The old opener probably had a bad RPM sensor. The chain drives definitely get more stripped gears in them. But the belts can also dry rot and crumble over the years, so they both have their own failure points. they went away from those sensor brackets with just the single clip. A jackshaft I put up recently came with the better type. As for why the opener bypasses the limit, I'm not 100% sure on this but it might be the opener trying to compensate for the motor drifting a bit after it shuts off. I wish they had a way to fine tune the limits. One of the reasons i like genie and Linear better.
On the new style opener, I just have to deal with the down limit and give it a little pressure and tight. The door is closed tight. Dont want to leave it loose open. Just have to double check before the job is done!
I noticed you didn't have much down pressure on the door while setting the limits. in my experience, that opener always subtracts a quarter inch of travel or so. When I set limits, I set them just over where I want it.
So this is not a normal scenario but we don’t advertise. We do have are place on google like most businesses. We are about 75% commercial and with that we have about 75% of most of the commercial customers in are area. So the just keep breaking things and expanding and we have more work then sometimes we can handle. It’s a blessing that we don’t have to play the advertising game anymore. It’s tough and sometimes not fair. 18+ years in business people get to know you and you learn a thing or 2 on the way. Cheers 🍻
i hope someday LM changes their programming procedure. having to re do the entire process just to get the door to close/open a tiny bit more can be such a hassle. part of the reason i've been likin throwing up genies instead
Im definitely not a fan of those half and half setups and definitely hate those snap together rails. Usually with the snap together rails i grease the ends before snap together to prevent creaking sounds. The new photoeye brackets are definitely not as good as the originals they bend really easy and don't stay clipped to the track. Belt drives are definitely the way to go if the client has the budget
Hey Dave I love your work but there is a big mistake you did in this video that costed you a lot of time. You didn't have to replace the rail, the holes on the top of the machine are reverse compatible and older models of ops. If you were to reuse the old rail, you would have not gone through the trouble of assembling the rail and worrying about clearance. Because the one piece T-rail is well one piece no bumps for added noise and it's much more solid on heavy doors. Another pro to this is how now you don't have this massive stick of metal to load up and dispose of, so all you got to remove is a old old head. I hope this constructive criticism helped, I'm also curious why you did not reuse the old rail.
I like the old bracket better too. On that wall button there is a small button on the side that will turn the light on and off.
Those new chamberlains are okay so far did another 8 footer the other day
Man Chevy Tahoe trump signs this is my type of job!
That liftmaster spring had me cracking up. I've made a tool to reset those made of hardware out of a liftmaster gear kit, a washer and a bolt.
I was super embarrassed. I couldn’t believe I didn’t catch it with the wrench 🔧 not fitting lol
Yes I would check/clean the RPM sensor on the Liftmaster.
I hate the new uni brackets
I always cut the extra piece of the arm off the sticks below.
Good recommendation on cutting the arm stub.
I’d reuse the t rail from the liftmaster instead of the square rail
Someone else said that. Not a bad idea I just wanted everything fresh and new.
The old opener probably had a bad RPM sensor.
The chain drives definitely get more stripped gears in them. But the belts can also dry rot and crumble over the years, so they both have their own failure points.
they went away from those sensor brackets with just the single clip. A jackshaft I put up recently came with the better type.
As for why the opener bypasses the limit, I'm not 100% sure on this but it might be the opener trying to compensate for the motor drifting a bit after it shuts off. I wish they had a way to fine tune the limits. One of the reasons i like genie and Linear better.
Thanks Andy I learn A ton from you. Great info as always. I totally agree with you as well.
On the new style opener, I just have to deal with the down limit and give it a little pressure and tight. The door is closed tight. Dont want to leave it loose open. Just have to double check before the job is done!
So true.
@@affordabledoorgatellc7391 👍
I noticed you didn't have much down pressure on the door while setting the limits. in my experience, that opener always subtracts a quarter inch of travel or so. When I set limits, I set them just over where I want it.
All true. I just wish it would stay where I set it so I was in control. Up limit seems to always be fine. It’s always the down that’s the problem.
Hey man quick question where do you advertise to get most of your clients ?
So this is not a normal scenario but we don’t advertise. We do have are place on google like most businesses. We are about 75% commercial and with that we have about 75% of most of the commercial customers in are area. So the just keep breaking things and expanding and we have more work then sometimes we can handle. It’s a blessing that we don’t have to play the advertising game anymore. It’s tough and sometimes not fair. 18+ years in business people get to know you and you learn a thing or 2 on the way. Cheers 🍻
i hope someday LM changes their programming procedure. having to re do the entire process just to get the door to close/open a tiny bit more can be such a hassle. part of the reason i've been likin throwing up genies instead
I totally agree.
Im definitely not a fan of those half and half setups and definitely hate those snap together rails. Usually with the snap together rails i grease the ends before snap together to prevent creaking sounds. The new photoeye brackets are definitely not as good as the originals they bend really easy and don't stay clipped to the track. Belt drives are definitely the way to go if the client has the budget
Good idea on the grease never thought of that.
Hey Dave I love your work but there is a big mistake you did in this video that costed you a lot of time. You didn't have to replace the rail, the holes on the top of the machine are reverse compatible and older models of ops. If you were to reuse the old rail, you would have not gone through the trouble of assembling the rail and worrying about clearance. Because the one piece T-rail is well one piece no bumps for added noise and it's much more solid on heavy doors. Another pro to this is how now you don't have this massive stick of metal to load up and dispose of, so all you got to remove is a old old head. I hope this constructive criticism helped, I'm also curious why you did not reuse the old rail.