If we have gotten to the point now that we’re concerned about ground damage to the broadhead, or side flexing due to the running of the animals, that’s a great place to be.
Ranch fairy heads are the best I’ve ever shot. Killed 2 this past season with my biggest buck to date and they both didn’t go 50 yards. Got the worksharp jig and it’s crazy how sharp you can get them. Love the videos and the broadheads!!
I Love the fact almost 75,000 sub to your channel that means all those people actually give a damn about this stuff because every bow hunter in the world could learn something from this channel yet marketing and hype teaches them not to listen to the most important parts of bowhunting! Yet there’s an army who does! Thanks Troy!
The last couple minutes of the video make the most sense to me. I don't care what happens to my arrow after exiting the critter. I care about what happens at impact and what happens on the trip through the animal. Anything after the animal is irrelevant. I can't wait to see the test videos. I would like to see you use different shaped broadheads also so that we can see which shape is more effective at impact.
My hypothesis for the one dull side on the two blades is that since the arrows rotate as they fly, the first edge that touches the ground acts like a keel of the ship and the friction with the ground will keep the opposite edge mostly off the ground, possibly slowing down the rotational momentum during skips as well. The only way to be sure is to shoot broadheads on the ground (through something) with a slow motion camera to simulate the slowdown after an animal. Shooting it directly off the bow to the ground will probably have too much forward momentum.
Thank you for your thoughts, it means alot that you took the time. Back in the day we were actually doing it right with the Golden Eagle bows when they were the new hot thing with our giant "telephone" pole aluminum arrows that we got snikered at for.....they were actually very close to high FOC and were indeed very stable when tuned right. lol...If you could keep them straight. I'll likely be ordering arrows and a tuning kit from you this summer some time.
Used RF 200gr bh last year on a whitetail, went right thru most of the deer as if it was not there...70 lbs, 648gr arrow. Stuck in the ground right where I was aiming. Adirondack soil is know for its lack of organic material and abundance of rock. Folded about 3/16 of the tip right over. Rocks happen and I have a practice head.
As always... very entertaining, incredibly valid, thought provoking REAL CONTENT, Troy. Thank you for all you do for the bowhunting community, my friend... even when you fall under scrutiny from all the naysayers who regurgitate the same smooth-brain "logic"... you just keep it all about sharing data and facts. 95% of the bowhunting community needs more discussions like this. We're so inundated with anecdotal paid endorsements these days. It's all about the dollar and who's paying more. Thank you for keeping it real and focusing on sharing what we should all be interested in... Carrying $15,000 dollars worth of gear in your truck doesn't put an elk in the freezer. The arrowhead does.
I am one of the guys that emailed you back in November about my broadhead being all chewed up and I know for a fact it didn’t hit the dirt cause the last 3 inches of the arrow was still in the deer and the arrow was 10 yards down the trail where the deer ran. I’m not sure what happened. Or why. I know I hit the heavy part of the scapula and potentially the off side humorous. But it definitely made me think. I wish I could test them on animals here in my state other than a handful of deer I can shoot during season.. shooting the tuffhead evolution 2. Definitely considering the magnus or the ranch fairy head. Just hate wasting money to get the same results of a chewed up broadhead on the other side of my animal… Thanks for the video Troy!
So I’ve seen this with multiple broadheads on heavier bone that was probably moving as it passed through (guesstimate) However I can confirm the exact same damage from animals where the broadhead anchored in the offside shoulder joint and they ran with it grinding it away laterally. Multiple broadhead platforms
I think that the reason you see more dulling on one side vs the other is because you have a primary contact edge and a secondary contact edge. Think of it like snow shoeing, the guy that cuts the first tracks makes it exponentially easier for the next guy. The next being the other edge. Obviously this is specific to single bevel, as secondary rotation follows first rotation/ S cuts. The primary eats the worst of it (edge chatter/ damage) and the secondary slides on easy street.
