✅Need The proper tool? Check out this chainsaw wrench ➜ amzn.to/2iMUIIf For more videos like this, check out: 👉Top 5 Reasons A Chainsaw Won't Start ➜ th-cam.com/video/5Qit2CZFw6M/w-d-xo.html 👉Correct Way To Sharpen A Chainsaw ➜ th-cam.com/video/-GIxowey6IQ/w-d-xo.html 👉Repair A Chainsaw That Cuts Crooked ➜ th-cam.com/video/AgCZxee2NPA/w-d-xo.html 👉Fix A ChainSaw If It Won't Oil The Bar And Chain ➜ th-cam.com/video/6zscOSrFQjA/w-d-xo.html You can connect with Steve here too: ✅Visit Steve’s WEBSITE ➜ www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/ ✅Visit Steve’s PARTS & TOOL STORE ➜ www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon ✅Follow Steve on FACEBOOK ➜ facebook.com/stevessmallenginesaloon ✅Follow Steve on INSTAGRAM ➜ instagram.com/stevessmallenginesaloon/ ✅Follow Steve on TWITTER ➜ twitter.com/SteveSaloon ✋Heads up guys, I did say a quick thing at about 1:55 that is not what I meant! The chain actually is not spinning at 12,000 RPM just because the engine is. But my point is still valid....👍
No shitty music, brand new saw or pointless waffle. Here is a guy that knows what he is talking about, concise & informative. Thank you sir, I think I shall sub. 👍
I'm a firefighter on a truck company in a major US city and we use Stihl saws for cutting ventilation holes in all types of roofs. Your video was fantastic. I'll definitely be using these tips and advice going forward. As someone who expects his saw to save lives, having your equipment set up properly can be a matter of life and death. Kudos!
@@Slippindisc Maybe on a pretty intact roof with little time to play/train/whatever. But if it’s gettin it and you’re going hard offensive to get ahead, occupants trapped… guys inside who’re gettin pressed down…that kind of fire, then it’s the least thing I cared about. I just wanted to safely get off the roof and provide the best environment I could for everyone inside workin in the dark.
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon I'd say that's a tad tight ! I'd be looking for a tiny bit of slack - no more than 1mm (I don't know what that is in imperial even though I'm imperial ! 1/16" ??
Yeah, it’s why I subbed the moment I found this channel. For once, somebody who doesn’t waste time with lots of unimportant information and also presents things clearly, and in a rational order. I learn more from these videos than I do from hours of others.
Great tip thanks. I'm a British immigrant to Canada and been a Canadian citizen for over 40 years. Now that I have a chain saw I finally feel like a real Canadian!! Thanks ! 🙏
Hey man, I am not sure if you will see this since the video is nearly 6 years old now. However, I recently purchased a STHIL Chainsaw myself. This video helped me, as a first time young homeowner. I appreciate the fact there is no bullshit into, no "before we get into this, here's a thanks to my sponsors", or any other crap. Just straightforward and to the point. When I have a little extra money, I will be purchasing some stickers, coffee cup, and other items from your store as a thank you.
Helped me huge as well. I couldn’t figure out why the new chain was not cutting well before I learned you need to pull the tip of the bar up when adjusting. Good to go now. Thank you
You want to tension the chain until it gets stiff to move on the bar freely then back it off .. yes chain needs to "snap" back into the bar at all times..
Another good talk. All of yours are. When a marginally skilled person (me) never has any coworkers or cohorts, doing the same tasks, to talk to, it’s a little or a lot dangerous. No on-going learning takes place other than one’s own accidents or near misses. So this lone eagle develops bad habits or just plain underperforms. I’ve seen this a number of times while coming in contact with firms who decide to have one person do a task that nobody else in the whole company does. That worker has nobody to say “oh man, I had a close call today don’t do what I did” or “hey, Bub, let me show you something”. I find some show hosts, such as you, fill this sort of gap where I’m an amateur. So, thx a bunch being here with me.
I'm a new homeowner. Just moved in from years of living in an apartment in the city. Needless to say we don't use many small engine tools. So I'm an enthusiastic learner with no complexes. And you are by far one of the clearest and most enjoyable teachers I've watched. Thanks a bunch.
I appreciate people who can go in depth technically but keep their teaching engaging and interesting. From a self-described expert in the tree industry, I still watch or listen all the way through. You never know when someone is going to be able to challenge your mastery. The only time it might be acceptable to stop learning is after death, but I can't guarantee that either.
yer you're onto it, been doing that since i bin cutting firewood started around 1980, one tip....shove a block or piece of wood under the tip, or in the field rest the tip on a small branch on the ground so the chainsaw is resting on the back of the handle and the tip. this ensures the bar is pushed up hard and you can concentrate on tensioning the chain and tightening the nuts. i have my bar oil cranked up to the max, you can have the chain with some tension on it because in operation when a large amount of heat is generated the chain will lengthen and the xtra tension will back off very quickly to ideal, also never tension a hot bar and leave it cool down, when the chain shrinks it can over stress the crankshaft, try to always set your tension just before you start cutting. my sthil was an 042 for 25yrs, bought an ms 361 back round 07. having said all that your vids are good steve, practical knowledge with no bullshit. regards...
Thanks for that tip. Makes sense from what Steve explained too. I’ve had 4 dudes on my chainsaws and not one of my machines are fully functional anymore.... except the Husqvarna now that I took it in to Sthil repair place and they had to replace bar, chain and secure the handle for me! They gave me a small tutorial as well. No more dudes on my equipment because of people like you and Steve and a lot of “but why?”, instead of sticking my head in the sand after my late husband’s fatal accident, I tcb myself.
@@nevada8462 _"I’ve had 4 dudes on my chainsaws and not one of my machines are fully functional anymore..."_ Reminds me of all the different 'professionals' that cleaned my boiler. All of them improperly adjusted the igniter electrode. I would always hear fuel spraying before it finally ignited then 'woomp!' I watched them a few times then read the owners manual and bought a vernier caliper and adjusted the electrode gap myself. Ignition was instant.
As a more or less happy homeowner for 45 years in 24 acres of woods, I had figured this out over a number of years and chainsaws. Wish I had this video in the back then days. Thanks for passing on the word in your usual excellent style.
There are a lot of guys from Ork that make chainsaw videos. Many of them I want to ask WHY? This is the BEST explanation of chain tightening I have ever seen on the Web. Tip: a little piece if 2x4 can be used to hold that tip up, so you can use both hands to adjust chain tension and tighten the nuts. If you have a stump vice, that makes a good bi-pod for the tip of the bar... like on a rifle. Notice his terminology. It is all correct. (There is NO "blade" on a chainsaw, for example.) READ your saw manual. It's there to help you.
As a homeowner and builder who occasionally helps clearing some of the lots that I build on, this video is helpful to me. Not pulling up on the end of the bar while adjusting the chain explains all my problems of often ending up with too tight of a chain soon after I begin cutting.
It is important to remember that the chain will stretch a bit as it heats up with use. So check it again once you have cut some wood. Like wise ,if the chain is warm and adjusted accordingly it will shrink when it cools down especially when stored during winter months. I like to detention the chain for storage to decrease the stress on the equipment.
If you tighten it while it’s hot, you need to loosen it before it cools again because you can damage the bearings etc. This is stated in the manual. If I need to adjust mine hot, I don’t suck it all the way up, I leave 1/8th in. Often the chain sagging is time to clean out the bar and cover, and likely sharpen it too. If it smokes, I clean it and sharpen it. There’s a lot of heat involved when the bar cover is plugged up and there’s wood in the bar channel.
I've had my chains also get tighter while bucking logs. I still don't understand that, but it happens. I check my chain constantly because I've thrown chains, and fried bars. Always take the tension off when you're done cutting.
Hi from Australia Steve, Have been selling chainsaws for 24 years. A tip I learned early on was to lift the handle so the nose touched the bench top while tensioning the chain and tightening the bar nuts. Saves needing three hands and you spill less beer. (Carlton Draught here buddy) Thanks for your great videos, Regards, Mark.
