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I did get this tool because I am indeed on a budget a few weeks ago. The worst part I think is the handle. I would recommend re-shaping or making a new handle for it.

Great to watch and learn very good videos . Smudge.

What kind of setting pliers do I need for an old 42 inch bow saw blade? Thanks, great video.

Picky about nonsense

"And preparing a chisel takes seconds" - wait till you have to flatten the back of that Narax. The polishing slightly rounds the sides of it and you need that to be flat. Approx. 20 mins to flat and that's only if the chisel body is flat in the center. The Wood River sets up a bit faster. The socket handle on the Wood River though does come loose more than I'd like. Haven't had a blade drop to the concrete but always feel like I need to guard against it. The use of the two chisels is very comparable. ( I have a couple of ea. and am happy with their performance overall)

The pricing in the U.S. for Clifton vs Lie Nielsen is reversed. You’ll pay more for the Clifton in the US than the LN.

Excellent thanks for sharing your expertise learned a lot.

Most people have the problem of 1. simply not having a sharp iron 2. having an extremely poor set up. The thicker iron act as a crutch to force the blade through a poor cut. A perfectly tuned and sharpened blade should be easy to start and finish. The high pitched resonance should be present when you push the blade through using a reasonable cut depth. Again, the vast majority of the issue is not having a truly sharp blade. Most people think they can sharpen, but they cannot.

O1...hardend it OIL. W1...hardend in Water.

Very helpful and straight forward video. So many TH-camrs make sharpening complicated and must buy the newest trend. I was one that fell for that until I released exactly what you said “raise a burr”. Thank you for sharing.

Very helpful project and well demonstrated.

I'm just beginning, and the tip to really bring that cap iron close AND keep the mouth more open was absolutely game changing. I also appreciate the down to earth video and your humble character. Subscribed!

I just found your channel and have watched a couple of videos. Glad to see that you will be posting more content. Thank you for sharing. New subscriber

Thank you for the review. Very helpful.

Thank you for sharing. The method that you demonstrated was very helpful to me. I am currently flattening a plank for my new workbench. I used 2x10 premium grade but here that still means knots and wavey grain. I used my 4 1/2 with a very fine set and took my time. Sure enough, the tear out is gone. Thank you again and glad I found your channel. New subscriber.

Thanks mate!

Missed this when it first appeared, but agree with others on how good it is to see your content again.

They look almost identical to a six piece set I bought recently at Harbor Fright, a discount tool dealer here in the U.S for around ten dollars. They where recommended by a creditable woodworker and at that price why not try them out just to find out. They where easy to prepare and sharpen . I used them extensively lately on a potting bench build and was pleasantly surprised at how well they worked. That being said I would not chop dovetails with them unless that was all I had. I also have a thing for the Norton fine India stone and continually recommend them for beginners starting out. Like you say the price of starting out is costly and this is one area that some savings can be realized. I also use a polishing compound, in the U.S., it is called called Autosol but it is made in Germany, great stuff, way better than leather.

SHARPENING NOT STRAIGHT😮

New to this hand tool woodworking, so just so I am sure camber is a convex on the top of the cutting iron, correct? And sir, that is beautiful, absolutely beautiful.

I've got a T5 Technical Jack (only in the last 10 years). I agree mostly to a point. You don't need one. But they are useful, again to a point. The advantage of having one is that it's always ready to go. By that I mean, it's sharpened straight across the blade, whereas a no5 (in my opinion) should have a camber. That for me makes a huge difference when I'm making wooden camera parts, box parts etc. But for most other general woodworking, it's not neccesary. Probably better to have another no5 set up as a shooting plane, with straight sharpened blade, and sitting next too, or on the shooting board.

Is it a shoe size rule?

Great video. I'm with you on the Original irons, they are mostly very well suited to the plane. I put a Ray Iles iron in a Custom Preston number 4 (number 14 and I only found a couple of parts) and didn't have to do anything to get it working beautifully. There's only one other iron that I really get great results from, fits well and sharpens easily and that's new old stock japanese laminated irons, made to fit Stanley planes. They are brilliant on hardwood, knots, awkward grain. It just shears through it. BTW. Your video is a bit of research 'recommended buy TH-cam' for my next video. A new trial from Creators Studio. Anyhow, I've subscribed too. Have a wonderful day. Jamie

Hi buddy not sure if your still interested but Axminster as a 35% off there Axminster professional 1,065mm sash clamps which normally sales for £31.98 down to £19.98 if your interested plus comes with there life time warranty which honestly is good cause had problems with there other clamp which i used for almost 2yrs & was replaced without any issues..

I want to purchase

Why all that added work ? Wouldn't it be easier to cut the groove with a router bit and just stopped short the dovetail ? That just looked painfully easy to mess up....

