Was about to take to the shop. Watched this vidoe and did it myself. Mahalo! You saved me a lot of time and cash. I have 160,000 miles on my Ford Raptor 2011. This was the only problem. I know I take care of my engine. But electrical shit I don't know. You helped me so much mahalo 🤙🏾
Thanks for bring us in to your nightmare! It's cool to watch you diagnose these issues. It really helps us understand the thought process you go through.
OMG! Thank you sssooooooo much! My 2012 Ford F-150 turbo eco boost, was misfiring on the 6th cylinder ignition coil, so I changed all the spark plugs and ignition coil’s tried to start it and no go! I then realized that the old ignition coil’s were THREE PRONGS!! And the new coil’s were only TWO PRONGS!!🙈🙈🫣🫣 so I put the old coil’s back in and it STILL NO GO! THEN I found your video! It was the dam fuse! THANK YOU THANK YOU 🙏 😊❤
I carry full fuse kit specifically for those type of fuse in my 10 raptor. Also every oil change I open fuse box and check fuse 27 for burning. I also push down on all the fuses and relays be surprised how the loosen up because of vibrations on the road. Just a habit now to check every oil change . Closing in on 100000 miles on my 2010
You've been "lucky". My '13 f27 didn't make it that far. Fortunately I was in town, youtube gave me clues where to begin checking & I had access to a pair of pliers. NO spare fuses anywhere on board, so I "borrowed" 1 from an UNimportant slot. Ordered the kit from AMAZON, installed it & haven't looked back. Now if it was just that easy to stop the rattling eng. start-up.
Thanks for this video. My dad was stuck at a gas station. Checked the fuel pump fuse it was still good but charred a bit. Replaced the fuse and it fired right up
Bought my 2012 on 2019 with 229k miles. This fuse blew in the first 2 months I owned it couple hundred yards from my driveway. Ironically, a coworker (work at ford assembly in KC), had mentioned fuse 27 issue the same week. So, I pulled the code and went straight to the fuse. Had the wife pull me home with her jeep. Popped a new fuse in it. It started. Pulled it back out and you could see some melting in that fuse receptacle. Bought the retrofit and installed the following weekend. Only real failure I've had out of this truck in almost 3 years. Planning on putting a fuel pump in it when we do cab corners this spring. 275k miles now.
Truely looked like a nightmare! You figured it out and were able to share valuable info with others as a result. Very informative. I love my old truck even more. 😂👍🏼🙂🐶
Thank you sir! Sure enough I pulled Fuse 27 and burned on one side. Ordered a relocation kit and going to pop a 20A in tomorrow to get back driving until the relocation comes. Saved me from dropping the freaking tank!
Funny that you just released this video. I found out about the fuse 27 issue from one of FordTechMaculoco’s videos about a year ago. I didn’t have the fuse socket melted yet on my 2011 platinum with the 5.0, but wanted to put the kit in anyway. Just did it last week. Ford’s instructions should say to cut the THICKER of the two blue and red striped wires! I cut the smaller one and wondered why I had a no start with the small fuse out when I was done. Had to go in and do it over. Anyway, thanks for sharing your troubleshooting story. It sure was an interesting one!
Thanks for all the information. My '14 , SCrew, 5.0 had a good crank, no start, no codes this morning. Already had the Fuse #27 kit, so I installed that (wasn't needed), checked Fuse #78 =ok. My other options, lacking a computer diagnostic tool was Module or Fuel Pump (totally forgot the BCM connector). Easiest to do was Module, that fixed it for me. Tip - drop the spare tire and it is easy to access from below. Thanks again so much for the information. At 200K, planning on the pump replacement soon.
Sent here by Ray as well. Can definitely relate to troubleshooting an issue with only knowing parts of the facts. The proverbial oh yeah. I did that. Great videos
Wow lol. Good shit. Thanks for taking the time to explain your process. I was thinking this was going to just be a fuse 27 relocation video but happy to learn some more important info.
Just had a crank no start issue with my 2014 raptor. Checked the fuse 27 and it had been relocated to slot 70. Fuse was good. Then check fuel pump relay and other fuses, all were good. Ended up picking up a new fuel pump driver module. Fixed my problem. Truck has 153k. Thanks for the video!
Thanks so much for this video. I’ve got the same code after intentionally pulling the fuel pump fuse to turn over the engine without the fuel pump running to distribute some combustion chamber cleaner into the ring grooves. Now have the DTC after replacing the 20a fuel pump fuse that keeps reappearing for some reason. Truck runs fine though. I’ll have a look at the fuel control module in case I stressed it. 👍
I did the relocation kit myself. In the kit gives u a sticker to install on the inside cover of the box to tell you new location of the fuse and no programming necessary. Sucks lack of communication by customer or service writer.
I grew up with the destination of auto mechanics as my goal the whole time. As it turned out it ended up not being. I worked here and there, nothing big. Ended up in construction for the money, on to excavating and my own business etcetc. This kind of stuff you guys work on would make me hate being a mechanic in today's age. Total respect for guys like you that are up to date on all this new junk. Sent you an email, have you had a chance to look? I know you're a busy guy. Thanks for sharing.
Fuse 27 to Fuse 70 is also another absolute "first modification" to do to these as well. Mine is a 2010 Raptor SVT with 140,000 miles and it was already done before I got it. These puppies can catch fire if not relocated apparently. I enstalled a fire extinguisher too, just in case. Awesome video as always!
Just replaced 6 spark plugs and an ignition coil on my 2016 3.5 EcoBoost. Crank, no start this morning and sporadically since. Will have to check my fuses 👍🏿
Ran into that problem and I openned fuse box and pulled Fuse 27. Looking closely the side towards the back had some melting in the fuse box itself so for about $12.00 from Amazon ordered kit to move fuse 27 to Fuse location 70. Made sure everything was as directed by TSB and it works fine now.
Nice job on that one. Rainman Ray sent me here to this video. Just saw a video on '22 F 350. No keyoff. He could keyoff, vehicle still running however no electronics. Key on procedure to retrieve normal key on electronics. Went through same procedure finally keyoff. Got it to dealer had replace fuse box and PCM. Another '22 F 350 same issue. Truck burned to the ground total loss. May want to keep that in the back of your mind. For your info, vehicle thru no codes.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing. Came looking for info on that Fuse 27 kit and fuel pump drive unit. Good to know and thanks for sharing. 😎🍻 Also only got one key only… trying to fix that by adding remote start kit with the keys and my scanner. 🤓
@@FordBossMe cool. I’ll check it out, cheers. Saw your video on the Dorman fuel senders too… think I’m going to order the Motorcraft one and bin it before fitting it. 🤪
Your nightmare resulted in my truck starting. I appreciate you sharing this video. I had the same issue in my 2014. The only difference is that a 15 AMP was in Fuse 78. I pulled it to look at it, put it back in when I found that it was good, and she started right up. I don't know why pulling and reinstalling a good fuse would have that result. I ran into this the other day when she would crank but not start. Later, she stared on her own. Problems that go away by themselves tend to come back by themselves. Any ideas?