Maybe I'm just weird but I just turn my saw upside down, loosen the bolts, adjust the tension and then tighten it back up. After that, flip the saw back upright and go cut wood. If needed, turn it on its side to add gas and oil. Another weird thing I do. I fill the oil to the top, as much as I can get in there without over flowing it. Then I leave a little space with the gas, half to maybe 3/4". That way I will run out of gas first even if the oil is flowing faster than it should be for some reason. I'd much rather run out of gas than oil anyway. I'm still learning about saws, even tho I've ran one when I was much younger, but I've learned some weird ways over the years. ;-) I have a Stihl 028 av wood boss currently with a 20" bar. I am trying to find a good long lasting bar and chain tho. I cut oak and hickory which is tough on chains.
Great information. I look to you more often than not. Reason, I have Stihl power equipment. Chainsaw, Weed Trimmer and Blower/Vac. I want to keep them for a long time. Appreciate this information Steve. Joe from Indiana.
A couple additional comments: re-tighten after warmed up, as the warm chain will sag a bit after heating/expanding, especially if it's a new chain. Also, loosen and store loose if you're going to store it a bit long-term. Pull the chain back and forth (with chain brake off and be careful not to cut yourself). It should move freely and smoothly. If there's a pretty good amount of resistance, you're too tight. Finally, there are certain areas of the bar that are tell-tale signs of a too-tight or too-loose chain. See other videos on the subject and you'll learn about them. Overall, this video does a very good job though. Thanks, Steve.
Also, if you do this, dont forget to remove tension after use because as the chain cools it will contract causing huge stress on it and all connected components.
I’ve been quietly watching your videos for a few years now. I’m a small engine repair tech at a large home improvement chain. I have to train others, most with no experience, in how to run all sorts of small engine equipment. Your videos have been invaluable to help me know how to train the new young folks how to use these machines. Thanks so much
Good job explaining chain tightening! Thanks Steve. A review of fundamentals is never a waste of time! Strange how one can develop bad habits from thin air! Couple of minor points a) Clean out behind the cover plate to free up the sprocket and chain before adjusting chain. All that rotten wood fiber and oil that inevitably gets packed in there! Otherwise your chain adjustments will not be accurate. But we all keep our saws clean anyway, right? b) After adjusting and before locking down the nuts, roll the chain with gloved hand a full rotation and recheck the tension. While holding up the tip with hand of course. And again after tightening the nuts c) New factory chains can change after first hour or so of work. Usually getting longer and looser. I've thrown chains because I failed to check a factory new chain...
Great Video. Been adjusting my chain this way for many years. The other factor to consider is, that as the chain heats up it will become looser. I had the chain derail when I was a rookie and was lucky it only slapped me on the hand and wrist good. The little aluminum angle shaped safety damper is still on my saw although it is bent from that rookie mistake many years ago. It likely saved my hand and wrist from serious injury. That slap on the wrist always reminds me to monitor my chain tension often..
All awesome stuff 🙂! I was blessed by being taught all the tips and tricks from a father who used to make a living felling trees by hand. He fell some of the last of the old growth trees here in Washington state. He used big saws with massive bars. He taught me to keep the chain tight enough to stay on but not tight enough to cause binding. The chain should always move freely when pulled by hand. The sound your chain makes will always indicate whether or not your running it to tightly. I have learned from experience to watch and listen to my saw and chain. They can tell you many things if you know what to look for. I have as you say slapped myself on more than one occasion after a long day of tree thining or brush clearing and my chain has stretched and slacked off. On a side note always make sure you have your wrench securely on the nuts when tightening, I forget once and sliced the side of my hand open on the new chain I had just installed. My wrench slipped of at full down force. I like to make sure my nuts a nice and tight. I lost a few in the woods once when they backed off. This was a nice refresher and very important for the longevity of your saw. 😊 Thanks 👍.
Great video, thanks. I'm 58 and was laid off last year due to Covid. Been a "desk jockey" my whole life. Been looking for a suitable job the last 10 months and getting lots of scams and "you are overqualified." My friend is a landscaper and she's been getting newer, more wealthy clients in an adjacent town so I agreed to take on some of her smaller clients to make ends meet. Just bought my first chainsaw (Poulan 18") and watching maintenance and safety videos. I wanted to start cutting some oak logs today but decided to wait a day until I can get chaps and a helmet/guard/ear protection. I don't wanna cut my body up in a stupid oversight of basic chainsaw operation. I'm excited. I did a big weed whack/pruning job the other day and my body survived. I live in the mountains of Southern California and most houses are on steep hillsides. I was able to complete the job and it felt great. Aside from assessing the property I was free to think about whatever I wanted, music, comedy, whatever. It felt so good to be outdoors and not handcuffed to a desk thinking about programming and number crunching. A year from now I'm going to have enough clients to start contracting out help, then buy a better truck and trailer, then eventually manage my little landscaping business. You, kind sir, have played a big role in this dream and for that I thank you. PS Based on everything I've watched my new Poulan came to me basically perfectly set up. I fired her up no problem, messed with the kickback guard, and gave the chain a few revolutions. No issues.
A great must-do tip. My first job was at 15 yrs old in a saw shop. Your tip was one of the main things I leaned, only the method was different. Instead of holding the bar up, just turn the saw over and the bar sag will be in the up position without holding.
For 30 years I remember my first chainsaw bought and a shipmate that got out of navy got a job at earls small engine in goose creek South Carolina, told me to hold the bar down when tightening. Along comes TH-cam and I say let me see what this guy has to say( have an ms390 ready to replace chain) learned a bit, thanks you’ve helped with my string trimmer as well!
Dear Steve, Your tutorials are so well done; everything from the photography, sound of your voice, and clear easy to understand instructions. You are truly a blessing to us students in you tube land. Please keep your health and vitality because we need and love you. Bruce the swimmer New Rochelle N.Y.
In all the Trades and products the Manufacturers Recommendations are the rule. For the chain, the bar and this guy mentions this early. BRAVO EXCELLENT video!
Thanks for pointing this out. I knew not too tight nor too loose. Get the chain snug and it cuts well for about 15-20 minutes then I notice it has started getting loose again.
25 year arborist here. He’s absolutely right about holding the tip up. I always tell people to adjust the chain until you can just pull the drivers, which are the part opposite the cutting teeth, out of the bar at the middle of the bar without having to pull real hard. They should snap back into place with no sag at the bottom. Remember, a little loose is better than too tight. Also, I always flip the bar over every time I change the chain to minimize warp, but make sure you don’t put your chain on backwards!
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon Happy to help! Great video, thanks for making it! I get asked this question all the time and I’m always hearing homeowners with their chains making a loud whirring sound cuz they’ve got too much tension.
I’ve been tensioning my chain like this for about 5 years now; I think I learned it from Steve. I watched it tonight just to have a beer with him, as this is one of the rare videos he doesn’t drink his beer!
This is the best advice I have found on youtube. Even with my short attention span, the directness and detail had me locked in. Wish you did a sharpening AND tensioning video in one video and we’d all be done searchin!!
Another great video. My family owned and operated a tree service for 30+ years and maintained our saws ourselves. You described the process perfectly, even the need to lift the tip of the bar as you re-tightened the nuts holding the bar on.
Thanks Steve! Lost my dad 5 years ago and he was always there to help and teach. He never taught me about chainsaws ( we never needed one) Now I do and your videos help. Almost like having my dad here with me. Thanks!
Same Bryan my Dad who passed in 2021 built the family home 50 years ago and did pretty much anything a real blue collar guy. Started out on the docks at age 14, then a painter, janitor, then Coast Guard in 40C engine room or on barges in -20C hauling in buoys. A chainsaw wasn't something we owned. Good to get some tips and even better the why of why it's done from Steve.
6 months ago I didn’t know anything about small engines but now after watching so many of these videos and working on some that I bought for myself to mess with out of curiosity, I now use them on a regular basis and also repair them on the side. Thank you for all the great information and detail.
Your explanation for removing the “pre-load slack” is excellent. The same logic/method is used when tuning a guitar (or any stringed instrument), always “tune-up” (adjust in the direction of increased tension) to assure the structure of contact in the load direction. Pulling up on the bar will save a lot of time. I also find it best to run the saw for a minute to check the tension after adjustment, especially with new chains (true with guitar strings as well!).
