I used an oscillating tool and it worked great. I also took out more to give more room to work. Just pry the old one out with a screwdriver. Thanks for the video! Took me about an hour.
This video helped me replace mine, thank you. It was a lot easier than I thought it was going to be. I removed the glovebox for better access to the motor/rear bolt. I assumed I had the right part but when I plugged it in and checked it, the motor would swing 180deg, while the door was only limited to 90deg. (Tip I learned from watching your video: I noticed you used the gear from the old actuator and used it to manually turn the door). If you do not use OEM parts, make sure you double check your part numbers and compatibility or check the actuator before installation by plugging it in while disassembled and manipulating the temperature controls. The amount the motor turns should not exceed the limits of your blend door, or else you'll strip the gears.
I have looked at at least a dozen videos and nobody shows me how to get the panel off in order to get to the actuator on the driver side. I really don’t want to break the panel so this would be very useful information. You guys always start the video after the panel has been removed.
TIP: I just did this on my 2011 f150. I just bought a extra 8mm socket for $2 at local auto store. Ground over half of it away and accessed the back bolt from the front with small ratchet. Easy Peazy lemon squizy.
If I could add one thing that's pretty important: you would be wise to disconnect the negative battery cable and depress the brake pedal before doing anything with any kind of airbag, in any vehicle. 99 out of 100 goes off without a hitch, but the one time it goes wrong can be catastrophic. Thanks for the video.
I left that back screw out to and now, 6 months later I have to replace it because of the torque on it won't keep it seated and stripped the gear again. Do it right the first time and fight it back in. Thanks for showing taking the air bag out to get a lot more room to work
I changed that motor about 5 years ago in my 2009 f150. Also left out the back screw. Proof that you only need the one screw. Unfortunately i am only getting hot air now with AC running. Must need to do this again. But only had to remove radio panel and glive box. Not vent panels and air bag.
Hi.thanks for helping me rebuild the motor in my system artic cat 650 prowler,wouldn't be able to have done it without you.I have a ford 2012 f-150 ,that makes a clicking sound under the dash heat stay on vent only, some say it could be a price of foam naming the door to the vent. Help please 🙏
I remember the 70s model ford trucks I used to own. All of the climate controls were controlled by cable. And slide switches. And everything was easy to get to.
I have the same problem. After l connect the new actuator, notice that the motor turns only one way. Can you please tell me if that the way suppose to be? Cuze the door vent inside the chamber move half a turn. I guess that's the way open and close. But the motor keeps turning clockwise. Thanks.
what do you think my issue could be i don't have the same make and model but i have a 2005 ford Taurus. i have no heat, only cold even on the heat setting, wasn't Thermostat (replaced it), and the inner/outer heater core hoses are both hot as heck. suspecting it was the blend door actuator it because it wasn't turning. i bench tested the unit by connecting +12 and -12 to the unit to see if it move and it does, opened it and seen no busted motor or plastic gears. but it doesn't work when plugged in by the wire harness on the car. i have a manual selection heating system (knob) to me i think it a petentiameter on the heat/ac selector that has failed that isn't sending the signal and maybe a stuck blend door too??
I have replaced mine. Original had loud tic... and only heat ... now it's a faint tic and only heat. What did I d o wrong? Help its hot! I saved 2½yrs paid cash for my truck. No air for 2½yrs n I have trouble please someone help !😢😢
Im sure you are not going to see this, but did it make a clicking noise when you started up the truck? and i have a/c on the passenger side but not the driver side??
If the actuator failed in the hot position, and the replacement is in neutral, how and which part do you align to insert the sprocket on the new actuator? Neither seems to turn at all and I don't want to have to take apart the new actuator.
So after you replace actuator how do you properly calibrate the new one? Or perhaps how do you do a re-election calibration if needed if door is not showing completely which is problem in having. My windshield fogs up terribly on the outside lower third portion of the windshield with AC on?
I did this repair yesterday and now have cold air after 4 years of putting off having it repaired at the shop. Now however, it will not transition back to heat when the temp is turned up
is that the relay under the right headlight.. i removed the headlight and used a hole saw and there she was,, good ol duck tape covered that hole...and all was good. thanks to a utube video
hi guys, i replace the top and center button door blends, but now i have cold on driver side and hot on passenger side there is a reset step todo? please help thanks .
