breaking the fuel pump off is really the best solution for removing fuel pump. I was leery of doing this as well. All it took was a few Swift blows with a rubber mallet. The fuel pump housing and fuel plunger broke off flush in the block. This was scary at first but with a couple of magnets, the plunger will pull right up, at which point you can grab it with a pair of pliers. Both Parts will pull out togrther safely without dropping the plunger into the block. As for destroying a good fuel pump, you're never going to use it again anyways and no one's going to buy used mechanical fuel pump, they're not that expensive brand. I am currently installing this system and I will update as I progress.
I bought the engine kit about 3 months ago (then the weather got nasty and I put it off until this weekend . Everything went smoothly , my pump has been replaced twice so fittings at the back of the head came loose without any problems . My truck is a late 97 (98) California truck with a pulsation damper as part of the banjo bolt (it looks like the starship enterprise ) without breaking the pump off I never would have gotten it out and I had to hit it hard enough that the plunger broke off too . Then I was able work it out . My only issues were that I had to turn the fitting on the block for the passenger side fuel return to take some stress off the hose and the fuel in fitting for the supply hose to clear the y pipe . Except for my back (I hate working on cars and pickups) I'm a heavy truck mechanic and we don't have grills and fenders for my back to deal with . In the line of constructive nitpicking , when I did my electrical for my pumps (yes 2, 1 spare , I've been left stranded by a pump) I used a weather pack style relay and wire plug . Other than that this system is absolutely fantastic and anyone looking for a pump delete kit can't go wrong for simple and easy . Thank you Mark .
Got a Question please on the heating element on the old bowl i took out and put a CNC delete with new hard line and got the electric pump out in valley as well like you did, i cant really find a video that goes slow on the heater elemnt that goes where i dont know i have got about $ 16,000 dollars in parts alone on this and cant figure that out , i bought the truck for $ 1800 with 154,000 miles on it and it stayed under the tree that the old man tried to start one day going to work the sticker on the wind shield said 2012 so i just got this truck about 6 mouths ago lol, so can you help me under stand what i need to do for the heating element that was on the bowl where does it go sir i do appreciant your time on this.
I picked up this kit. My truck runs better now. Who knew... Startup is much better. It would be nice to have a printed instruction with the kit. Due to my lack of time I took the kit to a shop and had them do it. They had to watch the video. That cost me money too.
Monte Roldan Hey Mark is there anyway to increase pressure pump? Pressure off the scharder valve reads 30psi. replaced fuel line to tank with sump and filters still only getting 30psi
Check for an obstruction at the regulator: remove brass plug, spring and valve. Use compressed air (if available) to blow out the hole. Use a 23/64" drill bit and spin by hand into the hole (should turn freely). Blow out with air again if possible. Re-assemble and verify pressure.
Might as well pull the turbo and do a pedistool valve delete ive had my turbo off sooo many times thanks to a cracked turbo housing leaking oil and i thought it was the pedistool since the crack wasnt visible till the turbo was warm finally pulled it warm and found it had it down to 10 minutes to remove 15 to install the turbo lol
+Denver Boroncos Hi. Send me an email to: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com and I can send you more information. I don'r have a website, but I can take payments through Paypal.
+ps3dethman1 Send me an email to: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com and I'll send you the latest price sheet and answer any other questions you have. My price is roughly half of what the bigger aftermarket diesel suppliers charge.
Send me an email and I'll send the current price list. My complete kit is half the cost of the bigger "commercial" names that produce fuel kits for the OBS trucks. Email me at: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com
Hi Cody. Yes still going strong with the fuel kits. Best way to reach me is email: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com Or my Facebook page where I list the complete fuel kits for sale: facebook.com/Gazzottos-Garage-213534302388772/
Not sure of the answer. The pre-filter I use is also a water seperator but a large micron. The secondary filter is a fine micron. Which cat filter are you thinking of and will it go before or after the pump?