Ranch, thanks for all the info. I’ve gone through the testing and decided to land on the 150gn head for this year for whitetail with a 102gn insert as well. I’m going to run the iron will single bevel wide and was wondering if you’ve had any experiences yet with the iron will wides and how they performed for you. Best of luck on the trail of knowledge. Thanks again for all of the great information
Since you already own them Too late - but if you don’t already own them DO NOT GO wide. That is my advice If you own them and they fly kinda weird Shoulda asked me before believing bill the “pretendgineer”
@@RanchFairy I definitely appreciate the feedback! So far I’ve done all the steps you recommended and have great arrow flight and so far so good out to 60 yards. I will definitely keep that in mind for next round of tinkering for sure. Why would you not go wide? Just for the fact of it potentially causing arrow flight issues or a penetration factor?
@@spenceralbert2079 Both. Animals have a lot of bones. At 60, smoking cigarettes in flip flops, every one is good. But on a cold day 3 mule deer hunting or in a stand 5 hrs, shooting 47 yards is a completely different deal. Is your arrow flight with the wide out to 60 good or field points? Broadheads are the gold standard.
if I'm looking for a 75-80 pound capable left handed bow to set up following your wisdom what would you recommend? I'm not a gear head so it doesnt need to be the latest greatest fancy thing. Just a bow that if i find one used will hold up to time. I'm currently shooting a Bear Game Over, at 74 pounds and with some string twist I've been told I can get it close to78 but from what I understand this is not wise? Been killing deer for twenty years with a bow and have decided after watching everything you have ever put out some several times that id like to start doing it right. Any advice is welcome, I'm up in the blue ridge mountains in North Carolina.
My recommendation is a bow that is over 32" ATA, not with aggressive cam system i.e. NOT the ultra fastest fast one. To get the "performance" those bows tweak like a meth head. Long"er" bows are more forgiving. Do NOT listen to the yahoos who talk out both sides of their mouth. "Oh yes, I shoot a 34-36" bow for target because it's more forgiving, but NO WAY while hunting......." Isn't hunting actually a reason to be accurate? Apparently not! Longer bow, moderate cam system, good fall away rest and ranch fairy test kit!!
Really looking forward to the new RF 200's becoming available. My Toughheads 125 are dialed. At 20, 200's impact the same and drop 2.5 at 40. Apollo 300's RULE!
If your taking time for the cadaver-broadhead damage study or really, any "cadaver lab" studies... if you can set up a couple high speed cameras (top and side views perpendicular to arrow flight) and corresponding "inch tape" boards you can increase your study "outputs" to also provide data on impact to exit deceleration, changes in angle, and arrow roll/position impact shifting for the KE-Momentum studys. (a few more imputs for many more outputs) Keep up the great research. And for everyone like me who needs reminders, NOW is the time to start testing, building, and improving for the fall. Happy Hunting Dusters!
I think the reason one side is way duller than another after burying in the ground is that The force will be on the side that hits first a vector of force So it’s not even either side of the broad head One side will have more force the other is almost in a void of dirt as it moves sideways Just a thought
It is pretty amazing the disconnect between your knives dulling and broadheads dulling. I think it's the small distance of travel that throws people off. And, there isn't a broadhead company out there who will study this and find out.......if their heads hold up.
shot my first stick bow deer with a grizlystik single bevel, frontal shot, she carried it 15 yard and pulled out in the brush. broadhead took me 10 mins to sharpen. Shot a buck with the same broadhead 2 weeks later and it skipped off a rock after and now that broadhead is retired.
For me, this makes a lot of sense. I remembered back to a deer I didn't recover and couldn't for the life of me figure out why. I put a good center mass hit quartering away with a 3-blade "M" broadhead on XX75 shafts with a complete passthrough. Trailed it for 3/4 mile and it was found by the neighbor's dog in the spring another 1/2 mile away after crossing a CRP field. Then I was watching one of your videos and you said something to the effect of the thin blades just don't hold up. I remember every single one of the "M" blades being trashed over the years. This last year I switched to Grizzlystick 175gr and noticed something completely different. On a miss, I buried one in a creek bottom and to my surprise wasn't completely beat to hell. The next one connected on a fairly high downward angle quartering away shot that hit the heavier part of the ribs. I checked both broadheads when I got home and to my surprise cut through paper with only a couple hangups and both were able to be brought back to sharp quickly. That made me realize better blades are where it's at. It will be interesting to see what happens with the testing.
