Has anybody still dealt with crank no start issues after replacing this? The dealership is telling me my fuel pump is bad along with the catalytic converter. Every morning, I'm dealing with 5-10 seconds of cranking before it starts even after the fuse was relocated.
Hello, I haven't experienced any issues but if someone else has, hopefully they can tell you how they solved their issue! For now, I will pin this comment to the top of this video in hopes someone can help you!
the reason it is a long crank in the morning is because there is a check valve located in the pump to stop the fuel pressure from leaking back into the tank so vehicle will maintain fuel pressure and start right away. so if you want fixed correctly so there is no excessive cranking then go ahead and replace fuel pump. but im sure its about $500. but if you can live with the long crank on startup then just leave it be ,wont affect anything
This is a fantastic video with great quality and very easy to follow. This happened to my truck today at the dealership and they wanted $400 to fix. I fixed it in their parking lot after watching this video in less than 1 hour and for less than $40. Actually easier than it looks. Thank you so much, hope to learn more from you in the future.
Truck cranked and would not start yesterday morning; did a search and found out about this fuse 27 issue, which when I pulled it, was clearly melted...ordered the repair kit from Amazon (genuine Ford part) at half thee cost of the local Ford dealer, and followed along with this video. repair was super easy, truck started right up after the repair! Thanks for posting such a great video! Hugely helpful!
Thanks for making this video to show where all the components are at. But I would strongly suggest watching some videos on how to solder. There are specific ways to twist the wire to make a strong mechanical and electrical connection. However the problem I saw with your soldering was that you created a cold joint. This happens when you have melted solder but your wire is not hot enough. You end up creating more of a jacket of solder instead of having it bond to the wire.
Great video. Mine fried today. 315k miles and first issue. Truck died while driving, luckily I was on a county road and going about 20mph. Wouldn't fire at all. Loaded the truck on a trailer and hauled home. Was getting ready to take to Ford house when Google revealed the fuse 27 fix. A couple of bucks later with a new fuse truck was running again. Definitely going to follow through with this to ensure it doesn't happen again.
i usually do not comment but you did an excellent job. I enjoyed your video and your what not to do and so excited to see if it worked that you forgot to hook up battery and wires first. I was a mechanic for ford motor company for 30 years and I remember doing this when the tsb came out. thanks for the recap. now I have to go do this to my sons truck. lol. his fuse is melted thou.
Oh man, I'm sorry that happened. There have been a lot of trucks that melted a fuse. Hopefully it goes smooth for you! Let me know how it goes brother! 🤟
I haven't taken my fuse box apart yet so please excuse an obvious question. I was wondering why you did not simply remove the factory wire from fuse 27 position and move it to fuse 70 position? Do the factory wire ends not release from the fuse box? Are they different size? Seems like moving the wire would be much easier than cut & solder. Great video though. Thanks
I'm going to assume it may be too difficult to do that, but I'm not 100% sure. The Fuse 27 relocation guide came straight from Ford, so I just followed their instructions. I also haven't seen anyone else do it the way you mentioned, so (again I'm assuming) this is probably the best way to tackle this common issue in these trucks.
Yea I think so too. If you figure it out, come back and let me know! I'm sure someone else will have the same question at some point. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment! 🤟
Perffect Video, Thank You. Now only if you had one on a fix on why my 2014 F15 5.0L fans keep running. I repolace thermostat, new coolant. High speed fan runs even when it is cool outside, I turn on AC and it runs every few minutes and shuts off but dash gage is at half way. Never over heats. I read the coolant temp sensor might be the problem but only read about head temp sensors so I have no Idea where the coolant temp sensor is. Again, great video, corrected my truck from not starting.
Ford went with a bigger fuse because the other one was small and would burn up. This will leave you stranded unfortunately. You could buy some fuses and keep them on hand, but the issue is once it burns up there's a good chance it will burn the location the fuse is in also. This new fuse eliminates that from happening.
Same here Steve. I didn't have an issue, but figured it was better to replace it before it happened. Good luck and be sure to let us know how it goes! 🤟
You should have an electric crank assist on your starter. Don't crank. Let it do the work. Turn the key for like a count of one. Then let go. The starter should keep cranking until the motor starts
Great tip! I know the push button to start vehicles had it, but had no idea the trucks with a key has it. It worked just as you said. Thanks for sharing! 🙏
Do you mean it cranked on? I would open it back up and see if the fuse blew for some reason, or recheck the wires to make sure it's still has a good connection.
