This week’s popular “Why Didn’t You Just” comment is, why didn’t I buy 5/8-11 threaded rod as use that? Because: 1) I wanted something nicer than that 2) I like to make things. Which is, you know, the whole point of this whole thing.
When I needed a draw-bar for my lathe, I made one. My lathe has a tapered hole in the back, so I just made a taper-plug type things. Then I needed the other of M10 or M12 that I started with, and made another - which is a bit nicer, as I learned a little on doing the first one.
Ouch! I did say I cheated. And I like making things. Ones I can't buy cheaply. I'm running out of time, you see. Oh yes, and I have built and installed James' ELS. It's fantastic. Came up with a neat way of placing the motor and rotary encoder. BobUK.
Good video. After making my ER32 drawbar, I soon cut off the morse taper and shrink fit the body onto a flange mount. It didnt take long before I wanted an ER40 chuck and turned one. Recut the taper to reduce any runout.
nice work! collet chucks are very handy. I'd suggest trying to index it around in your spindle nose... i bet you'll find a position of least error. mark both parts for future reference. also check the squareness of your matings faces and the end (back) of your spindle.
I've also read, but not tried myself, that you can get a thou or two by gently rapping on the collet nut. I mean with a copper hammer, not quiet rhyming.
Hi Tony! I am wondering where everyone is on this young ladies channel. She is so good. Does she need to rebuild an old milling machine to get attention? I have no doubt she could. Quinn, you know what you have to do. I know. You have a day job, just like me. HEY, TONY! Where's that chainsaw Go Kart? ;-) Love to All!
I bought an ER32 collet closer off of AliExpress a few years back. It worked ok but had excessive runout. I recently splurged on a Taiwanese one (Ann-Way, I think). Much better, negligible runout. Mine is swapped between my mill and my lathe, and when holding a cutting tool in the mill, the cheaper holder was only cutting on one flute due to the runout. I just use a piece of threaded rod with a handwheel on the end as a drawbar, because I'm a heathen. I turned an aluminium collar the ID of the spindle bore and have it double-nutted partway down so the rod can't whip around. I'm not a fan of transmitting shock loads through the headstock bearings, so I cut a piece of PVC pipe and milled a couple of slots in it. This slips over the body of the chuck, and you close the nut against it, holding the chuck from turning using the spanner through the milled slots. Pops right out of the taper like Yahtzee.
Just a suggestion. Go check your runout on the collet chuck again, then mark the position with a sharpie. Loosen the chuck and twist it 90°. See if the runout improves.
I was going to suggest this, just keep trying until you get the smallest error, then mark for future reference. I spent 2 days machining a lump of steel down to make my own ER32 chuck that bolts to the spindle nose, I don't think it's any more accurate then the ebay parts.
@@Thebowber Yes, I have made several ER chucks, different sizes, but now I have a new lathe and have to make some for a D1-5 spindle nose. Wish me luck, I doesn't have a mill to make the pins. I am imagining how I can make them with a 4 jaw.
Not sure what kind of carbide you're using, but a polished pcd insert for aluminum gets me absurdly good finishes in steel on a 7x14 lathe. They're cheap for what you get, around $5 a piece from eBay. It's ground super sharp which makes it easy to take accurate final passes on wet noodle machines. Likewise, ground inserts for aluminum give excellent finishes as well.
Hi Quinn, I find your videos brilliant, your attention to detail and your explanations without taking a breath are 10 out of 10 and easy to understand, gives an old bloke like me confidence in attempting more jobs on my lathe, thank you, Cheers Al.
My used lathe (South Bend 9A) came with a ton of tooling, including a mystery draw bar that I couldn't figure out. It didn't fit any collets that could fit the lathe - it wasn't a tube so not for 3C, not the right threada for 3MT collets, not the right threads for R9 (not that an R9 could ever fit the lathe). No one on the South Bend FB groups could identify it. Total mystery.... until I just watched this video! The lathe also came with an ER32 collet chuck much like this, that fits the #3 Morse Taper in my spindle. I've never used it yet, so hadn't th ught about it. That's what the draw bar is for! Mystery revealed! All thanks to this channel. :)
That's right. I really hate having to put the 4 Jaw especially because it is so heavy and so much more trouble than the 3 jaw. the ER is the best but I have to make them now for my new lathe.
I'm making an ER32 collet chuck for myself today, luckily I found a closer with a 1 inch (25mm) hole diameter straight shaft at the back so I can make a through hole chuck. Very important details and helpful tips in this video, thank you. I've learnt a lot from your videos.
Hi Quinn, I had a similar chatter problem when trying to turn down a long steel shaft using a live center. I switched to a dead center and that solved the problem. My live center was a "high quality" Bison live center, so I was surprised but very glad to solve the problem so easily.
So refreshing. A machinist who know her stuff and is awesomely articulate! I’ve been using ER collets in sizes 16, 32, 40 for many years and they are my go-to holders, even for drilling, tailstock tool holding, etc.. My Jacobs Chuck suffered from isolation and being ignored... I fabricated a drawbar and adapter for my MT5 spindle (~40 year old Maximat Super 11). And, yes, they are used in my Emco jr.-sized MT2 mill too using their standard MT2 holders. I’ve also brought a trick over from my wood lathe I fabricated both follow and steady rests from in-line skate wheels. Eliminates the problems when following or supporting unfinished materials yet nicely controls chatter. Sorry I can’t provide photos but everything is packed for an upcoming and very traumatic move...
