Man that ole 7.3 starts nice! My first truck was a 95 7.3 & have many fond memories driving, & enjoying the ole girl. I drive an IDI rn, but I miss my ole truck. Idi’s are stupid simple but 7.3 Powerstrokes are Heaven. I miss the sounds of the ole truck.
While I love Mark’s videos, anyone swapping a Powerstroke should know that the steps outlined here will work for a manual trans swap only. If you’re trying to swap a PS with an E4OD or 4R100, etc, electronically controlled transmission, you do need the gauges as well as the speed sensor from the rear axle. I suppose it’s possible to use another speed sensor in place of the rear axle, but that’s the stock system. This is an input that tells the trans when to shift.
This is my dream to have an old truck of that size and do a swap. This was my intention with my tree service and still is just never have time or funds. It would serve as the chipper truck I was going to name my company flashback trees service. It is still in the to do list. When I find the truck I'm going to make it happen. Love the rig.
Thanks.I'm having fun with the conversion and have made good progress since makiing this video. My goal is to complete the swap this winter and be ready for spring cruising. I just added a link at the start of the video that points to the message board thread I've been posting my progress to.
Awesome Video my friend i recently pulled a whole swap from a 1995 E-350 ambulance with an enormous wiring harness and have been digging for a video or link on thinning down to the bare essentials to go into a 1978 f250 and this is perfect!
+GregMitz If you need help with the wiring let me know. I created a 1.5 hour video of a 96 F series wire harness that I modified for a customer that was swapping the PSD into a 67 F250. I've been sending the video collection out on flash drive for $30 to help people with the wire mods. Your ambulance harness is the same, just all the circuits are redundant which means you have twice the number of wires to deal with.
hi, we emailed back and forth a few months ago. I'm in the process of wiring the in cab and under hood boxes, at 5:34 you talk about dedicated wire to the PCM "keep alive"...is that the yellow wire to the switch? just want to be sure to power the PCM properly and if I can using the stock fused wiring...and not fry the PCM either. I basically gutted the cab harness of the radio/HVAC/ABS extra wiring and using the stock ignition wiring to aftermarket key/push start and stock turn signal wiring for an after market column. Engine harness/fuse box was left alone for the lighting and engine operations. thanks Mark!! once I get her running, i'll be in touch about the EFuel and cleaning up the engine!!!
Yes. The large yellow wire will provide the PCM keep alive. That wire supplies the "main power" into the fuse box. The PCM keep alive is picked up out of the fuse box. Send progress pictures when you get a moment.
@@markfuga YOU ROCK!!! so the PCM and IDM will just power up when I turn the key on using the stock wiring (modified to a push start/key set up). awesome!!
@@Lowzone73 yes. When power is applied to the large red wire with green stripe (fuse 22) the PCM and IDM will energize. Apply power to the starter relay and the engine should fire up.
Injectors are Swamps 175, 30%, HPOP is Terminators T500, Turbo is Beans D66. I have a TS 6 position chip, but that won't go on until I get the engine setup in the new truck. Since I'm giving all these vendors a "plug" I should give one to myself: My engine side E-fuel setup which I make and sell to all the DIY guys who like to save money.
Since pulling the truck apart I've changed the HPOP and injectors so there hasn't been any miles driven on those upgrades yet. The high pressure oil system still has air in it and that won't bleed out until I can drive the engine.... which I am itchn' to do :)
@@markfuga I probably will need help. I'm hoping to find a manual transmission that goes with a 97 7.3, or information on if mine will even accept one. I want to do a test fit before I get to far into wiring and such so I will know how well this will work. Then I will get components to test start and if it goes well then put it place and work in the body holes. And exhaust. And suspension...
currently doing a full 85 f150 body swap onto a f250 7.3 frame both manual but would love more info on the stand alone harness ! due to be trying to keep the bullnose interior setup and looking at your wiers is just brings me anxiety lol
Mark, thank you for this video I am currently in the process of paring down a 01 7.3l Powerstroke for my 69 Lincoln Continental, could you help? Also would like to find out more about your EFI setup.
