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Y I sttick to gas powered saws . MORE RELIABLE

Im definitely not a fan of those half and half setups and definitely hate those snap together rails. Usually with the snap together rails i grease the ends before snap together to prevent creaking sounds. The new photoeye brackets are definitely not as good as the originals they bend really easy and don't stay clipped to the track. Belt drives are definitely the way to go if the client has the budget

Two rookie mistakes, right there, climbing the ladder backwards and touching the nice white ceiling🤣🤷‍♂️. We all gotta start somewhere and we’ve all done it

I didn't know they made commercial bottom fixtures with the locking nubs on them, thats a great thing clopay has, I've heard of so many people taking the bottom fixture screws out without unwinding the springs. The liar liar skit was hilarious

i died a little inside when i saw the cable around the jamb bracket 😂😂😭😭

Instead of that dinky tapcon holding the track clip at the bottom you should equip yourself with 1/4" simpson titen hd or dewalt screw bolt + screw anchors. (Tapcon brand calls them 5/16") the simpson and dewalt you can buy im better quantities for reasonable price. You drill 1/4" but its 5/16" size of thread jus like the lags you use. We use 1/4" and 3/8" screw anchors for everything and of course with even bigger doors you go 1/2". They work great. Havent used sleeve anchors in years. O and specifically either of those 2 name anchors. Stay away from blue tip ones

Wow that spring line just clears the ceiling! I usually do it left drum first, vice grip, then right drum, then wind springs. I also use those boxes of angle a lot, unless I run into an unusually tall ceiling but they're a better value than buying single pieces separately, hell I got a new box of that i found at a garage sale last summer, brand new never opened, for a buck! Needless to say i scooped that up lol and man Cora's really growing up!

so I start on the Left drum and cable with vice grip, move to the right and do the same. Then right spring and left spring,take of vice grip and that’s it.

Would you have the pics or instructions on how you were going to add a double seal on the door you mentioned, in the first segment of your video?

Dave, I sent you an email that was provided about this video

Most the time I do the vice grip method and if its a nice finished garage i cut a piece of cardboard to rest the grips on

I wind them the exact same as you with bars or the surewinder.

I set my drums first then wind the spring. I've done it the way you do it and it's in my toolbag of knowledge. I don't like having my fingers close to anything with tension until I have to so I just leave that part till the end. That's also how I was taught and what I've perfected and feel comfortable with. I tell and show my new guys that there is multiple different ways to get to the same result and the best way depends entirely on the job. The important part is understanding how the system works and pinpointing the danger zones.

Back in the olden days, lol when I used to use winding bars, I did it the way you’re doing it saves the step of using the vice grips

And the roller hinges for a 10' tall door would be 1, 2, 3, 3, 4. They get duplicated in this case since the hinges are designed for 24" spacing, and as this door only has 18 and 21 inch sections, they duplicate the 3 hinges so the rollers best hit the middle of the vertical tracks.

I've heard it's best to put the bigger sections on the top but other than that I'm not sure of the order.

Informative.. No "T" in across.

Just wondering what kind of operators they are going with those doors trolly? That light in the middle of the ceiling looks like it lines up with the middle of the door it’s hard to tell from the video but is it far enough back to clear both operators?

I feel for you Dave clopay is never a good time and I like the loose jamb brackets because I can set the door my way the fixed brackets are always way to loose doors do not need a half inch of play from the jamb it’s kind of lazy in my opinion real door guys should know how to set a door to the jamb the company I bought out always ordered riveted jamb brackets and I put a stop to that and it sucks for old installs if something is not right you need to drill out and adjust I do no on my bigger commercial doors they will double hinge numbers like 1 panel 3 2 panel 3 3 panel 4 4 panel 4 and so on so that would cover 4 panels

It’s a five panel door. I’m assuming you got 3-20s. and 2-18. The 18” go in row 2 and 4

18" panels are so short they don't need as much offset. They should use 3.5 then 4 but they don't have half hinges as far as I'm aware. I use this method of double 2 and or double 3 when using (6) 18'' panels on a 9ft door. Also on the other end of the spectrum, on the Amarr classica doors that have 32'' panels ill start with a #2 hinge because the angle of the vertical track needs more hinge offset. But what do I know I've only been stacking doors 16 years 🤣🤣

And why should it matter what hinges are on a level so long as they align ?

