This stranded me at work but I have AAA and they towed me home. Now, because of this awesome video, I am ready to perform my own surgery. Thanks for the clear and to the point tutorial !!!
Exactly my issue. Was intermittent truck just would crank but not start. Turns out the fuse was burnt and not visibly separated in the center, the side melted. This is a safety issue should be a recall. This video is great. Thank you for putting this together for the masses!
Brooo! I was just thinking this! The tone, confidence, and inflection is on point, and the slight variance from standard annunciation makes it perfect.
This just bit me this morning, fuse blown in my 2009. Just getting ready to call a tow and decided to check the internet first. New fuse, truck started and ordering the kit today. Thank you for the clear and concise video!
Excellent video, unfortunately, my truck suddenly quit running while I was parking at my Dr's office, and I was stranded, so ended up having to get towed to a mechanical shop. They recognized te problem right off and got the repair done by noon the following day, but between the tow, repair. and a rent car I spent close to $500. If it had happened in my driveway at home I could have done this repair myself. Thanks for posting!
@backyard Chevy thank you so much bro you just saved my life. Truck suddenly threw battery code, died, then low oil pressure while driving. I was thinking my motor gave out and you just got me up and running in like 5 minutes. If you’re ever in Saint Louis I owe you a beer!
You just saved me buckets of $$$$$$; thanks a million! 👍🏻 my fuse was charred; put in another, and started right up! Will be ordering and installing the relocation kit. I'm impressed with your very precise and thorough instructions on replacing. You now have a new subscriber!
My truck "supposedly had it done" but the guy who did it fused the wrong circuit. I think the blower motor 🤣🤣🤣🤣. There is a similar wire. I am still running the fuel pump off the little fuse (have to do it right one day)
This just happened to me. Left me stranded at work. Wish I had seen this before letting a $0.10 fuse cost me a $90 tow bill ( I live less than a mile from work) Great video !! I just ordered 2 kits. One for my 2012 FX4 Coyote and one for my dads 2013 Limited 3.7 Eco. Thanks for posting.
Fantastic video with clear instructions. I, like the rest of those watching this video, were able to save a trip to the dealer and few hundred dollars. Thanks for sharing.
I had this very issue today. Call my Bro inlaw and my friends at Penske. Consensus was to get the manual out and check the relay fuse #8 so I swapped it with the rear window defroster so I switch and still no fuel. Finally I decided to look at the fuse chart and found #27 to be the Fuse for the Fuse Relay. Man the 20 A fuse looked just like the one in this video. I am 40 miles from home so I find the mirror defroster fuse 15A and Insert it. Engine fired right up. Take Note. the 15 amp fuse will be easier to blow than a 20 Amp but it gots me to a parts store and I installed a new 20A Fuse.
Yea definitely worth doing in an emergency situation..u just wanna avoid using a higher amp fuse since u want the fuse to blow before the components in the system.
@@backyardchevy328 Man yeah. I was thinking. if this 15 blows I may be totally boned. And the root cause of this is the fuse holder itself? I will likely replace the Fuel Filter and inspect the driver module. Tow truck estimated was $350, then they did not take ride along due to CoVid. Was very happy with the results of the #56 15 Amp. It got me and the Truck Home!
Man, Bingo my 2009 did the same thing sometimes starts and sometimes not, research says to replace the fuel pressure module by the spare tire, no luck, I seen this and checked that fuse, it was corroded and burnt, fixed my problem, thank you pal !
I live in the desert and found the new location spade a bit corroded. A jewlers file and contact cleaner made quick work of that. Thanks for the great video.
Fuse 27 got me today! Luckily I wasn’t too far from home and was able to get replacement fuse! I will be ordering the relocation kit from Amazon and this will be my weekend project! Happy Thanksgiving 🦃🍽!
Love this and great job. No one understands how hard it is to make a great video like this. Thank you for the time spent on the great fuse also. Thank you very much. Have you another sub and a like for sure!! Best video out here on this. Wish I found it sooner.
thank you for this video.......some mechanics were going to charge me $500 to do this. I did it in about an hour with almost no mechanic experience. Insane.
I got a 14 f150 and my fuse looked just like this and replaced it and fired right up. I ordered the fuse relocation kit that night. I thought it was my fuel pump and I seen the price of one and I almost feel out. Great video and thank you.