One shot leads to a test. Then the next shot leads to a different test. Hmmmm good thing you run a channel committed to testing for the rest of us dummies.
I was thinking about one edge of a single bevel being worse for the wear than the other... Might be due the direction of the rotation... Need to check if it is always or mostly one side or the other and which direction it is beveled for.
You may have better luck with the broadhead not getting chewed up if you use tool steel instead of stainless. A2 or s7 tool steel can be brought to a higher Rockwell harness and they have much butter impact resistance than stainless.
@@TylerHunt556 Hahaha - the indoctrination is real. Thats 3 different broadheads - and on animal impact with 100% hit the earth!! See - here’s the deal, the guys who told you this are masturbating on the message boards and theoretically musing their thoughts But they don’t test anything - ever And sure as hell some of these cronies WONT show you this type of information. Because they don’t want you to know what happens OFTEN. It’s all magic and never fails……..
@@RanchFairy I wasn’t trying to be rude. I was only referencing what I’ve seen from lusk archery adventures testing boradheads. He shoots them through steel plates and into concrete blocks. The tool steel holds up better to impacts than stainless does. It’s also just basic chemistry make up of the different steels. I meant no disrespect, was just a thought.
We have a proprietary tool steel and since competitors tend to steal ideas. We aren’t telling the competition. It is a stainless blend to keep it from rusting like the carbon steel versions
@@RanchFairy 100% understand. I was just curious because im a knife nut and im really into metallurgy. I think it would be cool to see how different knife steels and heat treatments would perform.
The wild beyond the target animal isn't forgiving on broadhead edges, fact. Start off with high quality broadheads and the chance they'll survive passthroughs is higher. I can't wait to see the revamped RF 200 single beveles!
Mr Fairy, at what point do you throw away a broadhead? If you can get it razor sharp again, but a few chunks missing, things like that, what point is not shootable
I would love to know what my last two broadheads looked like. Unfortunately they were shots from a tree, and the deer were on the downside of a hill annnnd they’re gone now. lol
Troy. I’m shooting a 360 grain arrow setup (twizzler)and want to use the new Magnus single bevel. I’m sure Im going to have to change arrows but not sure where to start. I’m using Easton 6.5 26 1/4 long 400 spine. Bow- 61 lb 27” draw…..Help
Just buy the Magnus heads and try them. If they tune, Great! If they don't then go up to 350 spine. I'd probably go to a 350 spine anyways with your specs and that should bring your total arrow weight up a bit as well.
I’m relatively new to archery. A few years ago when I bought my bow, I bought the arrows suggested to me by the “pro shop” employee who sold it to me. After watching RF videos and visiting the reports on the ABF site, I recognized that I had poor arrow flight. In figuring out how to fix it I discovered a gold tip spine selector chart and saw that my arrow spine was too flexible for the point weight I desired to shoot. I switched to a 300 spine. The results were evident. Since that time I went up to 150 gr point weight to increase foc. I tried 170, but created the same type of poor arrow flight I previously had and I’m not ready to jump to a 250 spine(yet…). My arrow flight looks great even in slow motion. I’m drilling the vitals of my targets out to 60(with my broadheads of choice). I’m confident and excited to see how it translates into the woods this fall. Many thanks to Troy Fowler and Ed Ashby.
Stick shooter will always want you to shoot the OLD TWIzZLEer.. He's one of my long time trolls. 300 spine 100 grain Insert. (DO NOT SHOOT A HIT WITOUT A COLLAR). Ya could buy RF super nova SD. See my four fletch video in the ordering and arrow tuning playlist. Hit me on email if unclear. Troy@ranchfairy.com
Can a broadhead be TOO TOUGH? My answer would be yes, if you cannot adequately sharpen it. Extremely tough broadheads can be extremely tough to sharpen and some can not reach adequate sharpness with the average traditional sharpening method of a stone or file. I prefer carbon steel over stainless regarding sharpening, because carbon is much easier to achieve a lethal edge. Stainless is a tougher steel, but can be extremely frustrating to get to the same level of sharpness as a carbon without a lot of extra effort and special sharpening tools and techniques. Having said that, stainless can be made adequately sharp, but my level of sharpening skills just takes a carbon edge to a much higher level of terrifying with much less time, effort and specialized sharpening equipment. I have been known to cheat using an electric grinder.