Sorry about that! I thought I had it in the description but I think I forgot. I updated it and will leave a link in this comment below! Fuse 27 Kit - amzn.to/3q80wlC
Would it have been better to put a fuse relocation kit in that plugs into the old fuse socket and relocates with a new fuse socket? Just unplug old fuse, plug in new plug and double side foam tape new socket to open space on fuse block. Three minutes work and no accidental broken or pulled out wires. Just sayin.
@@TrickShiftGarage Except all the moving of the fuse block with wires. Seems like a recipe for disaster. They use a fuse relocation kit for high power amps. It plugs into the old socket, has heavy gauge wires to a new socket. Use double side tape to place it in an open spot. Quick, easy and no jerking the fuse block around possibly creating new problems. Just an idea.
Decent video but you can completely skip that first step, as the trim doesn't block anything for this job. You should have pulled the clip that secured that large wire loom to the front of the box, however, instead of spending half the video fighting it the way you did. Also don't be afraid to use a heat gun on this task, as it doesn't generate enough heat to affect anything but the heat shrink sleeve so long as you move the heat gun side to side to keep directed heat from building up enough to cause damage.
I had the same issue after my throttle body was installed due to a wrench light and a shut down which left me stranded…after my throttle body was installed a week later my truck didn’t start it made a weird sound and didn’t crank over almost like a yell when trying to start..my wife and I googled it and sure enough this was the problem my fuse was burnt but all I did was replace it and it’s working fine…if I have to relocate it I’m willing to do that but my question is why can’t we just replace the fuse with another one what is the purpose on relocating it rather than just putting in a new fuse in the same spot…I’m not mechanically inclined so if it’s a dumb question I apologize I’m just wanting to to understand the relocation purpose
@@johngarza5272 So the fuse is burning out like this due to a design defect that the relocation kit addresses. Given that it took 12 years for this fuse to burn out on my 2011, I think as long as you're aware of the issue and keep some spares on hand in your glove box (everyone should keep a kit of a least one spare for every size and amp rating in their vehicle anyway) installing this kit isn't really necessary. I did it because fixing things once is in my nature and I had the time and tools to do it, but it is by no means mission critical so to speak.
Has anybody still dealt with crank no start issues after replacing this? The dealership is telling me my fuel pump is bad along with the catalytic converter. Every morning, I'm dealing with 5-10 seconds of cranking before it starts even after the fuse was relocated.
Hello, I haven't experienced any issues but if someone else has, hopefully they can tell you how they solved their issue! For now, I will pin this comment to the top of this video in hopes someone can help you!
the reason it is a long crank in the morning is because there is a check valve located in the pump to stop the fuel pressure from leaking back into the tank so vehicle will maintain fuel pressure and start right away. so if you want fixed correctly so there is no excessive cranking then go ahead and replace fuel pump. but im sure its about $500. but if you can live with the long crank on startup then just leave it be ,wont affect anything
Of it's your cat just unbolt exhaust at y pipe and see if it fires right up. I've had some crazy shit happen due to cats
One benefit of longer cranking is the oil pump get time to put oil on the top of the motor before it starts.
Might be a hassle when it's already hot.
Check fuel pump relay. #8
This is a fantastic video with great quality and very easy to follow. This happened to my truck today at the dealership and they wanted $400 to fix. I fixed it in their parking lot after watching this video in less than 1 hour and for less than $40. Actually easier than it looks. Thank you so much, hope to learn more from you in the future.
Awesome, I'm glad you got it done! Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment! 🤟
Truck cranked and would not start yesterday morning; did a search and found out about this fuse 27 issue, which when I pulled it, was clearly melted...ordered the repair kit from Amazon (genuine Ford part) at half thee cost of the local Ford dealer, and followed along with this video. repair was super easy, truck started right up after the repair! Thanks for posting such a great video! Hugely helpful!
Awesome man, I am glad it helped! Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment! 🙏
Alot of motorcraft parts on Amazon are fakes
🤷♂️ this is still working. So I guess it's a genuine part.
Thanks for making this video to show where all the components are at. But I would strongly suggest watching some videos on how to solder. There are specific ways to twist the wire to make a strong mechanical and electrical connection. However the problem I saw with your soldering was that you created a cold joint. This happens when you have melted solder but your wire is not hot enough. You end up creating more of a jacket of solder instead of having it bond to the wire.
