@@dan91sgarage it going to be okay, probably no time to fit the det3. Coz as I can see is alot of time consuming. It will be done when the championship end . Your videos helps alot. Keep up.
Good day sir, I have the same stuttering problem for my 3zz fe( 8:15 ). I tried the 1.1V limit but it doesnt work how did you figure out what the limits are? Thanks in advance
I just selected all the cells in the fuel table and pressed the throttle until it rev cut. Then I increased the number of points in the cells (+ button on keyboard) until it stopped cutting. Then read the voltage on the analogue out display or datalog. Input min voltage to analogue output configuration.
My 2azfe blew up twice lol, it has high compression pistons and cold air intake and bc bearing set. First time it blew was cuz it burned so much oil, second time bearings spun. Now i plan on getting the Det3 for my 201 Kia Soul so I can tune with bigger injectors and low compression pistons for turbocharging.
So ,man your explaining very good ,but i supposedly bumped upon a engine repair with some forged conrods But because i live in east europe i have to wait some days for the parts to appear ... And everything i have now is to wait for the parts and some place to tune the car Gotta watch again all the videos related to the tuning and connecting the det3 Thx for the work you've done
Good day Dan. Thanks for your Awesome videos on setting up the ECUMaster Det 3 +. With limited tuning knowledge I was able to setup a base map and even get into tuning and also electronic boost control. I would like to ask a question. I am trying to setup the Launch control but there is limited information on how to get it done. Would you be able to guide me through it.
Now that I have the software downloaded and am playing with it-this question for you Dan: So, my car has a 1 bar sensor (n/a). I've turbo'd it, and am installing the det3+. I've watched all of your det3 install vids (except wire-in because mine isn't a starlet and doesn't apply for specific cavites of the ecu). I will watch that as well when the time comes to actually wire mine in for the tips that are there. Since I am using the det3+ with the built in 4 bar, and my vehicle has a map sensor that is only 1 bar, when choosing 'modify' and 'load' for fuel and ignition in 'setup tables', I'm suspecting they both need to have selected the 'det3 400kpa', correct? I thought perhaps the stock 1bar sensor needed to be 'load' but it doesn't go past 14.7 atmospheric, so what's the point? Lil help here for this texan please :)
Yes, you need to use analogue input 2 (built in 4 bar map sensor) as the modify and load signal for the fuel and ignition maps in the setup tables menu. As you quite rightly say the 1 bar map sensor will not read any boost. Don't forget to change the scales in the scales configuration menu and save them as the default project as well or it will display its default scales which are not related to the sensors you've chosen to hook into.
Great video Dan, i have a question for you.. I’m running my det3 on piggyback mode, i would like to install a switch to switch between 2 table settings. 1 with meth and timing advance and the other table with no meth and standard timing. How do you set this up on the det3 in the programming? And would you take a permanent 12v and the switch 12v from pin 2 to wire the switch allowing the maps to switch over. Hope you can help me. Thank you🤞
@adamfoster2579 The map switch wiring is: wire connected from pin 2 of det3 to a toggle switch, wire from other side of toggle switch to ground (earth). The switch changes between 2 independant table sets (fuel, 2 x pwm and ignition tables). One set of tables will have standard timing and the other will have advanced timing. Triggering the meth to only work when the advanced timing map set has been chosen can be done a few ways. Is the car n/a or forced induction? Which water meth are you using snow, AEM, devils own?
@@dan91sgarage thank you, supercharged corolla t sport compressor running a aem wmi kit. I have the water meth on a kill switch not linked to the det. The progressive controller is linked to the injector duty signal. What im planning on, is when I run out of wmi liquid on a drive I can switch tables to standard timing with a little more fuel added and wmi off. So when the pin sees an Earth connection it switches the map? How do I go about programming the tables to switch on the det3? Thank you so much for getting back to me👍
@@adamfoster2579 Yes, when the wire from pin 2 sees earth it switches maps. At the bottom of the det 3 computer programme it says current map set=0 and current map set=1 when switched. When you save the project and make maps save to det 3 it only saves the current map set you are working on so be aware of that. As far as programming goes there isn't really any setup menu's to configure to allow map switching, it's always there waiting for the signal on pin 2. Tuning the fuel required for meth/no meth maps is relatively easy with a wideband and datalogging in the det3 (shown in video). The ignition is the dangerous part and in my opinion should only be mapped on the safe environment of a dyno to know when you are reaching knock limit on meth. If it were my car I would probably trigger the meth from the manifold pressure as this is how most forced induction setups are triggered. Some water meth controllers also have a warning output when they run out of liquid, it may be possible to use this signal to power a relay that has the pin2 - earth connection on the switched side to automatically switch maps for safety. Might not be possible this way, but it was fun to think about! 👍. Toggle switch is way easier though. No worries, don't forget to like and subscribe!
