In german: "Arbeite nicht so genau wie möglich, sondern so genau wie nötig!" In english: "Do not work as accurately as possible, but as accurately as necessary!" 😉 Greetings from Dresden! 👍👍👍😎 PS.: It's a useful tool! 👍
Michael Koch - Could not agree more. Just wanted to make sure I was giving it a fair review of what to expect. Was within my tolerance and a huge time saver. Thanks for the comment!
My lathe at work is larger, but there I use a stop in the spindle. As you said: with your setup the stop is relative to the collet, with a spindel-stop it is relative to the lathe. If I understand your imperial right, your "two thou" is 2*0.0254mm= 0.058mm tolerance/differance? That is about a hair...
Johannes Laxell - Yes, I think you have it. A stop relative to the lathe should reduce some of the variability. My converter for .002” came up with 0.0508mm but agree just a hair 😀. Thanks for the comment.
What i can recomend is the technik of Stefan Gotteswinter about 5c collets if u need a tip for higher precission, but overall i would say its a great video.
The burning question in my mind is... Why not drill deep enough (into the part of the material inside the collet) to let you part off a number of pieces? Seems like a lot of extra work to do it for each part. Overall a great video! But man if you do these all the time maybe consider a sherline CNC 😁
guitarchitectural - I appreciate the comment and have tried drilling deeper. I used to do these in sets of three with more sticking out. The bottom line is without coolant drilling the titanium any deeper stats to build up more heat and you need to start peck drilling and clearing chips. This overall seemed like the best trade off but I am sure more efficiency could be found. I have a CNC mill maybe a small CNC lathe one day. Still just an evening and weekend hobby so can only justify so much. Thanks for watching and keep the comments coming.
Why do you need to change the tools on the DRO when you are machining everything manually? It's not like it is a CNC with a program? * Buy a small CNC lathe that can knock these parts out in a tenth of the time? As the way and time you are doing these parts can't be profitable?
Li'l Pete's Workshop - Thanks for the comments. You don't have to change the tool, you could write down all the DRO numbers you are going to for each tool instead. I just find that when I do that, all the numbers are crazy random numbers and it is a lot harder to memorize your formula for speedy repeatability. By using the tool offsets, I can turn each tool to either a 0 reading or some other more easily remembered reading on the DRO and not have to look at my notes on every tool change. No I am not a CNC but I try to leverage the power of my DRO to make it faster and easier and show others another way to do things. A small CNC would definitely be faster, life is all about trade offs. Making these myself is a lot cheaper for me than outsourcing them. Owning a small CNC would take up space I don't have and sit for weeks at a time not running, that is not profitable either. Making knives is sort of a labor of love. This is my weekend and evening hobby so I can't always justify all the tools I would like. The profitability equation for my hobby is can I get the sales to pay for all the materials and resources. I don't think it will ever pay for the time I spend, then it would be work and possibly not as fun anymore. Cheers!
Take a #4-48 tap and tap the ends to allow the use of indicator tips for plunge indicators.. then you can just cheat n use them for them funky small stops
Wags - thanks for the question. I felt it was safer to shut it off moving the tool holder back and forth over the chuck. It is 3 phase so not as big of an issue than if it were a single phase motor.
@dimsum5567 - Thanks for the comment. I had never heard of a dead length chuck. Just did a little reading, makes sense. Good to know what other options are out there thanks.
@@BladesIIB basically your problem is that your collet stop moves together with your collet when you are tightening it, so you can’t get the same part length, the stop is always at a random location…
Wags - Agree did not refer to it much after I got going. But it did help me as I was setting up the offsets initially and remembering the numbers to turn to for each tool. Also makes it easier to refer to in a month when I am making more of these.
It's a systematic approach being demonstrated on a teaching-oriented youtube channel. Sure, this is not a particularly involved sequence. So what? He's demonstrating best practices for an informal production setup. Now he has a record of exactly what he did for future reference. I wish I were as detail oriented as he is...I'd probably make fewer mistakes and also learn more from the mistakes I do make.
In german: "Arbeite nicht so genau wie möglich, sondern so genau wie nötig!" In english: "Do not work as accurately as possible, but as accurately as necessary!" 😉
Greetings from Dresden! 👍👍👍😎
PS.: It's a useful tool! 👍
Michael Koch - Could not agree more. Just wanted to make sure I was giving it a fair review of what to expect. Was within my tolerance and a huge time saver. Thanks for the comment!