That's a great tip! Thanks John!
getting the wire to heat up "properly" is a whole lot easier said than done, if the repair is still working, that's all that matters
Especially being in such a tight area. But truck is still going strong!
Great video. Mine fried today. 315k miles and first issue. Truck died while driving, luckily I was on a county road and going about 20mph. Wouldn't fire at all. Loaded the truck on a trailer and hauled home. Was getting ready to take to Ford house when Google revealed the fuse 27 fix. A couple of bucks later with a new fuse truck was running again. Definitely going to follow through with this to ensure it doesn't happen again.
Yea these fuses are famous for going out on these trucks. It's a pretty simple fix, but very annoying to deal with.
i usually do not comment but you did an excellent job. I enjoyed your video and your what not to do and so excited to see if it worked that you forgot to hook up battery and wires first. I was a mechanic for ford motor company for 30 years and I remember doing this when the tsb came out. thanks for the recap. now I have to go do this to my sons truck. lol. his fuse is melted thou.
Oh man, I'm sorry that happened. There have been a lot of trucks that melted a fuse. Hopefully it goes smooth for you! Let me know how it goes brother! 🤟
I haven't taken my fuse box apart yet so please excuse an obvious question. I was wondering why you did not simply remove the factory wire from fuse 27 position and move it to fuse 70 position? Do the factory wire ends not release from the fuse box? Are they different size? Seems like moving the wire would be much easier than cut & solder. Great video though. Thanks
I'm going to assume it may be too difficult to do that, but I'm not 100% sure. The Fuse 27 relocation guide came straight from Ford, so I just followed their instructions. I also haven't seen anyone else do it the way you mentioned, so (again I'm assuming) this is probably the best way to tackle this common issue in these trucks.
Thanks for the quick reply. There must be a good reason which will probably be apparent once I get into the box.
Yea I think so too. If you figure it out, come back and let me know! I'm sure someone else will have the same question at some point. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment! 🤟
Man this a fantastic video you explained very well step by step thank you buddy..
Hey thanks man I really appreciate the kind words! And thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment! 🤟
Perffect Video, Thank You. Now only if you had one on a fix on why my 2014 F15 5.0L fans keep running. I repolace thermostat, new coolant. High speed fan runs even when it is cool outside, I turn on AC and it runs every few minutes and shuts off but dash gage is at half way. Never over heats. I read the coolant temp sensor might be the problem but only read about head temp sensors so I have no Idea where the coolant temp sensor is. Again, great video, corrected my truck from not starting.
Hey thanks for reaching out! I'm glad the video helped! I haven't heard about your issue, but I can do some research and see what I can find!
Very well edited and put together. Other DIY channels should take note
Hey thank you Alex! We appreciate the kind words and thank you for watching! 🤟
Appreciated your valuable lesson! Thanks
Anytime! Thanks for watching! 🤟
Question can you just use a crimp that has shrink hose on it instead of trying to solder the wire together
You can if you want, but I would rather solder them together. 🤟
Just bout a 2011 f150....what is the actuall problem with this particular fuse that necessitates this?
Ford went with a bigger fuse because the other one was small and would burn up. This will leave you stranded unfortunately. You could buy some fuses and keep them on hand, but the issue is once it burns up there's a good chance it will burn the location the fuse is in also. This new fuse eliminates that from happening.
Excellent video! Thanks for posting that. Very helpful.
Thanks Don! And thank you for watching! 🤟
Excellent video. Thank you!
Thank you, and thanks for taking the time to leave a comment! 🤟
Thank you I am going to buy this kit before I have this issue. Dealer said 0.6 to due job, I going to give it a try myself. Great video sir🛻🛻
Same here Steve. I didn't have an issue, but figured it was better to replace it before it happened. Good luck and be sure to let us know how it goes! 🤟
Hey it's been awhile, but I wanted to check up and see if you got this done?
You should have an electric crank assist on your starter. Don't crank. Let it do the work. Turn the key for like a count of one. Then let go. The starter should keep cranking until the motor starts
Great tip! I know the push button to start vehicles had it, but had no idea the trucks with a key has it. It worked just as you said. Thanks for sharing! 🙏
I did the relocation , it cracked right on 2 times and then not anymore, any tips?
Do you mean it cranked on? I would open it back up and see if the fuse blew for some reason, or recheck the wires to make sure it's still has a good connection.
I'd call that nut inside of the box because that's what it is. The bolt is what the nut goes on.