Great advice! When I was cutting logs for a living, I would start the day adjusted this way then re-adjust after the first tree or so. As the bar and chain warm up the chain gets longer and looser. Make sure you are getting plenty of bar oil on the chain to keep it from getting too hot. There is also a big difference in the quality and lubricity in bar oils, don't use motor oil. Use only the best bar and chain oil you can get, try several brands. One day cutting with motor oil can ruin a bar and chain. When cutting real pitchy large wood like Western Larch or Douglas Fir you need to crank the bar oil adjustment screw up a ways.
Steve, for the sheer volume and great variety of explanations and techical details offered on video, you may be the very best of all instructors regarding Small Engine Repair and Equipment Maintenance. I like all of the instructors, but you have a particular knack for making complex things very simple for us ordinary "joes" and that is a unique gift.
Another great video Steve. When I was young, my father met a manager from McCullough Chain Saws. The guy liked my dad and they formed a business. Quality Control at McCullough would pick saws at random off the assembly line, perform a series of abusive tests on them, examine them under a microscope, and then throw all the pieces in a box. If you had an employee number you could buy a box of unassembled parts and reassemble them yourself. The business was reassembling the saws and selling them at steep discounts and with full disclosure of there source. I am amazed how well most manufacturers construct those saws and how much abuse they will take. It is better still to maintain them properly and enjoy even longer life and better performance. Thanks for the video.
I have way too arguments about this. There only direction that I had years ago was being able to slide the chain with a gloved hand, then it was properly tensioned. The one thing I could I could never figure out was the play in the bar with the bolts loose! Do hold it up or not? It seemed like everyone I ran into ignored this. This clear explanation of the complete process I have seen and I am 74. A total like and you have a new subscriber! Actually his end result is very close to my original perception of the correct process years ago. It was listening to other people that messed me up! Thank you.
Thanks Steve! Just bought a chainsaw and found the instruction booklet to be useless so turned to you-tube for help and found your video. Short, sweet and to the point. Sub'd straight away.
Been using chainsaws for 10 years, I'm not a professional, and always wondered if to adjust tension with bar up or down and how much. I've been doing it half way between the two so not too bad but this is clearly the way forward. Many thanks and stay safe.
Incredibly helpful with clear, concise instructions. After an hour of frustration when my chain kept coming off (had it on too tight), this worked like a charm. Thank you so much.
Thank you so much!!!! It's been a while since I've had mine out for action... so I'm so thankful for the best explanation I have heard on how to do this safely , effectively and properly... ❤❤
Good job, Steve. (BTW- 1200 RPM, not 12,000!) Long since retired, I repaired chainsaws for many years and, like you, stressed the importance of chain tension. Too loose will also place undue wear and tear on the bar and sprocket. To properly tension the chain, I instructed my customers to lift the weight of the saw about ¾ of the way out on the bar by the chain itself, then adjust to where the chain guides were just coming into the bar's slot, then tighten. That provides pretty much the same tension, on the chain as your method- and locks the bar in the "up" position you describe in your video. I thank you for taking the time to make this informative and helpful video.
Perfect, thanks! I just dashed in from the garden here in Kent, UK for exactly these tips as I'm cleaning, sharpening & adjusting a pruning chainsaw. It's only little but it's a handy device. You reminded me to get my hard hat, face guard & gloves out too! Cheers mate!
This is exactly how I adjusted my chain when I worked as a logger in the late 70s and early 80s. Normally I would rest the very tip of the bar on a log or stump and then lean forward a little on the top handle and that keep enough pressure under the bar to allow proper tensioning and tightening of the bar nuts.
Thank you for not only explaining what to do but why. Anyone can read a manufacturer recommendation. Knowing why the chain loosens makes it easier to know how to avoid problems
Good job! I personally, already knew this, but it's good that you're educating the new generation of wood cutters. They need to know these things. Keep up the good work! I usually just set the saw down on the floor of my trailer with the tip resting on a piece of firewood of sufficient diameter to raise it to the highest position and then tighten the nuts. That way I have the left hand free to stabilize the saw and keep it from moving around.
Always feels good to have a seasoned vet like yourself make sense of what I've been doing for the past couple years. Love your videos man, keep on keepin on!
I was cutting into a huge piece of fatwood today and it was the usual slow going. Took a look at my chain and it was about ready to come off. Not the first time this has happened either. This fatwood is like petrified wood. My chainsaw is working overtime on it. Takes forever to handsaw it and my wrists are not interested, so I use my Husqvarna. This the second huge piece I've gone to war with this month. And don't get me started on the embedded dirt and rocks. Even after a thorough cleaning. We're talking decade plus old fatwood. Thanks for your video
I remember having a conversation with someone I worked with about this a few years ago. He argued with me that doing it this way didn't make sense - he said that making undercuts on tree limbs would end up pushing the bar down, so it didn't matter how you had the bar positioned when tightening the chain. I argued that based on the number of undercuts one makes versus normal use that it made sense to do it this way; plus if just strictly cutting firewood one typically pushes downward, thus no need for undercutting. My argument fell pretty much on deaf ears... I still do it the same way as you did in your video to this day, no matter. 😁
another little thing to mention, more for rookies and homeowners is, make sure your chain brake is off, if your brake is on the sprocket won't move freely to tighten your chain no matter how much you spin the tensioner.
It also pays to pull the chain through once tightened up and just check the tension in a few places. Got me stuffed why, but there always seems to be a slack spot in it. If I find one, I take up half the difference and re-tighten.
I wasn't interested in maiming myself so I was trying to find the right tension. And you're right, there's a different answer depending on who you ask lol. But lifting the bar while adjusting is key info I didn't see yet.
I found 27 videos of this and all of you have different methods. In the Army they used to tell us " KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID" , now I know why it applies everywhere not just in the service. 1st Infantry 5th Field Artillery , FT. Riley KS 82-85 M-109.
I would normally adjust my chain a little loose because I didn’t know this technique, but knew it would tighten up during use. Now I know why and how to adjust it properly from the get-go. Thanks for the excellent advice.
Hello, I’ve inherited some chainsaws and got kitted up with the trousers, jacket, face visors and gloves, Pappy never got that far telling me about the chain’s tension,, now I do, many thanks, Coventry uk
I did that for years, and always found my bars would wear crooked faster..... also noticed when you give the beans to warm the engine, the chain is hanging off the bottom a good deal. Now, I tighten till it still has some decent spring tension, but still easy to move the chain by hand. Once it starts spinning, the hot, relaxed chain just barely hangs off the bar, keeping itself sucked up, barely loose/relaxed, and not really under tension.... but not saggy and rocking the teeth In either.... best part: no more worn bars.
Great video, and advice. I watched this a couple years ago after purchasing a new saw, and since then this information has served me well. It’s kept me safe, and definitely helped in regard to the extending the service life of the bar, and the chain. In regard to servicing in the field, I started carrying an awl, (or a thin flathead screwdriver), along with the standard nut/flathead tool. After servicing now, I’ve found that placing the awl through that single hole in the forward part of the bar allows you to keep constant upward tension on the bar while tightening the nuts. This also eliminates having your glove contacting the chain (or the bar), in the front sprocket area, which can sometimes be quite hot. But this method also allows you to pull the chain around a few times while the bar is fully upward, in order to detect any tight spots in the chain that might otherwise throw off proper tensioning. Before using this method, I had many an instance of “properly” tensioning the chain without moving it at all, only to find it overly loose again once throwing the brake on, and checking it after the first few cuts. Hope this helps someone, and thanks again for the video. 👍
This is the best instruction I've found. When you explain reasons why you do this or that, it make sense and it is easy to remember. I just cannot remember and follow advises that do not make sense. Well done
I was taught many moons ago to lift the tip up while tightening the nuts, a good way to do it is rest the tip on a small log so the weight of the saw is pushing the tip up, not many do it the correct way though, glad you are showing good practices, thanks for sharing 👍
No bs, no side chatting or asinine meandering onto other tangents with annoying music or audio. Straight to the point & concise. Kudos & accolades. 💯💯💯👏👏👏
Finally Steve, I as one, have just seen somebody (you) tighten up a chainsaw chain the correct way. Myself I just place a block of wood under the end of the bar that holds the bar up the right amount. Keep up the good work, and the right information. Also I've been a logger and worked in wood mills of one sort or another, my father told me to put that chainsaw on the ground when you go to start it!!! Period. Even the little ones. Even a dull chain can cut the HELL out of you quicker than you can blink your eyes. Especially the little ones. MICHAEL said that bye for now my friend.
