I Bought the Cheapest 5C Collet Chuck on eBay: Is It Any Good?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ธ.ค. 2020
- I bought the cheapest 5C collet chuck on eBay! Is it bad? Is it good? Let's get it mounted and find out!
Blondihacks collet chuck video: • Collet Chuck From eBay...
Tools and items shown in this video:
*This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated
5C Collet Chuck (eBay*): ebay.to/3lMVbbr
Shars 0-4" Depth Micrometer (eBay*): ebay.to/37CthcO
Aventor 8" DPS IP54 Caliper (Amazon*): ebay.to/37y1Tg3
Shars AXA Quick Change Tool Post Set (eBay*): ebay.to/2SWkUQZ
Set of 4 CCMT0602 boring bars (eBay*): ebay.to/2SX3dRd
Shars CCMT0602 RH turning tool holder (eBay*): ebay.to/2SUS4jL
Kyocera CCMT060204-HQ Cermet Inserts (eBay*): ebay.to/2QPV53h
Shars .0005" dial test indicator (Amazon*): amzn.to/3lo3Stq
NogaFlex Indicator Holder with Fine Adjust (Amazon*): amzn.to/33FwerY
Shars Magnetic Back Indicator (eBay*): ebay.to/2JI77hg
Comically Large Casio Calculator (Amazon*): amzn.to/3g7HfXY
Shars 0-6" .0001" micrometer set (eBay*): ebay.to/2Md0xwi
Allen Metric Metric Hex Key Set (*Amazon): amzn.to/2BVUYNw
Allen SAE Hex Key Set (*Amazon): amzn.to/2BsnIfP
Edge Precision 5C Collet Stop (Amazon*): amzn.to/33HrXUO
Stefan Gotteswinter cautions that such devices should be viewed as kits and not finished machine tools. By all means get that apart and clean the insides well.
Find an impact driver!
The collet holder needs to come apart for cleaning and greaseing.
I bet those screws are left-hand threaded. Just, y'know, to screw with you 🤣
I was actually thinking the same thing so I decided to check the comments
waxore Same.
Nope! Just bloody tight. I had to extend a long Allen wrench with a ring wrench to get mine out. I re torqued mine to 60 ft/lbs and also the mounting screws.
I have the same chuck. I machined my backplate from scratch though, and also got a fantastic fit on my register... only to find that I had run out in the chuck. Then I watched Stefan’s Gotteswinter’s video of him having the same chuck and issues, and did the same as he - made the register slightly undersized, and then knocked it in true before snuggling up the bolts. It’s now dead nuts on as they say.
Did the same thing. Helped to bring it in a bit better.
A trick you can used on stuff like that is fill the gap with loctite or epoxy. After you align the parts the glue sets and makes sure it stays aligned over time. You can spray one side of the joint with graphite to keep the epoxy from sticking permanently.
When you have a chance retest with the indicator touching the 5C taper cavity just to rule out contribution by the collet.
My thoughts exactly, see if it's the collet or the chuck that's got the runout
@@Rx7man Every piece. chuck needs to be tuned from factory. The sellers that within .005 is tolerable. Been there and done that. 55 yrs of it.
Some Hardinge collets have three small holes in the slots that are for truing the bore. You insert precision dowel pins into the holes and tighten the collet before boring to size. Mostly used with “emergency” collets which are softer and intended for odd size stock.
I was going to say to retest the chuck cavity at the rim ID for eccentricity and not at the 5C collet.
Chinese collet holder + Chinese collet + .0005"
Also you ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS blow off/blow out your part before you install it. Any chips/dust can get in between two mating pieces causing run out/ more run out. :)
James, I really like the process you've gone through to determine how the chuck was originally machined. Great stuff...
Yeah, using the ELS to check the thread was absolute genius. Hats off!
Great addition to the shop and even better at that price. I appreciate the large calculator... just like mine.
Great content! Your thoroughness is something for me to aspire to. I’ve been thinking of getting one of these but the cost has always been a consideration.
