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No worries at all, thanks for the comment.

The EP91 Glanza and EP82 Starlet gt turbo use the same IACV with a 2 wire connector. The EP91 Starlet with 4efe engine has a IACV with a 3 wire connector.

No problem, thanks for the comment.

There should be no loss from the coolant system at all. If the carpet is wet then you should see the drip at the heater matrix pipe join. Also the coolant header tank can crack underneath, leaking into the engine bay and the header tank cap has o-rings to seal and these can also wear or get damaged.

@@dan91sgarage I've just changed the degas hose and expansion tank, the o ring near foot well is leaking, but it doesn't seem enough leak to be why the floor is so wet

I would estimate somewhere between 130-150 crank hp with this setup. Never got the chance to dyno it.

All I can say is to make sure that you have plugged the speedometer cable back in properley. Fully seated until the retaining clip snaps onto the groove.

@@dan91sgarage yeah it heard it click in n got nervous when it was back tougher it wasnt working but its fine and i was over reacting gotta take it out again to put 2 t5 bulbs in for the left n right side now

The iacv has already been sold.

😁 Thanks for the comment and sub. Always start with the vents behind the bumper, then check out the other stuff.

next dry day i get where im at i will be sure to do that. thanks brother​@dan91sgarage

As far as i know when you choose a trigger pattern type of 60-2 it understands the number of signals from the tooth pattern on the wheel and doesn't use the input in the 720 box below which is why it is greyed out in the software and can't be changed. Choosing 60-2 in the first box tells it that there will be a pulse every 6 deg and a "gap" of 12 deg at "tdc". It knows 1 revolution is the missing teeth gap. The 720 signal box info is more for ignition module setups that could be any number of cylinders or it can't understand rpm. Only able to change this box info when you select that ignition type at the top pull down.

@@dan91sgarage Ok, got it. So, the number of signals is the number of ignition signals right?, not the number of signals the sensor puts out (0v, 5v)? I am guessing in your case is 4 because you have it hooked up to the crankshaft sensor?. I have a jimny cabrio 2000, with OBD1, this is why I need to use the ECU piggy back, and also it does not have a CKP sensor.

@@drzakk Mine is connected to the spark signal from the ecu to the ignition module in the distributor. Do you have the G13bb engine or M13A?

@@dan91sgarage Hello, thank you for the answer. I have the G13bb, and I can't get the DET3 to intercept the ignition signal. When I put the camshaft sensor signal through the DET3 ( I have it from sensor signal to ign. in and from DET3 ign. out to ECU) the car does not start. When I hook it back to the factory ECU but splice the cable and hook it to the ign. in, it does start, and I do get the RPM readings, and in scope mode I can see the signals. Of course I still cant modify the signal because it is just spliced to the ign. in, it was just a test to see if it even read the input and it does, but once I put the signal through the DET3 the car does not start, not even in scope mode.

@@drzakk What ignition settings are you using in the det 3 menu?

Part numbers are in the description, easy to find on eBay. Not too difficult to pull them apart. There is a clamp to undo in the engine bay to allow easier movement of pipes as shown in video.

The easiest way to figure it out is to compare the plastic circuit board on the back of the original clocks and new clocks. Trace down from the contact at the top to the bulb/gauge its connected to and compare. If the contacts go to different bulbs / gauges on the clocks then you need to write down the wire contacts purpose on paper for both sets and then move the necessary wires to the correct location. Not difficult, just takes time.

I've never liked these magic liquid sealants. If you're stuck in the middle of the desert and have no other choice then I guess I would. But it's not a hard jod to do properley with changing the o-rings, so that's all I would do to my cars.

Sure, you can dm me on instagram @dan91sgarage

You're welcome. Thanks for the comment.

No, mine are fine as shown in the video. There are 2 sets of temperature gauge wires. If you don't put the unused set on the "blank" contacts on the plug they will cause the gauge to go to max. And can cause problems with the fuel gauge too.

@@dan91sgaragedoesn’t go to max but sits at 3/4 of the way since old owner put these clocks in… jsut fitted new rad as well as thermostat and got temp sensor and fan switch on the way too

Without knowing how it was wired or how it's been tuned I'll do my best. Have you removed fuel using the fuel table? Mine did this when the MAP sensor out put voltage was too low and the Toyota ECU performed a safety cut (like a rev limiter). Are you trying to make it leaner to pass the test? See this vid: th-cam.com/video/ZUWqCMIKNTI/w-d-xo.html

@@dan91sgarage I have it wired in exactly as your own videos, I’ve been creating a tune so there is areas with fuel added/taken out, trying to lean it out a bit

@@dan91sgarage it seems to be when I take out fuel from that part of the table it causes a fuel cut so there’s no way to get the air fuel ratio to where I need it without causing a fuel cut

@@finnq4980 What size injectors are you using? And is it stock fuel pressure? What AFR are you trying to acheive? Do you have the Toyota narrowband O2 sensor connected with a switch like I did? Do you have a catalytic converter installed?

