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Nice work.. any tips for ones that are broken off well below flush other than drilling and the easy-out? I have a few on my V-10 that are broken below the surface. Thanks.
What actually works better than the turbo method is welding a 15” steel wheel from a 1985 Monte Carlo (it has to be a 1985 Monte Carlo and 15” wheel). Then , weld or anchor the wheel to one of the yellow, metal safety poles in any Walmart parking lot. Then, you’ll need some help from a buddy, but turn the engine, not the bolt, until the engine falls to the ground. Works virtually 100% of the time 25% of the time. This is not an advertisement for yellow, metal safety poles in Walmart parking lots.
Better yet, weld the wheel to the side of a large propane tank. 😂😂 But be sure to cut a hole in the tank first, so it doesn't build up pressure from the heat! 😂😂
If you are out in the field somewhere and don't happen to have a welder or a spare turbocharger lying around, something else that works fairly well is to always carry a small bag of torx bits with you (they are cheap and small). You can drill a hole slightly smaller than the torx bit into the broken bolt and then use a hammer to drive the torx bit into the bolt and then try to turn the bolt out using a vice grip or some other gripping tool. It works better than an extractor, and in situations where you don't have all of the "fancy" equipment you used. Depending on the size of the bolt, you can try this trick several times on the same bolt. Of course, having a torch, welder, or turbocharger always helps.
The thing with torx bit is that they might strip. Also they might cause the broken bolt to expand and make it even tighter. My approach is to use a square hss bit and drive it in. The corners are hard and sharp enough to cut grips instead of squeezing the bolt against the hole.
I been stuck in a shit mood due to the dreadful 5.4 manifold all day and you taking the broken stud out with the turbo was a great laugh I needed right now. Thank you!
In most, if not all cases, you start by shocking the broken bolt. Even if it is broken inside; you take smaller, flat at the end punch, and smack it multiple times with hammer. This helps to loosen the bolt, and it will be easier to remove, no matter what method you are going to use. In addition, left-hand drill bits should be added to the list of possible solutions. Also, there are ways to make the point in the middle of the broken bolts (nobody should be just making it with a small punch). I either use the biggest drill bit that will fit the hole (make the good starting point and then continue with smaller diameter bit), or the largest transfer punch diameter that will fit the hole.
Excellent. The bane of my efforts to service my own vehicles. Getting rusted bolts off. It was your attitude towards it that made me realize it's doesn't have to be painful. But can be looked at as fun and challenging. Thanks.
yeah I totally agree with that statement attitude is everything!!! cuz if you going to turn tools for a living or just as a shade tree mechanic this kind of stuff is going to come up sooner or later and the best way to deal with it is with a good attitude!!
Thanks for the methods. I just removed the ditch side manifold from a 2003 Grand Marquis. While in the car. I cut the nuts off so I could remove the manifold. Now all the studs were exposed. I tried the vise grip method, it worked on one. I tried the double jammed nuts and couldn’t get any action, so I pulled out my stick welder. I welded oversized nuts on the exposed studs, and got 6 more out. The last 3 broke the weld out of the welded nuts, so I used the washer and nut method to get the last 3 out. Note, I am replacing the fender so I had the luxury of space. Thank you for the great video.
This would be a better experiment if you use actual broken bolts. And I always use reverse drill bits for bolt extraction. A lot of time the heat from the drilling will help free it up, and it just comes out while I'm drilling.
My God... the washer method worked! I was trying for hours before this with a seized bolt, broke 3 nuts off prior to seeing this method. I cannot even tell you how much you've helped. Thanks!!!!!
Hey guys, huge tip if you’re doing method number five, where you’re drilling a hole and screwing something out make sure you don’t spray lubricant in it and if you do then spray it out with degreaser or isopropyl alcohol after so you get Maxximum grip and there is no slipping Make sure you do this before you hammer in that removal screw! Thank me later
Great video! Just a suggestion for anyone using an easy-out or tap. Try to use some form of a tap handle to help keep the pressure centered, it is too easy to snap a tap, etc using a regular wrench. Second point, I am a retired machinist, I hated using easy outs, like you said, if they work 50% of the time for you, that is a far greater success rate than they worked for me. Plus, one of the most common repairs I saw were customers bringing in a part that had a broken bolt with an easy out broken in it.. made drilling it out near impossible.
I got to learn all about this recently. The dremel (the first tool I ever owned, from 31 years ago) got through the bolt & I was able to eventually remove it.
This happened to me with a bolt in the diff cover of my 8.5 gm, I tried drilling it out but ended up grinding it flush and laying a huge bead of silicone in that area and crossed my fingers lol, never did leak
Bought a flux core MIG welder on Amazon for $74 after tax and shipping. It even came with a welding mask and a roll or wire. Extracted a broken stud by welding a nut on it. Worked great.
There are some other great ideas in these comments too. I recall someone suggesting I try welding a Monte Carlo to it. :D This is why I love TH-cam. Thanks for watching!
When using the "grip it and rip it method" with vise grips or any other clamping device, try grinding a flat on the bolt. Helps the pliers grip better and keeps them from slipping.
I was a welder for 50+ years. I have removed hundreds of broken bolts and taps. Heat the bolt red hot,rub bee's wax on it ,let cool. Grab with vise grips if you can,gently turn , usually works first time. If not,repeat. If broken flush,heat,apply bee's wax,let cool,weld on a nut or even CRS rod. As the bolt cools the wax is sucked into the threads, capillary action.
These are some pretty cool methods. I use #6 on the reg. AND if you don’t use these sound fx in every video from here on out, I will be very sad. 😁. Awesome video!
And here I was thinking I'm the only one that ever welded a turbo charger to broken off bolt to remove it. So refreshing to know that I am not alone!🙂. Great video.
Kayla, The reason I know you’re awesome is because you appreciate the fine art of welding strange objects to broken engine parts. Thank you for watching, commenting, and for being awesome. -Jeremy
@@WiringRescue I absolutely recognize and appreciate your genius in problem solving using a completely serviceable/no longer serviceable turbo charger as a broken bolt extractor! I keep all of my old car parts that I replace (and absolutely everything else, I throw nothing away) and repurpose them into usable second life tools and equipment..sometimes abstract art. Welding that turbo charger onto a broken bolt was the most imaginative (and hysterically funny) thing I have seen in an age. Sheer genius!! That bolt stood no chance in the face of the tremendous amount of torque that piece of improvised tooling applied to it. I immediately knew you were of my tribe and that you knew the song of my people!😁
@@benjamingifaldi7441 - absolutely! I’ve done it many times with the stud broken off below the surface. Just crank up the heat on the welder and weld to a washer first.
I just found your video and the welding method worked amazing! I had three studs broken in the head of my Dodge Cummins and it worked flawlessly on all three. Thanks for the video!
