I like the Ashley isles, I bought four at a woodwork show about 10 years ago. They were classed as seconds due to having a slight color miss match on the handles. great buy.
Solid advice as ever. We do not have many \ rather any opportunity to buy previously owned tools here, except from e-bay from central Europe, so my route was: 1. Very cheap chisels set from a big box store, under 10 euro - decent wooden handles, very soft steel, the upside being I now sharpen quickly and free hand. Two years back I upgraded to the Narex Profi line, their cheapest with a set coming in at about 50 euro: very good steel, but I don't like the handels, rather on the chunky side. I now use the old set with a 20 degrees primary bevel for pairing and very soft wood. I recently bought a 4 mm Narex chisel for morticing for a special project, and changed the way I feel about morticing. I am now thinking of chopping of the ferrule on the Narex set and reshape the handles, because I will definitely stop morticing with the beveled edge chisels, and get one or two more morticing chisels, they are around 12 euro a piece - so much more easier to control and steer. Thank you for the video, and happy holidays!
Hi! Thanks for detailed feedback on your experiences. We are lucky here with the vast amounts of excellent vintage tools for virtually nothing. As you rightly point out, soft steel gets you good at sharpening very quickly!
Agree with buying the old ones off eBay as being the best bet. Another option is the Axminster Rider, the steel is good, holding its edge for a good while. Only thing I am not so keen on is the handles, but they can be shaped a little if need be.
I do have ferules like those, that uses the indent to make sure it doesn't slip off. Every single one of those that I have, they develops a crack off the indent. Maybe not an issue. Saw one lathe tool where the turner used the nylon colored cord, which he wrapped around the handle and used super glue on top of the string. It would probably work.
Agreed, unless one pounds the handle the wood is never going to mushroom enough to lock the ferule in place. For work at the bench I don't find a ferule necessary. However, at least these ferules are set down to make them comfortable.
I went to the AAW (woodturners) Symposium in Phoenix from damp western Oregon some years back. The ferules on most of my gouges still have not swelled back up to snug the ferule onto the gouge handle. Maybe I should make enough overlap of wood so I can round it down over...
Well, I am Irish from all 4 grandparents. I feel right at home here. Wet winters and and dry summers. I do love the rain. Being close to the ocean, it doesn't often get below freezing here, but it can. The year before I moved here, we had 3 feet of snow in about 36 hours. A bit unusual that....
i have a four piece set of Grebstk chisels cost $20 cdn they are a good rough work chisels easy to sharpen. i also have a full set of narex chisels that i use for more accurate work
I've gotten all of my chisels here and there. Those nice store bought sets are too rich for my blood. Plus I don't like to commit. I never know how much I'm going to like something before I really have and use it. Chisels are one of those things that I have to sharpen and use before I make a determination with them. Got to live with it some. So I'm better off with whatever I can find.
Hi Vince. I like it as a mortice size. 1/4" can be a bit weedy and most of my M&T frames are more than 3/4 thick. What's your list for a limited first purchase? Cheers!
3/8" can be a nice size for paring. It has a good flat to balance on and register off and enough width for some rigidity too. I can't say that about 1/4" What I can say about 1/4" is it's more narrow than 3/8" so it's going to get in places the 3/8" won't. Though 3/8" can be thinner thickness wise.
@@faceedgewoodworking I agree that 3/8” is a good size for a mortise. My starter set would be 1/4”, 1/2”, and 1”. Then 1/8” if one wants to try out skinny pin dovetails or needs to get into very tight places.
I like the Ashley isles, I bought four at a woodwork show about 10 years ago. They were classed as seconds due to having a slight color miss match on the handles. great buy.
Nice! Catching cosmetic seconds is a perfect way to get excellent tools.
Solid advice as ever. We do not have many \ rather any opportunity to buy previously owned tools here, except from e-bay from central Europe, so my route was: 1. Very cheap chisels set from a big box store, under 10 euro - decent wooden handles, very soft steel, the upside being I now sharpen quickly and free hand. Two years back I upgraded to the Narex Profi line, their cheapest with a set coming in at about 50 euro: very good steel, but I don't like the handels, rather on the chunky side. I now use the old set with a 20 degrees primary bevel for pairing and very soft wood. I recently bought a 4 mm Narex chisel for morticing for a special project, and changed the way I feel about morticing. I am now thinking of chopping of the ferrule on the Narex set and reshape the handles, because I will definitely stop morticing with the beveled edge chisels, and get one or two more morticing chisels, they are around 12 euro a piece - so much more easier to control and steer. Thank you for the video, and happy holidays!