@@dan91sgaragethank you, Ill go with the toggle switch option aha. I am using a aem AFR gauge to map fuel so that’s all good. Been messing around with the det3 for over a year now and been running the WMI for 4 or so months. It’s going well. When the fluid gets low on the level sensor I have it triggering a 12v piezo sounder in the dash so I know the fluids low then not thrashing it after that. So when I get this maps switch installed when I run out of fluid I’ll be able to kill the WMI with my killswitch then switch to the normal ignition tables and a mapped fuel table putting in more fuel to allow for what the meth was doing. I’m running 66% water and 33% meth. It’s mainly for cooling. I’m using 220cc injectors I think I can’t remember now, 1 before supercharger and 1 after. There is no intercooler on my setup and wmi was the easier option that putting a intercooler in and changing all pipework. The cars a Toyota Corolla compressor. Ill get this switch done in the next week or few days. Ill let you know if I succeed. I should do😄
Hello Dan, thanks for your videos, it helps me a lot with the build :) I want to ask about the injectors, mine has a resistance of 14.5 ohm and the new one I put in is 12 ohm. Do I need to add 2.5 ohm resistors to the wiring to compensate for the new injectors?
EFi fuel injectors fall into 2 categories: Low impedance (1.5 - 4 ohm) and High impedance (8-16ohm). So, as the injectors are both in the High impedance category it's fine without the resistor.
It depends on the other modifications the vehicle has. If it's stock apart from the piggyback det 3, the car will start, run and drive as normal without any det 3 fuel / ignition mapping. If it has larger fuel injectors and a turbo conversion, the car will start and run (poorly due to the larger fuel injectors) and can be loaded to take to a tuner but shouldn't be driven normally without some fuel / ignition mapping. A standalone ecu or the det 3 in fuel implant mode controls the fuel injection completely and the car won't start or run without "base maps". On a piggyback setup you can think of the toyota ECU as the "base maps" and use the det 3 to tweak them. Hope this helps.👍
Dan, greetings sir! If I can trouble you again. The stock injectors on my car is 195cc/min. For years now, the 240cc/min injectors I swapped over with no engine management starts and runs fine, but has rich codes of course. I'm going to run close to 350hp with an increase in boost. I will be installing 550cc/min injectors for that with the DET3. To be clear, once I wire in the DET3 (my saturn I've bothered you with before), is it a matter of going into my tabels and using negative numbers to remove that 180% increase in fuel over the stock. My goal then would to have crisp, correct start up trims but have the fuel flow everywhere else for that 350hp.
If your fitting the det 3+ at the same time as the 550cc injectors the fuel table will be empty so you'll have to tune it from scratch. The numbers in the table aren't a percentage they are step * a voltage that you add or subtract from the original map sensor signal voltage. I don't think you can "shortcut" it. Doesn't take a huge amount of time really.
@@dan91sgarage thank you for the quick reply dan! Yes sir I know its a voltage calculation but was figuring with that large of a change from stock (% size increase) coukd the det3 pulldown the pulsewidth low enough to make for a clean cold start and idle. Sounds like it can. I very much appreciate having your experience available. I am really looking forward to your next project!
@@kurtbennett1164 When using a det 3 (or any other intercepter style ecu) in piggyback mode it doesn't control the injectors (pusle width) directly. It "adjusts" the vehicle load signal (MAP, MAF,) to trick the vehicle ecu into lowering / raising the fuel injector delivery. If the injectors are too big for the intended power (at a safe duty cycle) you will have to adjust down a lot. Some vehicle ecu's have safety "boost" cuts, so adding or subtracting too much voltage may cause "limp" mode (my Starlet had a low voltage cut at less than 1v and a high voltage cut over 4.6v!) All I can say is you will learn a lot when you get the kit installed on this particular vehicle.
Hey dan thanks for the awsome vid i have the det3+ hooked up to my 2009 kia rio i have hooked up the map sensor and my afr gauge but i can only see analog input 1 and it wont show me the rest is there any tips?
Hey Dan, for the corrections (AFR, Bar) for the Fuel table the 100% values are essentially not modifying the main table right? Do you know if you put in let's say 110% and were modifying the max 127 value in the table, would hat take effect? Basically, can you go past the max 127 value using the corrections?
The 2D correction1 and correction2 value percentage is added to the Analogue out value from the Main fuel table cell. "The output value of the modified analog signal for fuel table is calculated on the following basis: Vout = (TableValue * Vstep + Vin + analogOutOffset) * correction1 * correction2" So yes, you can use the 2D corrections to increase the Analogue out voltage past the value the 127 steps creates but this is not their intended purpose. They are to influence the Fuelling with a different sensor than the "Modify" sensor used for the main Table. If you've run out of steps and need more fuel, but don't need to use a different sensor, you can try increasing the Step voltage value to 0.0195v this gives higher voltage per step, or larger injectors / higher fuel pressure. Total output can never be more then boost cut or 5V
@@dan91sgarage Thanks dude. Thinking about it more, I have only positive values in my fuel table so I think I'll use the offset and set minus values in the bottom left.