After putting everything back together I now have heat, BUT, my fan now only runs at two speeds which are off and full speed. The middle two stops on the dial no longer do anything. Any ideas?
I have heat on passenger side no matter what, with no ticking, dual climate control, 2010. Is that a blend door motor issue too? Last year it was stuck cold...which was actually better.
Jerry, Was the auctuator making any noise? I have a 13 f150eb 3.5, and my heat is cold. No matter what, the tempature is cold..or cool. The tuck temp is fine. When I turn the ac on, that gets colder but no heat. I didn't hear any noise coming from the actuator but I am reading that it will make a clicking noise if bad? . I have yet to dig into the console. Hope you can shed some light. Thanks
Where is my problem if I've got hot and cold, but the issue is switching my source? I.E. Defrost, floor vents, dash vents. If my AC is off altogether, I still get a draft blowing through the vents when I'm at speed.
I've heard from other guys that it could also be the metal contacts that are below the gears that give it trouble, not usually the gears themselves, especially when they are super beefy. So it may look good, but the contact isn't working properly.
On mine I replaced it and still the same it wont switch to hot or cold blend door is not stuck fuses look good what else could it be need the help what else could it be ?
Thanks for the video. Any recommendations??? I have replaced this 3 times on my 2011 f150 and have finally found that the hole that the actuator goes into has been gnarled so it will not grab to turn. It then skips and starts clicking, eventually breaking the actuator. Any advise on what I can do? I was thinking about using a small file and trying to make the "teeth" inside the hole deeper so they are not rounded off. Thanks for any help.
@@aaronbarker6272 90s explorers had this problem. The blend door itself would break at the top. There were aftermarket parts. There were lots of hacks to fix it if you didn't want to remove the plenum box. I think I fixed mine by taking off the blower section under the hood.
I’m having this issue with my 2015 lariat, but I can’t find any information on the location of the actuator. I have the dash off and glove box out. Still can’t find it
Best advice I can give anyone I did mine today after swearing alot. Take the easy screw out then stick a screwdriver uber the actuator pry it up and snap the other screw. Put the new one in and just tighten the one and leave the other it's not going to move
Its behind the glove box . The one screw is a mother fucker to get to . Lol sorry i missed your live stream tonight. I signed in right at the end. Lol. Take care my friend.
I used an oscillating tool and it worked great. I also took out more to give more room to work. Just pry the old one out with a screwdriver. Thanks for the video! Took me about an hour.
You mentioned in the beginning about possibly putting a hole saw to it. Where would you saw to gain access?
This video helped me replace mine, thank you. It was a lot easier than I thought it was going to be. I removed the glovebox for better access to the motor/rear bolt.
I assumed I had the right part but when I plugged it in and checked it, the motor would swing 180deg, while the door was only limited to 90deg. (Tip I learned from watching your video: I noticed you used the gear from the old actuator and used it to manually turn the door). If you do not use OEM parts, make sure you double check your part numbers and compatibility or check the actuator before installation by plugging it in while disassembled and manipulating the temperature controls. The amount the motor turns should not exceed the limits of your blend door, or else you'll strip the gears.
I have looked at at least a dozen videos and nobody shows me how to get the panel off in order to get to the actuator on the driver side. I really don’t want to break the panel so this would be very useful information. You guys always start the video after the panel has been removed.
TIP: I just did this on my 2011 f150. I just bought a extra 8mm socket for $2 at local auto store. Ground over half of it away and accessed the back bolt from the front with small ratchet. Easy Peazy lemon squizy.
Fuck that bolt
If I could add one thing that's pretty important: you would be wise to disconnect the negative battery cable and depress the brake pedal before doing anything with any kind of airbag, in any vehicle. 99 out of 100 goes off without a hitch, but the one time it goes wrong can be catastrophic. Thanks for the video.
I left that back screw out to and now, 6 months later I have to replace it because of the torque on it won't keep it seated and stripped the gear again. Do it right the first time and fight it back in. Thanks for showing taking the air bag out to get a lot more room to work
Sounds like there maybe other issues with the door
I changed that motor about 5 years ago in my 2009 f150. Also left out the back screw. Proof that you only need the one screw. Unfortunately i am only getting hot air now with AC running. Must need to do this again. But only had to remove radio panel and glive box. Not vent panels and air bag.
