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I stumbled across this when looking for 3D printed exhaust ideas. I would want the exhaust primaries to turn down immediately and allow room for a heat shield to keep the intake manifold cooler.

Will look forward to it

The steering idler still needs room to operate in so factor that in as you don't want the manififold fouling. Not much room in that area.for error. Will look forward to updates

Will do

Thanks

Loving this

Have you added the steering componants into the equation? I could not believe the difference between the Capri GT and Cortina GT manifold as the Cortina one fouls the steering. I need to build a four branch for the Thames..May need some help with that. My mrs says you have a nice aura about you lol

Love old calculations, " The appliance of science". Found this fascinating

Yeah,keep going with the stuff jim,old tool resto is satisfying to do and look at,ive currently got 52 hammer's, it does get additive, but theres help on hand😂

Glad things are back on track mate! Bring on the content…

We’re going to get exhausted of waiting for the exhaust episode. 😁 I think we can stand some episodes with tools restoration as well. Bring it on!

Is the files availiable some where?

Keep plodding on, you will get there.

Good work

Fascinating

Hi Jim. Great content and helping me with my build no end. The anti sqeak. Shims. Where did you get them made

The Capri engine I rebuilt as close to an Allard dragon engine, save for a duplex timing gear. I put steel rocker posts on it but makes it a bit noisier so probably going to go for roller rockers..I still have the odd bit on The Allard stuff. Legendary! Good luck, look forward to updates

I was going to supercharge like the Allardette Anglia I had.. But the C142B cargers are hard to find. And the inlet manifold even more so. I found one once is so rare. I found one on ebay once for £350, nearly bought it. Should of. But what about those crummy electric chargers for a low.boost? Seems if its probably too easy it probably is! Just remember though the old rule. What you change at the top, change at the bottom..On a 1500 block I would be looking at steels mains caps at least especially if you have the rare 122E engine. Worth checking the number on top of the engine mount as the 122E has slighly less support on the mains, having a roundes edge on the journal, not fully supported.The 122E engines are sought after for heritage racing but are rare because unless remidied they failed. You may not be altering the power, but the fuel is now pressurised. Not sure if you put steel mains caps on it allready, but I would advise it.

Really interested how this progresses

Very interesting. Can you mount the cam sensor in the timing chain cover and will have less oil?

Great job, well done 👍

Love the "outro" Jim! 😂 I've got a 1197cc out of an Anglia Super sitting around and I've been considering doing exactly what you plan. I'll be watching with interest.

Hi Jim great build, what engine mount did you use?

Using wet and dry to clean the inside of the cylinder bore is a waste of time! - don't you understand that the piston only seals against the narrow shoulder !!! Yes clean the cylinder walls but really only a wipe is required as it's only a reservoir - not a running fit!

Don't forget to get this o ring - but forget to tell us where to put it!!!

Just crap! Every amateur never learns about filming the subject not the back of the hand - don't these boneheads ever proof read their videos before posting - unbelievable!!

This is proper man shed tech.😂

Imagine what you could have done with a brush!

Impressing work

Nice upload. I love seeing the 3d printwd jigs for fabrication. Currently working on a KZ750 turbo manifold. Im sure this will come in handy. Have a great day!

What is this thing even for?

Love this series! Please keep going! The music is great!🎉

Keep them coming jim,its interesting to see someone having a go at different ideas

Whoa this is awesome

Hi Jim, Nice video - thank you for sharing. One quick question; how did you connect the air hose to the calliper? I have found that simply 'pushing in' an air gun doesn't provide a good enough seal... Cheers, Bert

I don’t think that’s a drawing😭

Keep developing your set of headers. The 4 into 2 into 1 is the best all round until you’re reving past 8,500RPM. Im am looking forward to the fabrication stage and testing. I love the 1600 kent cross flow. 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀☮️

I really like the idea of replacing the 3d printed peices with they actually tubing as you build it. I would love to do the same for a turbo build for a motorcycle.

I need to draw a 3 layer neural network to solve a data engineer problem

You can try lost PLA casting, there is a guy with a TH-cam channel, where he shows how to use a microwave oven for burning out PLA from moulds, melt metal, and how to vacuum cast.

No need to overthink it really given the head design and how they ran just fine on carbs spraying at odd angles.

Good job. the best place to put the injector is about 100mm away from the intake valve ie. Standoff injection

My instinct says to point the injector as far as reasonably possible at the back of the inlet valve. Often with stuff like this the overriding factors are practical considerations with regard to manufacture and packaging.

anarchadia.blogspot.com/2008/12/vintage-thing-no37-mae-head-modified.html?m=1

Hi

Can you not drill the injectors directly in the head like for the screamer motor used to drill the carb mounts directly and close the original ports

Exciting project you are working on. Have you included the air flow in the calculation when you set the angle of the nozzles?

Thank you for posting this video, my father had one and we used to love our day trips to Hastings through the Blackwall tunnel from Dunstable. We would leave at 5am in the morning and have a tartan rug and a huge red flask of sweet tea. Very happy days!!

Well well well…