“We’ve got 1 thou and 6 inches” 9:03 I might be Australian but are you sure you read that right 😂 good to know I’m not the only one that knows what they mean but says something out of left field
Brendan Austin - I appreciate the attention to detail and there are many times when what I think came out of my mouth and what actually came out don’t match. However, in this case, I was measuring the variation in size over a length of 6” and the whole bar. Just trying to share the accuracy of this lathe turning over that distance so .001” taper in 6”. Hope that makes more sense. Thanks for the comment.
Great video Bud! That boring bar turned out really nice. I’ve just ordered a new lathe and looking forward to making some chips with it and now a home made boring bar is on the list of tools to make.
John Amber - appreciate the comment. Glad the video gave you a good project idea and congrats on your new lathe! Hours and hours of fun and learning ahead, enjoy.
@@BladesIIB sorry for confusion mate, audio is great quality, I was just making a joke that you talk alot that's all 😆 no disrespect intended of course.
Really nice video for a useful and practical project! I subscribed just yesterday after watching your PM-1440TL setup and some other early videos. It’s clear you’ve progressed in the video/audio departments, so congratulations. As you know, there are some other channels with extremely experienced presenters who have set the bar quite high. Regarding your audio, yes, it does seem like you’re speaking “loud” to be heard. I suspect this is unavoidable with on-cam audio. If you switch to wireless mic (with the attendant $ and technical considerations), you’ll be able to speak in a “normal” voice and still be heard. You’re doing much better with useful cam angles and keeping the viewers in mind. Some random suggestions for your consideration: 1) Try to make sure the action is well visualized. 2) Periodically check that the shot is framed well (so glad the coolant line is banished for now…). 3) Try not to block the view even though you need to see, if you do, consider editing those parts out. 4) While the design as you go approach is fun, consider doing an after-the-fact simple dimensioned drawing (based on the final piece) that you can show in the intro and/or during the build to make your points more clearly. 5) For repetitive operations, consider showing one or two at 1x speed and then use time-lapse to go through the rest. It’s nice to see some real-time action. 6) Don’t worry too much about comments like these, you are doing a great job and are a fresh voice providing useful projects and techniques!
Steve H - Really appreciate you taking the time to provide some thoughtful feedback for me. I am constantly trying to improve and you have given me some ideas I can definitely incorporate. I am thinking about a new camera and will plan for an external mic when I do. Hoping I can keep it sounding decent until then. The design ideas and camera feedback is really helpful. You are correct others have set a high bar. Appreciate the sub!
you should cut a key way in the back end of the bar to hold a 1/2 inch turning tool on the same center line as the boring tool, then you could turn, bore and face with the same tool freeing up another block for other tools you my need
slowpoke2067 - Interesting idea. The trade off would be you would have to turn you quick change holder and if using the tool offsets you would lose that. If not using the tool offsets then would definitely offer some versatility. Thanks!
Zuma Doctor - Sounds great, should work well for that. I bored some on the mill before years ago. Don’t recall ever doing one in the lathe. All the best.
I never got a good finish out of those insert end mills, especially the 1/2" ones that takes a single insert. I guess these are intended for roughing. I like them because you can easily change the insert. What RPM do you run them at? I believe these insert end mills are designed for CNC so really wants a 6000+ RPM speed. Also for a better finish you should be doing a climb cut for finish cuts... CNC always use climb cuts because otherwise end mills will break.
Tyler Fu - Thank you for the comment. The finish with the insert mill was not bad just all the steps moving down so I agree a better roughing than finishing tool. I believe I was running it about 1800 RPM or 295 SFM. On my CNC I climb mill because I have ball screws. With the backlash in most manual mills I typically stick with conventional milling. As always I am sure there are another ways to get it done.
@@BladesIIB I have an old mill, has a horrible backlash (like almost .5mm worth). I still climb cut on finishing stroke though, I don't try to climb cut on roughing passes. I have a 1" (really 25mm) insert end mill that I run at the highest speed it will go (around 3000), and it works fine. But the 1/2" single flute ones machines terribly no matter what I do, I guess those are meant for much higher RPM in a CNC. I end up turning the shank down to 6mm and use them in a router.
