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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- How to replace an OBS 94-97 7.3 Powerstroke mechanical fuel pump. This video covers the general procedure required to replace the valley mounted mechanical lift pump, for 1994-1997 Ford trucks with the 7.3 Powerstroke diesel engine.
Owned a euro repair business for 33 years. Most of my family owns euro cars. I love diesels and have a 96 7.3 that I really enjoy. Nice to see a gear head talk plain and simple through a repair video and you can actually see what you are doing. Another reason I love the 7.3, so easy to work on. Cheers for taking the time to make and share all that you do. Thank you!
I finally found by far the best video of this install thankyou sir!
Just replaced my dad's fuel pump on his 96 today thanks to your video. Awesome video. The only issue I had was putting the banjo nut back on. That thing was a pain in the ballzzzzz. Thanks for posting!!!
Oh, I just replace the pump yesterday on my 96 and I’m putting it back together today, that banjo nut was the worst part of the entire process
1995 f350 7.3. I loosened the fuel filter and it allowed me to move it forward enough that I didn't have to disconnect any of the other lines. Saved a lot of time.
Your video is awesome and very well done. Thank you. Parry
Nice video, but two things to note. If you drain or pump the fuel bowl out first, you can save spilling a pint of diesel allnover. Second I would not remove the pressure regulator until I had the fuel bowl out on the bench, there is a plastic ball behind that screen on some models that will fall out and never be seen again.
Might have found myself on this situation. Any advice
Can't thank you enough for making this video, had to replace my '97s lift pump because it was fuel starving under load and your video was the perfect guide for getting the job done. Every detail, right down to shorting the starter relay so that you don't fire the injectors. Thank you!
I gotta chime in too. Hehehh This video gave me the courage to do everything in here. 😊 I didnt want to hurt my truck so i watched step by step....kinda seemed like cheating hehehh. Very good video. Keep going!!!❤
Thank you! You were awesome at describing what we needed to do! You’re an example on how to post, how to videos. I just recently bought the exact truck except white. I have a fuel leak weeping out the bottom of pump. I think this is what I need to do to fix the issue.
Very good video on all the steps needed for this job. The only I found a little difficult was taking off and putting on the Banjo Bolt behind the pump.
Great video. I learned a lot from this video and now I’m way less confused about how the fuel system works. You have a excellent way of explaining things. Thanks again
Great video! Never done this type of work before but got the confidence through your video to take it on. Took me a couple hours after I grabbed the tools. The banjo bolt sucks...Saved me some money and taught me some really valuable info. Keep up the videos please! I'll be back to your channel when the next part breaks hahah. Thank you!
This was super helpful. I was able to get my truck back on the road! Thank you. I ended up having to replace my fuel pump as well. I was only able to build up maybe 40 psi according to my fuel pressure gauge. I was also under the impression that these trucks had a fuel pump in the tank as well. But thanks to you I was able to learn that is no the case. I am more familiar with the gas stuff. This in my first diesel. Anyway thanks again for the help.
Thank you so much. Thanks to your video I learned something new and spent 100 bucks instead of 1600! I’m so grateful for your amazing directions!
Thank you very much for one of the better (by far) made how to videos I've seen on you tube. We actually got to see what you were doing. And your narrative filled in the blanks.
Very informative video for someone who doesn't do it for a living.
Subscribed
Thank you, I'm glad I could help!
Hi what happens if diesel gets in the houl where the pomp go
@@filemonaguirre3039if you are talking about the hole in the top of the block, where the fuel pump plunger goes into…, (depending on how much fuel might have gone down into the block), you should consider doing an oil & filter change. If you believe a large amount went down it, it has the potential to thin out your oil, thus compromising its’ lubrication of all the internal moving parts (i.e., crankshaft, cam shaft, rod bearings etc.,)…
Great video, talked me into doing it myself and saving a few hundred bucks. Banjo bolt literally took me 35 minutes to get off but less than 5 to to get on new lift pump.
Thank you so much for this video! Your description, tips, and excellent camera skills gave me the confidence that I could do this. Thank you thank you thank you
Great video, showing exactly what need to be pulled loose etc, thank you so much!!
Sure thing, I'm glad the video helped you out!
Hey man, thank you so much for posting this. It really helped me out. I’m replacing my lift pump, all the fuel lines because they are old and cracked, the banjo nut gaskets, and the O-rings for the water/fuel separator. I used a Kobalt wrench and heated it with a welder to bend it, and ground it down to get it off
I just had a guy looking at my 97 and he said I need to do this. Thanks for the good video!
I have watched so many videos today, finally something helpful on the internet
Thanx for video I'm diving into my 97 have had low power checking reg screen for shure mine quite running in equipment yard no fuel in filter bowel thanx cheers 🥂 😊
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video.
It was enough to push me over the edge into doing myself.
I have no idea how much I saved, but I bet it was a nice chunk of change!
Sure thing! I thank you for leaving such a kind comment. I'm definitely glad I could help! It's makes it more worthwhile to hear stories like yours to encourage me to keep filming when stuff breaks down. Cheers!