Great video! Wanted to add that when welding just the nut to the stud, counter sinking the nut to the flats will help get deeper penetration. Love the washer/nut combo method! And when all else fails and we have to resort to the dreaded drill it out method, using left hand twist drills will often bring the stud right out. First I drill a pilot hole (can use a right hand bit) and then go to a bigger left hand twist drill bit. The pilot hole “relieves” the pressure and gives an edge for the left hand bit to bite or catch on and then it spins it out. Give it a go, it has greatly reduced the cussing in my shop! I looked around and couldn’t find any old turbo chargers so I don’t think that I can ever use that method!😉🤣
that's pretty sweet left hand drills they probably do work a lot better than easy outs the easy house don't really have a cutting edge or a biting edge on them
if i ever had to drill a broken stud i used a left handed drill bit. if the bit hangs up it will spin the stud out lots of the time. i have had a lot of luck with protruding bolts using a very small pipe wrench about a 3 or 4 inch. that was all the little pipe wrench was good for. i never used the vice griips the washer trick was a new one for me. never seen that one..good idea. i enjoyed your video. thanks.
I actually just recently bought left handled drill bits so that I can put them to the test! A mini pipe wrench also sounds like a great idea. Thanks for sharing the info and watching the video!
Typically none of them are ever rusted on or ceased. The heads break off the ends because the manifold warps. This is a handy demonstration of various ways to get em out. All helpful. But what really helps is leaving the head of the bolt on.
I like to use a wrench on the extractor instead of a crescent. If the bolt is loose and you it’s recessed deep down in the hole, I’ll use a Dremel with an old blank stone mandrel. High speed of the Dremel will twist it on out. I also use old copper water line to build up a weld on a broken bolt recessed in cast iron or aluminum. Works good. Great video.
Thanks for the GREAT Information! Well done. If I was just startin' out wrenching, I never would have seen any of these methods. If I grew up on a farm and had a fix-it-all Dad or older brother who cared enough about me to help me learn how to fix broken equipment, maybe they might have know how to use these good ideas that you took hours to video and edit. Thank you!
With the easy out: 1) don’t drill crooked 😅 2) don’t go TOO big or you end up swelling the bolt, making it tighter. 3) Try heat 4) a T handle work better than an adjustable wrench.
Not sure what's more entertaining. You welding a turbo to an exhaust manifold or the instant I saw the turbo I went to your videos looking for DSMs. You didn't disappoint. Hahah. Thanks for the laugh today.
lol. You caught me. I’m a life long dsm guy. ❤ I’ve built myself two 4g63 mightymaxs, a fwd turbo laser, a Galant’s vr4, and a couple 1G awd’s. I’m currently restoring a 91 talon awd from its previous life as a race car. This one I’m keeping forever. No more selling my Dsm’s and watching the next owner ruin my work! 😂
When I was a mechanic, I was assembling an engine top end in a boat that was open for 3 years, in Los Angeles, harbour. It was all corroded, so I was down in the bilge using a tap in all the head bolt holes, I was about done, when I heard a boats engine coming into the marina to fast, so I stopped and held on, but the wave was to big and violently through the boat around and through me over the engine, as I flew over the engine my leg hit and broke off the tap below the surface !! It took me 12 hours plus a. (Milton tap extractor). To get the piece out without hurting the threads !! Lots of using a flat punch and WD-40 . 😂 Great Video
Lol. That’s an awesome story! I’m glad it was you digging the broken tap out and not me! Sounds like a really stressful day! Thanks for watching the video! I really appreciate it!
Just snapped two seized bolts on the rear hub on a E39 bmw. I don't have a welder and I've been at it for hours. Trying to get the hub off and replace.. I Gave up for now. Round 1 goes to the bolt 😓
For those doing this job. I watched a video that showed HOW TO AVOID breaking these. Use 6 point ratchet/wrench and try to loosen. As soon as it loosens a hair, retighten. Keep working it back and forth and you'll eventually wirk it loose... Then retighten as you want the manifold to stay tight and flush while you take the rest of the bolts out.
Great video. Hehe on the turbo charger, but it gave leverage to turn the bolt out. If a bolt is not seized in by rust or what ever, and things are clean around the bolt threads, then when the bolt head breaks off or gets cut off, the bolt should be loose in the treads, because it’s not holding any thing. I had a push mower recently that the bolt broke off holding the cutting blade on the crank shaft of the engine. The bolt was broke a few thousands down in the crankshaft. I figured, it should be loose. I took a very small flat screwdriver and hammer and tapped the bolt. Sure enough it moved. Was not trying to turn it, just to see if it was loose. I glued another butt end of another bolt to the broken one. Wait till the glue set. And turned the broken one out. Bolt size was around 5/16. Thank for the video. I never had much success with easy outs. Mostly broke off.
Glad you liked the video! It sure does feel like you’re the king of the world when a broken bolt comes out! I’ve never tried glue/epoxy, but now I guess I have to! Thanks for watching!
I've found that a good Honeywell or Garret turbo works better for bolt removal than some Wuhan War Whistle from ebay. The only one I won't even attempt anymore is the EZ-out. Those things break off so often, and they're harder than any drill bit ever. I'm fortunate that almost all of my broken-bolt experiences have been on either industrial machinery or motorcycles, which (sometimes...) makes it easier to access than on a car.
I can't be the only guy to comment this, but I'm not reading every comment to find out. One method that works for me about 60% of the time, is to drill it with a left-hand drill. Of course, you'll need a reversible drill motor to turn the drill CCW. I normally heat the area with a torch before drilling. I like your sense of humor! 😂
I literally just went into my garage and welded nuts to each of my broken studs that were snapped off a good 1/8" inside the head and they both came right out. Took me 8 minutes. I legit thought i would have to take the head to a machine shop because earlier i tried to drill the sruds and the bit broke off when i got almost all the way through. Awesome video man. It saved me some $$$$
Very informative video. I love the superb life like sound effects too!! Edit: Your second method could be improved with a piece of sand paper or Teflon between the nuts. Also there is a method where you drill a small hole in the middle, then tap in a square safety bit or star driver bit and turn it out with a driver.
@@WiringRescue just don’t forget, the safety or torque bit has to be impact rated or it will snap off the first quarter inch of the bit 99% of the time.
One that worked for me on a protruding bolt is to file the sides down into more of a square shape and then smash a socket over with a hammer, basically the same method as people do to get locknuts off wheels.
As you ask for other methods, I can tell about one I had to improvise many years ago in an attempt to replace a disc of a brake in a car for which that was needed. The disc was hold by three bolts and two of them went out without problem, but the head of the third broke leaving the remaining of the bolt just level with the disc, almost like you cut some of them in your video. I had no welding tool at hand and anyway had no experience how to use that. The diameter of the bolts were about 5-6 millimeter. I tried to create a slot for a screwdriver in the bolt. For that I used a drill with a 1.5 or 2 mm bit trying to do something like a diametral hole, starting at the border of the bolt almost parallel to the axis of the bolt and changing the direction during the drilling toward the center and then the opposite border of the bolt, then repeating the same thing from the opposite border. I don' t remember how many bits were broken in this operation but it worked and then with my strongest screwdriver the bolt went out. Rethinking about that, I wonder why I did not first remove the disc as it was only hold by a bolt wihout head. It was a long time ago (year 198x with x between 5 and 9, before 1985 I didn't have the garage where this happened) maybe a remainder of the head made it impossible or I was too stupid to think that. But I remember clearly the drilling.
Even a cheap flux core welder from harbor freight will do the trick. Recently gave my first shot of this on a dodge. The broken bolt was 3/16 below the surface. After 4 attempts i turned the heat up and success. The joy is amazing.