You can also add or subtract a fixed amount of voltage (fuel) to the Analogue out signal using the Analogue out Offset, this is also independent of the Fuel table 127 steps. And doesn't use a sensor like 2D corrections table. "Analog Out Offset - constant offset added to analogue output voltage." On my setup I added +1.25v in the analogue out offset, because the 4bar map voltage is quite low per bar and I was adding shedloads of steps for fuel on boost and removing very little N/A in the main fuel table.
since youve used this piggyback ECU would you recomend it for a car that is near tripling the HP with a turbo, or would you recomend just getting a full stand alone for more control over the engine.
@dillonlee3229 . In that particular case I would go with full standalone. Nothing wrong with the det 3 for certain applications, however I would want better control. If you switch to a standalone you can also run full sequential fuel injection (some factory cars are batch fired) and also choose to upgrade to c.o.p. and direct fire etc. with a new loom / cam trigger if you want. I like the look of Maxx mini (4 pot) or ecumaster classic (6 pot). Other ecu's are available ;-)
@@dan91sgarage thank you yeah i was hoping i could get away with a piggy back to save on the cost, but the standalon will allow better control and more options like wideband sensols.
Hi Dan. Thanks for these videos, they're great. I am interested in using one of these in a modified Endura engine Ford KA. The OEM ECU has an electronic rev limit of just over 5000rpm. Is there a way this unit could overcome / trick the ECU to ignore/overwrite this rev limit do you know?
If the rev limit is done as a fuel cut using the injectors, you could install the det 3 in fuel implant mode as the det3 will then have full control of the injectors. If it is done through the ignition side of things then you would have to go standalone ecu and replace the oem ecu completely.
Good day Dan I have been following your channel for some time now. I have a starlet Glanza 4EFTE with the Auto ECU which has since been converted to a manual. I installed the ECUMASTER det3 as you have done but the car won't start. I need some help getting it started.
@@ryanauguste5850 It's very difficult to remote diagnose the problem so I'll just rattle off what I can think of. Obviously the wiring for the 4efte ecu is going to be different to the 4efe in my car so I'll assume you've used the correct wires from a 4efte pinout to connect your det3 to. Download the det3 laptop drivers from ecumaster. Update the firmware of the det3 to the latest version. Check that the wiring is correct (did you use any "pullup" connections on the ignition module signal wire?). Check that when you crank the engine the det3 still has power (red light on det 3). If you use a different switched power than the toyota ecu it can lose power when cranking (radio power for example.). Check the det 3 settings for ignition and analogue sensors are set correctly. If you use the wrong settings it won't run. When you crank the engine does the laptop programme show connected, ignition no sync, ignition synchronized?
Thanks Dan. I sorted it out I did not have the device drivers installed. After I did this I roughed in some figures in the ignition table and it started. The only issue I am trying to figure out is the rpm on my dash says 1000 rpm but on the det3 shows about 2000 rpm. The afr on the det3 is different from that of the Aem wideband gauge.
@@ryanauguste5850 The rpm is probably the wrong figure in the ignition configuration menu: Num signals per 720. An offest in the wide band reading is usually due to where the AEM output signal earth wire was grounded. If it was connected to the correct Toyota ECU earth with the det 3 and still reads off then contact ECUmaster. A guy told me that he had this problem and they sent him a new scale configuration file to use.
Yes, thats what I did. Use the in built 4 bar map sensor of the det 3 + to run the engine. The stock 4efe map sensor is left in place and does nothing. No need to buy the 4efte map sensor anymore! 😁
@ Noise Currently the power level doesn't really need any better control than the piggyback setup so I'll stick with this for the moment. If it was a forged build I'd probably skip the fuel implant and go straight to a different standalone ecu. The Fuel implant setup is helpful if the vehicle ecu is too modern for piggyback and all you need is better fuel control, but the starlet is old enough to be good on piggy so that's why I use it. Don't forget that fuel implant mode requires much more complex fuel tuning (transient, cold start, acceleration enrichment etc.) and the wiring also more complex.
My car is being tuned on the dyno, when I hit 100% WOT the AFRs go super rich (9/10) and any changes I make don’t work change the AFRs? Any idea please
@@dan91sgarage 4EFTE injectors, SArd FPR set at 40-45base Not sure but when I press the pedal down to like 90-100% it just riches out straight to 9ish - 10
@@rory3104 If the Sard fpr is a fake one (Sard "style") I would swap back to the stock toyota fpr and see if it helps. When I set my det3 as per this video I was removing lots of fuel at the low load end of the fuel map and had to add up to 70+ points in the fuel cells to get it rich enough in the boosted area. What WBo2 gauge do you have? Was the reading of 9 afr on the dyno WBO2 probe or your gauge? In the Det 3 menu - Analogue outputs configuration what has been selected for: Out min, out max, offset and step value?