@@Rnddiesel how long toked you to do it , and how much money you saved if someone else it would be done
@@karmevincent I want to say it took me around 4-5 hours to do the whole thing, but bear in mind I was filming the video and working slow to make sure I did everything right. I have no real idea as to how much money I saved by doing it myself, I've never actually taken any of my vehicles to a 'mechanic.' If I were to guess, maybe I saved $200-300 by doing it myself, but hopefully someone else with more experience with that can chime it.
Thanks your a nice vloger, I learned a lot, nice to know about that cam Rod, my truck is a 1997 7.3 fsuperduty 450 ,and my problem is fuel getting leaking into the valley, I’m trying little rubber fuel lines, nice thanks for your expertise, th,BigAl California.
I've got the same truck with the same issue, was the fuel pump your problem or was it the lines?
No , my fuel leak was a rotted hose on the high pressure from the bowl on the bottom, But my new problem is 1 somone drilled a hole in my fuel tank, and patched it with the stick of puddly, I don’t remember the name , but it patch the hole 🕳, it was 3/8 hole that the heroin attic Tweaker idiot thief around the corner drilled in it, So my problem 2 I started the truck ,it ran fine for six miles out to the tire shop, ( I made the mistake of flipping the tank switch, will I had junk and. Debris in the bottom of the tank, thats the one that had the hole, and when I switched to the back tank it started missing so I flipped the switch a couple of times , well I had not put any new fuel at this point, and now after putting new fuel filter, and blowing air back to the tank from the Schrader valve on the side ( drivers side next to the little sensor , and I unplugged that sensor but now I can’t find the wire to put back on, ( I’m not sure if that will keep it from starting) ,
How fast should that pump flow Diesel to the filter, ??!! I have been trying to get started with not starting yet , I have ran the battery’s down , wow your started right up , so my is like it has water or something, but I put new Diesel in the front tank 9 gallons, anyway thanks BigAl California. I know the hose was cracked, if you could, have you watched the fuel rise in the filter canister with the filter top off , how fast will your truck flow fuel into the filter canisters, ??!! Thanks BigAl California.
Thank you I am taking this whole system out to get at that turbo pedestal this was a great help
Just did one of these for the first time, after 25 plus years wrenching it was tricky but doable. It was so stuck in there the bottom snout broke on the way out... Didn't lose anything
Good video a couple tips. To help unscrew the banjo bolt use a finger and a small flathead to help turn in the tight spot. I didn’t take the bowl out of you maneuver it around it gives you enough room to get the hoses off. Then the bottom hose clamps up when you reinstall to save a future time
thank you for this video!! got a messs with fuel on top on the motor, going to change all hoses and lift pump tomorrow,!!
.. I'm on my second fuel pump. Not removing water separator, Early on. Was puzzling.. you picked up on it.. Great DiY..👍👍
This was my first time changing a the fuel pump, and I really didn't know what all I'd have to pull. You know how it goes, you always try take off as little as possible when working on something, if it ain't broke don't fix it kind of mentality. Hope the video helped, and thank you for the compliments!
@@Rnddiesel still a good DIY.. I need to do my own fuel pickup and a tank now.. I'm tempted to cut a hole in the bed of the truck to gain access do you have any suggestions.. should I just drop the tanks
@@tombrady6361 If you can get one set of extra hands, the easiest thing to do is pull the bed off. I pulled my rear tank to drain gas out of it from the previous owner and it was a royal pain. I ended up pulling my bed off for repair and it made fixing my front tank pickup unit super easy. As long as you don't live up north and things get all rusty bed removal isn't bad; it's just 6 bolts that hold the bed on. Pull those 6, and if I recall correctly there's a place where you can disconnect the rear taillights with a single plug so you don't even have to remove the taillights, though I may have had to remove the taillights, it's been a couple years so I don't remember it too well. It's pretty much impossible to pull the bed with only one person though, but if you have the extra hands, it's way easier than dropping the tank!
You made that look way to easy man. I did one 5 years ago and it took me almost 6 hours, had to customize a wrench for the bango. My damn fingers were sliced to hell and back too.
You can convert these older PSDs to an electronic fuel pump which was already done to my 95PSD & had a Holley Red fuel pump on the frame rain under the engine. I recommend the Holley fuel pumps because they are easy to clean, they’re pretty good, I’ve had 2 of em & they have seemed to be working well.
They are expensive, but you’re paying for the ease of changing filters & if you mess with the fuel system all you have to do to check for leaks is turn on the pump w key.
I have converted my current 93 idi to an all electronic fuel system, bypassed the fuel selector & have the rear tank feed the front tank return line w a small electric pump, if you do the mod you need a set of check valves on eBay to make it so that fuel coming back from the engine doesn’t go into the positive line from the rear tank, & the feed from the rear tank doesn’t go backwards if the truck isn’t on, & the rear fill pump is on.
There will be a video on my channel on how to do the fix, I’ve done some testing & engineering on it & it seems to be the best viable option available now.