I’m aware of this problem on lots of ford trucks! My reason for comment is how you took control of the educational part! And made the job look so easy! 5 star on how you verified the customer’s concerns and verified the repair!!! Awesome job! Keep up the great work
Thanks for the geat info!!! Just got stranded during work. After finding all this info, and Ford being aware of the problem. Why the hell don't they do a recall!?!
This happened to me twice... about a year ago and then just yesterday in front of the post office. The fuse itself did not burn out, but rather, where the blade of the fuse slides in one side of the holder it was completely melted like it was arcing as if there was a poor continuity. It's very strange that this would happen, but the fuse itself will not burn out! This strikes me as a huge fire hazard and I'm surprised that Ford hasn't had a recall. So obviously it's not a problem with the fuel pump drawing too much current, it's the fuse holder itself that cannot handle the current. Anyways, my local mechanic showed up in about 3/4 of an hour while I patiently waited in my truck. He told me to turn the key on but not start the motor while he listened for the fuel pump down by the rear wheel and he couldn't hear it. That's when we opened the fuse box up and noticed that the fuse was melted on one side, this happened to me about a year ago. The exact same thing... I just forgot about it. My mechanic recommend I get this kit to relocate the problem mini fuse for the fuel pump to a larger bladed fuse style on the other side of the fuse box, he said this is a common problem with these f-150s from this generation , mine is a 2013. He's got the kit ordered and I will get it installed promptly so I do not have this problem again, as It really sucks lol.
Apologies ahead of time for the long winded comment lol bare with me. I have an 09 as well and began noticing a lot of heat in the engine bay. While my truck would start it was somewhat of a longer crank. I really began noticing sporadic fuel mileage after refilling and the truck would also have real lack of acceleration. My engine bay would be really hot although the scan tool live data said it coolant temp was within range. Pulled over and shut the truck off for 20 mins…opened the engine bay and appeared to be emitting more heat than usual. I began hearing a “ticking” noise coming from near the fuse box, (similar to what metal sounds like when cooling down after heat cycle). I read about fuse 27 and when I pulled it out it wasn’t blown however I could see signs of heat discoloration. I looked in the manual and found a spare fuse with larger contacts…not sure if it was ideal however the truck began driving a lot better. While i’m not %100 sure my issues are related I do however plan to do the relocation if anything as a preventive. Curious if y’all had any particular trouble codes and or other symptoms when the issue occurred? The only codes I had were related to a small evap leak P0442 and two others U0121 ECM TCM U0028 SRS codes relating to my abs module which were prior issues. Also the ambient air temp readings are sporadic as well abs the ac kicks on by itself sometimes and the radiator fan is blowing high upon start up sometimes. Any feedback would be welcomed thank you both. Kit goes in tomorrow. This video is gonna be a real help.
@@Sheeeeeeeeeeeeiiitt yea the clicking from fuse box was similar..it stalled twice..and first time it stalled it did take a while to start..it had symtoms of a bad fuel pump..but yea the last time it stalled it didnt wanna start..but it didnt have any codes
@@backyardchevy328 hey thanks for replying. Went by Ford and picked up the kit. Of course the directions came with it but this video really helped. Was a little timid at first but turned out good. Gonna clean the mass air flow sensor and throttle body in the morning since I have the negative pulled. Hope this brings my acceleration back…lord I hope it’s not gonna be the pump. Guess I should check the fpdm harness and ground now that I think of it. Thanks again
I don’t have much experience working on cars but I did this fine with the info in the video. If you’re worried about trying this just go for it. As long as you have snips, heatgun/blow driver, needle nose pliers, and socket set you’re pretty much good.
Lol this video didn't fix your problem just relocated it the fuel pump Dr module is pulling to much power over heating your fuse it's. 50 dollar fix and 5 minutes to change it and you'll b good till it starts shorting out lol but that's the real problem
Thanks for this video. I've heard this is a ticking time bomb on these trucks, and i think I'm going to go ahead and tackle mine before it becomes a problem.
My truck was doing same thing crank but wont start open the fuse box and fuse 27 was completely burn it came out in peaces i put new fuse now it wont crank before was cranking but no start so what you think happen
F150 2010 4/4 my fuse was burnt also. Having issues with engine cutting off. And Ford won’t fix it. Replaced fuse today. Guess I’ll get the kit. Great video. Ford would of said it was fuel pump.