@@williammason7092 heat setting switch only has a minimum and maximum selection. I used the maximum. My wire speed was 1 out of 10. After a couple squeezes on the trigger the nut was glowing red.
You are right sbout the EZ Outs. If the threads are bound up, it's a no-go. If the head broke off in an accident or because of fatigue, you have a chance. And if you break an EZ Out, only a carbide bit (if any) has a chance of drilling it out. With a steel bolt in an aluminum head, there is a 90% chance the threads are bound up.
The double nut method works if you just turn the bottom nut. Dont turn them both. You actually risk unlocking the nuts together. But if you can get a nut on the stud and have a welder on hand just weld the nut after you screw it on. Plus the weld heat will help Brilliant idea to weld to the washer to the stud first. I never had luck with ease out either. Plus if they break off its hell then on. Nearly impossible to drill that hardened tap. If an ease out fails. You can use taps to cut the stud out by increasing the size tap. Love the sound narration and the turbo charger method.
Good info! Thanks for sharing and watching! On the double nut method - you are totally right. I was having trouble with the outer nut loosening when turning the inner nut, which is why I was using two wrenches. Normally that isn’t necessary though. For whatever reason my nuts (insert joke here) were aligned in the most perfectly wrong way! Lol. Also - I like the tap idea you wrote. I may have to try that out! Thanks again!
I showed an old timer a trick another old timer showed me after fought my suggestion after he tried every trick he could think of. I heated up the stud with a magnetron bolt extractor then hit it with a wax candle. Came out easy as pie. Boy was he mad he hadn't been shown the trick before. Can't win with some guys.
Sometimes it's useful to make a cup of tea first and pour the boiling water over the alloy especially if there are, rubber seals involved eg. brake bleeds screws. The alloy expands more than the steel bolt making it easier to remove. This prevents damaged to the seals you would've got using a blow torch etc.
The part you should explain is that the heat from the torch and welding does help.. Also when the bolt does start to turn. Working it back and forth helps as well with a penetrating spray/ lubricant. Always run a tap down the threads.. And another way is your wash/ nut but use a short bolt and weld head to washer. This will give you something to put 2 nuts onto . 🔩
love your sound effects. made my day stuck on these rusted brake wheel bolts im stuck with. those reverse screwbits aren't working for me either. appreciate the weld tips. gonna try those out for sure.
I weld a hunk of rod about 4" long to the knob of the visegrip adjuster screw at a slight angle as a t-handle. The angle lets me spin the t-handle with my palm for quick adjustments and to lock the visgrip with MUCH more force on whatever I'm clamping. I drill whatever nut I'm using to remove the threads and plating for a stronger weld. With the engine on a stand I face the engine so the manifold flange is level to take advantage of gravity. When I have one broken bolt I expect more so I heat each head to bright red with a fine oxy-acetylene torch tip so the heat is localized to the part. Then I let it cool until no color is visible and rock it back and forth a few degrees to break the threads free. I do this about ten or twenty times before removing the fastener. I ALWAYS use anti-seize on bolts going into aluminum parts, and not that watery aluminum powder shit from most parts stores. A tub of Jet Lube copper or any high quality nicke works fine. I've removed manifolds I installed decades before wthout difficulty.
Living in Canada, the heads of exhaust manifold bolts are always corroded so I gave up trying to get a socket on them. I just use the cutting torch to cut the heads off all the bolts and get the manifold out of the way, then weld washers and nuts on and work on getting them out. My record is 6 tries at welding a washer and nut on an LS exhaust bolt before it broke free and came out. My all time record is 9 times to get the exhaust bolt out of a Honda Accord, turns out the Honda already had a heli-coil in that bolt hole and caused all the problems
Massachusetts is soooo very similar. I swear the amount of salt sprayed on the roads in winter is troubling. It turns every car to dust within about 5 years. I highly respect your manifold removal methods! Thanks for watching the video!
The double nut works amazing. I think u did it wrong, u have to tighten it against one another as much as u can, then remove the stud using the inside nut
With the easy out, you should be using the proper size left hand drill bit. Also instead of tapping the extractor in, screw it in, it will have a lot less chance of breaking, especially if you use a t-handle to turn it
In a pinch, if you don’t have an extractor on hand. You can match a drill bit to a torx bit and slam the torx in there and slowly ratchet it off. You always want to go with the biggest extractor or torx that you can in the bolt without drilling it crooked. The bigger the extractor, the less likely you are to snap it off. My experience atleast.
GM 4.2 cylinder head bolts, notorious for breaking off. 9 of 14 breakoff 3/4" below surface. Too low to weld. So go for center drill. Problem is how to ensure center drill. The bolts are 11mm however the hole is 12mm/1/2". I find scrap bolts that fit the bolt hole. Cut off the threaded part so you have head and unthreaded shoulder. Put that in drill press vise with bolt head up. Drill 9/64" hole thru center with drill press. Used this as center pilot and works fantastic. Key is to use cobalt drill bits with cutting oil. . Drill down 1/4" in 3 steps and use small pickup magnet to clean cuttings. Use #2 easy out. Worked great. I did not have left hand drill bits, but found sets on Amazon for $13 for next time. Lessons learned. I also made larger pilot bolts, but did not need. Love the washer-weld trick for surface broken bolts. Did not know that and attempted center drilling without a pilot on the head and screwed up and drilled into water jacket because I go carried away. Win some, lose some.
Good info. So once you drill the hole in the center of the head bolt, what do you use to pull the bolt out? Just increase drill bit sizes until you can pull pieces out?
@@WiringRescue I was able to use a #2/3 easy out, tapped in with small hammer lightly. Just by luck they came out easy. Not so lucky when I tried to do the same with broken exhaust studs. That was disaster, ruined one hole. Drilled into water jacket. Not sure if that can be fixed. Had to get another used engine as that was cheaper than a rebuilt head. That engine also had broken studs. Unable to drill them out so went to tapped for next size up and then installed helicoils. Do not know if that will work as I just got new bolts and gasket today. Best to weld those studs out but not good at that either.
I was able to drill out a broken off extractor inside a fuel rail bolt with cobalt bits and drill oil. Took a long time, very slow progress and didn't seem to be cutting at all but then broke through and the broken bolt drilled through easily.
@@WiringRescue I'm about to try them on my driver side rear bolt on my 04 Sierra. Might have to break the bit to fit back there. Zero room ugh. It's my daily so don't want pull the engine but I just might have to a little bit. Really didn't want to tho. Bought headers and exhaust for it so here goes nothing. I can't across your video looking for anyone that's tried it but so far nobody. Literally the only bolt with zero room 🤣🤬
Ah. The ol fine turbo charger desieze method . I remember the first time we had to use that method in the late 1900s, right before the aughts and the innovations which came with the turn of the millennium. What a time to be alive.
It’s an aluminum head. In the case of broken flush or below flush, place a nut over the hole and the mig nozzle directly on the nut. One handed, squirt the gun until the nut is Cherry red. It will be welded to the stud and it won’t stick to the head. No ez out and washer required. Easy peasy.
I didn’t have anything more ridiculous within arms reach, so I really had no choice but to choose the turbo. If there was a toilet seat nearby, you better believe it would have been welded to that bolt. Thanks for watching!
