Micro Swiss Dual Gear Direct Drive Upgrade For Ender 3 and CR-10 3D Printers
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In this video we take a look at the brand new Dual Gear Direct Drive Drop in Extruder from Micro Swiss. This awesome upgrade is compatible with the Ender 3, Ender 2, CR-10 Machines, Tevo Tornado and any variation or clone of these machines. I show you step by step how to upgrade your printer to this awesome Extruder/Hot End Combo
Find out more or purchase yours here:
store.micro-swiss.com/product...
Install PDF:
cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/121...
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I have had a ton of people asking if this causes you to lose any Z height. I can confirm that the motor is over the X Axis extrusion which allows the printer to print at the max Z height without any problems at all! (No print volume is lost!) 😬
"You never go full z axis" 😬
@@3warsGunsmithing If your asking if your printer will shut off going to higher temps, I doubt it. I upgraded to a Micro Swiss hot-end and I don't remember ever encountering an issue with the Firmware not letting me reach a high temperature. I guess I could be wrong on some models, but would be the first I've heard of it. The limitation is in how hot the materials in the stock hot end can get before melting. Not the firmware.
@@3warsGunsmithing as long as you set your max temp in firmware you are fine, set it 15c above your desired max temp(im guessing 300c) in case of temperature fluctuations. Make sure your thermistor and heater cartridge can handle the high temps as well, I had to upgrade my thermistor to reach 300c, as the stock glass bead thermistor on the Ender3 shouldn't go above 265 I think.
Does yours touch the x axis limiter switch before going past the bed? Mine is too narrow
@@mikeb1596 They cover that in the install instructions. That is why you add offsets to your firmware: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1210/0176/files/Leveling_probe_installed_with_generic_or_Creality_Marlin_Firmware.pdf
Money inbound to you.
I am a mechanical engineer, and when I opened this box of crap I literally shuddered...it was like the innerworkings of a swiss watch, and no tech manual/schematic in the box, almost gave me a stroke. But the link to your video was a godsend.
Thank you for taking the time to make it. You sir, are a steely-eyed missile man.
I just saw this after seeing my Patreon and thinking there must be a mistake. Thank you very much. This is certainly not something that is expected and I really do appreciate your generosity. I am happy that this video was able to help you with upgrading your printer. I will be reaching out to you on Patreon to see if I can send you some stickers! :)
Based on your reaction to what was inside the box. I don't believe you're an engineer at all.
@@dangerous8333 Cool story bro
mechanical engineer my ass lmao, this is far from a difficult install and this video isn't even complete.
For starters, it is pretty cringe he says "tighten as much as possible". Yeah that will certainly not cause some people to strip the soft aluminum threads with the steel bolt.
The main bracket was beautifully machined, any real certified mechanical engineer with experience will appreciate this. Especially if you knew the machining costs.
He even forgot some things, like installing the washer on the last wheel (one with the concentric nut) and the set screw on the gear is meant to be tightened against the flat part of the shaft. Which should be pretty obvious
@@hippcity3168 what in the actual hell are you talking about? Machining costs? Have you never ran an aluminum part? This is day one shit. No internal features or contours, no complex geometry and standard surface finish. That part took 3 operations and cost about $7 to make at scale. And you want to comment on someone elses credentials. When you actually run a part maybe then open your mouth.
I've just upgraded my CR10S with this direct drive and all metal hot end and it's brilliant, this video was a big help in conjunction with the official PDF instructions, thanks for taking the time to do this. For simplicity I've reverted from a fang-style cooling fan back to stock, without any obvious negative effects, although it's made me realise one of the reasons for doing that originally was the way better view of the nozzle when printing! Will have to look out for a fang version that works with this. Noticed the coupling between heater and hot end seems better too - temperature seems to come up much more rapidly and hold incredibly steadily.
Perfect! Mines was shipped on the 16th, and I get the bonus of utilizing that free motor off my ender 3 pro and right onto my Tronxy, so I can now install the dual extruder I've been sitting on for 2 months!:-))!:-)
Thanks for this great video,literally no rush or 5x in the speed. Every items got the chance to show up to let you easily identify them in the kit. In the process of assembling this, I felt the professionalism in the design of every items included in the kit. I've spent dozzens of dolars on some cheap diy kits made in China from Aliexpress before I came to know that Micro Swiss actually designed something really new that will kick the ass of others. Let's find out who is the real terminators. Once again, the lesson is learned. $100 excede the value contained in the kit, saving you tons of time in tweaking the cheaply made diy kits.