Broadhead integrity, sharpness and arrow flight have become an obsession with me. Thanks. LOL!! I should get that workbench sharpener, but I'm still using the broadhead guides and sharpening by hand. I will at some point but I got stupid priorities like buying a new washer/dryer I need to deal with. 🤷🏼♂️🤣
@@PoeOutdoors have you ever sharpened butter knife dull S7 Tool Steel heads? I didn’t set a timer but even with a drawer full of different sharpeners it’s very time consuming.
@@deanbrantleyI’ve sharpened so many VPA heads I’ve lost count, and none took that much time. I have videos sharpening 3 blades and single bevels with a stone, sandpaper and cardboard strop. You need to learn to sharpen.
@EdAshby Uncle Ed, on the contrary, I greatly respect your work and what Uncle Troy is carrying on. I stopped bowhunting because I got sick of the occasional lost animal. Ever since finding Troy's videos and learning about your research, I have the utmost confidence in my setup! High FOC, single bevels, and my 60# recurve is unbelievable! Also, I excelled in creative writing, both in college and high school. I am the only student to receive a perfect 100/100 EVER from my high school senior lit teacher. My essay on "To Kill A Mockingbird" made her cry. I will work on my sarcasm. Trust me I am a huge fan and believer in your irrefutable "FACT" based science! When I come to Texas you'll understand "The Brown and Wild Boy From Kula."
All this nonsense is pointless. It makes no sense. Who gives a damn if a broadhead gets dull after a shot. I don't care if it passes through the animal and completely flys apart, breaks apart, and completely destroyed. Some of these topics and " testing" are senseless and a waste of time " my broadhead passed through an animal and stick in the sand, and dirt and rocks , and when I pulled it out and cleaned it off , it was duller than before the shot. This head isn't any good and I need to find one better, because it might not kill deader than the next head" ( talking this while kneeling beside a dead animal with a gaping hole through both sides and 3 gallons of blood around it) . See how damn stupid that sounds?some people and topics talked about just get dumber the more they talk
This one I didn’t expect because I didn’t have a broadhead that bounced off rocks etc. the reason we should ask these questions is to increase lethality. It’s not the one that is laying in a 3 foot blood spot we care about. It’s the ones that the trail is hard, or long, or they don’t bleed much, etc that we want to help solve. FYI - no one admits this ever happens - all commenters are always 100% kill and “easy blood trails” So those people are good. I’m gonna keep asking why EVERYONE isnt 100.%. So you can go away and follow someone else my man. Because there is will be more - “I wonder if this matters”???? Yep! I promise - I upload the content.
![สาวเมืองเพชร - ธีเดช ทองอภิชาติ [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kEt7F9PvO3I/mqdefault.jpg)
If we have gotten to the point now that we’re concerned about ground damage to the broadhead, or side flexing due to the running of the animals, that’s a great place to be.
Your on camera speaking has greatly improved over the last year or so. Well done!
Ranch fairy heads are the best I’ve ever shot. Killed 2 this past season with my biggest buck to date and they both didn’t go 50 yards. Got the worksharp jig and it’s crazy how sharp you can get them. Love the videos and the broadheads!!
I Love the fact almost 75,000 sub to your channel that means all those people actually give a damn about this stuff because every bow hunter in the world could learn something from this channel yet marketing and hype teaches them not to listen to the most important parts of bowhunting! Yet there’s an army who does! Thanks Troy!
Thank you
The last couple minutes of the video make the most sense to me. I don't care what happens to my arrow after exiting the critter. I care about what happens at impact and what happens on the trip through the animal. Anything after the animal is irrelevant. I can't wait to see the test videos. I would like to see you use different shaped broadheads also so that we can see which shape is more effective at impact.
My hypothesis for the one dull side on the two blades is that since the arrows rotate as they fly, the first edge that touches the ground acts like a keel of the ship and the friction with the ground will keep the opposite edge mostly off the ground, possibly slowing down the rotational momentum during skips as well. The only way to be sure is to shoot broadheads on the ground (through something) with a slow motion camera to simulate the slowdown after an animal. Shooting it directly off the bow to the ground will probably have too much forward momentum.