I have a 2012 f150 3.7 ,,,, the starter turns the engine, No fire had new coil pacs and plugs replaced. Still no fire, then smelt raw gas looked around engine for leak, turned out leaking from exhaust pipe. I bought the fuse reroute haven’t installed it yet. Going to check fuse 78 and the connection at passenger side compartment, will let you know what I find out, thank you for your help.
Just swapped a Ford reman 6.2 into a 2010 Raptor. Truck ran when I pulled it into the bay. Went to fire up new motor today and it cranks like crazy but won't start. I have no power to any coils. Tomorrow's another day. As an aside, I have a 2012 Ford Raptor with a Whipple on it. I've owned it for years. Was in Baja a couple years ago driving on the highway and the truck just died and everything went dead. Luckily it was at the top of a hill. Coasted about a mile down into this little Mexican village. Hours later I finally discovered that one of my coils had blown internally. So every time I put a new 20amp fuse in 78 and turned the key the new fuse would blow.
I have same symptoms on a 13 f150. Had all the signs of bad fuel pump pigtail and fuse. We did the relocate replaced with fuel pump and sent customer in his way. Next day it doesn’t start waits a few mins it cranks up. Same thing next day. He brings it back to me everything checks out. Except I get 12v for 3 seconds then goes to like 6v at fuel pump. I’m assuming that’s normal due to reaching fuel pressure and waiting for engine to crank. New fpdm new fp relocation kit. No codes other than o2 rich. It did have a pats code but said no message. Any ideas?
I have an 09 5.4 that recently cranked but no start. Several times cranked but no start then out of the blue started. Same thing repeated with crank and no start then bam it started. It did not throw a code. I don’t work on cars for a living so I just decided to see what was prevalent on TH-cam for this problem. I saw at least 4 different videos on the fuel pump driver so I decided to change it out $60. So far it has started every time for 8 starts throughout my day. I think it’s it’s fixed 🙏
Thank You for sharing this info. My 2010 4.6L starting to give me problems. fuse 27 burnt contact but not blown making intermitten no start with no codes.
Look at my other videos in the library make sure you Google your year of your truck with F-150 no start and you'll see all my videos this is not the only video
Great video, however, have a question. I got a 2012 Raptor. It would crank but not start until about the third time. Sometimes I am lucky and starts right up, other times takes over 5 attempts. Both cold starts and soon after I’ve driven it. Took it to the dealership and they said it was the battery, so changed it, but still doing the same. Fuses are fine. Wonder what it could be? Fuel pump maybe? Dealership my side are terrible.
Have you checked all of them will start videos for the 2010 to 2014 F-150 that I have shown because there's multiple things that it could be especially the passenger side kick panel fuse box connector that comes undone or the fuel pump driver module in the rear above the crossmember
I've changed fuses(27&78), the canister valve(under truck, by drivers door), fuel purge valve(top backside of engine), drivers control module(by the spare tire) and still just cranks and no start... Help 🙃 Any ideas...??
Have a crank no start ? Did the relocation and replaced the fuel pump module , Inspected the BCM seems fine . Bypassed together on module wiring 7-8 and 1-5 if I recall . Fuel pumps starts and stays running but still no start , Any ideas ?? Baffled Totally ?
Thanks for the video and the good info! My '13 Roush supercharged Raptor sputters when I give it more than like quarter throttle, no matter what gear it's in. 70k miles, no check engine codes. I wondered if it could be related to fuse 27, but am wondering what you think? Have you encountered my type of problem before?
So replacing that fuel pump driver module. Will it set off the security system? Hoping it won't. I also only habe one key. Mine is a 2010 and does have fuse box up front.
I was 3 hours from home and trying to troubleshoot a no start with “starting system fault” on the dash fuse 27 wasn’t blown or burnt, but broke when I pulled it out. Ended up pulling the radio fuse from the passenger side and fired right up, drove to the closest auto parts store to get a multi pack of fuses.
Those used car buyers at the dealership should be deducting the cost for a second key if the truck comes in with only one key as it sounds like they are sold new with two keys. If so, the new owner shouldn't have to spring for a second key to have it serviced as that second key is a needed part. So, my opinion would be...all used vehicles traded in and then put on the lot for resale need to have two keys as standard procedure and the cost of the 2nd key taken from the trade in value since its incomplete. Maybe Ford could simply design their fuse boxes to be more rugged and the BCM problem was created by Ford, not the folks bumping their feet of the trim panel. For the money charged on these trucks...none of this should exist.
@@FordBossMe If people are "Pushing" on that trim panel, it's not Fords fault but I can understand feet bumping into it or various items could slide left to right while in transport. "Bumping" was considered because it would be prudent to figure that vs. intentional abuse which is not your normal activity.
Mines a 2014 f150 v6 and I’m having this issue this morning and I just notice that where my fuse number 78 20 should be there’s a 15 in there is that not right?
I haven't seen you cover this. I have some very light foaming in coolant reservoir in a 2018 F150 5.0. No bubbles or sludge it almost looks like the coolant is clumping together if you look at from the bottom of the reservoir. not consuming any coolant, level looks good. any assistance on this would be greatly appreciated.
I got an issue with my 2013 F-150 ecoboost. Low oil pressure popped up and the truck turned off. Only code it gave is P0627. Changed the fprm and nothing. Cranks won’t start
I have a 2009 Ford F-150 and I have the fuel pump checked , Bcm checked , fuel pump module checked , fuse 27 checked , starter good , battery good and it’s still not starting
@@FordBossMe my issue is fuel pump Driver module had a melted fuse, but it wasn’t blown could not hear the fuel pump ,replace the fuse still no start then replaced fuel pump driver module, truck fired right up. I could also hear the fuel pump once I replaced the module. Thank you for your informative videos.👍🏻🍻ps this happened at 203,000 miles
I have a customers 2013 raptor fuses ok replaced fuel pump and fuel pump module and ecm, still get a 5 sec crank and run then dies if i bypass fuel pump module itl run no problem but ive replaced fuel pump module 3 times and still cant figure out why it kills it im stumped any ideas
Did you check all my points of check for np start - I have several videos You need to inspect the harness along the frame Really Good also need to load test the wires leaving the module to the pump and possibly from the pump to the pcm Are there any codes present in the computer
It's the piece that goes right next to the seat you have to pull off the bottom plastic piece and then pull off the plastic piece that snaps inward next to the side of the seat and then it's right behind it
Please hi. I have a 2011 f150 lariat. 5.0, all of a sudden has no power. Nothing. Changed the battery that is all! Please help with any info! Thanks. Won't even crank, but key will turn.