I like how you are down to earth and show some of the older methods. I hit hard times about a year ago and my dreams of a shop were put on hold. Now I'm currently hand fitting hardware store parts and 3d printed components to make a crank driven watchmakers lathe from one of those "modular Chinese lathe/mill/grinder/car buffer/can opener combos". Anyway, you show how you can use skill and patience to solve problems other people I have seen throw money at and go "eh, good enough".
I am a total noob beginner on the lathe. My Dad gave me an old hobby lathe to mess around with. Most of the things on your videos are well beyond me at this point, but I love watching what you are building and how you do the different operations... something mesmerizing about it. Thanks for the great videos! Love the humor you pop in there too! Bye by mild garbage steel... ;-)
For this type of work I start with centerless ground stock and then put the follower rest onto the ground stock, that way, I have absolutely no chatter and do a nice thread on the end.
I made an er32 chuck in about 3 hours for my logan. It helps to have a threaded spindle nose. and it really helps to have a toolpost grinder. I had ZERO measurable run-out.
Rooting around in the stygian underworld that is the cupboard space under the 70 year old Boxford lathes at work, I found a couple of collet chuck sets; I keep meaning to drag them out and try them - this has inspired me to do just that!
@@DavidLindes Meh. Not sure I want to make ER collets. I have made several one-off "hold this thing that doesn't fit in anything". The reason I made the chuck for it is that I bought a full set from, I think 2 or 4mm up to 20mm, so I should be good for most things.
@@matspatpc cool cool, fair enough. I guess I just want to see All The Things getting made. And maybe do some of it myself, when I hopefully one day have a shop.
@@DavidLindes Sure. Maybe next time I can't hold some odd size in ER25, I'll make one - I don't have a full set of those, although so far I've not found something I can't hold with what I've got - and I haven't got an MT2 colllet chuck for ER32...
I have to say, you are one crafty machinist, well done, well represented, and a wonderful finish product. Your knowledge and thought to your work reminds me of Joe Pi who is a master at his craft.
An excellent video as usual. I have one more ebay find you might enjoy. The "for aluminum" carbide inserts that are honed razor sharp and have loads of positive rake work wonders on our hobby sized lathes. I cut steel with them routinely and they are surprisingly tough.
@John Ghatti Sorry to be so slow, but I have been a bit swamped. I use several different ground "for aluminum" inserts and routinely use any of them on steel. Currently on hand I have: WCGT TCGT VCGT CCGT DCGT The high positive rake and razor sharp edges keep the cutting pressures low and the surface finishes smooth. Our small lower powered machines benefit greatly.
You will really like having a collet chuck. Quick and easy holding short parts even on threads. I ordered a collet chuck & collet set with my PM lathe. The chuck is the set-tru type and the 5C collets are very good. Using gage pins it gives better than .0005' total runout. I've only used the inside stop a few times but it works great, one of the advantages of the 5C. The disadvantage is how many collets it takes to make a complete set, but they get used on the tool grinder and spin index also. Thanks for the video.
Super video with great timing. I have been contemplating a collet chuck for a while and the information provided of the various types and advantages of each was just what I needed. Seeing a home brew solution is icing on the cake!
I recently made a drawbar and one thing I added was a delrin doughnut, just slightly smaller than spindle bore, and a tight fit around the drawbar. Shoved it a few inches from the collet end. This way when inserting the bar it prevents the bar from dropping and scratching the spindle bore, and also centers it so it’s easy to find the thread in the back of the collet.
I added an ER 40 collet chuck on my Sheldon 10X56 Lathe. Runout is identical to the spindle to my ability to measure it. This is a good project! It is amazing how good of quality we get for what we pay for Ebay items. I often go buy a missing die or tap, and also often start a thread single point and do my test fit with a die, after which I always find the nut fits.
I actually tried to build a drawbar a few years ago. Seeing your design i think i know why project went off the rails, Plus i have learned a few things too. thanks for sharing
I like your channel. In the past when I did not have thread gage wires readily available; I’ve resorted to using drill bits of the appropriate size (three of the same size). There are of course apps that you can get on your phone to do the math.
Quinn, I really like the simple elegance of your collet chuck! I'll share an old school machinist's trick for getting rid of some of that run out (not that under a thou is bad). As you showed the run out in the MT4/ER32 adapter is added to the inherent spindle run out, or it can actually cancel some of the spindle run out depending on how it's indexed. My suggestion is to take the time to find the indexing that yields the lowest run out on the ER32 taper (since collets, especially inexpensive ones add their own run out, and each is different) then put a witness mark on both the spindle nose and collet adapter so it can always be installed in the position with the least run out.
It has probably been mentioned before, but listening to your voice, I think I am listening to Martha Stewart......and I keep waiting for you to pull something out of the oven........this was a fantastic video and I plan on trying to make one of these myself.....thank you so much for making this......you are a wonderful presenter.........and very knowledgeable and talented......best wishes, Paul
Great video, I enjoyed it very much. I liked how you overcame all the little snags and limitations of your equipment. Look forward to the next one. ER collets are really popular in the UK. You can also improve concentricity of them by using a ball race closing nut. These are relatively cheap and incorporate a thrust bearing which enables you to tighten the collet down more. Tests show this positively affects concentricity.
Simply brilliant ! (And Funny bits too) Lifting impression from internal thread in a small bore. Engineers Blue paste or equivalent and use a wooden match-stick to pick up the pitch. My tiny contribution 😊
Interesting that you are doing this project. I have just purchased a set of ER40 collets with an R8 holder for my mill. I also purchased a Brown & Sharp #9 holder for my horizontal mill so all I have to do now is get the Morse 3 for the lathe and I will be making a draw bar for that. I do have a set of 3AT collets for the lathe that are through hole but they are limited to 1/2".