@@taiwanluthiers Maybe the single flute just does not have the rigidity it needs. Sometimes harmonics come in and a machine just does not like a tool at a certain RPM. Sounds like you came up with some work around to get the most out of your equipment.
Mike Stevens - Thanks for the comment and the question. I built the light. Pretty easy. Look up Everbright halo light on Amazon and find the size you need. Mine came in a pair for $13. Bought a 12v adapter and some magnets. Could epoxy the magnets to the light or in my case I just used double side sticky tape to secure the magnets. Get as simple or as fancy as you want with the switch. I just put a small toggle switch on the side of the mill where I had some room.
I think they may have gotten in the way of cutting almost half way through the bar? I should invest in a set though. As always, appreciate the input. Thanks.
R Blade - that is a LED ring light. You can buy some already wired. I made this one. Bought the light and the power adapter on Amazon and added a toggle switch. They are typically for automotive use so usually 12V and plenty of sizes available. I just use some good double sided tape and magnets to hold it there.
Bill Divine - I have never owned or used a Kurt vise but I am very happy with this one from Glacern. I have been very impressed with its repeatability and it just feels quality all around. Their prices are reasonable and if you call you get a live person to talk to. I would buy another one without hesitation. Hope that helps.
Justin Sturgeon - Great question. I just use way oil so Mobil DTE Heavy Medium ISO68. Have some in a regular oil can, squirt a little around and use a gloved hand to spread a thin film. I used to live in Indiana as well and would say the humidity in Dallas is even higher. Good luck.
Jody - I am sure a greenfield tap would have gone through even 4140 like butter. This was a packaged tap drill and tap from the local hardware store, sometimes you make due with what is on hand. Any other time always good to buy quality tooling. TGA and for the comment.
Luke Amato - Thanks for the tip. Someone else mentioned that as well. New idea I had not thought of. That is what I love about machining, always more than one way to do things and always more to learn. Appreciate the comment.
Cosimo Sanfilippo - Fair feedback. I don’t use that intro sound anymore and I have worked to clean up the audio quality, speaking etc. This is an older video, I hope you notice the improvements in a newer one.
@@BladesIIB the first few minutes. almost like you're using an auto on microphone and it turns off too quickly. other vids dont have it, watching Tool Height Gauge now and it's fine
@@justaguy4788 appreciate the feedback. I had some other feedback that it seemed like I was yelling, I have tried to manage my projection a little. I think it was clipping out the camera mic. Glad the other video sounds better, I will keep working on it.
Jon Harrington - Thanks and could be your old steel is as good or better than my machines. Some true quality iron built in that era. Keep on running them. 😁
@@BladesIIB for sure my leblonde has tons of torq compared to my grizzly The leblonde can actually handle a 200k cut without slowing down. One day I’ll upgrade to a proper mill.my true business is moving earth the machines are really there for maintance needs.... anyway thank you for the video
“We’ve got 1 thou and 6 inches” 9:03
I might be Australian but are you sure you read that right 😂 good to know I’m not the only one that knows what they mean but says something out of left field
Brendan Austin - I appreciate the attention to detail and there are many times when what I think came out of my mouth and what actually came out don’t match. However, in this case, I was measuring the variation in size over a length of 6” and the whole bar. Just trying to share the accuracy of this lathe turning over that distance so .001” taper in 6”. Hope that makes more sense. Thanks for the comment.
Great video Bud! That boring bar turned out really nice. I’ve just ordered a new lathe and looking forward to making some chips with it and now a home made boring bar is on the list of tools to make.
John Amber - appreciate the comment. Glad the video gave you a good project idea and congrats on your new lathe! Hours and hours of fun and learning ahead, enjoy.
good job..thanks for your time
Nice project
tallyman15 - Thanks!
Great content mate! I bet you can talk underwater hey? 🤣👍
Tristan Hall - Thanks for the comment. I have been working on the audio. Hopefully my more recent videos sound a little better. 😁
@@BladesIIB sorry for confusion mate, audio is great quality, I was just making a joke that you talk alot that's all 😆 no disrespect intended of course.
