I used one on my c1500. I spent a few minutes with a multi meter making sure it didn't have some of the common well know issues. In my case, I was good to go. The harness worked out great, and it allowed me to put the ECU in the glove box area because it had the extra added length.
Your tip about the 12v ignition being connected to the old distributor wire in GM stuff was really helpful for me. I’m LS swapping my 76 C10 and I’m not extremely experienced, so tips like that definitely will help me out. I think it would be cool if you made a video about LS wiring in older GM vehicles (tips about utilizing existing wires and such). I think it would be very helpful and would make it less intimidating for guys like me. Keep up the good work man!
On a square body my recommendation is delete that mess off the firewall that originally has your fusible links and runs to the starter and alternator. If you use the oem GM harness you don't need the exciter wire from your trucks alternator either. That said with one of these Ebay specials it's hard to say if it has that wiring in place. I just ordered one of these 94 dollar ones so I will see... I normally rework all my own. The big pink wire that powered your distributor can theoretically power up all your coils, injectors and whatnot but I just use it to trigger the ignition relay myself and get the actual power for all those things from the battery. The purple wire down to your starter is still the same starter solenoid wire.
10:54 when I did mine, I cut a rectangle hole in the firewall and made a face plate for the ecu that bolted to the firewall over the hole I cut, so the plugs were the only part showing. So if i had to, Id just take the bolts out of the face plate, take out the 2 screws holding the ecu to the face plate and done. Also keeps it dry and less in the elements.
For the relay if you hook up the wrong color or just don't like the colors they are using for stuff you can de-pin them and move them around if the wire is the right gauge and you can remove the 87a wire since you aren't using it but I have had the connections fail from corrosion but what I like is you can buy sockets with the terminals it works out cleaner and less extra butt connections
Thank you so much! I just started down the LS rabbit hole and will be swapping out the 5.9L Dodge Magnum in my 1957 Chevy truck for a 2005 5.3 LS from a Chevy Tahoe. I did the Dodge wiring myself with the help of a factory service manual, since nobody does stand alone harnesses for the Magnum platform. I’ve had it running and driving reliably since 2015, but the transmission is getting to the point where it will need love, and even with the cam I swapped in, the Magnum is limited in what you can do with throwing lots of $$$ at it. The Dodge drivetrain was a stop-gap when I did the 4wd chassis swap. I didn’t have a GM transmission or transfer case at the time and my budget was limited. I stayed with the good parts from the donor truck and made the most of it. Now I can afford better…
I was going to use Holley Terminator on the project truck that I am building. I went to order the system and found out that the prices have gone up $400. The Max system that I bought 2 years ago cost $1200 that system is now $1600. I will be using the stock computer.
I agree with free for the toggle switches. If people want to get picky. You can buy a 8 pack of toggle switches from Amazon for 11.99 so 1.50 each and yours are used so I'd say less.
I have used 3 of those exact harnesses, none had oil pressure plug so I use mechanical style gauge. Another weird thing to explain to people is it has the 5 wire plug for MAF and then the LS1 style with separate air temp sensor,
I used PC hammer for tuning. Where I got my motor came on a pallet already running. Just had to keep looking. Lq4 $700. Got buy with it for a while till I found a used terminator.
So the stock ecu will work great, even with a somewhat large cam and 11:1? I want to keep my truck n.a. but I want a good size cam, not big, but good for drags in a truck that I can drive on the street, and do some head work, and try to be at 10.5:1-11:1 on compression. I was going to use my stock harness, but I would go through it at the minimum to find bad wires and what not, so I'm not chasing issues for years. $100 for a new swap harness isn't bad. I'll also need it to work for a 4l60e. Just because that's what the truck has, and should hold 400hp
Now I am watching this and all those earlier model LS motors/Vorteks have an EGR valve and plug. This set up doesn't have it. So how do we get around eliminating the EGR???