Great video! Im doing a 92 7.3 IDI to a 97 7.3 DI. Would I need to keep the same items you did? Could I run all the normal wiring under the dash? Thanks
The only items you need from the 97 truck interior is the accelerator pedal and barometer. It's also nice to have the data link connector so you can attach scan tools. If you have an automatic transmission then you'll also need to keep the speedometer module to pass the speed signal to the PCM. If you have a manual transmission then the speedo is not needed.
cubkid411 I'm making another video that goes through the entire wire modifications from start to finish. I have 1 hour and 18 minutes recorded so I'll have to edit it down so I can upload to youtube. A fellow enthusiast paid me to modify his harness from a 96 that he's swapping into a 67 F100 and I'm recording the entire process. Feel free to email me and I can send more specifics and attachments which is easier than through youtube comments: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com
I've been doing the wire modifications as a service for a little over a year now and have done about 8 harnesses for guys. I charge $150 plus the return shipping. I tried going the "video" route but it's tough to explain all the changes in a video and it only raised more questions than it answered.
Yes, at the alternator, the green wire with the red stripe. It's the "initial power source" that energizes the alternator so it will produce electricity. Once the alternator is spinning and producing it's own power it switches internally and cuts off the feed from the green/red wire. If you add a light a bulb along the wire (in series) you'll get an indicator the alternator is functioning properly. The gauge cluster is not needed for the engine to operator properly. However, if you have an automatic transmission and you want it controlled by the PCM, then you'll need to setup the PSOM so it can supply the proper speed signal to the PCM. If you have a manual transmission, then you're done after getting the alternator working.
Yes. What year is your harness from? I need the complete under hood harness (fuse box only, not engine) and the under dash harness. You'll also need the accelerator pedal. If you have an automatic transmission then you'll also need to keep the speedometer module. I charge $325 for the service.
Mark Fugazzotto ok where do I get your information I have everything in a tote already. I’ll just have to take the engine harness out of it. It came out of a 1995 e350
Hi Nolan, I tried creating a video to show modifications from start to finish but it turned into an hour and a half video and I just wasn't satisfied with the results. I've been doing the mods to peoples harnesses for a while now to help them with their swap. All you need to do is box up you under hood harness and cab harness and mail it to me. I'll make all the mods, label everything and send it back.
Sure. Let me know what questions I can help with. Something to consider since you're swapping to a truck that's within the same body style (assuming your donor is pre 99) would be to swap the dash and complete wire harness to the 91 which would simplify things.
Mark Fugazzotto I got that diagnostic electrical book just need to know what wires to cut and which ones to keep any information on this will help me thank you so much I appreciate all the help
Yes. Send me your under hood harness and cab harness and I will trim it down to only whats needed to operate the engine and transmission. email me for more info: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com
No. The 58 truck has a 2 speed rear (6.50:1 and 8.30:1). The truck is EXTREMELY peppy with these lower gears and runs a little high RPM on the highway. Overall it's a strong runner. I did investigate a new center section with a 5.13:1 to help lower RPM on the highway, but finding a center section for the 58 axle isn't easy. In the end I just stuck with what it's got.
hey Mark, I'm doing this swap to and '86 Ford one ton and I saw you kept the factory gauges for the Chevy. I wanted to know what you did about the gauge wires for the computer? Any chance I could get email address?
Sure. email is: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com Short answer is: if you're using an automatic transmission then the only part of the gauge cluster you need to keep is the speedometer module which passes the speed signal to the computer. The computer doesn't use any of the other gauges for operation.