Well if all you did was change the battery you left something unplugged or you waited too long and something lost programming you need to look at my all of my videos on the no starts
@@FordBossMe Thanks champ. I will do. I'll do the fuel pump module exchange and the 27 fuse relocation this week coming up. I installed replacement battery right away by the way. Will get back soon. Take care.
@@FordBossMe The BCM connectors were fine. I'm gonna take a chance and guess it's the fuel pump module. Hopefully I can get this fixed. Again, thanks for the videos!
I have a 2014 fl50 with a crank no start issue, I changed out fuse #27 and 70 and I still have the same problem .. No codes showing , complete nightmare..I'm in the process of getting the fuse modification done and the fuel moderator changed 😮
Yeah that's because the gas gauges in these things are not accurate and you should never be running your truck down to 10 miles to empty anyway you should never go lower than a quarter tank
Man o man....I am no idiot but I rarely mess with the electrics on a modern vehicle. A 20 cent fuse is the issue here. Folks do rely on diag through the computer a lot but they need to use brains like you did.
I have a 2013 f 150 5.0. Ran flawless until a month ago. Tried to start after sitting in driveway for a couple of weeks. Long crank then cough and chugged and started. Ran fine. Same thing on next start. Cleaned maf sensor, then crank NO start. Installed new maf sensor, nothing. Checked #27 fuse. Slightly dis colored, replaced. Nothing. Removed plugs, had spark but were wet with fuel. Ok, spark and fuel. Replaced maf sensor with oem. Started up but apparently had to blow out raw fuel from previous cranking. All this no code. After running 02 sensor bank 1 rich code. Duh. Drove to repair shop. Diagnosed fuel pump pressure regulator. Long story short, I now have a new maf sensor (3rd one) fuel pump, fuel pump control module, fuel air ratio sensor (2) new spark plugs and a crankshaft position sensor. I now have a truck that starts hard, runs rich and gets 8 miles to the gallon.?????
@@FordBossMe Don't know about fuel trim, guy said he cleaned throttle body. There is a new sensor attached to it , but I don't know what it is . He also said that it wouldn't take a reprogramming (needed after cps). I'm going to get a fuse relocation kit, then maybe off to the dealer
Just watched a video about resetting the computer after cleaning the throttle body. Disconnecting the neg. Battery cable, then jumping the positive to the loose negative. (Fordtechmackuloco) Is this ok ? I don't need to add a computer to my long list of parts, thanks
I have don the same thing before lost my butt because customer did not tell me he removed fuses did not look at any other fuses in box except fuel spot.
Here's where my Mechanical skills fall short. I don't have the proper tools for it anyway but I woulda got frustrated and replaced all Fuses and Relays and then do all Modules. I can rebuild a Engine but i don't like the electrical part.
I hate to be this way man but if you don't start taking more accountability for what you need to get done and waiting on other people to do it for you sometimes things in life don't happen and I'm just telling you this from one brother to another you could have taken care of this on your own by just doing a simple Google search
my 2012 failed to start three or four times last year. i finally found the relocatiom kit problem and bought at dealer. Fortunatly it start long enough for my Porsche mechanic put it in. You would think FORD would cover this screw up a design problem ..... no way, what bull sh.t.
i see alot of electrical problems and most are due to what i call low yield wiring ! you will see this especially on headlamp pigtails and i see this alot when fuel pumps start drawing more amps ! this smaller gauge wiring is also hard relays and will cause alot of hard to diagnose intermittent problems !
@@jacksmith2315 ive done alot of upgrading but it seems to be a never ending battle but its worth it ! i had a fleet of ford and international hd trucks and they all got charging system wiring upgrades before they even hit the road for the first time !
@@scottymoondogjakubin4766 i worked for an hvac company with 60+ vehicles as a fleet mechanic. Most of the vehicles were e250s. Those werent too bad with electrical issues. The chevys were much worse, and jus being in the field for so long doing side jobs, my own cars, workin at other shops, ive seen a lot of cars/problems that could have been avoided with better wiring like thicker guage or better grounds.
That sucks, not sure how you guys get paid but there’s no way to be able to bill all the shop time you put into that job, not only do you need to have your game on as a technician,you also need to be a detective too. It’s like you gotta dust the entire truck for prints to see what they have messed with and not told you about.
My 14 w/5.0 chooses to not start randomly n nothing seems to work except a blast of start fluid while turning over. No codes ever n no answers from any one. Drop it off n nothing found. Getting ready to trash this efen truck. Otherwise I luv it but so not dependable
@@FordBossMe I’ve looked at all four probabilities tho I don’t have any meters all looks good. #27 is relocated. It seems like after shutting it off fuel pressure is lost n with the limited cranking due to ? Safety feature cranking stopsn if I could crank longer it might start. No pressure regulator available so I’m guessing doesn’t have one. Any other ideas other than a meter to check continuity’s ? 135k miles to which I’ve put on 10k since owning.
No, you shouldn't lose your ass because the owner should get charged for it all. The reason I say that is because I've been there done that and its the only way a customer seems to learn!
Oh im sure the customer will be charged for it. But most dealerships pay techs flat rate. $160 for diag, tech gets a %. Then repairs if it says the job takes 3 hrs the tech gets paid 3hr whether it takes him 2 hrs or 4 hrs/no matter how long it takes him he still gets paid 3 hrs. So ya hes losing his ass on this one. The dealership isnt.
@@jacksmith2315 Unfortunately I have yet to find an honest dealership. There wasn't any when I was turning ranches and I'm not impressed with the dealerships in the town I live in now. I have yet to see a dealership appreciate their mechanics. I hope Ford Boss Me has a better situation!
@@billmonroe8826 ya its tough to find a good dealership. Out of the 5 ford dealers around here only 2 are good. They are both smaller family run dealerships. Its the bigger ones that are the worst rip offs. But its not the techs its management
this is like watching Dr House lol Everybody lies! when i use to work on guns, i usually just tell my customers to simply put every thing back together if you can, if not, bring ALL PARTS INVOLVED and please tell me what was the original issue that prompt you to do such a thing
you can't always blame the customers.... whenever i drop my car off for service, i tell them what i have done.... the person taking my keys acts like they could care less what i tell them....