My lathe at work is larger, but there I use a stop in the spindle. As you said: with your setup the stop is relative to the collet, with a spindel-stop it is relative to the lathe. If I understand your imperial right, your "two thou" is 2*0.0254mm= 0.058mm tolerance/differance? That is about a hair...
Johannes Laxell - Yes, I think you have it. A stop relative to the lathe should reduce some of the variability. My converter for .002” came up with 0.0508mm but agree just a hair 😀. Thanks for the comment.
What i can recomend is the technik of Stefan Gotteswinter about 5c collets if u need a tip for higher precission, but overall i would say its a great video.
Misty - Thank you for the comment. I will definitely check his video and technique.
The burning question in my mind is... Why not drill deep enough (into the part of the material inside the collet) to let you part off a number of pieces? Seems like a lot of extra work to do it for each part.
Overall a great video! But man if you do these all the time maybe consider a sherline CNC 😁
guitarchitectural - I appreciate the comment and have tried drilling deeper. I used to do these in sets of three with more sticking out. The bottom line is without coolant drilling the titanium any deeper stats to build up more heat and you need to start peck drilling and clearing chips. This overall seemed like the best trade off but I am sure more efficiency could be found. I have a CNC mill maybe a small CNC lathe one day. Still just an evening and weekend hobby so can only justify so much. Thanks for watching and keep the comments coming.
Why do you need to change the tools on the DRO when you are machining everything manually?
It's not like it is a CNC with a program?
* Buy a small CNC lathe that can knock these parts out in a tenth of the time?
As the way and time you are doing these parts can't be profitable?
Li'l Pete's Workshop - Thanks for the comments. You don't have to change the tool, you could write down all the DRO numbers you are going to for each tool instead. I just find that when I do that, all the numbers are crazy random numbers and it is a lot harder to memorize your formula for speedy repeatability. By using the tool offsets, I can turn each tool to either a 0 reading or some other more easily remembered reading on the DRO and not have to look at my notes on every tool change. No I am not a CNC but I try to leverage the power of my DRO to make it faster and easier and show others another way to do things. A small CNC would definitely be faster, life is all about trade offs. Making these myself is a lot cheaper for me than outsourcing them. Owning a small CNC would take up space I don't have and sit for weeks at a time not running, that is not profitable either. Making knives is sort of a labor of love. This is my weekend and evening hobby so I can't always justify all the tools I would like. The profitability equation for my hobby is can I get the sales to pay for all the materials and resources. I don't think it will ever pay for the time I spend, then it would be work and possibly not as fun anymore. Cheers!
Take a #4-48 tap and tap the ends to allow the use of indicator tips for plunge indicators.. then you can just cheat n use them for them funky small stops
@jimszabo1239 - Great suggestion. Thanks for the comment.
it's the same rpm for every operation why shut the lathe off between each step. seems like a lot of wear on the motor spinning up
Wags - thanks for the question. I felt it was safer to shut it off moving the tool holder back and forth over the chuck. It is 3 phase so not as big of an issue than if it were a single phase motor.
@@BladesIIB think of the time you'd save if the drondisplay and tool holders were down near the carriage or closer to you!
@@guitarchitectural Thanks for the comment. Yes that would be a time saver, good thinking.
For the algorithm
@aquilifergroup - Thanks! Appreciate the comment.
There will be no repeatability as this isn’t a dead length chuck
@dimsum5567 - Thanks for the comment. I had never heard of a dead length chuck. Just did a little reading, makes sense. Good to know what other options are out there thanks.
@@BladesIIB basically your problem is that your collet stop moves together with your collet when you are tightening it, so you can’t get the same part length, the stop is always at a random location…
For every unit difference in diameter the stop moves 3.
not to be a jerk but, I figured you would be past having to write down the order of operations for the lathe.
Wags - Agree did not refer to it much after I got going. But it did help me as I was setting up the offsets initially and remembering the numbers to turn to for each tool. Also makes it easier to refer to in a month when I am making more of these.
It's a systematic approach being demonstrated on a teaching-oriented youtube channel. Sure, this is not a particularly involved sequence. So what? He's demonstrating best practices for an informal production setup. Now he has a record of exactly what he did for future reference. I wish I were as detail oriented as he is...I'd probably make fewer mistakes and also learn more from the mistakes I do make.
@@steveh8724 Appreciate the comment. Yes, the notes can definitely help with learning and looking back after the uh oh to see what happened.