Wow, much better than anyone could have possibly expected, good work. Based on your video, I bought a D1-5 version this last week, thanks much.
This is the video that introduced me to James, and got me binge watching. I'm ordering the control panel and boost kit today, along with other stuff (new leadscrew, gonna go with ball) for my lathe.
this is my first time watching you, very thorough , super set up and I am very impreessed with the dual clock gauge set up. an excellent and informative video, thanks
Chris
You didn’t put an indicator on the internal 5C taper on the chuck. How do you know if the runout is in the chuck or the collet? Isn’t that kind of important?
Does it matter? At the end of the day you're not holding the job in the taper. So long as the full assembly repeatability produces work within acceptable limits its fine. If you want the next level of precision you would step up to a cylindrical grinder.
@@bobuilt10 it tells you if your runout is in the Chuck or collets. If your chuck is great but the collets are crap you can get new collets. If vice versa you have to address the chuck. The purpose of the video was to show is if the CHUCK was any good. That is the obvious systematic way to do it. You don't evaluate 2 variables at once.
@@sblack48 your last sentence is machinists gold. Everyone needs to print that out and put it on their bench. It's far too easy to consider/tackle two things at once if you're not paying attention.
He obviously does not know how to properly test - yes put it on the outside, inside and then test with multiple collets & rods. You may have a bad chuck and a bad collet - they are mounted in a way that cancels the runout and presto you now have "great chuck". Also check the backplate for runout - there may also be cancelling there going on or adding. He was actually evaluating at least 3 variables at once (I assume his spindle is good and it would be a bit nit picking to check that out) - 1. the back plate, 2 the chuck, 3 the collet. The rod itself may look ground etc. but I seen some damaged - need to check that as well.
If you leave about 2 thow clearance between the backplate and the chuck, you can nip up the retaining screws, tap the chuck to run dead true then fully tighten.. 👍
Zero runout..
This is a good idea, I've seen similar done with added set screws to be able to dial it in like a 4-jaw.
Good idea. Though there was more runout further from the chuck which also suggests that it's axially skewed. Perhaps that could be shimmed out when the backplate is mounted.
@@cooperised I think the rear (cylindrical) journal might also be slightly oversize, otherwise both pinions should give same runout. Maybe a thou or two slop there.
Love the "machining forensics"! Fascinating.
yes !!! forensics as you say !!!!!!!!!!!
Another awsome video...thank you!you make a wonderful job explaining so well...
I'm glad I found you. On the TH-cam channel. I benefited a lot from you. I like the way you comment on the work. I love turning
Thanks for the bold experiment. Nice results too, just like everything you touch. 👍😎👍
As a first time viewer of your channel I’m very impressed. Will be watching out for more of your videos.👍
I recommend you countersink or counterbore the 3 threaded back plate holes. Over time the threads can be stretched which will compromise the alignment. This is common practice when machining cylinder heads for example. Run a DTI inside the collet chuck taper. It is likely the runout is in the cheapo collet.
Worked out well. Great video and great machining. Thank you for sharing.
A good way to heat the bolts up is a soldering iron I’ve done it a few times with not being able to use a torch
Yeah, a solder gun style works great for undoing loctite
I've also found if you get one of those inductive lug nut heaters and modify it slightly you can heat up just the bolt pretty easily. This one's more difficult because these are recessed socket head bolts but you could put a cheap Allen or something into there to act as the heat conductor and use that for the heating. Works pretty well in the field when you need to get out a stubborn fastener or one that's been loctited in.
I use the tip holder of the soldering iron to heat the inside race of bearings. Works great
and be sure you know if the threads are right or left-handed on those screws before you start hitting them with a hammer!
Bought the same 'brand' a couple of months ago myself. D-4 mount, about the same price. Mine works smoothly and runs well. Thanks for the video on yours. I like that indicator for the tool post!
I just took delivery of mine. Now to follow your footsteps. Thanks for the information!