It's all about what's needed for the build and at this level of power I don't feel the need for any more control than the piggyback mode gives. Fuel implant is also a lot more wiring and the tuning of the fuel is also more complex than most users can do themselves (cold start, cranking, afterstart, warmup, acceleration enrichment tables, main fuel table + sensor calibration etc etc.)
@@dimitrakarkali7503 Ok I've never worked on an Ibiza but if it is na+turbo conversion= The stock map sensor is probably 1 bar and can't read boost. And the injectors will most likely need to be swapped for bigger ones.
Heya, I'm planning on turboing my starlet the easiest way possible without a piggyback or standalone ECU, so all together I've got a ct9, 4efte oil filter housing, front mount intercooler kit, 4efte sump, oil return all that etc, 4efte injectors, 4efte map sensor, 4efte fuel rail, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, hks adjustable actuator, and gauge's of course, do you reckon this would do it and have you any advice, thanks
You won't need the 4efte fuel rail (makes no difference) and the hks adjustable actuator's minimum setting will be about 7.5psi so be careful. Avoid fake fpr's, they can have inconsistent performance and the last thing you need is a fuel leak! My advice is to get a det 3 piggyback. Trying to "tune" an NA+T engine with fpr, fcd or 2 bar map instead has disappointing results.
@@lostsheep1616 This video shows how to setup the inputs on a Det 3+ on a Toyota starlet EP91. The basic install is only 4 wires. 2 x splices for power and ground and 2 x intercepts for MAP and Ignition (IGT). There are 6 wire connections in total. I covered the basic install in the first 4 minutes of this video: th-cam.com/video/_z5hnVmlyuI/w-d-xo.html This video shows my current wiring setup including WBO2 input: th-cam.com/video/i86d2BTWgAY/w-d-xo.html
Hey, I love the video. It was really informative, but I didn’t agree with one thing. You said you can’t road tune ignition timing. The thing is is that modern ecu’s all have a safety feature built in where it will retard timing if it senses knock. This is done for if the motor receives bad gas or other similar scenarios. But I have seen people road tune by data logging info from the knock sensor and relying on the oem knock control system to keep it under wraps. Now you may not be able to look at that specific sensor on the piggyback, but you could definitely read it off of the ecu and adjust based off of both data logs.
The starlet I have doesn't have a knock sensor, so there is no chance to monitor knock without aftermarket knock sensing equipment, doing this on the road, I consider to be unsafe. Also (depending on power output) small amounts of knock can be damaging to the engine, lower power outputs generally suffer less damage, but don't forget we are talking about a NA+T build here with relatively high compression (not forged) on pump fuel (no E85 in UK). The main reason to tune on the dyno is not just to know where the knock threshold is, but to see how much torque is produced relative to timing in a safe, controlled, repeatable environment. Street tuning has its place (drivability, traction control strategies, boost by gear tweaks etc.) but not for timing imo, each to their own.
🇯🇲🇯🇲 very informative.. I actually paused my home build and waited for each episode to learn and implement on my build thanks alot
Thanks bro 🤝 Hope it goes well for you
Awesome mate, yesterday I was watching your videos on the det3
Thanks Emanuel, good luck with the rally beast! 👍
@@dan91sgarage it going to be okay, probably no time to fit the det3. Coz as I can see is alot of time consuming. It will be done when the championship end . Your videos helps alot. Keep up.
Awesome video dude! Good to see the car back on the road
@EP Wiring Thanks mate. Great to be driving it again, with boost this time!
Good day sir, I have the same stuttering problem for my 3zz fe( 8:15 ). I tried the 1.1V limit but it doesnt work how did you figure out what the limits are?
Thanks in advance
I just selected all the cells in the fuel table and pressed the throttle until it rev cut. Then I increased the number of points in the cells (+ button on keyboard) until it stopped cutting. Then read the voltage on the analogue out display or datalog. Input min voltage to analogue output configuration.
This certainly gave me some ideas, I've been trying to tune a Toyota 2az-fe with the DET3.
Thanks mate 👍
My 2azfe blew up twice lol, it has high compression pistons and cold air intake and bc bearing set. First time it blew was cuz it burned so much oil, second time bearings spun. Now i plan on getting the Det3 for my 201 Kia Soul so I can tune with bigger injectors and low compression pistons for turbocharging.