This is EXACTLY where I was going with my lathe! I have a larger 100 uear old beast thats off brandedness leaves me with few options for direct fit parts. Now I'll definitely add it to the cue of lathe specific lathe projects, need to make a new backing plate for the one and only chucking came with. Because the current plate is cracked around 2 bolt holes, and a protector to go over the spindle nose threads.
I used a piece of all thread, a spacer and a nut for my draw bar. Probably not the best way to do it but I needed a quick and dirty setup to get some parts done.
Your examination of different aspects of "shop stuff" is always very thurough this collet chuck on is probly real thought provoking at many skill levels. Real quick the things I learned was when my er40 was new (1/16" collets chuck $115 small block chevy piston crown adapter(free) ) It was self loosening constant tightning use no oil on the taper keep the threads clean and oiled it wears in as I used it and became more acurate as time went on and i use it all the time right now I'm friction driving some 3/4" shank 6mm weldon shank holders by a 6 mm dowel i set true to turn the shank so Its (there) dead nuts. and thats the kinda stuff I always gotta do those 5 6mm carbo nitride coated carbide endmills for $18 just to tasty to turn down and I dont want em' to crawl out so the set screw holders will be awesome ya keep it up your awesome! Oh ya I have sieg c6 type lathe I modified the gear change so the thread change and powerfeed are on "cassette's" Ya a real quick change gear box ha ha electronic lead is the modern cure cheap too!!
I added a rod holding system to one of these 4mt collet chucks, but it still did not hold stock true. The run out was about 0.005. The chuck in the Morse tape was concentric to 0.001 on the outside, but much farther out on the inside of the Morse taper cone. So I used the lathe to remove a few 0.001s parrelel to the inside of the cone. This was a great improvement and the runout is less than 0.001.
Thank you quinn! I just came accross some old sb collets but finding the drawbar rig for a 11" series O is damn near impossible, this lays out a nice order of operations for me.
Hi Blondihacks, Wow, have just found your channel I will subscribe. Very well explained. You are a very good engineer. It is a pleasure to watch you work. Thank you, JACK (Catherines husband) from the UK!
Congrats on the new collet closer. I have a 5C chuck similar to Clough42's and I absolutely love having it. I have a D1-4 spindle and find myself switching between the 3 jaw and the collet chuck all of the time. I hope you enjoy your new acquisition as much as I have enjoyed mine.
Nice, Quinn. I just did something similar to that with an ER32 collet set I bought in China late last year. Really nicely made, 5um tolerance. 3mm-20mm continuous coverage in a metal case.
If you want a good finish with carbide when taking a light cut, try xxGT aluminium inserts. DCGT inserts have got me out of trouble a few times when I misjudged and only needed to take off a thin skim. You can't push these cutters hard and they wear out faster than inserts designed for steel but they get the job done. They are also fantastic on wood. I turn quite a few wooden parts and with DCGT inserts I hardly have to do any sanding to finish them.
@@ryanwicker4037 I think it came from Machifit or Drillpro via Banggood.com. Banggood is kinda the Amazon of China. I've gotten most of the tooling for my Grizzly lathe directly from China. Before the covid kicked in, it took about 7 - 12 days to arrive. It's taking much longer now days. Shipping is cheap. The stuff sold on Amazon is from the same sources, I bet.
Got myself an er32 collet closer a couple days ago, probably same supplier, and nowIm here taking notes on how you did your drawbar haha thanks Quinn awesome vid!
I have the same kind but ER40. I made a hollow drawbar out of 1" .. max OD that will fit through my spindle .. mechanical tubing. I attached some ends with one having the 5/8" 11 thread but with a .. I think .. a 7/16" hole through it so I can pass long work through it. The other end is set up so I can put a adjustable stop rod through it so I can make repeatable cuts when needed.
I saw that!!! At 25:53, you put the spanner in your right hand on top of the work. Then when you removed it, the spanner was correctly under the collet chuck. Righty tighty, lefty loosey thing.. While video editing is great, I just had to point it out. Your vids are awesome. I only wish I had something to send you to help your tool inventory. I am a huge fan. John
I enjoy watching your videos, and seeing how you approach different tasks and problems. Your results are always impressive. Many times I have supported a workpiece close to the end with only the steady rest. I would use a dial indicator to adjust the steady rest jaws to minimize or even eliminate runout. For a few light passes on a thread like you needed this would be a snap. Not as accurate as staying in centers, but very workable. Have you considered using some ground high positive inserts for aluminum on the mild steel? They actually work well, but the edge doesn't last as long. You can also buy HSS inserts to go in your holder. I think at least a couple companies market them to owners of hobby type lathes. Then again, you can always grind your own HSS bits and not worry about the insert holders. Thanks for all you do.
I bought the Shars mt4 to ER40 collet chuck. After I put together my set-tru version I figured I'd never use my taper shank chuck. Today I spent time figuring out how to use the collet stop feature to turn washers. You can use a very small set screw to lock in the right length of socket head cap screw to make your stop, but you can also lightly face off the stop in place for thinner stuff like washers. I'm ordering some flat head screws for better support for stuff under 0.060" thick. My shars runs out well under 0.001" measured on gauge pin.
Interesting approach. I made my own backing plate for my Atlas-Craftsman 12”. I have never heard of anyone using R8s in a lathe. Another advantage of ER32s over 5Cs is that there is more gripping area on the part being machined. Nice job with this video.