Mark Fugazzotto it would have to be after the water separater it's the 1r-0750 its a better filter as it filters 2 microns we use on the CAT C12 engines.
The complete kit is listed on the link below or you can email me for current pricing: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com facebook.com/pg/Gazzottos-Garage-213534302388772/shop/?ref=page_internal
Hi Mark, Just checking to see if you are still making the kits? I sent a email the other day but I wasn't sure how often you check your email.ThanksBob
![เปิดคำทำนาย นอสตราดามุส - บาบา วานก้า ปี 2025 คนทั่วโลกต้องเจออะไรบ้าง? | แฉ 11 ธ.ค. 67 [2/3] |GMM25](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xmTIKWJUMPM/mqdefault.jpg)
Awesome and very informative video. Well done Sir 💪
breaking the fuel pump off is really the best solution for removing fuel pump. I was leery of doing this as well. All it took was a few Swift blows with a rubber mallet. The fuel pump housing and fuel plunger broke off flush in the block. This was scary at first but with a couple of magnets, the plunger will pull right up, at which point you can grab it with a pair of pliers. Both Parts will pull out togrther safely without dropping the plunger into the block. As for destroying a good fuel pump, you're never going to use it again anyways and no one's going to buy used mechanical fuel pump, they're not that expensive brand. I am currently installing this system and I will update as I progress.
I am inlove with ALL this simple set up. Thank You, my 7.3 will be happy with it.
I bought the engine kit about 3 months ago (then the weather got nasty and I put it off until this weekend .
Everything went smoothly , my pump has been replaced twice so fittings at the back of the head came loose without any problems . My truck is a late 97 (98) California truck with a pulsation damper as part of the banjo bolt
(it looks like the starship enterprise ) without breaking the pump off I never would have gotten it out and I had to hit it hard enough that the plunger broke off too . Then I was able work it out . My only issues were that I had to turn the fitting on the block for the passenger side fuel return to take some stress off the hose and the fuel in fitting for the supply hose to clear the y pipe . Except for my back (I hate working on cars and pickups) I'm a heavy truck mechanic and we don't have grills and fenders for my back to deal with .
In the line of constructive nitpicking , when I did my electrical for my pumps (yes 2, 1 spare , I've been left stranded by a pump) I used a weather pack style relay and wire plug . Other than that this system is absolutely fantastic and anyone looking for a pump delete kit can't go wrong for simple and easy .
Thank you Mark .
man this looks beautiful, you should just offer a service to do this for all the 7.3 trucks in your area!
Got a Question please on the heating element on the old bowl i took out and put a CNC delete with new hard line and got the electric pump out in valley as well like you did, i cant really find a video that goes slow on the heater elemnt that goes where i dont know i have got about $ 16,000 dollars in parts alone on this and cant figure that out , i bought the truck for $ 1800 with 154,000 miles on it and it stayed under the tree that the old man tried to start one day going to work the sticker on the wind shield said 2012 so i just got this truck about 6 mouths ago lol, so can you help me under stand what i need to do for the heating element that was on the bowl where does it go sir i do appreciant your time on this.
I picked up this kit. My truck runs better now. Who knew... Startup is much better. It would be nice to have a printed instruction with the kit. Due to my lack of time I took the kit to a shop and had them do it. They had to watch the video. That cost me money too.
I will be emailing you shortly for pricing on the fuel bowl delete
I’m looking for fuel lines to run from valley down past manifold. For JIC connections to Parker Hose. Is this something you make or would sell? Thanks
Can u put the engine on a stand with the uppipes?
Mark I like what I see how do I buy it
Is there a link to buy this fuel kit?
Monte Roldan Hey Mark is there anyway to increase pressure pump? Pressure off the scharder valve reads 30psi.
replaced fuel line to tank with sump and filters still only getting 30psi
Check for an obstruction at the regulator: remove brass plug, spring and valve. Use compressed air (if available) to blow out the hole. Use a 23/64" drill bit and spin by hand into the hole (should turn freely). Blow out with air again if possible. Re-assemble and verify pressure.