Years and years and years ago I was taking machine shop night classes and I wanted to build one of these similar to this for my model 1922 Logan lathe and I got mine within about 2/10 so your not doing too bad where you're at with a half a tenth.. nice work and an enjoyable video..
Great tips! I watched this before buying and in stalling a new 5C chuck. It turned out perfect Thanks!
The measurement was very interesting. Thank you!
Great video and nice upgrade to your machine. I have the same G0602 only without the VFD upgrades. I bought an ER36 set with a straight 3/4" shank on the collet holder. I usually have
I did same thing, ran the same but had to make my own back plate. It’s amazing!
Great video 👍 I never knew you could indicate on threads, very cool.
Very educational, thanks for making this.
i am a novice .. just learning .. and you are a MAGICIAN !!! wonderful video sir !!!!
Hi James,
Value for money, it looks good... Thanks for sharing.
Take care
Paul,,
I also bought a 5C collet chuck from Bostar on eBay but had integral D1-4 pins. Mine had .002" run out measured on the outside taper. I was able to get the screws out of it and remove the 2 spring pins to provide a little movement between the front and rear halves and with a little fussing got the run out down to .0005" then re-torquing the screws. Thanks for the great videos.
Wandered over from Blondihacks' video. Enjoyed this video, subscribed.
been looking at one of these chucks myself and have talked myself out of buying one up till now. thanks
Probably red loctite on the threads. Maybe an impact screw driver unit with an allen-head socket on it. Couple of wacks with the chuck on a wood block.
Well your plug for this got me to try it. Very pleased with results. Yes literally the least expensive 5C chuck on Ebay with adapter. Plate not that far off, total runout at chuck .0005 and with .5" stock drill rod, 0007
Nice! I've got a "Set-Tru" type collet chuck from PM, works great. Use it a lot. Same collets go into the Spin Indexer and tool grinder. I like being able to clamp directly on threaded parts.
Great idea to set up your lathe for 8 TPI and chase that thread with your DTI! I don't think I would have thought about that. Hopefully, I will remember it. Thank you so much for sharing your great work.
I wasn't sure how well it would work, but the ELS makes it super quick to try.
I bought a cheap ER 40 collet holder for my Sheldon, I used a Litle Machine Shop 1923 backing plate. It runs as true as the spindle to my ability to measure it.
I had a similar experience with a Shop Fox 6" 4 jaw I bought for my old Sheldon lathe. Threaded it on to the spindle, turned down the front face, fixed it to the 4-jaw, it was dead nuts. Even with a spindle that has some runout on the spindle, this method will result in a chuck that runs as true as the rigidity of the machine will allow. For me, that was a few tenths on the OD of the chuck.
I wont ever need a chuck like that, but the fixturing and setup was great! Very educational.
Great vid James.
You earned my sub.
Learned something with the checking the screw by engagement of the threading function or the lathe...I was very impressed.
I was honestly pretty impressed that it worked. :)
Hi James. This is really helpful, I've a set of 5C collets for my single point grinder and have wanted to be able to use them on the lathe as well. BobUK.
Oh, a heart! Thanks James, it means a lot. BobUK.
Nice vid. I’ve been thinking about getting one off those too. I’ve been collecting 5C for use with my other machines
First of all, excellent video. This is without a doubt way better than most machining videos on TH-cam. As an owner of a Hardinge Hlv-h lathe and a former owner of a Clausing lathe I agree that the Hardinge is the better lathe, but with your skills you’ve done quite a bit to close the gap. Also please recheck your work with a quality 5c Collet.
great video production/discussion/build...success
Yea I just finished re-machining my backplate for my C5 spindle nose on my Atlas. Best I could get was 1 thou. I do have cheapo import collets, and to get any better, I would probably have to grind the collet seat, but I can live with the 1 thou runout.
I took some time to get my machine re-leveled before doing any work, and tightened up the bearings just in case, but those were only minor improvements.
I guess the only other suggestion to all of us newbies would be if you want your part to run true, start with an oversized part that you can machine all your features on and the part will end up running true.