So ,man your explaining very good ,but i supposedly bumped upon a engine repair with some forged conrods
But because i live in east europe i have to wait some days for the parts to appear
... And everything i have now is to wait for the parts and some place to tune the car
Gotta watch again all the videos related to the tuning and connecting the det3
Thx for the work you've done
You're welcome friend, good luck with the build
Amazing job
Thank you! Cheers!
Love it
Hi Dan, hope everything is ok, no vids since some time now...hope you are well, cheers
Good day Dan. Thanks for your Awesome videos on setting up the ECUMaster Det 3 +. With limited tuning knowledge I was able to setup a base map and even get into tuning and also electronic boost control. I would like to ask a question. I am trying to setup the Launch control but there is limited information on how to get it done. Would you be able to guide me through it.
Now that I have the software downloaded and am playing with it-this question for you Dan:
So, my car has a 1 bar sensor (n/a). I've turbo'd it, and am installing the det3+. I've watched all of your det3 install vids (except wire-in because mine isn't a starlet and doesn't apply for specific cavites of the ecu). I will watch that as well when the time comes to actually wire mine in for the tips that are there.
Since I am using the det3+ with the built in 4 bar, and my vehicle has a map sensor that is only 1 bar, when choosing 'modify' and 'load' for fuel and ignition in 'setup tables', I'm suspecting they both need to have selected the 'det3 400kpa', correct?
I thought perhaps the stock 1bar sensor needed to be 'load' but it doesn't go past 14.7 atmospheric, so what's the point?
Lil help here for this texan please :)
Yes, you need to use analogue input 2 (built in 4 bar map sensor) as the modify and load signal for the fuel and ignition maps in the setup tables menu. As you quite rightly say the 1 bar map sensor will not read any boost. Don't forget to change the scales in the scales configuration menu and save them as the default project as well or it will display its default scales which are not related to the sensors you've chosen to hook into.
@@dan91sgarage thank you dan! Very much!
Great video Dan, i have a question for you..
I’m running my det3 on piggyback mode, i would like to install a switch to switch between 2 table settings. 1 with meth and timing advance and the other table with no meth and standard timing. How do you set this up on the det3 in the programming? And would you take a permanent 12v and the switch 12v from pin 2 to wire the switch allowing the maps to switch over.
Hope you can help me. Thank you🤞
@adamfoster2579 The map switch wiring is: wire connected from pin 2 of det3 to a toggle switch, wire from other side of toggle switch to ground (earth). The switch changes between 2 independant table sets (fuel, 2 x pwm and ignition tables).
One set of tables will have standard timing and the other will have advanced timing. Triggering the meth to only work when the advanced timing map set has been chosen can be done a few ways. Is the car n/a or forced induction? Which water meth are you using snow, AEM, devils own?
@@dan91sgarage thank you, supercharged corolla t sport compressor running a aem wmi kit. I have the water meth on a kill switch not linked to the det. The progressive controller is linked to the injector duty signal.
What im planning on, is when I run out of wmi liquid on a drive I can switch tables to standard timing with a little more fuel added and wmi off.
So when the pin sees an Earth connection it switches the map?
How do I go about programming the tables to switch on the det3?
Thank you so much for getting back to me👍
@@adamfoster2579 Yes, when the wire from pin 2 sees earth it switches maps. At the bottom of the det 3 computer programme it says current map set=0 and current map set=1 when switched. When you save the project and make maps save to det 3 it only saves the current map set you are working on so be aware of that.
As far as programming goes there isn't really any setup menu's to configure to allow map switching, it's always there waiting for the signal on pin 2.
Tuning the fuel required for meth/no meth maps is relatively easy with a wideband and datalogging in the det3 (shown in video). The ignition is the dangerous part and in my opinion should only be mapped on the safe environment of a dyno to know when you are reaching knock limit on meth.
If it were my car I would probably trigger the meth from the manifold pressure as this is how most forced induction setups are triggered. Some water meth controllers also have a warning output when they run out of liquid, it may be possible to use this signal to power a relay that has the pin2 - earth connection on the switched side to automatically switch maps for safety. Might not be possible this way, but it was fun to think about! 👍. Toggle switch is way easier though.
No worries, don't forget to like and subscribe!
@@dan91sgaragethank you,
Ill go with the toggle switch option aha. I am using a aem AFR gauge to map fuel so that’s all good. Been messing around with the det3 for over a year now and been running the WMI for 4 or so months. It’s going well. When the fluid gets low on the level sensor I have it triggering a 12v piezo sounder in the dash so I know the fluids low then not thrashing it after that.
So when I get this maps switch installed when I run out of fluid I’ll be able to kill the WMI with my killswitch then switch to the normal ignition tables and a mapped fuel table putting in more fuel to allow for what the meth was doing. I’m running 66% water and 33% meth. It’s mainly for cooling.
