Creality3D Hotend Issue - CR-10 Series, Ender 3, and others
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ส.ค. 2018
- This is a short video about the PTFE Gap issue that causes a plug in the hotend of Creality3D 3D printers that ultimately results in intermittent under extrusion.
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I covered this in my video. It’s the coupling that’s the problem. A good coupling will let you push the PTFE all the way down even when the lock ring is pulled up. Then the good coupling won’t let it back out. The stock coupling on Creality don’t hold the PTFE well enough so it works it’s way out during retraction so your prints slowly get worse.
If it ever comes back. . Take a look at www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831 ;) if you haven’t already lol.
Unscrew the coupler a few turns, then feed in the PTFE and then tighten the coupler. No need to remove the nozzle.
This video is so much better and easier than trying to explain in text on the forums. Good job!
Love the visual. This topic has been covered to death but you did it in a refreshing way. Thanks!
Great video - thanks for cutting away the hardware so that it is so easy to see what the gap looks like!
Fantastic video. I was having problems with under extrusion and after seeing your video i pulled a disk like yours out of the hotend of my Ender 3. Thank you!
Thanks this video was spot on.
Got my CR-10S up and running again.
Absolutely amazing explanation ! thanks a lot for share your knowledge !
I had trouble with my cr10 since new and struggled for ages and gave up. Turns out this was the problem all along. Well done
I must have just been lucky. Through 1000s of printing hours on multiple Creality printers I've never had this problem, I didn't even know this was a thing until I came across this video.
Bonesaw is ready same
What a great video. This must be my problem. I've had deterioration issues with my prints and a strange phenomenon where I cannot retract my filament to change filament, but I can push it through.
Making me push through an extra 20cm of filament or small print to change to a different colour filament.
I knew this was some sort of a block, but I think I'm not clearing out the nozzle properly by putting the PTFE tube back in correctly. So re-creating that same gap, and always causing that block.
nice visual and clear video about this problem. the one I'll point people to with the same problem. I'll probably add 'get new couplers' on top of your sollution though, which is what I'll be doing, because I coincidentally just had the same problem again and I'm fed up with it.
Almost 4 am in the morning and i can't sleep trying to figure out why I can't install my bowden tube correctly despite trying every guide I've found. Thanks for this video because now I finally know why nothing is working and I can finally rest
Check out this video for tips on how to properly reassemble the hot end: th-cam.com/video/4RgYkV9h4N8/w-d-xo.html
Thank you! I’m having a clog issue right now! I ordered a hot end off amazon but I’ll look at my stock one first and save the new one for later.
A truly amazing video!!
You saved my machine from the crusher.:) Thz. Great presentation.
Thanks for making this video awesome cutaway
This fucked me up a whole bed of printed pieces. Thanks for the effort and explanation.
Shoutouts from NWA!
good tip..fixed mine and up and running...thnx man
Thanks that help me a lot on fixing that problem.
Fantastic example!!!! Thank you
Dude.....now I know what I needed to know 3 weeks ago!
This help me fix my jamming issue. I couldn't get pass the first layer. What I did was trim the dirty part of the tube and follow this assembly video. Also did a cold pull after assembly.
Ingenious method of displaying issue! How were you able to cut in half?
If you seat the tube before the nozzle you can achieve a tighter bond between the nozzle and the coupler and the ptfe tube, when the tube pushes back to lock it in place. the only downside is making sure the ptfe tube is cut square to the coupler and not pinched, I have found using a short piece of filament when cutting the tube will stay round and not change the center of the tube weather you use a knife or cutters.
This explains my troubles 👍
Do you think the Titanium Heat Break sold by TH3D would alleviate this issue? Because as I understand
it, it doesn't retain the Heat that the Stainless Steel ones do.
This use to be common on push fit water line connectors. I always held them tight and persuaded it to catch, not that it would work on these...
I put the nozzle tight, then open it 1-2 turns, push the ptfe in, then put the nozzle back in tight. Sometimes i do that from the pneumatic fitting side as well.
Also some nozzles threaded section is too short and you never get it properly tight.
The heatsink itself is also inadequate. better heatsink + full metal throat would make most of this irrelevant as well.
Same problem occurs with short 7mm throats that accept the bowden tube directly into them. Been struggling with that for a week since I can't find 6mm heatsinks that fit the 6mm throats anymore.
Thanks for sharing😀👍
How do you recommend getting the plug out? Remove the ptfe tube and filliment with a cold pull together? Or do you drop the nozzle and push the plug through? I've been getting a lot of dripping plastic after a print before it cools and some stringing. Even with the coupler clips and retraction turned up to 9. Thanks for an interesting and enlightening video btw!
Heat the nozzle to 100°C and remove it. You can pull the plug out with the nozzle or with a pick. Then seat the tube properly and reinstall the nozzle.
Masters of the 3rd Dimension Thanks for the clarification. Love the cut away also.
Tks 4 sharing
Thanks a man!