I just installed it on my CR1-s-Pro. It was a snap to install and as a long time Titian user who wasn't too sure about a "Cylon" looking object on my printer - I am very impressed. The thought about upgrading a few more printers is causing my budget to ache, but it might be worth it. I'll know more in a hundred hours of use.
This is a GLORIOUS video!!! I was feeling a bit hesitant, even though I've replaced my extruder (this will be my fourth!) and other parts of the printer before... this made it really easy for me!!! Thank you!!!
Thanks for this, really helped me a lot. I did get in a bit of strife when installing the new x-carriage. Didn't realise you'd flipped the machine around and were filming that section of the video from the rear. I installed it backwards, reattached the belt and the went to install the stepper and.. oooff. Had to disassemble, flip it around and re-do it all over again!!! Such fun.
Same here! Built the thing twice, but thats OK
Me too
I watched your video, bought the kit, watched your video again, installed the kit, easy peasy.
just installed it and it seems awesome so smooth
@ModBot Daniel THANK YOU for this video. I have my first Ender 3 Pro that I bought last summer and have been modifying. The Microswiss all metal hotted and direct drive for it have been sitting. Well last week I decided to finally tackle it and after printing off the instructions decided that some of the steps weren't as clear as I'd like. So I did a search and was pleased to see your video on this. As I always like your videos I knew it would be very helpful. And I wasn't disappointed. So thank you for all you do and especially for this video. Now once I watch your video on adjusting the e-step (again) I can finally try printing with TPU. The goal is to print the tires for my Mr. Baddeley 3D printed R2D2.
Thanks for the video. New to printing. Been getting extrusion issues on and off so I got this upgrade for my Ender 3. Just arrived with an SKR board so will be busy upgrading, Again. Removing dampers too
Thank you for this video, it was very helpful. However I noticed a few issues that you might want to address so folks do not get it wrong
1) You did not install the washer on the last wheel. The one with the concentric nut
2) The set screw on the gear is meant to be tightened against the flat part of the shaft
Lots of the Ender 3 steppers don't have a flat, the gear is friction fit.
Some prints to show it off would be nice.
IF YOU HAVE WARPING EDGES AFTER INSTALLING READ THIS!
Just a hint for anyone searching for it. After installing the Microswiss hotend on my ender 3 pro I had to fight severe issues with warping on the print corners on the high side of the Y axis on the print(as in when you look at it from the front, the corners on the right side of the print). I had not been able to fix this properly, but since I installed my own marlin build after the microswiss upgrade to have the stepper settings etc on the default firmware already I spend half a week and 2 dozen prints on figuring this out. The best I have come to is raising the bed temperature to 80C and replace the warping with an elephants foot. Nice. I finally figured out that its the Micro-Swiss nozzle that causes the issue. After installing a stock creality 0.4mm nozzle, the same print went out with stock settings(PLA, 200C Hotend, 60C bed) with no problems. I have not been able to figure out why exactly the micro-swiss nozzle causes warping, but I also have to notice that I get a lot better printing quality on the creality nozzle for the same gcode. @ModBod, if you ever upgrade this guide, please add more emphasis on calibrating the e-steps as well. 130 as suggested by micro-swiss(as a starting point, sure but they kinda also dont put enough emphasis on that in their manual) wasnt enough in my case, 141 works a lot better
You missed the flat washer on the eccentric nut for the bottom V roller wheel.
Did it,(cr-10) also did the Silent board/Dual z and Cr touch from stock..First time messing with any printer mods and it went fine..This video was one of the resources used….🤙
Very nice. I already have the Micros Swiss hot end so it's good to see that you can just buy the extruder and the mounting plate. I especially like that it looks like the stepper motor is over the x-axis so the weight is more centered on the guide wheels. I've always thought the plates with the motor hanging off the front had too much weight cantilevered off the front. I was thinking of getting the Hemera but then my existing motor and extruder would be redundant. This lets me use my existing parts and just buy the parts I need. Wish I had know about this before they were sold out. Hope they get more in stock soon.
They sold out pretty much instantly. I do not think Micro Swiss realized how popular the item would be. I am sure they are working on getting these kits built and individual parts for existing micro swiss users.
Can you make a video how to set the Y and X offset?
Same
You figure this out yet?@@mrkabonster
@@pattygq no I haven’t. I just moved my glass on the build plate like half a cm to the left to stop it printing the waste line off the build plate but I still don’t know what to do about the space I’m missing on the front of the build plate.
@@mrkabonster what fw are you running?
@@pattygq I don’t know. My printer is an old school Ender 3 but I did install a BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V2.0 Control Board like some 3 and a half years ago.