Well hey when the dealer chargers 160 for 2 seconds of diag even just to check codes, or check the front end, you make out. Then you got situations like this. Sometimes you win some, sometimes you lose some. In this situation i feel bad for the techs especially when they are flat rate. You just worked what you said half the day on this to make what, 50 bucks. I never feel bad for the dealer cause they screw enough ppl over for diag they more than make up for it. Even an experienced tech like yourself that knows all the things to check for, you never know what someone else did n that cost you half the day. The dealer should kick in something for you/flat rate guys ina situation like this cause you just lost half the day. Flat rate on repairs is one thing but for diag its a whole other ball game. Especially when someone not qualified was messing with it. But nope, theyll most likely say you should have known better and checked the fuses...all of them. Not just the common one. One of the many reason i hate flat rate for diag. But more often they make out like when I got 2018 fusion titanium, charged me for diag when they never even diaged. Oh you need to rebuild the transmission. Ya i know, thats why its here, whats wrong with it? Idk we have to take it apart to find out. We cant get to it for 2 months because we have 1 trans tech and he has 23 trans in front of you so you should prob take it to another dealer. It will be under warranty but we cant submit to warranty until we know what it is (this i know and understand why, i worked at bmw). Still charged me. Charged me for something i told them, and they never even diaged it. $160 for them to drive it. They wouldnt even try to do a relearn so i at least paid for them to do something. They're thieves. Obvi its not the techs, its the service writers/management. They should have never charged me since all they didnt figure anything out/never diaged and all they did was drive it, and they told me to bring it somewhere else.
I don't know what you've experienced but we don't do that stuff where I work if it's a quick look we typically just fix it for the customer real quick as long as they buy the part maybe charge them a half hour labor and nothing more so don't label me with what your experiences that's not the right thing to do please do better
@@FordBossMe i think you should read it again because i clearly said its the service writers and or management, not the techs, and a situation like you were in i feel bad for the techs cause they lose their ass so they should kick something in for you cause you spent half the day doin a diag they charge 160 so you make basically nothing for all that time you have into it. Ive worked in dealerships i know how they work. Its not the techs fault.
@@FordBossMe most of the dealerships around here are brutal. Like i said they charged $160 just to drive the car and never even diaged it because they didnt open up the trans and told me to take it somewhere else because they were so backed up and still charged the $160 and all they did was drive it. Theres a few ford dealers around here and 2 out of the 5 are 6 are reasonable but they are further away and always booked. The closer ones are the ones that never help you out and always get you like they did in the situation above. But again...that has nothing to do with the techs.
@@jacksmith2315 yeah I understand what you're saying man some of it still rubs me the wrong way because it almost seems as if it could be implied that that's what I do
@@jacksmith2315 it is what it is sorry I can't spend more time responding I just don't have time honestly 12:30 at night and I've got literally hundreds of comments and questions today that I can't even respond to everything
Well if you ever need anything from me just let me know I'm the Ford guy I'm not begging people to be here and I'm always willing to help anybody..... my content is not everybody's cup of tea but I'm also not here to kiss anybody's ass
You got cash app 🎉
$FordBossMe
That's my cash app
Thanks bro, about to get into it right now. I really appreciate you taking your time to share this wisdom with us.
It was 27. It wasn't blown, just melted and too weird to work. Relocation kit on way, but truck is working fine with fuse replacement. Thank you!
Was about to take to the shop. Watched this vidoe and did it myself. Mahalo! You saved me a lot of time and cash. I have 160,000 miles on my Ford Raptor 2011. This was the only problem. I know I take care of my engine. But electrical shit I don't know. You helped me so much mahalo 🤙🏾
Thanks for bring us in to your nightmare! It's cool to watch you diagnose these issues. It really helps us understand the thought process you go through.
OMG! Thank you sssooooooo much!
My 2012 Ford F-150 turbo eco boost, was misfiring on the 6th cylinder ignition coil, so I changed all the spark plugs and ignition coil’s tried to start it and no go!
I then realized that the old ignition coil’s were THREE PRONGS!! And the new coil’s were only TWO PRONGS!!🙈🙈🫣🫣 so I put the old coil’s back in and it STILL NO GO!
THEN I found your video! It was the dam fuse!
THANK YOU THANK YOU 🙏 😊❤
Yvw
I carry full fuse kit specifically for those type of fuse in my 10 raptor. Also every oil change I open fuse box and check fuse 27 for burning. I also push down on all the fuses and relays be surprised how the loosen up because of vibrations on the road. Just a habit now to check every oil change . Closing in on 100000 miles on my 2010
You've been "lucky". My '13 f27 didn't make it that far.
Fortunately I was in town, youtube gave me clues where to begin checking & I had access to a pair of pliers.
NO spare fuses anywhere on board, so I "borrowed" 1 from an UNimportant slot.
Ordered the kit from AMAZON, installed it & haven't looked back.
Now if it was just that easy to stop the rattling eng. start-up.
Where can i find these back up fuse kit. Share link please i have a 14 ecoboost
Thanks for this video. My dad was stuck at a gas station. Checked the fuel pump fuse it was still good but charred a bit. Replaced the fuse and it fired right up
Glad it helped
Great job! You bounced and bounced all over the truck from front to back to find the issue! Well done!
Damn..that was a deep rabbit hole.
Great Video.
Found you from a Rainman Video.
Very informative.
Thank you.
Yvw and thanks for being here
Stuff like this is hellish but incredibly rewarding once you solve it.
Bought my 2012 on 2019 with 229k miles. This fuse blew in the first 2 months I owned it couple hundred yards from my driveway. Ironically, a coworker (work at ford assembly in KC), had mentioned fuse 27 issue the same week. So, I pulled the code and went straight to the fuse. Had the wife pull me home with her jeep. Popped a new fuse in it. It started. Pulled it back out and you could see some melting in that fuse receptacle. Bought the retrofit and installed the following weekend. Only real failure I've had out of this truck in almost 3 years. Planning on putting a fuel pump in it when we do cab corners this spring. 275k miles now.
🎉Thx Man. I’m not auto savy and finding your video was a blessing. Keep up the great work.
Truely looked like a nightmare! You figured it out and were able to share valuable info with others as a result. Very informative. I love my old truck even more. 😂👍🏼🙂🐶
@corey Babcock Hi Corey! 👋🏻 Rich absorbs this stuff like a sponge 🧽 🧠
Thank you sir! Sure enough I pulled Fuse 27 and burned on one side. Ordered a relocation kit and going to pop a 20A in tomorrow to get back driving until the relocation comes. Saved me from dropping the freaking tank!