I said the hell with the fuel bowl and did a delete kit from Crude Diesel. Really happy with it. thinking about getting their e fuel kit to convert my OBS to an electronic fuel pump setup Good Video showing how to do the fuel pump. I still have a leak after doing the kit i'm still doing some troubleshooting to see if its the fuel pump.
Thanks 2 you 2day I have installed a diesel fuel pump an change the fuel filter. I really appreciated your videos...
I'm glad to hear the install went well; I'm glad to help too!
What brand of lift pump did you bye ? I bought $ 60.00 and mine is leaking again. I want little better quality. Thanks for your video, you made it very easy to see everything and you explained things very well. It makes me fill more comfortable about doing it. Great job 👍👍 Thank You so very much
Looks a lot easier than I thought. I'll give it a go. Thank you sir!
Great video, helped me out a lot today since I was doing the same thing. I do got a question, once mine started I let run for a but to see if there was any leaks then I drove it around. When driving I noticed I had very little power in accelerating and when parked if i revved it up around 2000rpm it would almost die when I let off the gas. Could this be an issue with air still in the system? I did prime it like you said maybe just not long enough? I got a 96 7.3
Once the system is running it should naturally bleed any air out. It sounds like you've got a low fuel pressure issue. Definitely check to make sure that there aren't any fuel leaks that would cause low fuel pressure. If you have access to a fuel pressure gauge that'll read up to ~60 psi or so, you can check your fuel pressure to make sure you're making enough. To run properly the truck should have at least 45 psi of fuel pressure. On the side of the fuel pressure regulator there should be a Schrader Valve, it's the exact same type of valve you find on tires. That is where you put the fuel pressure gauge. I have a cheap fuel pressure gauge that I use, but I have heard of people buying cheap tire gauges that might last just once, but it'll help to make sure you have enough fuel pressure. If there's any air in the system it likely won't make any fuel pressure at all. It could be just air getting in the lines somewhere, or a clogged fuel bowl screen, or a bad fuel pressure regulator. Let me know if you find anything out, best of luck!
@@Rnddiesel well I tried everything that I could think of decided to take it to a mechanic he scanned the computer and turned out there's two bad injectors and the cam sensor is bad. So that explains loss of power and it dying. But I'm no longer leaking fuel anymore thanks for the video that helped out a lot with the fuel leak!
@@ftbl74 Sorry to hear about the bad injectors! At least the cam position sensor is an easy fix, heck I keep a spare one of those in my glove box just in case, no joke. Maybe it's a good time to upgrade to bigger injectors? I'm glad to hear the truck is no longer leaking fuel, glad I could help you out with that part!
Pretty good description, could use better lighting. Plenty of ad’s; but this is what stood out the most, shoot down brands of pumps that were deemed she it can’s; but never mentioned the brand of the replacement! What no kick back? I am shopping at present and most of all would like to hear opinions on what are good choice’s of pumps..
Might have to do this job in the future, I’m thinking a dab of assembly lube or maybe grease on the shaft of that plunger to keep it from falling into the abyss.
Awesome video, is there an easy way to put on the banjo bolt? I haven’t figured out how to put it back on yet so far
I'm here because my mechanic just quoted me $1500 to do that job. And of course mine is missing the cover, so they want to replace that. I'm not losing power as best I can tell, so I'll be doing the job myself in a couple weeks. I hope I don't drop that tappet. I wonder if there's some way to be sure it doesn't fall out? Thanks for the excellent video. I hope it's as easy as you make it look.
Sure thing! It sounds like your mechanic is charging a bit of a steep price. I think there's some way you can see the pump push up as the engine rotates over to make sure you don't drop the plunger, but I tried that and didn't really see any movement. It might work if you break the pump loose first, then it'll be free enough that you can watch the pump push up as the cam comes around. Best of luck with the job!
Thanks for making this video, hoping it will make this job easier. What brand pump did you get? And has it lasted? I can find Carter, Alliant, and Delphi pumps but I would prefer to replace mine with OEM if I can find it.
It's been a while and I don't fully remember what brand it was. I remember doing my best to stay away from a Carter since I'd heard they weren't so great. The one I purchased came from Riffraff Diesel, and I think the unit they have now is an International Navistar OEM unit. I've been happy with the pump so far. Quite frankly from my experience, anything you get from Riffraff is as good as it gets. I wouldn't hesitate to purchase whatever pump they currently have for the OBS 7.3. After about a year and a half it's still leak free (knock on wood).
@@Rnddiesel I ordered the one on Riffraff a few days ago, just waiting for it to come in. Now I just have to pray the tappet from the old pump doesn't break off and fall into my engine lol
@@nicksnell5429 Best of luck to you! As long as you don't pry the pump sideways, you should be good. Try and use the two screw drivers like I did and work it back and forth very gently and pull it straight up. The pop metal housing isn't exactly known for its strength. I hope the Riffraff pump work out as well for you as it has for me!
Straight forward video no muss no fuss thanks dude
Thanks for the great video. It made the job much easier.
Your video was very helpful, I appreciate it! Do you know what the gasket is called on the intake y plenum? Mine came apart when I took it off
What brand of fuel pump did you use? If you mentioned it in the video I didn't catch it.