Thanks for the video, i've been looking for a video one this kit. Should be a solid alternative to the Hermera. Please keep us updated on how it prints.
Easy enough. I hit pause a lot, but it was very informative. The routing of the Bowden tube from the new guide to the trolley was the only area in the video where I believe there could be improvement. But even then, a little common sense goes a long way (I didn't have an old Bowden tube to reinstall, I had to cut Capricorn tubing to length, so kind of a special case with no reference point).
It's printing it's first part right now. Upgraded from 0.4mm to 0.6mm at install, and this is slinging some plastic! It's awesome!
Absolutely brilliant guide! Have installed mine following along with you. Just to test it now. Thank you!!!
Hi just wondering what was your reasons of installing this. I'm wanting to upgrade to have a crack at different materials and was just wondering if that was your reason and if so how did it go. Thanks
@@minion9707 hey there. I installed in for the same reason as you're thinking. I wanted to try TPU and it has been far easier so far
@@HuwFerris-John have you ever tried anything other then tpu nylon,carbon,ABS ect and does your prints look up to quality ? cheers
This video was incredibly helpful and well put together. Thanks. The only area I struggled with was installing the filament guide on my Ender 5 Pro as it is in a different place. I would also note that I had to buy new Capricorn tubing as it was impossible to remove it without damaging it. One question - do I need to change my slicer settings to accommodate the Micro Swiss?
Great video. Played this as I installed mine. Very helpful.
what printer did you add it to ?
I have one coming from Tiny Machines. ( In stock as of 1/27) They made up an additioal kit to fit this to my CR10S Pro with BL Touch up grade and Micro Swiss hot end! Those guys are awsome. I'm use to direct drive, and lately have been fighting the retraction settings with the CR10 on some materials. (Most likely me...)
I ordered from them on thursday. Shipped yesterday. Sold out after my purchase so I may have gotten the last one.
There's a flat on the stepper motor shaft. Your grub screw should bear against that flat. In the video, it's off by about 10 degrees.
Yep, I noticed that too.
45? thats like a spot on 90! :P
Wow ... totally CNC’d back plate. Nice.
"You're 10-ply, bud. Give your nuts a tug." - Shoresy
Balls*
You should put the grub screw on the flat side of the motor shaft ...
Hello, thanks for this great video, it has solidified my purchase. Quick question if you have time... Out of curiosity, have you upgraded your cooling system and which one are you using with the new mounting plate?
I will not lie it took me more lik 3-4 hour total to install xD tried to put a stepper motor dampener on the extruder but then u cannot slide it all the way to the left or right so had to disassemble and reassemble all over again, regardless because of your video I did not even have to open the pdf up and it has saved me (believe it or not) time so Thank you so so much for this video keep up the great work!
Awesome tutorial, thanks man!
Subscribed!!! This is perfect. Thank you.
Great instructions! thanks for sharing. Looking forward to upgrading my Tevo Tornado with this kit.
Hey, great video! After watching this for research I ended up binge watching 70% of your videos within a week :P
Quick question, I just bought the kit but I'm concerned about the setting of the home offsets. I have my printer connected to octoprint, will I need to change the home position there as well?
Got mine installed and prints great with PLA...Trying some PETG prints now
Thank you man! Helped me alot!
nice explanation, and good to see it broken down.
thanks
I have same problem have you solved it?
Good guide, very clear and concise
Thank you
Thank you! This was so helpful!!!
Just got mine installing tomorrow on my e3pro
Great video! Any updates or in depth review of this system? Is it worth the price? How does it print PLA and other materials?
Question, I just did this install and love it. What is the best way to purge when you are done...i.e to remove the filament at the end of the day? I have been doing it manually and seems fine
How’s this setup working out for you? I have the hot end already and was looking into doing a direct drive. Do you recommend the MS direct drive or suggest any other setups
13:31 Hello! The video is really good and very detailed. Good job! But I was wondering if squeezing the cable of the cartridge and thermistor between the hotend and the cage it's a good solution. The cable will be bend 90 degrees and in contact with a very hot part. What do you think?
not to be nit picky, but you should align your set screw hole with the flat on the stepper motor shaft. If you don't the shaft could eventually spin free. But thanks so much for the assembly video, it was extremely helpful.
thanks - real easy to follow guide
can you feed the filament straight into the motor and skip the whole feed thing on the side? seem to me that adding and extra tube in 1 more thing that can go wrong so is it possible to remove it all
Works great, but it overshoots on the x axis on the home side, bracket is slightly narrower than stock. Had to put several pieces of tape on the left side so it would contact the x home switch while still over the bed
Top Video. Thank you !