It's a real bear turning down the backplates though, they are fussy things. I was doing a lot of metal removal so I had to rough it in and walk away for an hour to let it cool down and shrink, then come back to it and touch the register to fit.
Great job man!
I bought a cheap three jaw chuck from enco about thirty years ago, six inch, two sets of jaws, and it still runs within half a thou on small stuff, under a thou at 3/8ths, and under a thou up to over an inch. I was really expecting you to arrive about where you did, the care you took in setup ensured the best possible outcome. I've had very good experience with "cheap chinese equipment" over the last twenty years, hobby rather than professional machinist. I've just recently bought a set of guage blocks, and they are very nicely made. Thanks for sharing this!
As soon as you started dialing in, I subscribed.
I saw that sticker on your lathe and thought I recognized the logo. Then I looked at your profile picture and definitely recognized it. I bought an itty bitty double extruder for my makerfarm printer that got me interested in making stuff. It was a gateway drug I guess. I definitely just subscribed
Nice add-on to the lathe. I just bought an import spindexer with a full set of 5C collets and was thinking about getting a lathe collet chuck to top off the set. Something to do after I finish my saddle rebuild and cross slide solid QCTP upgrade on my HF 9x20. Thanks for the inspiration
The sounds your lathe made while you were dialing in that part sounded like you had a Foley studio purposely add sound effects to it. It is quite enjoyable.
Great video ! I am in the same situation of wanting to add a 5C collet chuck to my Matthew’s lathe but not wanting to spend $800.00 on a D1~4 mount. Thinking I will give this a try as I have a Hardinge speeder lathe in my shop. Also like Quinn, she is one talented woman. BB
Came from Blondihacks, already subscribed, loved the video! You did a good job making us feel smart by leading us all right to the.... (Spoiler!)
"omg they used a 3 jaw and flipped it end for end!"
I believe I may bought this same chuck for my Grizzly G0709. I had to machine my own back plate, but have been able to get a repeatable less than 0.0005" runout. Been running it for a little over a year now with no issues using an eBay find 5C Collet set. I'm pretty happy with it so far
I like your dial indicator set up on the tool post.
I was thinking the same thing...and I've been trying to find that setup...all I've found is single-indicator holders that one can 3D print. But I really like that slick dual setup for very quick dialing in of the workpiece!! Would love to know where you got it, or if plans are available, James!
That wow'd me too. Sure beats a magnetic base
Stefan Gotteswinter has a 2 part build video about it. I think the design comes from Robin Renzetti.
I bought the same collet holder and found it to be fine for the price point as you did. The one thing I did not like was having to spin the chuck key numerous times to close the collet. Plus I only had a very limited area where my key didn’t hit my lathe head. I have an old Meyer Burger UW1 Astoba 383. Cool history on these machines. Look it up.
So I went to Harbor Freight and bought a cordless screwdriver as a quick way to open and close the collet. I do use the key to tighten it securely. Just though I would share that.
Good videos! Just subscribed and plan on watching many more.
Hi James,
I have a vintage (1949) Myford ML 7 and I bought one of the same type of Chuck. I managed to get mine apart with only a ring wrench on the end of an Allen key. There was some garbage inside but it cleaned up easily. By the way if you take two of the screws that hold it together and put them in the adjacent threaded holes they work like jack screws to seperate the two parts. I did find some sharp edges on the scroll gear and the drive dogs. A small needle file and stone sorted them out.
The Myford has a 1 1/8"*12 nose thread. I made my own backplate out of 1018 cold rolled steel, starting in the four jaw, cutting the register, taper and thread at one setting. I, fortunately, have an old spindle from an SL7 that I could use for a test. Once I was satisfied with the fit the new faceplate was screwed onto the mandrel, faced and the register cut. I made mine 0.005" undersized. I then mounted the chuck and half tightened the screws, inserted a 5C 1/2" collet with a 1/2" endmill inserted. I don't own test pins yet. The run out was about 0.002". I taped the chuck about the three mounting screws until I achieved zero runout. I tightened the screws to about 60ft/lbs and the runout held true. It may differ with other collets but it should do everything I'm likely to ask of it.