Is there any way to LUBE the blend door? Mine is kind of sticky. Thanks so much for the video!!
Hi.thanks for helping me rebuild the motor in my system artic cat 650 prowler,wouldn't be able to have done it without you.I have a ford 2012 f-150 ,that makes a clicking sound under the dash heat stay on vent only, some say it could be a price of foam naming the door to the vent. Help please 🙏
Great video guys. I was able to replace my blend door easy peasy, because of this video!! Took less than an hour.
I hope you unplugged your battery first unlike these bozos. Those airbags are so dangerous. Very unprofessional
Have you take the seat out and put the blend door back without it, cuz I have the female seat stay in when I took the blend door out ?
That one you change is the door that goes from hot to cold right
My truck was only blowing cold air a year ago so I replaced the actuator.since then it only blows hot air. What would cause that?
I remember the 70s model ford trucks I used to own. All of the climate controls were controlled by cable. And slide switches. And everything was easy to get to.
I wish things were like that still.
I have the same problem. After l connect the new actuator, notice that the motor turns only one way. Can you please tell me if that the way suppose to be? Cuze the door vent inside the chamber move half a turn. I guess that's the way open and close. But the motor keeps turning clockwise. Thanks.
what do you think my issue could be i don't have the same make and model but i have a 2005 ford Taurus. i have no heat, only cold even on the heat setting, wasn't Thermostat (replaced it), and the inner/outer heater core hoses are both hot as heck. suspecting it was the blend door actuator it because it wasn't turning. i bench tested the unit by connecting +12 and -12 to the unit to see if it move and it does, opened it and seen no busted motor or plastic gears. but it doesn't work when plugged in by the wire harness on the car. i have a manual selection heating system (knob) to me i think it a petentiameter on the heat/ac selector that has failed that isn't sending the signal and maybe a stuck blend door too??
Good video.....thanks.....i dont think i can do all that work but do you know how much will shop charge to do that job??????
It’s not hard to do only appears that way.
I have replaced mine. Original had loud tic... and only heat ... now it's a faint tic and only heat. What did I d o wrong? Help its hot! I saved 2½yrs paid cash for my truck. No air for 2½yrs n I have trouble please someone help !😢😢
Im sure you are not going to see this, but did it make a clicking noise when you started up the truck? and i have a/c on the passenger side but not the driver side??
no idea wasn't my truck, pretty sure he just said it got stuck on hot. wasn't even making a attempt to move when we changed it out
If the actuator failed in the hot position, and the replacement is in neutral, how and which part do you align to insert the sprocket on the new actuator? Neither seems to turn at all and I don't want to have to take apart the new actuator.
So after you replace actuator how do you properly calibrate the new one? Or perhaps how do you do a re-election calibration if needed if door is not showing completely which is problem in having. My windshield fogs up terribly on the outside lower third portion of the windshield with AC on?
I did this repair yesterday and now have cold air after 4 years of putting off having it repaired at the shop. Now however, it will not transition back to heat when the temp is turned up
I have a similar problem I went from only cold to only hot air now. Did you find a solution?
I have a 2011 focus blowing cold from one side and warm from the other any advice or thought on what could be the problem
Hi John, I am getting issue now, anything you did to solve the issue?
Did you ever figure out the problem?
I have no hot air will this get it fixed
no idea you need to troubleshoot why you don't have hot air
Im stuck on cold I have no heater now that we are approaching the winter. This would more then likely be the issue then?
I’ve don’t stuff like this…and ended up with some extra screws left over!
How long it took for you to fix blend door?
Great job guys !!! Looks like just as much fun as replacing the blower relay on the Jeep TJ's . They are a pain in the ass !!! Take care brother .
I couldn’t even tell you where the blower relay or resister is lol
is that the relay under the right headlight.. i removed the headlight and used a hole saw and there she was,, good ol duck tape covered that hole...and all was good. thanks to a utube video
how did you pull out the airbag without setting it off?
Why would the air bag set off ?
@@TestDontguess i dont know.
hi guys, i replace the top and center button door blends, but now i have cold on driver side and hot on passenger side there is a reset step todo? please help thanks .
After putting everything back together I now have heat, BUT, my fan now only runs at two speeds which are off and full speed. The middle two stops on the dial no longer do anything. Any ideas?