Following! My buddy just picked up a LS swapped 96 Z71. I go to plug in my laptop to tune it. It's the old OBD2 port. And the OBD2 for the LS is no where to be found.
Man, I'm so excited to see how this little truck runs but I'm worried about that cam and springs you bought. A guy on here, Powell Machine, did a test on the hardness of the cam, measured lift and duration, as well as tested the springs. The cam was soft as a flat tappet cam, the duration was way more than what it was supposed to be, the lift on the intake side was over .600" and the springs were binding early and didn't have very even pressures. I pray nothing bad happens because if it'll actually lives, this is a big money saver over buying name brand stuff.
Great video. I've got the same harness, bought it 2nd hand. The prior owner did something to the harness so now I've got no obvious power wire connected to that fuse block.....but he did separate out a red, white and green wire from the harness. The instructions are now no help in figuring out what's up. Can you possibly tell me where that red wire was originally suppose to hook up to in the fuse block? Any thoughts on what the white and green wire might be for? Thanks a million and great video.
I used this harness 3 times so far and work out great . Only thing I have notice is that there 2 wire that comes out the computer that not use idk why thay do that
Good point on the stock ecu. Maybe you can do a highlight on he different "ls" ecu's like the 0411 vs the early year or e85 flex tune ones. Just for us lazy folks. I got a 00 sierra but I wanna run a 58x and flex fuel on a cammed 6.2 so I'll need to work to swap the harness. But. I think the stock ecu will work fine for that and I'll run a nitrous box with its own fuel tank (spare battery holder makes for a good 2 gallon tank)
I am wiring a 5.3 ls with the eBay harness to basically a shell it’s from 1935 and I got it with nothing in it so I have no distributor wire and no idea where to tie the red wire into
Enjoy the video,but have a question I made my harness out of scrap ones and been in 02 purgatory ever since .the style I have are the flat plugs I noticed on that harness that there's square what O2 sensor do you have to get for the cheap harness.thanks
I haven’t made the jump to the LS yet, I have a LT1 project that I’m going to use the old for 0411 ECM in, basically I’m doing the same thing? I watch as many of your videos as possible I’ve learned a lot. I’M AN OLD GEAR-HEAD I’m slow with wiring. I’m going to start with the 4X setup first then build my courage up an try 24X? 😂. Keep the great videos coming
Cant wait to see the price breakdown on this build…….and then the timeslips…….exciting shit brogham!!!!😊………..i can already see grudge races with jack black in the near future!!!
I got one of these harnesses a while back when they were $200……works great only for 1 problem, my dash tach will not work unless i pull out the obd2 fuse, the tack works on my scanner thru the obd2 if i have one hooked up or if you do the bluetooth tablet gauge thing…….but if your old school like me you want your dash tach to work……so i just leave the obd2 fuse out , unless i have to use a scanner which is never……wish i would have waited till they were $99…….even though i have a brandnew terminator x sitting in a box next to a new vortech supercharger sitting in the box as well…..i cant tune so i just bite the bullet and put terminator x’s on my cars when i go boosted😅
So if you used the original ecm for a stock 5.3 u still have to unlock the computer???????? If you don't have camshaft swapp or nothing else still have to unlock or tune the computer??????
I always see it as someone will pay the price high or low. It make sense to have the same part from the same maker scattered around at different prices and making money no matter what
I bought a set of those headers not too long ago and I am still trying to figure out how the hell I am gonna change plugs on the back 4 cylinders. I guess I'll find out won't I.... I will probably put new plugs in because I plan on getting new heads and a cam.