My chuck cost less than $100 Canadian so I figured I did ok.
Happy new year. Keep the videos going.
Clock the chuck. You got 2 more options. Also, make the register smaller so you can dial in your work by tapping the chuck to eliminate the runout
A good trick to heating up thread lock without heating things around it too much is to use a soldering iron with a fat tip. Just hold the tip in the hex for a while and it will heat the screw up
Outstanding!👍👍👍👍
I like your dial setup for your tool post :)
I just found your channel and I noticed the
Indicator holder you made, I like that. I have
had a similar tool on the drawing board for a
while, I just haven’t got to it yet. It’s a
two-in-one tool also. H.
As mentioned below, Stefan got his apart... Nice video.
If it's halfway close, you can chuck up and dial in until the register fits, then re-machine the collet chuck register. No big deal to fix a backplate.
Thank you: I need to get one but I have been hesitant.
Great video as always
I bought the same setup from CDCO or was that CME, but with a L-00 back plate. I had to take my Dewalt 20 volt impact wrench with a impact duty hex driver to break loose the socket head cap screws on mine. They are right handed, just made up very tight! After cleaning thoroughly, went back together with some moly-grease. The nose taper on mine was indicated in to within .0002" T.I.R. Installed a good know brand collet in mine and chucked up a test bar about 6" long. At the chuck, about .0005" runout. Out about 4" runout was around .007". Funny thing I discovered, I could deflect the test bar and get all sorts of runout to zero runout. Haven't used it yet but when a need comes up I will give it a try. I would say for any parts 1" or less in length, the collet chuck will probably by all right. I wouldn't expect much more that that in my opinion. Ken
I put one of those cheap import collet chucks on my 1941 Leblond having to machine the back plate from the solid and was impressed with about the same amount of run out..... Not bad at all for the money.. Mine came from Ebay as well.. Cheers; Mike in Louisiana
That 0.0005" run out is the same as the radial clearance to the back plate. It might go away if you remount in a different position, and/or dial in as you mount. Kind of like you did with the 4 jaw.
Please keep up the great videos.
Hi James, great video, as a regular subscriber to Quinn, it was she that directed me here. Great work. Regards a Fan from Aus
Yes I have bought a similar chuck and back plate for my south bend 13" has a 1 7/8 x 8 tpi. Got the unit for around $150 from CDCO machinery. Working out very well. For the price I was pleased. ! 7/8 x 8tpi is hard to find any thing.
Same here 2 years ago on SB 9A. About 1/2 thou runout. Machined the register about 6 thou smaller and final adjusted runout.
Was able to disassemble the chuck to burnish the beveled gears since there was a periodic bind. Now it opens and closes pretty smoothly. The gears were the worst. Chuck body rather nice and accurate. It seems that these chinesium components need the last 10% love to be fairly usable for what I do and for the price I can afford.
Enjoyed the mutual callouts between Blondihacks and Clough42.
I have the same chuck with an integral D-4 mount on my PM 1236 lathe. Seems to run out about 2 tenths TIR - can't complain about that!
I bought a set of collets from Precision Matthews (PM) and most of the ones I've used are good. The 3/4" was so bad it was comical, but I didn't notice until a year in or so. PM replaced it without so much as a quibble, on the strength of a "hey man" email, which is pretty cool.
My lathe is a d1-4 mount. Also purchased a import 5c chuck. After first mount it was out 4-5 thousandths. After some fine tuning I’m about where you are. I’m also impressed with accuracy compared to price.
My mount is the same d1-4 and I got lucky I guess because mine came in at .6 thousands first time mounted for the same inexpensive chuck. Pleasant surprise.
That was excellent, great job, thanks.
That's one good collet chuck! If it had more run out or if you wanted to get it spot on with 0 run out you could still achieve that.