If you get a used door, no instructions, and have to cut in the opening, to the wall, how do you calculate the RO?

Black?? Getting all that radiant passive solar heat for the winter. Summer too. That will peel skin if it gets hot enough

Our company started selling colpay doors cause they had better pricing and after numerous screw ups on their end (hardware, poor paint quality and just plain crappy pans that dent easily) we canceled all orders and went back to selling HAAS and CHI.

copay screwing the pooch. The sds drills work the best and Goof off works good for taking the sticker residue off.

Dave sometimes doors will go 1, 2, 3, 3, 4 If I receive that from the factory, I wouldn’t think they messed something up. That’s how I would install it.

I’m not sure why people order tracks with the brackets loose, Whoever is ordering from Clopay only has to click a button and they will come riveted on from the factory🤣🤣

What’s your favorite brand of nylon rollers?

I just recommend the milwaukee nail guns to a buddy a week ago. Since mine have ran great for the past year. 2 days ago my narrow crown stapler did this exact issue. 😢 What is the best battery operated nail gun? Is not dewalt they only lasted a year.

I’d reuse the t rail from the liftmaster instead of the square rail

I just spent 1500 on a course. Basically all the stuff that’s free on TH-cam is on the course. Not mad I did the course but you can find the stuff on TH-cam. Even more things in TH-cam that aren’t in the course

The old opener probably had a bad RPM sensor. The chain drives definitely get more stripped gears in them. But the belts can also dry rot and crumble over the years, so they both have their own failure points. they went away from those sensor brackets with just the single clip. A jackshaft I put up recently came with the better type. As for why the opener bypasses the limit, I'm not 100% sure on this but it might be the opener trying to compensate for the motor drifting a bit after it shuts off. I wish they had a way to fine tune the limits. One of the reasons i like genie and Linear better.

i hope someday LM changes their programming procedure. having to re do the entire process just to get the door to close/open a tiny bit more can be such a hassle. part of the reason i've been likin throwing up genies instead

So far I’ve only had to use blue but ya I only use to get a door working until I get back there with correct springs I’ll let them know it a temporary repair

Hey man quick question where do you advertise to get most of your clients ?

I noticed you didn't have much down pressure on the door while setting the limits. in my experience, that opener always subtracts a quarter inch of travel or so. When I set limits, I set them just over where I want it.

That liftmaster spring had me cracking up. I've made a tool to reset those made of hardware out of a liftmaster gear kit, a washer and a bolt.

Those new chamberlains are okay so far did another 8 footer the other day

Yes I would check/clean the RPM sensor on the Liftmaster. I hate the new uni brackets I always cut the extra piece of the arm off the sticks below.

Hey Dave I love your work but there is a big mistake you did in this video that costed you a lot of time. You didn't have to replace the rail, the holes on the top of the machine are reverse compatible and older models of ops. If you were to reuse the old rail, you would have not gone through the trouble of assembling the rail and worrying about clearance. Because the one piece T-rail is well one piece no bumps for added noise and it's much more solid on heavy doors. Another pro to this is how now you don't have this massive stick of metal to load up and dispose of, so all you got to remove is a old old head. I hope this constructive criticism helped, I'm also curious why you did not reuse the old rail.

On the new style opener, I just have to deal with the down limit and give it a little pressure and tight. The door is closed tight. Dont want to leave it loose open. Just have to double check before the job is done!

I like the old bracket better too. On that wall button there is a small button on the side that will turn the light on and off.

Man Chevy Tahoe trump signs this is my type of job!

I’ve had a few Milwaukee tools repaired for free locally.

No tools these days are made to last,no matter what brand. I have a Dewalt recip saw in a metal case from 1990 and still going strong. I’ve destroyed many modern tool in every brand.

Thanks, Dave. I can't get anyone worth a hoot here because I'm in the Hills. The door had already been repaired when we bought the place in 2018, so you can see the work they do. I thought the door needed better stiffening - I'll buy the 3" before I install the trolley bracket. Thanks to all who offered comments and suggestions! Oh, sorry for being crude (I guess it is my nature)...