I bought a ebay harness and it was pinned sooo wrong. Drove me nuts trying to figure out why my motor was backfiring and popping through the intake. Turns out a bunch of sensors where wired wrong
Late, but from Painless wiring, Summit Racing, PSI Conversions, Salvage Yards, eBay. You can get the 0411 flashed with what you have if it's not correct for your 6.0/4L80E, but you can buy it already from setup for your combo from all the above
I messed up and bought mine back around spring time. The cheapest one I could find then was $170 shipped. Lol building my Isuzu now the cheapest one is like 90-100 lol
Watching this, I had a Starfire flashback... I am staring at the firewall hoping you're going to yank the heater box/core and cover that gaping hole. Loving this project, I remember that article well... I was 15 when it was published. It gave my broke, part time job ass hope for having a fast hot rod.
if boost is in the near future, I'd could see it... but the 862 head on my lq4 where the best thing I did to the truck. It ran 8.2 in the 1/8th on its first pass... I think it would of ran a high 7 if I wasnt scared of breaking something. 2nd pass I left much harder and broke the rearend...
@@alldabeanzracing9650 I am actually about to swap 706s onto a truck with 317s. True A to B, nothing is changing except for the cylinder heads and adjusting the tune. Same dyno, tuner, etc. I am curious to compare the graphs under the curve.
@@alldabeanzracing9650 the dyno won't lie, I'm honestly expecting about 10 - peak vs. peak. But, if it gets 20... I'll be ecstatic. My main goal is for it to pick up torque in the 3000-5000 RPM range. The engine is an 04 LQ4, XR275 cam, TBSS intake, 92mm TB, headers, exhaust. It's in a 2000 Sierra RCSB.
gen 3 stuff doesn't report oil pressure to the ECU, only to the BCM and straight to the cluster. I have used at least 10 of these harnesses from different sellers (and different prices) and they all pretty much look the same. P59 style has been good but every P01 harness has needed modification to make the O2 sensors work. They generally wont throw a code but you can see the sensors aren't switching in the scanner preventing closed loop fueling. Check out my channel for a video covering this
P59s can report oil pressure to the ecm. You can tell more or less by the oil pressure sending unit change. Does the pcm do anything with the oil pressure input? No. But you can use a scanner to monitor oil pressure if you keep the sending unit wiring in the harness which I like to do.
I must of missed it and I'm at work kinda can't go back and rewatch what was the price on this harness bubba...Edit: guess I should have watched the entire video before I asked 😂
If you have the factory harness and you clearly are not trying to make it pretty since you can't be bother to clean the heads and valve covers when you had them off just use the factory and cut the trans stuff and rear o2s or whatever else you don't need
I used one on my c1500. I spent a few minutes with a multi meter making sure it didn't have some of the common well know issues. In my case, I was good to go. The harness worked out great, and it allowed me to put the ECU in the glove box area because it had the extra added length.
That's good to know I am getting ready to switch my C10 over to LS so it's better for my son to drive
Your tip about the 12v ignition being connected to the old distributor wire in GM stuff was really helpful for me. I’m LS swapping my 76 C10 and I’m not extremely experienced, so tips like that definitely will help me out. I think it would be cool if you made a video about LS wiring in older GM vehicles (tips about utilizing existing wires and such). I think it would be very helpful and would make it less intimidating for guys like me. Keep up the good work man!
showed the wire colors an what they do from factory an all that
On a square body my recommendation is delete that mess off the firewall that originally has your fusible links and runs to the starter and alternator. If you use the oem GM harness you don't need the exciter wire from your trucks alternator either. That said with one of these Ebay specials it's hard to say if it has that wiring in place. I just ordered one of these 94 dollar ones so I will see... I normally rework all my own.
The big pink wire that powered your distributor can theoretically power up all your coils, injectors and whatnot but I just use it to trigger the ignition relay myself and get the actual power for all those things from the battery. The purple wire down to your starter is still the same starter solenoid wire.
24:00 that relay isn't intended to be exposed to weather. It will die quickly.