My wife has four chainsaws and each manual gives different spec's for the 'correct' tension. It is so nice to see someone do a perfectly understandable video on how to do it properly. Thanks so much for this. It may save me a lot of repair work.
Thanks brother. I was a dealer and have been cutting wood for fifty years. I wouldn't sell a saw without training the customer. Here is what I taught: The bar and chain must be cold. Loosen the bar nuts. Hold the tip of the bar up while adjusting the tensioning screw. Increase the chain tension until the chain just kisses the bottom of the bar. Tighten the bar nuts. Manually pull the chain around making sure the chain continues to maintain contact with the bottom of the bar. Repeat the process if necessary. Shalom/gw
I have one of these and while I do enjoy using a variety of different cutting implications I primarily use this for clearing low growth branches - cutting close to the trunk. I've tried using it to clear thorns and vines but have noticed that if the material being cut isnt rather stiff (not flimsy) it doesnt really cut that well. Like the low grow you were cutting with it, if I had to use it on it I would try to cut closer to the ground - it could just be me and what I'm trying to cut but if it has alot of movement it's likely the blade wont cut through it. Definitely add some kind of gripping tape, I've accidentally a few times lost grip while swinging it. Good content - new sub
Steve, you are the best at explaining all the reasons why u do what u do. I have learned so much and I now have a great chainsaw that I use a lot , because of you. And I am a female so this is an exceptional compliment !
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon you’re welcome U deserve. The simple explanations about how things work or flow TRULY help me a great deal. I just finished cutting up some branches and I can’t believe how much better the saw cut and my arms don’t hurt AND the tension on my chain is great! I am so grateful that u get to the pt, don’t run on and make short , to the pt videos!
For sentimental reasons I got into the habit of keeping my previous dog’s collar through the loop of the handle of my saw. One day I had to take the bar off the saw while out in the field. Not having a bench that I would normally have to work from, I decided to hang the saw from a branch, putting the saw at chest height for me and found it to be a surprisingly easy place to clean the saw from! Putting the bar back on and tightening the chain was a breeze because gravity perfectly tensioned and positioned both bar and chain. Ever since, I use the same technique in my garage with a sturdy nail in the nail in the rafters.
Hey mate, thanks for this video. I'm the product of two small-engines mechanics, and my parents indeed taught me well, but in looking for a comprehensive video to share with others, I struggled to find many. Yours was clear and concise, and my favourite so far!
Thanks Steve. Really pretty simple and straight forward but great to get the step by step when you have very little actual experience. You are a very good instructor. Cheers.
Great video... Exactly how I tension my chain. If I may suggest, I place a block of wood under the tip of the bar and chain so that bar is resting at its highest position as you had described by holding the bar with your hand. Using the block of wood will allow you to use both hands for adjusting chain tension and tightening the lock nuts... It's just something I've found helpful. Thanks again for the good videos!
@@thomasharp3246 It's moving the bar. The sprocket is firmly attached to the engine. Take the cover off the sprocket side, keep the bar and chain in place (takes about 3 hands, LOL) and turn the screw, watch what is happening. You should be able to see the bar move back and forth. Of course, you are going to have to put the cover back on, and readjust your chain tension.
I’ve been using that method for over 40 years and it works. Thanks for sharing this method. I cut 2-3 cords a year along with the other work I do in the woods and I’ve only replaced my bars 2x on my saws. I run a 024&028 Wood Boss Avs. The sprockets are in great shape. I do grease the bar tips every day and I think it helps extend the life of the bars. Cheers 🍺!
i always run the saw for half a min , turn it off and re check the tension then . sometimes it can be sitting on the '' wrong '' part of the drive sprocket. just something that works for me.
Thank you Steve for all your videos that make it easy for a non professional to make his own adjustments and save money by doing our own maintenance on all our gas powered toys. You have taught me so much with your easy to understand words and humor. Keep up the good work.
Having worked on chain saws, through the transition from lower chain speeds, to greater chain speeds, and from even professionals using used crankcase oil to the best oil they could get, the used or lower grade oils were pretty hard on any oiler system, the old Mac and Homelite systems come to mind. Your tips are something I learned the hard way. It was really hard to convince folks they should good oil, and many could not grasp the concept of a properly tensioned chain, because they should have never had a chainsaw anyway. Yours is my favorite site for any innovational info on any small engines. Thanks for your investment into the topic.
Interesting, I seem to remember reading this exact same information back in 1984 in the little booklet that came with my Farm Boss. Many, many dozens of cords later, that saw still works great. Been thru lots of chains. a couple of bars and 2 clutch housings but experience shows me that this here method works.
From what I remember during training, you lift the chain halfway along the bar on the top, correct tension is reached when the chain guide just clears the bar. My old Husky used to rock forward onto the bench as I was tightening the nuts, that achieved the same result as holding the tip up.
using this method should be fine for certain length bars but when you get into longer bars you should have more clearance... there's no exact science but the longer the bar the looser the chain can and imo needs to be to work freely. as stated 20 people 20 opinions ( very roughly paraphrased :) ) so yeah just my 2 cents
Thanks Steve, I did not know about keeping the tip up when going through the tensioning process. It's a good day when I learn something. Take care, Ben from Nova Scotia
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✋Heads up guys, I did say a quick thing at about 1:55 that is not what I meant! The chain actually is not spinning at 12,000 RPM just because the engine is. But my point is still valid....👍
Carburator already!
we knew what you meant ! ;)
We knew what you meant. Great video. Thx.
12000 revs per minute implies engine speed I think. Anyway we know you basically meant frickin fast.
What is the chains rpm at say 12000
No shitty music, brand new saw or pointless waffle. Here is a guy that knows what he is talking about, concise & informative. Thank you sir, I think I shall sub. 👍
WOW! Thank You...
Get the gullet!
Agreed!
Hey Steve, is it normal to have the tension screw almost maxed out in, to have the correct tension?@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon
he waffles for 6 mins
This was how I was taught to tension a chain when I purchased my first saw thirty five years ago. Thumbs up to you Steve.....
Thank You...
Gut erklärt und gezeigt, in Übereinstimmung dessen, was dazu ihm Handbuch zur Stihl Motorsäge steht…Vielen Dank!
I'm a firefighter on a truck company in a major US city and we use Stihl saws for cutting ventilation holes in all types of roofs. Your video was fantastic. I'll definitely be using these tips and advice going forward. As someone who expects his saw to save lives, having your equipment set up properly can be a matter of life and death. Kudos!
Right on Frank! Thank You...
If you’re going through shingles do you tear some shingles off first? Seems like your chain would dull immediately going through them
This is rad, thank you for your service
@@Slippindisc Maybe on a pretty intact roof with little time to play/train/whatever. But if it’s gettin it and you’re going hard offensive to get ahead, occupants trapped… guys inside who’re gettin pressed down…that kind of fire, then it’s the least thing I cared about. I just wanted to safely get off the roof and provide the best environment I could for everyone inside workin in the dark.
Carbide teeth?
Nobody in my entire tiny career operating saws ever helped me out like that concerning chain tension. Huge thank you.
You're Welcome...
Ditto. Thanks for putting so much no-nonsense info in one place.
First guy I’ve seen who actually knows how to correctly set the chain tension. I’ve done it this way for 45 years.Great video!
Right on Dave! Thank You...
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon I'd say that's a tad tight ! I'd be looking for a tiny bit of slack - no more than 1mm (I don't know what that is in imperial even though I'm imperial ! 1/16" ??
@@millomweb It would be 1/25, as one inch is 25,4 mm.
@@Staale69 That's logical :)
Dave said what I was thinking . I was taught to hold the tip up thirty years ago.
Finally, someone who knows how to make an informative video. Perfectly explained for the novice.
Thank You...
6y7789pooo090o0ppiu9ii99oi78iioooppooikuiuju77ujjii9kjijjiiioioouuuii888888iiiiiiip00009990 is0guo000ppokoojjkkkpuii89oiooiu777uu879999ooliii99i00ppoopppp0p0p99yy80990000000uipllpu733221111qqqqqqa9ooooii0oooo09i900ii
@@fransrichter7698 b
And no shitty music in the background. Also like to say that your chainsaw seem a lot.
