Ford Vehicles: Frequent Blend Door Actuator Failures and Why?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- You can get the Motorcraft actuators much cheaper than the Ford Dealer here on Amazon-(check fitment guide)
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One bit of advice I can give here is to use the latest Blend Door Actuators from MOTORCRAFT ONLY. Dorman units and others alike are causing more issues than the Ford units and are just not worth the limited savings.
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This explains a lot about my current situation, I purchased a new actuator but couldn't find anything wrong with the one I removed.
Thank you for sharing this video post.
I replaced two of my blend door motors on my 2013 F150 King Ranch about a month ago. One was behind the radio and the other was on the bottom of the heater assembly on the passenger site. About a month later and in the middle of the Colorado Blizzard of 2021, the clicking was back and my blower motor started to make a warbling sound too. I pulled the lower passenger side blend door motor, turned on the truck, put in the fuse and the blend door motor continuously turns clockwise (which is evidently bad for plastic gear teeth and blend door shafts). When I replaced the blend door motors the first time, I did this same test and saw the motor go back and forth and then stop. I got another new blend door motor and it continuously turns clockwise too. As for the blower motor noise, I pulled the blower motor and part of the blend door shaft was in the squirrel cage. Put my hand up where the motor was mounted and the vent door easily moves back and forth, so imagine that is the shaft that broke and ended up in the fan. My question is what controls these motors because my blend door motors are new and I still have the clicking, now with the added feature of breaking blend door shafts.
Me too. 2014 f150 and my actuator above the gas pedal that controls the floor/dash/defrost mode has been replaced 3 times, so I'm convinced whatever controls the actuator is the problem rather than the actuator itself. I'd love some insight here.
I would assume the HVAC module ? I currently lost control for my defrost/ face/feet controls. I replaced the actuator and no dice. I did test to make sure the blend doors themselves moved freely and they did. I’m not sure what I need to do now
I believe my 2015 Fiesta has the larger old style actuator. It’s been clicking periodically for over a year now, and it’s the second unit in the car. The first one I had replaced under warranty by the dealership. The paperwork listed parts and labor for it at $500 at the time!! A few months ago I found I could buy the unit for about $25 and that under dash access to the component is very easy… like a 30 m in minute job.
Other than that thing knocking on the on the back of my glovebox door , my 2009 Taurus is the best car I've ever had . Been flawless .
It's an easy fix .
love your analysis presentation about design failures... it's all about details plus lack of quality and cost savings = perfect ownership chaos!
👍
It would be cool to find aluminum versions of these gears and swap the plastic ones out with those and see how long the blend door actuator lasts (on the older unit)
Those little things you're calling tracking bars are made to regulate voltage needed or not needed in operating the doors direction of closing or opening depending on its place during the cycle.
These fail a lot on the 2003 - 2011 Ford Rangers and the whole dash has to be pull forward just to gain access to the one 8 mm bolt in the back. Ford is really good at making things hard to work on so they can add labor cost.
true
ralph walters you are right on the money. it's the vendors and quality control that's the issue. Then they buy 500,000 of these things and will not change until they deplete stock. The customer is then always wrong and service advisor makes his bonus.
I just pulled one on a 2008 ranger. Yes it's a pain to get to that back one... but I had it out and replaced within an hour without pulling the dash at all
Well it is not only ford. On renault you had to remove refridgerant too
All components are made to fail these days.
Thank you my brother for all the information, I've replaced 2 actuators in my 2012 ford fusion. Now I understand why. God bless you man.
Very detailed and informative video. My actuator failed on my crown vic a while ago. Mechanic says he saw it happen all the time especially on our local police vehicles.
+Mdelta2000 Yeah I have only seen a handful of those fail on the vics must be a police thing
It took me 1 hour to change it and the dealer wanted 500 $ to change it 5 hour labour....Great video. Do it yourself it will save you a lot of money.