Thanks or the video!! I just did this to my 2013 Ford Raptor! Everything works fine in regards to starting the truck, but now my speedometer seems to be sitting below zero. Even after I am driving around 10-15 MPH. Would this have anything to do with my fuse connection? IDK what happened to the speedo!!!
I have not had this problem on my 2013 F150 but I have been told it's very common. Should I get this kit and switch over to this different fuse as a proactive step? Thinking I don't want to get stranded somewhere if this happens on the road.
I had trouble starting my 2013 F150, My fuse was burnt too, I had the relocation kit out in and never had another problem. This should have been a recall issue!
I had this happen to me this morning, 2014 F 150 have owned since 2017, first time I have ever heard of this, no one at local Ford dealer even said a thing, but like I said, first time it showed up, it started up just fine the day before too
Its just the type of fuse, the fuse contacts cant handle the heat thats generated by the current powering the fuel pump, so it begins to melt the fuse overtime
Question. This started happening to me this year. I have just been replacing the fuse with another 10 amp fuse. The fuse location does look melted. But what happens if I just replace a 30 or 20 amp fuse instead of 10 amp. Will it cause damage to the fuel pump?
Yeah that’s how I am about Chevys and GMCs, I’ve had both and had tons of problems out of them and zero out of my F150, won’t ever own another Chevrolet or GMC!!!!
Thanks for this video, I had the cranking over no start issue also. I'm glad it's the fuse which was partially burned but intact vs. fuel pump. When it gets a little warmer here (-8F) I will install this kit. In the mean time carry some extra fuses. 2010 F150 5.4.Thanks again for this excellent video. Bill
Lol don't waste your time the fuel pump Dr module is pulling to much power which is causing this fuse to over heat these modules sometimes get so hot they melt relocating your fuse is just relocating the problem most these ford's make it a hundred thousand miles before having the problem just change the fuel pump Dr module you should be good till it starts shorting out then you will have the same problem again lol but it's all in this failing part just add new fuse and module at the same time oh the module is 50 dollars takes 5 minutes to change 10 mm socket small ratchet it's located over top of spare tire unplug harness take out two screws
@@craigm5601 I was wondering same thing bcs I saw another guy that just replaced the module. Do you know what’s the part number or where to buy it? Thanks
@@kacaigli i bought one from auto zone.Not sure a 100 percent if it was actually necessary looks like most people just change the fuse.i did buy a box of 20amp fuses to keep in the truck just in case it happens again.
Same thing happened to me, I did the fuse relocation and not only did it work but it fixed my radio display from coming on and off on its own. Well now it’s been a month and the radio display screen went out again, only when the truck is running, if the truck is just in on position the screen comes on so my question is do I need to find the fuse for my radio display and relocate that?
Also, the cuz of the fuel pump fuse burning up was from too much power being drawn and that’s why it was relocated, well now that the screen is cutting out again what else could be drawing too much power and what am I at risk of burning up?
Mine blew yesterday, found many F150 owners saying slot 27, me and the dog walked to the nearest auto parts store, about a mile away. Got the taller 20amp mini fuse not the correct low profile 20amp mini fuse and put it in. Fired right up, drove to another auto parts store and got a pack of 5 fuses to keep in the glove box. Just in case.
Once it burns the contacts itll happen again so i may have got it to turn on if i put a new fuse but due to the added resistance im sure it would of happened again, it may cut in and out like what may be happening in ur case, but to avoid any further damage to distribution block and to make it reliable its better to relocate it
You can clean the contacts with an emery board and some deoxit D5. Most the time it's not burned up bad enough to were it can't be fixed. I've run into this issue at least a dozen times on customer cars, I would only relocate the fuse if this is a persistent issue after you attempted to clean the original contacts.
Mine did. I pulled the 15 amp mirror defroster fuse. Engine fired right up and I went straight to the closest Auto Store and got some new 20A fuses. When using a lower rated fuse you are building in an extra safety net. If you use a 25 Amp fuse you risk more damage. Cheers
Hey Backyard Chevy, I have a 2010 model year. The fuse on mine looks completely fine but I'm having really bad issues starting the truck at ambient temp. Do you think this could still be the problem even if the stock fuse looks fine?