I’m using 220cc injectors I think I can’t remember now, 1 before supercharger and 1 after. There is no intercooler on my setup and wmi was the easier option that putting a intercooler in and changing all pipework.
The cars a Toyota Corolla compressor.
Ill get this switch done in the next week or few days. Ill let you know if I succeed. I should do😄
Hello Dan, thanks for your videos, it helps me a lot with the build :) I want to ask about the injectors, mine has a resistance of 14.5 ohm and the new one I put in is 12 ohm. Do I need to add 2.5 ohm resistors to the wiring to compensate for the new injectors?
EFi fuel injectors fall into 2 categories: Low impedance (1.5 - 4 ohm) and High impedance (8-16ohm). So, as the injectors are both in the High impedance category it's fine without the resistor.
Thank you for answer :) @@dan91sgarage
Great videos! does the det3 need a map to start the vehicle straight after wiring the unit
It depends on the other modifications the vehicle has. If it's stock apart from the piggyback det 3, the car will start, run and drive as normal without any det 3 fuel / ignition mapping. If it has larger fuel injectors and a turbo conversion, the car will start and run (poorly due to the larger fuel injectors) and can be loaded to take to a tuner but shouldn't be driven normally without some fuel / ignition mapping. A standalone ecu or the det 3 in fuel implant mode controls the fuel injection completely and the car won't start or run without "base maps". On a piggyback setup you can think of the toyota ECU as the "base maps" and use the det 3 to tweak them. Hope this helps.👍
Dan, greetings sir! If I can trouble you again. The stock injectors on my car is 195cc/min. For years now, the 240cc/min injectors I swapped over with no engine management starts and runs fine, but has rich codes of course. I'm going to run close to 350hp with an increase in boost. I will be installing 550cc/min injectors for that with the DET3. To be clear, once I wire in the DET3 (my saturn I've bothered you with before), is it a matter of going into my tabels and using negative numbers to remove that 180% increase in fuel over the stock. My goal then would to have crisp, correct start up trims but have the fuel flow everywhere else for that 350hp.
If your fitting the det 3+ at the same time as the 550cc injectors the fuel table will be empty so you'll have to tune it from scratch. The numbers in the table aren't a percentage they are step * a voltage that you add or subtract from the original map sensor signal voltage. I don't think you can "shortcut" it. Doesn't take a huge amount of time really.
@@dan91sgarage thank you for the quick reply dan! Yes sir I know its a voltage calculation but was figuring with that large of a change from stock (% size increase) coukd the det3 pulldown the pulsewidth low enough to make for a clean cold start and idle. Sounds like it can. I very much appreciate having your experience available. I am really looking forward to your next project!
@@kurtbennett1164 When using a det 3 (or any other intercepter style ecu) in piggyback mode it doesn't control the injectors (pusle width) directly. It "adjusts" the vehicle load signal (MAP, MAF,) to trick the vehicle ecu into lowering / raising the fuel injector delivery. If the injectors are too big for the intended power (at a safe duty cycle) you will have to adjust down a lot. Some vehicle ecu's have safety "boost" cuts, so adding or subtracting too much voltage may cause "limp" mode (my Starlet had a low voltage cut at less than 1v and a high voltage cut over 4.6v!) All I can say is you will learn a lot when you get the kit installed on this particular vehicle.
@@dan91sgarage you are awesome! That helps tremendously!
Hey mate you should do a video on the launch control option
Hey dan thanks for the awsome vid i have the det3+ hooked up to my 2009 kia rio i have hooked up the map sensor and my afr gauge but i can only see analog input 1 and it wont show me the rest is there any tips?
Which analogue input on the det3+ did you connect the AFR signal to?
Hey Dan, for the corrections (AFR, Bar) for the Fuel table the 100% values are essentially not modifying the main table right? Do you know if you put in let's say 110% and were modifying the max 127 value in the table, would hat take effect? Basically, can you go past the max 127 value using the corrections?
The 2D correction1 and correction2 value percentage is added to the Analogue out value from the Main fuel table cell.
"The output value of the modified analog signal for fuel table is calculated on the following basis:
Vout = (TableValue * Vstep + Vin + analogOutOffset) * correction1 * correction2"
So yes, you can use the 2D corrections to increase the Analogue out voltage past the value the 127 steps creates but this is not their intended purpose. They are to influence the Fuelling with a different sensor than the "Modify" sensor used for the main Table. If you've run out of steps and need more fuel, but don't need to use a different sensor, you can try increasing the Step voltage value to 0.0195v this gives higher voltage per step, or larger injectors / higher fuel pressure.
Total output can never be more then boost cut or 5V
@@dan91sgarage Thanks dude. Thinking about it more, I have only positive values in my fuel table so I think I'll use the offset and set minus values in the bottom left.