Thank you for your thoughts, it means alot that you took the time. Back in the day we were actually doing it right with the Golden Eagle bows when they were the new hot thing with our giant "telephone" pole aluminum arrows that we got snikered at for.....they were actually very close to high FOC and were indeed very stable when tuned right. lol...If you could keep them straight. I'll likely be ordering arrows and a tuning kit from you this summer some time.
Thank you. Holler anytime. Troy@ranchfairy.com
Used RF 200gr bh last year on a whitetail, went right thru most of the deer as if it was not there...70 lbs, 648gr arrow. Stuck in the ground right where I was aiming. Adirondack soil is know for its lack of organic material and abundance of rock. Folded about 3/16 of the tip right over. Rocks happen and I have a practice head.
Just keep doing what you are doing another very good video
As always... very entertaining, incredibly valid, thought provoking REAL CONTENT, Troy. Thank you for all you do for the bowhunting community, my friend... even when you fall under scrutiny from all the naysayers who regurgitate the same smooth-brain "logic"... you just keep it all about sharing data and facts.
95% of the bowhunting community needs more discussions like this. We're so inundated with anecdotal paid endorsements these days. It's all about the dollar and who's paying more. Thank you for keeping it real and focusing on sharing what we should all be interested in...
Carrying $15,000 dollars worth of gear in your truck doesn't put an elk in the freezer. The arrowhead does.
I am one of the guys that emailed you back in November about my broadhead being all chewed up and I know for a fact it didn’t hit the dirt cause the last 3 inches of the arrow was still in the deer and the arrow was 10 yards down the trail where the deer ran. I’m not sure what happened. Or why. I know I hit the heavy part of the scapula and potentially the off side humorous. But it definitely made me think. I wish I could test them on animals here in my state other than a handful of deer I can shoot during season.. shooting the tuffhead evolution 2. Definitely considering the magnus or the ranch fairy head. Just hate wasting money to get the same results of a chewed up broadhead on the other side of my animal… Thanks for the video Troy!
So I’ve seen this with multiple broadheads on heavier bone that was probably moving as it passed through (guesstimate)
However I can confirm the exact same damage from animals where the broadhead anchored in the offside shoulder joint and they ran with it grinding it away laterally. Multiple broadhead platforms
I think that the reason you see more dulling on one side vs the other is because you have a primary contact edge and a secondary contact edge.
Think of it like snow shoeing, the guy that cuts the first tracks makes it exponentially easier for the next guy. The next being the other edge. Obviously this is specific to single bevel, as secondary rotation follows first rotation/ S cuts. The primary eats the worst of it (edge chatter/ damage) and the secondary slides on easy street.
Ranch, thanks for all the info. I’ve gone through the testing and decided to land on the 150gn head for this year for whitetail with a 102gn insert as well. I’m going to run the iron will single bevel wide and was wondering if you’ve had any experiences yet with the iron will wides and how they performed for you. Best of luck on the trail of knowledge. Thanks again for all of the great information
Since you already own them
Too late - but if you don’t already own them
DO NOT GO wide. That is my advice
If you own them and they fly kinda weird
Shoulda asked me before believing bill the “pretendgineer”
@@RanchFairy I definitely appreciate the feedback! So far I’ve done all the steps you recommended and have great arrow flight and so far so good out to 60 yards. I will definitely keep that in mind for next round of tinkering for sure. Why would you not go wide? Just for the fact of it potentially causing arrow flight issues or a penetration factor?
@@spenceralbert2079
Both. Animals have a lot of bones. At 60, smoking cigarettes in flip flops, every one is good. But on a cold day 3 mule deer hunting or in a stand 5 hrs, shooting 47 yards is a completely different deal.
Is your arrow flight with the wide out to 60 good or field points? Broadheads are the gold standard.