That's the same harness I used on the wife's bagged 62 in a recent video, amazing enough mine was flawless and everything's worked great so far 👌
Good job tron. Making the ls swap understandable for the every day guy who works on cars
10:54 when I did mine, I cut a rectangle hole in the firewall and made a face plate for the ecu that bolted to the firewall over the hole I cut, so the plugs were the only part showing. So if i had to, Id just take the bolts out of the face plate, take out the 2 screws holding the ecu to the face plate and done. Also keeps it dry and less in the elements.
I got a spliced up mess of factory harness with an aftermarket fuse box on my 5.3 obs, wish I would have went this route.
Diggin the dime a dozen build series really something alot of people can do.
For the relay if you hook up the wrong color or just don't like the colors they are using for stuff you can de-pin them and move them around if the wire is the right gauge and you can remove the 87a wire since you aren't using it but I have had the connections fail from corrosion but what I like is you can buy sockets with the terminals it works out cleaner and less extra butt connections
Can’t wait to see this build running, love these low budget builds.
I’ve been watching this channel for years now and you’ve still got the best production quality out there. Love your work man!
That, sir, is a flat out lie but I love to hear it haha
Thank you so much! I just started down the LS rabbit hole and will be swapping out the 5.9L Dodge Magnum in my 1957 Chevy truck for a 2005 5.3 LS from a Chevy Tahoe.
I did the Dodge wiring myself with the help of a factory service manual, since nobody does stand alone harnesses for the Magnum platform. I’ve had it running and driving reliably since 2015, but the transmission is getting to the point where it will need love, and even with the cam I swapped in, the Magnum is limited in what you can do with throwing lots of $$$ at it.
The Dodge drivetrain was a stop-gap when I did the 4wd chassis swap. I didn’t have a GM transmission or transfer case at the time and my budget was limited. I stayed with the good parts from the donor truck and made the most of it. Now I can afford better…
I was going to use Holley Terminator on the project truck that I am building. I went to order the system and found out that the prices have gone up $400. The Max system that I bought 2 years ago cost $1200 that system is now $1600. I will be using the stock computer.
Use a momentary on push button start switch in conjunction with a relay.
Hell yeah glad to see another video on dime a dozen
I can’t wait to see how this eBay cam does. I have it in my cart
Same here!
How did it work out
@@rodriguezluisu87did yours do good
I agree with free for the toggle switches.
If people want to get picky. You can buy a 8 pack of toggle switches from Amazon for 11.99 so 1.50 each and yours are used so I'd say less.
I have used 3 of those exact harnesses, none had oil pressure plug so I use mechanical style gauge. Another weird thing to explain to people is it has the 5 wire plug for MAF and then the LS1 style with separate air temp sensor,
I had to look back at earlier purchases and you're right, none of them had oil pressure either. Totally missed it lol
Pcm hammer it’s free or LS droid check it for n here easy as hell
Usually if you have a maf, you don't have a map, and vice versa. So that harness has map and maf? 7:59
Very impressed with the build and documentation of it.
Great video my man. Very informative for those just learning. You would make a good teacher.
I used PC hammer for tuning. Where I got my motor came on a pallet already running. Just had to keep looking. Lq4 $700. Got buy with it for a while till I found a used terminator.
Can you do a video on what all needs to be removed/changed on a stock ECU to make it swap ready?
You can delete vats an rear o2s with tuner pro an pchammer for free an you can also do a very basic tune
I have an 86 S10 pickup. How did you handle the lights? Headlights, tail lights, turn, brake, etc.
Did u have to cut anything on the blazer to fit the Ls engine?
So the stock ecu will work great, even with a somewhat large cam and 11:1? I want to keep my truck n.a. but I want a good size cam, not big, but good for drags in a truck that I can drive on the street, and do some head work, and try to be at 10.5:1-11:1 on compression. I was going to use my stock harness, but I would go through it at the minimum to find bad wires and what not, so I'm not chasing issues for years. $100 for a new swap harness isn't bad. I'll also need it to work for a 4l60e. Just because that's what the truck has, and should hold 400hp
Now I am watching this and all those earlier model LS motors/Vorteks have an EGR valve and plug. This set up doesn't have it. So how do we get around eliminating the EGR???