Ive got a tip for you. My deburring lathe tool .using an half round file. On the flat side at the end Grind it removing about 1/8= to 1/4= leaving it sharp . turning it over grind half away leaving an arc or 30 degree tilting file to make the hook like on deburring cutters .I made one about forty years ago I used an 8* file. Doing lots of parts it works to file chamfer and hook to deburr holes. Ive never had to resharpen it. on a mill it works better then deburring tools
Hi Quinn!! :-) The clamp, the boiler, the blocks and the aluminum turning was very inspiring. Thank You. Also the block punch alignment trying to concentrate on what I am supposed to focus on...ahem. Great work on everything. Don't worry if you screw up a little, we all do. I'm still alive and I screwed up two times. Wanna make it three? Just kidding! Love your work, Quinn. I have been out of the machine shop for some time but I can see your shine. I am now going for a ride on my motorcycle. :-)
I have an ER32 collet chuck on my 7x12 lathe that I bought on Amazon for ~$100, built to register on the 100mm backing plate that my 3-jaw normally bolts to. Very happy with it, and only out by about 2 thou at the part
I've had good results on troublesome cold-rolled using a KC732 type inserts. I can take light cuts at low SFM without getting that torn up finish. It's a TPG type insert with no chip breaker geometry. I think the neutral rake is what helps.
I bought a er32 chuck from China that bolts onto my lathe plate which works well. This also allows a piece to feed through without a stop and also fits closer to the head. I guess you were just using the mt4 part you received instead of making a bolt on plate. Enjoy your videos very much and learn a lot for using my northern mill lathe combo for my garage projects!
Great video,one suggestion I would have is to replace the collet nut with a bearing nut. Much easier to tighten and part is less likely to move when tightened
Thank you for repeatedly featuring the difficulties of turning mild steel to reassure me that I don't suck at using a lathe. I have some lengths of garbage hot-rolled steel from Lowes that I use to make mandrills and other things, and turning that stuff is a NIGHTMARE.
I bought two of these Chinese MT4-ER32 collet holders for my mill. The MT4 on the mill has less than 0.001mm runout. Both collet holders are all over the place (one has over 0.1mm runout..). I ended up buying a set of MT4 collets, these are almost perfect.
I didn't understand why this was needed. I didn't understand this episode. Maybe this channel has become too technical for me. I hope not, but it's been a good ride so far. I'll watch this again to see if I pick it up. Thank you for the puzzle.
Great work and really good demonstrations. I’m fascinated by how the thread is done on the large but don’t quite understand how the tool was aligned with the thread for subsequent passes because thought that you’d need to stop the lathe and back track it in reverse with the lead screw still engaged, but it looked like you were just hand cranking the tool back and then re-engaging the lead screw. Cheers
This week’s popular “Why Didn’t You Just” comment is, why didn’t I buy 5/8-11 threaded rod as use that? Because:
1) I wanted something nicer than that
2) I like to make things. Which is, you know, the whole point of this whole thing.
All-thread is for amateurs. I was yelling “make a draw bar!”. It turned out good!
@@wildin13 The ER closer nut thread is, but on the draw bar end it’s the Wild West. You can get all manner of posteriors on these things.
When I needed a draw-bar for my lathe, I made one. My lathe has a tapered hole in the back, so I just made a taper-plug type things.
Then I needed the other of M10 or M12 that I started with, and made another - which is a bit nicer, as I learned a little on doing the first one.
Ouch! I did say I cheated. And I like making things. Ones I can't buy cheaply. I'm running out of time, you see. Oh yes, and I have built and installed James' ELS. It's fantastic. Came up with a neat way of placing the motor and rotary encoder. BobUK.
Good video. After making my ER32 drawbar, I soon cut off the morse taper and shrink fit the body onto a flange mount. It didnt take long before I wanted an ER40 chuck and turned one. Recut the taper to reduce any runout.
nice work! collet chucks are very handy. I'd suggest trying to index it around in your spindle nose... i bet you'll find a position of least error. mark both parts for future reference. also check the squareness of your matings faces and the end (back) of your spindle.
@@theoriginalDirtybill And we need more humor on the machinist sites.lol
I've also read, but not tried myself, that you can get a thou or two by gently rapping on the collet nut. I mean with a copper hammer, not quiet rhyming.
Aaaah, i see another collaboration coming ...
love it!
Hi Tony! I am wondering where everyone is on this young ladies channel. She is so good. Does she need to rebuild an old milling machine to get attention? I have no doubt she could. Quinn, you know what you have to do. I know. You have a day job, just like me. HEY, TONY! Where's that chainsaw Go Kart? ;-) Love to All!
I bought an ER32 collet closer off of AliExpress a few years back. It worked ok but had excessive runout. I recently splurged on a Taiwanese one (Ann-Way, I think). Much better, negligible runout. Mine is swapped between my mill and my lathe, and when holding a cutting tool in the mill, the cheaper holder was only cutting on one flute due to the runout.
I just use a piece of threaded rod with a handwheel on the end as a drawbar, because I'm a heathen. I turned an aluminium collar the ID of the spindle bore and have it double-nutted partway down so the rod can't whip around. I'm not a fan of transmitting shock loads through the headstock bearings, so I cut a piece of PVC pipe and milled a couple of slots in it. This slips over the body of the chuck, and you close the nut against it, holding the chuck from turning using the spanner through the milled slots. Pops right out of the taper like Yahtzee.
I was really drawn into this project. Chuck this video into your top ten, and collet a winner. That's all I got.
Bar talk, with a spin.
Another great video, Quinn. I especially enjoyed the 'Sparkle Spanner'!
Send it to Bad Obsession to run through their cad plating rig
She has great terms that she uses. I loved the name too.
Just a suggestion. Go check your runout on the collet chuck again, then mark the position with a sharpie. Loosen the chuck and twist it 90°. See if the runout improves.