Funny that you just released this video. I found out about the fuse 27 issue from one of FordTechMaculoco’s videos about a year ago. I didn’t have the fuse socket melted yet on my 2011 platinum with the 5.0, but wanted to put the kit in anyway. Just did it last week. Ford’s instructions should say to cut the THICKER of the two blue and red striped wires! I cut the smaller one and wondered why I had a no start with the small fuse out when I was done. Had to go in and do it over. Anyway, thanks for sharing your troubleshooting story. It sure was an interesting one!
I have like 5 videos on this, been out for awhile.
2010 - 2014 F150 No Start If you google it I pop up
Thanks for all the information. My '14 , SCrew, 5.0 had a good crank, no start, no codes this morning. Already had the Fuse #27 kit, so I installed that (wasn't needed), checked Fuse #78 =ok. My other options, lacking a computer diagnostic tool was Module or Fuel Pump (totally forgot the BCM connector). Easiest to do was Module, that fixed it for me. Tip - drop the spare tire and it is easy to access from below.
Thanks again so much for the information. At 200K, planning on the pump replacement soon.
Five months later mine is acting up again n the fp driver I thought fixed it but only thing left is the fp itself.
Sent here by Ray as well. Can definitely relate to troubleshooting an issue with only knowing parts of the facts. The proverbial oh yeah. I did that. Great videos
Tyvm
Wow lol. Good shit. Thanks for taking the time to explain your process. I was thinking this was going to just be a fuse 27 relocation video but happy to learn some more important info.
Just had a crank no start issue with my 2014 raptor. Checked the fuse 27 and it had been relocated to slot 70. Fuse was good. Then check fuel pump relay and other fuses, all were good. Ended up picking up a new fuel pump driver module. Fixed my problem. Truck has 153k. Thanks for the video!
Yvw
Five months later mine is acting up again - be ware
@@scottwebber652was it the same issue?
Thanks so much for this video. I’ve got the same code after intentionally pulling the fuel pump fuse to turn over the engine without the fuel pump running to distribute some combustion chamber cleaner into the ring grooves. Now have the DTC after replacing the 20a fuel pump fuse that keeps reappearing for some reason. Truck runs fine though. I’ll have a look at the fuel control module in case I stressed it. 👍
I did the relocation kit myself. In the kit gives u a sticker to install on the inside cover of the box to tell you new location of the fuse and no programming necessary. Sucks lack of communication by customer or service writer.
I grew up with the destination of auto mechanics as my goal the whole time. As it turned out it ended up not being. I worked here and there, nothing big. Ended up in construction for the money, on to excavating and my own business etcetc. This kind of stuff you guys work on would make me hate being a mechanic in today's age. Total respect for guys like you that are up to date on all this new junk. Sent you an email, have you had a chance to look? I know you're a busy guy. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Rich, great inside knowledge. You da Boss!
Fuse 27 to Fuse 70 is also another absolute "first modification" to do to these as well. Mine is a 2010 Raptor SVT with 140,000 miles and it was already done before I got it. These puppies can catch fire if not relocated apparently. I enstalled a fire extinguisher too, just in case.
Awesome video as always!
Just replaced 6 spark plugs and an ignition coil on my 2016 3.5 EcoBoost. Crank, no start this morning and sporadically since. Will have to check my fuses 👍🏿
Hi, Ray sent me your way. Look forward to seeing your work.
👋
Also here because of Ray.
Ditto! 😂
People do this sh1t all the time. They omit important information and make you figure it out. Im glad you caught it dough.
Ran into that problem and I openned fuse box and pulled Fuse 27. Looking closely the side towards the back had some melting in the fuse box itself so for about $12.00 from Amazon ordered kit to move fuse 27 to Fuse location 70. Made sure everything was as directed by TSB and it works fine now.
Thanks!
Sounds like a fuel pump! 🎉
Good job nailing it down
Good video bro. I admit I give up on working on these new vehicles other then basic stuff. I just take it to the dealership.
Thank you for sharing. Greatly appreciated.
Nice job on that one. Rainman Ray sent me here to this video. Just saw a video on '22 F 350. No keyoff. He could keyoff, vehicle still running however no electronics. Key on procedure to retrieve normal key on electronics. Went through same procedure finally keyoff. Got it to dealer had replace fuse box and PCM. Another '22 F 350 same issue. Truck burned to the ground total loss. May want to keep that in the back of your mind. For your info, vehicle thru no codes.
So the fuse box is a common issue on the newer Super Duties because of where they are located and I'll actually do a video on this for you
@@FordBossMe Thanks
Interesting. Thanks for sharing. Came looking for info on that Fuse 27 kit and fuel pump drive unit. Good to know and thanks for sharing. 😎🍻 Also only got one key only… trying to fix that by adding remote start kit with the keys and my scanner. 🤓
You look in the library I actually have a relocation kid video
@@FordBossMe cool. I’ll check it out, cheers. Saw your video on the Dorman fuel senders too… think I’m going to order the Motorcraft one and bin it before fitting it. 🤪
Wow, What a great chase lol Great job👌🏼
Your nightmare resulted in my truck starting. I appreciate you sharing this video. I had the same issue in my 2014. The only difference is that a 15 AMP was in Fuse 78. I pulled it to look at it, put it back in when I found that it was good, and she started right up. I don't know why pulling and reinstalling a good fuse would have that result. I ran into this the other day when she would crank but not start. Later, she stared on her own. Problems that go away by themselves tend to come back by themselves. Any ideas?
I have a 2012 f150 3.7 ,,,, the starter turns the engine, No fire had new coil pacs and plugs replaced. Still no fire, then smelt raw gas looked around engine for leak, turned out leaking from exhaust pipe. I bought the fuse reroute haven’t installed it yet. Going to check fuse 78 and the connection at passenger side compartment, will let you know what I find out, thank you for your help.
Great video and information as always. Keep up the great work 👍
Question have a 2013f150 was cranking no start anyway replaced fuel pump driver starts 🎉but now a wrench came on dash🤦
You better charge that guy!!! 💵💵💵
Where I can find the yellow gun that you use to trace the signal or the name of it s.
Just swapped a Ford reman 6.2 into a 2010 Raptor. Truck ran when I pulled it into the bay. Went to fire up new motor today and it cranks like crazy but won't start. I have no power to any coils. Tomorrow's another day. As an aside, I have a 2012 Ford Raptor with a Whipple on it. I've owned it for years. Was in Baja a couple years ago driving on the highway and the truck just died and everything went dead. Luckily it was at the top of a hill. Coasted about a mile down into this little Mexican village. Hours later I finally discovered that one of my coils had blown internally. So every time I put a new 20amp fuse in 78 and turned the key the new fuse would blow.
