LS broken exhaust manifold bolt extraction
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2025
- A common issue with the LS engine is broken manifold bolts. In this video I use the ProMaxx Mikey II to drill and extract the studs from the cylinder head. Made in the USA the Mikey 200 series includes everything needed to extract a broken stud, with the addition of the ProTap you can also use a precision tap to align and clean the threads.
Here is a great write up from ProMaxx on making room to remove the back exhaust stud: www.promaxxtoo...
GM 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L, 6.0L & 6.2L
www.promaxxtool...
www.promaxxtool...
/ promaxxtool
![How To Remove Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolts [LS HEADS and More]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AUOPPimT-KQ/mqdefault.jpg)
This is one way to do it.. my way is to free hand drill the hole off center --> break cheap extractor tip in hole --> break titanium drill bit tip in hole trying to remove extractor --> fruitlessly drill against titanium bit --> curse Chinese steel --> put everything back together and check for exhaust leaks --> watch video on how to do it properly. Luckily my truck exhaust isn't leaking at the moment. I'll give this guide a go with some cobalt reverse direction bits. Plan - F = exhaust clamp bracket.
Rick, I have been using your method for quite some time!
Haha
I'm right there!
Stuck at step 2.
Trying to figure out my next step without removing the head.
Thank you for this video can’t wait to get my extractor kit and try it
Thanks for the link to Promaxx. Found the kit I wanted and they even have them refurbished at a much better price. As for the truck being in the way, I figured I would just remove the front clip. Gives you full access without the hassle of removing the engine. Put the frame on jackstands and get the wheel out of the way as well. Still easier than pulling the engine.
I guess im randomly asking but does anyone know a tool to get back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly lost the account password. I appreciate any tips you can give me!
@Curtis Harlem instablaster ;)
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Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
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Thank you so much you saved my ass!
@Curtis Harlem glad I could help :)
Even if the stud is broke off below the surface of the head you can fill in with a mig welder and weld a nut on. The heat melts the lock tight and expands the aluminum so the stud back out with little effort.
That's what I do, no special tool, no fancy tools, and no removing the truck cab and fender to do it!
What about when my LS heads are cast iron? 99 6.0 LS
i tried it with aluminum heads and the nut just broke at the weld @@juniorjr9011
If you weld into the cylinder head where the bolt broke off It wont stick to the aluminum head. You could build a bubble till it comes out of the cylinder head. Weld a nut to the bubble.
Literally works every time and is super quick
And you just saved about $500. I priced it.
You should keep lubricating the drill bits every time you clear the chips or so.
No freak'n way... ! I literally cannot believe my eyes just saw that. This is cool. I have 3 Broken bolts inside the engine.
For $800 I’d pay someone else to remove the broken studs lol
Great video
Yea for $500 i can buy 3 or 4 extra set of heads also do they say what to do when the extractor bit breaks of in the exhaust stud it self
buy u a set of 706 heads thats what i did
So cool….I have been quoted 800 for 2 bolts on a 2007 suburban, seems a bit high…..any opinion?
That is a hard answer, but I think it is high. It does depend on the vehicle and which ones are broken, but even at 125 an house It should not cost that much
@@FlashPerformance thanks for the reply….I always treat the pros right but this seemed a bit high….
Torch bolts 1st. Heat kills the thread lock!
Great video-- very clear and well presented.
AWESOME kit - did you use a 1/4 air ratchet with the chuck?
Yes, I used my 1/4 air ratchet. The chuck came in the kit. They also have a ratchet you can buy that is a slimmer profile
Great video what size tap for the ls
I believe that it is a 8mm x 1.25. Of course its a metric.
Daniel Lawson yes you are correct thank you
this is probably a nightmare trying to do this with the engine still in the vehicle
Yes, it is not fun, but it is better then pulling the heads. The kit has all the tools for the tight fit of an engine compartment...But these are never fun or easy
Good video where I can get it?
Check with your local tool dealer or parts store, or you can go directly to their site at www.promaxxtool.com/
i only have middle 2 exhaust manifold bolts left which look super rusty and likely to break so might be interesting. think ill just yank the motor 1st
What do you recommend for replacement bolts for the LS engines? Do you use antiseize on your bolts
I like using studs to put the manifolds back on. I get them from the local parts store. And yes, I will use high temp anti seize
@@FlashPerformance
I think I'm going to try studs as well. Do you remember what length you purchased?
I have an 04 silverado with a manual transmission. My manifolds are leaking and noisy from broken bolts. I've noticed a lack of power in first during acceleration. My thought is the manifolds leaking are robbing my truck of its power. Does that sound correct? Thanks for the video and suggestions.