Sounds like a relay
@@will123345 yeah it was the relay thanks. Any idea why I only had cold air before changing the actuator and only have hot air since changing it?
You took more out then you needed to
Exactly what i needed to see, my favorite canadian mech thanks bud. Beer time.
I usually have spare parts after pulling a dash apart as well.
I just replaced that exact motor on my truck last night. What a pain in the ass to fix that. I did same thing only put the front bolt in to hold it.
I got the back bolt out and back in with a swivel socket wrench took awhile but I got it
Ah yes a swivel socket would be ideal for sure, as it’s too tight to get a wrench on it
What size socket for the two screws that hold the actuator in?
@@jonmiller9276 8mm for the actuator.
I have heat on passenger side no matter what, with no ticking, dual climate control, 2010. Is that a blend door motor issue too? Last year it was stuck cold...which was actually better.
I have 2013 FX4 dual zone and passenger side is always hot. Couldn't figure it out.
I will see if this video tutorial works for me.
Jerry,
Was the auctuator making any noise?
I have a 13 f150eb 3.5, and my heat is cold. No matter what, the tempature is cold..or cool.
The tuck temp is fine.
When I turn the ac on, that gets colder but no heat.
I didn't hear any noise coming from the actuator but I am reading that it will make a clicking noise if bad?
.
I have yet to dig into the console.
Hope you can shed some light. Thanks
I didn’t have any noise at all
It’s a motor that wears out .does not mean it will make noise.big trucks have same problems
Where is my problem if I've got hot and cold, but the issue is switching my source? I.E. Defrost, floor vents, dash vents. If my AC is off altogether, I still get a draft blowing through the vents when I'm at speed.
I have this problem right now in my 2014 Fx4 f 150 no air blowing out at all, ever figure out what it was?
@pinpeobi Did you guys figure this out? i'm experiencing the same thing with a 2011 FX4.
I've heard from other guys that it could also be the metal contacts that are below the gears that give it trouble, not usually the gears themselves, especially when they are super beefy. So it may look good, but the contact isn't working properly.
Correct
On mine I replaced it and still the same it wont switch to hot or cold blend door is not stuck fuses look good what else could it be need the help what else could it be ?
Arturo Ramirez I have the same problem only on passenger side
@@DavidGonzalez-wc4dq any luck on figuring out the problem?
Thanks for the video. Any recommendations??? I have replaced this 3
times on my 2011 f150 and have finally found that the hole that the
actuator goes into has been gnarled so it will not grab to turn. It
then skips and starts clicking, eventually breaking the actuator. Any
advise on what I can do? I was thinking about using a small file and
trying to make the "teeth" inside the hole deeper so they are not
rounded off. Thanks for any help.
That’s not going to solve anything you need to dig deeper and find the root cause
@@TestDontguess What I was afraid of. Thanks for the reply.
@@aaronbarker6272 90s explorers had this problem. The blend door itself would break at the top. There were aftermarket parts. There were lots of hacks to fix it if you didn't want to remove the plenum box. I think I fixed mine by taking off the blower section under the hood.
I’m having this issue with my 2015 lariat, but I can’t find any information on the location of the actuator. I have the dash off and glove box out. Still can’t find it
@@MrFredsDIY yea I had to take it to the dealership for them to fix the blend door actuators
@@Gruntlyfe0311 what or where was it located at on side or which blend door was it
gearwrenches work great on those screws on the motor.
Jerry, what year was that Ford 150?
2010
thanks
great video,thank you
Wow over kill. And why brake the acuator!! 🤯
Best advice I can give anyone I did mine today after swearing alot. Take the easy screw out then stick a screwdriver uber the actuator pry it up and snap the other screw. Put the new one in and just tighten the one and leave the other it's not going to move
The struggle is real
@@TestDontguess lol absolutely
Bien explicado
Yay, extra parts!
Took off way more than you need to
That's a good video
Nice truck to demo on
You can fix what ever you want on the truck lol
Didn't know you have 2 channels
And now you know, all DIY videos are now posted here
Dont need too remove their bag people
Its behind the glove box . The one screw is a mother fucker to get to . Lol sorry i missed your live stream tonight. I signed in right at the end. Lol. Take care my friend.
Every year with this shit , ford still doing the samething