I was going to suggest this, just keep trying until you get the smallest error, then mark for future reference.
I spent 2 days machining a lump of steel down to make my own ER32 chuck that bolts to the spindle nose, I don't think it's any more accurate then the ebay parts.
Good idea!
@@Thebowber Yes, I have made several ER chucks, different sizes, but now I have a new lathe and have to make some for a D1-5 spindle nose. Wish me luck, I doesn't have a mill to make the pins. I am imagining how I can make them with a 4 jaw.
@@davidwillard7334 ??Who is offering excuses? You don't make any cents
Not sure what kind of carbide you're using, but a polished pcd insert for aluminum gets me absurdly good finishes in steel on a 7x14 lathe. They're cheap for what you get, around $5 a piece from eBay. It's ground super sharp which makes it easy to take accurate final passes on wet noodle machines.
Likewise, ground inserts for aluminum give excellent finishes as well.
All that work you did on that steady rest payed off.
Such rest. So steady.
It did! That thing is a joy to use now
@@Blondihacks Now you need to do the same thing to the follower rest... ;)
It is amazing I've had a mill and a lathe for some 25 years now, but I still learn something every day. Thank you for excellent videos Quinn.
Hi Quinn, I find your videos brilliant, your attention to detail and your explanations without taking a breath are 10 out of 10 and easy to understand, gives an old bloke like me confidence in attempting more jobs on my lathe, thank you, Cheers Al.
Thank you for the censorship at 7:40!
My mind goes straight to the gutter when watching machining vids!
:)
Oh, I was wondering wtf that digital blur was
My used lathe (South Bend 9A) came with a ton of tooling, including a mystery draw bar that I couldn't figure out. It didn't fit any collets that could fit the lathe - it wasn't a tube so not for 3C, not the right threada for 3MT collets, not the right threads for R9 (not that an R9 could ever fit the lathe). No one on the South Bend FB groups could identify it. Total mystery.... until I just watched this video!
The lathe also came with an ER32 collet chuck much like this, that fits the #3 Morse Taper in my spindle. I've never used it yet, so hadn't th ught about it. That's what the draw bar is for! Mystery revealed! All thanks to this channel. :)
I don’t know how you have lived this long with out one! They are awesome. I get grumpy when I have to put a chuck on my lathe.
That's right. I really hate having to put the 4 Jaw especially because it is so heavy and so much more trouble than the 3 jaw. the ER is the best but I have to make them now for my new lathe.
I'm making an ER32 collet chuck for myself today, luckily I found a closer with a 1 inch (25mm) hole diameter straight shaft at the back so I can make a through hole chuck. Very important details and helpful tips in this video, thank you. I've learnt a lot from your videos.
Hi Quinn, I had a similar chatter problem when trying to turn down a long steel shaft using a live center. I switched to a dead center and that solved the problem. My live center was a "high quality" Bison live center, so I was surprised but very glad to solve the problem so easily.
So refreshing. A machinist who know her stuff and is awesomely articulate! I’ve been using ER collets in sizes 16, 32, 40 for many years and they are my go-to holders, even for drilling, tailstock tool holding, etc.. My Jacobs Chuck suffered from isolation and being ignored... I fabricated a drawbar and adapter for my MT5 spindle (~40 year old Maximat Super 11). And, yes, they are used in my Emco jr.-sized MT2 mill too using their standard MT2 holders.
I’ve also brought a trick over from my wood lathe I fabricated both follow and steady rests from in-line skate wheels. Eliminates the problems when following or supporting unfinished materials yet nicely controls chatter. Sorry I can’t provide photos but everything is packed for an upcoming and very traumatic move...
I like how you are down to earth and show some of the older methods. I hit hard times about a year ago and my dreams of a shop were put on hold. Now I'm currently hand fitting hardware store parts and 3d printed components to make a crank driven watchmakers lathe from one of those "modular Chinese lathe/mill/grinder/car buffer/can opener combos". Anyway, you show how you can use skill and patience to solve problems other people I have seen throw money at and go "eh, good enough".
Just had a 8x32 lathe delivered for my birthday and that make this very timely, thanks for your time😊
Great new tool there Quinn. Good job and well done.
I am a total noob beginner on the lathe. My Dad gave me an old hobby lathe to mess around with. Most of the things on your videos are well beyond me at this point, but I love watching what you are building and how you do the different operations... something mesmerizing about it. Thanks for the great videos! Love the humor you pop in there too! Bye by mild garbage steel... ;-)
Great video. It took me a minute, and then had to go back to make sure I was seeing you bleep out the finger job, absolute gold!
For this type of work I start with centerless ground stock and then put the follower rest onto the ground stock, that way, I have absolutely no chatter and do a nice thread on the end.
Watched a ton of machining videos awhile back and your explanation is as good as any. Bravo for leading us through your hack.
I made an er32 chuck in about 3 hours for my logan. It helps to have a threaded spindle nose. and it really helps to have a toolpost grinder. I had ZERO measurable run-out.
Rooting around in the stygian underworld that is the cupboard space under the 70 year old Boxford lathes at work, I found a couple of collet chuck sets; I keep meaning to drag them out and try them - this has inspired me to do just that!
I do love a good stygian underworld
Flat bottom holes, you make the rockin' world go 'round.
Nice project. I made an MT3 to ER32 chuck all from scratch, including the nut. More for the learning experience than the actual "better".
Now to make some collets, yeah? :)
@@DavidLindes Meh. Not sure I want to make ER collets. I have made several one-off "hold this thing that doesn't fit in anything".
The reason I made the chuck for it is that I bought a full set from, I think 2 or 4mm up to 20mm, so I should be good for most things.