Yeah, it’s why I subbed the moment I found this channel. For once, somebody who doesn’t waste time with lots of unimportant information and also presents things clearly, and in a rational order.
I learn more from these videos than I do from hours of others.
Great tip thanks. I'm a British immigrant to Canada and been a Canadian citizen for over 40 years.
Now that I have a chain saw I finally feel like a real Canadian!!
Thanks ! 🙏
Right on
all u really need is a hockey stick..lol
Hey man, I am not sure if you will see this since the video is nearly 6 years old now. However, I recently purchased a STHIL Chainsaw myself. This video helped me, as a first time young homeowner. I appreciate the fact there is no bullshit into, no "before we get into this, here's a thanks to my sponsors", or any other crap. Just straightforward and to the point. When I have a little extra money, I will be purchasing some stickers, coffee cup, and other items from your store as a thank you.
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
Helped me huge as well. I couldn’t figure out why the new chain was not cutting well before I learned you need to pull the tip of the bar up when adjusting. Good to go now. Thank you
Also helped me. Thanks.
You want to tension the chain until it gets stiff to move on the bar freely then back it off .. yes chain needs to "snap" back into the bar at all times..
6 years later and this video is still serving a great purpose....Thank you.....
Glad it was helpful!
Another good talk. All of yours are. When a marginally skilled person (me) never has any coworkers or cohorts, doing the same tasks, to talk to, it’s a little or a lot dangerous. No on-going learning takes place other than one’s own accidents or near misses. So this lone eagle develops bad habits or just plain underperforms. I’ve seen this a number of times while coming in contact with firms who decide to have one person do a task that nobody else in the whole company does. That worker has nobody to say “oh man, I had a close call today don’t do what I did” or “hey, Bub, let me show you something”. I find some show hosts, such as you, fill this sort of gap where I’m an amateur. So, thx a bunch being here with me.
I'm a new homeowner. Just moved in from years of living in an apartment in the city. Needless to say we don't use many small engine tools.
So I'm an enthusiastic learner with no complexes.
And you are by far one of the clearest and most enjoyable teachers I've watched.
Thanks a bunch.
Thank you for the awesome comment, my friend....
I appreciate people who can go in depth technically but keep their teaching engaging and interesting. From a self-described expert in the tree industry, I still watch or listen all the way through. You never know when someone is going to be able to challenge your mastery. The only time it might be acceptable to stop learning is after death, but I can't guarantee that either.
Right on Jesse! Thank You...
yer you're onto it, been doing that since i bin cutting firewood started around 1980, one tip....shove a block or piece of wood under the tip, or in the field rest the tip on a small branch on the ground so the chainsaw is resting on the back of the handle and the tip. this ensures the bar is pushed up hard and you can concentrate on tensioning the chain and tightening the nuts. i have my bar oil cranked up to the max, you can have the chain with some tension on it because in operation when a large amount of heat is generated the chain will lengthen and the xtra tension will back off very quickly to ideal, also never tension a hot bar and leave it cool down, when the chain shrinks it can over stress the crankshaft, try to always set your tension just before you start cutting. my sthil was an 042 for 25yrs, bought an ms 361 back round 07. having said all that your vids are good steve, practical knowledge with no bullshit. regards...
Great way... I cut 8 cords a yr in Montana
Thanks for that tip. Makes sense from what Steve explained too.
I’ve had 4 dudes on my chainsaws and not one of my machines are fully functional anymore.... except the Husqvarna now that I took it in to Sthil repair place and they had to replace bar, chain and secure the handle for me! They gave me a small tutorial as well. No more dudes on my equipment because of people like you and Steve and a lot of “but why?”, instead of sticking my head in the sand after my late husband’s fatal accident, I tcb myself.
@@nevada8462 _"I’ve had 4 dudes on my chainsaws and not one of my machines are fully functional anymore..."_
Reminds me of all the different 'professionals' that cleaned my boiler. All of them improperly adjusted the igniter electrode. I would always hear fuel spraying before it finally ignited then 'woomp!'
I watched them a few times then read the owners manual and bought a vernier caliper and adjusted the electrode gap myself.
Ignition was instant.
Was gonna say the same thing. Why hold it up when you have all this wood around you to do it for you and give you two free hands?
Agree
As a more or less happy homeowner for 45 years in 24 acres of woods, I had figured this out over a number of years and chainsaws. Wish I had this video in the back then days. Thanks for passing on the word in your usual excellent style.
Thanks for sharing!
There are a lot of guys from Ork that make chainsaw videos. Many of them I want to ask WHY?
This is the BEST explanation of chain tightening I have ever seen on the Web.
Tip: a little piece if 2x4 can be used to hold that tip up, so you can use both hands to adjust chain tension and tighten the nuts.
If you have a stump vice, that makes a good bi-pod for the tip of the bar... like on a rifle.
Notice his terminology. It is all correct. (There is NO "blade" on a chainsaw, for example.)
READ your saw manual. It's there to help you.
Right on...
Actually there is a "blade" if you're in the British isles.
Burt Hulbert Who in the British Isles makes chainsaws?
Burt Hulbert and a boot is a trunk and a bonnet is a hood.
@@DiscoFang who in America makes chainsaws?
holding the bar up while tensioning the chain has finally made me understand why my chains keep going loose!! Fantastic!
Right on! Glad I could help.
As a homeowner and builder who occasionally helps clearing some of the lots that I build on, this video is helpful to me. Not pulling up on the end of the bar while adjusting the chain explains all my problems of often ending up with too tight of a chain soon after I begin cutting.
Right on
Why are you putting so much weight into cutting ? Just let the saw and gravity work together !
It is important to remember that the chain will stretch a bit as it heats up with use. So check it again once you have cut some wood. Like wise ,if the chain is warm and adjusted accordingly it will shrink when it cools down especially when stored during winter months. I like to detention the chain for storage to decrease the stress on the equipment.
I agree. I always slightly overtighten mine when using a brand new chain for this reason.
Especially if it’s a brand new chain.
If you tighten it while it’s hot, you need to loosen it before it cools again because you can damage the bearings etc. This is stated in the manual. If I need to adjust mine hot, I don’t suck it all the way up, I leave 1/8th in. Often the chain sagging is time to clean out the bar and cover, and likely sharpen it too. If it smokes, I clean it and sharpen it. There’s a lot of heat involved when the bar cover is plugged up and there’s wood in the bar channel.
That is very smart. Reducing. Tightness. In WINTER.
I've had my chains also get tighter while bucking logs. I still don't understand that, but it happens. I check my chain constantly because I've thrown chains, and fried bars.
Always take the tension off when you're done cutting.
Hi from Australia Steve,
Have been selling chainsaws for 24 years. A tip I learned early on was to lift the handle so the nose touched the bench top while tensioning the chain and tightening the bar nuts.
Saves needing three hands and you spill less beer. (Carlton Draught here buddy)
Thanks for your great videos,
Regards,
Mark.
Right on Mark...
maybe im mising something, its the same two hands either way. just a different end of the saw. lol
Maybe I'm just weird but I just turn my saw upside down, loosen the bolts, adjust the tension and then tighten it back up. After that, flip the saw back upright and go cut wood. If needed, turn it on its side to add gas and oil.
Another weird thing I do. I fill the oil to the top, as much as I can get in there without over flowing it. Then I leave a little space with the gas, half to maybe 3/4". That way I will run out of gas first even if the oil is flowing faster than it should be for some reason. I'd much rather run out of gas than oil anyway.
I'm still learning about saws, even tho I've ran one when I was much younger, but I've learned some weird ways over the years. ;-) I have a Stihl 028 av wood boss currently with a 20" bar. I am trying to find a good long lasting bar and chain tho. I cut oak and hickory which is tough on chains.
Kyabram Motors spilling less beer is always a good enough reason for me!!!
I use a scrap of wood sometimes if it's handy
Great information. I look to you more often than not. Reason, I have Stihl power equipment. Chainsaw, Weed Trimmer and Blower/Vac. I want to keep them for a long time. Appreciate this information Steve. Joe from Indiana.