Mark Fugazzotto hey mark, I had a question about the powerstroke swap you were working on if you don't mind answering it. Have you wired up the data plug and tried to connect to autoenginuity or another scan tool? I swapped a 7.3 into a 91 and it will start but no communication and the throttle pedal doesn't work. Just curious if you have had any of these issues. Thanks Nick
Sure: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com Short answer is the computer doesn't need anything from the gauge cluster to operate the engine. If you have an automatic transmission then the computer does need the speedometer module wired in so it can get the VSS signal from the rear axle (Speedometer only, no other gauges needed).
The throttle pedal issue is most likely a missing voltage at the "idle validation switch". The accelerator pedal assembly has a wire that went to the under dash fuse box where it picked up a switched 12 volts. Did you re-wire 12 volts to it? The data link connector has two ground wires, one constant 12 volt wire and three wires that go back to the computer: a twisted pair (tan, pink) and a purple wire.
I suppose I have an unsolvable issue then. Currently to get it running I have the red/green ignition powered and crank the starter and it runs, I also have the 3 wires to the throttle hooked up and its giving a proper signal voltage .6 idle to 3.8 wot to the PCM along with 12 volts to the validation switch when pressed. All the wires have proper continuity and I have used two different pcm's. I figured it was something in the engine harness and changed it for another and can't figure it out. I wanted to know if the throttle and data wires needed anything else from the dash to work, as looking through the evtm it doesn't. But if yours hooked up without issues I must have a harness issue that I can't find.
Yes. Worked on it over the winter and just set the cab down 2 weeks ago. I just updated this video and added two links between 00:16 and 00:43 that take you to the recent videos I made. First video is 34 minutes and is full explenation of everything done to the recipient truck. Second video is 2 minutes and just shows the engine with the cab set. Almost ready to fire up the engine for the first time in its new home and I'll make a video of that too.
Mailing address is: 38276 Hunts End Place Leesburg VA 20175 there's a dot "." between my first and last name in my email address: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com
OK thanks man appreciate it ....i've never send something to someone before and payed them for doing.. I will get it back right lol?? And do I send the gas pedal and data link connector too??
Man that ole 7.3 starts nice! My first truck was a 95 7.3 & have many fond memories driving, & enjoying the ole girl. I drive an IDI rn, but I miss my ole truck.
Idi’s are stupid simple but 7.3 Powerstrokes are Heaven. I miss the sounds of the ole truck.
While I love Mark’s videos, anyone swapping a Powerstroke should know that the steps outlined here will work for a manual trans swap only. If you’re trying to swap a PS with an E4OD or 4R100, etc, electronically controlled transmission, you do need the gauges as well as the speed sensor from the rear axle. I suppose it’s possible to use another speed sensor in place of the rear axle, but that’s the stock system. This is an input that tells the trans when to shift.
This is my dream to have an old truck of that size and do a swap. This was my intention with my tree service and still is just never have time or funds. It would serve as the chipper truck I was going to name my company flashback trees service. It is still in the to do list. When I find the truck I'm going to make it happen. Love the rig.
Oh my God that truck is beautiful. I'm subscribed.
Thanks.I'm having fun with the conversion and have made good progress since makiing this video. My goal is to complete the swap this winter and be ready for spring cruising.
I just added a link at the start of the video that points to the message board thread I've been posting my progress to.
I’d like to see some more of your wiring on this do you have anymore videos
Awesome Video my friend i recently pulled a whole swap from a 1995 E-350 ambulance with an enormous wiring harness and have been digging for a video or link on thinning down to the bare essentials to go into a 1978 f250 and this is perfect!
+GregMitz If you need help with the wiring let me know. I created a 1.5 hour video of a 96 F series wire harness that I modified for a customer that was swapping the PSD into a 67 F250. I've been sending the video collection out on flash drive for $30 to help people with the wire mods. Your ambulance harness is the same, just all the circuits are redundant which means you have twice the number of wires to deal with.
Can you still see comments on this video?