@@markfuga Thank you sir, for your quick response and integrity, rare in today's society. Love your product.
How can i order @@markfuga
@@kel601mississippi Send me an email: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com
Might as well pull the turbo and do a pedistool valve delete ive had my turbo off sooo many times thanks to a cracked turbo housing leaking oil and i thought it was the pedistool since the crack wasnt visible till the turbo was warm finally pulled it warm and found it had it down to 10 minutes to remove 15 to install the turbo lol
thank you MARK HAVE A GOOD DAY
Can you buy a spare fuel pump to carry
how do i get in you to order kit
good day mark the block kit is how muck to send to canada .does it come with a pressure gage thank you ken
Hi Ken, To Canada, the fuel block kit, with a pressure gauge, is $240 USD.
Any way to reach Mark about one of these kits?
Send me an email: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com
How much are your kits
where would the sensors from the fuel bowl go
You don't need it .
Do make kit ford a 85 6.9
Do you still sell these kits? Thx
Yes. Email me for details: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com
Where can i buy your product, do you have a website?
+Denver Boroncos Hi. Send me an email to: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com and I can send you more information. I don'r have a website, but I can take payments through Paypal.
how much do you charge for the entire e fuel set up?
+ps3dethman1 Send me an email to: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com and I'll send you the latest price sheet and answer any other questions you have. My price is roughly half of what the bigger aftermarket diesel suppliers charge.
+Wvo Quailwvo Reply sent... I believe.. Presuming that was you I just replied to. If not, please resend email.
Are you still selling this kit????
Yes. Email me at: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com for more information.
umm...ur valve covers are on wrong. you've the drivers side on the passenger side and vice-versa.
Yeah , the crank case vent is on the wring side.
What is the price for the your whole kit atm?
Send me an email and I'll send the current price list. My complete kit is half the cost of the bigger "commercial" names that produce fuel kits for the OBS trucks. Email me at: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com
Mark Fugazzotto
Mark Fugazzotto can you email me a price on this kit?
Mark Fugazzotto price for kit obs 95 f250
do you still sale this?
Hi Cody. Yes still going strong with the fuel kits. Best way to reach me is email: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com
Or my Facebook page where I list the complete fuel kits for sale: facebook.com/Gazzottos-Garage-213534302388772/
What about using a CAT fuel filter eliminates the pre and secondary filter
Not sure of the answer. The pre-filter I use is also a water seperator but a large micron. The secondary filter is a fine micron. Which cat filter are you thinking of and will it go before or after the pump?
Mark Fugazzotto it would have to be after the water separater it's the 1r-0750 its a better filter as it filters 2 microns we use on the CAT C12 engines.
The valves covers are backwards haha
That's a t4 thing. A lot of guys do it for the ccv to be up front for a catch can
Ryan Long that’s not a t4 on his engine
Mark just emailed you for pricing.
What's the price
The complete kit is listed on the link below or you can email me for current pricing: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com
facebook.com/pg/Gazzottos-Garage-213534302388772/shop/?ref=page_internal
anyway to contact you?
yes:
mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com
or
facebook.com/pg/Gazzottos-Garage-213534302388772/photos/?tab=album&album_id=213537872388415
Hi Mark, Just checking to see if you are still making the kits? I sent a email the other day but I wasn't sure how often you check your email.ThanksBob
Hi Bob, yes still going strong. Sorry, I didn't get your email. Can you re-send to: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com
Why don't you just use a banjo block that way you can use factory hard lines and easier for the consumer and easier on you
maybe not cheaper but easier
sent you an Email mark
interested in the kit email please
Sure. Please send me an email at: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com
Email Sent.
Do you still sell these kits?
Hi Phil, Yes. Send me an email for more information: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com