I have to do this exact same job thank you for all the info. great video👍🏼
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I'm new to this engine and this helped.
Hi, I watched your video it was very helpful. I'm trying to order a part for my truck. It is the little piece that has the screen on it in the fuel pressure regulator. Do you know what that's called?
I'm glad to help! I don't know exactly what the part is called, I just refer to it as the fuel bowl screen. Here's a link to one on Amazon:
www.amazon.com/dp/B000NS4PM8?tag=powerstrokeinsert-20
Nice one dude! I always suck the fuel out with a hand pump way cleaner, dont have to worry about the hokey bleeder.good upload!
I'm doing this for my father and cant get banjo bolt back in what a pain lol...did it go right in for you?
It's definitely not easy, but doable - helps to have small hands... you'll get it, just keep at it!
@@Rnddiesel I got it 1st thing this a.m.!! THANKS and awesome video
Thank you for your video it really helped me out👍
The only difference is, that my 96 is a California truck with a damper behind the fuel pump covering the banjo bolt. I still managed to remove the fuel pump without removing the turbo.
Glad I could help! I'm amazed that you were able to get that off without removing the turbo! Nice work.
Tomas, I'm facing the same obstacle. I have a California truck. How did you get access to the banjo bolt with the damper there?
@@Rnddiesel Thank you so much for your video, could you please reference me the Co. to purchase the non Carter fuel pump,and necessary parts that I may need for replacement such as rings on banjo bolt and O rings or hoses for fuel filter.
All the best way to confirm leaks. I replaced fuel bowl assembly and pump 3 years ago and started leaking again. Thanks
@@brucebell7623 Here's a link for the fuel pump: www.riffraffdiesel.com/mechanical-fuel-lift-pump/ supposedly it's made by Ford. This is the link I used, and it's still leak free a year later. Also here's for the banjo bolt gaskets: www.riffraffdiesel.com/banjo-bolt-gasket-set/ The gaskets shouldn't be reused. Fuel hoses or you can just buy some cheap stuff at the parts store, that's what I did, and use worm clamps: www.riffraffdiesel.com/fuel-pump-hoses/ and www.riffraffdiesel.com/fuel-pump-upper-hose/ I believe my fuel pump came with one gasket for the banjo bolt, but it takes 2 to complete the job. It's also less than $5 to make sure you have all the parts you need. You should be able to reuse the banjo bolt and the fuel lines, but in case you can't riffraff also has those parts too.
I wouldn't be surprised if your fuel pump were leaking again, but you probably want to make sure your fuel lines from the pump to the bowl are in good shape. Those seem to be the weakest link in the system, as in they leak first. Good luck!
I have a 1995 7.3. New to this engine, but learning a lot through your channel. Question.... I replaced fuel pump and did fuel bowl and fuel pressure regulator rebuild from Riff Raff. cranks and runs. I drove around until it was up to operating temp and went to look for leaks. When I did, I noticed that the housing for the fuel bowl and fpr were hot to touch. My HPOP reservoir was quiet hot to touch as well. I don't know if this is normal or if it means i messed something up, or possibly indicative of a different problem.
Quick question.....my lift pump is leaking at the weep hole. Rather than replace the pump now, can I seal it with a fuel rated sealant so that it stops leaking. I'm not having any performance issues. Can I do that?
extremely detailed video.. even including principles of operation. two thumbs up.
Suppose an obs powerstroke ran out of fuel in a tank.. could the pump re prime from the other tank just from cranking with starter? of course after flipping the switch to pull from other tank. but before the batteries killed over?
Robert F thank you! I find it always helps with diagnosing problems and upgrading systems when you understand more of how it operates; I'm glad you appreciate the insight!
Good question on the fuel priming... I've never done it before, but I would think that you should be able to re prime the truck before you run out of charge in the batteries - assuming that you have strong batteries to begin with though.
Here's my thoughts: First off, I would hope that Ford engineers thought this through at some point, any good engineer should, and if they didn't actually size things properly (battery wise) it was probably because some bean counter messed things up. I would think the engineers sized the batteries to allow you to prime the system from a dry tank.
Second, the low pressure pump that pulls from the tank is a positive displacement type pump. Assuming it too is in good shape and has no significant tears in the diaphragm, it'll draw a vacuum from the full tank and suck the fuel through the fuel lines. However this also assumes your tank switch valve is in good shape and you aren't drawing in any air from the empty tank through the valve assembly. I've never pulled one of the switch valves apart before though, so I can't say for sure. For this reason, the Ford owners manual specifies that you don't run a tank completely dry... Anyway I approximated the volume to fill the fuel line is about 5 ounces, plus maybe add 12 oz for the fuel bowl capacity, and maybe another 8 for the fuel rails, so we only really would need to move about 3 cups of diesel, and that's not bad. If you've ever had a fuel line leak, you know that diaphragm pump will dump a lot of fuel in a hurry! It shouldn't take too long to refill everything.