@@matspatpc cool cool, fair enough. I guess I just want to see All The Things getting made. And maybe do some of it myself, when I hopefully one day have a shop.
@@DavidLindes Sure. Maybe next time I can't hold some odd size in ER25, I'll make one - I don't have a full set of those, although so far I've not found something I can't hold with what I've got - and I haven't got an MT2 colllet chuck for ER32...
I have to say, you are one crafty machinist, well done, well represented, and a wonderful finish product. Your knowledge and thought to your work reminds me of Joe Pi who is a master at his craft.
Crap. Headed out to the shop to redo my drawbar now... because now I know a better way to do it! Thanks Q!
An excellent video as usual. I have one more ebay find you might enjoy. The "for aluminum" carbide inserts that are honed razor sharp and have loads of positive rake work wonders on our hobby sized lathes. I cut steel with them routinely and they are surprisingly tough.
I know this is old but do you happen to have the insert number?
@John Ghatti Sorry to be so slow, but I have been a bit swamped. I use several different ground "for aluminum" inserts and routinely use any of them on steel. Currently on hand I have:
WCGT
TCGT
VCGT
CCGT
DCGT
The high positive rake and razor sharp edges keep the cutting pressures low and the surface finishes smooth. Our small lower powered machines benefit greatly.
You will really like having a collet chuck. Quick and easy holding short parts even on threads. I ordered a collet chuck & collet set with my PM lathe. The chuck is the set-tru type and the 5C collets are very good. Using gage pins it gives better than .0005' total runout. I've only used the inside stop a few times but it works great, one of the advantages of the 5C. The disadvantage is how many collets it takes to make a complete set, but they get used on the tool grinder and spin index also. Thanks for the video.
Super video with great timing. I have been contemplating a collet chuck for a while and the information provided of the various types and advantages of each was just what I needed. Seeing a home brew solution is icing on the cake!
There is a guy in New Joisey who made an excellent series on this.
I recently made a drawbar and one thing I added was a delrin doughnut, just slightly smaller than spindle bore, and a tight fit around the drawbar. Shoved it a few inches from the collet end. This way when inserting the bar it prevents the bar from dropping and scratching the spindle bore, and also centers it so it’s easy to find the thread in the back of the collet.
I do love the sparkel spanner. Very well done...
I added an ER 40 collet chuck on my Sheldon 10X56 Lathe. Runout is identical to the spindle to my ability to measure it. This is a good project! It is amazing how good of quality we get for what we pay for Ebay items. I often go buy a missing die or tap, and also often start a thread single point and do my test fit with a die, after which I always find the nut fits.
I actually tried to build a drawbar a few years ago. Seeing your design i think i know why project went off the rails, Plus i have learned a few things too. thanks for sharing
I like your channel. In the past when I did not have thread gage wires readily available; I’ve resorted to using drill bits of the appropriate size (three of the same size). There are of course apps that you can get on your phone to do the math.
Great video! I loved the subtle humor in the prussian blue segment.
l love the way her vids start! l bought a red hf laithe, ive had their mill 4 years. A novice learning.
Nice job Quinn! I'm off to give that a go. That's part of the beauty of our machines - they can improve and repair themselves 😄
Quinn, I really like the simple elegance of your collet chuck! I'll share an old school machinist's trick for getting rid of some of that run out (not that under a thou is bad). As you showed the run out in the MT4/ER32 adapter is added to the inherent spindle run out, or it can actually cancel some of the spindle run out depending on how it's indexed. My suggestion is to take the time to find the indexing that yields the lowest run out on the ER32 taper (since collets, especially inexpensive ones add their own run out, and each is different) then put a witness mark on both the spindle nose and collet adapter so it can always be installed in the position with the least run out.
Guess I should have read other people's comments first and saved myself all the 2 fingered hunt and peck typing. ;-)
Really useful project, and great examples of turning ops and setups for us hobbyists. Another great video, Quinn!
The lead damper to kill chatter is a really cool idea! I'd hose-clamped wood to things, but the lead's mass is way more effective.
How serendipitous! I have ER32 collets and diverse paraphernalia in the snail mail network. Thank you and keep up the good work!
Loved the pixel blurring of the "naughty bits". Sparkle spanners are also essential for unicorn horn adjustments, so you got that covered too, lol.
Thanks for another great video, Quinn.
Your comment on the carbide cutters was also very helpful.
It has probably been mentioned before, but listening to your voice, I think I am listening to Martha Stewart......and I keep waiting for you to pull something out of the oven........this was a fantastic video and I plan on trying to make one of these myself.....thank you so much for making this......you are a wonderful presenter.........and very knowledgeable and talented......best wishes, Paul
Great video, I enjoyed it very much. I liked how you overcame all the little snags and limitations of your equipment. Look forward to the next one. ER collets are really popular in the UK. You can also improve concentricity of them by using a ball race closing nut. These are relatively cheap and incorporate a thrust bearing which enables you to tighten the collet down more. Tests show this positively affects concentricity.
Simply brilliant ! (And Funny bits too) Lifting impression from internal thread in a small bore. Engineers Blue paste or equivalent and use a wooden match-stick to pick up the pitch. My tiny contribution 😊
I learn so much watching and listening to you. Thank you for posting your videos.
Interesting that you are doing this project. I have just purchased a set of ER40 collets with an R8 holder for my mill. I also purchased a Brown & Sharp #9 holder for my horizontal mill so all I have to do now is get the Morse 3 for the lathe and I will be making a draw bar for that. I do have a set of 3AT collets for the lathe that are through hole but they are limited to 1/2".
Nice shop Blondi..👍...good going all around too.