No, more than likely itll be some other issue especially if it starts but only at certain temperature itll have problems..like elaborate on what u mean by really bad issues starting it?
@@backyardchevy328 it will turn over then die, like in the mornings or after 6 or 7 hours sitting at ambient temperature. Maybe not necessarily the cold weather because I've only owned the truck for about a month and the weather has been the same for the most part in the month of owning. But, once I start it and getting it running, then say I run a few errands it will start no problem while running errands. But, after sitting for awhile it struggles to start. It will just be an extended crank, then fire up and die.
@@taylorburton4565 sounds like it could be a cold start air flow problem...possibly cleaning out the throttle body..since they don't have an idle air control valve if theres a lot of gunk near throttle body blade it could affect cold starts
This may be a dumb question, but what keeps you from using electrical tape rather than shrink wrap? It seems much easier and no risk of melting other wires?
This stranded me at work but I have AAA and they towed me home. Now, because of this awesome video, I am ready to perform my own surgery. Thanks for the clear and to the point tutorial !!!
Exactly my issue. Was intermittent truck just would crank but not start. Turns out the fuse was burnt and not visibly separated in the center, the side melted. This is a safety issue should be a recall. This video is great. Thank you for putting this together for the masses!
Yupp pulled mine today and of course one side was burnt
Anyone else find his voice different yet cool and kinda soothing? Lol maybe I’m just weird. Awesome video though helps a bunch!
Thank you🙂 ive been told that a few times when im not talking so fast that is lol
Cool and soothing...definitely! His voice puts you at ease, and gives you the confidence to achieve the relocation. 👍🏻
Brooo! I was just thinking this! The tone, confidence, and inflection is on point, and the slight variance from standard annunciation makes it perfect.
This just bit me this morning, fuse blown in my 2009. Just getting ready to call a tow and decided to check the internet first. New fuse, truck started and ordering the kit today. Thank you for the clear and concise video!
Excellent video, unfortunately, my truck suddenly quit running while I was parking at my Dr's office, and I was stranded, so ended up having to get towed to a mechanical shop. They recognized te problem right off and got the repair done by noon the following day, but between the tow, repair. and a rent car I spent close to $500. If it had happened in my driveway at home I could have done this repair myself. Thanks for posting!
After watching this video, I located and replaced fuse 27. Problem solved! Saved me a ton of money. Thank you!
Thank You for this video! Pulled the fuse and it looked just like this. We were so afraid that we were going to have to replace the fuel pump.
Glad to be able to help🙂 yea its a very common problem on these trucks unfortunately
@backyard Chevy thank you so much bro you just saved my life. Truck suddenly threw battery code, died, then low oil pressure while driving. I was thinking my motor gave out and you just got me up and running in like 5 minutes. If you’re ever in Saint Louis I owe you a beer!
You just saved me buckets of $$$$$$; thanks a million! 👍🏻 my fuse was charred; put in another, and started right up!
Will be ordering and installing the relocation kit. I'm impressed with your very precise and thorough instructions on replacing.
You now have a new subscriber!
Thats great! Hopefully everything goes smoothly with the relocation🙂👍 thank you for the support
0⁰
My truck "supposedly had it done" but the guy who did it fused the wrong circuit. I think the blower motor 🤣🤣🤣🤣. There is a similar wire. I am still running the fuel pump off the little fuse (have to do it right one day)
This just happened to me. Left me stranded at work. Wish I had seen this before letting a $0.10 fuse cost me a $90 tow bill ( I live less than a mile from work) Great video !! I just ordered 2 kits. One for my 2012 FX4 Coyote and one for my dads 2013 Limited 3.7 Eco. Thanks for posting.
Fantastic video with clear instructions. I, like the rest of those watching this video, were able to save a trip to the dealer and few hundred dollars. Thanks for sharing.
I had this very issue today. Call my Bro inlaw and my friends at Penske. Consensus was to get the manual out and check the relay fuse #8 so I swapped it with the rear window defroster so I switch and still no fuel. Finally I decided to look at the fuse chart and found #27 to be the Fuse for the Fuse Relay. Man the 20 A fuse looked just like the one in this video. I am 40 miles from home so I find the mirror defroster fuse 15A and Insert it. Engine fired right up. Take Note. the 15 amp fuse will be easier to blow than a 20 Amp but it gots me to a parts store and I installed a new 20A Fuse.