This is awesome! Love it!
hi, we emailed back and forth a few months ago. I'm in the process of wiring the in cab and under hood boxes, at 5:34 you talk about dedicated wire to the PCM "keep alive"...is that the yellow wire to the switch? just want to be sure to power the PCM properly and if I can using the stock fused wiring...and not fry the PCM either. I basically gutted the cab harness of the radio/HVAC/ABS extra wiring and using the stock ignition wiring to aftermarket key/push start and stock turn signal wiring for an after market column. Engine harness/fuse box was left alone for the lighting and engine operations. thanks Mark!! once I get her running, i'll be in touch about the EFuel and cleaning up the engine!!!
Yes. The large yellow wire will provide the PCM keep alive. That wire supplies the "main power" into the fuse box. The PCM keep alive is picked up out of the fuse box. Send progress pictures when you get a moment.
@@markfuga YOU ROCK!!! so the PCM and IDM will just power up when I turn the key on using the stock wiring (modified to a push start/key set up). awesome!!
@@Lowzone73 yes. When power is applied to the large red wire with green stripe (fuse 22) the PCM and IDM will energize. Apply power to the starter relay and the engine should fire up.
Injectors are Swamps 175, 30%, HPOP is Terminators T500, Turbo is Beans D66. I have a TS 6 position chip, but that won't go on until I get the engine setup in the new truck. Since I'm giving all these vendors a "plug" I should give one to myself: My engine side E-fuel setup which I make and sell to all the DIY guys who like to save money.
love this, I am a power stroke fan and want to do this with an older cab over international or etc..
I’m super interested in this. I’ve got something similar to do with a 96 power stroke.
Awesome project! one of the coolest things ive seen on youtube!
Hi Mark nice work. I have a 2001 t444e and want to run the ford psd computer on it. Can you do a wiring harness for it?
Since pulling the truck apart I've changed the HPOP and injectors so there hasn't been any miles driven on those upgrades yet. The high pressure oil system still has air in it and that won't bleed out until I can drive the engine.... which I am itchn' to do :)
I’m interested in your flash drive for the wiring
I'm working in doing this with a 46 Ford but I bought an orphan engine so some wiring but nothing else yet
Let me know if you need any help. You'll need the under hood harness (fuse box) and just a couple wiring components from the cab
@@markfuga I probably will need help. I'm hoping to find a manual transmission that goes with a 97 7.3, or information on if mine will even accept one. I want to do a test fit before I get to far into wiring and such so I will know how well this will work. Then I will get components to test start and if it goes well then put it place and work in the body holes. And exhaust. And suspension...
You senor are awsome I’m doing the same swap on 1979 f150
currently doing a full 85 f150 body swap onto a f250 7.3 frame both manual but would love more info on the stand alone harness ! due to be trying to keep the bullnose interior setup and looking at your wiers is just brings me anxiety lol
Mark, thank you for this video I am currently in the process of paring down a 01 7.3l Powerstroke for my 69 Lincoln Continental, could you help? Also would like to find out more about your EFI setup.
Great video, very helpful! I've havent seen a 7.3 truck with coil overs or is that a conversion a previous owner did?
What does the big yellow wire hook up to my wiring burnt would like help on alternator wires and big yellow wire goes
Mark are you still selling the wiring guide in flash drive?
sweet chowerstroke!
hi dad yes it is your kid katie
Are you still converting the stock 97 harness to stand alone? I have one i need done. I can ship it to you and pay via paypal or credit card. Thanks.
What wires did u use for the altnator I see the green one but it has 3 wires
You impress me greatly
Where did you get your wheels? Didnt that truck come with multi piece rim? Maybe rh5 widow makers
Great video! Im doing a 92 7.3 IDI to a 97 7.3 DI. Would I need to keep the same items you did? Could I run all the normal wiring under the dash? Thanks
The only items you need from the 97 truck interior is the accelerator pedal and barometer. It's also nice to have the data link connector so you can attach scan tools. If you have an automatic transmission then you'll also need to keep the speedometer module to pass the speed signal to the PCM. If you have a manual transmission then the speedo is not needed.
would you be able to go in more depth of how you hooked up the ignition switch?