That’s nice work. I also like the 5 1/2 for the same reasons you mentioned.

I tried a lot over the years, I bought a lot of stuff other people recommended. That was often the wrong approach. I´ve learned to go from simple to complex and I recommend that. So I go to the simplest solution that´s proven to work over time. As a beginner you don´t need a set of 5 or six different sharpening stones, you don´t need honing guides and you don´t have to go up to 12.000 or whatever grit. The Norton India is actually a nice starting point, since it has a coarse side for rough work and a side for general sharpening. It also gives nice feedback, so you feel what you´re doing. If you can´t get a sharp edge off that stone, the problem is technique and there´s no point in going to a finer grit or buying other stuff. It´s not only woodworkers, for many people the first thing they think of when encountering a problem is to throw money at it, which rarely works. Another problem is people blindly following advice. For quite some time I flattend my water stones after each use because multiple people on youtube recommended it. It´s so wasteful. Most of the sharpening stone gets ground away instead of being udes to sharpening. Then I allowed myself to learn for myself, stopped flattening, kept sharpening and just waited for when it affects the result. I learned that stones have to be halfway flat.

The internet DOES need sharpening videos! Thanks!

Just making one myself. Yours look great.

Did you have another channel years ago. I think all that content was removed. Perhaps you were making a workbench?

Trying to rack my brain as to whether I've seen you before years earlier on YT and for personal reasons you had to stop making videos. The person I'm thinking of was building a nice workbench and was also in a family woodworking business. Either way I have subscribes (again?).

My tuppence worth is to check (and adjust as necessary) the cap iron front edge, frog mating surface and the lever cap front edge is dead flat. If they are not, then the blade and hence the cutting edge cutting edge will deform into the shape of the all combined. I have a Record jointer plane which is really nice but the lever cap front clamping edge was concave so really only clamping against the cap iron on the outer edges. This was pushing the edges of the blade down and therefore cutting more on the outside edges. 2 minutes to dress the lever cap fixed the problem. Also I have found that the cheaper Stanley planes with plastic knobs are useless because the adjustment lever pushes into the plastic and deforms it to the extent that the blade is not stable and therefore moves in use if you hit a bit of a snag in the wood or whatever. They don't usually clamp the frog to the plane body very well either in the cheaper versions and I don't think these can be easily made to work well or well enough for me that is.

I go one step further and run a marking knife along the gauge lines.

Thanks for the informative lesson.

This looks like a solid plane. Looks very similar to my record 4 1/2.

"Don't start disappearing up your own arse." Words to live by!

I got seriously lucky about a year ago at a car boot with a 14" x 2 1/2 to 3" tapered Charnley forest stone for the princely sum of 50p. The seller said that someone had bought the case but didn't want the 'dirty old stone' in it, so knocked it out and left it behind ! ....... wish I could get that lucky that every week, but a shame I didn't get there half an hour earlier and get the box too ;>) ..... having said that, I am normally there before 5am most Sundays. Yesterday I got a Hindostan [ Indiana, US. natural siltstone ] 8 1/2 x 2 1/4" along with full set of cutters for a combination plane .... all for a couple of quid. That stone is very gummed up with crusty old oil and iron swarf and needs a serious de-greasing before flattening- any suggestions as to the best way to deep clean the black 'gunk' ??

It is a shoe size gauge. Had them used on me in the I960's as a child.

wooden caliber?

Back in my days as a shoe man for Kinney Shoes we called a similar instrument a "Ritz Stick" they were used to take a fairly accurate reading of shoe size in length and in width at the ball of the foot.

It is to measure the foot length. I also have one of these, inherited from my grandfather. He was a master shoemaker. It works just as accurately as a more modern thing made from plastic.

Stone Curving Caliber

That looks to be a marking gauge for joinery

Poll Parrot, Poll Parrot are the shoes you ought to buy, they make your feet run faster, as fast as I can fly! Foot ruler for sizing shoes. I'm 70 and had them used on my feet. Who remembers Buster Brown shoes and Red Goose shoes had the Egg as a gift for buying their shoe?

Amazingly rich example of english culture that you can pose a question like this and get so many answers for such an interesting looking ruler.

Actually a good idea to have a folding caliper. Yeah there will always be some inherent inaccuracy regardless of how it folds but I occasionally could use a caliper longer than 6" but those get really expensive really quickly, and storing them would be a hassle for some twice a year measurement. Although I suppose nowadays this could be easily achieved with a chinesium laser.

Perhaps it is used to measure the spacing in floor joists or wall studs. Pace the 'clamp' over the previous joist/stud, then slide the next one up to the short drop edge on the other end.

Would the extra be an allowance for the maker not the wearer?

Thank you, I needed that advice refreshed. I'm still a beginner but still going to make one. Everything gives xp. Cheers m8