A couple additional comments: re-tighten after warmed up, as the warm chain will sag a bit after heating/expanding, especially if it's a new chain. Also, loosen and store loose if you're going to store it a bit long-term. Pull the chain back and forth (with chain brake off and be careful not to cut yourself). It should move freely and smoothly. If there's a pretty good amount of resistance, you're too tight. Finally, there are certain areas of the bar that are tell-tale signs of a too-tight or too-loose chain. See other videos on the subject and you'll learn about them. Overall, this video does a very good job though. Thanks, Steve.
Also, if you do this, dont forget to remove tension after use because as the chain cools it will contract causing huge stress on it and all connected components.
Thanks Steve. This helped me a bunch in understanding how to adjust the tension on my chain!
I’ve been quietly watching your videos for a few years now. I’m a small engine repair tech at a large home improvement chain. I have to train others, most with no experience, in how to run all sorts of small engine equipment. Your videos have been invaluable to help me know how to train the new young folks how to use these machines. Thanks so much
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
Good job explaining chain tightening! Thanks Steve. A review of fundamentals is never a waste of time! Strange how one can develop bad habits from thin air! Couple of minor points a) Clean out behind the cover plate to free up the sprocket and chain before adjusting chain. All that rotten wood fiber and oil that inevitably gets packed in there! Otherwise your chain adjustments will not be accurate. But we all keep our saws clean anyway, right? b) After adjusting and before locking down the nuts, roll the chain with gloved hand a full rotation and recheck the tension. While holding up the tip with hand of course. And again after tightening the nuts c) New factory chains can change after first hour or so of work. Usually getting longer and looser. I've thrown chains because I failed to check a factory new chain...
Bought a few "chain catchers" that got sheared in half due to this :^(
Great Video. Been adjusting my chain this way for many years. The other factor to consider is, that as the chain heats up it will become looser. I had the chain derail when I was a rookie and was lucky it only slapped me on the hand and wrist good. The little aluminum angle shaped safety damper is still on my saw although it is bent from that rookie mistake many years ago. It likely saved my hand and wrist from serious injury. That slap on the wrist always reminds me to monitor my chain tension often..
All awesome stuff 🙂! I was blessed by being taught all the tips and tricks from a father who used to make a living felling trees by hand. He fell some of the last of the old growth trees here in Washington state. He used big saws with massive bars. He taught me to keep the chain tight enough to stay on but not tight enough to cause binding. The chain should always move freely when pulled by hand. The sound your chain makes will always indicate whether or not your running it to tightly. I have learned from experience to watch and listen to my saw and chain. They can tell you many things if you know what to look for. I have as you say slapped myself on more than one occasion after a long day of tree thining or brush clearing and my chain has stretched and slacked off. On a side note always make sure you have your wrench securely on the nuts when tightening, I forget once and sliced the side of my hand open on the new chain I had just installed. My wrench slipped of at full down force. I like to make sure my nuts a nice and tight. I lost a few in the woods once when they backed off.
This was a nice refresher and very important for the longevity of your saw. 😊 Thanks 👍.
Great video, thanks. I'm 58 and was laid off last year due to Covid. Been a "desk jockey" my whole life. Been looking for a suitable job the last 10 months and getting lots of scams and "you are overqualified."
My friend is a landscaper and she's been getting newer, more wealthy clients in an adjacent town so I agreed to take on some of her smaller clients to make ends meet. Just bought my first chainsaw (Poulan 18") and watching maintenance and safety videos. I wanted to start cutting some oak logs today but decided to wait a day until I can get chaps and a helmet/guard/ear protection. I don't wanna cut my body up in a stupid oversight of basic chainsaw operation.
I'm excited. I did a big weed whack/pruning job the other day and my body survived. I live in the mountains of Southern California and most houses are on steep hillsides. I was able to complete the job and it felt great. Aside from assessing the property I was free to think about whatever I wanted, music, comedy, whatever. It felt so good to be outdoors and not handcuffed to a desk thinking about programming and number crunching. A year from now I'm going to have enough clients to start contracting out help, then buy a better truck and trailer, then eventually manage my little landscaping business.
You, kind sir, have played a big role in this dream and for that I thank you.
PS Based on everything I've watched my new Poulan came to me basically perfectly set up. I fired her up no problem, messed with the kickback guard, and gave the chain a few revolutions. No issues.
How's business?
A great must-do tip. My first job was at 15 yrs old in a saw shop. Your tip was one of the main things I leaned, only the method was different. Instead of holding the bar up, just turn the saw over and the bar sag will be in the up position without holding.
For 30 years I remember my first chainsaw bought and a shipmate that got out of navy got a job at earls small engine in goose creek South Carolina, told me to hold the bar down when tightening. Along comes TH-cam and I say let me see what this guy has to say( have an ms390 ready to replace chain) learned a bit, thanks you’ve helped with my string trimmer as well!
Dear Steve,
Your tutorials are so well done; everything from the photography, sound of your voice, and clear easy to understand instructions. You are truly a blessing to us students in you tube land. Please keep your health and vitality because we need and love you.
Bruce the swimmer New Rochelle N.Y.
Thanks brother....
In all the Trades and products the Manufacturers Recommendations are the rule. For the chain, the bar and this guy mentions this early. BRAVO EXCELLENT video!
Thank You...
Awesome, sharpened my first chain today ( I’m 54) shows you’re never to old to learn something new. Thanks. Excellent teacher…
Thank You...
Thanks for pointing this out. I knew not too tight nor too loose. Get the chain snug and it cuts well for about 15-20 minutes then I notice it has started getting loose again.
25 year arborist here. He’s absolutely right about holding the tip up. I always tell people to adjust the chain until you can just pull the drivers, which are the part opposite the cutting teeth, out of the bar at the middle of the bar without having to pull real hard. They should snap back into place with no sag at the bottom. Remember, a little loose is better than too tight. Also, I always flip the bar over every time I change the chain to minimize warp, but make sure you don’t put your chain on backwards!
Good point! Thank You...
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon Happy to help! Great video, thanks for making it! I get asked this question all the time and I’m always hearing homeowners with their chains making a loud whirring sound cuz they’ve got too much tension.
I’ve been tensioning my chain like this for about 5 years now; I think I learned it from Steve. I watched it tonight just to have a beer with him, as this is one of the rare videos he doesn’t drink his beer!
This is the best advice I have found on youtube. Even with my short attention span, the directness and detail had me locked in. Wish you did a sharpening AND tensioning video in one video and we’d all be done searchin!!
I'm a Stihl tech, you did a thorough job explaining the tension on chain
Thanks, appreciate it!
Another great video. My family owned and operated a tree service for 30+ years and maintained our saws ourselves. You described the process perfectly, even the need to lift the tip of the bar as you re-tightened the nuts holding the bar on.
Right on
Thanks Steve! Lost my dad 5 years ago and he was always there to help and teach. He never taught me about chainsaws ( we never needed one) Now I do and your videos help. Almost like having my dad here with me. Thanks!
Glad to help
Same Bryan my Dad who passed in 2021 built the family home 50 years ago and did pretty much anything a real blue collar guy. Started out on the docks at age 14, then a painter, janitor, then Coast Guard in 40C engine room or on barges in -20C hauling in buoys. A chainsaw wasn't something we owned. Good to get some tips and even better the why of why it's done from Steve.
Thanks never knew why got tighter when I tightened the chain,thanks Steve
Thanks for this info. I always wondered how to compensate for the up-down movement of the plate. I use cheap chainsaws that are so flimsy !
6 months ago I didn’t know anything about small engines but now after watching so many of these videos and working on some that I bought for myself to mess with out of curiosity, I now use them on a regular basis and also repair them on the side. Thank you for all the great information and detail.
Great to hear!
Your explanation for removing the “pre-load slack” is excellent. The same logic/method is used when tuning a guitar (or any stringed instrument), always “tune-up” (adjust in the direction of increased tension) to assure the structure of contact in the load direction. Pulling up on the bar will save a lot of time. I also find it best to run the saw for a minute to check the tension after adjustment, especially with new chains (true with guitar strings as well!).
Great, GREAT video. I’ve been wondering about the correct way to do that for 22 yrs.🤪. Finally someone taught us correctly . God Bless You 🙏🏼
Having used chain saws for over 35 years, I never seen a better explanation on chain-tightening ! Congratulations!
Thank you very much!