Exactly! There are still so many things you can fix on a car yourself. May be a PITA but will save you serious money. TH-cam is great for this.
if they used aluminum or a light alloy for gears they never would have had this problem in the first place in the older style. it seemed like the motor at times had too much torque for using plastic.
Its not really hard to work on. The problem is to get to the damn thing.
Who were you trying to kid only takes an hour to change it? I have seen what you have to do in order to change it as I work on vehicles myself. There is no way to shortcut that process without completely butchering The Underneath of the dash. I don't believe you and you should stop spreading false information such as it takes 1 hour to change it. I challenge you and I would put $1,000 behind it on a wager. Please contact me if you're up to the challenge.
Ford has been having blend door problem for as long as I can remember. I'm starting to think they design them to fail after a while because they're expensive to repair.
My 1999 Ford Fairmont (Ford Australia) one just failed - to be fair it lasted a fair while! But still - not worth the cost to get it fixed. Never had that problem with my 72 or 84 Falcons much simpler designs
Mine lastes 14 years now it's
Additional profit potential for dealerships, can bill 6 hours labor per the book.
@@seorwulf1049 fix it yourself?
@@darkjord5823 sure and I still love my Ford, but that wasn't the point.
This is exactly why I don't fool with the temp setting but twice a year. Once in the summer when I know I don't need anymore heat and in the fall.
I had a blend door break on my 03 F150 Screw and had to pull the dash. Very time consuming
This may be the best advice I’ve seen on the internet today. Unless not using it causes the door to stick and burn out the actuator. Who knows.
@@Morgan-cn5fk i think every time you turn on the automobile it will turn those gears to position itself causing strain every time one turns on the car.
I watched this video for nearly seven minutes hoping this guy would give a solution to the problem like were can the consumer get a quality built product ?
Thxs for the tip 09 flex we have changed it out in 2022 an now just did it again an sure it was the passenger side lower one gesh what a job
Just changed mine the other day, pain in the ass but it’s worth it to not hear that clicking sound anymore.
How did you change it?
@@1969robe used a small socket wrench and bought a set of torx bits, removed the panel from the steering wheel.
@@vcupiano Thanks
Failed on my 2014 explorer sport, luckily I still had about 1k left in my warranty. It was the one that required removing the whole dash from the vehicle to get at it. Big $$$ if I was out of warranty.
This is an industry wide issue. My Acura MDX failed about 4 times. I bought a new one the first time, and simply cleaned the contacts the other times. Good video but why not add a solution? All I do to mine is clean the contacts and add dielectric grease.
Any recommendations for an upgrade or is OEM Motorcraft still going to be the strongest option?
We have two Lincoln Town Cars. A '96 and a '08. They both appear to have blend door actuator issues. It's 2.9 hours to do the job on the '96 according to the book. Pulling the dash is a PITA. I hate to think what it is to get into the 2008 model.
I, too, remember the simple Bowden cable controls on my VW Beetles, as well as a '72 Impala which used the same "technology" to control heat & A/C. Then I remember fixing my wife's '78 Chevette, which had "advanced" to vacuum control... the heat/A/C control panel was a mostly plastic vacuum switch... which failed. Had that car not been basically disposable, I'm sure other vacuum leaks would have caused more hard-to-troubleshoot malfunctions over time. Now we've "advanced" yet again to expensive, but cheap, electronic controls for everything.