Yea definitely worth doing in an emergency situation..u just wanna avoid using a higher amp fuse since u want the fuse to blow before the components in the system.
@@backyardchevy328 Man yeah. I was thinking. if this 15 blows I may be totally boned. And the root cause of this is the fuse holder itself? I will likely replace the Fuel Filter and inspect the driver module. Tow truck estimated was $350, then they did not take ride along due to CoVid. Was very happy with the results of the #56 15 Amp. It got me and the Truck Home!
@@unklefester1980 yes definitely worth it and glad u were able to make it there safely
Man, Bingo my 2009 did the same thing sometimes starts and sometimes not, research says to replace the fuel pressure module by the spare tire, no luck, I seen this and checked that fuse, it was corroded and burnt, fixed my problem, thank you pal !
I live in the desert and found the new location spade a bit corroded. A jewlers file and contact cleaner made quick work of that.
Thanks for the great video.
This just happened to me this afternoon. Fuse 27 was not melted though. I'll check with a multimeter...thanks for the great video!
Any luck? Mine was not melted either, but threw the code for fuel pump
My fuse burnt but also broke into pieces . Thanks for the video.
Fuse 27 got me today! Luckily I wasn’t too far from home and was able to get replacement fuse! I will be ordering the relocation kit from Amazon and this will be my weekend project! Happy Thanksgiving 🦃🍽!
Love this and great job. No one understands how hard it is to make a great video like this. Thank you for the time spent on the great fuse also. Thank you very much. Have you another sub and a like for sure!! Best video out here on this. Wish I found it sooner.
thank you for this video.......some mechanics were going to charge me $500 to do this. I did it in about an hour with almost no mechanic experience. Insane.
This has been one of the most helpful and thorough install videos I’ve watched. Thank you for sharing.
You are a life saver ! was ready to change my fuel pump ! I should send you a case of beer . Thank You !
Once again....an awesome video that just saved my hundreds of dollars in tows and diagnosis for a .10 fuse! Thank you!!!!
I just want to applaud you and thank you for such a great video. Very detailed and not skipped like most people do.
Thank you🙂
This just happened to me today, saved me the tow from my driveway thanks brother
I got a 14 f150 and my fuse looked just like this and replaced it and fired right up. I ordered the fuse relocation kit that night. I thought it was my fuel pump and I seen the price of one and I almost feel out. Great video and thank you.
So glad u didnt have to and it was just the fuse🙂👍 thank you
I’m aware of this problem on lots of ford trucks! My reason for comment is how you took control of the educational part! And made the job look so easy! 5 star on how you verified the customer’s concerns and verified the repair!!! Awesome job! Keep up the great work
Thanks for the geat info!!! Just got stranded during work. After finding all this info, and Ford being aware of the problem. Why the hell don't they do a recall!?!
I was thinking the same thing!!
being cheap remember the issues with the pinto?
This happened to me twice... about a year ago and then just yesterday in front of the post office. The fuse itself did not burn out, but rather, where the blade of the fuse slides in one side of the holder it was completely melted like it was arcing as if there was a poor continuity. It's very strange that this would happen, but the fuse itself will not burn out! This strikes me as a huge fire hazard and I'm surprised that Ford hasn't had a recall. So obviously it's not a problem with the fuel pump drawing too much current, it's the fuse holder itself that cannot handle the current. Anyways, my local mechanic showed up in about 3/4 of an hour while I patiently waited in my truck. He told me to turn the key on but not start the motor while he listened for the fuel pump down by the rear wheel and he couldn't hear it. That's when we opened the fuse box up and noticed that the fuse was melted on one side, this happened to me about a year ago. The exact same thing... I just forgot about it. My mechanic recommend I get this kit to relocate the problem mini fuse for the fuel pump to a larger bladed fuse style on the other side of the fuse box, he said this is a common problem with these f-150s from this generation , mine is a 2013. He's got the kit ordered and I will get it installed promptly so I do not have this problem again, as It really sucks lol.
Nice video, I replaced the fuse & she fired right up, I bought the upgrade fuse kit & replace it this week or weekend 🇺🇸🐱🇺🇸🐱🇺🇸🐱
Thats great!🙂👍
This happend on my 2010 f150 thanks for the info and video! Going to save me a bunch of time and money!
seen these fail many times. never knew there was a reloctation kit. thank you!.