Nice job, I've been having the same issue with my Ender 3... I leave the nozzle loose, about 2turns.. Then install the tube.. Then , ,when I tighten the nozzzle, it butts right up against the tube... But , occasionally, it screws up..
Mine was perfect from factory, and you can check if yours is too just trying to pull the ptfe tube out of the extruder. If you can't it is OK because that means that they tightened the nozzle against the tube and the teeth inside the coupler bite the tube and can't retract to release it. And be careful to properly assemble the extruder whenever you disassemble it or remove the tube. That is: screw the nozzle to the heating block, then the heat break, insert the cooler and fix it in place with it's screw then unscrew 1 turn the nozzle, insert the ptfe tube until it touches the nozzle and then tighten the nozzle again. This is how mine came from factory and how I assemble it always, never had such a plug. And if you cut the ptfe tube or replace it be sure that the side that's goes inside the extruder is cut 100% straight.
you can't check whether there's a gap between the tube and the nozzle by just trying to pull the tube out since the coupler may be already locked. The only thing you can do is actually try to push the tube in. If it moved, it means there was a gap.
How does this affect printing quality, are there tell tale signs in my finished print jobs I can check for?
mostly underextrusion due to the blockage
@@baschz, Weak parts I assume, and clicking of the extruder? I've been tearing my hair out over this.
I know I'm very late but in case you still need this answered, it'd show up excessive stringing, oozing, and sometimes blobs of molten filament making its way through the threads and onto your print
great !!! thaks!!!
Thanks!
are those jst clips rated to be used on a heating element? If so can you please point me to them.
I hope this fixes my problem. My first 5 prints came out just as expected, but then when I went to print again, it wouldn't extrude and the gear would pop/slip. At first I thought it was my bed leveling. I tried releveling it a few times but that didnt work. I finally took the nozzle off and found one of those blockages. I thought that would fix the problem but when I went to print, it did the same thing. Maybe it created another block while heating? Any ideas?
What connectors do you use for your heater cartridge DuPont there?
If you do get a plug formed, what's the best way to get rid of it?
It's exactly what stopped me from printing in PLA for years. Once I purchased an Ender 5, a Micro Swiss hot end and a Capricorn tube, held the PTFE tube down hard as I pushed the 2 coupling locks on I was finally able to print in PLA. Because of the constant, never ending problems it created beforehand I absolutely hated PLA (never happened with ABS) and refused to use it. I was apparently foolish in saying PLA was an outrageous, unreasonable problem for me because the only reactions & responses I was given were intentionally insulting to me and accused me of things having no relevance to as much. I'm not homosexual but for some reason many used that in their responses to my statement of my problems with PLA. Micro Swiss & Capricorn fixed the PLA issue.
In my e3d v6 the issue is filamnet slightly bulging when retraction and there clogs. What to do?
I also had the same issue on my new ender 3
I'm having oozing from the top of the heat break is this why?
👍👍👍👍👍
is there a better model of hotend?
How do you fix this permanently? Great video by the way, I am having the same problem
David Bradford The easiest way it to remove the nozzle and push the tube in further and pull it back until it's flush. Then reinstall the nozzle. It should stay in place after that.
Masters of the 3rd Dimension thank you very much!
For permanent fix buy a new ptfe coupler that has metal teeth as ender 3 of mine is only plastic press fitting
For permanent fix replace the heat break to an All metal 1.75mm one and be done with this
@@dimanarinull9122 I replaced the OEM with the Micro Swiss all metal and have had nothing but problems (not the only one). It hates retraction past 2mm and some filaments just won't work at all. I'm going back to OEM but using a higher temp tube. Looking right now for a good top coupler.
You been watching Mr. Pete222 ?
Is it 12v or 24v?
Известная проблема, заменил фитинги сразу
just print a sacer for the coupler then it can't move anymore.... i had the same problem on my ender 3 and fixed it with just printing a spacer (on thingiverse, ender3 pressure fitting fix) and it works jut fine now... no more clogs
I even just used the thin zip-ties that come with the printers too, they fit perfectly!
@@RACustoms yep me too! still have no mayor problems with my printer so far (don't want to jinx it) but stil learning with each print as i go on
:)
I'm having the same problem with my MPSMv2
Do you own a lot of printers with Creality hot ends? Yo must because otherwise I call shenanigans on all those similar colored plugs....
Just get a better tube and couplers. Forgot the name of tube but it's a fairly cheap upgrade.
Capricorn
Then some better quality couplers. On top of this issue, people have also had issues with the tube coming out. During retraction. The couplers just don't bite the tube good enough.
Hello sir
terrible design
Just buy a standard genuine Festo coupling instead, the Chinese ones have crappy grippers...Worn out tooling leaving blunt gripper edges in the coupler...Typical Chinese lack of QC.
I had an energy 5 . Problems with hotend and upgrades . The enders are not good printers . They get the most coverage for a cheaply built product. The real good printers dont need 100s of videos on how to constantly fix them. Please stay away from the enders
You been watching Mr.Pete222 ?