...youre one of my go to site for this kinda stuff...thanks!
I went and checked out Clough42's video which was awesome. Then he said to check out Blondihacks video so I came back here. I am now stuck in a loop.
This is EXACTLY where I was going with my lathe! I have a larger 100 uear old beast thats off brandedness leaves me with few options for direct fit parts. Now I'll definitely add it to the cue of lathe specific lathe projects, need to make a new backing plate for the one and only chucking came with. Because the current plate is cracked around 2 bolt holes, and a protector to go over the spindle nose threads.
Impressed with how much you get out of your lathe. I’ve got 4 at work and struggle a little with them.
I used a piece of all thread, a spacer and a nut for my draw bar. Probably not the best way to do it but I needed a quick and dirty setup to get some parts done.
Your examination of different aspects of "shop stuff" is always very thurough this collet chuck on is probly real thought provoking at many skill levels. Real quick the things I learned was when my er40 was new (1/16" collets chuck $115 small block chevy piston crown adapter(free) ) It was self loosening constant tightning use no oil on the taper keep the threads clean and oiled it wears in as I used it and became more acurate as time went on and i use it all the time right now I'm friction driving some 3/4" shank 6mm weldon shank holders by a 6 mm dowel i set true to turn the shank so Its (there) dead nuts. and thats the kinda stuff I always gotta do those 5 6mm carbo nitride coated carbide endmills for $18 just to tasty to turn down and I dont want em' to crawl out so the set screw holders will be awesome ya keep it up your awesome! Oh ya I have sieg c6 type lathe I modified the gear change so the thread change and powerfeed are on "cassette's" Ya a real quick change gear box ha ha electronic lead is the modern cure cheap too!!
I’m a simpleton. 1/2-13 stainless all thread cut to length and I was making other stuff. This is the “right way”. I’ll have to revisit that project.
I added a rod holding system to one of these 4mt collet chucks, but it still did not hold stock true. The run out was about 0.005. The chuck in the Morse tape was concentric to 0.001 on the outside, but much farther out on the inside of the Morse taper cone. So I used the lathe to remove a few 0.001s parrelel to the inside of the cone. This was a great improvement and the runout is less than 0.001.
Thank you quinn! I just came accross some old sb collets but finding the drawbar rig for a 11" series O is damn near impossible, this lays out a nice order of operations for me.
@@davidwillard7334 im all ears brother, where would you suggest i look?
Hi Blondihacks, Wow, have just found your channel I will subscribe. Very well explained. You are a very good engineer. It is a pleasure to watch you work. Thank you, JACK (Catherines husband) from the UK!
Congrats on the new collet closer. I have a 5C chuck similar to Clough42's and I absolutely love having it. I have a D1-4 spindle and find myself switching between the 3 jaw and the collet chuck all of the time. I hope you enjoy your new acquisition as much as I have enjoyed mine.
Great addition to the shop Quinn.
Thanks for sharing and best regards from the UK.
Nice, Quinn. I just did something similar to that with an ER32 collet set I bought in China late last year. Really nicely made, 5um tolerance. 3mm-20mm continuous coverage in a metal case.
If you want a good finish with carbide when taking a light cut, try xxGT aluminium inserts. DCGT inserts have got me out of trouble a few times when I misjudged and only needed to take off a thin skim. You can't push these cutters hard and they wear out faster than inserts designed for steel but they get the job done. They are also fantastic on wood. I turn quite a few wooden parts and with DCGT inserts I hardly have to do any sanding to finish them.
I picked up an er32 chuck with a backing plate to do the same but allows you to use the through hole. Thanks for sharing!
I did the same for my Grizzly lathe. It screwed right on where the three and four jaw chucks attach.
Link??
@@ryanwicker4037 try searching Ebay for ER32 Lathe chuck tool holder. Both Quinn's version and the backing plate version will be listed.
@@ryanwicker4037 I think it came from Machifit or Drillpro via Banggood.com. Banggood is kinda the Amazon of China. I've gotten most of the tooling for my Grizzly lathe directly from China. Before the covid kicked in, it took about 7 - 12 days to arrive. It's taking much longer now days. Shipping is cheap. The stuff sold on Amazon is from the same sources, I bet.
I blew milk out of my nose at the pixelated 'Prussian Blue' scene. LOL! Note to self: Don't watch Quinn during dinner...
I saw that but could not figure out why she was pixilating it. Is it naughty? I loves porn.
Got myself an er32 collet closer a couple days ago, probably same supplier, and nowIm here taking notes on how you did your drawbar haha thanks Quinn awesome vid!
I have the same kind but ER40. I made a hollow drawbar out of 1" .. max OD that will fit through my spindle .. mechanical tubing. I attached some ends with one having the 5/8" 11 thread but with a .. I think .. a 7/16" hole through it so I can pass long work through it. The other end is set up so I can put a adjustable stop rod through it so I can make repeatable cuts when needed.
Looking forward to you documenting the ELS modification for this lathe!
Great explanation on the ER collet Chuck. I am new to the lathe having just purchased a Harbor Freight 7 x 10. I want to get a Collet chuck.
I saw that!!! At 25:53, you put the spanner in your right hand on top of the work. Then when you removed it, the spanner was correctly under the collet chuck. Righty tighty, lefty loosey thing..
While video editing is great, I just had to point it out.
Your vids are awesome. I only wish I had something to send you to help your tool inventory. I am a huge fan.
John
Edit...duh, I just noticed it's just a simple wrench on two flats...color my face "red".
awesone vids, thank you.
I enjoy watching your videos, and seeing how you approach different tasks and problems. Your results are always impressive.