Third, any air that gets sucked in with the fuel is naturally bled out through the top of the fuel bowl and bled through the OBS regulated return fuel system; it's pretty nice. Adding to that, the engine doesn't demand all that much fuel at wide open rack, (had to throw that in there, diesels don't technically have throttles, but 7.3's don't have mechanical injection pumps either, so technically don't have racks either, but heck might as well carry over the terminology, we drive diesels after all, not gassers!), so the fuel lift pump doesn't really flow that much volume to begin with. If you recall hydraulic principles, air is compressible, and fuel is not. What I'm getting at, is that if you ran the truck until it stopped running or more likely lost all power from a lack of fuel pressure to the injectors, there was probably very little air in the system, and the fuel rails were probably still mostly full, so you only really emptied the bowl and the fuel line. Basically if this happened while you were driving, you'd probably notice the severe lack of power long before the engine totally died, you'd probably be on the side of the road at that point. Anyway, there should still be a good volume of fuel in the rails unless you pulled the plugs and drained those too.
Sorry, I'm an engineer, and overthink the heck out of things, this is getting lengthy.
Long story short:
Now if you did run a tank dry and need to prime the system back with fuel there are a few things you'd probably want to do to help the system prime and to not cause undue damage to your fuel system.
Diesel lubricates everything, injectors, pump, the whole fuel system, and keeps things cool too, you don't want to run it dry too long. Minimize the time spent cranking to prime as much as possible.
Remove the fuel bowl cap, and fill that thing up with diesel if you can, that's the best you can do to help the system prime. Filling the bowl yourself, you could get the truck running in a few less cranks and have the pump take over from there. Also don't use your key and ignition to crank over the truck. While you crank to start, the engine tries to fire the injectors, if they don't have diesel to lubricate the barrel and plungers with extremely tight tolerances, measured in .0001 of an inch, yes ten thousandths, not thousandths, you risk damaging the injectors. Instead, take the keys out of your ignition, put them in your pocket. Grab the same screwdriver you used to remove the fuel bowl lid, and maybe a glove too, and jump the starter solenoid poles with the screwdriver. This way the pump starts to pump without the engine trying to fire the injectors too, just be careful, there's a lot of amps going through there. Another way you could achieve the same thing that may be safer, is to just unplug all your injector harness connectors at the valve cover, then the injector solenoids aren't active and you could use the key to turn the engine over like normal. Do this for a few cranks, maybe just 5-8 seconds or so, not long. Then reconnect everything and go for a start attempt. If all is good, your truck should start pretty quick. Maybe crank without the fuel bowl cap on so you can crank until you see diesel fill the bowl? A fuel pressure gauge would be really nice here...
We'll I know it's a run-on, but hopefully this clarifies things. Yes you should be able to.
-Rnddiesel
Rnddiesel no prob on the engineer mind driven over thought lengthy response. I'm also quite a big time over thinker and I love details :) Been wrenching on gas vehicles quite a number of years but new to diesel specifics and their quirks: like after mine has sat a while, usually overnight, it'll start just fine... then die and when it dies its instant. No sputtering at all. It's like someone turned off a light switch. It always (knock on wood) restarts.. sometimes almost like the first start, sometimes takes 5-8sec. Thinking the problem has to be rather close to the injector end of the fuel system bc I can't imagine a 7.3 going through 5oz of fuel in less than a minute at idle. And it really doesn't die again until its left sitting many hours.. drive to the store or wherever, go shopping, come out & start it up go home not a hitch. Thoughts? & unrelated to that: reason for curiousity about self priming capability of the system is an inop fuel gauge which I gotta catch a not rainy day for gettin under there & findin bad wire / loose connection / bad gauge. Both tanks it stays pegged past full. Not that I plan to run a tank dry but just in case it does happen with inop fuel gauge at least I know it's possible to get going again instead of call a tow truck lol.
@@robertf6523 details are fun, and it definitely helps to figuring out problems! I don't know if you've heard, 7.3's are infamous for having camshaft position sensors go out. If you have no check engine light, try the cam position sensor. Its fairly cheap, ~$40 from the stealership. It's located right above the front crankshaft pulley and has a metal bracket built into the sensor to hold it in. IIRC it's a single 1/2 inch bolt that holds it in, and it needs to be pried out a little bit. Make sure you get the Motorcraft sensor only, with 7.3s, never get sensors other than Motorcraft or International Navistar, aftermarket sensors are garbage and a waste of money, you'd be better if lighting your money on fire with cheapo sensors. Mine had a similar issue, you'd drive down the road and it just shuts down, restarted every time though. I replaced the cam position sensor, and haven't had an issue in over a year. Look at the color of the sensor too. Black ones aren't so good, gray sensors are the updated cam position sensor and work better. Let me know what you find out!
Rnddiesel Mine's just after startup when it's sat for a long time (like overnight). After 1-3 mins if it don't die, it ain't dyin. Not even a sputter or stumble whether idling in first or roarin at 60mph, cruising or WOT
@@robertf6523 Another thing you can check is your ICP sensor, if there's oil in the wiring connector it may be bad. Also if you unplug the ICP when you're having the problem and it starts just fine, it may be a bad ICP sensor. Also look into the IPR, Injection Pressure Regulator.
thanks you s0 much ! yep fuel leaking on the ground your info will help me fix my old truck thanks again
Which are the best quality fuel pumps. I am hoping for a replacement that last a long time. Thank you
Thanks for the info. I really like the explanation of parts, I'm new to diesel engines. This helps a lot.