I contacted you before on a ac problem on my 2011 4X4 f250 6.7L xl reg.cab long box plain jain truck with the power package.The evaporator core was leaking just like you said so I had it replaced and about a month later my air would blow cold and then it would blow outside temp and sometimes it'll be blowing on high and then the air in the vents would slow down and the air would turn to outside temp and I'll here the blower blowing hard in the box but the air in the vents slow down big time.It'll blow cold but when the air slows down coming out of the vents it turns warm like outside air but in the box under the dash you can hear the blower still blowing high but barely anything coming out of the vents.All functions work when I put it on defrost and when I put it on the floor and when I put it on the floor and vents ,all that works but like I said when I have it on high coming out of the vents and not on rec. or max just on high ac out of the vents it'll turn warmer and the vents slow down but the blower is still blowing on high in the box.This will happen 8 out of ten times.I'll turn the key to the on position but the engine off and I try to hear for any clicking from broken teeth when I turn the controls on the ac and I don't hear any clicking.I even turned the ac off and let it blow on high and it stayed blowing on high,someone told me that's one way to check the evap. core but mine has been replaced.Do you think that actuator that you are talking about in this video could be my problem and if it is where is mine located at? Can you check for a bad servo if its not acting up at the time that you are checking? A guy at a hole in the wall ac shop told me that you can't check a servo while it's not acting up,is that true? Man forgive me for all the stupid questions but I'm tiered of making $500.00 payments on a truck that only has 74,000 miles on it and having all these mind blowing problems.I spent $1200.00 to have that evap. core replaced at that hole in the wall ac shop and I'm suspecting that they might of broke something under my dash that causing because my truck was fine before the replaced that core and now this.The dealer wanted $2000.00 and I just didn't have that kind of money.I wanted the dealership to do it but the money.Anyway take care and keep up the good work on your videos.Your videos help us out a lot,thank you for what you do bud.
Had three of the later versions blow chunks in my '07 Mustang. Clicking and snapping noises enough to drive me insane. Can't replace one on the driver's side...thanks Ford for that impossible to remove bolt location. So, busted it out and manually swing it for upper or lower air needs. Leave it mostly on panel position anyway. They all sheared teeth when they couldn't find home position, apparently.
Common issue on 05 cadillac sts too. The black contact area wears off over time. Then it hunts and that wears it off even worse. Some are accessible, some require you to pull the dash.
If you haven't figured out yet this is to keep the dealers open
can you 3D print a more durable pair of gears for the earlier design ? does the grease mess up the more recent design ? should the fingers be bent outward a little more ? or is the metal too soft ? is there an error code for non-contacting fingers ?
great video, my brother had that issue with his expedition and it was not cheap. you should do one on door actuators. lol I am having a hell of a time diagnosing why one don't work unless I keep pulling it up and down while hitting the unlock button and the front to sometimes work and other times they switch between one working and the other one don't.
My 1962 ford falcon had a cable to control the blend door
I sent you a small video on your IG. I did a heater core swap. Actuator was fine before work was done. Now it don’t want to work correctly. 2010 Ford Crown Vic. Even bought a new actuator. Same issue.
The old lever to wire heater controls were so much better then the new junk they make. Someone always has to break something that aint broken
I had a 1972 Ford/Mercury Capri with plastic headlight and blower switches. The internal springs were too strong for the plastic housing and blew out the back of the switch. We didn’t have super glue then or I would’ve glued it back together.
I have replaced mine so many times I can now do the job in 10 minutes
mike leschber are you in central Texas? Want to do min? Lol
2006 Merc gr marq I have the older model blend door actuator(bda). Winter 2019: Diagnostic test 024,025. Bought new/old model bda $47. 2 screws impossible to get to (bda) thru glove box. Was able to remove old (bda) top, left old base in car. Took 2 old gears, & motor out put in new gears & motor to old base. Still didn't move from hot to cold. Manually set to heat for winter.
5/30/20: unhooked battery to manually set to cold for summer. While there I hooked battery back up, unplugged the electrical on (bda), plugged back in. A/C & heat worked properly for 2 days. yesterday went to store, only heat blowing. Today I did a diagnostic test 025, but A/C & heat is working again. Checked all fuses.
ps The temp control works properly when system is switching from A/C to Heat properly. Once it stops working & I go to manual I get full Hot on heat, full cold on a/c no adjustment on degrees)
Hi. I really appreciate your videos and information. We replaced the drivers side blend door with a brand new one from Ford. It still won't work. Everything came apart and went back together smoothly. Any suggestions would sure be appreciated. Thank you.
