on this task, saves me time and money as i don't have to take it in for adjustment and with the toolset (specialty screwdriver bits, Amazon, $24) i can adjust my chainsaw from time to time as the temperature and barometric pressure changes. My chainsaw took a PACMAN bit as like many small equipment carburetors today they do not use a standard bit to ensure people do not adjust their own equipment due to pollution mandates. So if you have a newer chainsaw you might have to purchase a 2 cycle carb adjustment tool set, Amazon is awesome for that and a 10 bit set is $24.
Best description I’ve ever heard. Thank you sir!
Very good instructions and explanations. I have always set my 2 strokes by the sound, but never checking for the sound of "4 stroking" when the load is removed and added.
This is very well explained and I will likely come back to this a few times. I never even thought about tuning for various species of wood.
I'm sure someone else actually explained four stroking but your explanation is the first that I remember. That's what I know...that's how I do it...works for me. Excellent.
The absolute best video on tuning a chainsaw thank you so much for sharing your wisdom also just wanted to mention a reason that the Saw may run fast is because of the throttle lever getting stuck mine was pinned open stuck and it was really scary trying to tune my chainsaw got it figured out but man what a wrench thrown into that process
Bro you have made the best tuning video I’ve ever seen, you gave great instruction and explanations of what you were doing were perfect! Furthermore I’ve never heard anyone else explained 4stroking and I absolutely loved your trick to hear it when lifting from the wood…made it very obvious and easy to hear! I’m amazed how much better your video is then rest, DAMN GOOD VIDEO BRO!!!!
Thank you Tinman! You changed my life with that video. My chainsaw is so more efficient, I can’t believe it! Cheers.
Nice job when I hear saws running I'm saying to myself that's running rough so many people dont know how to set a saw up.
Wow! Best video on tuning a chainsaw I have seen yet!
Great explanation. The low jet loading up problem is something that I’ve been doing wrong. Thanks for the info.
Iv been doing the same thing
Excellent tutorial. Used to fall trees for a living many moons ago with a Husky 480 and Husky 385 on the east foothills of the Rockies. Looks like you have a good handle on carb tuning. Couple of tidbits which I know you're aware of is a clean air filter is imperative and a broken spring in your clutch will cause the chain to run on.
This, along with the rest of your videos, is the best I've seen on the topic.
I've learned a lot by watching your videos, this subject was really helpful. I love running chainsaw and I love the history behind them. I always like to learn more, thank you for taking the time to post this and share your knowledge. You're a great teacher, thanks Tinman
Awesome video Tinman!! Im getting my first ported saw and I've never really messed with turning the carb on my stock saw, just kinda ran it where it was set from the factory. This is exactly what I needed to help me understand how it all works, great explanations. Thanks for sharing, take care-TC
Great video tinman!! I've explained this countless times to people who have had the same question. You explained it perfectly. Be good bro 💪
That means a lot comin from a real rootin tootin logger!! Thanks buddy!!
@@tinmanssaws Friend, it is enough to subtract 300 max revolutions from the specification and it will growl like a bitch in heat :)
Great Job, Tinman! Great video. The 4-stroking demonstration was the best I've seen. Keep up the good work!
Very good video , couldn't have been more instructive and easy to follow, well done thanks.
That was a cracking explanation. Thanks very much. I'll be oot tomorrow making sure my 357xp and 365x torq are 4 stroking out of the cut.
I’m just putting a new top end on my much loved 1995 Sthil 026. I’m guessing that I ran the saw too lean and the piston looked as though it had partially seized at some point. Anyway it was becoming a pig to re-start hot anyway so I’m guessing it may also be ready for it’s first set of crank seals.
Fantastic video, many thanks, I’m definitely going to run slightly rich from now on!
Tinman THANK YOU!! Litterally helped me determine that my stihl ms290 has an air leak.
Never new why sometimes it didn't want to idle and the chain would keep spinning. Guess it's time to redo some seals. And probably remove the base gasket too
I'm doing crank bearings and seals on a echo cs8000 at the moment. My advice after making a mistake with a seal is to order 2 of each crank seal if your repair is time sensitive. It's so easy to mess up a seal which completely stops the build. Super easy to over drive a seal as well especially if the seal gets a little crooked at the start. Good luck!
Excellent and you covered all the theories perfectly. I run ALL MY SAWS a bit RICH just like you here to keep them from burning a hole in the piston.
I like how you show how it works in wood and how to test your settings. I was taught by a Logger back in the '70's and I've never burned a piston and still have that first Homelite XL550 from those days and it still runs...NO SAFETY FEATURES what so ever so I don't use it but it still runs.