Great advice! When I was cutting logs for a living, I would start the day adjusted this way then re-adjust after the first tree or so. As the bar and chain warm up the chain gets longer and looser. Make sure you are getting plenty of bar oil on the chain to keep it from getting too hot. There is also a big difference in the quality and lubricity in bar oils, don't use motor oil. Use only the best bar and chain oil you can get, try several brands. One day cutting with motor oil can ruin a bar and chain. When cutting real pitchy large wood like Western Larch or Douglas Fir you need to crank the bar oil adjustment screw up a ways.
I run atf in mine. 😂
Finally, someone who can make a point clearly !
Thank You...
The guy is pretty gifted. Easy to understand.
Steve, for the sheer volume and great variety of explanations and techical details offered on video, you may be the very best of all instructors regarding Small Engine Repair and Equipment Maintenance. I like all of the instructors, but you have a particular knack for making complex things very simple for us ordinary "joes" and that is a unique gift.
WOW! Thank You...
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon A friend to a friend.
Definitely explains it to the average guy.... Who is also probably drinking a Lucky Lager while he works on his saw in the shed lol
Another great video Steve. When I was young, my father met a manager from McCullough Chain Saws. The guy liked my dad and they formed a business. Quality Control at McCullough would pick saws at random off the assembly line, perform a series of abusive tests on them, examine them under a microscope, and then throw all the pieces in a box. If you had an employee number you could buy a box of unassembled parts and reassemble them yourself. The business was reassembling the saws and selling them at steep discounts and with full disclosure of there source. I am amazed how well most manufacturers construct those saws and how much abuse they will take. It is better still to maintain them properly and enjoy even longer life and better performance. Thanks for the video.
WOW! Bruce that was an incredible comment! Thank You...
I have been over tightening my bar for years. As always, Steve's advice makes perfect sense.
I have way too arguments about this. There only direction that I had years ago was being able to slide the chain with a gloved hand, then it was properly tensioned. The one thing I could I could never figure out was the play in the bar with the bolts loose! Do hold it up or not? It seemed like everyone I ran into ignored this. This clear explanation of the complete process I have seen and I am 74. A total like and you have a new subscriber! Actually his end result is very close to my original perception of the correct process years ago. It was listening to other people that messed me up! Thank you.
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
Thanks Steve! Just bought a chainsaw and found the instruction booklet to be useless so turned to you-tube for help and found your video. Short, sweet and to the point. Sub'd straight away.
You're Welcome...
Been using chainsaws for 10 years, I'm not a professional, and always wondered if to adjust tension with bar up or down and how much. I've been doing it half way between the two so not too bad but this is clearly the way forward. Many thanks and stay safe.
Right on
Incredibly helpful with clear, concise instructions. After an hour of frustration when my chain kept coming off (had it on too tight), this worked like a charm.
Thank you so much.
Great to hear!
Finally, .......... someone who knows what he is talking about. Greetings from Europe.
Thank You...
Thank you so much!!!! It's been a while since I've had mine out for action... so I'm so thankful for the best explanation I have heard on how to do this safely , effectively and properly... ❤❤
Glad it helped!
Good job, Steve. (BTW- 1200 RPM, not 12,000!) Long since retired, I repaired chainsaws for many years and, like you, stressed the importance of chain tension. Too loose will also place undue wear and tear on the bar and sprocket. To properly tension the chain, I instructed my customers to lift the weight of the saw about ¾ of the way out on the bar by the chain itself, then adjust to where the chain guides were just coming into the bar's slot, then tighten. That provides pretty much the same tension, on the chain as your method- and locks the bar in the "up" position you describe in your video. I thank you for taking the time to make this informative and helpful video.
Perfect, thanks! I just dashed in from the garden here in Kent, UK for exactly these tips as I'm cleaning, sharpening & adjusting a pruning chainsaw. It's only little but it's a handy device.
You reminded me to get my hard hat, face guard & gloves out too!
Cheers mate!
Thanks again Steve, So many folks have given me different instructions and I did it my way anyway. Your example is simple and makes sense to me.
Excellent!
This is exactly how I adjusted my chain when I worked as a logger in the late 70s and early 80s. Normally I would rest the very tip of the bar on a log or stump and then lean forward a little on the top handle and that keep enough pressure under the bar to allow proper tensioning and tightening of the bar nuts.
Perfect!
Thank you for not only explaining what to do but why. Anyone can read a manufacturer recommendation. Knowing why the chain loosens makes it easier to know how to avoid problems
You're Welcome...
Good job! I personally, already knew this, but it's good that you're educating the new generation of wood cutters. They need to know these things. Keep up the good work!
I usually just set the saw down on the floor of my trailer with the tip resting on a piece of firewood of sufficient diameter to raise it to the highest position and then tighten the nuts. That way I have the left hand free to stabilize the saw and keep it from moving around.
Well said!
Always feels good to have a seasoned vet like yourself make sense of what I've been doing for the past couple years. Love your videos man, keep on keepin on!
Right on Danny! Thank You...
So, what you're saying is, "Hold your tip up when you tighten you nuts?" Makes perfect sense to me! Great vid. Thanks for posting!
Brilliant.
Albert Head Nice. Would have added “while checking your oil” but well played sir
🤔😂😂🤣🤣🤣👨🏾🔧🇯🇲🇨🇦🤙🏾👏🏾🙏🏿
Mostly I like holding the nuts up while you know who is playing with the tip.
Go to your room.
I was cutting into a huge piece of fatwood today and it was the usual slow going. Took a look at my chain and it was about ready to come off. Not the first time this has happened either. This fatwood is like petrified wood. My chainsaw is working overtime on it. Takes forever to handsaw it and my wrists are not interested, so I use my Husqvarna. This the second huge piece I've gone to war with this month. And don't get me started on the embedded dirt and rocks. Even after a thorough cleaning. We're talking decade plus old fatwood. Thanks for your video
I remember having a conversation with someone I worked with about this a few years ago. He argued with me that doing it this way didn't make sense - he said that making undercuts on tree limbs would end up pushing the bar down, so it didn't matter how you had the bar positioned when tightening the chain. I argued that based on the number of undercuts one makes versus normal use that it made sense to do it this way; plus if just strictly cutting firewood one typically pushes downward, thus no need for undercutting. My argument fell pretty much on deaf ears... I still do it the same way as you did in your video to this day, no matter. 😁
Right on
another little thing to mention, more for rookies and homeowners is, make sure your chain brake is off, if your brake is on the sprocket won't move freely to tighten your chain no matter how much you spin the tensioner.
It also pays to pull the chain through once tightened up and just check the tension in a few places. Got me stuffed why, but there always seems to be a slack spot in it. If I find one, I take up half the difference and re-tighten.
I wasn't interested in maiming myself so I was trying to find the right tension. And you're right, there's a different answer depending on who you ask lol.
But lifting the bar while adjusting is key info I didn't see yet.
I like to tighten the chain where it just starts to smoke the bar, then throw the saw in the shed and go fishing.
if it performs how you want it to, you're doing it right.
@@kenbrown2808 it performs great when the fish are bitin.
lmao
Well that's smart in a way.
I adjust the bar after every 20 be-headings.
I found 27 videos of this and all of you have different methods. In the Army they used to tell us " KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID" , now I know why it applies everywhere not just in the service. 1st Infantry 5th Field Artillery , FT. Riley KS 82-85 M-109.
I would normally adjust my chain a little loose because I didn’t know this technique, but knew it would tighten up during use. Now I know why and how to adjust it properly from the get-go. Thanks for the excellent advice.
You're welcome!
That sounds backwards expansion happens with heat. 🤷♂️
@@cole9909 or the coefficient of thermal expansion of the bar is much higher than that of the chain😵💫
Hello, I’ve inherited some chainsaws and got kitted up with the trousers, jacket, face visors and gloves, Pappy never got that far telling me about the chain’s tension,, now I do, many thanks, Coventry uk
I did that for years, and always found my bars would wear crooked faster..... also noticed when you give the beans to warm the engine, the chain is hanging off the bottom a good deal. Now, I tighten till it still has some decent spring tension, but still easy to move the chain by hand. Once it starts spinning, the hot, relaxed chain just barely hangs off the bar, keeping itself sucked up, barely loose/relaxed, and not really under tension.... but not saggy and rocking the teeth In either.... best part: no more worn bars.