You can also add or subtract a fixed amount of voltage (fuel) to the Analogue out signal using the Analogue out Offset, this is also independent of the Fuel table 127 steps. And doesn't use a sensor like 2D corrections table.
"Analog Out Offset - constant offset added to analogue output voltage."
On my setup I added +1.25v in the analogue out offset, because the 4bar map voltage is quite low per bar and I was adding shedloads of steps for fuel on boost and removing very little N/A in the main fuel table.
since youve used this piggyback ECU would you recomend it for a car that is near tripling the HP with a turbo, or would you recomend just getting a full stand alone for more control over the engine.
@dillonlee3229 . In that particular case I would go with full standalone. Nothing wrong with the det 3 for certain applications, however I would want better control. If you switch to a standalone you can also run full sequential fuel injection (some factory cars are batch fired) and also choose to upgrade to c.o.p. and direct fire etc. with a new loom / cam trigger if you want. I like the look of Maxx mini (4 pot) or ecumaster classic (6 pot). Other ecu's are available ;-)
@@dan91sgarage thank you yeah i was hoping i could get away with a piggy back to save on the cost, but the standalon will allow better control and more options like wideband sensols.
@dillonlee3229 Always check with the person tuning it what ecu they prefers as some Tuners don't like certain ecu's.
Hi Dan. Thanks for these videos, they're great. I am interested in using one of these in a modified Endura engine Ford KA. The OEM ECU has an electronic rev limit of just over 5000rpm. Is there a way this unit could overcome / trick the ECU to ignore/overwrite this rev limit do you know?
If the rev limit is done as a fuel cut using the injectors, you could install the det 3 in fuel implant mode as the det3 will then have full control of the injectors. If it is done through the ignition side of things then you would have to go standalone ecu and replace the oem ecu completely.
@@dan91sgarage Hi Dan. Appreciate the reply. I might look into seeing if a tuner/remapper could remove the rev limit first in that case.
Dou you have pre saved ECU SETTINGS to slightly increase performance without inserting a turbo???? In Toyota starlet??
I only have turbo maps friend.👍
Good day Dan I have been following your channel for some time now. I have a starlet Glanza 4EFTE with the Auto ECU which has since been converted to a manual. I installed the ECUMASTER det3 as you have done but the car won't start. I need some help getting it started.
Was the car manual swapped at the same time as det3 install? Did the car run before det3 install?
The manual swap was done a long time ago. The vehicle run before I installed the piggyback
@@ryanauguste5850 It's very difficult to remote diagnose the problem so I'll just rattle off what I can think of. Obviously the wiring for the 4efte ecu is going to be different to the 4efe in my car so I'll assume you've used the correct wires from a 4efte pinout to connect your det3 to. Download the det3 laptop drivers from ecumaster.
Update the firmware of the det3 to the latest version. Check that the wiring is correct (did you use any "pullup" connections on the ignition module signal wire?). Check that when you crank the engine the det3 still has power (red light on det 3). If you use a different switched power than the toyota ecu it can lose power when cranking (radio power for example.). Check the det 3 settings for ignition and analogue sensors are set correctly. If you use the wrong settings it won't run. When you crank the engine does the laptop programme show connected, ignition no sync, ignition synchronized?
Thanks Dan. I sorted it out I did not have the device drivers installed. After I did this I roughed in some figures in the ignition table and it started. The only issue I am trying to figure out is the rpm on my dash says 1000 rpm but on the det3 shows about 2000 rpm. The afr on the det3 is different from that of the Aem wideband gauge.
@@ryanauguste5850 The rpm is probably the wrong figure in the ignition configuration menu: Num signals per 720. An offest in the wide band reading is usually due to where the AEM output signal earth wire was grounded. If it was connected to the correct Toyota ECU earth with the det 3 and still reads off then contact ECUmaster. A guy told me that he had this problem and they sent him a new scale configuration file to use.
I have the same ecu master...how do i install launch contol with a switch???😢
So, can i just leave the stock 4efe map sensor in place and use the det3 map sensor instead of buying a 4efte one ?
Yes, thats what I did. Use the in built 4 bar map sensor of the det 3 + to run the engine. The stock 4efe map sensor is left in place and does nothing. No need to buy the 4efte map sensor anymore! 😁
@@dan91sgarage awesome, thank you
Any plans to move to fuel implementation?
@ Noise Currently the power level doesn't really need any better control than the piggyback setup so I'll stick with this for the moment. If it was a forged build I'd probably skip the fuel implant and go straight to a different standalone ecu. The Fuel implant setup is helpful if the vehicle ecu is too modern for piggyback and all you need is better fuel control, but the starlet is old enough to be good on piggy so that's why I use it. Don't forget that fuel implant mode requires much more complex fuel tuning (transient, cold start, acceleration enrichment etc.) and the wiring also more complex.
can i use this set up for a automatic turbo??