It's almost as if the manufacturers designed failure into the part. The difficulty of replacing these items under the dash in the most common Ford, the Mustang is a 10 out of 10. Despite there being only two screws and a wire clip, the no-access problem renders fixing it yourself almost impossible. Ford charges $550 labor to replace one actuator behind the instrument cluster. This is nuts. I want to slap the designer of these systems.
Blend door actuator...wtf....my 94 ranger has one....a manual lever in the dash..... over engineered garbage....
I have a 2006 F150 FX4 with 73,000 miles and manual AC controls. I just had the AC system evacuated and refilled because it wasn't blowing very cold. The technician said I needed to have my radiator fan clutch replaced due to intermittent high pressure during the pressure test. I ordered a Motorcraft fan clutch and replaced it last week. I also decided to go ahead and change the serpentine belt while I had the fan off since it was probably the original belt still on there. Since changing the fan clutch, the air is much cooler and no longer blows warm at idle. This seems to have fixed that issue, but I also have an issue with the Mode Door not working properly. When I move the selector to floor or defrost It rarely changes position, but does sometimes. I'm going to replace the Mode Door actuator to see if this resolves the issue, hoping it's not the old stuck foam issue. I figured while I was at it, I might as well change the Blend Door actuator since these seem to wear out often. I bought each actuator (Motorcraft brand) and got them in today. I have seen a few posts that say a calibration is required for the new actuators, but can't find any info on how it's done and there were no instructions included with the actuators. I called 2 different Ford dealers locally and one said there is no calibration required on my truck and the other said there is a calibration required and to remove a fuse before turning on the key after installing the actuators. He wouldn't specify what fuse or give me the procedure for the calibration. Do both actuators require calibration and if so, would you be able to explain the proper procedure for doing it?
Where are the mode door and recirculate door actuators? I know where the blend door actuator is at but my recirculate door clicks after closing/opening. Thanks
Between these actuators and heater cores, I'm a master dash puller now.
My 2010 Mustang has the newer blend door actuator. At 30k miles it started clicking every time the car was started or I changed the air flow from top vents to floor or defrost. I got a new one from ford for like 20 bucks. It was kind of a pain to change out as I had to go behind the glovebox and it's kind of tight but got it changed. I took the old unit apart and one tooth on the large gear had broken off. I read online that the grease on these will migrate to the bottom of the unit and over time the gears will lose teeth because of a lack of lubricant. I hope none of the other fail. For what I hear one unit requires the dash to come apart to replace it.
Falmmable 281, at 30,000 miles, why'd you not take it back to the dealer? were you past 3 years?
Chris S I bought the car used.
I am very angry with FoMoCo, I had a 95 Mark VIII, I worked for them many yrs. ago. I own a 97 LSC, and cannot begin to tell u how many blend door motors were replaced on the car under factory warranty, and after warranty, along with a heater box. I am ashamed of them as an American car manuf., do foreign cars carry the same set up. I am beginning to think, they make it this way purpousley, to make u get angry enough to buy a new car. I am not buying a new car. Why not design a blend door motor that is much more durable ? I almost swore by Ford, but r beginning to dislike them for this f****n design. Am I right or wrong here?
You are right. It seems Ford is doing this on purpose since this failure is in the 3rd generation.
Never again Ford, NEVER AGAIN!!! 89 Bronco - great vehicle, 94 Explorer - good vehicle, 94 Taurus decent vehicle, 2000 Expedition - Dead in driveway at 90k, 2007 F150 ( bought about same time as Expedition ) dying at 128k.... Never had this much trouble with Chevy or GMC, trucks anyway... Looking to put a small block chev/4 spd into my 49 Willys and bury the Fords, so that no one else will suffer...
@@Garth2011 your right.
Many times I've taken my car in for service only to find broken parts like emergency brake lever plastic cracked off, gear shifter knobs broken, etc ..
No way I'm going to bring my 07 Gt in anymore for anything like pulling my dash apart.
I've replaced many acuators before myself.