I have same symptoms on a 13 f150. Had all the signs of bad fuel pump pigtail and fuse. We did the relocate replaced with fuel pump and sent customer in his way. Next day it doesn’t start waits a few mins it cranks up. Same thing next day. He brings it back to me everything checks out. Except I get 12v for 3 seconds then goes to like 6v at fuel pump. I’m assuming that’s normal due to reaching fuel pressure and waiting for engine to crank. New fpdm new fp relocation kit. No codes other than o2 rich. It did have a pats code but said no message. Any ideas?
I have an 09 5.4 that recently cranked but no start. Several times cranked but no start then out of the blue started. Same thing repeated with crank and no start then bam it started. It did not throw a code. I don’t work on cars for a living so I just decided to see what was prevalent on TH-cam for this problem. I saw at least 4 different videos on the fuel pump driver so I decided to change it out $60. So far it has started every time for 8 starts throughout my day. I think it’s it’s fixed 🙏
Good Job thanks keep it up
Thank You for sharing this info. My 2010 4.6L starting to give me problems. fuse 27 burnt contact but not blown making intermitten no start with no codes.
Look at my other videos in the library make sure you Google your year of your truck with F-150 no start and you'll see all my videos this is not the only video
They need to make vehicles the way they did years ago.
Great video, however, have a question. I got a 2012 Raptor. It would crank but not start until about the third time. Sometimes I am lucky and starts right up, other times takes over 5 attempts. Both cold starts and soon after I’ve driven it. Took it to the dealership and they said it was the battery, so changed it, but still doing the same. Fuses are fine. Wonder what it could be? Fuel pump maybe? Dealership my side are terrible.
Have you checked all of them will start videos for the 2010 to 2014 F-150 that I have shown because there's multiple things that it could be especially the passenger side kick panel fuse box connector that comes undone or the fuel pump driver module in the rear above the crossmember
If he changed location of fuel pump relay he surely would have looked at that fuse, probably done by original owner and this guy got it
No that's not what happened I told you what happened in the video you can't change the story up to be what you want
@FordBossMe so the now owner bought the truck and changed fuel pump relay to different spot and didn't check to see if it was out
I've changed fuses(27&78), the canister valve(under truck, by drivers door), fuel purge valve(top backside of engine), drivers control module(by the spare tire) and still just cranks and no start...
Help 🙃
Any ideas...??
Would replacing the 20 amp microfuse with larger 20 amp fuse work without doing fuse 27 relocation kit ??? Just a thought ....
Yes
Wow. All fuse boxes should have spare fuses on the lid
Most of them do. I cant remember ever seeing one that didnt. Its even marked out on the lid the location of the spares
Where do I buy these fuses?
Have a crank no start ? Did the relocation and replaced the fuel pump module , Inspected the BCM seems fine . Bypassed together on module wiring 7-8 and 1-5 if I recall . Fuel pumps starts and stays running but still no start , Any ideas ?? Baffled Totally ?
Sorry 1 to 5. And 4 to 8 on module plug to activate fuel pump .
Did you check the Ignition coil fuse and did you check the connectors on the bcm passenger side foot well
@@FordBossMe Checked all the fuses and relays ? Was unable to detach the connector on the bcm passenger side . So am assuming it’s good and tight ?
Awesome my bro we really appreciate your time and effort thank you so much 🙏
Excellent video
Thanks for the video and the good info! My '13 Roush supercharged Raptor sputters when I give it more than like quarter throttle, no matter what gear it's in. 70k miles, no check engine codes. I wondered if it could be related to fuse 27, but am wondering what you think? Have you encountered my type of problem before?
Sounds to me like you got an ignition issue going on or a fuel delivery issue going on and if it's starting and running it's definitely not the fuse
So replacing that fuel pump driver module. Will it set off the security system? Hoping it won't. I also only habe one key. Mine is a 2010 and does have fuse box up front.
It could but I doubt it just don't jar the truck to much
How can u hear the f p hum with the chimes goin at the same time ?
Have to be good enough
I was 3 hours from home and trying to troubleshoot a no start with “starting system fault” on the dash fuse 27 wasn’t blown or burnt, but broke when I pulled it out. Ended up pulling the radio fuse from the passenger side and fired right up, drove to the closest auto parts store to get a multi pack of fuses.
I'm glad it worked out for you
As Vehcor always ends up saying, "Somebody's been here before."
Those used car buyers at the dealership should be deducting the cost for a second key if the truck comes in with only one key as it sounds like they are sold new with two keys. If so, the new owner shouldn't have to spring for a second key to have it serviced as that second key is a needed part. So, my opinion would be...all used vehicles traded in and then put on the lot for resale need to have two keys as standard procedure and the cost of the 2nd key taken from the trade in value since its incomplete.
Maybe Ford could simply design their fuse boxes to be more rugged and the BCM problem was created by Ford, not the folks bumping their feet of the trim panel. For the money charged on these trucks...none of this should exist.
I never said it was the people's fault and I specified PUSHING into the cover
Where did you come up with bumping?
@@FordBossMe If people are "Pushing" on that trim panel, it's not Fords fault but I can understand feet bumping into it or various items could slide left to right while in transport. "Bumping" was considered because it would be prudent to figure that vs. intentional abuse which is not your normal activity.
I am in the market for a 6.2L. Many have a sticker on the box for that repair. Maybe a good idea to PM that driver on a used truck.
Mines a 2014 f150 v6 and I’m having this issue this morning and I just notice that where my fuse number 78 20 should be there’s a 15 in there is that not right?
It should be a 20amp i believe look in your owners manual
I haven't seen you cover this. I have some very light foaming in coolant reservoir in a 2018 F150 5.0. No bubbles or sludge it almost looks like the coolant is clumping together if you look at from the bottom of the reservoir. not consuming any coolant, level looks good. any assistance on this would be greatly appreciated.
They almost all do this eventually, you need to flush the system
@@FordBossMe ok, appreciate it.
I got an issue with my 2013 F-150 ecoboost. Low oil pressure popped up and the truck turned off. Only code it gave is P0627. Changed the fprm and nothing. Cranks won’t start
It's wiring issue at the fuel tank connections or the fuel pump driver module or a fuse
Replaced fuse, replaced driver module, can’t see any wiring problems. Guess I’m going to drop the tank and change fuel pump.