Are you going to make a video on how to tune it without the OBD port that’s what I’m trying to figure out for my LS swap in my S-10 blazer
Following! My buddy just picked up a LS swapped 96 Z71. I go to plug in my laptop to tune it. It's the old OBD2 port. And the OBD2 for the LS is no where to be found.
Is there a way to keep the original oil pressure speedo ect on dash ?
Been waiting for the next vid on this project!! Thank you
Don’t forget about tunercat. Cheaper option than hptuners! The driveway Engineer, another fellow Michigander, has videos on this.
Man, I'm so excited to see how this little truck runs but I'm worried about that cam and springs you bought. A guy on here, Powell Machine, did a test on the hardness of the cam, measured lift and duration, as well as tested the springs. The cam was soft as a flat tappet cam, the duration was way more than what it was supposed to be, the lift on the intake side was over .600" and the springs were binding early and didn't have very even pressures.
I pray nothing bad happens because if it'll actually lives, this is a big money saver over buying name brand stuff.
Great video. I've got the same harness, bought it 2nd hand. The prior owner did something to the harness so now I've got no obvious power wire connected to that fuse block.....but he did separate out a red, white and green wire from the harness. The instructions are now no help in figuring out what's up. Can you possibly tell me where that red wire was originally suppose to hook up to in the fuse block? Any thoughts on what the white and green wire might be for? Thanks a million and great video.
Hopefully you get it before the weather changes been not to bad so far
Will my blue and green computer work with this harness if I cut the lil taps on the red side and plug it in
I have a 1992 s10 4x4 blazer with the 4.3 v6 vortec. Will a 2000 5.3 bolt up to the transmission? Also what trans is in it? The 4l60, 4l60e or 700r4?
hey i have an 83 c10 that im thinking about LS swapping. would this work? what all would i have to do in order for it to.
I can't wait to see this thing run
Awesome I’m about to order a harness for mine do you have a link?
If you just search for "LS swap harness" in ebay you'll see a ton of them. Pick the one you trust the most lol
I used this harness 3 times so far and work out great . Only thing I have notice is that there 2 wire that comes out the computer that not use idk why thay do that
On the injector wires from the harness they are green and pink, and the new connectors I have are red and black. What mates with what?
Same harness I’ll be running,along with my eBay cam and springs
How do gages hook up if I want to use my stock gages ?
The two pink wires on the ebay harness ran to the starter are they both positive or is one meant to be a ground?
What did he use for oil pressure sensor since harness didnt come with connecter or did he go mechanical ??
What 3 did you say your not using and shoved under intake
Good point on the stock ecu. Maybe you can do a highlight on he different "ls" ecu's like the 0411 vs the early year or e85 flex tune ones. Just for us lazy folks. I got a 00 sierra but I wanna run a 58x and flex fuel on a cammed 6.2 so I'll need to work to swap the harness. But. I think the stock ecu will work fine for that and I'll run a nitrous box with its own fuel tank (spare battery holder makes for a good 2 gallon tank)
I am wiring a 5.3 ls with the eBay harness to basically a shell it’s from 1935 and I got it with nothing in it so I have no distributor wire and no idea where to tie the red wire into
Enjoy the video,but have a question I made my harness out of scrap ones and been in 02 purgatory ever since .the style I have are the flat plugs I noticed on that harness that there's square what O2 sensor do you have to get for the cheap harness.thanks
Ones for an LS1 car like a 98-02 Camaro. I just get the cheap delphi ones off Rockauto
I haven’t made the jump to the LS yet, I have a LT1 project that I’m going to use the old for 0411 ECM in, basically I’m doing the same thing? I watch as many of your videos as possible I’ve learned a lot. I’M AN OLD GEAR-HEAD I’m slow with wiring. I’m going to start with the 4X setup first then build my courage up an try 24X? 😂. Keep the great videos coming
Heck yeah, man! Thats rad
I have a question and you probably covered it and I wasn't paying attention. Do you still need the solenoid wire to trigger the starter?