I'm done with it all.
To be honest, I don't care about ac or heat anymore.
I'll just buy a portable heater if I need heat.
I'm 100% done with getting jerked off every 2 yrs on replacing junk with junk.
I believe this is the problem on my 2015 mustang. Driver side blows hot when I put it on heat but passenger side stays cool/cold.
Was this the issue on your mustang? I'm having the same problem with mine and i'm about to replace it myself if this is most likely the issue.
Getting ready to replace the one on my Grand Marquis. Oh Ford, you just can't seem to make decent electronics.
you mean oh ford stop getting parts from china or mexico.. i guess if i was getting paid a few bucks a day i wouldent care either.
I had a 2012 Mustang GT. At 7,000 miles I started to get that clicking sound on startup.
I have a 2007 Ford Fiesta that is blowing cold air and hot air at the same time. Would replacing this part fix my problem??!
You cry baby that worried about blend door motor heater Motors for many years Ford GM Chrysler Europeans in Japanese I've been using electric blender motors for years they all we're out it's a lot better than the old cable days they even broke
Surprisingly I just had one fail on me and it wasn't the actual small gears. It was the main cheese wedge -shaped part with the plastic teeth and not the actual round gears where a piece broke off seemed rather odd to me.
Replaced one two years ago and that's about all it lasted.
I have been working on a newer design with someone from a machine shop and they are working on fabricating me metal gears to replace what's inside. So I am going to take a new actuator, open it up and install the metal gears then I should not have a problem after that.
Hey, I’m having a real issue with my 2012 F150 and I’m not sure where to go. Truck won’t go to defrost but the motor is working correct and I can manually move the doors and they seem solid
inside the heater box where the blend door is (full hot)it greats a suction that keeps the blend door sealed for heat i had a really hard time moving the blend door by hand no wander the actuator burns out (solution put the selector (dial on the right) on off wow no more suction the door moved real easy)
My '95 Grand Marquis has a bad blend door. I have to close the vents if I want to use the 'floor' function so it comes out the floor only. Although not a real inconvenience for me, I did just out of curiosity see how much a blend door would be to replace. Well, not only do they have to drain the coolant which I found surprising, it would cost around $1000. Unbelievable. I would also think tearing out the dash on a 22 year old car would also not be the best idea.
I have a Toyota Corolla & it looks EXACTLY the same. I scanned the ends of the earth for a "cheaper" replacement. & Pretty much forced to go to the dealer for 200+-$
Surprised they didn't put these inside the engine block or somewhere easier to get to.
Can this unit be repaired? It seems some cleaning and lube might get you down the road?
I'm not mechanically inclined so my question might be dumb. I had been having problems with the HVAC in my 1999 Ford F150. The problem was that it would not switch modes from Air conditioning to heat and vice versa. My mechanic diagnosed that it was due to a malfunctioning blend door. He replaced the blend door and the motor. This fixed the problem but quite a while later, when I needed to switch to the heat, I got nothing but cold air.
My next-door neighbor found a solution which was to remove two fuses, turn on the ignition, rotate the temperature control dial, then turn the ignition off, re-insert the fuses. My understanding is that this re-calibrated the actuator. I now get heat.
I'm wondering how this fault could re-occur after my mechanic replaced the blend-door and the motor. Is the actuator part of the motor or is it separate?
My Honda Fit allows me to adjust a set of louvers on each heat vent by using my thumb against a plastic knurl. Simple, effective and no electrical parts. Complexity increases the likelihood of failure.
I have 2014 ford flex Sel 3.5L 2wd and has MyFordTouch Sync for GPS, Entertainment/radio and Climate controls. My problem is that i have no air coming in the front vents when i turn on fan for ac or heat and it redirected to defrost and floor vents. I know it has 3 blendor actuators and their locations but i dont know which one for the front air vents. Its a wifes car and its getting pretty warm in sacramento
I may have use a choke cable to make it work, I'm sure it'll work, after all thats what all cars came out back then.