Turn the backplate slightly undersize so that there is some clearance to the chuck register and snug the attaching bolts. Then with a dti on the chuck taper tap it into alignment, tighten the bolts and drill and ream two holes at the rear of the backplate through the collet chuck. Secure with dowel pins, and you'll have a 0 runout chuck.
I've had luck before with a sacrificial allen wrench to heat a screw without unduly heating the surrounding material. get it just starting to turn red with a torch, put it in the head and count 30-45 seconds then pull that out and put in a good wrench to remove the screw. You can do something similar if you have a large capacity soldering iron.
ingenious solution. :)
@@artmckay6704 Thanks!
@@billstrahan4791 :)
A lot of higher end chucks are dialed in at the factory with equal torque on all of the key chuck pinions. Might be worth checking to see how much it runs out when you tighten them both the same amount.
Abom79 also does that with his 6 jaw, having measured the results to see that it does help.
Good job. precision ground tool room stones save the day again.
Smart! Always sneak up on your target! I have seen plenty of scrap metal that should have been a good part because the person tried to hit their target on the first pass.
So as one comment below, put more clearance on the inside register of the faceplate so you can indicate it in concentric (Set-True). your main issue is that a .0005 per inch is a lot of runout as you move outward, I might try rotating the chuck 120° at time to see if that improves and also making sure you stone the chuck register to ensure the through-holes are not swollen setting it off. I think with some fine tuning you can a nice piece. Me I went through 3 of these and they took the returns and refunded me as none were better than .003 out at best out of the box on a D1 head. I then found a deal on a Bison and it's spot on every time.
Good job. The hex screws you could not remove were probably installed with permanent Loctite. 350 Degrees F will break them loose but it’s probably not worth the distortion and trouble to see what’s inside.
I bought one of these several years ago (not sure from the same source) with a D1-4 back plate and the TIR was way off what they specified, like 10X. I asked to return it and they just gave me my money back and said keep it. I took it apart and the gears looked to be sand cast with no cleanup or descaling at all. I took a file and cleaned the gears up and it worked a lot smoother but the TIR was still just as bad. It is now stored away in a box somewhere. I do not recall it being difficult to open but they probably now Loctite the threads so you can't admire the fine workmanship.
As always our "genius" James teaches us yet another gem. Incidentally, I bought one of these along with the back plate. So I took it to a machine shop to fit the plate to the collet holder. Sadly, he did a terrible job.
Now that I saw James, I will make one meself. Thank you kind Sir.
People make fun of us hobbyists, but often we can do better work than a 'real' shop! Do it yourself and you'll know it's right.
Its not uber hard to make a back plate well even D1-3 taper - after mounting and taking it off few times one gets th-cam.com/video/R1KMM6pgZ1A/w-d-xo.html so just over a tenth of a runout in any position. The taper was lapped with sand paper like 10x to get this effect on another lathe - at least half a day worth of work to cut the taper and the sand it to precise dimension.
The BP is supplied "rough machined" so that you mount it to your machine spindle and machine it to fit from there. Getting an outside shop to machine it won't take into account the obvious errors that James highlighted at the beginning and any small differences that your machine might have. A good machinist should have told you this.
Came to your channel via Blondihacks and became an instant subscriber too. Have purchased the Grizzly 0602 Lathe used in good shape but all I got with it was a 3 jaw chuck and I want a 4 jaw and a collet chuck to round out the mix. My skill sets are entry level and I took shop classes 40 years ago, but I am not any where near qualified to attempt what you just did. Made my mouth water😊. Have always done metal fabrication where life is great at plus or minus 1/16". I am really impressed with the array of tools you have set up and was very impressed with the dual dial indicator set up you used on the tool post(did you make or buy this and from where). Anyhow I guess I will need to practice and improve my skill sets to get comfortable enough to try and attempt this task. Any suggestions? Thanks again and really enjoyed your presentation and your videos.
I think you've found the resources you need. Blondihacks has a bunch of basic beginner mill and lathe skill videos. That's where I'd start. The dual dial indicator is something I made. There are videos in my back catalog about the build.