My car is being tuned on the dyno, when I hit 100% WOT the AFRs go super rich (9/10) and any changes I make don’t work change the AFRs?
Any idea please
What car do you have and how is the det3 wired to it? MAF or MAP, TPS etc? N/A or Turbo?
@@dan91sgarage ep91 4efe with a ct9 turbo wired the same as how you did I believe. DET3+
@@rory3104 what size injectors do you have? is the FPR stock? Have you reached the maximum of -128 in the det3 fuel cells when its running rich?
@@dan91sgarage 4EFTE injectors, SArd FPR set at 40-45base
Not sure but when I press the pedal down to like 90-100% it just riches out straight to 9ish - 10
@@rory3104 If the Sard fpr is a fake one (Sard "style") I would swap back to the stock toyota fpr and see if it helps. When I set my det3 as per this video I was removing lots of fuel at the low load end of the fuel map and had to add up to 70+ points in the fuel cells to get it rich enough in the boosted area. What WBo2 gauge do you have? Was the reading of 9 afr on the dyno WBO2 probe or your gauge? In the Det 3 menu - Analogue outputs configuration what has been selected for: Out min, out max, offset and step value?
Hi sir i am thinking of doing the same build as yours but i am not familiar with ecu tuning .... If i pay u for the map can u send it to me ?
run it as fuel implant with build in map sensor.... its better for this aplication
It's all about what's needed for the build and at this level of power I don't feel the need for any more control than the piggyback mode gives. Fuel implant is also a lot more wiring and the tuning of the fuel is also more complex than most users can do themselves (cold start, cranking, afterstart, warmup, acceleration enrichment tables, main fuel table + sensor calibration etc etc.)
Hello my friend my car get on boost and it make fuel cut i change the numbers of cells and nothing what i do wrong
What car do you have? What map sensor do you have? What injectors are you using?
@@dan91sgarage i have a seat ibiza 1998 1.4 16v with stock injectors and stock map sensor.
@@dimitrakarkali7503 Ok I've never worked on an Ibiza but if it is na+turbo conversion= The stock map sensor is probably 1 bar and can't read boost. And the injectors will most likely need to be swapped for bigger ones.
Heya, I'm planning on turboing my starlet the easiest way possible without a piggyback or standalone ECU, so all together I've got a ct9, 4efte oil filter housing, front mount intercooler kit, 4efte sump, oil return all that etc, 4efte injectors, 4efte map sensor, 4efte fuel rail, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, hks adjustable actuator, and gauge's of course, do you reckon this would do it and have you any advice, thanks
You won't need the 4efte fuel rail (makes no difference) and the hks adjustable actuator's minimum setting will be about 7.5psi so be careful. Avoid fake fpr's, they can have inconsistent performance and the last thing you need is a fuel leak! My advice is to get a det 3 piggyback. Trying to "tune" an NA+T engine with fpr, fcd or 2 bar map instead has disappointing results.
Is it hard set up the det3 ECU myself, I've good experience wiring and all and with computers, is it hard set up all the inputs?
@@lostsheep1616 This video shows how to setup the inputs on a Det 3+ on a Toyota starlet EP91. The basic install is only 4 wires. 2 x splices for power and ground and 2 x intercepts for MAP and Ignition (IGT). There are 6 wire connections in total.
I covered the basic install in the first 4 minutes of this video: th-cam.com/video/_z5hnVmlyuI/w-d-xo.html
This video shows my current wiring setup including WBO2 input: th-cam.com/video/i86d2BTWgAY/w-d-xo.html
Is there any way I can contact you privately, thanks
Yes, I am on instagram: dan91sgarage
Hey, I love the video. It was really informative, but I didn’t agree with one thing. You said you can’t road tune ignition timing. The thing is is that modern ecu’s all have a safety feature built in where it will retard timing if it senses knock. This is done for if the motor receives bad gas or other similar scenarios. But I have seen people road tune by data logging info from the knock sensor and relying on the oem knock control system to keep it under wraps. Now you may not be able to look at that specific sensor on the piggyback, but you could definitely read it off of the ecu and adjust based off of both data logs.
The starlet I have doesn't have a knock sensor, so there is no chance to monitor knock without aftermarket knock sensing equipment, doing this on the road, I consider to be unsafe. Also (depending on power output) small amounts of knock can be damaging to the engine, lower power outputs generally suffer less damage, but don't forget we are talking about a NA+T build here with relatively high compression (not forged) on pump fuel (no E85 in UK). The main reason to tune on the dyno is not just to know where the knock threshold is, but to see how much torque is produced relative to timing in a safe, controlled, repeatable environment. Street tuning has its place (drivability, traction control strategies, boost by gear tweaks etc.) but not for timing imo, each to their own.