Yea unfortunately too often
Best one on the internet by far!!
I always appreciate good reviews so here’s mine : this worked perfectly for my 09 F150 thanks for this video !!
Thats so great! Thank you🙂 yes i do appreciate em as well👍
Apologies ahead of time for the long winded comment lol bare with me.
I have an 09 as well and began noticing a lot of heat in the engine bay. While my truck would start it was somewhat of a longer crank. I really began noticing sporadic fuel mileage after refilling and the truck would also have real lack of acceleration. My engine bay would be really hot although the scan tool live data said it coolant temp was within range. Pulled over and shut the truck off for 20 mins…opened the engine bay and appeared to be emitting more heat than usual. I began hearing a “ticking” noise coming from near the fuse box, (similar to what metal sounds like when cooling down after heat cycle).
I read about fuse 27 and when I pulled it out it wasn’t blown however I could see signs of heat discoloration. I looked in the manual and found a spare fuse with larger contacts…not sure if it was ideal however the truck began driving a lot better. While i’m not %100 sure my issues are related I do however plan to do the relocation if anything as a preventive.
Curious if y’all had any particular trouble codes and or other symptoms when the issue occurred? The only codes I had were related to a small evap leak P0442 and two others U0121 ECM TCM U0028 SRS codes relating to my abs module which were prior issues. Also the ambient air temp readings are sporadic as well abs the ac kicks on by itself sometimes and the radiator fan is blowing high upon start up sometimes.
Any feedback would be welcomed thank you both. Kit goes in tomorrow. This video is gonna be a real help.
@@Sheeeeeeeeeeeeiiitt yea the clicking from fuse box was similar..it stalled twice..and first time it stalled it did take a while to start..it had symtoms of a bad fuel pump..but yea the last time it stalled it didnt wanna start..but it didnt have any codes
@@backyardchevy328 hey thanks for replying. Went by Ford and picked up the kit. Of course the directions came with it but this video really helped. Was a little timid at first but turned out good. Gonna clean the mass air flow sensor and throttle body in the morning since I have the negative pulled. Hope this brings my acceleration back…lord I hope it’s not gonna be the pump. Guess I should check the fpdm harness and ground now that I think of it. Thanks again
@@Sheeeeeeeeeeeeiiitt hopefully everything goes smoothly🙂 good luck
Excellent video - clear, concise and extremely useful. Thank you
THANK YOU - Parts ordered and I will be happy to resolve this problem
Thank you sir !!! I will be doing this project this weekend !!!
Excellent video. Clear and to the point.
Thank you🙂
You helped me through this fix, thank you❤
I don’t have much experience working on cars but I did this fine with the info in the video. If you’re worried about trying this just go for it. As long as you have snips, heatgun/blow driver, needle nose pliers, and socket set you’re pretty much good.
You’re a lifesaver! Thanks for the vid!
So glad to be able to help🙂 thank you
Lol this video didn't fix your problem just relocated it the fuel pump Dr module is pulling to much power over heating your fuse it's. 50 dollar fix and 5 minutes to change it and you'll b good till it starts shorting out lol but that's the real problem
This happened to me yesterday. I just got done fixing mine. Took about 1 hr.
Great clip and informative and very helpful thank you
Can a crimp on butt connector be used? The supplied shrink tubing will fit. I have thousands in marine applications.
I mean u can..but theyre not the greatest connection..theyre known to slip out if not crimped properly and they do increase its resistance on the wire
@@backyardchevy328 probably still a better circuit than Fords original lol. Thanks.
@@ironpony12 haha true
Yah that should do it
Thanks for this video. I've heard this is a ticking time bomb on these trucks, and i think I'm going to go ahead and tackle mine before it becomes a problem.
Yea definitely, much better to avoid the risk of getting stranded somewhere
Great tutorial and very clear. Will be doing this soon!
My truck was doing same thing crank but wont start open the fuse box and fuse 27 was completely burn it came out in peaces i put new fuse now it wont crank before was cranking but no start so what you think happen
Very nice video .Mines in the shop getting this done now as I type I
F150 2010 4/4 my fuse was burnt also. Having issues with engine cutting off. And Ford won’t fix it. Replaced fuse today. Guess I’ll get the kit. Great video. Ford would of said it was fuel pump.