The best method I have found is to use cans of air duster upside down to freeze the bolts in a warm block after soaking in penetrating oil. I have never snapped a bolt or had to weld or drill a stud after I learned this trick
That’s an awesome method that I should definitely try. Thanks for sharing it! With these LS engines in Massachusetts, the manifold bolts tend to break themselves off. So I’m forced to do drilling or welding to get them out.
Phew! I’m glad this knowledge is going to good use. I’m thinking about welding a passenger side impala door to my next broken bolt. ;) Thanks for watching!
@@bottomofthemap696 - Thank you! I always heard something about the 1975’s being the best bolt extraction doors. Plus, they become balanced for the reverse rotation when the regulator is warmed up to 88 degrees F. So that makes things way easier.
I am working on putting headers on a 49 Ford coupe with a flat head. So far I've broken four of the eight bolts I've taken out. Luckily, they've broken flush with the manifold so I'll be using the weld a nut to the studs method
I prefer the "Tommy Boy" method. Put it all back together like nothing happened and when someone else discovered the problem, you say, "what'd you do?" 60% of the time, it works every time.
Hey guys when using drill and ez out/extractor, use left hand drill bits at a slow speed... Alot of times the drill bit will grab and turn the screw out if its not rusted and seized badly... Also dont tap the extractor in, that will cause it to bind and break off... If the hole is drilled deep enough, simply turning the extractor will cause it to grab the screw
Don't tap it in??? These things don't catch very easy and when the do they don't stay that way long for the most part. I've got a broken glowplug on the side of my engine and if I didn't tap in it would fall out.
Nice video...welding the washer then the nut is a brilliant idea! Don't forget to add the lubricant so you don't strip out the aluminum threads from the head.
Besides using the Mini-Ductor Venom HP , the unit with the highest power , Matco has the RBRT Extractor Set , which has been getting great reviews . Whatever method works best without damaging the head or threads .
Drilling and EasyOut (hah) is always tough. After bolt removal it's a good idea to get a new bolt and see if it will hold torque or strip out before installing the manifold.
Thank You for Watching my "Easy" Broken Bolt Removal video!
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Left handed drill bits will sometimes work.🤔
I need job macanic sir in experience 12 year in Gulf
Nice work.. any tips for ones that are broken off well below flush other than drilling and the easy-out? I have a few on my V-10 that are broken below the surface.
Thanks.
r 4:51 😊
What actually works better than the turbo method is welding a 15” steel wheel from a 1985 Monte Carlo (it has to be a 1985 Monte Carlo and 15” wheel). Then , weld or anchor the wheel to one of the yellow, metal safety poles in any Walmart parking lot. Then, you’ll need some help from a buddy, but turn the engine, not the bolt, until the engine falls to the ground. Works virtually 100% of the time 25% of the time. This is not an advertisement for yellow, metal safety poles in Walmart parking lots.
Does it work in a Target parking lot? Or does it have to be Walmart?
I heard abandoned Sears Roebuck stores were the place to get yellow safety poles.
Better yet, weld the wheel to the side of a large propane tank. 😂😂 But be sure to cut a hole in the tank first, so it doesn't build up pressure from the heat! 😂😂
Seeing only 12 likes for this made me sad.
lmfao
If you are out in the field somewhere and don't happen to have a welder or a spare turbocharger lying around, something else that works fairly well is to always carry a small bag of torx bits with you (they are cheap and small). You can drill a hole slightly smaller than the torx bit into the broken bolt and then use a hammer to drive the torx bit into the bolt and then try to turn the bolt out using a vice grip or some other gripping tool. It works better than an extractor, and in situations where you don't have all of the "fancy" equipment you used. Depending on the size of the bolt, you can try this trick several times on the same bolt. Of course, having a torch, welder, or turbocharger always helps.
This is great info and something I have to test out for sure! Thanks for watching!
Sadly did this few hours ago and did not help
The thing with torx bit is that they might strip. Also they might cause the broken bolt to expand and make it even tighter. My approach is to use a square hss bit and drive it in. The corners are hard and sharp enough to cut grips instead of squeezing the bolt against the hole.
that's a good idea 💡
@@WiringRescue Torx bits work good on stripped allen plugs and such.
This is the best rusty bolt removal tutorial on the internet.
Thank you! I suffered for your education/entertainment. Totally worth it!
I been stuck in a shit mood due to the dreadful 5.4 manifold all day and you taking the broken stud out with the turbo was a great laugh I needed right now. Thank you!
In most, if not all cases, you start by shocking the broken bolt. Even if it is broken inside; you take smaller, flat at the end punch, and smack it multiple times with hammer. This helps to loosen the bolt, and it will be easier to remove, no matter what method you are going to use. In addition, left-hand drill bits should be added to the list of possible solutions. Also, there are ways to make the point in the middle of the broken bolts (nobody should be just making it with a small punch). I either use the biggest drill bit that will fit the hole (make the good starting point and then continue with smaller diameter bit), or the largest transfer punch diameter that will fit the hole.
All great advice! Thanks for watching and sharing the info!
You can also hit it with something like CRC Freeze-Off. It flash freezes the bolt, shrinking it slightly, and the penetrant works it's way through.
Great video. Practical, clear, concise without any wasted air time or hyped up music. Much appreciated!!!!😊
Thanks! I appreciate you taking the time to watch my video! Good luck with your repair!
Use the vice grip with moving jaw towards the direction of rotation. This helps the torque to assist with closing the jaws.
Same thing with the Crescent wrench...
@@ccrider77 same thing with the open end.
voice of experience - nothing better
Excellent. The bane of my efforts to service my own vehicles. Getting rusted bolts off. It was your attitude towards it that made me realize it's doesn't have to be painful. But can be looked at as fun and challenging. Thanks.
That’s awesome feedback! Thank you for taking the time to write it! And thank you for watching the video!
yeah I totally agree with that statement attitude is everything!!! cuz if you going to turn tools for a living or just as a shade tree mechanic this kind of stuff is going to come up sooner or later and the best way to deal with it is with a good attitude!!
Yup, was getting depressed about trying pulling out two rusty broken front pipe bolts... feel better now seeing his attitude.
I read an article in Popular Mechanics in 1962 that suggested putting a washer between the double nuts so the outside nut can't move.
That’s clever! I’ll try that next time! Thanks for sharing it!
I really like the addition of the washer to the nut when welding. Heat is the key.
Heat makes the stud expand. Welding on a gripping surface while keeping the heat from propagating down the bolt is the key.
Thanks for the methods.
I just removed the ditch side manifold from a 2003 Grand Marquis. While in the car.
I cut the nuts off so I could remove the manifold. Now all the studs were exposed.
I tried the vise grip method, it worked on one.
I tried the double jammed nuts and couldn’t get any action, so I pulled out my stick welder.
I welded oversized nuts on the exposed studs, and got 6 more out.
The last 3 broke the weld out of the welded nuts, so I used the washer and nut method to get the last 3 out.
Note, I am replacing the fender so I had the luxury of space.
Thank you for the great video.
That’s awesome - I’m glad you were successful! Thanks for sharing the win!
owww
I'm half way trough a hemi manifold... grasping for straws now. I knew steps 1-5, but #6 made my day. Stress gone. Thanks!!
Happy to assist! Also - if it’s a new hemi, sorry about your rear spark plugs. Not a super fun job to replace. And 16 of them? WTH!?