Being that you re wired it and not using any of the interior wiring from the parts truck
cubkid411 I'm making another video that goes through the entire wire modifications from start to finish. I have 1 hour and 18 minutes recorded so I'll have to edit it down so I can upload to youtube. A fellow enthusiast paid me to modify his harness from a 96 that he's swapping into a 67 F100 and I'm recording the entire process. Feel free to email me and I can send more specifics and attachments which is easier than through youtube comments: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com
+Mark Fugazzotto How much did you charge him? I'm about to start building a 65.
I've been doing the wire modifications as a service for a little over a year now and have done about 8 harnesses for guys. I charge $150 plus the return shipping. I tried going the "video" route but it's tough to explain all the changes in a video and it only raised more questions than it answered.
sounded like the ebpv was on when you started the 7.3, and any reason it took so long to start?
do you have to have the gauges connected to make the engine run
Mark where did u get the diagram for the plug going to the firewall
I need to identify the other wire
The large firewall plug or one specific wire?
The large firewall plug or one specific wire?
The large firewall plug or one specific wire?
The large firewall plug or one specific wire?
The large firewall plug or one specific wire?
How much would you charge to modify my harness so where I can just plug and play??
So can I hook the green wire to 12v that way my altnator works I did a swap I do t want to use the cluster gauge
Yes, at the alternator, the green wire with the red stripe. It's the "initial power source" that energizes the alternator so it will produce electricity. Once the alternator is spinning and producing it's own power it switches internally and cuts off the feed from the green/red wire. If you add a light a bulb along the wire (in series) you'll get an indicator the alternator is functioning properly.
The gauge cluster is not needed for the engine to operator properly. However, if you have an automatic transmission and you want it controlled by the PCM, then you'll need to setup the PSOM so it can supply the proper speed signal to the PCM. If you have a manual transmission, then you're done after getting the alternator working.
Thanks? I hope that's a good thing :)
Would you consider building a stand alone for me. Is so what would you charge. I have the original harness
Yes. What year is your harness from? I need the complete under hood harness (fuse box only, not engine) and the under dash harness. You'll also need the accelerator pedal. If you have an automatic transmission then you'll also need to keep the speedometer module. I charge $325 for the service.
Mark Fugazzotto ok where do I get your information I have everything in a tote already. I’ll just have to take the engine harness out of it. It came out of a 1995 e350
hey mark. I'm doing this swap now and your expertise would be greatly appreciated. What color is the pcm keep alive wire?
Solid yellow, Pin 55
Yes its a good thing
You think you could post a wiring diagram of what you did?
Hi Nolan, I tried creating a video to show modifications from start to finish but it turned into an hour and a half video and I just wasn't satisfied with the results. I've been doing the mods to peoples harnesses for a while now to help them with their swap. All you need to do is box up you under hood harness and cab harness and mail it to me. I'll make all the mods, label everything and send it back.
That would be great! Post the mailing address and I'll send it to you. I will pay you too.
Oh yeah btw that is a beautiful truck
How much is that fuel block??
o I see, what did you put in it for injectors and hpop?, and I sent you a pm on psn
Maybe I missed it but wouldn't it have been a thousand times easier to just use the whole harness from the donor truck and just plug it all back up...
I'm doing a 95 psd in a 91 f250 I got that book ordered but would greatly appreciate some help and some tips thank you
Sure. Let me know what questions I can help with. Something to consider since you're swapping to a truck that's within the same body style (assuming your donor is pre 99) would be to swap the dash and complete wire harness to the 91 which would simplify things.
Yes it was a running drive truck 91 f250diesel that had the idi in it and I do have all the wiring harness from the doner truck
Mark Fugazzotto I got that diagnostic electrical book just need to know what wires to cut and which ones to keep any information on this will help me thank you so much I appreciate all the help
Sure. Send me an email to: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com
Are you still building harnesses? or selling how to instructions?