Yea unfortunately its such a common problem and unfortunately its just a service bulletin instead of recall, which they should of made it a recall.
Thanks a million! This took care of my problem.
Thank you. You saved me alot of money
Happy to be able to help🙂 thank you
Good video will try replacing the fuse & recharging the battery 🐱🇺🇸
Thank you🙂 hope it works..good luck
Thanks or the video!!
I just did this to my 2013 Ford Raptor! Everything works fine in regards to starting the truck, but now my speedometer seems to be sitting below zero. Even after I am driving around 10-15 MPH. Would this have anything to do with my fuse connection? IDK what happened to the speedo!!!
Do you know where the inertia switch is? My 2013 f150 seems to not have one!!
Very well done, explained and shown very detailed....thank you
Awesome video! I wish everyone made videos like this
Thank you🙂
I have not had this problem on my 2013 F150 but I have been told it's very common. Should I get this kit and switch over to this different fuse as a proactive step? Thinking I don't want to get stranded somewhere if this happens on the road.
How long does it take to do this cause I have to do this to my 2014 f150
Thanks for posting ! Your video was very helpful
I don’t have a solder gun probably isn’t absolutely necessary right but it would probably be better if it was ?
I had trouble starting my 2013 F150, My fuse was burnt too, I had the relocation kit out in and never had another problem. This should have been a recall issue!
Yea its too common of a problem that it should have been recalled
Can you just replace the fuse? Is relocating the wire really necessary
I had this happen to me this morning, 2014 F 150 have owned since 2017, first time I have ever heard of this, no one at local Ford dealer even said a thing, but like I said, first time it showed up, it started up just fine the day before too
The way you put the sticker on crooked at the end has my ocd going crazy lol
Lol yea it was slightly crooked..but it bugged me too so i removed it and put the 2nd sticker on straight
Love the video. Love your accent. Lol
Thanks so much for your video, I fixed my truck!
Thats awesome! Great job🙂👍
Great video bro. Very informative and well explained
What cause the fuse to over heat in the first place? Would dielectric grease help prevent the over heat condition?
Its just the type of fuse, the fuse contacts cant handle the heat thats generated by the current powering the fuel pump, so it begins to melt the fuse overtime
Question. This started happening to me this year. I have just been replacing the fuse with another 10 amp fuse. The fuse location does look melted. But what happens if I just replace a 30 or 20 amp fuse instead of 10 amp. Will it cause damage to the fuel pump?
Great video. Thank you!
Thank you brother 🫂🤙🏻
great video and explanation!!
Good video bro great explanation
I did the relocation , it cracked right on 2 times and then not anymore, any tips?
thank goodness i will never own a ford product, great repair video none the less
Thank you🙂
I agree, this type of thing shouldn't be necessary
@@plutosforest yea i hate having to cut a main wire to the fuse box
That’s a shame
Yeah that’s how I am about Chevys and GMCs, I’ve had both and had tons of problems out of them and zero out of my F150, won’t ever own another Chevrolet or GMC!!!!
Thank you! Great simple video!
Awesome video🙏🏻🤘🏻
Really well made video. Thank you for the info.
Thanks for this video, I had the cranking over no start issue also. I'm glad it's the fuse which was partially burned but intact vs. fuel pump. When it gets a little warmer here (-8F) I will install this kit. In the mean time carry some extra fuses. 2010 F150 5.4.Thanks again for this excellent video. Bill
Thank you🙂 yea thats definitely cold, glad it was just that too👍
Lol don't waste your time the fuel pump Dr module is pulling to much power which is causing this fuse to over heat these modules sometimes get so hot they melt relocating your fuse is just relocating the problem most these ford's make it a hundred thousand miles before having the problem just change the fuel pump Dr module you should be good till it starts shorting out then you will have the same problem again lol but it's all in this failing part just add new fuse and module at the same time oh the module is 50 dollars takes 5 minutes to change 10 mm socket small ratchet it's located over top of spare tire unplug harness take out two screws
@@craigm5601 I was wondering same thing bcs I saw another guy that just replaced the module. Do you know what’s the part number or where to buy it? Thanks
@@kacaigli i bought one from auto zone.Not sure a 100 percent if it was actually necessary looks like most people just change the fuse.i did buy a box of 20amp fuses to keep in the truck just in case it happens again.