Why is there not a recall on the problem
I have a 2009 Ford F-150 and I have the fuel pump checked , Bcm checked , fuel pump module checked , fuse 27 checked , starter good , battery good and it’s still not starting
Did you check fuel pump driver module
My 20amp fuse in slot 27 was melted, but not blown, and I have a crank, but no start situation
Watch all my videos on this there is an answer in them
@@FordBossMe my issue is fuel pump Driver module had a melted fuse, but it wasn’t blown could not hear the fuel pump ,replace the fuse still no start then replaced fuel pump driver module, truck fired right up. I could also hear the fuel pump once I replaced the module. Thank you for your informative videos.👍🏻🍻ps this happened at 203,000 miles
I have a customers 2013 raptor fuses ok replaced fuel pump and fuel pump module and ecm, still get a 5 sec crank and run then dies if i bypass fuel pump module itl run no problem but ive replaced fuel pump module 3 times and still cant figure out why it kills it im stumped any ideas
Did you check all my points of check for np start - I have several videos
You need to inspect the harness along the frame Really Good also need to load test the wires leaving the module to the pump and possibly from the pump to the pcm
Are there any codes present in the computer
I need your help!! Where could I locate the fuel pump driver module on a 2017 Lincoln MKZ 2.0L
Everybody needs my help give me a second let me look
Everybody needs my help give me a second let me look
Left rear c pillar lower trim by the door
It's the piece that goes right next to the seat you have to pull off the bottom plastic piece and then pull off the plastic piece that snaps inward next to the side of the seat and then it's right behind it
Please hi. I have a 2011 f150 lariat. 5.0, all of a sudden has no power. Nothing. Changed the battery that is all! Please help with any info! Thanks. Won't even crank, but key will turn.
Well if all you did was change the battery you left something unplugged or you waited too long and something lost programming you need to look at my all of my videos on the no starts
@@FordBossMe Thanks champ. I will do. I'll do the fuel pump module exchange and the 27 fuse relocation this week coming up. I installed replacement battery right away by the way. Will get back soon. Take care.
How do i send you some money!!! Just found my fuse was completely burned up and destroyed.
Thank you so much
venmo.com/u/conrep86
cash.app/$FordBossMe
I hope this works. Replaced the fuse and still nothing. This was the only video I found that was something other than fuse 27. Going to try now
I have like four videos on this so make sure you look in the library for F-150 no start videos
@@FordBossMe The BCM connectors were fine. I'm gonna take a chance and guess it's the fuel pump module. Hopefully I can get this fixed. Again, thanks for the videos!
I have a 2014 fl50 with a crank no start issue, I changed out fuse #27 and 70 and I still have the same problem .. No codes showing , complete nightmare..I'm in the process of getting the fuse modification done and the fuel moderator changed 😮
I have 4 videos on f150 crank no start in the library
Google this -
Ford Boss Me f150 No Start
You didn't see them all yet
2010 f150 Xl dash says 10 miles to empty but at a slant in driveway (reverse or forward) truck fails to start until I add more gas. (3-5 gallons )
Yeah that's because the gas gauges in these things are not accurate and you should never be running your truck down to 10 miles to empty anyway you should never go lower than a quarter tank
Man o man....I am no idiot but I rarely mess with the electrics on a modern vehicle. A 20 cent fuse is the issue here. Folks do rely on diag through the computer a lot but they need to use brains like you did.
I got a 2012 and it shakes when put in reverse or drive. Or at a stop light I got excessive crank issues at a loss here
Sounds like ignition coils and tune up time
I have a 2013 f 150 5.0. Ran flawless until a month ago. Tried to start after sitting in driveway for a couple of weeks. Long crank then cough and chugged and started. Ran fine. Same thing on next start. Cleaned maf sensor, then crank NO start. Installed new maf sensor, nothing. Checked #27 fuse. Slightly dis colored, replaced. Nothing. Removed plugs, had spark but were wet with fuel. Ok, spark and fuel. Replaced maf sensor with oem. Started up but apparently had to blow out raw fuel from previous cranking. All this no code. After running 02 sensor bank 1 rich code. Duh. Drove to repair shop. Diagnosed fuel pump pressure regulator. Long story short, I now have a new maf sensor (3rd one) fuel pump, fuel pump control module, fuel air ratio sensor (2) new spark plugs and a crankshaft position sensor. I now have a truck that starts hard, runs rich and gets 8 miles to the gallon.?????
I don't even know where to begin, how's the throttle body on that.
Did anybody look at the fuel trims
@@FordBossMe Don't know about fuel trim, guy said he cleaned throttle body. There is a new sensor attached to it , but I don't know what it is . He also said that it wouldn't take a reprogramming (needed after cps). I'm going to get a fuse relocation kit, then maybe off to the dealer
Just watched a video about resetting the computer after cleaning the throttle body. Disconnecting the neg. Battery cable, then jumping the positive to the loose negative. (Fordtechmackuloco) Is this ok ? I don't need to add a computer to my long list of parts, thanks
Saw that you are in Dundee Il. I'm in Elgin, want to take this on?
I have don the same thing before lost my butt because customer did not tell me he removed fuses did not look at any other fuses in box except fuel spot.
Here's where my Mechanical skills fall short. I don't have the proper tools for it anyway but I woulda got frustrated and replaced all Fuses and Relays and then do all Modules. I can rebuild a Engine but i don't like the electrical part.
what a pain in the ass....this stuff is why I drive a 2003 F150.
Link to kit ?
Bro all you had to do was just Google it and the kit would have popped up right away
www.ebay.com/itm/265745817899?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A16g8jnyIDR2mqjuzZIUk1bQ70&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=265745817899&targetid=1529493967862&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9021736&poi=&campaignid=19851828444&mkgroupid=145880009014&rlsatarget=aud-1480434320628:pla-1529493967862&abcId=9307249&merchantid=135984250&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_O2lBhCFARIsAB0E8B8D0bZAQIa-HkPz47NUAuBQ8RBkv6jGLll-LQwj54pxlA9pzcmvru4aAhtJEALw_wcB
I hate to be this way man but if you don't start taking more accountability for what you need to get done and waiting on other people to do it for you sometimes things in life don't happen and I'm just telling you this from one brother to another you could have taken care of this on your own by just doing a simple Google search
@@FordBossMe lmao ur on a power trip, It ain’t that serious weirdo
They could of put all the important fuses in one box together!
my 2012 failed to start three or four times last year. i finally found the relocatiom kit problem and bought at dealer. Fortunatly it start long enough for my Porsche mechanic put it in. You would think FORD would cover this screw up a design problem ..... no way, what bull sh.t.
Lol the DIY cost you some time today Rich.
Indeed
i see alot of electrical problems and most are due to what i call low yield wiring ! you will see this especially on headlamp pigtails and i see this alot when fuel pumps start drawing more amps ! this smaller gauge wiring is also hard relays and will cause alot of hard to diagnose intermittent problems !
Agreed. The gauge wire they use is too thin. Lota times it cant even handle perfect conditions never mind when something goes slightly wrong
@@jacksmith2315 ive done alot of upgrading but it seems to be a never ending battle but its worth it ! i had a fleet of ford and international hd trucks and they all got charging system wiring upgrades before they even hit the road for the first time !