Agreed
Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching! 🤟
Thank for the video....helps a lot
Anytime, thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment! 🤟
Is there a link for the authorized part? Or are the kits on Amazon fine?
The link to Amazon in the description of the video is the Motorcraft Part (official part from Ford).
@@TrickShiftGarage would repost here as well please? I have checked all the links in description and cannot locate it.
Sorry about that! I thought I had it in the description but I think I forgot. I updated it and will leave a link in this comment below!
Fuse 27 Kit - amzn.to/3q80wlC
@@TrickShiftGarage thank you and great work on your channel! all the best!
Thanks we appreciate it! 🙏
Done, thanks a bunch. Love your cander and giving yourself a hard time. We all do it. Just not outlook on TH-cam.
Thank you very much! We appreciate it man! 🙏
Great video. Thx
Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment! 🤟
Great job. You did everything the way I'd of done it, as simply as possible. Lol
Lol thanks for watching! 🤟
Nice Advice! 💯☝️👍
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment Dallas! 🤟
Sitting on a cold dark highway trying to figure out a fuse?
Yea, unfortunately some people have ran into that issue. So I decided to fix mine before it became a problem. Thanks for watching! 🤟
Me rn bro. You're not alone (6 months later)
Damn sorry brother! Hope you can get it fixed quick! Let me know how it goes!
Would it have been better to put a fuse relocation kit in that plugs into the old fuse socket and relocates with a new fuse socket?
Just unplug old fuse, plug in new plug and double side foam tape new socket to open space on fuse block.
Three minutes work and no accidental broken or pulled out wires.
Just sayin.
I'm not quite sure what you mean. This process is directly from Ford. If there was a better or easier way, I'm sure they would have went that route.
@@TrickShiftGarage
Except all the moving of the fuse block with wires. Seems like a recipe for disaster.
They use a fuse relocation kit for high power amps.
It plugs into the old socket, has heavy gauge wires to a new socket.
Use double side tape to place it in an open spot. Quick, easy and no jerking the fuse block around possibly creating new problems.
Just an idea.
Again, this is directly from Ford. If you have the knowledge to do something like that, go for it.
2004 - 2020 Ford F150 Axles, Wheel Bearings and IWE's replacement!
th-cam.com/video/_Xph9w5cUMQ/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much
Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment! We appreciate it! 🙏
Decent video but you can completely skip that first step, as the trim doesn't block anything for this job. You should have pulled the clip that secured that large wire loom to the front of the box, however, instead of spending half the video fighting it the way you did.
Also don't be afraid to use a heat gun on this task, as it doesn't generate enough heat to affect anything but the heat shrink sleeve so long as you move the heat gun side to side to keep directed heat from building up enough to cause damage.
I had the same issue after my throttle body was installed due to a wrench light and a shut down which left me stranded…after my throttle body was installed a week later my truck didn’t start it made a weird sound and didn’t crank over almost like a yell when trying to start..my wife and I googled it and sure enough this was the problem my fuse was burnt but all I did was replace it and it’s working fine…if I have to relocate it I’m willing to do that but my question is why can’t we just replace the fuse with another one what is the purpose on relocating it rather than just putting in a new fuse in the same spot…I’m not mechanically inclined so if it’s a dumb question I apologize I’m just wanting to to understand the relocation purpose
@@johngarza5272 So the fuse is burning out like this due to a design defect that the relocation kit addresses. Given that it took 12 years for this fuse to burn out on my 2011, I think as long as you're aware of the issue and keep some spares on hand in your glove box (everyone should keep a kit of a least one spare for every size and amp rating in their vehicle anyway) installing this kit isn't really necessary. I did it because fixing things once is in my nature and I had the time and tools to do it, but it is by no means mission critical so to speak.
My f-150 is a 2010 lariat, looking at the fuse box in your video, the relays are in different on my truck, than that in your video, why
I'm guessing it's because they are completely different engines. In 2011, Ford ditched the 4.6 and 5.4 V8's for the 5.0 V8 and Ecoboost V6 (3.5).
That was painful to watch 😖
Do you need a medic?
I lost my headlights and park lights, I only have high beam, and it can't find any fuse blown, what could just go so wrong
You may have cut the wrong wire. Were you able to figure out what was wrong?
8 & 10 mm 'bolts'?
Or, 'nuts'?
RELAX, Haters...., just playin.
Potatoe, potahtoe. 😎