Hi was wondering what your truck sounded like. Before you changed the pump.
I have a 97’ f250 and it has just started to sound like its huffing when it starts up. It doesn’t purr like it used to.
And there is diesel dripping from the pump. I have changed the fuel filter, ipr sensor and valve. And new hoses also the rings by the banjo bolt. Thanks for the video.
I don't recall hearing any significant difference before and after changing the pump. If you're concerned about the fuel system, you may also want to measure the fuel pressure. There's a Schrader valve on the side of the fuel pressure regulator, looks just like the valve you use to fill your tires. That's where you test fuel pressure. The huffing you're describing might also be due to the weather being colder. A bad glow plug or two would cause the engine to run rough at startup until everything gets warm. I'm just guessing here and without actually seeing what's going on in person, it's hard for me to say. Best of luck!
Rnddiesel ok thank you for the advice. Appreciate it and the videos!!!!👍🏻👍🏻
where did you put your screwdriver to prime it without ignition? i gotta replace the high pressure line and dont wanna try priming by turning the key. super helpful and detailed video tho thanks!
Glad to help! I just used the screwdriver to bypass the starter solenoid. It's on the passenger side inner fender and has 2 large studs, and 1 or two smaller studs on it as well with wires running to them all. Basically just use a screwdriver to short circuit the solenoid between the two large studs with thick wires running to them. Be careful though, you're sending hundred of amps through your screwdriver in the process. Don't use a good screwdriver either, bypassing the solenoid welds the end of it a bit! It's also a nifty trick if your starter solenoid ever goes out!
Just make sure the ignition is off when cranking during priming
Thank you, you helped me get my truck running again!
Sure thing! I'm glad I could help!
I have all the parts and I'm about to go do this to my 97 F250. If it doesn't go as easy as you make it look, I'll be cussing you. Just thought you should know. No pressure. ;)
Good luck! Yeah I did speed it up a bit with video editing haha. The fuel pump removal was in real time though, just go nice and easy so you don't break off the fuel pump in the block.
@@Rnddiesel it went well. My wrench fit the banjo bolt so it was no big deal. Getting it back in and the seals lined up was pretty awkward. Just something you have to breathe deeply and take your time with. My filter housing was full of sludge, which was hard to get out of there because of the heater. The whole job was a lot easier than I had imagined, and thanks to your video.
Also what do the two hoses from the regulator go to Thanks I. Advance
Does the truck have the dual tanks or single tank
I know this is an old video, but hopefully the original poster is still active. It was stated here that the Carter pumps maybe aren't great quality and you paid a bit more for the pump you put in. I'm assuming it was an OE ford pump? However the new pump in the video had the Carter part number on it. I know there's a lot of speculation about this, though it seems likely that Carter actually was the OE and Ford simply put their name on it. This is of course common practice for any auto parts from any manufacturer. There usually aren't that many companies that make individual parts like fuel pumps, water pumps, clutches, etc. Curious if others have any thoughts on Carter vs "Ford" fuel pumps in this application?
Just one question, what happens if the pump piston falls down, how to get it out?
I’m having problems with my 97 f250 fuel system. The previous owner put a aftermarket fuel system with a fuel filter. I have cold no start not sure what to do. Replace the CPS and batteries along with fuel pump.
Pizza and a beer for this guy. Thanks!
What two spots are you connecting with your screw driver to rotate the engine. (solenoid)
this video is outstanding. thank you for great video and step by step explanation. gonna be a great help. thank you
How long did you need to turn the engine over to get it to start? I jumped the starter and bleed the fuel bowl like you showed but I'm not having any luck in starting the truck? Wondering if I have another problem also
What is the air filter you're using?
I watched this video a couple weeks ago and good God have I paid for it heavily !!
My 97 has big pod looking thing above banjo bolt do I have to pull turbo? What is that pod ? Thanks 😊
Can someone explain how he was cranking the engine over with a screwdriver? I’m confused on how that works.
My dad changed the fuel pump on his truck before he passed and im trying to get it running. There isnt any fuel coming from the strader valve on the side of the water separator after turning it over multiple times like you showed. What is the recommended next step. It may need the ignition control module changed but wanted to make sure the fuel pump was doing as it should before replacing it and not need it.
I'm sorry to hear about your Dad! You may want to start by making sure the fuel tank is well over 1/4 full. The internal pickup tube/filter may have fallen off in the tank, so it cant reach fuel at the bottom of the tank. Other than that check that all the fuel lines are connected, and there are no major leaks. You may also want to try removing the Schrader valve to ensure it's not seized shut or anything like that. The fuel pump is all mechanical and tied directly to the camshaft, so even if it's going out, you should still have some fuel flow to it.
Very good video! It helped me. Thank you!