@@tristanhali8252 LOL, none taken. Fair comment, ha, thanks for the clarification.
Really nice video for a useful and practical project! I subscribed just yesterday after watching your PM-1440TL setup and some other early videos. It’s clear you’ve progressed in the video/audio departments, so congratulations. As you know, there are some other channels with extremely experienced presenters who have set the bar quite high. Regarding your audio, yes, it does seem like you’re speaking “loud” to be heard. I suspect this is unavoidable with on-cam audio. If you switch to wireless mic (with the attendant $ and technical considerations), you’ll be able to speak in a “normal” voice and still be heard. You’re doing much better with useful cam angles and keeping the viewers in mind. Some random suggestions for your consideration:
1) Try to make sure the action is well visualized.
2) Periodically check that the shot is framed well (so glad the coolant line is banished for now…).
3) Try not to block the view even though you need to see, if you do, consider editing those parts out.
4) While the design as you go approach is fun, consider doing an after-the-fact simple dimensioned drawing (based on the final piece) that you can show in the intro and/or during the build to make your points more clearly.
5) For repetitive operations, consider showing one or two at 1x speed and then use time-lapse to go through the rest. It’s nice to see some real-time action.
6) Don’t worry too much about comments like these, you are doing a great job and are a fresh voice providing useful projects and techniques!
Steve H - Really appreciate you taking the time to provide some thoughtful feedback for me. I am constantly trying to improve and you have given me some ideas I can definitely incorporate. I am thinking about a new camera and will plan for an external mic when I do. Hoping I can keep it sounding decent until then. The design ideas and camera feedback is really helpful. You are correct others have set a high bar. Appreciate the sub!
you should cut a key way in the back end of the bar to hold a 1/2 inch turning tool on the same center line as the boring tool, then you could turn, bore and face with the same tool freeing up another block for other tools you my need
slowpoke2067 - Interesting idea. The trade off would be you would have to turn you quick change holder and if using the tool offsets you would lose that. If not using the tool offsets then would definitely offer some versatility. Thanks!
I will do something like this for boring motorcycle cylinder on the lathe
Zuma Doctor - Sounds great, should work well for that. I bored some on the mill before years ago. Don’t recall ever doing one in the lathe. All the best.
Very cool.
Thanks, this was a fun project.
I never got a good finish out of those insert end mills, especially the 1/2" ones that takes a single insert. I guess these are intended for roughing. I like them because you can easily change the insert. What RPM do you run them at? I believe these insert end mills are designed for CNC so really wants a 6000+ RPM speed.
Also for a better finish you should be doing a climb cut for finish cuts... CNC always use climb cuts because otherwise end mills will break.
Tyler Fu - Thank you for the comment. The finish with the insert mill was not bad just all the steps moving down so I agree a better roughing than finishing tool. I believe I was running it about 1800 RPM or 295 SFM. On my CNC I climb mill because I have ball screws. With the backlash in most manual mills I typically stick with conventional milling. As always I am sure there are another ways to get it done.
@@BladesIIB I have an old mill, has a horrible backlash (like almost .5mm worth). I still climb cut on finishing stroke though, I don't try to climb cut on roughing passes. I have a 1" (really 25mm) insert end mill that I run at the highest speed it will go (around 3000), and it works fine. But the 1/2" single flute ones machines terribly no matter what I do, I guess those are meant for much higher RPM in a CNC. I end up turning the shank down to 6mm and use them in a router.
@@taiwanluthiers Maybe the single flute just does not have the rigidity it needs. Sometimes harmonics come in and a machine just does not like a tool at a certain RPM. Sounds like you came up with some work around to get the most out of your equipment.
Nice project,
Where did you find that light for the quill?
Thanks
Mike Stevens - Thanks for the comment and the question. I built the light. Pretty easy. Look up Everbright halo light on Amazon and find the size you need. Mine came in a pair for $13. Bought a 12v adapter and some magnets. Could epoxy the magnets to the light or in my case I just used double side sticky tape to secure the magnets. Get as simple or as fancy as you want with the switch. I just put a small toggle switch on the side of the mill where I had some room.