Thanks for the video I ordered mine today. It was sorta like watching “ The Six Million Dollar Man “ just missing the.sound , nanananana nanananana but great video.
Well done video; thank you
Hi. I bought one of the Micro Swiss extruders before I saw your video. I have not installed it yet. Now that you have had it for a while, what kind of results are you getting? Are you still pleased with the extruder? I have not seen any other reviews on TH-cam of the extruder.
the weak point of all extruder, direct or bowden is the contact between gears and filament and this problem it's heavy on flexi filament, in my opinion should be designed a new kind of contact, for example like two metal ribbons , like the cogwheels of a tank, at least 5mm , each one in front of other pushing the filament , what do you think :)
Hi. Thanks for the video. I was wondering if you have tried this setup with Klipper firmware. Would it be "safe" to have this heavier weight for faster speeds and accelerationsof 7000mm/s^2 for an ender 3 with this setup?
Hi! Awesone Video! Thanks for that. Have a question. If I already have the dual gear extruder and the all metal hotend, can I use this to upgrade to direct drive?
Very helpfull - tks a million !!
Hi man, great and very detailed video. Do you think this is good upgrade if I'm planning to start taking 3D printing a side business? I would be mostly printing on demand, but I would like to have a few units of, let's say a GoPro Mount or things like that.
great job its sold out :-)
Great video, very helpful. One suggestion: never tighten small machine screws "as tight as you can". This can result in stripped threads, stripped hex drive, or broken screws.
Especially grub screws! Those bastards are not strong. It needs to be tight enough for sure but not too tight.
Hey there. Followed this step by step. Went to test it on a file that worked previously on my older Cr10s5, and...nothing. Bed and nozzle get up to heat temp...and nothing. Print won't start. Just says "heating...(even tho it's at temp.)
I'm a bit late to the game but can't wait for it to arrive. Do you have an update on your Ender3?
I would not have added the ptfe tube back on (from the old extruder with the 3d printed part) as thats one advantage of direct drive, no friction from ptfe tube. Other than that have you installed a bltouch on this? I just bought this for my sovol SV01 (basically a cr10 clone) and not sure where i can mount it now. replaced the part cooling duct and upgraded the fan so it has a custom shroud i printer for that to fit.
Correct me if i am blind, but you did not list the links to the extruder calibration write up and video you mentioned you would list....
Any recommendations on Speed changes due to the increased weight of the print head? I'm especially having trouble finding recommendations for acceleration and jerk.
I have not had any problems but have considered using anti-seize on my nozzles.
ModBot what retraction setting would you recommend for printing abs with the same setup ever since I upgraded to all MS my prints have been terrible Thanks
belt needs to be a smidge longer after this mod, becouse different spacing(made it work on stock tentioner though), homing is now broken, not goten that far that I have found a fix yet(just mounted this thing), nozzle does not line up over the bed(pushed more forward), unsure if I feal cheated or not.......
The orientation of the stepper side gear.. I've tried it both ways and it doesn't seem to make any difference. Is there a direction to the knurling on the piece?
Either way, I currently have it on back to front, because it's just the last placement I tried, and just finished printing 60 hours of parts for a mask, so I guess it works..
They stress an orientation but it doesn't seem to make a difference.
Can you tell me what size are the acres that’s you replaced with Phillips? The 2 screws that you used to mount the heat break. I’d like to make them Phillips for my rig 2 as my screws are stripping and I can’t get them right.
there's a notch on the step motors shaft. did you put one of the grub screws on the notch? otherwise it would spin in place.
Install went great! extruder is not extruding while printing it is retracting. I had a 3d printed piece and was printing on my ender3 pro right before i put on the MicroSwiss. Any ideas, same firmware. Thanks Rob
good video! I already have the Micrfoswiss hotend installed on my ender 3 MAX. I tried to install a Zesty Nimble direct drive but I would have to design a new fan shroud, etc. 2 Questions: 1: isn't the Nema 17 Motor a but to big and heavy? Can you use a much smaller Pancake motor? 2: This uses 2 grears, I think but in one path. I wonder about slippage? The OMG Direct drive extruders use 2 geared extruder paths. Isn't this a better design than a single path extruder design. And isn't this the main complaint with the Boden Geared extruder setups. Trying to adjust the spring tension just right, etc. ;Just does not seem to work well. I like that it is an all-in-one solution that you do not need to print out any extra parts. This is my problem with installing a direct drive extruder; having to print out parts.