Thanks! I hadn't thought to lift the top bar while adjusting! Makes a world of difference!
You're Welcome...
This is exactly the video I needed and now I know what I was doing wrong. You're the man
Thank You...
Great video, and advice. I watched this a couple years ago after purchasing a new saw, and since then this information has served me well. It’s kept me safe, and definitely helped in regard to the extending the service life of the bar, and the chain.
In regard to servicing in the field, I started carrying an awl, (or a thin flathead screwdriver), along with the standard nut/flathead tool.
After servicing now, I’ve found that placing the awl through that single hole in the forward part of the bar allows you to keep constant upward tension on the bar while tightening the nuts. This also eliminates having your glove contacting the chain (or the bar), in the front sprocket area, which can sometimes be quite hot. But this method also allows you to pull the chain around a few times while the bar is fully upward, in order to detect any tight spots in the chain that might otherwise throw off proper tensioning.
Before using this method, I had many an instance of “properly” tensioning the chain without moving it at all, only to find it overly loose again once throwing the brake on, and checking it after the first few cuts.
Hope this helps someone, and thanks again for the video. 👍
This is the best instruction I've found. When you explain reasons why you do this or that, it make sense and it is easy to remember. I just cannot remember and follow advises that do not make sense. Well done
Thanks buddy
I was taught many moons ago to lift the tip up while tightening the nuts, a good way to do it is rest the tip on a small log so the weight of the saw is pushing the tip up, not many do it the correct way though, glad you are showing good practices, thanks for sharing 👍
Sir, you are a natural educator. Instant subscribe - with thanks.
You're Welcome...and Thank You...
No bs, no side chatting or asinine meandering onto other tangents with annoying music or audio.
Straight to the point & concise. Kudos & accolades.
💯💯💯👏👏👏
Thank You...
Finally Steve, I as one, have just seen somebody (you) tighten up a chainsaw chain the correct way. Myself I just place a block of wood under the end of the bar that holds the bar up the right amount. Keep up the good work, and the right information. Also I've been a logger and worked in wood mills of one sort or another, my father told me to put that chainsaw on the ground when you go to start it!!! Period. Even the little ones. Even a dull chain can cut the HELL out of you quicker than you can blink your eyes. Especially the little ones. MICHAEL said that bye for now my friend.
My wife has four chainsaws and each manual gives different spec's for the 'correct' tension. It is so nice to see someone do a perfectly understandable video on how to do it properly. Thanks so much for this. It may save me a lot of repair work.
Glad to help
Thanks brother. I was a dealer and have been cutting wood for fifty years. I wouldn't sell a saw without training the customer. Here is what I taught: The bar and chain must be cold. Loosen the bar nuts. Hold the tip of the bar up while adjusting the tensioning screw. Increase the chain tension until the chain just kisses the bottom of the bar. Tighten the bar nuts. Manually pull the chain around making sure the chain continues to maintain contact with the bottom of the bar. Repeat the process if necessary. Shalom/gw
I have one of these and while I do enjoy using a variety of different cutting implications I primarily use this for clearing low growth branches - cutting close to the trunk. I've tried using it to clear thorns and vines but have noticed that if the material being cut isnt rather stiff (not flimsy) it doesnt really cut that well. Like the low grow you were cutting with it, if I had to use it on it I would try to cut closer to the ground - it could just be me and what I'm trying to cut but if it has alot of movement it's likely the blade wont cut through it. Definitely add some kind of gripping tape, I've accidentally a few times lost grip while swinging it.
Good content - new sub
Steve, you are the best at explaining all the reasons why u do what u do. I have learned so much and I now have a great chainsaw that I use a lot , because of you. And I am a female so this is an exceptional compliment !
Wow, thanks
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon you’re welcome U deserve. The simple explanations about how things work or flow TRULY help me a great deal. I just finished cutting up some branches and I can’t believe how much better the saw cut and my arms don’t hurt AND the tension on my chain is great! I am so grateful that u get to the pt, don’t run on and make short , to the pt videos!
For sentimental reasons I got into the habit of keeping my previous dog’s collar through the loop of the handle of my saw. One day I had to take the bar off the saw while out in the field. Not having a bench that I would normally have to work from, I decided to hang the saw from a branch, putting the saw at chest height for me and found it to be a surprisingly easy place to clean the saw from!
Putting the bar back on and tightening the chain was a breeze because gravity perfectly tensioned and positioned both bar and chain.
Ever since, I use the same technique in my garage with a sturdy nail in the nail in the rafters.
Hey mate, thanks for this video. I'm the product of two small-engines mechanics, and my parents indeed taught me well, but in looking for a comprehensive video to share with others, I struggled to find many. Yours was clear and concise, and my favourite so far!
Cool, thanks
thanks Steve for that info, I never held the bar up when I tightened the chain and noticed it would get loose really fast!
Thanks Steve. Really pretty simple and straight forward but great to get the step by step when you have very little actual experience. You are a very good instructor. Cheers.
You're Welcome...and Thank You...
Great video... Exactly how I tension my chain. If I may suggest, I place a block of wood under the tip of the bar and chain so that bar is resting at its highest position as you had described by holding the bar with your hand. Using the block of wood will allow you to use both hands for adjusting chain tension and tightening the lock nuts... It's just something I've found helpful.
Thanks again for the good videos!
Great tip buddy, Thank You...
Will that allow the tension to adjust correctly? When you turn the tension screw, is it moving the bar? Or is it moving the sprocket or what?
@@thomasharp3246 It's moving the bar. The sprocket is firmly attached to the engine. Take the cover off the sprocket side, keep the bar and chain in place (takes about 3 hands, LOL) and turn the screw, watch what is happening. You should be able to see the bar move back and forth. Of course, you are going to have to put the cover back on, and readjust your chain tension.
Thats how the Stilh dealer/mechanic instructed me when 1 got my 1st saw. Thanks for posting.
You're Welcome...
I’ve been using that method for over 40 years and it works. Thanks for sharing this method. I cut 2-3 cords a year along with the other work I do in the woods and I’ve only replaced my bars 2x on my saws. I run a 024&028 Wood Boss Avs. The sprockets are in great shape. I do grease the bar tips every day and I think it helps extend the life of the bars. Cheers 🍺!
i always run the saw for half a min , turn it off and re check the tension then .
sometimes it can be sitting on the '' wrong '' part of the drive sprocket.
just something that works for me.
Thank you Steve for all your videos that make it easy for a non professional to make his own adjustments and save money by doing our own maintenance on all our gas powered toys. You have taught me so much with your easy to understand words and humor. Keep up the good work.
Thanks 👍
great job , like holding the bar up while adjusting, best part for me.
Right on buddy...
Having worked on chain saws, through the transition from lower chain speeds, to greater chain speeds, and from even professionals using used crankcase oil to the best oil they could get, the used or lower grade oils were pretty hard on any oiler system, the old Mac and Homelite systems come to mind. Your tips are something I learned the hard way. It was really hard to convince folks they should good oil, and many could not grasp the concept of a properly tensioned chain, because they should have never had a chainsaw anyway. Yours is my favorite site for any innovational info on any small engines. Thanks for your investment into the topic.
Interesting, I seem to remember reading this exact same information back in 1984 in the little booklet that came with my Farm Boss. Many, many dozens of cords later, that saw still works great. Been thru lots of chains. a couple of bars and 2 clutch housings but experience shows me that this here method works.
Thanks for sharing!
I have a Farm Boss and it is a workhorse!
From what I remember during training, you lift the chain halfway along the bar on the top, correct tension is reached when the chain guide just clears the bar. My old Husky used to rock forward onto the bench as I was tightening the nuts, that achieved the same result as holding the tip up.
I got those exact same instructions too about 35 years ago. Still got that Stihl 009.
using this method should be fine for certain length bars but when you get into longer bars you should have more clearance... there's no exact science but the longer the bar the looser the chain can and imo needs to be to work freely. as stated 20 people 20 opinions ( very roughly paraphrased :) ) so yeah just my 2 cents
Thanks Steve,
I did not know about keeping the tip up when going through the tensioning process. It's a good day when I learn something.
Take care,
Ben from Nova Scotia
Glad to help