You need v blocks. Should always have 3 points of contact in the force direction.
I think they may have gotten in the way of cutting almost half way through the bar? I should invest in a set though. As always, appreciate the input. Thanks.
What kind of light is that you have on your mill between the chuck and the tool ? Looks pretty effective.
R Blade - that is a LED ring light. You can buy some already wired. I made this one. Bought the light and the power adapter on Amazon and added a toggle switch. They are typically for automotive use so usually 12V and plenty of sizes available. I just use some good double sided tape and magnets to hold it there.
@@BladesIIB thank you for the prompt reply. Love your series by the way !
@@rblade1808 anytime and thanks!
How do you like that mill vise vs something like a Kurt? Any difference besides price?
Bill Divine - I have never owned or used a Kurt vise but I am very happy with this one from Glacern. I have been very impressed with its repeatability and it just feels quality all around. Their prices are reasonable and if you call you get a live person to talk to. I would buy another one without hesitation. Hope that helps.
You could have loaded an end mill in your lathe and mounted the bar in the tool holder and cut your tooling slot on the lathe.
Agbhar Gihad - Thanks for the comment and the idea. Definitely had not thought of that. Always like a new idea.
What do you use for you so called "Texas Rust Prevention" Need something better here in Indiana with all this humidity.
Justin Sturgeon - Great question. I just use way oil so Mobil DTE Heavy Medium ISO68. Have some in a regular oil can, squirt a little around and use a gloved hand to spread a thin film. I used to live in Indiana as well and would say the humidity in Dallas is even higher. Good luck.
Had really good luck with greenfield(?)....maybe... taps and dies...but 4140 is tough on anything...I get it.
Jody - I am sure a greenfield tap would have gone through even 4140 like butter. This was a packaged tap drill and tap from the local hardware store, sometimes you make due with what is on hand. Any other time always good to buy quality tooling. TGA and for the comment.
I think you took a page out of ABOM's playbook.... that thing is `Uuuuuuge!
Nick Mullins - Thanks, sometimes that is what you need.
@@BladesIIB That's what my ex-wife said too...
You could have fit it on the tool post, put a cutter or end mill in the lathe and just cross fed it
Luke Amato - Thanks for the tip. Someone else mentioned that as well. New idea I had not thought of. That is what I love about machining, always more than one way to do things and always more to learn. Appreciate the comment.
@@BladesIIB for next time anyways
Good work, but.... adjust the sound...............
Cosimo Sanfilippo - Fair feedback. I don’t use that intro sound anymore and I have worked to clean up the audio quality, speaking etc. This is an older video, I hope you notice the improvements in a newer one.
Why is the audio choppy?
Any particular point or section in the video? Just checked and seems to be fine in all the areas I checked? Thanks.
@@BladesIIB the first few minutes. almost like you're using an auto on microphone and it turns off too quickly. other vids dont have it, watching Tool Height Gauge now and it's fine
@@justaguy4788 appreciate the feedback. I had some other feedback that it seemed like I was yelling, I have tried to manage my projection a little. I think it was clipping out the camera mic. Glad the other video sounds better, I will keep working on it.
Nice machinery in kinda jelly I’m running ww2 machinery .
Jon Harrington - Thanks and could be your old steel is as good or better than my machines. Some true quality iron built in that era. Keep on running them. 😁
@@BladesIIB for sure my leblonde has tons of torq compared to my grizzly
The leblonde can actually handle a 200k cut without slowing down. One day I’ll upgrade to a proper mill.my true business is moving earth the machines are really there for maintance needs.... anyway thank you for the video
Hanzhen harmonic drive gear , robot arm gear head, over 30 years experience
I won't subscribe, because as soon as your video started the loud sound of your video...... made me lose my hearing.....!!!!!
Cosimo Sanfilippo - Fair feedback. I have worked to improve this in more recent videos. I hope you can notice the difference.