@@jalton9416 Double check the thread pitch but I think these are the correct ones from Dorman, They sell them at your local parts store as well www.dormanproducts.com/p-274-03411.aspx?origin=keyword
@@FlashPerformance thanks
It's way easier to use a mig welder ,even for those broken in the head .Just build it up with welds then weld on the nut .Easy peasy>>>>
Why arent the drills left hand flute? Ive extracted more bolts successfully using left hand drill by themselves than by using right hand drills and removers
They were, he was running them in the wrong direction.
Thx for the help
where did you get that chuck>?
It comes in the Kit that I show, however you can also purchase directly from their website as well. www.promaxxtool.com/accessories/p/prochuck
Do they make a kit for a Dodge 4.7 liter motor? Looking on the internet ????
Myra www.promaxxtool.com/product/27
no videos on youtube w truck still together
Here is one for a 6.0 but it is on a different style truck th-cam.com/video/gfxi0u2Mnk0/w-d-xo.html
06 chevy 2500hd 6.0 gas. drivers side rear most bolt is broken , does this repair kit fit without taking the engine out due to the firewall clearance?
Unfortunately not, on that bolt the pinch weld over laps the clearance to drill straight into that broken stud. the only tool that I know of that can get in there is a welder. I had to weld a nut on to that stuck and back it out while it was still hot to remove that one.
dorman makes a repair clamp that bolts to the back of the head near the driver side firewall which is genius. install clamp, tighten bolt, exhaust leak gone. i installed one on my son's 5.3 truck a couple years ago, its still goin leak free. dorman part number 917-107 31 bucks
I repair this issue in my shop all the time. Weld a nut to it and it will come out. It may take a few nuts to get the weld to penetrate the bolt but it always works.
@@kchotrodtruck610 You can actually access the space well enough to get the two bolts in the back?
@@yukhui that is correct. i was able to install both bolts to the back of the head. if i remember correctly, i put the bolt through the bottom hole of the bracket, then installed to the head and then just installed the top bolt. i have since installed the same clamp in the same location of an 02 suburban.
please show us the tool set.
www.promaxxtool.com/exhaust-manifold-repair-kits/p/mikey-ii?gclid=Cj0KCQiAoY-PBhCNARIsABcz773U8qxwxQPOgJxf9QADIqjgBgPKXFvQJy4rp9Sjjf0bfa7pMKCwZ08aAo14EALw_wcB
Man this is a long drawn out and expensive ordeal. Weld will not stick to that head even if it breaks off a little below the head surface just weld up a nub and grab it with voice grips. I remove these all the time In about 3 minutes each.
What was the price for that?
Kits start at $299, I got the Pro kit with a few extras. Check with your local tool truck or supplier for pricing.
@@FlashPerformance Cost almost as much as the 5.3l itself!!!!!
TheWolverine0657 this kit is designed for volume users like shops and fleet mechanics.
Wow, $600 for this?
You can buy a welder much cheaper and get nuts dirt cheap.
oh yeah... remove the engine first LOL... that's not a big job lol
Try doing that with engine in truck!!!
nobody wants to see a video that is not practical we want to see it done in normal circumstances big ol thumbs down!
It is hard enough getting your hands in the engine bay, let alone a camera. There was no good angle to show you how the process works so I did what I could to show you the step by step.
Can't find any thing on cast iron blocks ,so you couldn't weld nut on them
This is true and I did on some of the other ones that stuck out. I had two that were sunk in and I could not weld on them easy. Sometimes its all about options...
@@FlashPerformance used 1/8 Cobalt pilot bit to start then moved up to 7/32 just perfect for left hand Matco easy out
I get out in 5 min with my welder
Was not happy with it after getting it wast of money
holy SHIT the intro is correct
HOW MUCH IS THIS KIT?
CHEAPER THAN THOSE manifold clamp kits? www.dormanproducts.com/p-66009-917-107.aspx
might have to buy this kit :-( I just removed one broken LS bolt easily but another cuz it had no threads showing has been a pain!. tried migging enough weld material on top of stud to turn out, it just twisted off both times.
tried drilling with center punch divot, it still drilled offcenter i assume cuz hardened mig weld pushed it off to softer stud metal but cheap 2 piece extractor only turned maybe a 1/3 of turn b4 breaking.
then i tried migging a nut on the stud and it broke off 3 times.
Maybe today i will try stick weld a nut on there with fast freeze 6013 as im better stick welder than mechanicl plus i dont yet have an auto darkening helmut