I literally just was out and tuned my super xl and your spot on brother fantastic video
Excellent demonstrastion! I just unboxed an Echo 7310P a couple of days ago first run yesterday on a giant red oak with very sound wood. Even with the 32" bar fully buried and aggressise chain, it 4-stroked. Echo says not to re-tune until broken in. But, next job is with somewhat smaller ash with 24" bar, it will "burble" all over the place if I do not lean it out some. It has limiters, so it may not lean out "idealy"; but like you say, a bit righ is way safer than a bit too lean.
Great explanation. Helped me understand what’s going on so much better.
You just made it look so easy. Once again you have showed us that it’s not really hard to get the saw running properly. Thank you sir sure glad I found your channel 👍
Thanks so much! You explained that very well! I get very close, but you just put the icing on the cake! Have a blessed day!
Hey Tinman
I just watched your vid. Learned a ton in the last 27 minutes.
Thank you....
Been looking for a video like this for some time now. I appreciate the description of 4-stroking as well as the demo on how to actually adjust the carb. My saw is bogging on the throttle and needs attention.
Hey Tinman you just got a new sub and a thumbs up 👍 Thanks for the great info!
Great demo Tinman. Like you said not all saws are the same but 1 1/4 out is always a good baseline to tune it your way. Elevation, temperature, mix used, if the saw is warmed up or not, what saw your using etc. Lot of factors. I have seen all kinds of crazy settings from 3/4 out to up to 3 turns out to make them start/run right.
It's also important to have the saw warmed up fully first too.
And broken in... a lot of people try to dick around with the carb settings on a brand new saw because it's down on power or running a little funny on the first couple tanks of gas.
@@Gideon_Judges6 I have a ported, timing advanced and muffler modded Echo CS355T that's only on its second full tank of gas that I might have to adjust because it's getting colder out now.
Excellent and clear demonstration. I can honestly say that I was mostly in the dark tuning my high jet, before your vids. I had a tach to go by. I don't use it anymore. I listen for the high end gurgle.
I watched this vid last night and was able to dial in my new carb on my Husqvarna chainsaw. Thanks so much!
Woooooow! That was fantastic! You explained carb tuning perfectly for me to understand, thank you. I enjoyed seeing the snow on the ground probably more than you did, but that's just me. Thanks Tinman and you take 'er easy too. Oh and be safe.
Extremely excited that you showed us this video and information, I got it now and I’m excited about it 😊❤
Fantastic Video Tinman, great job explaining everything and the results of each adjustment !! 😊
I bought a cheap tach to check and my rpm was 12,800 at my ear-tuned setting. When I had to bury the bar cutting big stumps I dialed it down to just under 11,000. This did require cutting off the limiter tabs on my carb (Walbro HDA 144). Its a '98 Husky 261, 16" bar.
Love this video.But I really love how that saw runs!!sound so right. Thanks for the demo on a great saw.
Awesome video. I'm just getting into chainsaws and to have you explain what each setting sounds like is huge (since I have no idea haha). Thanks so much Tinman!
Cheers Tinman, I love the sound of a well tuned Husqvarna😊
Tinman, you are an awsome 'splainer! You would make an awesome industrial arts (shop) teacher. But I guess that is exactly what you are doing with your youtube videos. I thank you very much!
Very informative! Thank you for making this video! I have been having trouble with my saws! Can’t wait to try tuning them tomorrow!
Best straight forward explanation i have seen on chainsaw tuning. Thank you
Thank you - I am struggling with my saw and this answered many questions 👍
A very good lesson, that was far better than many other people show you. Thank you.😀👌
Really well explained thanks. Other than actually doing the adjustment for me, that's as good as a video of this topic could ever be.
Tinman- I just asked this question on one of your other video’s comments- I went back and found this video and I think you answered my question… How cool is That?!! My MS251c is making a “bap-bap-bap…” thing on full throttle… I’m not 100% sure it’s the same as what you call 4-stroking, but it could be. I’m going to try leaning her out just a hair on the highs. Thanks a $Mil.
-And guess what… I just leaned it out exactly 1/4 turn on the High, and She SCREAMS!!! Thank you! And keep up the great work 👍
Excellent explanation Tinman. Thank you for taking the time to explain 👍
Thank you so much Tinman, that really helps me understand so much more. Thank you again mate.
Thanks Tinman. Just what I was looking for. I'm using this info to get the best out of my new saws, an Echo CS620PW 27" and a Holzfforma G660 PRO 36". I'm very impressed with it.