Many times I have supported a workpiece close to the end with only the steady rest. I would use a dial indicator to adjust the steady rest jaws to minimize or even eliminate runout. For a few light passes on a thread like you needed this would be a snap. Not as accurate as staying in centers, but very workable.
Have you considered using some ground high positive inserts for aluminum on the mild steel? They actually work well, but the edge doesn't last as long. You can also buy HSS inserts to go in your holder. I think at least a couple companies market them to owners of hobby type lathes. Then again, you can always grind your own HSS bits and not worry about the insert holders.
Thanks for all you do.
I bought the Shars mt4 to ER40 collet chuck. After I put together my set-tru version I figured I'd never use my taper shank chuck.
Today I spent time figuring out how to use the collet stop feature to turn washers. You can use a very small set screw to lock in the right length of socket head cap screw to make your stop, but you can also lightly face off the stop in place for thinner stuff like washers. I'm ordering some flat head screws for better support for stuff under 0.060" thick.
My shars runs out well under 0.001" measured on gauge pin.
Interesting approach. I made my own backing plate for my Atlas-Craftsman 12”.
I have never heard of anyone using R8s in a lathe.
Another advantage of ER32s over 5Cs is that there is more gripping area on the part being machined.
Nice job with this video.
Well, this is just absolutely freaking brilliant. Why don't I ever think of this stuff?
Low cost morse taper collets are a simple way to get collets inside a morse taper spindle as well. But like R8 collets, needs a solid drawbar at back.
Great video, Gwen. Many lathe operations very well demonstrated and explained. Thanks!
Hi Quinn,
Nice work today... Thanks for sharing...
Take care
Paul,,
Very polished presentation and I loved the build ood job . As for using endmills in the tailstock ...meh .. I use rotabroach and endmills 😁
alright, I lost my shit when you blurred out the bluing lmao loving your vids Quinn.
Ive got a tip for you. My deburring lathe tool .using an half round file. On the flat side at the end Grind it removing about 1/8= to 1/4= leaving it sharp . turning it over grind half away leaving an arc or 30 degree tilting file to make the hook like on deburring cutters .I made one about forty years ago I used an 8* file. Doing lots of parts it works to file chamfer and hook to deburr holes.
Ive never had to resharpen it. on a mill it works better then deburring tools
Hi Quinn!! :-) The clamp, the boiler, the blocks and the aluminum turning was very inspiring. Thank You. Also the block punch alignment trying to concentrate on what I am supposed to focus on...ahem. Great work on everything. Don't worry if you screw up a little, we all do. I'm still alive and I screwed up two times. Wanna make it three? Just kidding! Love your work, Quinn. I have been out of the machine shop for some time but I can see your shine. I am now going for a ride on my motorcycle. :-)
I have an ER32 collet chuck on my 7x12 lathe that I bought on Amazon for ~$100, built to register on the 100mm backing plate that my 3-jaw normally bolts to. Very happy with it, and only out by about 2 thou at the part
I've had good results on troublesome cold-rolled using a KC732 type inserts. I can take light cuts at low SFM without getting that torn up finish. It's a TPG type insert with no chip breaker geometry. I think the neutral rake is what helps.
Looks much nicer than my two bits of threaded rod welded together
I bought a er32 chuck from China that bolts onto my lathe plate which works well. This also allows a piece to feed through without a stop and also fits closer to the head. I guess you were just using the mt4 part you received instead of making a bolt on plate. Enjoy your videos very much and learn a lot for using my northern mill lathe combo for my garage projects!
Link??
@@ryanwicker4037 I bought it on amazon. share.icloud.com/photos/09rAfMZLCnaB9pwuyMTEFnq5w Hope you can get to it.
Thanks! Looking for one that’ll mount to my hf mini lathe. Sucks they’re out of stock
It's been a while...nice project. I love how you adapt on the fly.
Looking forward to the electronic lead screw install! Really cool to see your's and Clough42's videos today.
Just started watching you, at least you get on with stuff, most of the other machine channels stand and talk about crap. Go girl 😍
Great video,one suggestion I would have is to replace the collet nut with a bearing nut. Much easier to tighten and part is less likely to move when tightened
I have a MT3 x ER 32 collet holder. I like it except for the short work piece. I used all thread but it works great.
Thanks
Some reason, none of my junk has the heart animation flowing off it. Must be because your special Quinn
Thank you for repeatedly featuring the difficulties of turning mild steel to reassure me that I don't suck at using a lathe. I have some lengths of garbage hot-rolled steel from Lowes that I use to make mandrills and other things, and turning that stuff is a NIGHTMARE.
Big box hot roll is the worst
Flat-Bottom Mills you make my rockin' world go rooooound
I bought two of these Chinese MT4-ER32 collet holders for my mill. The MT4 on the mill has less than 0.001mm runout. Both collet holders are all over the place (one has over 0.1mm runout..).
I ended up buying a set of MT4 collets, these are almost perfect.
Sparkle Spanner! Very nice.
I didn't understand why this was needed. I didn't understand this episode. Maybe this channel has become too technical for me. I hope not, but it's been a good ride so far. I'll watch this again to see if I pick it up. Thank you for the puzzle.
I did the same thing but just used a long piece of M20 all-thread and made a washer. Works fine up to my max 2000rpm speed. (Morse taper 5 for mine).
Great work and really good demonstrations. I’m fascinated by how the thread is done on the large but don’t quite understand how the tool was aligned with the thread for subsequent passes because thought that you’d need to stop the lathe and back track it in reverse with the lead screw still engaged, but it looked like you were just hand cranking the tool back and then re-engaging the lead screw. Cheers
Lathe. Stupid auto correct.