Another great video! Thanks
if I'm looking for a 75-80 pound capable left handed bow to set up following your wisdom what would you recommend? I'm not a gear head so it doesnt need to be the latest greatest fancy thing. Just a bow that if i find one used will hold up to time. I'm currently shooting a Bear Game Over, at 74 pounds and with some string twist I've been told I can get it close to78 but from what I understand this is not wise? Been killing deer for twenty years with a bow and have decided after watching everything you have ever put out some several times that id like to start doing it right. Any advice is welcome, I'm up in the blue ridge mountains in North Carolina.
My recommendation is a bow that is over 32" ATA, not with aggressive cam system i.e. NOT the ultra fastest fast one. To get the "performance" those bows tweak like a meth head.
Long"er" bows are more forgiving. Do NOT listen to the yahoos who talk out both sides of their mouth. "Oh yes, I shoot a 34-36" bow for target because it's more forgiving, but NO WAY while hunting......." Isn't hunting actually a reason to be accurate? Apparently not!
Longer bow, moderate cam system, good fall away rest and ranch fairy test kit!!
Really looking forward to the new RF 200's becoming available. My Toughheads 125 are dialed. At 20, 200's impact the same and drop 2.5 at 40. Apollo 300's RULE!
If your taking time for the cadaver-broadhead damage study or really, any "cadaver lab" studies...
if you can set up a couple high speed cameras (top and side views perpendicular to arrow flight) and corresponding "inch tape" boards you can increase your study "outputs" to also provide data on impact to exit deceleration, changes in angle, and arrow roll/position impact shifting for the KE-Momentum studys. (a few more imputs for many more outputs)
Keep up the great research.
And for everyone like me who needs reminders, NOW is the time to start testing, building, and improving for the fall.
Happy Hunting Dusters!
Now I only need $15K for cameras!!!
@RanchFairy lol, good thing they aren't expensive. 😂
@@RanchFairymaybe you can borrow one from Josh Bowmar 😉
I think the reason one side is way duller than another after burying in the ground is that
The force will be on the side that hits first
a vector of force
So it’s not even either side of the broad head
One side will have more force the other is almost in a void of dirt as it moves sideways
Just a thought
I'm amazed that people need to be told that dirt dulls blades 😂😂😂
It is pretty amazing the disconnect between your knives dulling and broadheads dulling.
I think it's the small distance of travel that throws people off. And, there isn't a broadhead company out there who will study this and find out.......if their heads hold up.
I sent you pics and the story about the doe I shot this year; and the inside flat of her scap was all chewed up. Broad head was fine though
shot my first stick bow deer with a grizlystik single bevel, frontal shot, she carried it 15 yard and pulled out in the brush. broadhead took me 10 mins to sharpen. Shot a buck with the same broadhead 2 weeks later and it skipped off a rock after and now that broadhead is retired.
For me, this makes a lot of sense. I remembered back to a deer I didn't recover and couldn't for the life of me figure out why. I put a good center mass hit quartering away with a 3-blade "M" broadhead on XX75 shafts with a complete passthrough. Trailed it for 3/4 mile and it was found by the neighbor's dog in the spring another 1/2 mile away after crossing a CRP field. Then I was watching one of your videos and you said something to the effect of the thin blades just don't hold up. I remember every single one of the "M" blades being trashed over the years. This last year I switched to Grizzlystick 175gr and noticed something completely different. On a miss, I buried one in a creek bottom and to my surprise wasn't completely beat to hell. The next one connected on a fairly high downward angle quartering away shot that hit the heavier part of the ribs. I checked both broadheads when I got home and to my surprise cut through paper with only a couple hangups and both were able to be brought back to sharp quickly. That made me realize better blades are where it's at. It will be interesting to see what happens with the testing.
You’ve been enlightened
One shot leads to a test. Then the next shot leads to a different test. Hmmmm good thing you run a channel committed to testing for the rest of us dummies.
It’s a scroll they continually lengthens
You literally so a test then “oh wow, uh, what about that?” Just shows up
I was thinking about one edge of a single bevel being worse for the wear than the other... Might be due the direction of the rotation... Need to check if it is always or mostly one side or the other and which direction it is beveled for.
On the list
The reason the broadhead is duller on one side after hitting the ground is because it did NOT hit the ground at 90 deg.
When are we getting the magnus single bevel buzzcut?