Yes. Send me your under hood harness and cab harness and I will trim it down to only whats needed to operate the engine and transmission. email me for more info: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com
@@markfuga just came across this. Are you still doing harnesses?
Would love to send you my wiring harness for my 7.3 swap on my 66 f600 what's the best way to talk to you about that?
email: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com
I tried to email you it says it's not correct
You have a radio voice
Did you switch rear end gears?
No. The 58 truck has a 2 speed rear (6.50:1 and 8.30:1). The truck is EXTREMELY peppy with these lower gears and runs a little high RPM on the highway. Overall it's a strong runner. I did investigate a new center section with a 5.13:1 to help lower RPM on the highway, but finding a center section for the 58 axle isn't easy. In the end I just stuck with what it's got.
hey Mark, I'm doing this swap to and '86 Ford one ton and I saw you kept the factory gauges for the Chevy. I wanted to know what you did about the gauge wires for the computer? Any chance I could get email address?
Sure. email is: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com
Short answer is: if you're using an automatic transmission then the only part of the gauge cluster you need to keep is the speedometer module which passes the speed signal to the computer. The computer doesn't use any of the other gauges for operation.
Mark Fugazzotto hey mark, I had a question about the powerstroke swap you were working on if you don't mind answering it. Have you wired up the data plug and tried to connect to autoenginuity or another scan tool? I swapped a 7.3 into a 91 and it will start but no communication and the throttle pedal doesn't work. Just curious if you have had any of these issues.
Thanks
Nick
Sure: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com Short answer is the computer doesn't need anything from the gauge cluster to operate the engine. If you have an automatic transmission then the computer does need the speedometer module wired in so it can get the VSS signal from the rear axle (Speedometer only, no other gauges needed).
The throttle pedal issue is most likely a missing voltage at the "idle validation switch". The accelerator pedal assembly has a wire that went to the under dash fuse box where it picked up a switched 12 volts. Did you re-wire 12 volts to it?
The data link connector has two ground wires, one constant 12 volt wire and three wires that go back to the computer: a twisted pair (tan, pink) and a purple wire.
I suppose I have an unsolvable issue then. Currently to get it running I have the red/green ignition powered and crank the starter and it runs, I also have the 3 wires to the throttle hooked up and its giving a proper signal voltage .6 idle to 3.8 wot to the PCM along with 12 volts to the validation switch when pressed. All the wires have proper continuity and I have used two different pcm's. I figured it was something in the engine harness and changed it for another and can't figure it out. I wanted to know if the throttle and data wires needed anything else from the dash to work, as looking through the evtm it doesn't. But if yours hooked up without issues I must have a harness issue that I can't find.
Do you have a source for the rubber boot on the transmition?
Google search this part number and let me know if it's the boot your reffering to: F5TZ-7277-A
Is she bolted in truck now?
Yes. Worked on it over the winter and just set the cab down 2 weeks ago. I just updated this video and added two links between 00:16 and 00:43 that take you to the recent videos I made. First video is 34 minutes and is full explenation of everything done to the recipient truck. Second video is 2 minutes and just shows the engine with the cab set. Almost ready to fire up the engine for the first time in its new home and I'll make a video of that too.
and i we did the pup
What is your mailing address?? I will send mine this Wednesday
Mailing address is: 38276 Hunts End Place Leesburg VA 20175
there's a dot "." between my first and last name in my email address: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com
OK thanks man appreciate it ....i've never send something to someone before and payed them for doing.. I will get it back right lol?? And do I send the gas pedal and data link connector too??
I've been looking for this info for years!
@Dobbies Revenge Yes. You're welcome to come out anytime. I'm in Leesburg VA. email me: mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com
mark do you have a email address at all i need help .thanks
- nick
mark.fugazzotto@gmail.com
@@markfuga thank you i will email soon as i can and have you used a 99-03 7.3 powerstroke for swap at all