@@dan91sgarageI’m using 4efte injectors, have standard fuel pressure, I do have the narrowband on a switch the same way as you but it seems to make no difference, trying to achieve 14.7/1 ratio at 3k rpm -0.75/-.08 bar boost, do have a cat in the car but after the two sensors

Thank you 🙏

Thanks. Yes gen 3 4efe in the e11 corolla is wasted spark with conventional crank trigger setup. I haven't done it myself, but I think there are 2 options. Either use the crank trigger sensor signal, or if you look at the det 3 software there is an option in ignition configuration to "Retard two ignition module signals" in the pull down menu. "This ignition mode is suitable for retarding two ignition module signals. Using this mode freqency input/output is used for second signal. All freqency functions are disable." I think this option is for 2 coil setups, there is no listing/description for it in the det 3 instructions though so it must be a newer feature. The IGF signal is for feedback to Toyota ECU for check engine/trouble codes, it is useless to control anything so can be ignored. If you're going with the second option, please double check with ecumaster regarding its intended use. And when installed feedback to this comment will help others too. 😉

Ok so ive had a quick reply from Ecu masters. So there saying that they have no experiance with this specific engine so they dont have a prescise solution. But they go on to say the det3 has the capability to drive 2 seperate ignition modules. They have suplied a causionary wiring diagrm which is used with the mx-5 engine which runs 2 ignition modules. Unfortunatly im unable to post up any diagram so ill have to right it up. So ill start with det3 pin connection then into either ignition, ecu or maf. det3 no. 1 +12v to ecu +12v det3 no.3 pullup connects to det3 no.9 to ecu ign. module output 1 det3 no.6 ignition out to ignition module 1 det3 no.7 frequency out to ignition module 2 det3 no.8 connects to det3 no.10 frequency in to ecu ignition module output 2 det3 no.11 ground to ecu ground det3 no13 analog in no.1 to maf sensor det3 no.17 analog out to ecu maf sensor happy to ping diagram, just message

@@dj-cor659 Good job. Thanks for taking the time to post. The corolla has a 1 bar map sensor, if you are going turbo you will be using the det 3+ internal map sensor for load and modify fuelling. 👍

@@dan91sgarage Yes ive ordered the 4 bar version. Will trawl the mx5 forums to see how they faired with the above set up. When installed and running will update. Thanks for your input 👍

More info from ECU Master How to connect DET3 to MX5 1.6 - 1.8 engine with two ignition modules. Warning: Before connecting DET3 to the ECU read this manual carefully, otherwise You can damage ignition coils or ECU. DET3 allow retard ignition angle, by delaying coil charge and spark release signal from ECU to ignition module. Each channel from ECU is connected to DET3 input, and modified signal is send from DET3 to ignition module in coils. When signal from ECU is grounded (falling edge), coil is charged, and spark released when signal is returning from ground to 12V (rising edge). DET3 is using one frequency output to generate signal. Default settings in DET3 for frequency out is low side signal (ground). This will cause coil charge just after power supply is applied to ECU and DET3. To long coil charge overheat coil, and as a result permanent damage of one coil. To prevent of damages fallow steps: 1) Locate ignition coils (rear of the engine) 2) Disconnect both coils plugs 3) Disconnect ECU connector. 4) Check continuity of wires between 1G and 1H terminals in ECU and coils plug with multimeter 5) Connect DET3 as it fallows in wiring 6) Double check coils wiring 7) Connect ECU plug and turn ignition on 8) Connect to the DET3 with laptop and change settings in ignition section 9) Save changes to DET3 DET3 piggyback mode 10) Turn off ignition and turn on, open ignition section in DET3 and check if setting are saved 11) Triple time check wiring from DET3 to ignition coils. 12) With ignition turned off connect ignition coils plug and try to start the engine DET3 FIT mode (firmware) 11) Setup all settings in : General settings Injector settings boost parameters 12) Turn off ignition and turn on, open ignition section in DET3 and check if setting are saved 13) Triple time check wiring from DET3 to ignition coils 14) With ignition turned off connect ignition coils plug and try to start the engine

I bought them direct from Ford. I have listed the part numbers in the video description. Some people have bought them from eBay or Amazon as well. And another guy in the comments has listed the sizes for generic o-rings too. Good luck friend

It depends on your definition of stock NA build really. If you're just looking for extra power on an otherwise stock engine, then the corolla manifold is an excellent choice. No other mods necessary although a det 3+ is always going to help as you can then adjust timing/fuel but it won't be a huge amount of bhp gain from the det3 NA. The manifold just bolts on, no welding etc. If your building a full on race NA (head work, cams, lightened and balanced rotating assembly, high comp etc...) the manifold choice may differ if your going to rev it to eleventy thousand rpm lol.

Glad it helped, thanks for the comment

If the rev counter clocks are from a 98-99 model then yes it will be plug and play for a UK 99 se. If the rev counter clocks are from a 96-97 model then no.

No problem, thanks for the comment, it really means a lot. 👍

Not normal as far as I know. Do you mean beep as in a buzzer noise? Or 5 flashes from the check engine light? Maybe it has an alarm or immobiliser fitted?

There is no check engine light (which does work) Ahh just worked it out 🙄.. When I turn on the car, there is one beep from the radio turning on and then 5 beeps when it turns off.. (el cheapo Pioneer, already in car). So all good on that front 👍 And Cheers for the reply 👍

The square end of the cable drive or the spedometer mechanism itself is probably worn out. Or the cable drive hasn't been connected properly.

Yes. They will be as hot as the coolant in the radiator/engine.

You are very welcome, thanks for the comment.

My gut feeling is that will be a temporary solution followed by an upsetting surprise. Fingers crossed dude.

I have the wiring diagrams for 96-97 and 98-99 RHD 4efe Starlets. Contact me on instagram if you want.