In the next couple weeks!
You may have better luck with the broadhead not getting chewed up if you use tool steel instead of stainless. A2 or s7 tool steel can be brought to a higher Rockwell harness and they have much butter impact resistance than stainless.
@@TylerHunt556
Hahaha - the indoctrination is real. Thats 3 different broadheads - and on animal impact with 100% hit the earth!!
See - here’s the deal, the guys who told you this are masturbating on the message boards and theoretically musing their thoughts
But they don’t test anything - ever
And sure as hell some of these cronies WONT show you this type of information. Because they don’t want you to know what happens OFTEN. It’s all magic and never fails……..
@@RanchFairy I wasn’t trying to be rude. I was only referencing what I’ve seen from lusk archery adventures testing boradheads. He shoots them through steel plates and into concrete blocks. The tool steel holds up better to impacts than stainless does. It’s also just basic chemistry make up of the different steels. I meant no disrespect, was just a thought.
You're speakin French now? 😂 This is such good info to noodle around in my head. Like you said, I have not paid as much attention to this as I should!
What steel are you using for your broadheads?
We have a proprietary tool steel and since competitors tend to steal ideas.
We aren’t telling the competition.
It is a stainless blend to keep it from rusting like the carbon steel versions
@@RanchFairy 100% understand. I was just curious because im a knife nut and im really into metallurgy. I think it would be cool to see how different knife steels and heat treatments would perform.
@@WHEELZCUSTOMKYDEX Oh I've had to start becoming a metallurgist. HOLY SMOKES there is a rabbit hole!!
@@RanchFairy oh definitely!!
The wild beyond the target animal isn't forgiving on broadhead edges, fact.
Start off with high quality broadheads and the chance they'll survive passthroughs is higher.
I can't wait to see the revamped RF 200 single beveles!
Days away
So thats what the Uline catalog is for....
Mr Fairy, at what point do you throw away a broadhead? If you can get it razor sharp again, but a few chunks missing, things like that, what point is not shootable
If its more than 75% sharp and the edge is good, I'd send it.
I would love to know what my last two broadheads looked like. Unfortunately they were shots from a tree, and the deer were on the downside of a hill annnnd they’re gone now. lol
Troy. I’m shooting a 360 grain arrow setup (twizzler)and want to use the new Magnus single bevel. I’m sure Im going to have to change arrows but not sure where to start. I’m using Easton 6.5 26 1/4 long 400 spine. Bow- 61 lb 27” draw…..Help
Just buy the Magnus heads and try them. If they tune, Great! If they don't then go up to 350 spine. I'd probably go to a 350 spine anyways with your specs and that should bring your total arrow weight up a bit as well.
Google Easton hunting shaft selector.
@@blaketullos9890 I’ve got the Easton App. It says 350-300 spine
I’m relatively new to archery. A few years ago when I bought my bow, I bought the arrows suggested to me by the “pro shop” employee who sold it to me. After watching RF videos and visiting the reports on the ABF site, I recognized that I had poor arrow flight. In figuring out how to fix it I discovered a gold tip spine selector chart and saw that my arrow spine was too flexible for the point weight I desired to shoot. I switched to a 300 spine. The results were evident. Since that time I went up to 150 gr point weight to increase foc. I tried 170, but created the same type of poor arrow flight I previously had and I’m not ready to jump to a 250 spine(yet…). My arrow flight looks great even in slow motion. I’m drilling the vitals of my targets out to 60(with my broadheads of choice). I’m confident and excited to see how it translates into the woods this fall. Many thanks to Troy Fowler and Ed Ashby.
Stick shooter will always want you to shoot the OLD TWIzZLEer.. He's one of my long time trolls.
300 spine
100 grain Insert. (DO NOT SHOOT A HIT WITOUT A COLLAR). Ya could buy RF super nova SD.
See my four fletch video in the ordering and arrow tuning playlist.