Yeah, you'd use the stock chassis wiring for the start if you wanted it to start off the key
Keep up the great work. One more step to starting it up.
Great project, keep up the great work my friend..
Were did you get the ecu?
Cant wait to see the price breakdown on this build…….and then the timeslips…….exciting shit brogham!!!!😊………..i can already see grudge races with jack black in the near future!!!
Yeah, I keep forgetting to include the damn spreadsheet of things! The total right now is $3,480.60 😬
@@SniderTron3000 hell i wouldnt even speak of it untill you get her running, then, Do an actual build/price breakdown video
@@SniderTron3000 what the link to this harness?
All the red blue harnesses I've seen don't run oil pressure it ran strait to the gauge even on the factory trucks.
Man, I feel like I should've noticed that before but I must've just never paid attention to it
This is correct. Pre 03 didn’t provide oil pressure to the PCM it was a 1 wire that went directly to the gauge cluster on the trucks.
I got one of these harnesses a while back when they were $200……works great only for 1 problem, my dash tach will not work unless i pull out the obd2 fuse, the tack works on my scanner thru the obd2 if i have one hooked up or if you do the bluetooth tablet gauge thing…….but if your old school like me you want your dash tach to work……so i just leave the obd2 fuse out , unless i have to use a scanner which is never……wish i would have waited till they were $99…….even though i have a brandnew terminator x sitting in a box next to a new vortech supercharger sitting in the box as well…..i cant tune so i just bite the bullet and put terminator x’s on my cars when i go boosted😅
So if you used the original ecm for a stock 5.3 u still have to unlock the computer???????? If you don't have camshaft swapp or nothing else still have to unlock or tune the computer??????
Yeah, if you're doing a swap you'll need to unlock the ecu to disable the VATS at least
hey man i got a 06 f150 i got my wire harness but im teying to figure out how to wire my dash gauges and fuel pump any idea ???
Can that fuel rail be switched around 180° so the feed, and return are in the front, on the passenger side?
Hmmm good question, I believe the rails look pretty mirror-image from side to side. Found an answer to this yet?
How much power does the intake delete add? 💪
Thank u man! Appreciate your content
Thank you brother this really helps me I'm wanting to get away from my conventional SBC
I hear TunerPro is a good option, and PCM Hammer.
I like that harness, little conflicted with your statement of uncertainty on recommending. Overall though this thing is coming together quick.
I just don't want to say I recommend it and then a bunch of people order it and they all get shit ones that give them tons of issues
I always see it as someone will pay the price high or low. It make sense to have the same part from the same maker scattered around at different prices and making money no matter what
I bought a set of those headers not too long ago and I am still trying to figure out how the hell I am gonna change plugs on the back 4 cylinders. I guess I'll find out won't I.... I will probably put new plugs in because I plan on getting new heads and a cam.
Did you make that pedestal mount for your shifter? Love it!
I bought a ebay harness and it was pinned sooo wrong. Drove me nuts trying to figure out why my motor was backfiring and popping through the intake. Turns out a bunch of sensors where wired wrong
What’s the info on that camper shell???? I need that in my lofe
Not sure, it came with the truck
Love ebay for stuff like this
dose anyone know from where can i buy the 6.0 / 4L80E LS Swap GM 0411 PCM ECM
Late, but from Painless wiring, Summit Racing, PSI Conversions, Salvage Yards, eBay. You can get the 0411 flashed with what you have if it's not correct for your 6.0/4L80E, but you can buy it already from setup for your combo from all the above
I cant find one with a oil pressure sensor
I messed up and bought mine back around spring time. The cheapest one I could find then was $170 shipped. Lol building my Isuzu now the cheapest one is like 90-100 lol
Got a link for the harness you used....