I would love to see you run an indicator on the inside ground surface of the chuck, it would eliminate the collet error.
James, thanks for posting this video! I have the same basic Grizzly lathe, and I know that you can *greatly* improve the stiffness of your compound by simply turning the locking collar at the foot around backwards. You will not be able to see the protractor, but you will be able to take much heavier cuts without chatter problems.
I have since designed and machined a better collar which allows me to see the protractor without any loss in stiffness.
Working on some lathe rigidity improvements is on my list of things to do at some point. My particular example of this lathe has other issues. For example, the right side of the cross-slide dovetail bears on the top of the dovetail instead of the bottom. :)
@@Clough42 you can fix that with a flat file - just draw file the top of the dovetails down a few thou ...
On my lathe the dovetails on top of the saddle were .006" out of parallel end to end. A local machine repair shop was able to reduce that to .001" by truing just one of the surfaces. Best of luck!
@@Clough42 I checked my G0602 lathe today, and the cross slide was riding on top of the dovetails, just like yours. This flaw looks to be baked into the manufacturing process for the lathe. After making some measurements, I draw-filed them down until there was several thou clearance at all times. Subsequent verification with a magic marker showed no rubbing, so I put it all back together and the cross slide is now more stable, especially when it is full extended. I took video, so I'll work on getting that posted ASAP. Thanks for the heads up!
@@5tr41ghtGuy awesome! I'll probably dig into mine at some point. I think mine is only riding on the right, and I suspect the proper bearing surfaces are not level. Some measurements are in order.
@@Clough42 here's the video I made of diagnosing and fixing the problem:
th-cam.com/video/DSyIMNsqprg/w-d-xo.html
Really enjoyed this thanks.😎
Nice job! Super Interesting. Thanks.
What a great video, I am sold, going to order one of these and hope I can get it as close to .0000 as you did......cheers, Paul
Is sanity check a proper machining term? Because I hear Blondihacks use it as well and it makes intuitive sense but sounds informal. Very cool work, from a few minutes in I know you've got a lot to teach so I'm subscribed, planning to absorb your knowledge for when I get a lathe and mill. Thank you.
It's a common term in software development. It refers to a check in the code to make sure the data looks reasonable before continuing with something.
I got so involved watching this that I actually tried to blow out some of the small turnings in the bore.:)
I just got one last week the inside register was a little too small I had to put some sandpaper on a wood dowel and sand it out then I could get the collet in. Same brand Bostar
Turn 0.010" off the backplate register dia and enlarge the attachment holes in the chuck body, and you'll be able to dial-in correct the TIR readings for any collet you have.
They might have thread locker. Apply heat to the screw directly using a soldering iron and use an impact driver to loosen them.
I purchased one of these and I will strongly advise you to dismantle the chuck and thoroughly clean, degrease and grease the chuck before any further use. I noticed a slight gritty feel and when I opened it, it had 1/2 teaspoon of what appeared to be either sand or grinding dust. It would have eventually wrecked the tolerances on the chuck if I continued to use it.
I was able to remove the chuck with a bit of work. The factory used an epoxy like threadlocker on the screws. Applying heat directly on the screw should not cook the grease. The thermal mass will quickly dissipate the heat before the grease ever has a chance to cook. I would use a impact driver using forward and reverse to break the threadlocker shoot a bit of penetrant after applying heat. Worse comes to worse, you can always drill them out at the mill.
Yeah, I'm coming to that conclusion as well.
I have a little butane soldering iron set (Portasol), and the 'torch' head is ideal for stuff like that. Heat the socket for a few seconds to soften up whatever thread locking gunk they used, and pop your impact driver on it.
Good idea. I have a couple of butane micro-torches.
Some time ago I bought a MT4 ER32 collet chuck for my mill, with 9 collets (every 2mm except 14mm) and a wrench, for just $60 including shipping from aliexpress. The runout is quite good - about a thou, but the drawbar thread is crooked and it is quite hard to thread in.