I understand the non-standard Bowden collet allows the tube to move up and down allowing a clog?
Son on a cr10 pro .the stepper motor is what you use for the direct drive or do i need to buy another one ..please reply . im stuck at the most basic of questions
Hi I just got my kit for the ender3 pro will I need to change ant offsets in my firmware at all ?
I am unable to use my max height. My bowden guide tube at the top of the extruder hits the frame and bends enough to cause the filament to snag and skip in the tube. I am using capricorn tube which is pretty stiff, and does not like to bend. The closer the guide tube gets to the top, it hits the cross rail of the gantry, bending more and more. I've lost about 35mm in build height.
I just bought this upgrade, but I already have a Micro-Swiss all-metal hotend installed. Can I just use the one I already have installed, or do I have to use the one included in this kit?
@ModBot on install PDF, section for adjusting "Origin Offsets" when they refer to leveling probe, is that refering to BLtouch?
Yes
Did you have to adjust the VREF of the x stepper to account for the extra weight of the head? Mine is losing steps all over the place.
Hello, could you tell me what max speed and accelerations could you get?
I have bought E5+ with micro-swiss and just installed klipper :D
Is it the heater block temperature sensor a thermistor? I believe it is a k type thermocouple.
I am a fan of the trianglelabs all metal e3d V6 gold and BMG clones for my printers.
Is there something special about the gold? Or is it just anodized but the same as the standard v6?
@@ModBotArmy seems to be some type of coating. Works rather well, and I am not sure if it is due to the coating or not.
Instead of the risk of over torque on the hot end and damaging the heat break when heated up, isn't the torque wrench supplied by Slice Engineering for their mosquito hot end adequate?
Following your guide unfortunately my stepper motor has the gear press for onto it. Which motor do I need to order?
Hello i was just wondering if u thought it was realistically worth it. Did it make an impact on print quality?
My heatblock keeps turning and I keep getting leak of filment. Is the grub screw suppose to go inside the center section on that part? Or does grub score just tightens against that end.
It seems like you would want to heat up the hotend before pushing the bowden tube in, right?
What screen and main board are you using? Top work on this video!
I'm really wondering why you wouldn't use thermal compound for the heat interfaces to improve conductivity; heater, nozzle, heatsink etc
Is it just not necessary? Surely it would improve performance...
I just installed Microswiss direct drive with all metal hotend and it seems faster but it doesn't print at center. Also it starts out printing then about 15% into the print it just stops extruding filament. Have you seen or heard anything like this? I'm sooo trying to print a good print with this. Any advice would help. Thanks in advance
How do you fix the new Printhead setting? the nozzel will be on a different spot so the printer dont know what the middel of the bed is. the x- will be 5mm more and y like 10+ how do i make that right?
should have mentioned how the fan shroud you originally had needed to be replaced with a ender 3 one because of the screw hole positions for those doing the mod on ender 3 style clones
Tried to come up with a reason, but my brain no work right now ( ha ha). What is the advantage to relocating the Extruder stepper motor from the side to the middle above the hotend?
Any issues with ghosting? and now that its been a year any issues kick up? still in use? thx for the how too..
i have my ender 3 for a while and it prints very well. only upgrade i did was to put a foam board under it and installed PEI sheet which was only $7. i think ender 3 is a choice because its affordable and prints great for it price. i would dare say it prints as well as a $1000 printer if its tuned right.. but if i were to spend money on another mainboard, hot end, extruder, fans, tubes, bed etc.. for me it just defeats the purpose. i would rather get prusa mk3 instead of dealing and worrying about upgrades. great video tho im sure there are alot of people interested in this upgrade.
For me that's half the purpose of going for this one to begin with. An all metal hot end is definitly on the upgrade list for me because of the reliability issue and ptfe off gassing.
So I have an interesting problem. When assembling the heating block, I found that the combined thread length of the heatbreak and nozzle is longer than the height of the block, meaning that I can’t screw in either piece completely. Is this a problem, or will I be able to get away with it if I tighten them enough. This is the hotend that came with the direct drive kit, not my previously owned hotend.
if I currently have a micro swiss hotend already installed on my Ender 5 can I use the Direct Drive I bought from you off Amazon or do I need to use 1 from Micro Swiss?
The grub screw is not on the flat part of the extruder mother shaft?
After installing this on my Ender 3 Pro, my BLTouch is about 4mm off the front of the bed. I've double checked that every bed volume setting is 220x220x250 in Prusa and in OctoPrint, and I've adjusted the offsets in Marlin, compiled a whole new build, same issue. Any tips?