I have a question I just replaced one of these and the heat still continues to come out of the passenger side only what else could it be? They just replaced and "reprogrammed" the HVAC module could it have something to do with the HVAC module?
Any advice on how to change one on a 2014 Ford Focus SE? I can see the blend door but cannot access it to remove the defective one.
Hello i have a 2005 monterey mercury, and i still have problems with the a/c actuastors in the rear section, and all this happened since one day the vehicle for some weird reason ended up with a dead battery a start jumped it to start the engine, and ever since everytime i turn the a/c on for cold air , blow hot in the rear and cold in the front, so i replaced the blend door actuator and i saw that problem you just mentioned it kind of loses track where it is of course i didn’t know at the time, and i ended up replacing the actuator but the problem never solved, and i decided to leave on cold at all times by removing the actuator and leaving the door vent set for cold only, now the front section it started to blow hot air on the passenger side and cold on the driver side, after i jumped start my friends cars with my vehicle, question is am I missing something ???
Thanks in advance for your response
Are these on older crown vics/marquis? I'm having issues with hot/cold and hear a clicking\snapping sound in the dash
Yep!
Hey FordetechMakuloco do these work on a variable resistance? I was just wondering about testing the actual signal thats coming to the actuator.
Are parts available to fix these or do you simply buy a new one?
Thanks for the detailed explanation
Hey Brian, what actuators do you recommend to replace the original broken ones with? Are all the actuators for the FX4 dual climate zone the same and how many are there in total? It looks like I’m going deep into this on my 2013 F150 dual zone climate control. I might as well replace them all since I’ll have the truck torn apart. Thanks for the info.
Brian, when this failure occurs, will it throw a B-code DTC? Thanks!
Seriously? Good Lord, Ford. You make a multi thousand dollar car depend on little cheap, weak plastic parts? Sigh.
Ford has to recall for all door actuator problems,dom lights problems and interface problem which saperarates different circuits.
I just replaced our blend door actuator on my parents 1998 Lincoln Navigator. New heater core & updated blend door & new actuator. Now the actuator stays clicking. I figured they’re electronic and the system should have reset them. Any ideas? Is there a reset? The truck was sitting for years in our garage but it was always being ran an every few months until the battery took a crap. Then it sat for months. There has to be a trick to removing that pesky blend door actuator without removing the dash… I’ve done this twice and I’m not doing it a 3rd time. I’m cutting out a section of the vent duct if I have to for that extra 1” of clearance
Planned obsolescence
Goes 2 ways
Either you are going to pay to replace parts and keep your car on the road
Or you are going to trade it off for another new /newer vehicle
Hey man thanks for the video. I have a 2017 f150 king ranch and have had it in the shop twice now with them not being able to fix mine making a funky noise on the initial cycle. They told me there was a TSB issued for it and they supposedly "lubed" them the first time. Still not fixed. How many are there?
Brian Viola have them change the actuator, cam follower and cam driver.
Could those contact fingers be bent downward more to ensure pressure is kept on them? Seems like they would be floating to lose contact.
I have a 08 ford f250. The heat has been intermittent for over 5 years now. Would this be a possibility for the reason it doesnt work?
Just did one on a 2012, took an hour.
Which one did you change out in an hour
Greetings gentlemen. I have a 2000 sable would you know where the exact location of the blend door actuator is my heater blows steady. I don't think the heat is being directed to the vents.
Nice comparison
You seem super knowledgeable in ford. I have a 2010 f150 xl. It is killing the battery after less than a day parked. I have ran a multi meter over each fuse. It draws less than my brother's 2001 when parked and off. The truck shifts into gear without pressing the brake. Could a parking sensor module be drawing the power throughout the night? How do I find it and change it? Discovered this was broken when my 4 year old put it in hear amd backed ot over the mailbox.
Good old fashioned cable to lever was replaced by new fangled, high faluent electrical devices destined to fail. Why??? I gotta come up with some way of bypass the crappy module to get air back through the vents on my '07 lincoln. Not removing no dash.