What's the kit you got for the RX7 to stop the overheating For LS
I love your videos! Thanks for the content
I went with BP Automotive harness. 530 bucks.
Link to the harness?
link?
Looking good
Looking good 👍👍
I would've de pinned that relay on the frame so the wiring was red to red instead of red to blue. That bugs me lol
What a bummer that listing doesn't exist anymore, seems like no ebay harness even comes with instructions anymore
Do not mount relays upsidedown water easly get in and not out always conector down on relays
The fiero still not done
Watching this, I had a Starfire flashback... I am staring at the firewall hoping you're going to yank the heater box/core and cover that gaping hole.
Loving this project, I remember that article well... I was 15 when it was published. It gave my broke, part time job ass hope for having a fast hot rod.
I have a stock e85 5.3 ecu
You forgot PC Hammer and Tuner Pro RT!!🤨 There free!
I've never used them actually. I'll have to check them out one of these days
@@SniderTron3000 Yes you should! Like any software they take a bit of getting used too but you can do alot of stuff with them.
Some $50-$100 dollar 862 heads would of bumped the compression up and had nice gains everywhere...
Yes, but being N/A there were some drawbacks to it that I didn't think were worth spending the money for this challenge
if boost is in the near future, I'd could see it... but the 862 head on my lq4 where the best thing I did to the truck. It ran 8.2 in the 1/8th on its first pass... I think it would of ran a high 7 if I wasnt scared of breaking something. 2nd pass I left much harder and broke the rearend...
@@alldabeanzracing9650 I am actually about to swap 706s onto a truck with 317s. True A to B, nothing is changing except for the cylinder heads and adjusting the tune. Same dyno, tuner, etc. I am curious to compare the graphs under the curve.
@@bluecollarhotrods9781 I bet a good 20+ hp everywhere
@@alldabeanzracing9650 the dyno won't lie, I'm honestly expecting about 10 - peak vs. peak. But, if it gets 20... I'll be ecstatic. My main goal is for it to pick up torque in the 3000-5000 RPM range. The engine is an 04 LQ4, XR275 cam, TBSS intake, 92mm TB, headers, exhaust. It's in a 2000 Sierra RCSB.
Pc hammer an tuner pro
I haven't heard of that one. Any good?
@@SniderTron3000 very good. PCM hammer and tuner pro are amazing. Look up Driveway Engineer’s videos, very interesting things you can do with them
@@BrucePearlisAllTheDaddyYouNeed isn’t the using Ls droid and a Bluetooth obd2 plug
@@pjl1919 he did tutorials for both.
I don't have alot of confidence in that driver side header definitely looks way to restricted
gen 3 stuff doesn't report oil pressure to the ECU, only to the BCM and straight to the cluster. I have used at least 10 of these harnesses from different sellers (and different prices) and they all pretty much look the same. P59 style has been good but every P01 harness has needed modification to make the O2 sensors work. They generally wont throw a code but you can see the sensors aren't switching in the scanner preventing closed loop fueling. Check out my channel for a video covering this
P59s can report oil pressure to the ecm. You can tell more or less by the oil pressure sending unit change. Does the pcm do anything with the oil pressure input? No. But you can use a scanner to monitor oil pressure if you keep the sending unit wiring in the harness which I like to do.
I must of missed it and I'm at work kinda can't go back and rewatch what was the price on this harness bubba...Edit: guess I should have watched the entire video before I asked 😂
If you have the factory harness and you clearly are not trying to make it pretty since you can't be bother to clean the heads and valve covers when you had them off just use the factory and cut the trans stuff and rear o2s or whatever else you don't need
I’ll give ya $5 if you show me what wire on this kit is for the tcc.
🤘🏻
You shoulda moved that Joe Byden out of the way. I mean dip stick.
Awso
E