Hi! Thanks for detailed feedback on your experiences. We are lucky here with the vast amounts of excellent vintage tools for virtually nothing. As you rightly point out, soft steel gets you good at sharpening very quickly!
Agree with buying the old ones off eBay as being the best bet. Another option is the Axminster Rider, the steel is good, holding its edge for a good while. Only thing I am not so keen on is the handles, but they can be shaped a little if need be.
Hi Gary. Yes, car boot sales, eBay etc are always great places to pick up trade quality tools for peanuts!
I do have ferules like those, that uses the indent to make sure it doesn't slip off. Every single one of those that I have, they develops a crack off the indent. Maybe not an issue. Saw one lathe tool where the turner used the nylon colored cord, which he wrapped around the handle and used super glue on top of the string. It would probably work.
Agreed, unless one pounds the handle the wood is never going to mushroom enough to lock the ferule in place. For work at the bench I don't find a ferule necessary. However, at least these ferules are set down to make them comfortable.
I went to the AAW (woodturners) Symposium in Phoenix from damp western Oregon some years back. The ferules on most of my gouges still have not swelled back up to snug the ferule onto the gouge handle. Maybe I should make enough overlap of wood so I can round it down over...
@@robohippy The Pacific Northwest! I always think that seems like a nice area. Is it nice there or do I have a distorted view thanks to TV?
Well, I am Irish from all 4 grandparents. I feel right at home here. Wet winters and and dry summers. I do love the rain. Being close to the ocean, it doesn't often get below freezing here, but it can. The year before I moved here, we had 3 feet of snow in about 36 hours. A bit unusual that....
Saw a review on Amazon that showed the edge bent over from working in hardwood. Maybe they have some QC issues with their hardening process.
Could be. The reality is even if they had great QC you can have better for hardly any more spend. Especially as I don't need all the sizes in a set.
i have a four piece set of Grebstk chisels cost $20 cdn they are a good rough work chisels easy to sharpen. i also have a full set of narex chisels that i use for more accurate work
Thanks Brian. I'm not familiar with that brand but 20 is very affordable. The Narex aren't perfect but I think they're excellent for the asking price.
@@faceedgewoodworking they look the same as the EZarc
@@bmcdermid100 gotcha, pretty much white label goods from China.
I've gotten all of my chisels here and there. Those nice store bought sets are too rich for my blood. Plus I don't like to commit. I never know how much I'm going to like something before I really have and use it. Chisels are one of those things that I have to sharpen and use before I make a determination with them. Got to live with it some. So I'm better off with whatever I can find.
A harlequin set has much to offer. I like that approach too, though availability of good second hand/vintage can be tricky for some people.
I concur! 🙂
Cheers!
Are there any other chisels you could recommend cheers
Hi Steve, I'll see what I can do on my next vlog. If I forget, don't be afraid to remind me.
Hi Steve, I’ve just left a recommendation in the comments
Where would you use a 3/8” chisel? Just curious.
Hi Vince. I like it as a mortice size. 1/4" can be a bit weedy and most of my M&T frames are more than 3/4 thick. What's your list for a limited first purchase? Cheers!
3/8" can be a nice size for paring. It has a good flat to balance on and register off and enough width for some rigidity too. I can't say that about 1/4" What I can say about 1/4" is it's more narrow than 3/8" so it's going to get in places the 3/8" won't. Though 3/8" can be thinner thickness wise.
@@faceedgewoodworking I agree that 3/8” is a good size for a mortise. My starter set would be 1/4”, 1/2”, and 1”. Then 1/8” if one wants to try out skinny pin dovetails or needs to get into very tight places.
@@vinceLi3096 nice selection. An 1/8th is great for tight spots 👌
It's pronounced easy arc
Thanks, easy arc it is!