This would be a better experiment if you use actual broken bolts.
And I always use reverse drill bits for bolt extraction. A lot of time the heat from the drilling will help free it up, and it just comes out while I'm drilling.
My God... the washer method worked! I was trying for hours before this with a seized bolt, broke 3 nuts off prior to seeing this method. I cannot even tell you how much you've helped.
Thanks!!!!!
That’s fantastic! I’m glad the washer worked because drilling out stuff is the worst. Thanks for watching!
Hey guys, huge tip if you’re doing method number five, where you’re drilling a hole and screwing something out make sure you don’t spray lubricant in it and if you do then spray it out with degreaser or isopropyl alcohol after so you get Maxximum grip and there is no slipping Make sure you do this before you hammer in that removal screw! Thank me later
12:50 - I would have sandwiched 1/8" scrap of plywood betwixt a large steel hammer and the backside of the Easy-out, during insertion.
*_TRUST !!_*
better yet, dont use tapered extractors, use straight fluted extractors
superior tool as don't expand the broken stud @@t00ls742
Great video! Just a suggestion for anyone using an easy-out or tap. Try to use some form of a tap handle to help keep the pressure centered, it is too easy to snap a tap, etc using a regular wrench. Second point, I am a retired machinist, I hated using easy outs, like you said, if they work 50% of the time for you, that is a far greater success rate than they worked for me. Plus, one of the most common repairs I saw were customers bringing in a part that had a broken bolt with an easy out broken in it.. made drilling it out near impossible.
Thank you! I completely agree with every single thing you’ve said! And thank you for watching the video!
Been there. Solution is Harbor Freight diamond bits that fit Dremel. Takes awhile but works.
I got to learn all about this recently. The dremel (the first tool I ever owned, from 31 years ago) got through the bolt & I was able to eventually remove it.
thx man that is exactly what i have. now I know what to do
This happened to me with a bolt in the diff cover of my 8.5 gm, I tried drilling it out but ended up grinding it flush and laying a huge bead of silicone in that area and crossed my fingers lol, never did leak
Bought a flux core MIG welder on Amazon for $74 after tax and shipping. It even came with a welding mask and a roll or wire. Extracted a broken stud by welding a nut on it. Worked great.
I have to admit.. I've never considered welding a turbo-charger to a broken bolt. Genius!
There are some other great ideas in these comments too. I recall someone suggesting I try welding a Monte Carlo to it. :D This is why I love TH-cam. Thanks for watching!
OMG this is priceless, I laughed my ass of when I heared your cutting disc sound effect🤣🤣🤣
I’m glad other people appreciate my humor! Thanks for watching!
Handling the fifth bolt with such a pleasant attitude clues that you are a good dude
I’m trying my best to make auto repair and wiring a little easier on the next generation! Thanks for watching!
When using the "grip it and rip it method" with vise grips or any other clamping device, try grinding a flat on the bolt. Helps the pliers grip better and keeps them from slipping.
Good info! Thank you for watching and sharing the pro tip!
Good tip
I was a welder for 50+ years. I have removed hundreds of broken bolts and taps. Heat the bolt red hot,rub bee's wax on it ,let cool. Grab with vise grips if you can,gently turn , usually works first time. If not,repeat. If broken flush,heat,apply bee's wax,let cool,weld on a nut or even CRS rod. As the bolt cools the wax is sucked into the threads, capillary action.
excellent!!!!!
chinese or american VGs?
Loving the home made sound effects 😂 great video brother
It’s some of my finest work! Thanks for watching!
These are some pretty cool methods. I use #6 on the reg. AND if you don’t use these sound fx in every video from here on out, I will be very sad. 😁. Awesome video!
Thanks! It could be my finest editing to date! And yes, method #6 was a game changer when I discovered it. Thanks for watching!
Wheeeeee ya ya ya ya yaaa
I always use left handed drill bits when I need to drill, most of the time the drill bit removes the bolt.
The sound effects my dying! Well done zzzzzzzzzz squeek
Thanks Dennis. I’m glad people found it as hysterical as I did!
And here I was thinking I'm the only one that ever welded a turbo charger to broken off bolt to remove it. So refreshing to know that I am not alone!🙂. Great video.
Kayla, The reason I know you’re awesome is because you appreciate the fine art of welding strange objects to broken engine parts. Thank you for watching, commenting, and for being awesome.
-Jeremy
@@WiringRescue I absolutely recognize and appreciate your genius in problem solving using a completely serviceable/no longer serviceable turbo charger as a broken bolt extractor! I keep all of my old car parts that I replace (and absolutely everything else, I throw nothing away) and repurpose them into usable second life tools and equipment..sometimes abstract art. Welding that turbo charger onto a broken bolt was the most imaginative (and hysterically funny) thing I have seen in an age. Sheer genius!! That bolt stood no chance in the face of the tremendous amount of torque that piece of improvised tooling applied to it. I immediately knew you were of my tribe and that you knew the song of my people!😁
The washer welded to the stud then to the nut worked amazing. 2 studs broken flush removed both in 5 min
That’s awesome! Thanks for watching the video!
Will it still work if the stud broke off a little below flush? I have one that snapped a littpe bellow the surface
@@benjamingifaldi7441 - absolutely! I’ve done it many times with the stud broken off below the surface. Just crank up the heat on the welder and weld to a washer first.
I just found your video and the welding method worked amazing! I had three studs broken in the head of my Dodge Cummins and it worked flawlessly on all three. Thanks for the video!
Will try with a washer, nut just snapped of each time. Does this still work with a cheap Flux core (gasless).
Great video! Wanted to add that when welding just the nut to the stud, counter sinking the nut to the flats will help get deeper penetration. Love the washer/nut combo method! And when all else fails and we have to resort to the dreaded drill it out method, using left hand twist drills will often bring the stud right out. First I drill a pilot hole (can use a right hand bit) and then go to a bigger left hand twist drill bit. The pilot hole “relieves” the pressure and gives an edge for the left hand bit to bite or catch on and then it spins it out. Give it a go, it has greatly reduced the cussing in my shop! I looked around and couldn’t find any old turbo chargers so I don’t think that I can ever use that method!😉🤣
that's pretty sweet left hand drills they probably do work a lot better than easy outs the easy house don't really have a cutting edge or a biting edge on them
@@bryanelliott1928 I hate to encourage shopping Amazon, but the ones I got from them work great.
Most mechanics don't know about machinists "center drill" bits but they drill and countersink in one pass and the small sized fit hand drills.
if i ever had to drill a broken stud i used a left handed drill bit. if the bit hangs up it will spin the stud out lots of the time. i have had a lot of luck
with protruding bolts using a very small pipe wrench about a 3 or 4 inch. that was all the little pipe wrench was good for. i never used the vice griips
the washer trick was a new one for me. never seen that one..good idea. i enjoyed your video. thanks.
I actually just recently bought left handled drill bits so that I can put them to the test! A mini pipe wrench also sounds like a great idea. Thanks for sharing the info and watching the video!
I bought a turbo charger to remove my bolt! Thanks for the tip, it worked for me!
Mint! I always knew you could do it!
Typically none of them are ever rusted on or ceased. The heads break off the ends because the manifold warps.