Excellent video. Thanks
should I be worried if I don’t have one?
Same thing happened to me, I did the fuse relocation and not only did it work but it fixed my radio display from coming on and off on its own. Well now it’s been a month and the radio display screen went out again, only when the truck is running, if the truck is just in on position the screen comes on so my question is do I need to find the fuse for my radio display and relocate that?
Also, the cuz of the fuel pump fuse burning up was from too much power being drawn and that’s why it was relocated, well now that the screen is cutting out again what else could be drawing too much power and what am I at risk of burning up?
Cause*
Have u tried doing a reset on it?
Mine blew yesterday, found many F150 owners saying slot 27, me and the dog walked to the nearest auto parts store, about a mile away. Got the taller 20amp mini fuse not the correct low profile 20amp mini fuse and put it in. Fired right up, drove to another auto parts store and got a pack of 5 fuses to keep in the glove box. Just in case.
MUCHAS Gracias mi amigo!
My 2014 did this tonight replaced the fuse battery light kept coming on
Your instructions work great thank you
Thank you🙂
thank you for this video
Thank you excellent 😊
Truck is having this exact problem.. I’m praying it’s the fuse when I get home.. wish me luck!!
Hopefully it is...good luck🤞
Super GREAT Video Bro!!!
Thank you🙂
Awesome. Saved me a ton. Thanks!
Thank you🙂 so glad to be able to help
Great job love it well explain
You did a very thorough job.⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thank you🙂
So if you were to put a new 20 in same spot would it have worked or you still would of had to put a relocation kit
Cause I’m having the same problem but a 2011 and the fuse is on there and it turns on but turns right back fack
Off*
Once it burns the contacts itll happen again so i may have got it to turn on if i put a new fuse but due to the added resistance im sure it would of happened again, it may cut in and out like what may be happening in ur case, but to avoid any further damage to distribution block and to make it reliable its better to relocate it
You can clean the contacts with an emery board and some deoxit D5. Most the time it's not burned up bad enough to were it can't be fixed.
I've run into this issue at least a dozen times on customer cars, I would only relocate the fuse if this is a persistent issue after you attempted to clean the original contacts.
Mine did. I pulled the 15 amp mirror defroster fuse. Engine fired right up and I went straight to the closest Auto Store and got some new 20A fuses. When using a lower rated fuse you are building in an extra safety net. If you use a 25 Amp fuse you risk more damage. Cheers
Hey Backyard Chevy, I have a 2010 model year. The fuse on mine looks completely fine but I'm having really bad issues starting the truck at ambient temp. Do you think this could still be the problem even if the stock fuse looks fine?
No, more than likely itll be some other issue especially if it starts but only at certain temperature itll have problems..like elaborate on what u mean by really bad issues starting it?
@@backyardchevy328 it will turn over then die, like in the mornings or after 6 or 7 hours sitting at ambient temperature. Maybe not necessarily the cold weather because I've only owned the truck for about a month and the weather has been the same for the most part in the month of owning. But, once I start it and getting it running, then say I run a few errands it will start no problem while running errands. But, after sitting for awhile it struggles to start. It will just be an extended crank, then fire up and die.
@@taylorburton4565 sounds like it could be a cold start air flow problem...possibly cleaning out the throttle body..since they don't have an idle air control valve if theres a lot of gunk near throttle body blade it could affect cold starts
@@backyardchevy328 OK I'll look into that. Thank you for your response. I do appreciate it!
@@taylorburton4565 anytime...good luck
Great Video!
Thank you🙂
great just what i was looking for will save me some cash$$$$$
What a great video !!
Thank you🙂
This may be a dumb question, but what keeps you from using electrical tape rather than shrink wrap? It seems much easier and no risk of melting other wires?
U can use either actually..heat shrink tubing just looks a lil more professional(in my opinion)
@@backyardchevy328 heat shrink doesn’t fall off like tape can
Wish i checkes my fuse first ,i checked it after puting in a new pump and the fuse was fried 😂😂😂 oh well at least now i have a new pump smh
Lol yea well brightside u do got a new pump
@@backyardchevy328 lol yes
Thank you!
Why no just use a quality heat shrink butt connector ?