Great vid. 1 have a 1997 7.3 in a f450/ superduty. If i let it sit for a couple weeks the hpop reservoir bleeds off also there is no oil pressure at the gauge at the dash. It runs and drives fine. Just wanna fix the issues so i can sell and clean out my yard. Any suggestions wouls be appreciated.
I think the HPOP reservoir draining may be attributed to a the check ball in the HPOP reservoir itself. Though with you pointing out a lack of oil pressure on the dash, that leads me to suspect your low pressure oil pump is losing its prime and may need replacement. You may want to go browse online forums like Powerstroke Nation before you commit to that hefty task. There are guys on there who are far more knowledgeable than I am. I'd be willing to bet someone has had an issue just like the one you're describing in the past. Best of luck!
I need to rebuild my hpop... So the fuel bowl might as well come out and get new seals and while I'm at it I'll do the lift pump in the valley and since the turbo is in the way that might as well come out and get new seals and since that's out I might as well fix the oil supply end caps x4
Awesome video, thank you so much!
Great video, thanks for taking the time to make it and share it, helped me out a bunch
I can not for the life of me get the actual pump out. I took the fuel filter out so I have enough room to try and pry it off but it won't budge. I took out all the bolts holding it down. Any other ideas on how to get it out?
Carter is the ODM for motorcraft/international/alliant.
Dieselorings sells the pump with the upgraded internals to deal with low concentration biodiesel.
The pump you installed is a carter, check the part number on the side on google.
Remans are the problem for longevity usually.
Riff Raff sources those pumps from diesel o rings, they have some parts that they sell from Bob over there and he sells some RDP stuff in his store. Amazon has them for $42 but I know mine from DieselOrings was new, I would spend the extra $20 again if i had to to be sure
thank you for the exellent video. explained step by step and I believe i can do this. thanks so much
Thanks for the reply. Yeh I'll hit the forums. Already replaced the low pressure pump and the pulled out and cleaned/examined the check ball that sits right behind the the reservoir. And am still at a loss.
Quick hopefully easy question.. my truck (97 f350 7.3) unfortunately has a breathalyzer in it, in order to prime it I don't think bridging the solenoid is an option (I'll probably get locked out due to the device) how would you recommend I prime it with the ignition? Just turn it over a bunch until it starts?.. doesn't sound great but I'm not sure what else to do, going to be undertaking this project tomorrow morning..
@@goysb4jays566 went fine, I ended up priming it the way he did, got locked out but didn't have to pay the fine because I informed them what I was doing prior!
Did u ever run into air in fuel lines on the high pressure side after this?
I fortunately didn't have any problems with that. The old body style configuration of the 7.3 Powerstroke is also generally better about air in the fuel since it has a regulated return style system that lets air bleed out more easily than the newer Super Duty variant.
Did you say 1 1/4 inch wrench for the banjo bolt?
Thanks so much for this video amazing job
Thank you for the video, I understand the procedure much better. Truck runs very good with a light foot but losing power with heavy acceleration, so I want to be thorough. Replacing the tank pick up screens is on my todo list as well. Question... Will there be any Orings to replace on the regulator, little screen or fuel lines? Thanks again!
I'm glad the video helps! Definitely cleaning the tank screen is good to do, though it's not quite like on the superduty trucks. OBS trucks have a small fuel screen in the fuel pressure regulator than gets clogged and can cause a loss of power. If you want to replace the part here's a link to the screen I'm talking about: www.riffraffdiesel.com/fuel-regulator-repair-kit-94-97/
I've typically just pulled my screen out carefully, cleaned it off with break cleaner, and put it back in and it was good to go, didn't even bother replacing o-rings. Aside from Replacing the banjo bolt gaskets, (That is a must) it would be a good idea to replace the 4 short sections of fuel hose in the valley to prevent any future leaks. Also if you're really committed, the fuel filter drain valve likes to leak on the fuel bowl, so replacing that wouldn't be a bad idea either. Before you go about replacing the pump though, check the fuel pressure regulator screen, if its clogged it can cause a loss of power, and cleaning it may fix your problem. Best of luck!
What brand pump/kit did you use? Do you have a link?
Mine has a round Bosch plate above the banjo bolt. Any ideas to take it off?
Hi nice video. Thanks
I have a question if I put a electric pump to feed my filter housin and eliminate the mechanical will that work?
I don't believe that plan would work very well, for two reasons. For starters, the fuel bowl was originally designed to operate under low lift pump pressures, around 5-6 psi as the most. If you feed 60+ psi from an electronic fuel pump into the housing, that was designed for 5-6, you'll likely blow a seal somewhere. These fuel bowls are naturally prone to leakage even without 60+ psi pressure. Also, the OBS has a regulated return fuel system where some of the fuel from the ends of the cylinder heads, after it passes through the fuel galleries, gets regulated back down from the 60+ psi in the galleries, back down to low 5-6 diaphragm lift pump psi. If you just put the high pressure going in, you may run the risk of not allowing the system to operate as it was designed to bleed out excess air in the fuel. Basically you could have 60 psi of fuel trying to push against another 60 psi of fuel when the original design was to push against a mere 5 psi.