This is a handy demonstration of various ways to get em out. All helpful. But what really helps is leaving the head of the bolt on.
I like to use a wrench on the extractor instead of a crescent. If the bolt is loose and you it’s recessed deep down in the hole, I’ll use a Dremel with an old blank stone mandrel. High speed of the Dremel will twist it on out. I also use old copper water line to build up a weld on a broken bolt recessed in cast iron or aluminum. Works good. Great video.
Thanks for the GREAT Information! Well done.
If I was just startin' out wrenching, I never would have seen any of these methods.
If I grew up on a farm and had a fix-it-all Dad or older brother who cared enough about me to help me learn how to fix broken equipment, maybe they might have know how to use these good ideas that you took hours to video and edit.
Thank you!
I’m glad that you enjoyed the video! Thanks for watching!
Dude really welded the turbo lol 😂 Good job! Loved it! Both educational and entertaining
With the easy out:
1) don’t drill crooked 😅
2) don’t go TOO big or you end up swelling the bolt, making it tighter.
3) Try heat
4) a T handle work better than an adjustable wrench.
I agree on all of that. It’s amazing how many comments are regarding my adjustable wrench usage! Lol. Thanks for watching!
Not sure what's more entertaining. You welding a turbo to an exhaust manifold or the instant I saw the turbo I went to your videos looking for DSMs. You didn't disappoint. Hahah. Thanks for the laugh today.
lol. You caught me. I’m a life long dsm guy. ❤ I’ve built myself two 4g63 mightymaxs, a fwd turbo laser, a Galant’s vr4, and a couple 1G awd’s. I’m currently restoring a 91 talon awd from its previous life as a race car. This one I’m keeping forever. No more selling my Dsm’s and watching the next owner ruin my work! 😂
When I was a mechanic, I was assembling an engine top end in a boat that was open for 3 years, in Los Angeles, harbour.
It was all corroded, so I was down in the bilge using a tap in all the head bolt holes, I was about done, when I heard a boats engine coming into the marina to fast, so I stopped and held on, but the wave was to big and violently through the boat around and through me over the engine, as I flew over the engine my leg hit and broke off the tap below the surface !!
It took me 12 hours plus a. (Milton tap extractor). To get the piece out without hurting the threads !!
Lots of using a flat punch and WD-40 . 😂 Great Video
Lol. That’s an awesome story! I’m glad it was you digging the broken tap out and not me! Sounds like a really stressful day! Thanks for watching the video! I really appreciate it!
Just snapped two seized bolts on the rear hub on a E39 bmw. I don't have a welder and I've been at it for hours. Trying to get the hub off and replace.. I Gave up for now. Round 1 goes to the bolt 😓
Thank you man your video is the best broken bolt removal on TH-cam
#1 guy 👉🚶
I had never heard of method 6 before, but now that so many new cars are coming standard with turbochargers, it is sure to become a popular solution.
disposables abound
Method 7(non-weld option): Tap a socket, just smaller than the threads, on the stud. Back out with a rachet.
I’ll try that!
Awesome video man. Small tip, to avoid it slipping, adjusting end goes in direction of travel, min 7:40
The turbo charger method is my favorite 😂 , I swear I thought you going to weld the turbo on the intake 😂😂😂.
Maybe next time I’ll weld twin turbos on the broken bolt!
Awesome stuff man! And thank you! Never heard of the washer method. I just put a fire to it till the gaskets start smoking
For those doing this job. I watched a video that showed HOW TO AVOID breaking these. Use 6 point ratchet/wrench and try to loosen. As soon as it loosens a hair, retighten. Keep working it back and forth and you'll eventually wirk it loose... Then retighten as you want the manifold to stay tight and flush while you take the rest of the bolts out.
Great video. Hehe on the turbo charger, but it gave leverage to turn the bolt out.
If a bolt is not seized in by rust or what ever, and things are clean around the bolt threads, then when the bolt head breaks off or gets cut off, the bolt should be loose in the treads, because it’s not holding any thing.
I had a push mower recently that the bolt broke off holding the cutting blade on the crank shaft of the engine. The bolt was broke a few thousands down in the crankshaft. I figured, it should be loose. I took a very small flat screwdriver and hammer and tapped the bolt. Sure enough it moved. Was not trying to turn it, just to see if it was loose. I glued another butt end of another bolt to the broken one. Wait till the glue set. And turned the broken one out. Bolt size was around 5/16.
Thank for the video. I never had much success with easy outs. Mostly broke off.
Glad you liked the video! It sure does feel like you’re the king of the world when a broken bolt comes out! I’ve never tried glue/epoxy, but now I guess I have to! Thanks for watching!
The fender washer was a nice trick!
Thanks! It works surprisingly well too!
I've found that a good Honeywell or Garret turbo works better for bolt removal than some Wuhan War Whistle from ebay.
The only one I won't even attempt anymore is the EZ-out. Those things break off so often, and they're harder than any drill bit ever. I'm fortunate that almost all of my broken-bolt experiences have been on either industrial machinery or motorcycles, which (sometimes...) makes it easier to access than on a car.
Lol. Thank you for the pro-tips and watching the video!
I can't be the only guy to comment this, but I'm not reading every comment to find out. One method that works for me about 60% of the time, is to drill it with a left-hand drill. Of course, you'll need a reversible drill motor to turn the drill CCW.
I normally heat the area with a torch before drilling.
I like your sense of humor! 😂
Very informative. It shows how difficult it is when you break off the stud flush. Thanks for sharing your skills. Good tips 👍
Thank you for watching! I appreciate you taking to time to do so! :)
I literally just went into my garage and welded nuts to each of my broken studs that were snapped off a good 1/8" inside the head and they both came right out. Took me 8 minutes. I legit thought i would have to take the head to a machine shop because earlier i tried to drill the sruds and the bit broke off when i got almost all the way through. Awesome video man. It saved me some $$$$
Hellz yes! I’m glad to hear you won the battle! Thank you for watching!
Very informative video. I love the superb life like sound effects too!!
Edit: Your second method could be improved with a piece of sand paper or Teflon between the nuts. Also there is a method where you drill a small hole in the middle, then tap in a square safety bit or star driver bit and turn it out with a driver.
Thanks! A bunch of people have mentioned the torx bit option to me. I’ve gotta try that!
@@WiringRescue just don’t forget, the safety or torque bit has to be impact rated or it will snap off the first quarter inch of the bit 99% of the time.
@@Dawsons89 That literally just happened to me, still battling it haha
I have removed hundreds of broken bolts ab
I really learned a lot from this video can’t thank you enough sir you’re the best ever
Thanks again. I appreciate you watching. Maybe if you’re bored, you’d like my wiring videos too?
One that worked for me on a protruding bolt is to file the sides down into more of a square shape and then smash a socket over with a hammer, basically the same method as people do to get locknuts off wheels.
That is something I have not tried but absolute will! Thanks for sharing it!
The washer and nut trick is the best
I totally agree! It works like 87% of the time!