Hit me on email if unclear. Troy@ranchfairy.com
Can a broadhead be TOO TOUGH? My answer would be yes, if you cannot adequately sharpen it. Extremely tough broadheads can be extremely tough to sharpen and some can not reach adequate sharpness with the average traditional sharpening method of a stone or file. I prefer carbon steel over stainless regarding sharpening, because carbon is much easier to achieve a lethal edge. Stainless is a tougher steel, but can be extremely frustrating to get to the same level of sharpness as a carbon without a lot of extra effort and special sharpening tools and techniques. Having said that, stainless can be made adequately sharp, but my level of sharpening skills just takes a carbon edge to a much higher level of terrifying with much less time, effort and specialized sharpening equipment. I have been known to cheat using an electric grinder.
Yes they can. The metallurgy piece is incredibly challenging and one of the reasons real broadheads are expensive.
Them teeth are beautiful partner. How much did the cost?
Broadhead integrity, sharpness and arrow flight have become an obsession with me. Thanks. LOL!! I should get that workbench sharpener, but I'm still using the broadhead guides and sharpening by hand. I will at some point but I got stupid priorities like buying a new washer/dryer I need to deal with. 🤷🏼♂️🤣
Build a sharpener no.pennies
Don’t listen to your partner / wife - the washer / dryer can wait! You need the sharpener first!
That 1 company is VPA. Premium price then I have to spend an hour on each head. Got me once, never again.
Me also
Same here. I would have bought tuffhead, but they sold out.
You really spent an hour sharpening one broadhead?
@@PoeOutdoors have you ever sharpened butter knife dull S7 Tool Steel heads? I didn’t set a timer but even with a drawer full of different sharpeners it’s very time consuming.
@@deanbrantleyI’ve sharpened so many VPA heads I’ve lost count, and none took that much time. I have videos sharpening 3 blades and single bevels with a stone, sandpaper and cardboard strop. You need to learn to sharpen.
STOP the deer torture
💪🏽🇺🇸🏹
That's because you don't know what your talking about😅😂 just a bass fisherman who shoots arrows what would you know🤣😂🤫🔥🤙🏽
@EdAshby Uncle Ed, on the contrary, I greatly respect your work and what Uncle Troy is carrying on. I stopped bowhunting because I got sick of the occasional lost animal. Ever since finding Troy's videos and learning about your research, I have the utmost confidence in my setup! High FOC, single bevels, and my 60# recurve is unbelievable! Also, I excelled in creative writing, both in college and high school. I am the only student to receive a perfect 100/100 EVER from my high school senior lit teacher. My essay on "To Kill A Mockingbird" made her cry. I will work on my sarcasm. Trust me I am a huge fan and believer in your irrefutable "FACT" based science! When I come to Texas you'll understand "The Brown and Wild Boy From Kula."
@EdAshby your reply is like a badge of honor!
STOP making people shoot under the animal because the were off on their yardage calculations by THREE YARDS....JUST STOP>>>STOP>>>STOP>>>
STOP promoting bad low hits on animals
STOP making people hit the branches in the trees because they have to aim 3.5 feet above the animal
Stop thinking your right and everyone else is wrong.
STOP
STOP steering our new young hunters off in the WRONG direction
All this nonsense is pointless. It makes no sense. Who gives a damn if a broadhead gets dull after a shot. I don't care if it passes through the animal and completely flys apart, breaks apart, and completely destroyed. Some of these topics and " testing" are senseless and a waste of time " my broadhead passed through an animal and stick in the sand, and dirt and rocks , and when I pulled it out and cleaned it off , it was duller than before the shot. This head isn't any good and I need to find one better, because it might not kill deader than the next head" ( talking this while kneeling beside a dead animal with a gaping hole through both sides and 3 gallons of blood around it) . See how damn stupid that sounds?some people and topics talked about just get dumber the more they talk
This one I didn’t expect because I didn’t have a broadhead that bounced off rocks etc. the reason we should ask these questions is to increase lethality.
It’s not the one that is laying in a 3 foot blood spot we care about. It’s the ones that the trail is hard, or long, or they don’t bleed much, etc that we want to help solve.
FYI - no one admits this ever happens - all commenters are always 100% kill and “easy blood trails”
So those people are good. I’m gonna keep asking why EVERYONE isnt 100.%.
So you can go away and follow someone else my man. Because there is will be more - “I wonder if this matters”????
Yep! I promise - I upload the content.
STOP