If you really wanted to keep the fuel bowl and go efuel, you could probably get a Super Duty fuel bowl and system, but at that point you're eliminating the regulated return system that the OBS already has, and replacing it with a less favorable dead head system that doesn't bleed air out of the fuel galleries as readily.
Bottom line, I've heard of one guy who did it your way a number of years ago, but I don't know how long that lasted. It may well work, but bear in mind none of the components were designed to operate under such pressure (pun intended). I wouldn't recommend it.
I've contemplated this before once too, and the only thing I could think of to retain the factory fuel bowl would be to utilize 2 separate fuel pumps. One that pulls low pressure fuel 5-6 psi from the fuel tank into the bowl, then rout the fuel out of the bowl into the SD electric pump to then to the fuel galleries, but you'd be adding a second fuel pump...
I wanted to keep the factory style bowl, at least for the time being, so if that's what you want its just easiest to keep the factory lift pump.
Hope the long explanation helps! I apologize if its a bit wordy.
Rnddiesel thanks man that is very clear the main reason I want to keep the bowl is the fuel heater
Yeah no problem! If you still want efuel and a heater, I believe some companies offer fuel heater assemblies that tie into the fuel filter base. That way you could still have the heater and have efuel.
Excellent video. Are we supposed to lubricate the tappet at all.
Thank you! Regarding the tappet, it wouldn't be a bad idea to put some grease on it if it doesn't already have some on it. I believe my new pump had grease on the tappet from the factory. Certainly a bit of sticky grease like you would use for wheel bearings could be applied to help hold in the tappet to the pump. Putting a little grease on the end that rides on the camshaft wouldn't be a bad idea either.
it is lubricated by engine oil . but as the other guy said not bad to lube it to stop the 1st start being dry but dont use grease use engine molly assembly lub
turnmaster, what's the benefit to using a moly assembly lubricant over just plain grease?
molly assembly lubricant is made for high polished plan bearing surfaces. bearing grease is for roller style bearings and doesn't not separate in oil for a short time and can plug small oil jernals till it finly brakes down and cause damage till that point. just plane motor oil would be better then grease hope that helps
I see that makes sense, I always wondered why you'd want to use molly assembly lube. Thanks for the info!
Do you recommend replace your fuel pressure regulator if you're replacing the fuel pump?
I don't see a reason why you'd need to. You can check that the pressure regulator is making good pressure by hooking up a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the regulator. It should be between 45-60 psi I believe. If it's low you can add a steel bb as a shim behind the spring to bring it back to pressure.
Can you please explain to me how bleed air for a 2000 International 4700 t444e? I think the engine is a 7.5 power stroke Ford
Thanks for this video. I'm in the process of replacing my mechanical fuel pump and have gotten as far as removing the Y plenum when I noticed a large black disc sitting under the turbo pedestal and above the banjo bolt behind the fuel pump. I'm not sure what it's attached to and if this means I need to dismantle the turbo to access the banjo bolt. Any thoughts?
1996 F250 7.3PSD
I figured it out. It's a Fuel Accumulator/Pulse Damper that sits on the back of the fuel pump so I guess I will indeed need to remove the turbo.
That black disk is a fuel pressure damper, it means your truck was originally equipped to be sold in California as that disk is a California model only part, at least from my understanding. I didn't have to deal with the damper, but I've heard it really complicates matters. From what I've heard the easiest way to do it is to remove the turbocharger, though I have heard of some folks managing to do it without removing the turbo. Removing the turbo on an OBS 7.3 is a royal pain and it takes some dedication. I really have no idea how else to approach it, it may take some work, maybe a special tool, and hopefully you'll be able to get it. Best of luck!
@@Rnddiesel You're correct. I'm starting by spraying Blaster penetrant all over the bolts holding down the Turbo.. and we'll see how it goes. Not only is the damper blocking access to the banjo bolt but the CA model has a longer banjo bolt so even if I remove the damper I won't be able to sneak a wrench onto the bolt like you did. If you're curious, this is howI learned what the black disk was: parts #6-022, #6-054, and #6-056 on this site (you'll see they're noted with "CA Models Only":
www.dieselorings.com/1994-1998-ford-7-3l/fuel-system-parts-filters.html
@@tammerbarkouki3515 Sounds like a pain, best of luck to you, and thanks for the info!
Also do you have any idea how to diagnose and fix a dead speedometer guage?
Wish you showed the struggle of the banjo bolt and the washers
Just have people pause it at that spot and put their hands in a vice for 20 minutes. That aught to be a good approximation
Was the brand and fuel pump you used where did you get it and has it held up I want to replace mine but dont want to use a crappy pump
I replaced mine with one from Riffraff diesel. I think it was an International Navistar brand pump, though I could be wrong. It looks like they have a Ford brand one right now, but I'd imagine it's also just as good if not better. I've had mine for 3 years now, and probably 40k miles without issue
you never had to take out the turbo?? can I do this on my 1995 turbodiesel?????
Amazing job, keep up the great work!
You do not fill up the fuel bowl with diesel correct?