As you ask for other methods, I can tell about one I had to improvise many years ago in an attempt to replace a disc of a brake in a car for which that was needed. The disc was hold by three bolts and two of them went out without problem, but the head of the third broke leaving the remaining of the bolt just level with the disc, almost like you cut some of them in your video. I had no welding tool at hand and anyway had no experience how to use that. The diameter of the bolts were about 5-6 millimeter. I tried to create a slot for a screwdriver in the bolt. For that I used a drill with a 1.5 or 2 mm bit trying to do something like a diametral hole, starting at the border of the bolt almost parallel to the axis of the bolt and changing the direction during the drilling toward the center and then the opposite border of the bolt, then repeating the same thing from the opposite border. I don' t remember how many bits were broken in this operation but it worked and then with my strongest screwdriver the bolt went out.
Rethinking about that, I wonder why I did not first remove the disc as it was only hold by a bolt wihout head. It was a long time ago (year 198x with x between 5 and 9, before 1985 I didn't have the garage where this happened) maybe a remainder of the head made it impossible or I was too stupid to think that. But I remember clearly the drilling.
Even a cheap flux core welder from harbor freight will do the trick. Recently gave my first shot of this on a dodge. The broken bolt was 3/16 below the surface. After 4 attempts i turned the heat up and success. The joy is amazing.
Sure is! Getting broken bolts out and starting engines for the first time are basically the best feelings ever!
What did you have your wire feed on and the heat setting
@@williammason7092 heat setting switch only has a minimum and maximum selection. I used the maximum. My wire speed was 1 out of 10. After a couple squeezes on the trigger the nut was glowing red.
@@jimjones1678 sounds like you have the same one mig 170
me..1/4 bolt and 2 in. deep using a stick welding..
You are right sbout the EZ Outs. If the threads are bound up, it's a no-go. If the head broke off in an accident or because of fatigue, you have a chance. And if you break an EZ Out, only a carbide bit (if any) has a chance of drilling it out. With a steel bolt in an aluminum head, there is a 90% chance the threads are bound up.
The double nut method works if you just turn the bottom nut. Dont turn them both. You actually risk unlocking the nuts together. But if you can get a nut on the stud and have a welder on hand just weld the nut after you screw it on. Plus the weld heat will help
Brilliant idea to weld to the washer to the stud first.
I never had luck with ease out either. Plus if they break off its hell then on. Nearly impossible to drill that hardened tap. If an ease out fails. You can use taps to cut the stud out by increasing the size tap.
Love the sound narration and the turbo charger method.
Good info! Thanks for sharing and watching! On the double nut method - you are totally right. I was having trouble with the outer nut loosening when turning the inner nut, which is why I was using two wrenches. Normally that isn’t necessary though. For whatever reason my nuts (insert joke here) were aligned in the most perfectly wrong way! Lol.
Also - I like the tap idea you wrote. I may have to try that out! Thanks again!
I showed an old timer a trick another old timer showed me after fought my suggestion after he tried every trick he could think of. I heated up the stud with a magnetron bolt extractor then hit it with a wax candle. Came out easy as pie. Boy was he mad he hadn't been shown the trick before. Can't win with some guys.
I really need to try the wax. I’ve heard that it works great for years and always forget to try it. Thanks for the reminder!
Sometimes it's useful to make a cup of tea first and pour the boiling water over the alloy especially if there are, rubber seals involved eg. brake bleeds screws. The alloy expands more than the steel bolt making it easier to remove. This prevents damaged to the seals you would've got using a blow torch etc.
OK, your sound effects generator is awesome. Thanks
Thank you. It’s some of my finest work!😂
The part you should explain is that the heat from the torch and welding does help.. Also when the bolt does start to turn. Working it back and forth helps as well with a penetrating spray/ lubricant. Always run a tap down the threads.. And another way is your wash/ nut but use a short bolt and weld head to washer. This will give you something to put 2 nuts onto . 🔩
All great advice! Thank you for sharing it here, and watching!
love your sound effects. made my day stuck on these rusted brake wheel bolts im stuck with.
those reverse screwbits aren't working for me either. appreciate the weld tips. gonna try those out for sure.
Thanks! I’m glad you liked the video. I actually bought some reverse drill bits because everyone says they are great. I haven’t tried them yet though.
Thanks for the samples on what techniques may work on removing a broken bolt. Mine the 2 nuts did the trick! 🙌🏻
And thank you for watching! I appreciate it!
the sound effects are top quality 😂
Thank you! It’s some of my best work!
I weld a hunk of rod about 4" long to the knob of the visegrip adjuster screw at a slight angle as a t-handle. The angle lets me spin the t-handle with my palm for quick adjustments and to lock the visgrip with MUCH more force on whatever I'm clamping.
I drill whatever nut I'm using to remove the threads and plating for a stronger weld. With the engine on a stand I face the engine so the manifold flange is level to take advantage of gravity. When I have one broken bolt I expect more so I heat each head to bright red with a fine oxy-acetylene torch tip so the heat is localized to the part. Then I let it cool until no color is visible and rock it back and forth a few degrees to break the threads free. I do this about ten or twenty times before removing the fastener. I ALWAYS use anti-seize on bolts going into aluminum parts, and not that watery aluminum powder shit from most parts stores. A tub of Jet Lube copper or any high quality nicke works fine. I've removed manifolds I installed decades before wthout difficulty.
Lots of great info here! Thank you for sharing all of it!
Living in Canada, the heads of exhaust manifold bolts are always corroded so I gave up trying to get a socket on them. I just use the cutting torch to cut the heads off all the bolts and get the manifold out of the way, then weld washers and nuts on and work on getting them out. My record is 6 tries at welding a washer and nut on an LS exhaust bolt before it broke free and came out. My all time record is 9 times to get the exhaust bolt out of a Honda Accord, turns out the Honda already had a heli-coil in that bolt hole and caused all the problems
Massachusetts is soooo very similar. I swear the amount of salt sprayed on the roads in winter is troubling. It turns every car to dust within about 5 years. I highly respect your manifold removal methods! Thanks for watching the video!
The sfx are sending me. Thanks for the vid! Super helpful.
Thank you! I’m glad others appreciate my fine sound effects!
The double nut works amazing. I think u did it wrong, u have to tighten it against one another as much as u can, then remove the stud using the inside nut
Thank you sir for posting this video I removed 2 bolts with this method.
You are awesome
Excellent! Thanks for watching and congrats on your success!
Great video, We are never too old to learn new tricks.
Agreed! I’ve learned a few things in these comments as well! Thanks for watching!
The left-hand drill bit works well also.
Yes! Many people have suggested that in these comments and I actually bought a set to test out! Thanks for the pro-tip!
With the easy out, you should be using the proper size left hand drill bit. Also instead of tapping the extractor in, screw it in, it will have a lot less chance of breaking, especially if you use a t-handle to turn it
This, left handed drill bit, it will sometimes remove the bolt.
Also using penetrating lubricant, with alternate cold and heat (where possible - obviously not near something like a gas tank).
welding and stuck bolts been my go to. but i like the other options. thanks brother
In a pinch, if you don’t have an extractor on hand. You can match a drill bit to a torx bit and slam the torx in there and slowly ratchet it off. You always want to go with the biggest extractor or torx that you can in the bolt without drilling it crooked. The bigger the extractor, the less likely you are to snap it off. My experience atleast.
A few people have suggested this to me! I think I may try it in a future video and see how it works!