2020 Ford Ranger. Mine went out at 20,000 miles.
The new Bronco will probably have these. broncos won't be able to keep the passengers warm! Will the old broncos like mine, a 1996 all the heater controls in blend doors have work for over 400,000 mi.
Mine just went again in my 2010 Taurus ugh
Confused..what if like in my situation I have either full hot or full cold but nothing in between? 2013 F150 xlt
if you take it apart and clean the contacts, would it fix the problem even for a while?
Great info, my 2014 flex has ac to the rear ok but not thru the dash, any suggestions?
I have a problem with a2009 f150 manual ac vehicle came in with AC blowing warm air from defroster duct. replaced mode door motor and blend door motor . Now can get different modes but blend door does not move off of hot. AC compressor and that part of system is cold. Only thing i can come up with is control panel temp control is bad .Have yyou ever come across this?
Why doesn't someone start a class action lawsuit against them?
I had this problem and Ford wanted $1600 to fix it!!!!!! So, I took it somewhere else. By the time they got the truck, the blend door started working again. Must have just stuck?
Would this probably be same problem with a 2010 Lincoln MKT? Worked great yesterday - today have super hot air on Drs side and super cold on passenger - of course 90% is Driver only and could not be the opposite
I have a problem with a 2005 freestyle my AC is cold on the driver side but not on the passenger side trying to determine which motor I need to change I looked in the glove box and I didn't see one up there on the left am I not looking correctly if you could help me out I sure would greatly appreciate it cuz I just bought this car
Mine just started knocking at 117000 miles 09 screw 4.6. Can't wait to fix it so it doesn't knock at start up. Thanks for all your videos that have saved me money. How's that new Eco diesel treating you?
+Justin Miller No problems it has been great so far.
My sons 2014 ford fusion has this problem and the warranty does not cover and they want 3 grand to fix it . Hiw hard is to fix?
I can fix the problem... Eliminate the baffle door altogether. All it does it does is suck in exhaust from the cars in front of you... Instead, they need to rely on "Forced air HEPA" to create a positively vented cabin. No more baffle doors and their "inject the exhaust from the cars in front of me mode"...
my heater stopped working or puts out very little heat . my AC works great how ever in the summer i had a day where the ac was not putting out cold air but the compressor was ingaged and i was getting heat instead of ac now its cold out and i am getting ac but no heat is the device my problem
great vid>>> Iget hot airalso cold ! my problrm with my expedition2005 is i cant direct the air flow. It only blows in one direction and thats the windshield>> hope you can shine some light on this issue forme !! thanks
I liked the old cable system even the vacuum set up was better than this its all about cutting costs to maximise profit now
Mine is a 2016 and i bought it new off the lot with 7 miles on it. I'm on my 5th one and it just failed. They don't even last 6 months.
I have the old style with broken teeth. Can't i just but a new cog teeth set? Rather than replace the whole unit.
I've fixed many a potentiometer by spritzing it with control cleaner. Why wouldn't that work?
It's not ONLY ford that has these fail. I've seen it on other vehicles.
Of course but this is a Ford only channel.
Would this unit prevent heating and air-conditioning from blowing out the vent in a 2010 Ford flex
I have had to replace mine #5 times in the past 1 1/2 years !!! Can anyone help .... the dealership does have any answers. They say Ford is telling them to keep replacing it !!!
not just ford
done the same repair on an impala and its the same actuator pretty much
My impala also....
We put in new actuator, but I’m only getting heat. No air, well the ac comes out warm. How do I adjust the temperature?
Mine failed on my 2008 mustang, 2014 mustang still good, prob new style.
This Happens with VW & Porsche also 😳 My Cayman from new was pushing Cold air from left vents & Hot air from right vents. Had to remove whole dash under warranty to replace this $30 Door Blend Actuator. To much cheap plastic KRRAP on cars nowadays 👎