@@scottymoondogjakubin4766 i worked for an hvac company with 60+ vehicles as a fleet mechanic. Most of the vehicles were e250s. Those werent too bad with electrical issues. The chevys were much worse, and jus being in the field for so long doing side jobs, my own cars, workin at other shops, ive seen a lot of cars/problems that could have been avoided with better wiring like thicker guage or better grounds.
@@jacksmith2315 most definitely ! and it doesnt hurt to add some extra grounds it only takes 20 minutes to add 2 or 3. more !
@@scottymoondogjakubin4766 even just making sure the ground contact is good.
Ray says hi and thank you
I appreciate you thank you
Do you find it weird that semperfi mechanic asks his subscribers for money
Ehhh he helps so WHy not?
Plus he doesn't really as he just says if you'd like
That sucks, not sure how you guys get paid but there’s no way to be able to bill all the shop time you put into that job, not only do you need to have your game on as a technician,you also need to be a detective too. It’s like you gotta dust the entire truck for prints to see what they have messed with and not told you about.
My 14 w/5.0 chooses to not start randomly n nothing seems to work except a blast of start fluid while turning over. No codes ever n no answers from any one. Drop it off n nothing found. Getting ready to trash this efen truck. Otherwise I luv it but so not dependable
Start going through the things I showed you here
@@FordBossMe I’ve looked at all four probabilities tho I don’t have any meters all looks good. #27 is relocated. It seems like after shutting it off fuel pressure is lost n with the limited cranking due to ? Safety feature cranking stopsn if I could crank longer it might start. No pressure regulator available so I’m guessing doesn’t have one. Any other ideas other than a meter to check continuity’s ? 135k miles to which I’ve put on 10k since owning.
No, you shouldn't lose your ass because the owner should get charged for it all. The reason I say that is because I've been there done that and its the only way a customer seems to learn!
Oh im sure the customer will be charged for it. But most dealerships pay techs flat rate. $160 for diag, tech gets a %. Then repairs if it says the job takes 3 hrs the tech gets paid 3hr whether it takes him 2 hrs or 4 hrs/no matter how long it takes him he still gets paid 3 hrs. So ya hes losing his ass on this one. The dealership isnt.
@@jacksmith2315 Unfortunately I have yet to find an honest dealership. There wasn't any when I was turning ranches and I'm not impressed with the dealerships in the town I live in now. I have yet to see a dealership appreciate their mechanics. I hope Ford Boss Me has a better situation!
@@billmonroe8826 ya its tough to find a good dealership. Out of the 5 ford dealers around here only 2 are good. They are both smaller family run dealerships. Its the bigger ones that are the worst rip offs. But its not the techs its management
this is like watching Dr House lol
Everybody lies! when i use to work on guns, i usually just tell my customers to simply put every thing back together if you can, if not, bring ALL PARTS INVOLVED and please tell me what was the original issue that prompt you to do such a thing
Believe it or not, the battery could be the issue
you can't always blame the customers.... whenever i drop my car off for service, i tell them what i have done.... the person taking my keys acts like they could care less what i tell them....
Well I didn't really blame anyone I GAVE SCENARIOS if you read the pun
For all I know Santa is the one who did it
@@FordBossMe
oh, i know.... my poor choice of words.... i should have said, "a tech [not you] can't always blame the customer"
Well hey when the dealer chargers 160 for 2 seconds of diag even just to check codes, or check the front end, you make out. Then you got situations like this. Sometimes you win some, sometimes you lose some. In this situation i feel bad for the techs especially when they are flat rate. You just worked what you said half the day on this to make what, 50 bucks. I never feel bad for the dealer cause they screw enough ppl over for diag they more than make up for it. Even an experienced tech like yourself that knows all the things to check for, you never know what someone else did n that cost you half the day. The dealer should kick in something for you/flat rate guys ina situation like this cause you just lost half the day. Flat rate on repairs is one thing but for diag its a whole other ball game. Especially when someone not qualified was messing with it. But nope, theyll most likely say you should have known better and checked the fuses...all of them. Not just the common one. One of the many reason i hate flat rate for diag. But more often they make out like when I got 2018 fusion titanium, charged me for diag when they never even diaged. Oh you need to rebuild the transmission. Ya i know, thats why its here, whats wrong with it? Idk we have to take it apart to find out. We cant get to it for 2 months because we have 1 trans tech and he has 23 trans in front of you so you should prob take it to another dealer. It will be under warranty but we cant submit to warranty until we know what it is (this i know and understand why, i worked at bmw). Still charged me. Charged me for something i told them, and they never even diaged it. $160 for them to drive it. They wouldnt even try to do a relearn so i at least paid for them to do something. They're thieves. Obvi its not the techs, its the service writers/management. They should have never charged me since all they didnt figure anything out/never diaged and all they did was drive it, and they told me to bring it somewhere else.
I don't know what you've experienced but we don't do that stuff where I work if it's a quick look we typically just fix it for the customer real quick as long as they buy the part maybe charge them a half hour labor and nothing more so don't label me with what your experiences that's not the right thing to do please do better
@@FordBossMe i think you should read it again because i clearly said its the service writers and or management, not the techs, and a situation like you were in i feel bad for the techs cause they lose their ass so they should kick something in for you cause you spent half the day doin a diag they charge 160 so you make basically nothing for all that time you have into it. Ive worked in dealerships i know how they work. Its not the techs fault.
@@FordBossMe most of the dealerships around here are brutal. Like i said they charged $160 just to drive the car and never even diaged it because they didnt open up the trans and told me to take it somewhere else because they were so backed up and still charged the $160 and all they did was drive it. Theres a few ford dealers around here and 2 out of the 5 are 6 are reasonable but they are further away and always booked. The closer ones are the ones that never help you out and always get you like they did in the situation above. But again...that has nothing to do with the techs.
@@jacksmith2315 yeah I understand what you're saying man some of it still rubs me the wrong way because it almost seems as if it could be implied that that's what I do
@@jacksmith2315 it is what it is sorry I can't spend more time responding I just don't have time honestly 12:30 at night and I've got literally hundreds of comments and questions today that I can't even respond to everything
Sent here by Ray.
Sorry but you lost me @1:18. Stop waving the camera around so much. It’s nauseating.
Well if you ever need anything from me just let me know I'm the Ford guy I'm not begging people to be here and I'm always willing to help anybody..... my content is not everybody's cup of tea but I'm also not here to kiss anybody's ass
@@FordBossMe It was constructive criticism.
D move selling a car with one key , and that’s normal , not cool.
Customers always lie. Not sure why.