GM 4.2 cylinder head bolts, notorious for breaking off. 9 of 14 breakoff 3/4" below surface. Too low to weld. So go for center drill. Problem is how to ensure center drill. The bolts are 11mm however the hole is 12mm/1/2". I find scrap bolts that fit the bolt hole. Cut off the threaded part so you have head and unthreaded shoulder. Put that in drill press vise with bolt head up. Drill 9/64" hole thru center with drill press. Used this as center pilot and works fantastic. Key is to use cobalt drill bits with cutting oil. . Drill down 1/4" in 3 steps and use small pickup magnet to clean cuttings. Use #2 easy out. Worked great. I did not have left hand drill bits, but found sets on Amazon for $13 for next time. Lessons learned. I also made larger pilot bolts, but did not need. Love the washer-weld trick for surface broken bolts. Did not know that and attempted center drilling without a pilot on the head and screwed up and drilled into water jacket because I go carried away. Win some, lose some.
Good info. So once you drill the hole in the center of the head bolt, what do you use to pull the bolt out? Just increase drill bit sizes until you can pull pieces out?
@@WiringRescue I was able to use a #2/3 easy out, tapped in with small hammer lightly. Just by luck they came out easy. Not so lucky when I tried to do the same with broken exhaust studs. That was disaster, ruined one hole. Drilled into water jacket. Not sure if that can be fixed. Had to get another used engine as that was cheaper than a rebuilt head. That engine also had broken studs. Unable to drill them out so went to tapped for next size up and then installed helicoils. Do not know if that will work as I just got new bolts and gasket today. Best to weld those studs out but not good at that either.
I was able to drill out a broken off extractor inside a fuel rail bolt with cobalt bits and drill oil. Took a long time, very slow progress and didn't seem to be cutting at all but then broke through and the broken bolt drilled through easily.
Use reverse drill bits very slowly and they usually grab and back it out
That’s something I’m likely going to try in an upcoming video. Seems like a bunch of people love them!
@@WiringRescue I'm about to try them on my driver side rear bolt on my 04 Sierra. Might have to break the bit to fit back there. Zero room ugh. It's my daily so don't want pull the engine but I just might have to a little bit. Really didn't want to tho. Bought headers and exhaust for it so here goes nothing. I can't across your video looking for anyone that's tried it but so far nobody. Literally the only bolt with zero room 🤣🤬
I died a little watching you cut those in the beginning of the video.
Hopefully you felt slightly better by the end! Thanks for watching!
When you have a hammer, everything looks like a nail. When you have a welder, EVERYTHING looks like it needs a weld.
Agreed 100%. That’s why I have to weld ALL the things. Thank you for watching!
Ah. The ol fine turbo charger desieze method . I remember the first time we had to use that method in the late 1900s, right before the aughts and the innovations which came with the turn of the millennium. What a time to be alive.
I was hesitant to share it, but I needed the world to know my secrets.
It’s an aluminum head. In the case of broken flush or below flush, place a nut over the hole and the mig nozzle directly on the nut. One handed, squirt the gun until the nut is Cherry red. It will be welded to the stud and it won’t stick to the head. No ez out and washer required. Easy peasy.
Agreed! Thanks for watching !
First time I've ever watched someone goof off and weld a turbo to a broken exhaust manifold bolt. Cheers bud, that's hilarious 🍻🍻
I didn’t have anything more ridiculous within arms reach, so I really had no choice but to choose the turbo. If there was a toilet seat nearby, you better believe it would have been welded to that bolt. Thanks for watching!
The best method I have found is to use cans of air duster upside down to freeze the bolts in a warm block after soaking in penetrating oil. I have never snapped a bolt or had to weld or drill a stud after I learned this trick
That’s an awesome method that I should definitely try. Thanks for sharing it! With these LS engines in Massachusetts, the manifold bolts tend to break themselves off. So I’m forced to do drilling or welding to get them out.
Nice. I’ll try this!
Thanks for this. This is crazy doing these things man, one needs to have a small garage!
I welded a bike frame to my bolt and although it was hard to spin and make clearance it ended up working great
Phew! I’m glad this knowledge is going to good use. I’m thinking about welding a passenger side impala door to my next broken bolt. ;) Thanks for watching!
@@WiringRescue make sure it's a 1975 Impala passenger side door. Otherwise it might not work
@@bottomofthemap696 - Thank you! I always heard something about the 1975’s being the best bolt extraction doors. Plus, they become balanced for the reverse rotation when the regulator is warmed up to 88 degrees F. So that makes things way easier.
I am working on putting headers on a 49 Ford coupe with a flat head. So far I've broken four of the eight bolts I've taken out. Luckily, they've broken flush with the manifold so I'll be using the weld a nut to the studs method
Months later he is going to wondering why there is a random stud welded to his turbo charger.
Seriously. I’ll be wondering who the jerk is that welded a stud to it. “Awe crap, I’m the jerk.”
The sound effects are pure gold.
Thank you! It’s some of my finest sound effects to date.
😂. Great video. Love the sense of humor
Thanks! I’m glad people appreciate the dumb things I do in my garage. Lol
I prefer the "Tommy Boy" method.
Put it all back together like nothing happened and when someone else discovered the problem, you say, "what'd you do?"
60% of the time, it works every time.
Hey guys when using drill and ez out/extractor, use left hand drill bits at a slow speed... Alot of times the drill bit will grab and turn the screw out if its not rusted and seized badly... Also dont tap the extractor in, that will cause it to bind and break off... If the hole is drilled deep enough, simply turning the extractor will cause it to grab the screw
excellent advice
Don't tap it in??? These things don't catch very easy and when the do they don't stay that way long for the most part. I've got a broken glowplug on the side of my engine and if I didn't tap in it would fall out.
@@eedom69 tap it in if you want. Theyre not intended to be tapped in. Theyre very hard and will break.
@@michaelmorgan2880 The icon ones I just got at harbor freight show a picture of a man tapping it in with a hammer in the instructions.
Nice video...welding the washer then the nut is a brilliant idea! Don't forget to add the lubricant so you don't strip out the aluminum threads from the head.
Thanks! I also love the washer idea!
Besides using the Mini-Ductor Venom HP , the unit with the highest power , Matco has the RBRT Extractor Set , which has been getting great reviews . Whatever method works best without damaging the head or threads .
Did you mean MAC tools? I love their RBRT stuff. I use them on all torx and hex bolts to keep from ever stripping them out in the first place
I personally use the #6 method, but welding a boat anchor instead.
Nice video 👍🏻
You can also try welding a steering wheel to it, and then just turn left. Thanks for watching!
#4:you got it hot enough to get the metal to expand and loosen the bolt...
awesome, i love the welded nut.always works for me. The turbocharge method my second favorite lol! I never use easy outs, they flat out suck.
Totally agreed on all!
Drilling and EasyOut (hah) is always tough. After bolt removal it's a good idea to get a new bolt and see if it will hold torque or strip out before installing the manifold.
Solid advice! Thanks for watching!
This video confirmed a couple theories of mine, thank you, I can now hopefully remove my stud from my block. Going to try the weld technique.
Good luck! I’m cheering for you!
Note To Self: Always carry a spare turbocharger in the garage; You never know when you'll need one to remove a broken bolt.
Exactly! It’s the gift that keeps on giving!
Yep. When your boss sees you grabbing a turbo out of your toolbox, he'll be like wtf?